I fitted P4 wheels to my 37 on Thursday and had a nightmare with it until I realised that the bogie sides were attached to the keeper plate, if I'd seen it before, your video would have saved my an awful lot of swearing :)
Thanks for that that’s very informative I had problems like this with the deltic it would not go over no points at all even peco I gave a mix depending on what I could afford at the time lol
Greetings to my 'like' supporter; for yesterday's comment; even I need friends. I don't know what gets out of this computer so I kept message short. Would like to have added that the near quote about the wheel and the turnout standards being 'a system' is from a prototype track engineer - a very bright man. Also (Pete) it would have been a good idea to have removed a wheel from the offending loco and inspected it on the crossing of the turnout before alteration. Always inspect; if you don't know where you are you can't meaningfully move. My suspicion is modern release loco wheel standards sit uneasily on a lot of track standards - note no names are mentioned! Certainly, re-wheeling my old stock with currently available wheels has been persistently unsuccessful and left me looking at making my own wheels and axles. Wrenn supplied replacement wheels longer ago than any of us care to remember. They worked superbly. My own wheels copied from Wrenn worked well. The hard part is making new axles. Axle wear, bearing wear, and why, is a huge subject. Time to shut-up. Hope this reads OK. Spare a thought for me: yesterday, in my own amateur way, I was paring down 1970s/1980s Minitrix wheel flanges. Now where dd I put those Peppermints!
hi peter, great vid again , superb explanation , very very well put across , your becoming our go to guy for troubleshooting , many kind regards , john
morning Mr D. Blimey, I don't understand why so many folks take the bogie frames apart on these locos... I had to adjust the roller bearings on mine, one wasn't in place correctly, So when I came to remove the keeper plate, I got the whole thing off in one piece just using thin jewelers screw driver. The only thing that came off was the little brake rod you mentioned, which I just popped back on afterwards... But when I did mine, the side frames, keeper etc all come off in one... Really not sure if that's just my model at this stage 😂
Hi mate, yes you can get them off with the keeper plate but I thought the chains would hamper the access in getting the wheels out and its already quite fiddly getting the pickup wipers in place afterwards. So just thought show how to remove the frames altogether All the best Peter
Very helpful video Peter, as always. Accurascale will be offering you a job soon, lol. I might do this to my Bachmann 37, it may help stop derailing on tight curves.
Hi Peter, well explained but out of my comfort zone I’ve got the same problem you had with one of your 37 motors and another that don’t even move sound & lights work I’m in conversation with Accurascale at the moment cheers Al
Hello Peter, thanks for the tip regarding the gauge checker, I have just bought one. I use Hornby track, mainly express points and some of the smaller radius points. Hornby straights and curves (either 3rd or 4th radius) along with some flexible track for the larger radius curves. I prefer Hornby track mainly because of the fishplates, being a much tighter fit than Peco. I have the DCC back to back gauge 145 and if I have trouble with wagons or coaches derailing I always first check the back to back on the wheels. But I nearly always find the DCC gauge will not fit in, so have to force it in and of course it will make the wheels a tighter fit to the track, if that makes sense? Now when gauge arrives I will be able to adjust wheel back to backs to what is more suitable (according to Peter) for my Hornby track, time will tell? I must admit I do not have any derailment problems with my collection of Hornby/Bachmann/Heljan/Dapol/Murphy's and now 2 Accurascale 37s. I've never noticed any clicking noise when locos cross the frogs but I will now have a listen. There is no way I could do what you have done stripping loco to alter B to Bs, but I can on my wagons and coaches, so again thanks for the info. Bill.
