Detroit Diesel cooling system and blower trouble
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ต.ค. 2024
- In this video I fabricate a new pipe for the coolant on the Detroit Diesel and get a Detroit mechanic Adrian to come and check the engine before I try to fire it up for the first time. Unfortunately he finds a few things that need attention first...
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Good job pluggin away at it.
It would be great if you could film Adrian working on those parts.
I would like that too!
Really just shows that having a specialist is so important to the Finished Engine, Imagine kicking the Detroit in the Guts and hearing the blower reboring its self into the housing, OOOPS, Well caught
Yes, I'm certainly not regretting getting Adrian in for a final checkover of everything before turning the key.
I can't believe you didn't get in a crash in that smoke...you were driving on the wrong side of the road the whole time
For those flare fittings from the block to the oil cooler/filter and any other fittings of the same type. Need no thread sealer on them. The sealing surface of that type of fitting is the JIC 37.5° or AN 45° flat angle at the end of the fitting, and putting anything on the threads does nothing to seal up the connection. In fact it can create a leak. As a former race mechanic and industrial mechanic I have seen many people do exactly what you did to this fittings and they leaked afterwards after I cleaned all that stuff off of it, and reconnected the fittings, the leaks were gone. Pipe sealant is good for pipe threads from the holes in the block to the fittings themselfs, but not the JIC, or AN end of the fitting to the hoses.
I think his intention was as a thread lock. But yes I have never used sealer on any AN fittings before. But then I have never fitted a detroit 2 stroke to a boat before either.
Agreed. The only place a sealer should be used is on the pipe thread where is screws in to the block. Also thread locker is not required on the flare threads. In my 42 years as an aircraft mechanic we never put thread locker on the fittings. All we use is an assembly lube so we get an accurate reading on the torque and the mating surfaces of the flare do not gall.
It’s not a thread sealer, it’s a thread locker. The point is to keep the fitting from coming loose from vibration. We do this on any AN fuel or oil fittings.
@@hightide9513 No 21:12 shows clearly enough that it is a thread sealer. A Google of their site also shows it as a thread locker.
With a project as complex as yours is Stu it's always 2 steps forward and 1-1/2 steps back... but there is a dim light beginning to show at the end of this long rebuild/refurbishment tunnel.
Thanks for the update Stu... Despite this small setback you are going great guns mate. When she fires up soon I can hear those resounding words from the great Rocky Balboa.... "Yo Adrian ...we did it !!! "
Thank Mark. Slowly getting there. Any day now I'll be swapping money for noise! ;)
Christ, I thought that was fog. Some bush fire's! Gonna have to Google them, looks scary.
The ubiquitous "something of an inch to something other of an inch" adapter, I use those all the time too! Loving your channel, mate.
Thanks mate. :)
Might want to install a drain hose for oil drain for easier oil change. I think it is called flock system.
Put the corret amount of oil in it then wait till the engine is fitted in the boat to adjust the dipstick
That's sure a much simpler and easier way to set the dipstick!
That's exactly what he said in the video he is going to do.......
@@JCrook1028 he actually said he'd re adjust it once its installed in the boat.. why not just put the tight amount of oil in and adjust the dipstick once instead of twice
@@caseydixon8714 No, he did not say he would "readjust" it. He said he would NOT cut it until it was IN the boat. So.....ONE adjustment.
@@JCrook1028 oh ok i wonder what he was talking about spirit levels and checking the engine bed on the boat for then..
Hey Stu did you put some sealer on the bolts and fittings on the water side of the manifold ! Yep your right mate, put the recommended amount of oil in the engine with the filter plus a bit and then cut the dip stick to length !! Great vid thanks mate. Seeya Rob
I have been concerned about you and your country people, about the fires that are raging not that far away from you. Although our fires do not affect me directly in the middle part of California where I live, even some of the large fires that are several hundred miles to the north, the smoke will drift here and turn the sky milky white and you can smell it. Our news media does not spent but a brief time talking about your fires but with the smoke you showed in this video, make me know that massive destruction is raging not far from where you live. Hopeful you will stay safe and that rains will come soon to put those fires out. Enjoyed another chapter in the rebuilding of you boat and look forward to the next video.
