Accurascale Class 37 - Complete Tear Down | oorail.com
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ม.ค. 2024
- #accurascale #d6702 #accurafail
The Accurascale Class 37 is a fantastic model of the English Electric Type 3. Unfortunately one of the six that I purchased has a problem. In this video we completely tear down the Accurascale Class 37 and troubleshoot the logic board, pickups and motor. This is part 2 of a three part series. Part 1 walks you through the problem and basic troubleshooting of the Class 37 and can be found at • Accurascale Class 37 I... . Part 3 will follow in a few weeks once we have the parts on hand necessary to fix the loco.
There is a complete summary of the various components at 1:16:24 ( 76:24 ) if you are just interested in the final result.
This is complete tear down process, I didn't edit anything out, so you can watch me figure it out as I go. - บันเทิง
![แขกคนแรกร้านแจ๊ส [ซี - เอมมี่] | iJazzKhunJang](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/XP6C9kulFfc/mqdefault.jpg)
I would be amazed if Accurascale took this loco back under warranty, because you have taken it apart. It`s not an electrical fault, but mechanical. First thing to do if a loco runs slow, is measure the current readings, easy done with a cheap multimeter. Hope you get success with Accruascale
Thanks. I actually have an INA219 board attached to each block on the layout, the readings with this were pretty normal. Its a good point though, I didn't check the current draw when the motor was directly powered. I'm not actually looking to send it back, but rather see if they will send me a replacement motor. I've had two bad motors recently from Hornby, a Class 56 and a Class 31, their support is pretty good about dispatching out replacement parts upon request. Whats interesting about the accurascale motor is there doesn't appear to be any unusual vibration or noise when the problem happens, which you usually get if there is a mechanical issue, like a gear problem etc.
A great hands-on video that you deserve much credit for sharing “warts & all”. You very nicely show an approach that tries to eliminate and then isolate the source of the issue.
As a builder of kit locos that (nowadays) use similar “sealed” type motors, I’m pretty sure that your conclusion is correct. However, I’m hoping that you will post a follow-up video showing dismantling and inspection of your motor. I don’t think you will find this too difficult and, based on my experiences, a quick clean of commutator and double-check that brushes are in good condition and correctly seated will hopefully resolve the issue. Good luck!
P.S. It’s nice to see your polite responses to those who only demonstrate their own ignorance in their comments.
I'd highly recommend watching a video posted by Torridon Road by Peter Dixon who looks into the motor issues and miraculously fixes the same problem you're having with your 37 at the moment.
Seems like this is quite a common fault with Accurascale locos, and I do believe this doesn't just apply to the 37.
Thanks, I'll go take a look at Peter's video later tonight. Yes it does seem like its emerging as a common fault.
Same problems with my ACC 37
chadwick model railway also has experience with them, hes on his 2nd and his buddy already needed a new decoder on his 2nd engine. so theres a big mistake with all of them.
Loved the video, it was very nice and in depths look at the trains inside parts and helped me figure out what i was doing!
Thanks and glad it helped you out.
This is just an observation from repairing models as a person who hates waste:
The motor intermittently running slowly is usually a brush / commutator issue - on open frame motors you can see the sparks and sometimes a ring of white fire ( Old Hornby X04, old Graham Farish and Fleischmann N gauge motors) - this is spiking the power consumption and generating a lot of heat - leave it too long then a motor will internally meltdown. Oddly they rarely smoke unless there is a lot of oil involved.
When you bench run a motor out of a model it very quicky warms and will become hotter than expected (Sometimes too hot too handle). It is harder to see on can motors but they will heat quickly which is an indication of the problem. Inability to run at a set speed is another indicator. On open motors stripping and cleaning the brushes and commutator slot gaps often settles them down. Closed can motors are a pig as I think there must be tools to dis-engage the brushes for assembly and dis-assembly as they can be damaged if you just pull them apart - fly wheels are also bonded on so prevent access - sometimes you can locate a hole in the motor and blast it with electrical circuit board cleaner then spin it up - repeat until it settles. Carefully oil bearings after using cleaner. (just enough oil to make them glisten - do not flood) Sometimes this can resurrect a motor - helpful if you are a long way from spares.
why strip down a brand new loco, when this issue is covered in so many videos inc Chadwick (Charlie Bishop). Its a design / QC issue and the loco should be sent straight back to the retailer or Accurascale if purchased direct. By opening the model and messing about with the inner working you loose any chance of a warranty replacement.
Main reason is to maintain control of the repair process and there is never a guarantee of a warranty replacement. By tearing it down and isolating the problem to a specific part, I can ask the manufacturer for a replacement part. The loco stays with me and I guarantee that I still have D6702. Since this loco is sold out everywhere, a return to the retailer is most likely going to result in a refund and no loco.
