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Pretty sure there's NO heel counter.

I would be less concerned about the chrome than the other factors if really worried about the "fashion" aspect.

I don't know if those are plastic-coated. The Rugged Resil ones I got aren't smooth and shiny, but they don't list these as Chromexel like the Prez I got. My guess is they will look fine and wrinkle a bit until they turn t' dust all a suddy, but I could be wrong because they has TOO MANY learhthys for me t' keep track now.

Pretty sure these are the Whiskey but I think the Brandy look nicer but have the other outsole, blah, blah...

I think I have the Tobacco but wanted the Jasper? Black Coffee was the closest in the Prez model and they only offer the Olive in the same rough finish as Tobacco, etc.

Dura looks VERY narrow, which I thought RW ran narrow already in their heritage models. RW looks like nicer leather, but if you work in muck or concrete, might be less worth the extra 100 bux.

Could always SWAP the insoles on days 3 & 4 and see if they are interchangeable, etc. I discovered this by accident a few years ago and helped w' some but didn't work for all.

the Dura gimmick is they give the FREE shipping and FREE resole that are just baked into the cost of the boot but would likely better off taking t' local cobbler for resole, anyway. They should include an EXTRA insole that I could use for something else since they might ne'er cash in the Free this and that, but this model might be better than the one I was looking at but still might be at least $50 overpriced, etc.

I almost bought the White's Fulton on sale and then changed my mind because I just can't seem t' get straight answers enough about their sizing t' bother right now. Maybe next year [or the end this one].

Red Wings are usually worth every penny, I’m curious to see if the Duradero’s can hang with them.

I hope so, but the Fargos are probably the underdogs in this one. The 2414’s are legends in trades.

Just looked up the Red Wing 606, I imagine it’s the 6-inch version of the 2412? The 2412 is the exact same boot as the 2414 in this video, but insulated. Good to know you’ve had great luck with the 606’s! I can’t wait to start working in both the Fargos and the 2414’s. How’s that super sole in the cold/snow?

I’ll tell you what, I almost always go with the 8 inch boot nowadays for work. I think they sit better on my ankle. Little more support. The Rutlands are the only work style I’m wearing lately that’s 6 inch.

@doublebase6509 well I ordered the rutlands this morning and now I decided I want a taller pair for work and the rutlands will be my non work boot. The pair I wear when I'm not working. I worked some overtime just so I could get a pair but come to find out I can afford to get both. I wanted something lined for the winter or even just waterproof lined but my feet get hot as it is so I think I'll be just fine. Can't wait to try them! Oh and the taller boot is the lander. Thanks for chatting with me

@@ksajak good luck, let me know how it goes. I had to look up what the Lander was, didn’t realize they made them. Those look nice! That must be the 8-inch version of the Rutland? I wore my Fargos today for a few hours at work to break them in. Pretty happy with the comfort level so far, next week I’ll be ramping it up and rotating the Red Wings in with them.

Well you better tell my engine and the millions of others using it without issue.🤣🤣

On the Iron Rangers I’m really careful with conditioning them, I’ll only use Bicks 4 or Red Wing Leather Cream, because both will not darken leather much. Anything else I have in the house will darken it. For my actual work boots that I don’t mind darkening I’ll use Obenaufs, or mink oil, or a combination formula of 4 parts neats foot oil and one part bees wax. I’ll melt an ounce of bees wax into four ounces of neats foot oil, pour it into a container and it turns into a paste. I’ll use Sno-Seal if I need serious waterproofing, it’s cheap and easy to apply. I’d like to try Hubards someday too.

@ thanks for the response.

Nine years old?? I didn’t realize the company has been around that long, interesting. They must be doing something right or they’d be gone. I feel the same, these aren’t the best boots but for $199? Right now that seems fair enough.

@@doublebase6509 They are about 11 years old as a company. The quality control and fit have improved since then. The price has not changed in all that time. That alone is impressive.

