Just tackled this before installing interior. I done the 9" rear end, body bushings, ac box rebuild, dash, floor shifter and now climate control rebuild, from your videos. Thanks.
The videos on this build never disappoint. It’s great to be finding out things about a car I owned some 25 years ago that was virtually the same car. I knew a LOT about the car, but not this much. I HAVE to see this thing in person when it hits the road! 👍🏼👍🏼 Again, great job my friend!
hutchhiperf patience my friend. It’ll all be worth it as soon as you turn the key. And the first time you leave a stop sign/light sideways with smoke billowing out of the fender wells you’ll say to yourself “self...why didn’t we do this sooner”? 😂
I'm inspired to investigate my 81 control .... the fan switch stopped working, so I hardwired full power to the fan motor to get heat in winter.... I also bypassed the hot water valve - I have to move the radiator hose to ON in winter, or total bypass in summer :0) Got doubts about my vacuum system too. The switch switch does not move well. Maybe I have the "no ball" style switch. I have to take a walk through the wrecker and see what I can find I totally understand why folks are getting into these G bodies: the 60s "hotrods" are all high priced "collector" items now. Common folk want something they can "fix" (or break) themselves, cheap parts in wrecking yards. Now that is even getting rare. Mine came with a Buick V6, but I knew they also had V8 which would fit, even the 455 big blocks with minor mods (had to weld on a new engine mount to the rear crossmember and get the dreveshaft cur/balanced. Really great to see all the support from parts suppliers, and useful online presentations, thanks to people like you..
Excellent video again Do you know which switch would cause the air to only blow from floor and vents regardless of where the lever is? Is it the larger switch you took apart with the springs? Or the vacuum side of it at fault? The
It almost sounds like vacuum. If you have a vac gauge (or even your finger as a check for vac) you could check the servos for vacuum and trace it back from there. If you watch the video you can see a slider arm for that switch. It controls a vaccum plug as well that distributes the vacuum.
My hodge-podged 79 GM unit...mounted on a Dodge M500 Frame, all driven w/ 440/A727 drive train, all in a 1980 Fleetwood RV, E-25 Package equipped,, well it came as a _"Some Assembly Required"_ deal ;) My issue is the 7 "Teats" coming out the back and why in the world can't I find a diagram for proper what vacuum line to what teat placement anywhere....found a few for the typical round pattern, which also usually is accompanied with these mounted on a pre-fit plastic ring as to plug all vacuum lines in @ once ;) and even more concerning is that there's only 4 vacuum lines (all 1 color, BLACK) to put on said teat's, and should I block off the remaining 3 teats....or start looking for different vacuum depend devices with no lines on them?. I did sort out which was my suck source by of course, starting the engine... guessing the other 3 here, one is for defrost flap other is for fresh/recircl and 3rd for heater core??? But that'll be the easy part, I just don't know which line goes to which teat, I wasn't fortunate enough to have one of those factory form factored pre-set rings that let ya plug em all in @ once. This one also doesn't have said _"Teats"_ arranged in a circular pattern, these are all just splayed across the back of unit, no stamped numbers, letters, nothing Haven't had a free minute to back trace these yet, got one now, and yep....raining blood out there currently Par for the Course...
Just did the same job on my 85 t-type control unit but I had the big idea to disassemble the vacuum switch/valve to make sure it was clear and clean. Realized there’s no index on the valve and not sure if I’ll be able to reassemble it with the valve gasket oriented properly with the holes in the valve body (hope that makes sense). Did I screw myself, or is there a way to reassemble the valve properly?
You would need a wiring schematic. Then it's just a matter of positive to power supply pin and check for continuity on the others while the switch is moved.
@@thomasdemarco617 Sorry if I didn't say that right. That's what I meant . Though it wouldn't matter, I always us the red lead on the "power" side. Old habit.
See this pic practicalpages.com/ebay2/ACcontrolChevy84/ACcontrolChevy84bottom.jpg There is a small push washer that is over the cable loop on the stud it's pushed on. Pry that off to be able to get the cable end off. The cable housing end (which is red in the pic, but black on ours) has a clip that snaps in to the housing. Flip the unit upside down and you'll see it. Use a small flat blade to pop that loose and it should come off. Use care with these parts, they're old.
