Very informative Adam. I am looking to build another Koi pond with a viewing window.I really find your explanations very useful. Thank you very much for uploading, they have given me something to work with.
Although mechanical filtration is measured by and related the size of the pond and the turn over rate, biological filtration is not dependent upon turnover rate and is not related to the size of the pond. Biological filtration has to do with the load rate on the filter and it is adapative, technique has a lot to do with it. Biological filters respond to load. So the measure of a biological filter effectiveness is the quantity of surface area the bacteria can population and dependence on the bioload on the filters which has less to do with the quantity of fish compared to amount of food fed to the fish and the waste load the comes from it's breakdown either through the fish digesting it or the filter catching it directly. There's a lot of technique to this along with a certain margin or error or effective safety zone. When you first start the filters it has no biological capacity and goes through two growth stages before hitting maturity and developing homeostasis. (a great way to prestart or preload the filter before the fish are in the pond is just to pee in the pond one week ahead of time). The first bacteria develop in 3 days and begin converting NH4 to NO2 which then begins feeding the second population of bacteria which convert NO2 to NO3. Once both bacteria begin to grow they respond to the load on the filter. So if you progressively grow the load on a biofilter sustainably over time and avoid any rapid overloads then the bacteria on the filter media will grow thicker to meet the load. The real key is to avoid over feeding the fish. However there starts to become a point with these new ultra high performance biofilters where the filters capacity is so high that the pond can be stocked to very high levels of bioload supported by unnaturally high filtration performance levels. So that introduces a safety margin, where if the filter fails the pond start to go into a critical situation where the fish can die very quickly (within 2 hours) if life support fails. So then there's a measure of how a filter behaves if the pump fails and how long the pond can go without power. So even if you have a very powerful filter, that pushes you into a more dangerous zone. Some filters like undergravel filters and plants in the pond will continue to work in a emergency. Some filters can be backed up with a small air pump and keep going. Some filters like a bead filter when the pump stops will immediatly become anaerobic, the bacteria will die, and when the pump comes back on will crash the pond. My friend has a pond where she hung aquatic plants half way in the water and even if the filter fails those will always be aborbing nutrient. This guy also left out the critical aspect of plant filter, the ultimate biofilters because absorb all the nutrient as where bacteria filters just break them down but never eliminate them.
Wow that’s a lot to read here is my reply in sections. Biological filters can easily be measured by turnover rate the higher the turnover through a biological filter the higher its effectiveness although the size of the pond has a backwards effect on the filter so a 9000gal pond with 10 fish will be less reliant than a 900gal pond with the same 10 fish on the bio filter. And yes the surface area of the media is the biggest decider to what fish load it can handle. Don’t pee in your pond that’s stupid it will not help at all and could cause a lot of problems. I would just put the fish in and let the filter develop on its own if its sintered glass or ceramic media although if plastic media is used then I would put some fish in but not many to start the filter. But don’t add anything to start your pond like pee or ammonium nitrate it’s just pointless as it’s the fish that start the filter working anyway. I have seen situations where fish have died due to filter failure but only because the bakki shower fell in the pond seriously polluting the water. Otherwise most ponds would be good for a few days without pumps but should not feed the fish. The issue comes when the bacteria dies and pollutes the water which takes a long time and can be solved by not allowing stagnent filter water back to the pond. Never had much luck with plants I find that they create more problems than the solve in most cases especially if the mechanical filtration failed. Thanks for the comment Adam
lol I only just noticed your pond outside I must say in all the videos ive whached on youtube your set up is the best by far :) keep up the vids tnx again
good info - If I spend a little and I mean a little time out at my ponds the wife thinks I dont love her anymore. Its a tough way for me. I am a beginner at this so I was learning a lot from your video _ Thank You Adam and Please keep them coming-my best to you and yours
Hi Adam they have started my koi pond last Thursday so for they have taken out 120 ton or earth and rock out of the garden, pond now dug out steel and the two bottom drains will be going in today and the concrete base will be going in Friday Darren from absolute koi have been amazing with all his help. I will keep you up to date pond size will be 20ft long 10ft wide using proffi drum combo 50 and it will be heated . I will keep you up to date kevin from wales
ChRiSVII what costs is doing it twice, people build a small pond then want a big one. do it yourself and go big. A bloke quoted me over 20g. Built it for 6 with two windows, sieve, two beads, aerated bottom drain an skimmer
@@DeanMackenziebelldmb Totally agree, starting small is not a good idea. When I was selling aquatics I always told my customers to start with the largest fish tank they could accommodate and afford to avoid further expense and disappointment later.