I’d suggest you try their sizing guide on their website, I can’t remember exactly, but it asks you a few questions and that it spits out a size. Before you do that though…go to a shoe store and measure your brannock, if you’re like me you’re going to be surprised what your actual size is because your feet size changes with age. They get larger/wider. It’s happened to me over the last year and a half. The tendons loose their elasticity as we age and the foot spreads out more. You may not notice it at all in your current boots because the leather has stretched and broken in, but in new boots you might. Do that first, then use their sizing guide. I’ve worn these a few days and I’m not having any issues with width, but they definitely aren’t broken in yet. There isn’t much arch support, they feel kind of flat and clunky so far, but that’s ok because they’re just casual boots for me and I’m not going to be in these things 10 hours a day working. If that makes sense. Plus, they’ll probably stat to feel better in a couple months. They look nice though, good traction too. How do you like your western boots? I was in Texas a month ago and I got to say, I loved the various boots I saw! Wow, between the slip ons and full blown dress cowboy boots, to the square steel toe cowboy work boots. Tried a pair on, had a tough time fitting into them but the store I was at didn’t have a great selection. Very intriguing boot segment I’d like to get into!

Yeah, salt and brine here. I Fluid Film at least once a year, sometimes twice with touch ups when I do oil changes

Yeah they seem pretty solid so far. Keep in mind that the fit on the Rutland is not going to give you the toe box that the Waxhaw gives. Just remember that if you order a pair. Either way they’re pretty good with returns, certainly better customer service than Brunt’s. My lord I hate those boots. Good luck!

@doublebase6509 yea I've been doing a lot of research. They say the Rutland fits closer to the foot like thorogood and redwing but still have more room in the toe box so that's why I'm thinking they'll be perfect for what I need. The thorogood are just a bit too narrow. These should hopefully fix that. If not I'll send back and try the waxhaw. Yea the brunts didn't go so well. And the smell was awful! Thanks!

Pretty much the same boot but without the toe caps and speed hooks, right? Good looking boot.

It’s funny you say that, I’ve been meaning to review my Wingshooters.

I was looking for a higher viscosity at operating temperature

I’ll have to check out that boot stretcher online. It’s funny you mention the JK’s, I was looking into buying a pair in their warehouse section, came very close to pulling the trigger but I just couldn’t make my mind up and the pair I was looking at sold overnight. I was a little worried about their sizing too. I’m a 12 5E according to JK as well. I still check out their warehouse/factory defects section pretty regularly, but because you can’t return them makes me a little nervous because even as defects they’re still around $480-$520.

@ I actally got my Drew’s and jk from some one I bought 3 pairs of red wings from off line I paid $150 each pair Couldent even tell they were worn I stole them Jk ot rough out brown with honey sole with nice leather on the side Then Drew’s are the contractorwith logger heel 8” but not rough out So I don’t want my rough out to get matted on jk I bought a brass brush for welding offf anazon and make it all look brand new I know use clean out welts on my boots The jk ot Has non of that stuff ness of the drew boot The drew boot has vibram mini lug So less cushion But the Drew’s have really nice arch support were as jk has good but middle compared to Drew’s then redwing to me has very little to non lol I have flat feet and all my redwings I’ve havecustom fitted my orthotics it they are extemly pain full for my flat feet that my insured pays for There not just like dr sholes Funny enough all bots I got from guy came with soles two redwing he bought the upgrade from redwing This all started I went to red wing bought brand new black smith in black And unfortunately I got home noticed they were defective The left boot the cobbler screwed up the and the left boot curves like a j at the toe I sent pic to redwing. They sent me another pair That’s still sitting in box brand new So 2 red wing black smith 1 as daily 13d 1 black smith copper rough dough 13d 1 iron ranger black 13d 1 iron ranger amber 13d 1 1907 copper rough tough13d 1 875 brown 1 thorogood 13e2 6” Redwing merchant 8061 brown 13d Jk of brown rough out with honey sole 12 e2 Drew contractor 8” 13d The jk read their sizing because it weird The Drew’s I had no choice but if I had option I didt need to stretch them but I would of went one up in e if I bought new The jk I wear with no socks and are perfect lol never gotten blister nothing My first shoes to get blister were Drew’s on my back ankle I then walked in took nears foot oil layed boot side ways all were ur ankle touch’s I soaked it. Made carful not tot get it on were ur foot gose u can fuck up the glue. I did that twice know are perfect 🤩 Less then 1 year my mom wants to kill mee lol 😝

