How many washers are you using? At 4:31 you say everyone uses two 8mm washers. At 4:36 you say you need four. And I can only see you mounting one at each screw. So how many is needed and how thick are they?
Screaming thank u from florida! I had my 535i at various shops n they dunno what it was. U randomly popped up. Going to try this. Was going to trash my car cuz this noise
The video was very helpful for me to remove the rattle from my turbo. For the rear turbo I was able to adjust the tie rod comfortably while for the front I added, as in your video, 3 washers. The wastgates must be adjusted according to the BMW manual, it must be closed at a vacuum of 5.9 inHg. Thank you very much for helping me BRO!
@@trackmedixuk The manual operations to do are shown in the video. To adjust the wastgate, set the depression of -5.9 and then check that the plate is closed well in the stop. However, the plate must be able to rotate by hand.
how did you determine the size of the shim for the front turbo? Even though the rear is much easier to adjust for me, it's still a question of how much clearance to set. Leave a little for expansion or snug. Great video and thanks for sharing!
Changing actuator position will cause the wastegate to open and close at a slightly different time . Aka building boost when it shouldn't be or not building boost when it should . Little adjustments might be ok but I would try not to adjust the actuator arms TOO much. Just my opinion. Great video man
Yep very true, should have mentioned in the video not to tighten the rod TOO much or your wastegate can even get stuck open. 2-3 turns is fine though, perhaps a little more. Thanks for pointing that out.
That's not how it works. Waste gates regulate exhust flow through the turbo. If waste is open exhust will flow around turbine and go out the exhust. If the waste gates are closed the exhust will flow through the turbine and force it to spin which creates boost. If the waste gates rattle that means they are not firmly closed which would allow exhust to flow around the turbine which would cause the turbo to make less than the disired amount of boost. The purpose of the bov is to allow the charged air from the turbo to vent to atmosphere when the throttle is closed during a gear shift in a manual car or when the driver takes their foot of the pedal in any car. If the air wasn't vented that pressurized air would have no other place to go but to go back through the turbo which is harmful to the turbo because it's being forced backwards and will increase the time it takes to build boost again in-between shifts. Bovs and waste gates seem counter inutive at first because the car is loosing energy by venting charged air and exhust to atmosphere but when they work properly they actually help spool. So no they can't be disabled with out harming the car. If you are intimidated by this stuff I will buy the car from you.
I hope you're still active on here cause there's barely any videos on Right Hand Drive n54 wastegate fixes, so thank you for making this! I'm trying to turn that actuator nut on mine (on the rear turbo) and it just won't budge. It's stuck. Hands are sore from trying. Sprayed some wd40 on it and it still won't budge. Any advice? Also, you have to turn it towards the sky to loosen it, right?
I have a RHD that I finally adjusted yesterday. My nut was fine but I didn't want to take the downpipes off again so I ended up taking the circlip off the end of the actuator rod with a pick, and turned the end of the rod by hand. Was able to get the clip off from underneath through the wheel well, and adjusted it and put the clip back on from the engine bay. @DarioPerazzini
@@DarioPerazzini Any word on what brand is a good longlasting one? The Chinesium ones look tempting for only $900 could be a good option for people that are not ready to go single just yet and only need a few months to a few years of usage.
@@Nathan-gj8ch I haven't looked into the aftermarket options, I ended up replacing just the flappers, have a vid about it...but if you're going to go to all the effort of taking em out I'd probably get something better...it's a lot of work to remove. If they're not leaking and just rattling and your going single...I'd just live with it haha
this is not adding turbo lag, it’s reducing it. he is tightening them, not loosening. added turbo lag comes from the software such from MHD or factory where it holds the wastegates open, away from anything so it doesn’t rattle which induces lag
@@eninety every form post on n54 forums and on beamer forums says that the fix does indeed ad lag. Also when you apply the mhd fix it tells you that there is a potential lagg issue www.n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1974
You mind elaborating on that comment? I'm jist getting my car back up and going....I purchased an msd81 dme and the guy left the mhd stage 2+ tune on it. Ive already done a few things...colder plugs...upgraded coils... index 12's aluminum charge pipe...and having my catless downpipes installed this week. When I first start the car in the morning....it has a slight wastegate rattle...for maybe 30 seconds then goes away. Im wondering if there would be any point in trying to adjust them
Yeah this car is only for diy people Look at my maintenance expenses All from ebay and my car is working perfect. 120700 miles oil change 09/19/2017 120700 miles break rotors/pads 09/2017 121000 miles aliment 09/29/2017 123000 oil change 12/01/2017 ~> 123000 coolant change $30 123000 valve cleaning $40 123000 oil housing new gasket $20 123000 air mass sensor cleaning 123000 serpentine belt 01/2018 $30 125000 abs hydraulic pump $160 125000 coolant reservoir $30 125000 hood struts shocks 01/2018 126000 transmission fluid 03/2018 $60 12700 0il pan gasket $55 12700 Motor mounts $71 127000 Power steering fluid $26 127000 front sway bar ends links $27 127000 clock spring spiral $36 06/18 127000 front right strut mount $25 06/18 127000 car wax 06/18 127000 brake fluid 06/18 $17 255/35r18 tires 134000 spark plugs & coils 03/19$130$35 134000 radiator 04/19 $75 Front struts and shocks $123 Rear struts $35
Yep, i agree. E91 2007 car, I'm in hot weather Hong Kong, the plastic parts seem to have become brittle to split causing all kinds of leaks here and only at 90k miles. But i love the car, working as a building contractor, when it goes it's tonnes of fun !