It’s almost 5 o’clock somewhere, but not in your shop!
So what is the go with the bolt that doesn't tighten @5.10?
I'm guessing stripped thread. :(
The oil cooler fittings that you put thread sealer on do not need sealer. They are JIC or SAE and they actually sealy on the flare not the threads.
I thought they were called "A-N fittings" (Army-Navy).
@@dustyfarmer it depends on the angle of the flare. 45 Deg is a SAE fitting (Some call them AN) and 37.5 Deg is a JIC fitting
I like it----another wall clock in your shop that's not working!
My boat has a Detroit 12 v71. And it’s a tank absolutely love it. All mechanical no electrical. And can fix everything on my own.
That's certainly what makes them so good in single screw boats!
Videos are good but the hardest part is sitting through the excessive on screen time you spend. Talk over video and keep it interesting. Thanks for your work.
G'Day Stu,,Mate those oil lines look to be JIC,,No need for loctite as they seal metal to metal on the taper,Some even have bleed of holes for when the fitting is loose,,Just weaps,,
before getting to exciting,,AND,,Typical with the hydraulic community,,are measured in 1/16's of an inch,I.E.1/2 inch is really 8/16's..or size 8..I Think,,always used BSP fittings,on most of the gear i had to maintain,
Hmm,,TC 16 was the right choice,,how ever would have just warmed pipe and the electrodes, make 's for better weld bond,,Get some of the water in the metal out,less boiled water in weld metal.
Pick of Destiny! Love it....
The 71 series. A world wide proven motor time and time again. It will out last anything manufactured today. Love your commitment to it.
Wait to mark the dipstick until in the boat. Fill with factory spec, mark it. I would not cut it.
yet another top vid thanks.
so you have a clock on the boat and one in the work shop and both dont work ha. make one good one out of the two.
Steve
UK
Yeah, Huh!! I am VERY early because I am a night owl. It's 03:17 EDT.
Always something more than you expected isn't it. Good that your doing it right. Last thing you want is to break down at sea. It's coming together nice.
Specialist is the only way to take a Detroit out to sea, or it will be ... break down after break down until you get it right...Fine auxiliary, and a bit of an expensive pain in the ass.
Its coming along nicely Stu No rush Do it once do it right
... or do it several times just so long as the last time is right, eh.
@@amascia8327 Ahahaha, or in My case the Third Attempt!
Thanks mate!
You may want to put a "T" on the oil pressure port and plumb in a pressure gauge at the engine. You'll end up needing to start, run, and check engine operation at the engine and not just the pilot house sometime in the future. It's best to do that now before installing the engine in the boat. A small engine control panel at the engine will be very nice to have. Instead of a pressure gauge at the engine you could just put in a low oil pressure switch and light. That would also allow adding an low oil pressure audible alarm that can be heard out on the deck so when you are running the engine while doing something away from the pilot house or at the engine you can be warned you have a serious engine problem. I'd do the same with engine temp as well. Detroit Diesels don't take over temp or low oil pressure condition's at all.
A T is a good idea. I would like to put a simple mechanical one in for first start up.
@@DangarMarine You will definitely want a "local start" provision in the engineroom.
Good catch on the cracked blower end plate. If you had fired it up with the rotors contacting the housing, you'd have had a very rude surprise. Adrian is a talented mechanic.
Yes, I'm really glad he knew how it should feel. He said the best thing from the whole situation is that the engine had never been started.
You don't want to have to replace a damaged rotor. Not cheap.
