Thanks Chep for all these PETG & cura v5 profiles these are excellent, you take so much of the hard work out of 3d printing especially as i dont have a huge amount of spare time to do this myself, i can just print and go...thanks again
Any chance you could do a profile for Overture PETG? It's considered a higher end filament. The only way I could get a print with that stuff, was to slow the print to 10mms, and max out my ender 3 hot end and bed. It wouldn't stick to itself otherwise.
I will send you test results later this weekend, but one thing as well about PETG is the fact that you generally have to print at a slower speed than PLA. At least that's what I have found, slowing my print speeds down by about 30% compared to my pla profiles yield much better results
I use PEI sheets on glass for both my machines. I NEVER have issues either sticking or removing prints. I made them cheap by cutting my own PEI and glass sheets. A sanding block cleans the edges of the glass well.
I mainly use PETG for my prints and only use PLA for some of my movie props. I never liked using a glue stick and only ever use 3DLAC (better than hairspray) and tin goes a long way. Easy to clean too. My CR10 Smart Pro loves PETG but my CR6 had clogging issues until I ran some Capricorn tubing and it ran PETG just fine and still does now. If yiu need strength but don't don't to muck about with ABS then give PETG a try as you will find it revolutionary with some excellent everyday practical applications.
Hi CHEP, great video. I love your channel. I wanted to ask you for help with a problem I'm having. I have a Voxelab Aquila X2, and my extruder pulley stops after a while, it stops turning and when I press my extruder arm the pulley turns a little in the opposite direction, all the while the gear keeps turning and scrapes the filament , so it does not come out of the nozzle. I have already tried cleaning my hotend and checking for clogging, adjusting the pressure on my extruder arm, making sure the teflon tube is clean, increasing the print temperature a bit, cleaning my extruder gear, but none of these things has worked, could you help me to solve it?
Love seeing you branch out into PETG, Chuck - it's a great material for applications where PLA just won't work (due to limited resistance to heat, creep, or excessive strain), it's easier to print than ABS or nylon, and the number of available colors (clear or opaque) is almost as good as PLA. The GreenGate3D stuff in particular was very surprising for me, as the samples I got through my Maker Box were printing well at temperatures as cold as 205˚C (some of those were admittedly on my Sidewinder X1, so take a Volcano nozzle-sized grain of salt there). My personal favorite PETG is from Coex LLC here in Wisconsin...between the many samples I've gotten through Maker Box as well as others I've bought on purpose, it just prints really nicely with minimal stringing, making good, strong prints - and at a reasonable price for the quality. It does require 240ish˚, however, so it definitely needs a metallic heat break to avoid nasty fumes. The only other low-temp PETG I've used besides GreenGate3D has been from SnoLabs; I got a spool of opaque blue PETG on sale from them and the temp towers confirmed that 200-210˚ was the best temperature for my Micro-Swiss hot end...and it is liquid at the default PLA pre-heat temperature of 185˚. Only the complete lack of bonding to Fusion Filaments HTPLA while attempting a two-color print suggests that it really is indeed PETG (Coex PLA bonded to the Fusion Filaments material quite perfectly with the exact same gcode). I definitely plan on trying out your profiles; I've accidentally printed PETG parts with your standard profiles on occasion (just with temperature/fan changes to account for PETG's particular quirks) and have mostly relied on a Micro-Swiss direct-drive extruder-specific profile that I actually no longer remember where and how I got it..."Jeremy O", wherever and whoever you are, thanks for making a profile that's worked extremely well for me over the years. I'm curious to see what Profile Analyzer has to say about the solutions you've come up with versus what that dude worked out, and to see which one works best going forward. Thanks again for your contributions to the 3D printing community!
Being a complete noo to any form of 3D printing I find it extremely exciting to ba able to change some of the settings to tailor the print to your needs.......that is provided the machine has most if not all of the recommended upgrades that are significant and not merely cosmetic.
After about 25 test prints I've1 got my fan speed set at 60% and on my machine, and Ender-3 Pro modified with linear rails, I have my retraction set at 4.5mm with a speed of 10mm/s with a retraction extra prime amount of 0.01mm. I'm printing at 50mm/s with a 20mm/s first layer and am getting awesome nearly string free prints. There are a few prints that have a little bit of wispy strings over long distances but those disappear with a heat gun. I am using Overture PETG at 225C and any color I print except the "glass like" are working great with maybe a minor change to temperature here and there. edit: My bed temp is set to 75C
Yeah, honestly having almost no cooling fan will give the best results. I run about 20-40% fan apart from overhangs and bridges which I cool like PLA (75-100% fan)
Thanks for this. The profile creates lovely prints - but weak - the walls separate when you bend the part - or can be separated with a sharp knife. Any suggestions for making walls stick together? Thanks.
The biggest problem I have with PETG is the blobbing at the end of my nozzle. The items I'm printing need great layer adhesion, so I'm printing at the top of my temperature range. I find if I print slower there is less blobbing.
Try massively increasing your travel acceleration is something like 2800 and 340mm/s edit: If you have a silent driver board do NOT change your acceleration, You will have layer shifting
@@FilamentFriday Yes, I have calibrated. I am not sure, but I think it has to do with the higher temps of petg like to stick to my hardened steel nozzle. I don't have this issue at lower temperatures. Thanks for the suggestion.
@@jon9947 It's not a bed level issue. the blobbing usually starts happening later in the print. I agree with the parts cooling fan, I do the same thing.