ok mate thank you very much really nice setup love your ponds doing a great job keep up them good videos love to own some of your equipment thanks again steve
i just got my aem drum filter on a week ago. and its already cleared the fine particles out off the water. next step will be a bakki river. current setup is way overkill for my pond. BUT it allows me to feed the fish as I see fit :) drum into a nexus 320 with 300 liter k1 and bio chip. algram uv. skimmer to sieve and to a clover 4 chamber full of japan matts. pond 20.000 liter. and it is crystal clear
Thank again for the opportunity to to learn from you I have goldfish I have approximately seven goldfish and a 20 gallon tank I have two filters on it they're not really doing the job so I bought a canister filter and I'm going to leave one of all but hang on the back filters on for extra filtration. I learned a lot from you how about Go Fish and filtration. Even though k o I s are bigger gold fish they are in the Goldfish family they're just a different breed of goldfish.
Great video! Thanks for sharing your experience. I am planning on building a new pond in the summer and looking to keep it to day 15,000 litres to keep the running costs down while still have a volume of water that won’t be as exposed to large fluctuations as, say, a smaller pond. Got a second hand Cloverleaf CL3 which I am starting to think may have been a waste of money or, at least, the start of much more money being spent. What is your advice for the bakki shower (something I have been thinking about in conjunction with say a second hand Nexus 310/320) when during the winter months?
good video. i have the nexus 310. but its also filled to max with k1 and bio chips. I found the bio chip to be very effective. so I added 50 liters to the 300 liter k1. I have a sieve in front with a 200my sieve. pond is only 15.000liters but with a heavy fish load. really considered to replace the sieve with a drum filter. next year we will build a new pond at around 45.000 liters. I have thought of using my current pond as a big bio filter
Awsome i will look into the bio chip idea i have never used those. i would expect the nexus 310 to do very well on a 15,000litre pond. drums are great and having one before the nexus and just using the nexus as a biloogical filter is a good idea and many poeple do it. 45,000 liter is a big pond and will need top notch filtration although i would not use your current pond as a filter because the biological stages as with the river need to have fast moving water any dead spots will trigger unwanted bacteria and stagnation. Adam
Great videos and setup but...I have to ask.... how much is your monthly electric bill? Running all that equipment cannot be cheap. I dare to ask, how much have you spent on just the equipment you are currently using for each of your ponds?
What a fab fab video how long did it take you to learn all this knowledge about keeping Koi also about the filtration system ? i am thinking about building a new koi pond in my back garden with Rock waterfall and i would love your expert advise if possible on what are the best pumps to use also and filters to use, i thought the Nexus 320 was the best ? but now i see the Profidrum filters are the latest to have. Also should i have bottom drains in the pond ? i noticed that you do not recommend a pond deeper than five feet wht is this ? Do you do this for a living ie sell your fish, because i would love to drive up and meet you and have a good chat if that is ok with you. Kind regards Harry Welch.
Another great video Adam. I’m planning on building a quarantine system as part of my new build, so wondered if you could do a video that talks more about your quarantine system: 1. What runs your quarantines system and why (appreciate some of this was covered in this video). 2. Do you always treat your new fish through quarantine? And if so, what methodology do you use (ie time in system, treat types and lengths etc). Cheers Chris
Hi Chris, Thanks for the suggestion i will do a video on my QT and what i think makes a good Q Tank. Answer 1. my QT's both have drum filters that can handle a tank more than 10x the size and they both have a water turn over of under 30mins making them quite powerful filtration systems this is due to the stocking levels mostly. 2. new fish are first treated with salt and left for 2 weeks to see if they show any signs at this point the salt has gone. then i heat the pond up to 30DegC keep it there for 5 days then cool down for 5 days then back to 30DegC again for 7 days after that i treat with F & MG while the pond is cooling down then i know they don't have a thing on them. but i still don't move or sell them for at least another month but usually longer. Adam
Great info again Adam. Many thanks. I've said it before - I love your two bakki river/stream systems although to the uninitiated your river looks a bit murky in this vid (according to my mrs!!). I explained that's probably the bio film on the glass sides but can you confirm so she doesn't think I'm waffling. Regards as always, M
Thanks, Yes in summer it gets a bit of growth on the sides of the river so you cant see through it. its a shame as its nice to see the water flow but it is good for the water and it is a bad idea to clean it. it does clear up a bit in winter so you can see the water flowing again. Adam
Question about filters. I am currently doing a 6000 gallon pond build, and I am wondering if my filtration system will be capable of handling this pond. I am putting a DIY Bakki shower type filter on the pond. It will have 3 trays of 50 gallons of lava rock. This will be our main biological filtration for the pond but we are also putting summer around a 300 gallon bog filter on the pond as well. I believe this will be able to filter the entire Pond as we are putting a 8000 gallon per hour pump on Baka shower and a 7000 gallon per hour pump on the bog filter. What do you guys think?