Good work Stu , you remembered my recommendation on using WIA 16TC rods. I could tell by the sound of the molten pool, that you had your amps set correctly. And the absence of splatter too, it’s right amps. Even if you pressure tested it and decided it wasn’t satisfactory, you could still put two more passes around that pipe and it would be totally fine only staggering the stop starts from the previous bead underneath. Another tip, before you start the weld, do a dummy run and make sure you are able to complete the longest possible weld in one go by making sure you have enough lead from the electrode handle and not snag on anything on the ground including your legs and full range of movement for your wrist and elbow to complete the longest possible weld pass going around the pipe or around a right angle corner or square tube to help with less stops and starts and smoother weld contour.
Also your welds are looking better too mate . Well done
That are great rods, I don't think I'll ever use anything else again. I do need to get in the habit of doing the dummy run as I often don't start supporting my arms in the right position.
Great advice on making a dummy run. Another bit to add onto it is thinking about clearance for the electrode with a fresh rod or one partially burned down. "Will it fit under that bracket with a half rod or do I need to weld it out in a different order." That one's got me more than once.
Scott Maschino , yeah I know mate , I try not to give out too many trade secrets, as too many amateurs will start looking at chasing my job. I only tell stu coz he’s a good bloke 😉
Glad you are paying Attention to the Oil Flow to/from the Filter. When I bought my last Boat, I had the Dealer install Volvo's Remote Oil Filter. Oil Lines were reversed, and at about 120 hrs(2 summers) the Engine sounded like it had Mechanical Lifters. I touched the Oil Filter and it was cold, after 2 hours of 3500 - 4000 rpm. I took it back the Dealer and Explained what I found. Next day the called and said I had guessed correctly. All the bearings, Crankshaft, Camshaft, Cylinders, and Pistons were badly worn. Dealer got a New Long Block from Volvo and replaced it. It has now given me 14 yrs of trouble free use
Ouch. That's an expensive mistake to make!
Great work Stu! Not sure if you know already but if you set your camera to 50fps instead of 60 you're gonna get rid of alot of that light flickering because the powergrid use 50hz mate.
Unfortunately it only does 30 or 60.
@@DangarMarine ah yee unfortunate!
Frustrating - but better to get it 100% before installing in the boat! Look forward to the next episode...
I tossed the factory bearing plates and bought some nice billet aluminium ones with much better bearing retainers. Much stronger too. You can get the front and rear ones on eBay for around $100 us each.
Nice, I'll see what I can find. Even if I can't do it now it could be a good upgrade down the track.
Its interesting that your shop/work space is open to the outside. Even here in California the weather isn't that agreeable all the time.
Yes, it never gets that cold here even in winter.
Use better hose clamps the kind that tighten with a screw and nut.
I keep looking away when people weld on video.......doh 🤣
Some habits are hard to break!
Not alone. lol.
witness marks on everything when you take it apart is the only way to go. have you thought about puting a compressor on the rear gearcase. would be great if you ever use airbags for salvage lifting.
Yes, I have thought about putting a compressor on. It would certainly save a lot of space over the big petrol compressor.
Hey Stu, At About 4:00+ You Didn't Put Any Tread Sealer On Bolts+? It May Leak Some Being A Water Jacket, Dependin On Pressures? LOL Thanks Mate
17K views in less than a day.... well done! The Dangar Stu Fan Club shows up in force.
And thank God for all the Detroit 'gurus' out there. While I think the Detroit Diesel may be the greatest powerplant ever made, it DOES have to be treated with respect(well, some, at least...)
Keep up the good work, Stu! Greetings from Florida, USA.
Thanks Steve.
Hey Stu, Make sure all your hose clamps are easy to get to when the motor is installed. Putting the screw in the right direction could save you hours in a rolling boat later. Also get yourself some Clamp Aids for the end of those hose clamps so they are not little knifes waiting to cut you. I have a 4 inch scar where a hose clamp end laid my forearm open when working on a boat. www.clamp-aid.com/
They certainly can cut deep those clamps.
@12:35 Dean does his disappearing ghost act 😊
this might seem slightly off topic but I suddenly wondered about working with Diesel, are there any medical concerns about getting it on you or the exhaust affecting your lungs?
Diesel exhaust fumes aren't great for you but I don't think getting it on your skin in small doses is that bad.