Server Error when downloading PETG Super Fast 0.28 profile... I really appreciate you sharing these profiles. I'm going to be testing as I've just starting using PETG after only using PLA. I get nibbing and of course stringing but I am wondering how these will fair with nibbing on my Ender 3 Pro. Again, Thank You for sharing, Chuck!!!
I know it says in desc these are for a .4 nozzle, but what would it entail to use for a .6? I had recently taken to the new improvements and whatnot with .6 nozzles and don't want to change back and forth.
Thank you for the great video. If you find time could you possibly do a video on the crystal clear petg for cura? Many people have settings and videos for slicers that are cura, but I haven't seen anyone do it successfully on cura. The prints look close to clear resin prints.
Ran into a strange issue. The PETG profile would print a file after an outline, linear from bottom to top. And it was not good with lines curling upward while printing. Yet if I printed the same file in the standard 0.12 profile, changing the temps and speed to match, it would start at the top right and diagonally print with no issues.
Thank you for this timely video, for my next 'To Do' project. The guide tips are awesome, and my modified Ender5 already was designed with Capicorn between the top mounted filament drive motor and the hotend. I can't wait to give this a try.
My tips for eliminating stringing (and the resulting blobs) with PETG: Dry it. If translucent/transparent, dry it some more. Tune retraction distance and speed by printing test towers. Crank your travel velocity up as high as your printer can handle. Use a silicone sock.
Tried the extra fast 0.28 profile on my Ender 3 using Sunlu PETG, but got very bad adhesion between the outer walls - the outermost wall could be peeled off in one piece (not a layer, the outer wall from multiple layers). Also got some spots were the top layer did not touch the outer wall. No such issues using the default Cura profiles. I suspect 225 degrees is too low for my PETG, or maybe speed was too high.
Thanks for the Profiles!! Could you do Please do profiles for Direct Drive extruder printers or will this ones be great for them?? Thanks for all your help!!!!
If you add a HeatBreak to your printer, would you need to go back and make adjustment to retraction and print speed ? Or do you think that the HeatBreak wouldn't cause you to need to make adjustments ?
i REALLY LOVE petg, but in recent buys, i got a lot of humidity from different brands. so I´m moving to ABS/ASA. And it seems to work pretty good with water and sugar, just keep the ants away !
Could you export curaprofile files instead? They're much more convenient to import than 3mf project files. It was a breeze to import your PETG profiles, but the others X.X
Wouldn't say the best but definitely better than an oven. The dehydrator is made to slowly move air around the chamber and that's what you want. An over is so unpredictable during the time its attempting to maintain its temperature.
@@bruceyoung1343 I got a SunLu dryer, but before that I purchased some desiccant room containers that have a large amount of pebbles from Dollar Tree that worked quite well and quickly.
@@inkonlint I built my self a “ dry box”. That’s a airtight container , a stand I printed up to hold 3-4 rolls of filament. And I think it’s 1 lb desiccant granules. And a humidity gauge. Humidity inside 18%. But I was told after making the dry box that it won’t make wet filament dry, but what ever percentage wet filament goes in won’t get and wetter. I don’t know
Perfect Video, but I printed your temperature tower for Petg, (the gcode version) it does change temperature so it works, BUT.. all stages look exactly the same !! so i still dont know which temperature to choose. Its the Xpetg from extrudr (just ad a com) and it says from 210 to 230 degrees.. What should I look for on the temperature tower??? Luc
I checked out your PETG profile and its very slow compared to what I use. At 230C the PETG is much less viscus than PLA so you can speed it up. However I have have some warping issues with wide prints after releasing them from the bed. I'll mess with the slower or no cooling and hopefully you are right. Thanks for posting. Great videos!
I'd suggest dropping cooling first. Some of my PETG i run no fan, or max fan between 20-33% (depending how drafty the room is) (yeah draft can affect layer adhesion, it's like a glass shell hardens around the liquid inside the moment it leaves the nozzle)
Hello, I was wondering if you have had an issue with the Neptune 2/2s in Cura. Right now, it won't properly display infill percentage. 100% looks like 70% and 70 like 40
Thanks for the Cura 5.1 PLA profiles! Looking forward to 5.2/5.3 👍 Question: what's the difference between Good / Best / and Extra Fast profiles with the same layer height? I'd love to see a comparison video. I have some detailed parts for cosplay and I'm debating between which profile to use.
I love you 5.0 Super fast Cura setting (0.2 ad .28) Problem is for mechanical parts which need good tolerances, I find it too small by maybe 10%? Example a 5/16" clearance screw hole. is way too small. I have to go into Fusion and make it bigger. And Previously my ender 3 printed perfect tolerances. I'd just add .1mm to a screw hole and it was spot on.
Im running your 0.12 PETG profile right now, and so far the part is looking FANTASTIC! but as we all know, print times with 0.4 is quite a bit longer than with a 0.6mm nozzle, are you planning to start experimenting with something like it?
I specifically got Capricorn XS on my Ender 3 specifically so i could print PETG without charring the Bowden Tube. XS can apparently go to 300c? Pricey, but worth it. Teflon fumes aren't safe to breath, (and EXCEPTIONALLY TOXIC to birds) make sure you're in a well ventilated space regardless. And keep pet birds FAR away from Bowden style printers, even if printing PLA. I plan to get a bi-metal hotend SoonTM.
Previously in 5.0 and before I could download your model, open in Cura and the profile would automatically be installed. This time it does not and I'm having to choose "Import" from profiles pointing back to the zip extract. Maybe a new security feature?
