Hey brother I’m a plumber and I learned that with pvc glue drying up on the shelf that if you store it upside down it can’t get air. It never goes bad for me after learning that little trick. It will work the same with brake fluid
Thanks again for your tutorial! I performed my pneumatic air brake bleed which worked out extremely well on my GL1800 Goldwing. What amazes me is that you don't even pump the pedal or hand brake during the entire process. Biggest thing is to keep an eye on your reservoir like you stated. Thanks again. 👍
Thank you so much for your clearly detailed video, including showing the various methods. I've ordered the vacuum set and your instructions will certainly guide me. You're a star ❤
Best video I’ve seen on this process. Thank you. I noted your comment about vacuum bleeding always creating air bubbles. Does that mean we always have to do manual bleeding after vacuum bleeding to remove all the bubbles?
Thanks. Rebuilt the front calliper and front master cylinder on my PCX scooter yesterday. It has "combi" brakes, so there's a combi reservoir and of course a combi master cylinder, too. The three pot calliper uses the centre pot as the combi brake, giving rear braking (from the combi) and a little front braking when using the rear brake lever. Doesn't seem to have made anything better. Watching this, and I had to fill the system from "dry" as you did, I am guessing I need either a kit like you have, or to leave the bleeding to a pro with such kit. Mind you, I have no idea what part the combi brake system has played in leaving me with brakes that a no better or worse than before the rebuild. What I did not know... folks you should probably take notice... is that you did not touch the brake lever/pedal when using the vacuum system. I guess you are "pulling from the end" of the system rather than "pushing from the start" of the system. MMMmmm. My brakes are not completely ineffective (I rode 30 miles to work today and have to ride home), but I will not leave them as they are. Good video.
I don't have to work the bleeder so much because I do let off the brake while it's open. Only after I'm about halfway done when I can do it quick enough to bleed out bubbles but be able to hit the brakes again just before they can be sucked back in. Saves ALOT of time when manually bleeding. Nice video I'm sure it's helped alot of people
@@HTMR it will not wreck paint. for long term storage it does not lock up w/c calipers. army was developed for useage. i have it in everything i own, been using for 20 ++ yrs not a brake problem, m/c collecter cars , work cars www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/pages/brake-fluids-glycol-silicone-explained-272 www.google.com/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwiIuvWZ4o3xAhVbbG8EHfORBWsYABAFGgJqZg&ae=2&sig=AOD64_1rbu0q4NP2lK2g2kHZQiFqi2hK1w&ctype=5&q=&ved=2ahUKEwj6jK2Z4o3xAhWPXc0KHde3BE4Q9aACegQIARBk&adurl=
Somebody mentioned above to turn your bottle upside down that will keep air from getting there and that would be assuming the cap is on tight enough to NOT let any fluid out that would be my only worry
Somebody mentioned above to turn your bottle upside down that will keep air from getting there and that would be assuming the cap is on tight enough to NOT let any fluid out that would be my only worry
Good job all around it should help me, my rear brake kinda popped snd the rear brake went to bottom of pedal, dealer said i may need a new diaphragm, i will try to bleed first, i have a fluid pump, i am guessing that might wk like the compressed air pump?
My rear brake locks up after riding a little while and frees up after cooling. Pretty sure my free play is good. Think it could be due to old fluid getting hot and expanding(due to high moisture content)? Also heard uneven pad wear can cause it. Any pointers would be greatly appreciated!
@@MakermookUnsure what the actual fix was, but I replaced the pads, flushed the old fluid, and lubed all slides and moving parts. Never had another issue.
I have a 2005 Honda GL1800 Goldwing. I've been told the opposite of your manual procedure 10:35. I was told to; Open the bleeder valve "first" > Push the pedal down once and hold > Close the bleeder valve > Repeat until no air bubbles are present. Now I'm questioning it???
Hold the pipe upwards towards the master cylinder too if using the manual method. This stops air getting back in as the fluid remains at the bottom of the hose. Keep doing it until the hose is full and then empty it.
Great Teaching Methods, much appreciated, Thank you for putting the video. Keep teaching, awesome information!
Hey brother I’m a plumber and I learned that with pvc glue drying up on the shelf that if you store it upside down it can’t get air. It never goes bad for me after learning that little trick. It will work the same with brake fluid
Thanks for the tip brother
Good one!
There is air in the bottle, regardless of that.
Thanks again for your tutorial! I performed my pneumatic air brake bleed which worked out extremely well on my GL1800 Goldwing. What amazes me is that you don't even pump the pedal or hand brake during the entire process. Biggest thing is to keep an eye on your reservoir like you stated. Thanks again. 👍
Thank you so much for your clearly detailed video, including showing the various methods. I've ordered the vacuum set and your instructions will certainly guide me. You're a star ❤
Very descriptive, great video. Thank you sir!
Thanks for the esoteric knowledge..from malaysia
Thanks for this man. I have an xt250 and want to change the brakes myself. I think this video will really help me 🤙🏽
That is very decent video manual. Thanks man!
Best video I’ve seen on this process. Thank you. I noted your comment about vacuum bleeding always creating air bubbles. Does that mean we always have to do manual bleeding after vacuum bleeding to remove all the bubbles?