@@thomasdemarco617 Because I bought the car running and drove it many times. It worked. I'm not going to fix what doesn't need fixing until it's broke.
Common issue, mine does too. Don't force the lever all the way, or you'll break the black plastic pivot arm (located behind the glove box) that the control cables attach to. They sell reproduction arms as it happens so often. No high speed could be a bad relay (on the AC box under the hood).
![CAMPปลิ้น | EP.77[2/2] "รับทราบ" แก๊งเพื่อนรัก 10 ปี ที่ไปไหนก็มีตำนาน!](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ifc0ofD51B0/mqdefault.jpg)
Hutch, just stumbled across this video. Couldn't ask for a better tutorial for fixing these control units. Great info!
Just tackled this before installing interior. I done the 9" rear end, body bushings, ac box rebuild, dash, floor shifter and now climate control rebuild, from your videos. Thanks.
Thank you sir!! Glad to hear they helped. Nice LS Regal project you got going on.
@@hutchhiperf thanks. I meant Quick Performance 9" rear end.
The videos on this build never disappoint. It’s great to be finding out things about a car I owned some 25 years ago that was virtually the same car. I knew a LOT about the car, but not this much. I HAVE to see this thing in person when it hits the road! 👍🏼👍🏼 Again, great job my friend!
Thanks a lot! I would also love to see this car in person on the road. Some days it seems like it will never get done. I just keep plugging ahead.
hutchhiperf patience my friend. It’ll all be worth it as soon as you turn the key. And the first time you leave a stop sign/light sideways with smoke billowing out of the fender wells you’ll say to yourself “self...why didn’t we do this sooner”? 😂
I just started watching your videos. They are great!! I have an 1987 El Camino. My heater controls came with the blue and red stripe on it
Thumbs up for sure, thank you for posting this. I was really hoping that you would show more of the vacuum lines control. My wheel is somehow broke.
If you mean the vacuum switch, it called ACDelco HVAC Control Vacuum Check Valve. That and the electric switch can be found if you hunt long enough.
Love the addition of the blue and red strip, when it comes to stuff like that I have a bit of OCD too.
It's a good thing in this hobby as long as it doesn't hold you back. :-)
Thanks Amin having the same problem keep the video coming 🙏🏾🏆
I really like this video it was very helpful on my 1984 El Camino
Great job great video was big help thanks man
Great video, thanks!
Thank you sir!
I'm inspired to investigate my 81 control .... the fan switch stopped working, so I hardwired full power to the fan motor to get heat in winter.... I also bypassed the hot water valve - I have to move the radiator hose to ON in winter, or total bypass in summer :0) Got doubts about my vacuum system too. The switch switch does not move well. Maybe I have the "no ball" style switch. I have to take a walk through the wrecker and see what I can find
I totally understand why folks are getting into these G bodies: the 60s "hotrods" are all high priced "collector" items now. Common folk want something they can "fix" (or break) themselves, cheap parts in wrecking yards. Now that is even getting rare. Mine came with a Buick V6, but I knew they also had V8 which would fit, even the 455 big blocks with minor mods (had to weld on a new engine mount to the rear crossmember and get the dreveshaft cur/balanced. Really great to see all the support from parts suppliers, and useful online presentations, thanks to people like you..
Excellent video again
Do you know which switch would cause the air to only blow from floor and vents regardless of where the lever is? Is it the larger switch you took apart with the springs? Or the vacuum side of it at fault? The
It almost sounds like vacuum. If you have a vac gauge (or even your finger as a check for vac) you could check the servos for vacuum and trace it back from there. If you watch the video you can see a slider arm for that switch. It controls a vaccum plug as well that distributes the vacuum.