Stick a Nexus 320 outside south facing garden and watch the performance then, leaves, and all other CraP IN IT, YOUR POOL is inside and is no comparison to an outside setup.
That Nexus 220 is on an outside pool and its S**t. I hate the Nexus filter. my indoor pond just has the drum and River and beads although i am removing the beads shortly. Adam
Is the (excessive) filtration needed to keep the fish alive or visible? I'd love a Koi pond, but the equipment and running costs put me off. If I had an 8,000 litre pond with 4 Koi and some gold fish (Koi snacks) in it, could I reduce the filtration burden?
Yeah, that guy is just obviously flood with cash and bought the biggest thing he could find. With 8000 liters you can manage with homemade filter. Look for some exemple on youtube.
Your videos are so informative, I'm so glad I found them. I have a small pond at the moment with an assortment of fish that I inherited from a friend, this summer I plan to build a bigger pond for Koi and Goldfish and I am trying to get to grips with the various filtration options, there is so much information available some of which is contradictory however you explain it very clearly. Currently I am at the design stage and trying to decide whether to include a bottom drain for an external dry pump or to use a submersible pump with its own cage, I am thinking the bottom drain would be a problem for small fish as they might get sucked in, can you advise what other factors I should consider for this decision?
I would always use a bottom drain. The little fish thing is an issue I had with my 1000gal tank but that is because I left the gap too wide I should have made it small in the first place when I made it smaller that issue was solved and it did not affect flow rate. A few reasons why I always chose bottom drains - - They allow the water to move with a motion the pushes all debris to the drain so the tank does not get full of waste and require cleaning. - Less sharp objects for the fish to hurt them self on especially if they are flicking for some reason. - They look a lot better as the pipework etc is not visible inside the tank. - You can have them fitted with air diffuser. - Because the pump is after the filter it will only pump clean water which has an advantage for water quality as debris that goes through the pump gets blended into finer particles that a filter cannot remove. There may be more reasons but those are some reasons why I like bottom drains. Adam
Adam if I have a gravity fed filter but want a shower filter as my bio filter do I have to run the gravity filter into the shower filter or can I run then seperetly with serperate pumps ? Though I’d ask as yours always seem to run from mechanical to biological cheers mate
excellent video....... very explanatory..... can you help with some advice adam..... next year im doing a total pond upgrade.. the pond will be 1500g and im wondering about filtration etc... Our current finances are extremely though...... so any advice....cheers.
Hi Adam...quick question for you. I have a spindrifter bottom drain on my pond which is 4 feet deep. I seem to get lots of bubbes on the surface that dont seem to burst? i dont think it is foam but they collect in the corners. I am running an olympic wide mouth skimmer which catches some. Any ideas? Thanks Ross...awsome videos by the way they are so useful...
The only thing i can think of that would cause that is the food that you feed the fish or some tree in the area that is polluting the water. Thanks Adam
Hi I have got a nexus 220 pump fed I am putting a bakki on my pond I noticed you got a pump from the outlet of the nexus to the bakki this is what I want to do what size pump is it
it depends on the budget i would get a drum filter and a 18,000L/H pump and a double wide bakki shower that would be the perfect system in my opinion but the cost would be something around £7,000. alternatively you could do something similar to the outdoor pond with the larger nexus 320 and a shower although i think you might be pushing that setup to the limit so you might need a sieve for a second small shower to be safe. Adam
I have a seive, econobead 100 and then a large bakki shower with BHM and crystal bio. My issue has been the bead needing a lot of attention early in the season and like you say, a lack of biological filtration. My question is do you think that the EB100 would work better biologically and mechanically if the beads were swapped for K1micro? I have read that people get way better results with K1 micro in the bead filter and much better flow rates and less channelling.