Tony Peacock lol, I am here to tell you that.....you are 100% right. The e9x in general is a cheaply made super expensive chassis. Add a n54 and...enjoy bankruptcy. My n54 is now my ex’s. LOL good luck! I ran as fast as I could from both
You are the GOAT! I was just about to buy new turbskis and did this fix voila no more rattle can sound. Thanks my bruva!
How many washers are you using? At 4:31 you say everyone uses two 8mm washers. At 4:36 you say you need four. And I can only see you mounting one at each screw. So how many is needed and how thick are they?
Gotta say great job and thanks for the hard work of videoing this job. must have taken a lot of extra work and time!
Screaming thank u from florida! I had my 535i at various shops n they dunno what it was. U randomly popped up. Going to try this. Was going to trash my car cuz this noise
The video was very helpful for me to remove the rattle from my turbo. For the rear turbo I was able to adjust the tie rod comfortably while for the front I added, as in your video, 3 washers. The wastgates must be adjusted according to the BMW manual, it must be closed at a vacuum of 5.9 inHg. Thank you very much for helping me BRO!
How do you do this ?
@@trackmedixuk The manual operations to do are shown in the video. To adjust the wastgate, set the depression of -5.9 and then check that the plate is closed well in the stop. However, the plate must be able to rotate by hand.
Great video, thanks for the sound clip of the rattle - can you do a video after the adjustment of the wastegates? =)
how did you determine the size of the shim for the front turbo? Even though the rear is much easier to adjust for me, it's still a question of how much clearance to set. Leave a little for expansion or snug. Great video and thanks for sharing!
Changing actuator position will cause the wastegate to open and close at a slightly different time . Aka building boost when it shouldn't be or not building boost when it should . Little adjustments might be ok but I would try not to adjust the actuator arms TOO much. Just my opinion. Great video man
Yep very true, should have mentioned in the video not to tighten the rod TOO much or your wastegate can even get stuck open. 2-3 turns is fine though, perhaps a little more. Thanks for pointing that out.
Hello, apart the fact that's anoying, will it cause any malfunction on long terme use? Thx
Are you sure you can adjust the front turbo waste gate without removing the downpipe etc?
hello is this doable with electric wastegaate i have a n63tu 2017 and it drives me crazy
goodafternoon,all does anyone know the size of that “12mm” bolt that was being “backed” out?
thank you
Currently trying this today in good old England with are perfect weather🤣 it’s an absolute nightmare if you’ve got RHD
how long of a spring did you use on the rear wastegate rod
30ff FTW
What are 8 mil washer? M8 washer or a 8mm diameter washer?
What size is the actuator bolt???
If i got loose waste gates would i have turbo lag?
What are those tension springs called that you used on the wastegate? Thank you.
Might be a technical name, but I know them as expansion springs.
They are also known as extension springs
So new to the bmw world and turbos in general but, can I disable the waste gates after getting my charge pipe and bov installed?
That's not how it works. Waste gates regulate exhust flow through the turbo. If waste is open exhust will flow around turbine and go out the exhust. If the waste gates are closed the exhust will flow through the turbine and force it to spin which creates boost. If the waste gates rattle that means they are not firmly closed which would allow exhust to flow around the turbine which would cause the turbo to make less than the disired amount of boost. The purpose of the bov is to allow the charged air from the turbo to vent to atmosphere when the throttle is closed during a gear shift in a manual car or when the driver takes their foot of the pedal in any car. If the air wasn't vented that pressurized air would have no other place to go but to go back through the turbo which is harmful to the turbo because it's being forced backwards and will increase the time it takes to build boost again in-between shifts. Bovs and waste gates seem counter inutive at first because the car is loosing energy by venting charged air and exhust to atmosphere but when they work properly they actually help spool. So no they can't be disabled with out harming the car. If you are intimidated by this stuff I will buy the car from you.
😂
Can we get a sound clip of it?
Watch at about 15 seconds.
Jon Moore a sound clip of it fixed and appreciate the content man 🙏
Could you shim both waste gate flaps and not use the spring?
Sure, spring is just in case...it's the flapper that does the main rattling
Where can I find a spring like that?
Hardware store
It is possible to change the wastegate without replacing the turbos ?
You can change the flappers and linkage which helps some, I have a video on it, keep in mind it's a mission to get them out.
@@DarioPerazzini Ok thank you !
But Can i drive with the wastegate rattle ? Or should i fix it quickly ?
@@TheFragSoul It's fine for a while until you get the 30ff boost leak error code.