Hey doing it right is never a bad thing, it’ll cost more but in the years ahead when your cruising it you’ll be glad you did. Great Video Stu, every morning I’m checking my mail to see if your here and everyday you are I enjoy it. I’m in the process of putting a new Cummins in my 2008 3500 Dodge Ram 4x4 so I know about huntin parts. Have a great day and stay safe!!!!
Thanks mate, you are right it is worth doing right. Good luck with your Cummins!
That blower shaft drive is the old, original fine-spline setup. At some point in the 80's, they updated them to a coarse spline arrangement, so when yours failed, you would have the privilege of buying not only a new shaft, but also new sprockets to mate up with the coarse splines. I know this, because I had the privilege of sitting in a small town in Western Ohio for 5 days and 4 nights while the parts supplier kept sending the wrong (incompatible) parts to the shop where I had been towed. The owner of the truck had the parts sitting on the shelf back home, and he finally got ticked off and over-nighted them, which he probably should have done 4 days sooner. Once the correct (and matching) shaft and drive and driven sprockets arrived, we were rolling again in short order. To be fair though, even before the update, you would/should have replaced the sprockets anyways, as you wouldn't want to trust the splines anymore once they had stripped out the splines on the shaft. That truck had an 8v-92 in it, and it was a replacement for a big silver-92 that had blown up. The green replacement itself was pretty well whipped by the time I got my hands on it. I've never been much of a fan of the old green leakers, always figured they were man's best invention for converting diesel fuel into noise. But for applications where climbing up mountains with heavy loads isn't the main focus, they're probably suitable powerplants. Not bad motors if you're drifting across the flatlands, but any truck I had with a -71 or a -92, I had to turn off the headlights so that the truck couldn't see the big hills coming up ahead of us.
You've doubled my resolve to carry spares Stan! Fortunately they work pretty well on the ocean where you have a constant load and no big hills to get up. :)
You should have shot off an e-mail to Roger Penske. He loves this kind of stuff. And he owns Detroit Diesel . Wear one of his T-shirts, no telling what he would send you . Good catch on that blower. I had one come apart on me many years ago on a 671. it blew the whole housing right off the top of the motor. The repairs were over $3,000.00 . And that was over 30 years ago. Again, great videos ! Keep up the good work !
For sure, things would have been much worse had we tried to start it!
these old 2stroke detroits the dipstick was off from factory the reason people pointed this out was when under hard load and after wear was put on them they had to have total oil volume removed aka reduce max fill because of a issue with these engines running away running on theyre own crank case oil due to blow by forcing crank oil into the intake making them run away till they went boom LOL.
I think total volume reduction was around 1-1.5 quarts after they were wore in this was common for tow truck service vehicles and dump trucks and school buses and such they removed the oil capacitty to reduce the blowby forcing raw oil into the super charger where it was atomized and turned into raw fuel making them run away and when they went into run away they then started extreme RPM's which caused even more blowby and raw oil to be dumped into super charger aka horrible chain reaction meaning it will scream till it blows LOL.
Hi Stu I'm an avid follower of your channel a bot owner my self I know u said Dec the 22 do you think it's still on?? I visited Sidney a few years ago stayed in gold Burroughs apartment's amazing city...... Hope u get it done in time all the best from the home of ship building the Clyde Scotland 🍻
The engine may be in before the 22nd but I don't think it will be aligned and working yet unfortunately.
Never came across the Detroit Diesel in any detail until watching this channel. An uniformed impression is that they are more trouble than they are worth. This engine is costing $$ to bring back to service and appears to have a pit fall at every turn( and that is for a qualified mechanic) can anyone tell me why an amateur mechanic in the same position should not just dump the Detroit overboard and use it as a mooring block. Replacing it with a nice cummins/cat/yanmar etc.?.. Educate me😁
Once fixed it will be very reliable which is a good thing in a boat. As it runs on unit injectors rather than a high pressure fuel pump like most modern diesels it can have a cylinder fail and still get you back to port.
Hardly a setback. Goody bloody luck more like it.