k1 turns a bead filter from a poor biological filter but very good mechanical to a poor biological and poor mechanical filter its not a good idea to swap. i have been told that it works great i think those people are lying. no i have never tested it in a bead but static k1 has very poor biological affects and not the best mechanical so i don't see how that would be different from k1 in a bead. plus you have a bakki shower so you need the mechanical of the bead rather than biological of it. similar to how the pond with the nexus and shower needs the mechanical of the nexus and it does not matter about the biological effects of it because that's the showers job and because a bead is better mechanical than the nexus that setup would benefit from one.. Adam
+Adam Julyan (aljonline) That is really interesting, thanks. So you don't believe what EA say about it? All the blurb says much better biological (larger surface area) than beads and as good mechanically with improved flow rates, but you think differently. I can kind of see both sides to it. I wonder how the bead filter from EA which is full of K1 micro performs.
k1 needs the constant movement that the air pump on the nexus filter provides in a bead filter it wont have that unless you clean it daily or even twice daily then you might get better biological results than beads. however you wont get as good mechanical not even close i can for sure guarantee that because that would be the same as a nexus and if you put your bead after a nexus you would need to clean it more than what you do after the sieve filter that is how much dirt gets through a nexus. i have thoroughly tested k1 and can tell you its useless when its static. Adam
+Adam Julyan (aljonline) I don't doubt you know your stuff and am more inclined to listen to what you say than the blurb. I just wonder if the K1 micro is better in a bead setup mechanically and biologically than the larger K1. They say the K1 micro is specifically designed for bead filters and traps much more dirt when packed in than the larger K1 in a moving bed setup. Also the nexus is not a pressurised system which would allow the K1 micro to pack very tightly together, especially if a large amount of media was put in.
My fish pond water just got absolutely clear but last week I lost too cause I had for the past 3 years all the sudden but the water was green you could not see one inch into the water so I changed half of it and I put in the Prime
Hi, No you cannot the more the better if your k1 is moving about easily then you have the correct air pump if it stops and groups together for a bit before getting back on its way then you need a bigger air pump. the limiting factor is the pressure on pipework in that case a 150 is about the limit. I would always use the max air pump so for a 220/210 = 130 for a 320/310 = 150. if your k1 moves about like the k1 on the nexus in the video then dont worry about it. if its slower consider getting a bigger air pump if its faster then you have a powerful air pump and thats fine. Adam
No i dont shut any ponds in winter it does not really get cold enough in england to need to do that. also the outdoor tank that i need to keep warm are insulated very well and heated. Adam
can you make a video about ammonia please Adam, or rather how to remove it, i have heard of something called zeolite stones...your opinion would be appreciated
if you need advice on filter media get in touch with your local sewage works they use clinker,they informed me that the slower the water tickles threw it the better
That is because the water in a sewage works will only go through the filter once but in a pond it goes through the filter over and over so its better off going through faster and more often. Adam
Sand filters are good mechanical but they have limited flow rates and are hard to clean just to name a few of the issues with this type of filter. Adam
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Very informative Adam. I am looking to build another Koi pond with a viewing window.I really find your explanations very useful. Thank you very much for uploading, they have given me something to work with.
Although mechanical filtration is measured by and related the size of the pond and the turn over rate, biological filtration is not dependent upon turnover rate and is not related to the size of the pond. Biological filtration has to do with the load rate on the filter and it is adapative, technique has a lot to do with it. Biological filters respond to load. So the measure of a biological filter effectiveness is the quantity of surface area the bacteria can population and dependence on the bioload on the filters which has less to do with the quantity of fish compared to amount of food fed to the fish and the waste load the comes from it's breakdown either through the fish digesting it or the filter catching it directly. There's a lot of technique to this along with a certain margin or error or effective safety zone. When you first start the filters it has no biological capacity and goes through two growth stages before hitting maturity and developing homeostasis. (a great way to prestart or preload the filter before the fish are in the pond is just to pee in the pond one week ahead of time). The first bacteria develop in 3 days and begin converting NH4 to NO2 which then begins feeding the second population of bacteria which convert NO2 to NO3. Once both bacteria begin to grow they respond to the load on the filter. So if you progressively grow the load on a biofilter sustainably over time and avoid any rapid overloads then the bacteria on the filter media will grow thicker to meet the load. The real key is to avoid over feeding the fish. However there starts to become a point with these new ultra high performance biofilters where the filters capacity is so high that the pond can be stocked to very high levels of bioload supported by unnaturally high filtration performance levels. So that introduces a safety margin, where if the filter fails the pond start to go into a critical situation where the fish can die very quickly (within 2 hours) if life support fails. So then there's a measure of how a filter behaves if the pump fails and how long the pond can go without power. So even if you have a very powerful filter, that pushes you into a more dangerous zone. Some filters like undergravel filters and plants in the pond will continue to work in a emergency. Some filters can be backed up with a small air pump and keep going. Some filters like a bead filter when the pump stops will immediatly become anaerobic, the bacteria will die, and when the pump comes back on will crash the pond. My friend has a pond where she hung aquatic plants half way in the water and even if the filter fails those will always be aborbing nutrient. This guy also left out the critical aspect of plant filter, the ultimate biofilters because absorb all the nutrient as where bacteria filters just break them down but never eliminate them.