@@TheGameBoy56 wow that’s a lot of boots in one year!! I’m envious. I came very close to buying the 8 inch contractors from Drew’s, but I already have two pairs of Drew’s and I thought it’d be a bit overkill, plus the contractors would be a casual boot for me and that’s a lot of boot for just casual. I current own… Red Wiing Traction Tred Lights Red Wing 415’s Red Wing moc toes (forget the model #) Red Wing 2414 (my next video) Red Wing Iron Ranger copper rough and tough Red Wing Beckmans Feather stone Irish Setter Wing shooters Thursday Captains Storm Kings Thorogood 1957’s Carolina AMP toes Duradero Fargos Duradero Waxhaw Duradero Rutland’s Drew’s 8 inch smooth/roughout black loggers Drew’s 8 inch all smooth brown loggers I’d like to get my hands on some Nicks Builder Pros. I treat every boot periodically depending on use with either Obenaufs (if I don’t care about darkening), Bicks 4, Red Wing boot cream, my own formula of bees wax and neats foot oil.

@@doublebase6509 thank u sir can’t wait for ur next video

I believe Leon Mexico.

Yeah, these new ones so far fit even better.

Yeah that seems to be the universal consensus, this engine can handle,e much heavier weights than 0W20 and perform with virtually the same fuel economy. A lot of people on the forums are running Mobil1 euro 0W40 in these. I’m actually changing my oil today, I’m going with the Mobil1 ESP 0W30. Unbelievable engines and cars! Thanks for watching.

I think I’d end up being too honest is sales and probably lose every deal. Haha. Plus I’m always afraid to ask for this and I’d never be able to close. But it has always been intriguing. I love this jacket! I have beaten the crap out of it for almost a year now and it just doesn’t care. I’ll probably own this thing forever.

Why do you want the inorganic acid technology over the P-Hoat?

@@doublebase6509 pH stable and wont breakdown. Low silicate also help prevent electrolysis and it doesn't cause water pump issue if change on time. Valvoline specially designed to keep pH at 7.5, unlike other universal green at 9+. It also cost only $8/gal of 50/50 vs $25 toyota pink.

@@pnp8849 I must be missing something, are you using this in an older car? IAT is corrosive to aluminum, it’s why on the bottle it says 2002 and older vehicles. IAT is made for older engines with steel/iron/copper components inside. Using something like this in a newer vehicle may do exactly what you’re worrying about. And the Valvoline green is now $20 a bottle (assuming you’re talking about their Zerex). They also make pink Zerex for Toyota, as I’m sure you probably know.

@@doublebase6509 I'm using it in Rav4 2GRFE. It's for aluminum you can read info on there web site. All universal green are compatible with aluminum but I don't like due to higher pH, but I don't have issue before..The reasons behind dated vehicle is the EPA regulation. Just like motor oil w/ ZDDP higher than 800ppm must be label as diesel oil. I also mix diesel oil and car oil it's cheaper and better wear protection.

@@doublebase6509 Valvoline Xerex 100% 2 for $30 online w/ free ship. Then mix 2 gal w/ drinking water.

I just got a pair of Thursday Captians Storm Kings for Christmas. They’re nice but I can tell the difference in overall quality immediately compared to the Iron Ranger.

Copper rough and tough? I could do it in the amber harness, not the copper rough and tough

@@doublebase6509 I use a good pair of socks like Darn Tough socks that's how I do it.

Good thing you replaced that rubber line!

But also since I’ve watched your videos I’m thinking if I would of switched for 0w 20 to 5w 30 it may have eased up a bit

Yeah the dreaded timing cover leak, I’d do exactly what you’re doing…clean it and don’t worry about it. To fix it requires removing the engine. A small like you described is not a big deal.

No I haven’t experienced that, but I know there are like three things that can go wrong that these things are known for…the sunroof rattle, the timing cover leak, cam phaser rattle, possibly head gaskets. The cam phaser thing is usually at very high mileage. The head gaskets are on the older models and they redesigned the gaskets (I believe). The timing cover is something you can live with and the sunroof (well, you know how that goes).