Good to see you still make video's :P found my Ender 3 in my garage. Think hmz could be fun to start printing gain, since i like a challenge i bought an "ENDER 7" for 250$ off Amazon :P Got the thing to work by adding an CR touch printed some stuff i think why not PETG (since my blower vents where CRACKED and fell apart from using cheap plastic by Creality :P ) Got it working with creality slicer 4.8 but i NEED v5 but that has NO ender 7 profiles and hey i LIKE pictures in Klipper. (yeah CM4 and an BTT Pad7 is on it)
So I tried the extra fast 0.2 profile and I couldn't get the first layer infill to stick at all (but skirt and perimeter was fine)... I compared it to some other profiles and I tried increasing the "top/bottom line width" from 0.28 to 0.45 and that seems to fix it!
Chep well made video as always, is this profile just for 5.0 or is the same as 4.13? For some reason Cura 5.2 won't install on my laptop, even with latest video drivers available for my 2012 laptop it still gives message that it needs OpenGL 2.0 or newer. Unless someone knows a work around I'm stuck with 4.13.
I love this Ender 2 Pro and it prints Hatchbox PLA Pro+ amazingly. My problem is when I went to print regular Hatchbox PLA the filament jams the nozzle. It’ll lay down the test strip but nothing else comes out. My settings are Nozzle 200° and Bed 60°. Your advice would be greatly appreciated.
@@FilamentFriday Thanks for responding. It only clogs with the plain PLA. I can muscle it back out and insert the PLA Pro and it’ll flow through perfectly without having to do anything physical to the printer. Could it have anything to do with the fan speed?
Yes. The fan can be failing and spin too slow causing the heat sink to get to hot. If you can touch the heat sink and it’s really hot, replace the fan.
Hi Chep,I've used your Profiles in Pla with Cura for a good while now and they give some great results..The newer version of Cura has just come out ,Are your profiles suited or have you done some new ones I have came in search as I never have good results with PETG I'm running a Cr6se and Cr6 Max
@@FilamentFriday Just to make sure I understand the video in the link you sent, if I use the extra fast PLA profile, what you recommend keeping the .4mm nozzle and adjust the temperatures and retraction settings for PETG it should work?
Is my cura just broken? EVERY time you put out a profile. I download it to try out the greatness that is your work. I open Cura. Open the file. AND IT NEVER works the first time. I.E. Just the print file loads. NONE of the profile
Hello CHEP. I don’t understand. With your PETG profiles, I have very important concerns about overkill. Like, with EF0.28, I have a blob that forms in the first layer. If I use your EF0.28 5.1 profile for PLA with temperatures and ventilation for my PETG the printing is perfect on my 3-S1 ender. I don’t know what the problem is! Thank you for your response
@@bakersfieldpickers7615 Yes, I am currently printing a desktop case for a Raspberry Pi and an SSD accessory board. A 6hr print and you don't want it breaking loose and suddenly sliding off the bed at anytime during the process.
Dear CHEP, as a follower of your channel and on the recommendation of another TH-camr, I would like to know if you can tell me where to find an optimal CURA profile for the Ender 3 S1, to print TPU, just as you have put several on PETG, do you know a link to TPU?, Thanks in advance and keep up your channel, it's very interesting. Greetings from Buenos Aires, Argentina. 👍🤗
Hi, I like the videos for my Ender 3 v2 but I have a Voron 2.4, is anyway you can make the profile to Voron or what I need to do or where I can find a good profile like yours for Voron 2.4. Thanks in advance for your help.
When I try to import it says quality type "standard"is not compatible with with the current active machine definition "fdmprinter". I have a tevo tornado with 5.1 cura
Having to print really slow with PETG and a 0.4mm nozzle, i`m using 30mm/s as cura speed setting, and 30% in the ender 3 tune speed setting, higher that that and the filament dont sitck to the bed/layer. I`m using 90c on the bed and 240c on the nozzle. Bed is glass and no other mod to the printer. Am i doing anything wrong? With a 1mm nozzle the speeds can be normal, but i`m thinking that for the smaller nozzer the speed need to be too mutch slower, i want to print something with 0.2mm nozzle and PETG, but i`m afraid it will have to be at slow motion at this point. didn't have any of this with PLA, PLA with 0.2mm nozzle is normal.
Set the cooling fan to 10% . PETG doesnt like as much cooling as PLA. I print fine with 10% fan, 230c nozzle, 80c bed on my ender 3 v2 neo. Speed is 50mm/s
I use 275 with an all-metal hot end and 0.6mm steel nozzle. 235 with PLA+. The temperature ranges given by manufacturers are more like general guidelines.
Hiya Chep I seem to be getting a server error trying to download "Filament Friday PETG Extra Fast 0.28 Cura Profile" all others working ...thought id let you know.
Hi CHEP. My PET-G prints are melting a bit on the bottom, the build plate temperature is 60 C and the nozzle is 230 C. The higher the temperatures the worse it is. I'm using your parameters whilst printing. Do you have any idea what migh cause the melting problem? The printer is Ender 3 V2. Best regards from Polnd.
@@FilamentFriday i have try to do that but i get message that it dont work on my cura.i have all other profile u have out and no trouble on that but on petg i cant load the profil :/ i use 4.13 verson of cura
I have that printer. Well I have a few, but it's nice to have a similar one also. I don't do PETG that much. Never spent the time to tune it. I am excited to try. Though my surface is worn out and I replaced it with a similar surface. So it will be interesting to see if my new surface will stick as well.