Wow that’s a lot to read here is my reply in sections.
Biological filters can easily be measured by turnover rate the higher the turnover through a biological filter the higher its effectiveness although the size of the pond has a backwards effect on the filter so a 9000gal pond with 10 fish will be less reliant than a 900gal pond with the same 10 fish on the bio filter. And yes the surface area of the media is the biggest decider to what fish load it can handle.
Don’t pee in your pond that’s stupid it will not help at all and could cause a lot of problems. I would just put the fish in and let the filter develop on its own if its sintered glass or ceramic media although if plastic media is used then I would put some fish in but not many to start the filter. But don’t add anything to start your pond like pee or ammonium nitrate it’s just pointless as it’s the fish that start the filter working anyway.
I have seen situations where fish have died due to filter failure but only because the bakki shower fell in the pond seriously polluting the water. Otherwise most ponds would be good for a few days without pumps but should not feed the fish. The issue comes when the bacteria dies and pollutes the water which takes a long time and can be solved by not allowing stagnent filter water back to the pond.
Never had much luck with plants I find that they create more problems than the solve in most cases especially if the mechanical filtration failed.
Thanks for the comment
Adam
lol I only just noticed your pond outside I must say in all the videos ive whached on youtube your set up is the best by far :) keep up the vids tnx again
good info - If I spend a little and I mean a little time out at my ponds the wife thinks I dont love her anymore. Its a tough way for me. I am a beginner at this so I was learning a lot from your video _ Thank You Adam and Please keep them coming-my best to you and yours
Thanks for the great comment.
Adam
Hi Adam they have started my koi pond last Thursday so for they have taken out 120 ton or earth and rock out of the garden, pond now dug out steel and the two bottom drains will be going in today and the concrete base will be going in Friday Darren from absolute koi have been amazing with all his help.
I will keep you up to date
pond size will be 20ft long 10ft wide using proffi drum combo 50 and it will be heated .
I will keep you up to date
kevin from wales
This guy must be absolutely loaded!
ChRiSVII what costs is doing it twice, people build a small pond then want a big one. do it yourself and go big. A bloke quoted me over 20g. Built it for 6 with two windows, sieve, two beads, aerated bottom drain an skimmer
@@DeanMackenziebelldmb Totally agree, starting small is not a good idea. When I was selling aquatics I always told my customers to start with the largest fish tank they could accommodate and afford to avoid further expense and disappointment later.
ok mate thank you very much really nice setup love your ponds doing a great job keep up them good videos love to own some of your equipment thanks again steve
Really interesting buddy , thanks a lot and keep them coming .
i just got my aem drum filter on a week ago. and its already cleared the fine particles out off the water.
next step will be a bakki river.
current setup is way overkill for my pond. BUT it allows me to feed the fish as I see fit :)
drum into a nexus 320 with 300 liter k1 and bio chip. algram uv.
skimmer to sieve and to a clover 4 chamber full of japan matts.
pond 20.000 liter. and it is crystal clear
Thank again for the opportunity to to learn from you I have goldfish I have approximately seven goldfish and a 20 gallon tank I have two filters on it they're not really doing the job so I bought a canister filter and I'm going to leave one of all but hang on the back filters on for extra filtration. I learned a lot from you how about Go Fish and filtration. Even though k o I s are bigger gold fish they are in the Goldfish family they're just a different breed of goldfish.
Dude, your water is dirty because your tank is WAY too small for 7 goldfish. You need at least 20 gallons BY goldfish.
Keep up the good work my friend
Great video! Thanks for sharing your experience. I am planning on building a new pond in the summer and looking to keep it to day 15,000 litres to keep the running costs down while still have a volume of water that won’t be as exposed to large fluctuations as, say, a smaller pond. Got a second hand Cloverleaf CL3 which I am starting to think may have been a waste of money or, at least, the start of much more money being spent.
What is your advice for the bakki shower (something I have been thinking about in conjunction with say a second hand Nexus 310/320) when during the winter months?
good video. i have the nexus 310. but its also filled to max with k1 and bio chips. I found the bio chip to be very effective. so I added 50 liters to the 300 liter k1.