How many miles on it? I’m at around 160,000 now and I haven’t had to do one single out of pocket repair on it yet, just fluids, brakes,tires, wipers. The car has now been hit twice in parking lots though, left rear quarter and right rear quarter around the wheel wells. I fixed one of them for $600. I’ll probably do the other in the spring. Just put new snow tires on it recently, so far so good. I love this car. Never had a car this reliable before in my life, although our 2008 Honda CRV comes close.

@ I’m getting close to 200k. I’m just over 195k I bought it with about 70k ish. I do a lot of driving to get to work. About a 100 mile commute. Mostly freeway miles but I do some city driving too. Even with the miles my wife trusts this car more then her fusion with less the 80k on it. She has some issues with it and we’ve driven this thing literally everywhere . Florida, Texas a few times. Tennessee. We’re just south of Detroit

And so far I’ve changed the brakes on it a few yrs back. Tires twice . And really just fluids. No repairs other than that but I definitely need a strut in the back. I plan on doing a full suspension job in the spring just to get it out of the way .

@ remarkably the best car I’ve ever owned .

@ I may keep mine around for a very long time - as long as rust doesn’t kill it - I figure even if I’m up around 300,000 miles plus, this will still be a good spare car to have around.

Probably my favorite boot right now. And I’ve tried quite a few.

@ I got RW iron ranger, moc toe heritage, eddy bower 6k and timberland 6 inch pro.. and I won’t Drew’s now! My wife look at my like this: 😳 😆😂🤣🤣😭😭

@@rikitikitavi1323 haha! That’s looks about right!

8.2 billion people on earth and he doesn’t realize copper rough and tough has maybe the most intense pull-up of any mass produced leather and the leather will patina in minutes upon even touching the darn stuff. Literally forms patina rubbing against the cardboard box during shipping. Do you fart in bathtubs for fun? Just asking.

Actually had to return these, they were too tight. Got a larger pair, and a pair of Red Wing 2414’s. I’m going to do a 6 month comparison between the two and see how they perform. I’m looking forward to it.

Thanks, love these things.

Agree 1000%.

Yeah, made the switch to 5W30 at around 100,000 to 5W30. I’m doing an oil change next week and going with the 0W30.

Probably one of the more durable boots I’ve seen in a while too.

No, the ones in this video are not steel toe, even though the toes stand up and has a defined shape. You can get these in steel toe though.

@doublebase6509 sorry I didn't realize I asked the same person twice. What are your thoughts on steel toes? Do you think they effect the look of the boot for better or worse? Or no difference? Thanks

@ I personally like the steel toes on these, I don’t own a pair but my son does and I like the look of them a lot. My work doesn’t require steel toes but my next video will be a competition/comparison between steel toed Red Wing 2414’s (legendary work boots) and Duradero Fargo’s (an up and coming company). That video should come out early January.

@doublebase6509 appreciate that 🙏

No, not steel toe.

You need to make a video and show your collection! Drew’s loggers are part of my boot rotation right now and they have been my favorite. I kill these things every day and they eat it up. I wish he could get a pair of Drew’s but his work requires steel or composite toes. He’s considering the Nicks Builder Pros with the steel toe. The only problem…cost and not insulated or waterproof. He is outside a bit and he soaks his boots out 2-3 days a week in some nasty stuff. I came very close to buying another pair of the Drew’s roughout on their close out sale. I could have had a pair for $280 (factory defects). But I already have two pairs and when you try to do boot videos on TH-cam you want some variety. Plus I’m not sponsored and this crap is getting EXPENSIVE.

@ lol I know there gets a point were how many boots do u need

Good timing, and it’s funny you say that. I’m changing my oil next week and I’m probably going with Mobil1 0W30 ESP. I can get it at Walmart now for $28 bucks a jug. Didn’t think that was too bad.

@doublebase6509 I'm using 0w20 due to warrenty, I have a different brand of car, so this would not apply. I'm here for the oil test, lol. Anyway. With my car manufacturer, I have to go with the 0w20, but after a certain mileage that can change that to 5w20, 0w30, or in some cases 5w30. However, the preferred change according to the service department at 60k or so is 0w30. However. I told them why not more protection to oreventvwear. According to them, doing 0w30 now would cause unnecessary wear. I'm not an engineer, so I guess I'm sticking to 0w20, and then 0w30 as soon as I'm off warranty, perhaps. Maybe I'll do what you did. An oil analysis with both oils viscocities and see. Back to the point. Now that you have for your engine oil lab report, you can di a third and see which one is best. Seems like it would best middle in theory. BTW; are you familiar with Valvoline restore and protect ? Check out that oil. I've heard good things, especially engines with some miles. Cleans rings.