I will NEVER order directly from Creality again. My ender 6 arrived with a malformed extrusion and there customer service was very poor. They just kept telling me to keep waiting. 8 months later I finally got the part from them luckily the rest of the machine worked because the warranty was up by the time I could finally put it together. If they had just decided not to help me there would have been nothing I could have done. Of course they will go out of there way to help a larger youtube channel to make them look good but for the average customer good luck! From now on I will always order from a U.S based reseller so they will actually have customer support. I like the machines but never buy from them direct.
@@TechGorilla1987 oh yeah for sure that's what I'm saying buy it from Amazon or somewhere that will actually give you customer service, if something's not right you can at least send it back or something
Microcenter ftw. They have a 30 day return and their warranty (if you choose to buy) starts after the factory warranty ends! Which is kinda weird considering how none of their other warranties do this to my knowledge.
@@FilamentFriday for some reason with the PETG files they keep getting terrible first layers my z is great and everything and I have a Cr touch and my bed is leveled it's just once I run your file it ends up making a terrible first layer idky 😩 I wanted it to work so bad becsude I love the 0.28 file I wanted the extra fast 0.12 I also have a 0.4 nozzle
Hi, unfortunately temperature tower isn't reliable way to evaluate proper printing temp for filament because tower is usually small in x/y dimensions and so carriage don't reach target speed, e.g. 60 mm/s..As result print turns out great even in much lower temp. Apart from that printing tower is waste of time and material. It's better to just print target model with typical temp for PLA/PETG and adjust, especially if extruder starts to skip steps due to too low temp for the print speed.
For my PLA Profiles visit this video: Free Cura Slicer V5.0 Profiles - Fine Detail to Hyper Fast
th-cam.com/video/jM_jdsx5yFc/w-d-xo.html
Hello chep ... these profiles for plane, serve to ABS too
This video was just in time for my first ever roll of PETG to show up today! Thanks for all your help Chuck.
Again - thanks for testing and providing your Cura profiles - they have changed how I print. I love them and the videos you constantly keep producing.
Excellent, Chuck! Thanks a lot! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thanks Chep for all these PETG & cura v5 profiles these are excellent, you take so much of the hard work out of 3d printing especially as i dont have a huge amount of spare time to do this myself, i can just print and go...thanks again
Thanks for watching
Thanks Chuck! I would like to see more videos about PETG and especially ABS that I have never printed yet
I’ve done ABS in the past. I don’t recommend it.
@@FilamentFriday why? is it because it is more difficult? or because it emanates toxic fumes? I clearly wouldn't try to print with a stock Ender 3.
@@FilamentFriday How about ASA?
I print PETG with the fan off, except for bridging and very small layers, like the Benchy smokestack or very small parts.
Any chance you could do a profile for Overture PETG? It's considered a higher end filament. The only way I could get a print with that stuff, was to slow the print to 10mms, and max out my ender 3 hot end and bed. It wouldn't stick to itself otherwise.
I've been struggling with some PETG prints recently on my Neptune 2. Haven't clicked this fast on a video in a while.
I will send you test results later this weekend, but one thing as well about PETG is the fact that you generally have to print at a slower speed than PLA. At least that's what I have found, slowing my print speeds down by about 30% compared to my pla profiles yield much better results
Slower is always better no matter the filament.
@@FilamentFriday True, but your can definitely push PLA faster with good results
Perfect timing chep!! I’m printing some Halloween decorations this weekend in orange petg.
I have found Hairspray is my best for Sunlu PETG which is always coming from my homemade dry box
I use PEI sheets on glass for both my machines. I NEVER have issues either sticking or removing prints. I made them cheap by cutting my own PEI and glass sheets. A sanding block cleans the edges of the glass well.
I mainly use PETG for my prints and only use PLA for some of my movie props. I never liked using a glue stick and only ever use 3DLAC (better than hairspray) and tin goes a long way. Easy to clean too. My CR10 Smart Pro loves PETG but my CR6 had clogging issues until I ran some Capricorn tubing and it ran PETG just fine and still does now. If yiu need strength but don't don't to muck about with ABS then give PETG a try as you will find it revolutionary with some excellent everyday practical applications.
1:45 Isn't Capricorn tubing rated at 260??
I really appreciate you finally making PETG profiles!
I am using PETG the most for years now. So I am happy to see your profiles to compare them to mine. Thanks👍
Hi CHEP, great video. I love your channel.
I wanted to ask you for help with a problem I'm having. I have a Voxelab Aquila X2, and my extruder pulley stops after a while, it stops turning and when I press my extruder arm the pulley turns a little in the opposite direction, all the while the gear keeps turning and scrapes the filament , so it does not come out of the nozzle. I have already tried cleaning my hotend and checking for clogging, adjusting the pressure on my extruder arm, making sure the teflon tube is clean, increasing the print temperature a bit, cleaning my extruder gear, but none of these things has worked, could you help me to solve it?
Love seeing you branch out into PETG, Chuck - it's a great material for applications where PLA just won't work (due to limited resistance to heat, creep, or excessive strain), it's easier to print than ABS or nylon, and the number of available colors (clear or opaque) is almost as good as PLA. The GreenGate3D stuff in particular was very surprising for me, as the samples I got through my Maker Box were printing well at temperatures as cold as 205˚C (some of those were admittedly on my Sidewinder X1, so take a Volcano nozzle-sized grain of salt there). My personal favorite PETG is from Coex LLC here in Wisconsin...between the many samples I've gotten through Maker Box as well as others I've bought on purpose, it just prints really nicely with minimal stringing, making good, strong prints - and at a reasonable price for the quality. It does require 240ish˚, however, so it definitely needs a metallic heat break to avoid nasty fumes.