I have a sieve in front with a 200my sieve.
pond is only 15.000liters but with a heavy fish load. really considered to replace the sieve with a drum filter.
next year we will build a new pond at around 45.000 liters. I have thought of using my current pond as a big bio filter
Awsome i will look into the bio chip idea i have never used those. i would expect the nexus 310 to do very well on a 15,000litre pond.
drums are great and having one before the nexus and just using the nexus as a biloogical filter is a good idea and many poeple do it.
45,000 liter is a big pond and will need top notch filtration although i would not use your current pond as a filter because the biological stages as with the river need to have fast moving water any dead spots will trigger unwanted bacteria and stagnation.
Adam
Great videos and setup but...I have to ask.... how much is your monthly electric bill? Running all that equipment cannot be cheap.
I dare to ask, how much have you spent on just the equipment you are currently using for each of your ponds?
I find pond filtration more expensive than Gold and most of the cheap stuff poor quality. Great advice thanks.
What a fab fab video how long did it take you to learn all this knowledge about keeping Koi also about the filtration system ? i am thinking about building a new koi pond in my back garden with Rock waterfall and i would love your expert advise if possible on what are the best pumps to use also and filters to use, i thought the Nexus 320 was the best ? but now i see the Profidrum filters are the latest to have.
Also should i have bottom drains in the pond ? i noticed that you do not recommend a pond deeper than five feet wht is this ?
Do you do this for a living ie sell your fish, because i would love to drive up and meet you and have a good chat if that is ok with you.
Kind regards Harry Welch.
Another great video Adam. I’m planning on building a quarantine system as part of my new build, so wondered if you could do a video that talks more about your quarantine system:
1. What runs your quarantines system and why (appreciate some of this was covered in this video).
2. Do you always treat your new fish through quarantine? And if so, what methodology do you use (ie time in system, treat types and lengths etc).
Cheers Chris
Hi Chris,
Thanks for the suggestion i will do a video on my QT and what i think makes a good Q Tank.
Answer
1. my QT's both have drum filters that can handle a tank more than 10x the size and they both have a water turn over of under 30mins making them quite powerful filtration systems this is due to the stocking levels mostly.
2. new fish are first treated with salt and left for 2 weeks to see if they show any signs at this point the salt has gone. then i heat the pond up to 30DegC keep it there for 5 days then cool down for 5 days then back to 30DegC again for 7 days after that i treat with F & MG while the pond is cooling down then i know they don't have a thing on them. but i still don't move or sell them for at least another month but usually longer.
Adam
Adam Julyan that’s awesome, thanks Adam and I look forward to the QT video 😁👍🏻
Did you have your house built for the ponds and filters Adam, very interesting video 👍
Great info again Adam. Many thanks. I've said it before - I love your two bakki river/stream systems although to the uninitiated your river looks a bit murky in this vid (according to my mrs!!). I explained that's probably the bio film on the glass sides but can you confirm so she doesn't think I'm waffling. Regards as always, M
Thanks, Yes in summer it gets a bit of growth on the sides of the river so you cant see through it. its a shame as its nice to see the water flow but it is good for the water and it is a bad idea to clean it. it does clear up a bit in winter so you can see the water flowing again.
Adam
Question about filters. I am currently doing a 6000 gallon pond build, and I am wondering if my filtration system will be capable of handling this pond. I am putting a DIY Bakki shower type filter on the pond. It will have 3 trays of 50 gallons of lava rock. This will be our main biological filtration for the pond but we are also putting summer around a 300 gallon bog filter on the pond as well. I believe this will be able to filter the entire Pond as we are putting a 8000 gallon per hour pump on Baka shower and a 7000 gallon per hour pump on the bog filter. What do you guys think?
Stick a Nexus 320 outside south facing garden and watch the performance then, leaves, and all other CraP IN IT, YOUR POOL is inside and is no comparison to an outside setup.
That Nexus 220 is on an outside pool and its S**t. I hate the Nexus filter. my indoor pond just has the drum and River and beads although i am removing the beads shortly.
Adam
Great info. . . Thanks for sharing!
Do you have solar panels, I can't imagine what your power bill is.. I love your ponds . Thanks for the videos.
Very beautiful!
Is the (excessive) filtration needed to keep the fish alive or visible? I'd love a Koi pond, but the equipment and running costs put me off. If I had an 8,000 litre pond with 4 Koi and some gold fish (Koi snacks) in it, could I reduce the filtration burden?
Yeah, that guy is just obviously flood with cash and bought the biggest thing he could find. With 8000 liters you can manage with homemade filter.
Look for some exemple on youtube.