@@ericsivilla4091 I have heard all about the Valvoline restore and protect. I’ve read all the blogs on it and watched a lot of videos. I’m not sure if it’s just great marketing or if it really cleans rings and pistons like they say. Their wording in their claims are of course is hedged like every manufacture…cleans “up to” 100% or whatever. That also legally means it can clean up to 0%. I love how oil companies are smarter than we are when it comes to marketing, legal and everything else. But I have considered trying it, BUT keep in mind Mobil1 makes similar claims except they have not marketed it nearly as well as Restore and Protect. Mobil1 also claims their oil can clean pistons and rings, but to what percent, I can’t remember but I don’t think they claimed “up to” 100%. I’ll tell you what, I think every oil manufacturer/blender on the planet should be claiming they can clean rings and pistons up to whatever percent they want based off their independent testing because almost no customer is going to pull out pistons and inspect the gradual cleaning results. Yet I am intrigued by the Restore and Protect. I think your plan on your car/warranty/oil is sound. Good luck with it! Thanks for watching.

@@doublebase6509i have a 05 avalon and last winter i used 0w30 mobil1 advanced fuel economy… about 900 miles later i got an engine light but the car still drove fine, mostly change it at 5-6k miles but i ran it until 10k miles (mostly highway) from new york to california. Changed it out to 0w20 and the light never came back. I believe the light was something about the engine being over retarded. Some other people dont seem to have this problem which i find interesting

@ well the thing that’s interesting is that your car actually recommends the 5W30, not the 0W20. And my car recommends the 0W20, not the 5W30 or 0W30 or 0W40. But you threw a timing light which tells me maybe the 0W20 corrected. Makes me wonder if your screens are dirty of clogged and the 0W20 maybe got through them quicker? No idea. But there’s a ton of TH-cam video showing how to clean or replace those cam actuator screens. I’d start there. Good luck.

Yeah he probably drags his heels a lot more too, plus his work environment overall is more harsh than mine. He comes home everyday with cuts and scrapes in the leather that normally takes me a month to accumulate. Both boots are treated every 4-6 weeks with either Obenaufs or a home made mixture of neats foot oil and bees wax.

Good post! Agree 100%

That 2003 GMC Sierra had that old LS engine in it, that engine is a legend in the automotive community for reliability and durability. The 2018 not so much. I had a 2018 Silverado, babied it and changed the oil every 5,000 miles. None of it mattered. The thing still began misfiring and stuttering up the highways every morning at 45,000 miles. Junk. Traded it back to the dealer at 52,000 miles. I wasn’t going to even attempt to take that thing to 500,000 miles when it could barely make it to 50,000 miles without having to repair it every other month. Tranny was already acting up at that point as well. Good insight on the Toyotas and Hondas. I’ve heard a few negative things about that 1.5T from Honda, and of course the Tundras with the V6 turbos are having some big problems.

@ He also had a 2012 Silverado and a 2014. All had the 5.3 and were crap after about 75,000 miles. My manager has (and for some reason kept) a 2022 5.3 Silverado where her engine locked up at 8,000 miles. Speaking of Chevrolet, me and 9 other people I know had the Equinox with the 2.4. Every single one of them needed at least one new timing chain, and a few needed two. I rode with a coworker the other day that had a 2021 Equinox 1.5 with 78,000 miles and it was stuttering and jerking. That corporation has fallen so far.

@@PWB69 yeah after 2007 GM went with cylinder deactivation in their 5.3 engines. Oil consumption followed, collapsed lifters, etc. It’s hit or miss, depends on how drive or your luck. The transmissions - in my opinion - are even more of a problem, IMO. I probably would never buy a GM product again. I feel burned by them.

Well, you got your money’s worth out of that thing. Good job! Unless of course you bought it with 449,000 miles on it.

I just looked them up! Apparently they tried to bring them back but they were not the same quality as the legendary 1892’s. Looking into them brought to me their other 1892 heritage style casual boots, and man I wish they still made that stuff!