The only other low-temp PETG I've used besides GreenGate3D has been from SnoLabs; I got a spool of opaque blue PETG on sale from them and the temp towers confirmed that 200-210˚ was the best temperature for my Micro-Swiss hot end...and it is liquid at the default PLA pre-heat temperature of 185˚. Only the complete lack of bonding to Fusion Filaments HTPLA while attempting a two-color print suggests that it really is indeed PETG (Coex PLA bonded to the Fusion Filaments material quite perfectly with the exact same gcode).
I definitely plan on trying out your profiles; I've accidentally printed PETG parts with your standard profiles on occasion (just with temperature/fan changes to account for PETG's particular quirks) and have mostly relied on a Micro-Swiss direct-drive extruder-specific profile that I actually no longer remember where and how I got it..."Jeremy O", wherever and whoever you are, thanks for making a profile that's worked extremely well for me over the years. I'm curious to see what Profile Analyzer has to say about the solutions you've come up with versus what that dude worked out, and to see which one works best going forward. Thanks again for your contributions to the 3D printing community!
Being a complete noo to any form of 3D printing I find it extremely exciting to ba able to change some of the settings to tailor the print to your needs.......that is provided the machine has most if not all of the recommended upgrades that are significant and not merely cosmetic.
After about 25 test prints I've1 got my fan speed set at 60% and on my machine, and Ender-3 Pro modified with linear rails, I have my retraction set at 4.5mm with a speed of 10mm/s with a retraction extra prime amount of 0.01mm. I'm printing at 50mm/s with a 20mm/s first layer and am getting awesome nearly string free prints. There are a few prints that have a little bit of wispy strings over long distances but those disappear with a heat gun. I am using Overture PETG at 225C and any color I print except the "glass like" are working great with maybe a minor change to temperature here and there. edit: My bed temp is set to 75C
oh so PLA need more cooling than PETG? i always thought its the other way
Yeah, honestly having almost no cooling fan will give the best results. I run about 20-40% fan apart from overhangs and bridges which I cool like PLA (75-100% fan)
Have you gotten your hands on the new Creality Sonic Pad?
For some reason this guy doesn't like klipper firmware, Not a single video about it
Thanks for this. The profile creates lovely prints - but weak - the walls separate when you bend the part - or can be separated with a sharp knife. Any suggestions for making walls stick together? Thanks.
Beautiful profiles A+++ I mostly print PETG and by far the nicest and cleanest prints on my CR-10 Mini using these profiles. Thumbs Up
The biggest problem I have with PETG is the blobbing at the end of my nozzle. The items I'm printing need great layer adhesion, so I'm printing at the top of my temperature range. I find if I print slower there is less blobbing.
Have you calibrated your flow?
Try massively increasing your travel acceleration is something like 2800 and 340mm/s
edit: If you have a silent driver board do NOT change your acceleration, You will have layer shifting
@@FilamentFriday Yes, I have calibrated. I am not sure, but I think it has to do with the higher temps of petg like to stick to my hardened steel nozzle. I don't have this issue at lower temperatures. Thanks for the suggestion.
@@jon9947 It's not a bed level issue. the blobbing usually starts happening later in the print. I agree with the parts cooling fan, I do the same thing.
Use G10/Garolite/FR4 as a bed surface... PETG pops off like PLA does on glass when the bed cools.
Server Error when downloading PETG Super Fast 0.28 profile... I really appreciate you sharing these profiles. I'm going to be testing as I've just starting using PETG after only using PLA. I get nibbing and of course stringing but I am wondering how these will fair with nibbing on my Ender 3 Pro. Again, Thank You for sharing, Chuck!!!
There are stringing test STLs. You might need to tune the retraction for your specific machine and set up.
I know it says in desc these are for a .4 nozzle, but what would it entail to use for a .6? I had recently taken to the new improvements and whatnot with .6 nozzles and don't want to change back and forth.
You will probably need to increase hotend temperature. You will be pushing filament faster, meaning less time in the hot zone.
Thank you for the great video. If you find time could you possibly do a video on the crystal clear petg for cura? Many people have settings and videos for slicers that are cura, but I haven't seen anyone do it successfully on cura. The prints look close to clear resin prints.
Just follow the same steps as CNC Kitchen has outlined and apply them to Cura. Most settings do transfer between all slicers.
Ran into a strange issue. The PETG profile would print a file after an outline, linear from bottom to top. And it was not good with lines curling upward while printing. Yet if I printed the same file in the standard 0.12 profile, changing the temps and speed to match, it would start at the top right and diagonally print with no issues.
Which PETG profile?
I just tried going over to your profiles in thangs and it wouldn’t load the page for some reason. 😢
Thank you for this timely video, for my next 'To Do' project. The guide tips are awesome, and my modified Ender5 already was designed with Capicorn between the top mounted filament drive motor and the hotend. I can't wait to give this a try.
My tips for eliminating stringing (and the resulting blobs) with PETG: Dry it. If translucent/transparent, dry it some more. Tune retraction distance and speed by printing test towers. Crank your travel velocity up as high as your printer can handle. Use a silicone sock.
Tried the extra fast 0.28 profile on my Ender 3 using Sunlu PETG, but got very bad adhesion between the outer walls - the outermost wall could be peeled off in one piece (not a layer, the outer wall from multiple layers). Also got some spots were the top layer did not touch the outer wall.