Your videos are so informative, I'm so glad I found them. I have a small pond at the moment with an assortment of fish that I inherited from a friend, this summer I plan to build a bigger pond for Koi and Goldfish and I am trying to get to grips with the various filtration options, there is so much information available some of which is contradictory however you explain it very clearly. Currently I am at the design stage and trying to decide whether to include a bottom drain for an external dry pump or to use a submersible pump with its own cage, I am thinking the bottom drain would be a problem for small fish as they might get sucked in, can you advise what other factors I should consider for this decision?
I would always use a bottom drain.
The little fish thing is an issue I had with my 1000gal tank but that is because I left the gap too wide I should have made it small in the first place when I made it smaller that issue was solved and it did not affect flow rate.
A few reasons why I always chose bottom drains -
- They allow the water to move with a motion the pushes all debris to the drain so the tank does not get full of waste and require cleaning.
- Less sharp objects for the fish to hurt them self on especially if they are flicking for some reason.
- They look a lot better as the pipework etc is not visible inside the tank.
- You can have them fitted with air diffuser.
- Because the pump is after the filter it will only pump clean water which has an advantage for water quality as debris that goes through the pump gets blended into finer particles that a filter cannot remove.
There may be more reasons but those are some reasons why I like bottom drains.
Adam
Thanks for that info, so does your bottom drain flow under gravity to your bead filter then pumped to the drum filter?
pwfk I was thinking about doing that also but using a shower drain and pvc to keep costs down. Just the pump at the end of filter going back to pond.
Adam if I have a gravity fed filter but want a shower filter as my bio filter do I have to run the gravity filter into the shower filter or can I run then seperetly with serperate pumps ? Though I’d ask as yours always seem to run from mechanical to biological cheers mate
excellent video.......
very explanatory.....
can you help with some advice adam.....
next year im doing a total pond upgrade..
the pond will be 1500g and im wondering about filtration etc...
Our current finances are extremely though......
so any advice....cheers.
koi breeding
Hi Adam...quick question for you. I have a spindrifter bottom drain on my pond which is 4 feet deep. I seem to get lots of bubbes on the surface that dont seem to burst? i dont think it is foam but they collect in the corners. I am running an olympic wide mouth skimmer which catches some. Any ideas? Thanks Ross...awsome videos by the way they are so useful...
The only thing i can think of that would cause that is the food that you feed the fish or some tree in the area that is polluting the water.
Thanks
Adam
Certainly got a great set up there ....enquired re upgrade on the 210 to 220 ..its £280 so may consider for next season ...Dave
Thanks. price is about right. the more time i spend with that nexus the more i realise that the upgrade is worth it.
Adam
Adam Julyan is that a piranha
Hi I have got a nexus 220
pump fed
I am putting a bakki on my pond I noticed you got a pump from the outlet of the nexus to the bakki this is what I want to do what size pump is it
good setup carnt emagine how much your set up is and u sure now your ponds whot filter would u rekkon for a 22 thousand liter pond thanks again
it depends on the budget i would get a drum filter and a 18,000L/H pump and a double wide bakki shower that would be the perfect system in my opinion but the cost would be something around £7,000.
alternatively you could do something similar to the outdoor pond with the larger nexus 320 and a shower although i think you might be pushing that setup to the limit so you might need a sieve for a second small shower to be safe.
Adam
What do you think about adding an aquaponic set up from it
Drum and shower would suit that fine, and every 2 hours to turn over the pond is fine
You've got another fish in there that's not a Koi ( Not the Sturgeon) it's about the size of the Koi but silver. What type fish is It? Thanks
Justin Stuart looks like a Rudd
@@2010wembley Looks like a bream to me
Jason Howell yeah I think youre right looking again. At one point it looks like red fins
@@2010wembley Yes sometimes you will get reddish fins but of course it could be a highbred
I have a seive, econobead 100 and then a large bakki shower with BHM and crystal bio. My issue has been the bead needing a lot of attention early in the season and like you say, a lack of biological filtration. My question is do you think that the EB100 would work better biologically and mechanically if the beads were swapped for K1micro? I have read that people get way better results with K1 micro in the bead filter and much better flow rates and less channelling.
k1 turns a bead filter from a poor biological filter but very good mechanical to a poor biological and poor mechanical filter its not a good idea to swap. i have been told that it works great i think those people are lying. no i have never tested it in a bead but static k1 has very poor biological affects and not the best mechanical so i don't see how that would be different from k1 in a bead. plus you have a bakki shower so you need the mechanical of the bead rather than biological of it. similar to how the pond with the nexus and shower needs the mechanical of the nexus and it does not matter about the biological effects of it because that's the showers job and because a bead is better mechanical than the nexus that setup would benefit from one..