If they send it back to the manufacturer for repair, aside from taking weeks or longer, now your loco has been messed with by multiple people, increasing the chances that detailing parts are lost etc. If the manufacturer doesn't have the part or can't figure out the problem, the loco could sit there for months. There was a comment earlier that Accurascale had someones Deltic for months. I live in the USA, so with international shipping the whole process is going to be even longer.
By tearing it down, worst case, the manufacturer doesn't have the parts, won't ship the parts or might ask me to purchase the parts. These days you can 3D print most plastic parts, motors are easy to source and even PCBs can be produced cheaply using services like PCBway. Charlie is on his third loco, he has no idea if its a repair, new or refurbished replacement. By tearing it down, it opens up opportunities to make some enhancements and correct design issues that could become a problem in the future. Its not for everyone, but after watching that Hornby TV series, I feel I'm better off repairing things myself! :)
The elephant in the room is that you shouldn’t have to. It’s ok designing these models in CAD with scores of separate detail parts, but if the manufacturing plant is still cranking out substandard crap then its frailties are going to be royally exposed very quickly. It’s like designing a Lamborghini and outsourcing the build to Fiat.
Meanwhile Bachmann and Heljan continue to pump out fine looking models that work properly.
Designers don’t always make for great engineers.
i love the videos!! very soothing voice as well
You should have contacted Accurascale and they would have talked you through fault finding your loco. I live in Australia and had a problem with my loco it turned out to be the motor which they helped me fault find in two hours. It was drawing 800mA which indicated a shorting motor. They sent me a replacement motor as it was quicker for me to replace it. The problem with the motors appeared to be that they have been fitted with the wrong grade of brush clogging up the commutator slots and shorting them out. Which is a motor manufacturing fault, not Accurascale. I have found Accurascale to be very helpful and cannot fault them. All the best with your loco.
Thanks for a great video,i tend to have a derailment issue down my helixs
Hello
I very much enjoyed watching this video, it’s very informative and will no doubt help other people in the future.
I believe the ‘hall’ sensors you have discovered attached to each bogie are only employed on sound fitted versions, these sensors detect when the bogies are rotated and once enabled using a function button produces wheel screech sound as the locomotive traverses curves or turnouts.
Really hope Accurascale have stopped burying their heads in the sand regarding these motor issues and have found a correction. Happened to three of my deltics (one of which has been with Accurascale warranty since April 23 so hopefully they are figuring it out.)
Agreed, seems like a lot of people are having issues. That seems a very long time (8+ months?) for them to have the loco, are they having issues with parts?
I had 5 of these, they are all sold n gone. But the bachmann plux 22 loco is also a fragile loco to work with. Early up to the 21 pin bachmann 37s are the best. As a modeller u can work with them . All the accurscale and plux 22 locos are for the box boys and cheque book modellers..
I have Loch Lomond 37043 I really like it but it’s not without its faults. The decoder had to go back initially as it didn’t play all the sounds. And it won’t run over my points if I run it with the coupler and snow ploughs as is given as an option….the coupler has now been removed at one end. I’m seeing more and more ‘problem’ videos around this model. I have a 31 & 66 on pre order so fingers crossed they iron everything out or it could be a bit of a disaster for them.
Although not a fan of Accurascale due to my past experience I would suggest that before you embark on a 'Teardown' you read the manufacturers instructions on how to remove the body. Its a shame that the trend is to take a look and repair yourself rather than return to the manufacturer. Regards, Geoff.
Calling the generic diagram and caption "instructions" is a bit generous. One side of the clips weren't disengaging the way they should but no worries got there in the end. Servicing and repairs is part and parcel of the hobby mate, that manufacturer warranty runs out pretty quickly and these things are definitely not built to last like the old Tri-ang locos.
Many thanks for a very informative video. Any chance when you shoot the next part, that you could zoom the camera a little closer? Regards Charlie
Fascinating though this is, the takeaway for the vast majority of us has to be ‘Don’t buy an Accurascale class 37’. Personally this whole issue has put me right off purchasing anything from them.
Reading the comments, it definitely seems like its not isolated to the Class 37, with several people reporting they had similar issues with the Deltics. I've got a couple of Class 31s on order, between this motor issue and the less than modeller friendly access to service the thing, I'm thinking of cutting that back to maybe just one or two. I have got a couple of their Irish Railway Models Class A locomotives, those run really well, no issues, so I'm thinking they've got a bad batch of motors in their supply chain, hopefully its something they can sort out.
You have to unclip the drive shafts from the motor and then unclip the bogies plates off and the bogies will drop down
That sensor is for the sound fitted version for automatic flange squeal
Ah yes that makes sense, thanks!
Something I forgot to mention is that you have to be careful with the motor leads as they seem to be cramped under the board and might touch the flywheel on that side. Good luck and let us know how it goes.