No such issues using the default Cura profiles. I suspect 225 degrees is too low for my PETG, or maybe speed was too high.
Adjust the temp to match the filament.
@@FilamentFriday Yup, upping the temp to 245 for my eSun filament seems to have fixed the issue! Thx
What adjustments would need to be done to make this a viable profile for 0.6mm extruders?
Can't import to Cura because it's not a .3mf file.
Thanks for the Profiles!! Could you do Please do profiles for Direct Drive extruder printers or will this ones be great for them?? Thanks for all your help!!!!
Just change existing profile to retraction of 1-2 mm
Thank you!!
HI, WILL YOUR CURA PROFILE , WORK ON PRUSA SLICER
If you add a HeatBreak to your printer, would you need to go back and make adjustment to retraction and print speed ? Or do you think that the HeatBreak wouldn't cause you to need to make adjustments ?
I haven’t changed anything and it’s working fine.
i REALLY LOVE petg, but in recent buys, i got a lot of humidity from different brands. so I´m moving to ABS/ASA. And it seems to work pretty good with water and sugar, just keep the ants away !
you should dry abs/asa too you should dry anything except PLA
Could you export curaprofile files instead? They're much more convenient to import than 3mf project files. It was a breeze to import your PETG profiles, but the others X.X
Hi very good job, do you have prusaslicer profiles for petg ?
Is a Food Dehydrator is the best way to dry filaments
Wouldn't say the best but definitely better than an oven. The dehydrator is made to slowly move air around the chamber and that's what you want. An over is so unpredictable during the time its attempting to maintain its temperature.
@@inkonlint right now after opening roll only have desiccant and vac bags. But only works so well
@@bruceyoung1343 I got a SunLu dryer, but before that I purchased some desiccant room containers that have a large amount of pebbles from Dollar Tree that worked quite well and quickly.
@@inkonlint I built my self a “ dry box”. That’s a airtight container , a stand I printed up to hold 3-4 rolls of filament. And I think it’s 1 lb desiccant granules. And a humidity gauge. Humidity inside 18%. But I was told after making the dry box that it won’t make wet filament dry, but what ever percentage wet filament goes in won’t get and wetter. I don’t know
Perfect Video, but I printed your temperature tower for Petg, (the gcode version) it does change temperature so it works, BUT.. all stages look exactly the same !! so i still dont know which temperature to choose. Its the Xpetg from extrudr (just ad a com) and it says from 210 to 230 degrees.. What should I look for on the temperature tower???
Luc
I checked out your PETG profile and its very slow compared to what I use. At 230C the PETG is much less viscus than PLA so you can speed it up. However I have have some warping issues with wide prints after releasing them from the bed. I'll mess with the slower or no cooling and hopefully you are right.
Thanks for posting. Great videos!
I'd suggest dropping cooling first. Some of my PETG i run no fan, or max fan between 20-33% (depending how drafty the room is) (yeah draft can affect layer adhesion, it's like a glass shell hardens around the liquid inside the moment it leaves the nozzle)
I took apart my Ender 2 pro hotend and it looked to me that it had a slice engineering clone heatbreak? The PTFE didn't touch the nozzle.
You sure?
I’ve yet to see one that didn’t have that.
@@FilamentFriday yes, no kidding... Can send you a picture of it if you like
Send to chelleb1 at yahoo
Would using Capricorn tubing instead of the stock PTFE help when printing at around 230?
So far mine has held up good printing at 240-250
Hello, I was wondering if you have had an issue with the Neptune 2/2s in Cura. Right now, it won't properly display infill percentage. 100% looks like 70% and 70 like 40
I use my Ender profiles so no issues for me
Thanks for the Cura 5.1 PLA profiles! Looking forward to 5.2/5.3 👍
Question: what's the difference between Good / Best / and Extra Fast profiles with the same layer height? I'd love to see a comparison video.
I have some detailed parts for cosplay and I'm debating between which profile to use.
The profiles you have on the description set to 0.4 nozzle, can I use the profile and just change nozzle setting from 0.4 to 0.6?
Probably not well. I’m working on 0.6 version for PETG.
@@FilamentFriday yes please thank you so much
I love you 5.0 Super fast Cura setting (0.2 ad .28) Problem is for mechanical parts which need good tolerances, I find it too small by maybe 10%? Example a 5/16" clearance screw hole. is way too small. I have to go into Fusion and make it bigger. And Previously my ender 3 printed perfect tolerances. I'd just add .1mm to a screw hole and it was spot on.
Try this instead. th-cam.com/video/UUelLZvDelU/w-d-xo.html
Im running your 0.12 PETG profile right now, and so far the part is looking FANTASTIC! but as we all know, print times with 0.4 is quite a bit longer than with a 0.6mm nozzle, are you planning to start experimenting with something like it?
have a nice thankgiving chep
I specifically got Capricorn XS on my Ender 3 specifically so i could print PETG without charring the Bowden Tube. XS can apparently go to 300c? Pricey, but worth it.
Teflon fumes aren't safe to breath, (and EXCEPTIONALLY TOXIC to birds) make sure you're in a well ventilated space regardless. And keep pet birds FAR away from Bowden style printers, even if printing PLA.
I plan to get a bi-metal hotend SoonTM.
Im having issues with the infill. It looks fluff. But the walls are great. Just looking for some guidance. Thanks
Have you considered messing with silks/lite profiles?... maybe I missed a post but I struggle with Polymaker Polylite PLA in copper, silver and gold.