Adam
+Adam Julyan (aljonline) That is really interesting, thanks. So you don't believe what EA say about it? All the blurb says much better biological (larger surface area) than beads and as good mechanically with improved flow rates, but you think differently. I can kind of see both sides to it. I wonder how the bead filter from EA which is full of K1 micro performs.
k1 needs the constant movement that the air pump on the nexus filter provides in a bead filter it wont have that unless you clean it daily or even twice daily then you might get better biological results than beads. however you wont get as good mechanical not even close i can for sure guarantee that because that would be the same as a nexus and if you put your bead after a nexus you would need to clean it more than what you do after the sieve filter that is how much dirt gets through a nexus. i have thoroughly tested k1 and can tell you its useless when its static.
Adam
+Adam Julyan (aljonline) I don't doubt you know your stuff and am more inclined to listen to what you say than the blurb. I just wonder if the K1 micro is better in a bead setup mechanically and biologically than the larger K1. They say the K1 micro is specifically designed for bead filters and traps much more dirt when packed in than the larger K1 in a moving bed setup. Also the nexus is not a pressurised system which would allow the K1 micro to pack very tightly together, especially if a large amount of media was put in.
hi Adam I'm just curious what type of media do you use in the down waterfall drip? I'm thinking of doing one for my pond
The shower has bakki houise media and the river has siporax. both are ceramic media
My fish pond water just got absolutely clear but last week I lost too cause I had for the past 3 years all the sudden but the water was green you could not see one inch into the water so I changed half of it and I put in the Prime
Hi Adam, can you have too much air turning over the K1 in the Bio side of a Nexus?
Hi, No you cannot the more the better if your k1 is moving about easily then you have the correct air pump if it stops and groups together for a bit before getting back on its way then you need a bigger air pump. the limiting factor is the pressure on pipework in that case a 150 is about the limit. I would always use the max air pump so for a 220/210 = 130 for a 320/310 = 150.
if your k1 moves about like the k1 on the nexus in the video then dont worry about it. if its slower consider getting a bigger air pump if its faster then you have a powerful air pump and thats fine.
Adam
+Adam Julyan (aljonline) Thanks for the quick reply 🖒
ko
You extended your pond? How about on Winter do you shut it down?
No i dont shut any ponds in winter it does not really get cold enough in england to need to do that. also the outdoor tank that i need to keep warm are insulated very well and heated.
Adam
can you make a video about ammonia please Adam, or rather how to remove it, i have heard of something called zeolite stones...your opinion would be appreciated
i think if you added air stones to your bakki river you would have ultimate filteration ;)
WOW! 😳👍🏻😃
if you need advice on filter media get in touch with your local sewage works they use clinker,they informed me that the slower the water tickles threw it the better
That is because the water in a sewage works will only go through the filter once but in a pond it goes through the filter over and over so its better off going through faster and more often.
Adam
hi adam you are talking about single pass systems these days they use a loop system or have several trickle filters in series great set up by the way
Why not just get 100 liters (or more) of k1 media in drum with good aeration and use that as the biological filter?
There is a version of the drum that has that (not those ones i dont have the room) mine would just put all the k1 down the drain.
Adam
I'm sure a Aqueron Hang on the back filter with ceramic rings would've done it, "Drop the mic" :-)
Holy shit you have a lot of ponds
Where did you get that 1300 liter pond??
But the sand filter should do an excellent job of mechanical filtration.
Sand filters are good mechanical but they have limited flow rates and are hard to clean just to name a few of the issues with this type of filter.
Adam
hi. Do u have to clean the bakki shower
No never
Thanks mate
You might have to clean the spraybar if used as a stand alone filter
What is on top of the bakki river filter tanks?
Auto feeders
Hi, not got any trees near by so dont think it will be that...i am feeding hikari gold food...
This guy literally builds a fortress for his fish in case the koipocalypse breaks out
Best to be prepared :)
your electric bill must cost you a fortune. Nice video though
Great advice even if you are a shut in that licks his fish when no one is looking!
the 220 isent capable for mechanical unless you want to clear t it each day
True
Hi Adam do you sell koi .
thats alot of money invested there dude....
Got to be a least 400 pounds a month running costs, and im not including heating
Is this simply a hobby or are you breeding & selling fish?
It's a hobby
Adam
your filtration probably cost more than my house, garage and 3 1/2 acres it sits on.