A setback would be starting it and sending shrapnel through the new motor.
For sure. A set back for the schedule but a win over all.
In the words of Rocky Balboa it's not how many times you get knocked down its how many times you get back up. Lol😂
Stu your contacts you are a lucky son of a whatsit😆
Nice one😉
Getting back up is all you can do!
I assume it's probably too cost prohibitive, but do you ever use 90/10 CuNi for sea water? Nice part it once it's installed you'll never have to mess with it again.
I'm pretty much just putting the old bronze parts on or replacing with RFP, but I'll look into it for the future.
I haven't checked in for a little bit but the engine looks beautiful. Congratulations! your are almost there looking back through the hole journey.
Thanks mate. :)
Are there subtle differences between "dodgy" on the one hand and "manky" on the other?
Dodgy is not quite right, manky is dirty.
Hey Stu, that is a great job you are doing.. all new parts, its gonna serve you well for many years! Love the Tenacious D tshirt haha, Cheers from Croatia!
Thanks mate.
A good catch with the blower, it it had been started with rotors rubbing the housings you would be looking for an entire new blower and taking the engine apart again to get the aluminium shavings out of everywhere. They only spin for a few seconds before enough heat is made to expand the rotors and make them tear up the surfaces and lock.
For sure Ray, I'm glad I didn't try to start it.
@ 1:55 What no safety thongs (flip-flops) , the bottom of your feet might get dirty !
Great video. I know you are disappointed, but it sure makes a good video! Thanks from the Chesapeake!
Thanks Jeff, hopefully it will all be fixed up next week. :)
Thanks for the video.
Just stumbled on to your videos Great imfo. Howdy from Texas.
Welcome!
That smoke is thicc!
Just a thought, on the fresh water pipe you made up, a small weld bead on the ends where the hose clamp goes will help prevent the hose from comming off.
I did experiment with that but it is already 3mm over sized and a very tight fit so I couldn't get it over the bead.
Were you having trouble stifling your laughter at the sound of the chooks right at the beginning? They made me chuckle! Are they of any help in the workshop, or are they going to be your crew? :-)
Great going Stu! :-)
They do make me laugh, they get very insistent when they are hungry! :)
3:10 you're welcome Stu. Sorry I didn't put enough cold gal on it to keep it looking pretty. I've seen it sitting on your bench a few times. Kept hoping it didn't fall off and break your foot.
Thanks Warren! :)
don't forget the long sleeves, else you'll get an unwanted tan...
You might need thread sealant on the bolts into the water jacket on the exhaust manifold. Looks like the holes extend into the jacket at the 3:25 point.
Slow but with confident steps twards the end good and first class work done
Keep the good work and vids up stu
God bles you and family
Thanks mate.
That’s awesome that you have friends that are knowledgeable and helpful. You’re doing a great job and thanks for bringing us along.
Yup Bring On Another Thousand, am there doing that lol
I feel your pain.
There must be something wrong with me. I didn't get most of the tech talk but for some reason, I enjoy seeing the Detroit being worked on and fixed up. As for the smoke... in London years ago they would have said: " Cor Blimey Guv, ain't that a good an' proper pea souper". (Any Americans reading this. Accent wise, just think Dick Van Dyke Mary Poppins. Hmmm. Well perhaps not.)
Thanks mate, glad you enjoyed!
I did. On a more basic level, I watched one today where they dug out foam from the inside of a lightship. Mined it to be honest. Now THAT was tenacity.
I was that too! Oddly mesmerising. :)
,,good idea to have a pro. look at your repairs, a bit of fine tuning always helps in the long run, great vid..
Hi Stu, I love your videos...a great blend of two passions...boats and Detroit 2-strokes.
I scrolled through almost all the comments and didn't see this mentioned. And by now I'm sure Scott or someone has said this...but for others reading these comments...Detroit 2-stroke engines require CF-2 rated oil. That Turboil is the proper viscosity/weight, but it's CF-4 rated and I don't see that it meets the CF-2 specs.