Silk PLA is full of elastomers. It's not TPU, but it has some compression in a Bowden. You just have to go slower.
Previously in 5.0 and before I could download your model, open in Cura and the profile would automatically be installed. This time it does not and I'm having to choose "Import" from profiles pointing back to the zip extract. Maybe a new security feature?
@CHEP I am getting an error in CURA when trying to load the profiles.
Good to see you still make video's :P found my Ender 3 in my garage.
Think hmz could be fun to start printing gain, since i like a challenge i bought an "ENDER 7" for 250$ off Amazon :P
Got the thing to work by adding an CR touch printed some stuff i think why not PETG (since my blower vents where CRACKED and fell apart from using cheap plastic by Creality :P )
Got it working with creality slicer 4.8 but i NEED v5 but that has NO ender 7 profiles and hey i LIKE pictures in Klipper. (yeah CM4 and an BTT Pad7 is on it)
So I tried the extra fast 0.2 profile and I couldn't get the first layer infill to stick at all (but skirt and perimeter was fine)... I compared it to some other profiles and I tried increasing the "top/bottom line width" from 0.28 to 0.45 and that seems to fix it!
hey Chep, the .28 profile is showing "server error" when trying to download
Chep well made video as always, is this profile just for 5.0 or is the same as 4.13? For some reason Cura 5.2 won't install on my laptop, even with latest video drivers available for my 2012 laptop it still gives message that it needs OpenGL 2.0 or newer. Unless someone knows a work around I'm stuck with 4.13.
V5.0+. All my previous are archived for Patreon supporters.
I love this Ender 2 Pro and it prints Hatchbox PLA Pro+ amazingly. My problem is when I went to print regular Hatchbox PLA the filament jams the nozzle. It’ll lay down the test strip but nothing else comes out. My settings are Nozzle 200° and Bed 60°. Your advice would be greatly appreciated.
Maybe check for blockage above the nozzle.
@@FilamentFriday Thanks for responding. It only clogs with the plain PLA. I can muscle it back out and insert the PLA Pro and it’ll flow through perfectly without having to do anything physical to the printer. Could it have anything to do with the fan speed?
Yes. The fan can be failing and spin too slow causing the heat sink to get to hot. If you can touch the heat sink and it’s really hot, replace the fan.
Hi Chep,I've used your Profiles in Pla with Cura for a good while now and they give some great results..The newer version of Cura has just come out ,Are your profiles suited or have you done some new ones
I have came in search as I never have good results with PETG I'm running a Cr6se and Cr6 Max
Yes, they work with 5.3.
@@FilamentFriday Thankyou 👍👍 Keep up the great work
wont PETG ruin an magnetic bed ?
I recommend a layer of glue stick with PETG to create a sticky layer of separation. Can wash it off after.
@@FilamentFriday won’t the glue get on the nozzle tho
It shouldn’t but if it does it won’t hurt anything.
@@FilamentFriday would hairspray work at all
@CHEP any suggested changes to the profile if you are using a .6mm nozzle?
Yeah. Watch this: th-cam.com/video/dbJYQ4hYTMA/w-d-xo.html
@@FilamentFriday Just to make sure I understand the video in the link you sent, if I use the extra fast PLA profile, what you recommend keeping the .4mm nozzle and adjust the temperatures and retraction settings for PETG it should work?
If you want to use PETG, start with these. th-cam.com/video/6TKmPzT4KtE/w-d-xo.html
PETG sticks to my nozzle and lifts back up unless i crank the heat up. 260 first layer
Hopefully you do a cf nylon soon!
do i need to apply glue on PEI bed for pteg?
Is my cura just broken? EVERY time you put out a profile. I download it to try out the greatness that is your work. I open Cura. Open the file. AND IT NEVER works the first time. I.E. Just the print file loads. NONE of the profile
Did you import the profile?
Hello CHEP.
I don’t understand. With your PETG profiles, I have very important concerns about overkill. Like, with EF0.28, I have a blob that forms in the first layer. If I use your EF0.28 5.1 profile for PLA with temperatures and ventilation for my PETG the printing is perfect on my 3-S1 ender.
I don’t know what the problem is!
Thank you for your response
I am in need help on my cr-10v3. I can't get the filament to lay down perfectly
I had the same issue with my glass bed. A glue stick applied in the corners of the print area gave good results.
@@dronepilotflyby9481 is that with any kind of filament?
@@bakersfieldpickers7615 Yes, I am currently printing a desktop case for a Raspberry Pi and an SSD accessory board. A 6hr print and you don't want it breaking loose and suddenly sliding off the bed at anytime during the process.
Dear CHEP, as a follower of your channel and on the recommendation of another TH-camr, I would like to know if you can tell me where to find an optimal CURA profile for the Ender 3 S1, to print TPU, just as you have put several on PETG, do you know a link to TPU?, Thanks in advance and keep up your channel, it's very interesting. Greetings from Buenos Aires, Argentina. 👍🤗
Here you go: th-cam.com/video/sGxewzACO9g/w-d-xo.html
Hi, I like the videos for my Ender 3 v2 but I have a Voron 2.4, is anyway you can make the profile to Voron or what I need to do or where I can find a good profile like yours for Voron 2.4. Thanks in advance for your help.
I don’t have a voron to test.
When I try to import it says quality type "standard"is not compatible with with the current active machine definition "fdmprinter". I have a tevo tornado with 5.1 cura
Follow this: th-cam.com/video/zAEjGEvtL28/w-d-xo.html
@@FilamentFriday thank you, worked great.