I always do a manual bleed to check.
You've explained it the best thankyou!
Thanks man I did this today and now I see where I got it wrong lolol
Thanks.
Rebuilt the front calliper and front master cylinder on my PCX scooter yesterday.
It has "combi" brakes, so there's a combi reservoir and of course a combi master cylinder, too.
The three pot calliper uses the centre pot as the combi brake, giving rear braking (from the combi) and a little front braking when using the rear brake lever.
Doesn't seem to have made anything better.
Watching this, and I had to fill the system from "dry" as you did, I am guessing I need either a kit like you have, or to leave the bleeding to a pro with such kit.
Mind you, I have no idea what part the combi brake system has played in leaving me with brakes that a no better or worse than before the rebuild.
What I did not know... folks you should probably take notice... is that you did not touch the brake lever/pedal when using the vacuum system.
I guess you are "pulling from the end" of the system rather than "pushing from the start" of the system.
MMMmmm.
My brakes are not completely ineffective (I rode 30 miles to work today and have to ride home), but I will not leave them as they are.
Good video.
Very very detailed...Thank you sir~ Best ever seen~
I don't have to work the bleeder so much because I do let off the brake while it's open. Only after I'm about halfway done when I can do it quick enough to bleed out bubbles but be able to hit the brakes again just before they can be sucked back in. Saves ALOT of time when manually bleeding.
Nice video I'm sure it's helped alot of people
Good video thanks
Most excellent.
What size air compressor do you need for the last method?
Top vid, thanks bro
If the bottle end of your bleeder tube is submerged in fluid initially, you won't draw air back into the system.
what about silicone dot 5?? use on m collector cars. does not attract moisture for seizing the clys
I've never used it.
@@HTMR it will not wreck paint. for long term storage it does not lock up w/c calipers. army was developed for useage. i have it in everything i own, been using for 20 ++ yrs not a brake problem, m/c collecter cars , work cars www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/pages/brake-fluids-glycol-silicone-explained-272 www.google.com/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwiIuvWZ4o3xAhVbbG8EHfORBWsYABAFGgJqZg&ae=2&sig=AOD64_1rbu0q4NP2lK2g2kHZQiFqi2hK1w&ctype=5&q=&ved=2ahUKEwj6jK2Z4o3xAhWPXc0KHde3BE4Q9aACegQIARBk&adurl=
Has that motorcycle ever been ridden? How is it still showroom clean?
New build, that is why.
nice video
Thank you!!!
Having a can of Brakleen handy can also be helpful if any brake fluid spills where you don't want it to.
Yup, that and the brake fluid will kill your skin in seconds, I learned yesterday.
Must keep good gloves to hand.
Wonderful!!!!
I made the same kinda bleeder jar, stainless water bottle with tire valve stem fittings
How does it absorb water sitting on the shelf with the cap on?
Opened bottle is not airtight.
Somebody mentioned above to turn your bottle upside down that will keep air from getting there and that would be assuming the cap is on tight enough to NOT let any fluid out that would be my only worry
Somebody mentioned above to turn your bottle upside down that will keep air from getting there and that would be assuming the cap is on tight enough to NOT let any fluid out that would be my only worry
Good job all around it should help me, my rear brake kinda popped snd the rear brake went to bottom of pedal, dealer said i may need a new diaphragm, i will try to bleed first, i have a fluid pump, i am guessing that might wk like the compressed air pump?
My rear brake locks up after riding a little while and frees up after cooling. Pretty sure my free play is good. Think it could be due to old fluid getting hot and expanding(due to high moisture content)? Also heard uneven pad wear can cause it. Any pointers would be greatly appreciated!
I'm not a mechanic, but that makes sense, moisture expanding (steam, essentially) causing tight hot brakes and loose cool brakes.
@@MakermookUnsure what the actual fix was, but I replaced the pads, flushed the old fluid, and lubed all slides and moving parts. Never had another issue.
I have a 2005 Honda GL1800 Goldwing. I've been told the opposite of your manual procedure 10:35. I was told to; Open the bleeder valve "first" > Push the pedal down once and hold > Close the bleeder valve > Repeat until no air bubbles are present. Now I'm questioning it???
That is fine as well. Important part is to close bleeder before releasing pedal.
Thanks...Appreciate it. 👍@@HTMR
Hold the pipe upwards towards the master cylinder too if using the manual method. This stops air getting back in as the fluid remains at the bottom of the hose. Keep doing it until the hose is full and then empty it.
pipe=hose.
Removed and installed the caliper pistons. Manual method to refill both calipers and the lines takes a long long time. Will try the vacuum method.
Tx
Is everybody OK over there? Nothing for nearly a year? Just hoping all is well.
I'm still here.
For some reason the pistons won’t push against the pads. I’ve pumped and cracked the bleed nipple about a hundred times and pressure isn’t building.
Hello i am a motorcycle mechanic from morocco iam looking for work .can i find work with you?
Gosh det bike is beautiful
Love the videos, but where's the part about properly adjusting your rear brake lever?? LOL
I thought this was about bleeding brakes, not some lecture on physics. Get on with itman, Geez!