thanks I have a 92 s10 with the same switches
My hodge-podged 79 GM unit...mounted on a Dodge M500 Frame, all driven w/ 440/A727 drive train, all in a 1980 Fleetwood RV, E-25 Package equipped,, well it came as a _"Some Assembly Required"_ deal ;)
My issue is the 7 "Teats" coming out the back and why in the world can't I find a diagram for proper what vacuum line to what teat placement anywhere....found a few for the typical round pattern, which also usually is accompanied with these mounted on a pre-fit plastic ring as to plug all vacuum lines in @ once ;)
and even more concerning is that there's only 4 vacuum lines (all 1 color, BLACK) to put on said teat's, and should I block off the remaining 3 teats....or start looking for different vacuum depend devices with no lines on them?. I did sort out which was my suck source by of course, starting the engine... guessing the other 3 here, one is for defrost flap other is for fresh/recircl and 3rd for heater core??? But that'll be the easy part, I just don't know which line goes to which teat, I wasn't fortunate enough to have one of those factory form factored pre-set rings that let ya plug em all in @ once. This one also doesn't have said _"Teats"_ arranged in a circular pattern, these are all just splayed across the back of unit, no stamped numbers, letters, nothing
Haven't had a free minute to back trace these yet, got one now, and yep....raining blood out there currently
Par for the Course...
Thanks just got mine out now I know
Just did the same job on my 85 t-type control unit but I had the big idea to disassemble the vacuum switch/valve to make sure it was clear and clean. Realized there’s no index on the valve and not sure if I’ll be able to reassemble it with the valve gasket oriented properly with the holes in the valve body (hope that makes sense). Did I screw myself, or is there a way to reassemble the valve properly?
You got me there. I'm sure someone must have done this.
@@hutchhiperf that’s what I figured! But I haven’t found anyone discussing it.
@@slowriot you might want to check the boards at gbodyforum. That's always my "go to" for info
I did the same thing did you find out how to put it back together probably?
Great instructional video. Can you do this for every part on the car? 😂
I'm on it! 🤣
awesome video once again. Do you know where i can buy those vacuum lines from. I found the gray and yellow vacuum lines cut from a previous owner.
Hmmm. Not sure on that one. Don't know of anyone making repops of that.
You can find them in the junk yard...
Love your videos
Thank you. Tell a friend. I need all the help I can get. Thanks again.
hutch do you know how to test these two switches with a multimeter Thanks
You would need a wiring schematic. Then it's just a matter of positive to power supply pin and check for continuity on the others while the switch is moved.
@@hutchhiperf ohms continuity would do it don't you think
@@thomasdemarco617 Sorry if I didn't say that right. That's what I meant . Though it wouldn't matter, I always us the red lead on the "power" side. Old habit.
My Ac won't blow at the top. Can you tell me the problem? Which part on mine is broken?
Hard to say from here. Do you mean the high fan blower speed?
How do you remove the buttom cable??
See this pic practicalpages.com/ebay2/ACcontrolChevy84/ACcontrolChevy84bottom.jpg
There is a small push washer that is over the cable loop on the stud it's pushed on. Pry that off to be able to get the cable end off. The cable housing end (which is red in the pic, but black on ours) has a clip that snaps in to the housing. Flip the unit upside down and you'll see it. Use a small flat blade to pop that loose and it should come off. Use care with these parts, they're old.
Where is the bulb located? Thanks
Looking at the front, it's in the upper right on the back. You can see it at 4:26 and again at 23:19.
@@hutchhiperf Thanks, just changed it out
@@lstackhouse345 For the WIN!
I am surprised you dont address the 9 port vacuum port issues and the dump valve issues how to test and possible repair
Mine seemed to work ok. I don't have a second one to tear apart. My motto is "Ain't broke, don't fix" :-)
@@hutchhiperf how do you know is isnt broken? is my point they dry out
@@thomasdemarco617 Because I bought the car running and drove it many times. It worked. I'm not going to fix what doesn't need fixing until it's broke.
@@hutchhiperf do you refurbish units on the side
@@hogansmith7589 no sorry
I don’t have high speed and my cold lever won’t go all the way over to cold maybe 90% of the way
Common issue, mine does too. Don't force the lever all the way, or you'll break the black plastic pivot arm (located behind the glove box) that the control cables attach to. They sell reproduction arms as it happens so often. No high speed could be a bad relay (on the AC box under the hood).
Goodinfo
can i pay u to restore mines , my ac switch wont blow on high
Sorry, I don't work outside my own car. I'm sure there's a competent shop in your area. Good luck.
They sell the replacement switch’s that’s comes with lifetime warranty that what I did.
Question
Yes. Question everything.