Having to print really slow with PETG and a 0.4mm nozzle, i`m using 30mm/s as cura speed setting, and 30% in the ender 3 tune speed setting, higher that that and the filament dont sitck to the bed/layer. I`m using 90c on the bed and 240c on the nozzle. Bed is glass and no other mod to the printer. Am i doing anything wrong? With a 1mm nozzle the speeds can be normal, but i`m thinking that for the smaller nozzer the speed need to be too mutch slower, i want to print something with 0.2mm nozzle and PETG, but i`m afraid it will have to be at slow motion at this point. didn't have any of this with PLA, PLA with 0.2mm nozzle is normal.
Set the cooling fan to 10% . PETG doesnt like as much cooling as PLA. I print fine with 10% fan, 230c nozzle, 80c bed on my ender 3 v2 neo. Speed is 50mm/s
would this work with .6mm nozzle too Sir Chep?
can ya use hairspray for PETG ?
Man you saved me, I was using 260 c for the nozzle 😞
I use 275 with an all-metal hot end and 0.6mm steel nozzle. 235 with PLA+. The temperature ranges given by manufacturers are more like general guidelines.
How do you download the profile? I only see a model to download and it wants me to create an account to download that. Thanks
It’s included in the download as described on the page.
@@FilamentFriday Thanks for the update!
Hiya Chep I seem to be getting a server error trying to download "Filament Friday PETG Extra Fast 0.28 Cura Profile" all others working ...thought id let you know.
Thangs is working on it.
Should I be avoiding Petg+?
I either can’t search it or nobody like it?
Hi CHEP. My PET-G prints are melting a bit on the bottom, the build plate temperature is 60 C and the nozzle is 230 C. The higher the temperatures the worse it is. I'm using your parameters whilst printing. Do you have any idea what migh cause the melting problem? The printer is Ender 3 V2. Best regards from Polnd.
Adjust the temps to match your filament.
Would I change anything with the settings for the profile if I have a direct drive extruder, not a bowden?
Just reduce retraction to 1-2 mm
Hi CHEP.
I try to get u'r petg profil but i can't get it to load in cura slicer.any heads up 4 this?
Not sure. It should load when you hit import in profiles.
@@FilamentFriday i have try to do that but i get message that it dont work on my cura.i have all other profile u have out and no trouble on that but on petg i cant load the profil :/ i use 4.13 verson of cura
They are for ver 5.1 of Cura so that may be the issue.
Can you do nilon?
Not on a stock Ender
I cant get the profiles to load at all, failed to import the file, unable to read the file. Anyone have a good work around?
Most have no issues loading them so no workaround required.
i have the same problem, cura 4.20.7-mb, have to manually create it.
I have that printer. Well I have a few, but it's nice to have a similar one also. I don't do PETG that much. Never spent the time to tune it. I am excited to try. Though my surface is worn out and I replaced it with a similar surface. So it will be interesting to see if my new surface will stick as well.
How do you convert zip to 3mf?
Right click on .zip file and select extract.
@@pranavbhagat8191 still no 3mf file tho, the profile doesn't load in cura 🤷♂
@@pranavbhagat8191 All good, manually imput them. Thanks
Tested your "good" profile worked first try 5/5 also using your hyper för pla and cut of like 5h och som of my print
I will NEVER order directly from Creality again. My ender 6 arrived with a malformed extrusion and there customer service was very poor. They just kept telling me to keep waiting. 8 months later I finally got the part from them luckily the rest of the machine worked because the warranty was up by the time I could finally put it together. If they had just decided not to help me there would have been nothing I could have done. Of course they will go out of there way to help a larger youtube channel to make them look good but for the average customer good luck! From now on I will always order from a U.S based reseller so they will actually have customer support. I like the machines but never buy from them direct.
I got my original Ender 3 from Amazon. Never had an issue and even got the lead screw replaced without question. I'm subbed to you.
@@TechGorilla1987 oh yeah for sure that's what I'm saying buy it from Amazon or somewhere that will actually give you customer service, if something's not right you can at least send it back or something
Microcenter ftw. They have a 30 day return and their warranty (if you choose to buy) starts after the factory warranty ends! Which is kinda weird considering how none of their other warranties do this to my knowledge.
@@StuckOnAFireHydrant The thing is even if you buy a warranty all they have to do is not answer your emails and your screwed.
Thank you.
Please Extra Fast (0.20) Cura Profile 5.4 🙏🙏🙏
the files are saying error.
Only the 0.28 EF is broke. Thangs is working on it.
@@FilamentFriday for some reason with the PETG files they keep getting terrible first layers my z is great and everything and I have a Cr touch and my bed is leveled it's just once I run your file it ends up making a terrible first layer idky 😩 I wanted it to work so bad becsude I love the 0.28 file I wanted the extra fast 0.12 I also have a 0.4 nozzle
Hi, unfortunately temperature tower isn't reliable way to evaluate proper printing temp for filament because tower is usually small in x/y dimensions and so carriage don't reach target speed, e.g. 60 mm/s..As result print turns out great even in much lower temp. Apart from that printing tower is waste of time and material. It's better to just print target model with typical temp for PLA/PETG and adjust, especially if extruder starts to skip steps due to too low temp for the print speed.
Your welcome to run your own tests, but my towers work for me.
This guys right ya know….
Nice
I can't for the life of me get petg to print on my cr6 max I'm at was end with it
👍🏻👍🏻
Gonna make me go ack to Cura huh?! Ok....