When taking off the body you're best off using four thin glue applicators to pop the body.
Going loco down in Accuripoco. 😂
Is this problem with all the class 37 including the sectorization ones?
Seems to be an issue with the class 37 in general not just the 37/0, from the comments it seems other models, like the Deltic also had problems. So far, I've only had an issue with this 37, but this issue didn't come up until I had ran it in for over an hour. Most manufacturers do a 30-second or so motor test at the factory, and depending on the manufacturer, it often seems to be before the motor is placed in the loco.
One thing you did not try was a drop of oil on the motor bearings. Those may be a batch of motors that had been lying in a warehouse before they got in the production line of the locos and has dried out bearings. The motor at that power, with no load should be screaming fast. I could see the line on the flywheel which should be a blur if it ran at speed. You also need to get a good soldering iron. At least a 35 watt iron. That pencil iron is useless. Use liquid, no clean flux. The stuff you are using is corrosive.
Thanks. I'll give that a go tonight and see if it helps. The soldering iron is actually a 75W SMD station, so it's not so bad. Thanks for the tip on the liquid solder flux, I ordered some this morning!
@Oorail Great. I think the iron has a tip that is too small ... if it is meant for SMD work. Try a normal iron. I saw how you had a hard time getting those wires off. Usually, wires don't go bad like that but these particular wires looked too fine. It is possible that they are not sized for the current draw of that motor. That is an easy fix. Just put 2 new, heavier leads there. But the motor bearings may be the likely cause. If not, maybe the magnets inside is losing the strength. Very unlikely but then, you will need a new motor. Now, that is a pain because you have to remove the weights that is another story!
Had similar issue on my class 92 high power draw and would only crawl around the track sent it back after about 4 weeks got a replacement sent back,seems the motors are the weak point in their models not just Accurascale I’m having same issues with a new Hornby hst so the problem seems down to China who manufacture the models.
that was a painful drama getting the body off....tip try 2 pieces of plastic!
Please get a better camera or zoom in, I've a very large 4k TV and can hardly see any details
Not very modeller friendly, no way would I attempt this.
I would steer clear if any models that have plastic 'clips' rather than screws to retain the body.
Welcome to the age of “detail over running quality”. Heljan/ Bachmann: please please don’t be suckered in to this nonsense.
Truth is, if someone sent a Bachmann 37 round a layout at a show, 99% of viewers wouldn’t know if it was Bachmann or Accurascale. Except for the fact it made it to the fiddleyard without stalling or coming off the track.
It's painful to see you trying to desolder these wires with the wrong tip and insufficient heat. I suggest using a small spade bit and around 750 F. You are far more likely to damage other components with prolonged contact at low temp. It should take a second or less with the right heat.
Thanks for taking the time to respond. However what you are suggesting is not the best approach. Since this is an SMD board, using an SMD tip is a safer approach as those are designed for use on those pads and allows for the heat to be focused directly on the wire. Since we have no idea what type of solder or any additional chemicals that were used on the original solder joints, starting out at a lower temperature is a better approach as you don't know what the right heat actually is. If you go too high initially, the solder will melt too quickly and you can easily damage the PCB. The risk of prolonged contact at a lower temperature is pretty low, especially since my finger was going to feel it long before any damage to components or tracks on the board. Since the solder melted pretty quickly at 450 F, 750 F would have definitely been way too high.
Please watch Peter do it on Torridon Road.
@@tommilton5753The solder melts at around 450 F, using a higher temperature will work but is unnecessary and you run the risk of damaging the PCB. It's not welding. The original wiring needs to be replaced too, too thin and easily breaks.
I agree with Tom. Learn to solder/desolder properly. 3 minutes to desolder 1 wire which should take 1 second. There are plenty of helpful soldering tutorials on TH-cam. Higher temp for less time is the way to go. Also dipping your iron directly into flux will destroy the tip very rapidly.
@@TheSharkey22 Thanks for taking the time to comment. Its rosin flux, so its not going to cause any issues for the soldering iron tip. As for the temperature, these are surface mount modern PCBs, not perf board, so its better to start at a lower temperature and work your way up. What wasn't captured on the video was me cranking the temperature up slowly until it melted. The melting point of the solder is around 450 F, but going in at 750 F like Tom suggests, very likely going to melt it too quickly and increase the risk for damaging components. Some online advice from electrical engineers - "It's wise to start at a reasonable temperature and then make small adjustments. If you start at 350°F and find that the solder isn't melting, you can gradually increase the temperature. Smaller increments (like 10-20°F) are generally better as they provide more control.", " If you're working with particularly heat-sensitive components or a delicate PCB, starting lower and gradually increasing the temperature might be safer to avoid damage." and "While starting too low might be inefficient as it won't melt the solder, it's safer for the components."