Hi Bill, yes it's a funny thing, everything's fine if run straight through and I don't have any curve points. Most of my locos run fine, Hornby of corse, Bachmann, Heljan, Hattons and some Dapol. Others just wanted to ride over the frog when point was set to turn. On rolling stock I found they were a lot less accurate back to back settings than on the locos even on the same wagon. Hope the gauge works for you. All the best Peter
Thanks Peter. A really helpful video. My brand new 37 kept derailing on left-hand points. Just at one bogie. Had me totally baffled. So I stripped it down as per your video, expecting that maybe the back-to-back was slightly out on the leading wheel-set. Turns out one of the bearings on the trailing wheel-set wasn't properly seated in its slot, so the wheel-set was too wobbly. That's how it must have come from the factory! Fitted it properly - she now runs like a charm. It astounds me that basic mistakes like that aren't spotted during the final quality control checks at the factory or when received by Accurascale! Do they test the models they receive? Also - they could have designed a more user-friendly, practical design for the bogies that allows much easier removal of the keeper plate for routine maintenance. It's a right headache needing to do it this way. In the end, I snipped off the two metal crossbars after I'd wasted too much time faffing around trying to pop them back into their holes. I also had a separate problem with the bogie chains occasionally snagging and causing derailments, so eventually I removed them too. The chains are more hassle than they're worth in my opinion. Likewise, another small detail (a tiny bracket) on the bogie-end of the diesel tanks/weights occasionally snagged the bogies on tight turns, so I removed that too. Finally, my 37 is fitted with kadee couplers with NEM fittings. The couplings get very close to the buffers on radius 2 points, regardless of what length kadee I fit. Luckily I haven't had them actually clash yet. Some things worth checking. I love the detail and thought that have gone into these Accurascale scale models, such as pre-installed DCC stay-alives. But they do need to make their models easier to maintain for the average modeller, even if that means sacrificing some small details particularly in places where it never gets seen. Given all the niggles I've had with the class 37, I've already cancelled the Class 50 that I had on pre-order. At the end of the day, I just want my locos to run reliability on my layout without the constant need for fiddling or having to fix mistakes made by the manufacturer or supplier. Keep the videos coming. Your optimism for the worlds greatest (and most frustrating!) hobby is infectious. Thanks
Hi James, that's great to know I have been of help. Yes it's a bit of a trade off to have such detail when it comes to servicing/repairs etc. Even my Cavalax 56 needed the back to back altered as again it did not like my Hornby points but now runs perfectly and it was much easer to do as the bogie frames do not come of but slide apart so you can take the wheels out. So much better. When it comes to having detail and running out of the box, I can't knock Bachmann. I have their new tooled 47 and apart from adding a lot of detail pipes to the buffer beam to compete the look, it runs perfectly. I don't have one of their new 37s to compare with Accurascales but if they did one in a scheme I want then I will get one Im sure. Again thank you and all the best Peter
Peter: enjoyed your video as ever. I wrote a reply to 'Geord..' but never got through; might have been too long. There is no email here to get it to you otherwise. Anyhow, any 'clunk' is a red flag. Are you sure the wheel standards match the turnout standards? The wheel/turnout check gauge are a system. At the very least the check rail positions the opposite wheel so it does not pick the crossing (Clunk!), while the wheel tread must be wide enough so it is firmly on the closure rail/wing rail while crossing the crossing gap. If it is not the wheel drops (Clunk!) and if the wheel is narrow enough it might fall to the inside of the rail and jam - and that really is a 'Clunk'. Best wishes to you and to 'Geord..' Peter
Hi, so the chain is held on by small wire that's been twisted around to form the join and the excess cut back to that join. I found something similar by striping of the outer casing of multi core wire, use just the one strand of that wire as it should be fine enough to again put through the last chain link and the attach it to either the location on the bogie or from the metal arm. Have your thin piece of wire long enough so you can do the twisting and when you have a good enough twisted joint cut the excess of. Hope this makes sense Cheers Peter
I fitted P4 wheels to my 37 on Thursday and had a nightmare with it until I realised that the bogie sides were attached to the keeper plate, if I'd seen it before, your video would have saved my an awful lot of swearing :)
Very good peter now we know, you are brave though. Well done just bought me one of these smashing model.
Thanks for that that’s very informative
I had problems like this with the deltic it would not go over no points at all even peco I gave a mix depending on what I could afford at the time lol
Thank you Peter for showing us how to separate the bogies and wheel sets. Another splendidly delivered and helpful video. Regards Julian
Greetings to my 'like' supporter; for yesterday's comment; even I need friends.
I don't know what gets out of this computer so I kept message short. Would like to have added that the near quote about the wheel and the turnout standards being 'a system' is from a prototype track engineer - a very bright man. Also (Pete) it would have been a good idea to have removed a wheel from the offending loco and inspected it on the crossing of the turnout before alteration. Always inspect; if you don't know where you are you can't meaningfully move. My suspicion is modern release loco wheel standards sit uneasily on a lot of track standards - note no names are mentioned! Certainly, re-wheeling my old stock with currently available wheels has been persistently unsuccessful and left me looking at making my own wheels and axles. Wrenn supplied replacement wheels longer ago than any of us care to remember. They worked superbly. My own wheels copied from Wrenn worked well. The hard part is making new axles. Axle wear, bearing wear, and why, is a huge subject. Time to shut-up. Hope this reads OK.