@@DarioPerazzini what is 30FC/NOT PRESENT CODE
@@kucickula Boost leak, heaps on google man.
I hope you're still active on here cause there's barely any videos on Right Hand Drive n54 wastegate fixes, so thank you for making this! I'm trying to turn that actuator nut on mine (on the rear turbo) and it just won't budge. It's stuck. Hands are sore from trying. Sprayed some wd40 on it and it still won't budge. Any advice? Also, you have to turn it towards the sky to loosen it, right?
All good. Yeah anti-clockwise. If it's rusted that's a different problem but otherwise it should pop loose with the right leverage.
I have a RHD that I finally adjusted yesterday. My nut was fine but I didn't want to take the downpipes off again so I ended up taking the circlip off the end of the actuator rod with a pick, and turned the end of the rod by hand. Was able to get the clip off from underneath through the wheel well, and adjusted it and put the clip back on from the engine bay. @DarioPerazzini
Very smart guy. Great video..
Hi guys got Same Problem Do I have to fix it or i can drive like that
did you go like that with her or what did you do?
This video is making me dizzy af
😆
Thank you sir! Nice and easy information.
By adjusting the actuators you've actually added turbo lag that's not really a fix in my opinion I guess I'll just order some new turbos
There's no noticeable change, it's a very small adjustment. If you do order new ones get aftermarket as all stock ones rattle after 80,000 or so kms
@@DarioPerazzini Any word on what brand is a good longlasting one? The Chinesium ones look tempting for only $900 could be a good option for people that are not ready to go single just yet and only need a few months to a few years of usage.
@@Nathan-gj8ch I haven't looked into the aftermarket options, I ended up replacing just the flappers, have a vid about it...but if you're going to go to all the effort of taking em out I'd probably get something better...it's a lot of work to remove. If they're not leaking and just rattling and your going single...I'd just live with it haha
this is not adding turbo lag, it’s reducing it. he is tightening them, not loosening. added turbo lag comes from the software such from MHD or factory where it holds the wastegates open, away from anything so it doesn’t rattle which induces lag
@@eninety every form post on n54 forums and on beamer forums says that the fix does indeed ad lag. Also when you apply the mhd fix it tells you that there is a potential lagg issue www.n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1974
Never dropped your sunglasses >>> not once
You mind elaborating on that comment? I'm jist getting my car back up and going....I purchased an msd81 dme and the guy left the mhd stage 2+ tune on it. Ive already done a few things...colder plugs...upgraded coils... index 12's aluminum charge pipe...and having my catless downpipes installed this week. When I first start the car in the morning....it has a slight wastegate rattle...for maybe 30 seconds then goes away. Im wondering if there would be any point in trying to adjust them
Are you in Sydney? Can I pay you to fix mine? Lol
you might be a kind of genius!
Bmw guys are lucky my mercedes cls m278 turbos are mounted on the side and you have to drop the motor
I have this on my fiesta!
My cts-v sport has the same thing shit is so annoying
Has anyone made a video where it actually shows how to do this bullshit
Instructions unclear. Car is now in a ditch
And it just fixed itself idk how
Mhd cold tune fixes it aswel
But causes turbo lag.
Some how mine fixed it self I started her up and and drove 80 right away
Are u deadass??
Dean Testa no lmao
How?
It sounds very... silly.
🇧🇷
Lol “build” this is “regular” maintenance on a n54. Oof
Go Clunker worth it
Cheers dude e93 335i is worst vehicle Iv ever brought 20k of crap ..back to Porsche 👍
Yeah this car is only for diy people
Look at my maintenance expenses
All from ebay and my car is working perfect. 120700 miles oil change 09/19/2017
120700 miles break rotors/pads 09/2017
121000 miles aliment 09/29/2017
123000 oil change 12/01/2017 ~>
123000 coolant change $30
123000 valve cleaning $40
123000 oil housing new gasket $20
123000 air mass sensor cleaning
123000 serpentine belt 01/2018 $30
125000 abs hydraulic pump $160
125000 coolant reservoir $30
125000 hood struts shocks 01/2018
126000 transmission fluid 03/2018 $60
12700 0il pan gasket $55
12700 Motor mounts $71
127000 Power steering fluid $26
127000 front sway bar ends links $27
127000 clock spring spiral $36 06/18
127000 front right strut mount $25 06/18
127000 car wax 06/18
127000 brake fluid 06/18 $17
255/35r18 tires
134000 spark plugs & coils 03/19$130$35
134000 radiator 04/19 $75
Front struts and shocks $123
Rear struts $35
Yep, i agree. E91 2007 car, I'm in hot weather Hong Kong, the plastic parts seem to have become brittle to split causing all kinds of leaks here and only at 90k miles. But i love the car, working as a building contractor, when it goes it's tonnes of fun !
Tony Peacock lol, I am here to tell you that.....you are 100% right. The e9x in general is a cheaply made super expensive chassis. Add a n54 and...enjoy bankruptcy.
My n54 is now my ex’s. LOL good luck! I ran as fast as I could from both
PORSCHE? LMFAO