I'm working backwards through the videos, so I know the ending! Great stuff. - best wishes to you!
Great episode Stu, nothing more valuable like having someone to catch on some issues before hand. Thank you Adrian ;)
That engine looks Amazing!!!
radio talk show star in our presence! Another day in paradise. the red boat needs ''jus more duck tape''
Bloody ripper stu
Oil on the Lens?, a variation of the old Vaseline on the Lens Filter trick used by Bob Guccione, Publisher of Penthouse Magazine, in attempts to make his Snapshots of the Model look Professional
That's what I was aiming for. ;)
These old Screaming Jimmies are worth the effort once completed.
Stu, you gotta remember that every silver lining has a cloud
They do. ;)
Another great video mate, so glad you found the blower issue. Still wondering about that 1 bolt that is either too short or stripped out threads in the block.
A coopers to ponder over it might help. Look forward to the follow up. Russ.
Me too, we did not find the answer to that question
I went back and rewatched that portion of the video to make sure I hadn't dozed off when Stu was telling us what was up with that bolt.
Stu commented on it in another question about it with this: Dangar Marine 4 hours ago:
"I'm going to stick a borescope in next time I'm at the workshop and look. "
Got to love JB and KG!
Square hole in blower drive is probably for the mechanical tach drive. I've got the same 4/71 in my boat. Took me a while to find an original AC tach, cable and reduction drive. I'm enjoying your video's and finding the insite invaluable. I've also got a left hand engine and finding most on TH-cam are right hand not that it makes much difference.
@10:00 thought I was watching Bus Grease Monkey there for a minute ;-)
Always enjoyable
Why not doing it in copper pipe
Well, all hail Adrian. Sounds like a pretty useful contact. Nice one Stu. Take care, enjoy.
It's great to have friends that you can count on in a time of need and to reciprocate the favor.
LOVE THIS BUILD
Mate, its a quarter to five!! For ever!
Even a stopped clock tells the right time twice a day!
Stu says to chickens as he steals their egg; "sorry guys, its a fair swap"...your kids for some scraps :)...sorry Stu, couldn't help myself finishing that sentence...now to watch the rest of the video!
Who here kinda misses the Green Machine? LOL
Me!
Are you scared of a run away? i had a Detroit 4-71 and it ran away on me. I can’t understand why the Detroit’s does that.
Not scared, but prepared. ;)
Dangar Marine love your vids.. i can’t wait for the trawler to move!! Haha great answer by the way😂
One man's simple fix can drive another nuts. The guy with the Detroit experience might've spent all day trying to get the outboard shifting properly. It's just the nature of the beast and you have to go with it now and again.
16tcs are every aussie boilermakers favourite rod. They are so easy to run especially out of position.
I'm totally sold. I can't imagine using anything else now. Glad visibility of puddle tool. General 6013 rods and it's all smoke and slag but these you get a really clear view.
Us Boily’s say if ya can’t weld with a 16tc ya may as well give it up now 😂
Best rod out and such an easy rod to start
16tc ripper rod
Every time I see those Austarc electrodes, i have to google them to see what they are in North America. I am Canadian, but for the most part, we follow AWS. These are 3/32" E7016, which we have, but they are not as common as E7018. Both low Hydrogen and are supposed to be kept in a rod oven at 250 Deg.F once the cellophane sleeve is opened.
Interesting!
Hey Stu, I have heard you bring up Patreon before and one of my subs asked why I wasn't on it? I went ahead and signed up so will see?
Big question is..... Did you fit the hose clamps so they are accessible once engine is squeezed back into that engine compartment. How frustrating would it be not to be able to tighten it if you had a little leak etc!!
It's getting there Stu won't be long now
Stu
I have a 4 71 blower . Let me know if you need it. I live in Oklahoma
Thanks Michael, I've sourced one locally but I appreciate the offer. :)
That what us boat people do, help each other when needed.
Oil on the camera lens ? Naw , just say that is special effects like Star Wars . Great work Man and knock back a few coldies !
nice t shirt