Spare a thought for me: yesterday, in my own amateur way, I was paring down 1970s/1980s Minitrix wheel flanges. Now where dd I put those Peppermints!
Great tutorial and work, Peter. You talked and walked us through it brilliantly!
Great vid Peter. Useful and enjoyable at the same time.
Regards…. Steve 👍👍
hi peter, great vid again , superb explanation , very very well put across , your becoming our go to guy for troubleshooting , many kind regards , john
Another great informative video Peter,thanks. 👍
morning Mr D.
Blimey, I don't understand why so many folks take the bogie frames apart on these locos...
I had to adjust the roller bearings on mine, one wasn't in place correctly,
So when I came to remove the keeper plate, I got the whole thing off in one piece just using thin jewelers screw driver. The only thing that came off was the little brake rod you mentioned, which I just popped back on afterwards...
But when I did mine, the side frames, keeper etc all come off in one... Really not sure if that's just my model at this stage 😂
Hi mate, yes you
can get them off with the keeper plate but I thought the chains would hamper the access in getting the wheels out and its already quite fiddly getting the pickup wipers in place afterwards. So just thought show how to remove the frames altogether
All the best Peter
Very helpful video Peter, as always. Accurascale will be offering you a job soon, lol. I might do this to my Bachmann 37, it may help stop derailing on tight curves.
Yeah, good one Peter.
Hi Peter, well explained but out of my comfort zone I’ve got the same problem you had with one of your 37 motors and another that don’t even move sound & lights work I’m in conversation with Accurascale at the moment cheers Al
Oh dear sorry to hear that Al, recon new replacement models are the answer
Peter
Hello Peter, thanks for the tip regarding the gauge checker, I have just bought one.
I use Hornby track, mainly express points and some of the smaller radius points.
Hornby straights and curves (either 3rd or 4th radius) along with some flexible track for the larger radius curves.
I prefer Hornby track mainly because of the fishplates, being a much tighter fit than Peco.
I have the DCC back to back gauge 145 and if I have trouble with wagons or coaches derailing I always first check the back to back on the wheels.
But I nearly always find the DCC gauge will not fit in, so have to force it in and of course it will make the wheels a tighter fit to the track, if that makes sense?
Now when gauge arrives I will be able to adjust wheel back to backs to what is more suitable (according to Peter) for my Hornby track, time will tell?
I must admit I do not have any derailment problems with my collection of Hornby/Bachmann/Heljan/Dapol/Murphy's and now 2 Accurascale 37s.
I've never noticed any clicking noise when locos cross the frogs but I will now have a listen.
There is no way I could do what you have done stripping loco to alter B to Bs, but I can on my wagons and coaches, so again thanks for the info. Bill.
Hi Bill, yes it's a funny thing, everything's fine if run straight through and I don't have any curve points. Most of my locos run fine, Hornby of corse, Bachmann, Heljan, Hattons and some Dapol. Others just wanted to ride over the frog when point was set to turn. On rolling stock I found they were a lot less accurate back to back settings than on the locos even on the same wagon. Hope the gauge works for you.
All the best Peter
Thanks Peter. A really helpful video. My brand new 37 kept derailing on left-hand points. Just at one bogie. Had me totally baffled. So I stripped it down as per your video, expecting that maybe the back-to-back was slightly out on the leading wheel-set. Turns out one of the bearings on the trailing wheel-set wasn't properly seated in its slot, so the wheel-set was too wobbly. That's how it must have come from the factory! Fitted it properly - she now runs like a charm.
It astounds me that basic mistakes like that aren't spotted during the final quality control checks at the factory or when received by Accurascale! Do they test the models they receive? Also - they could have designed a more user-friendly, practical design for the bogies that allows much easier removal of the keeper plate for routine maintenance. It's a right headache needing to do it this way. In the end, I snipped off the two metal crossbars after I'd wasted too much time faffing around trying to pop them back into their holes.
I also had a separate problem with the bogie chains occasionally snagging and causing derailments, so eventually I removed them too. The chains are more hassle than they're worth in my opinion. Likewise, another small detail (a tiny bracket) on the bogie-end of the diesel tanks/weights occasionally snagged the bogies on tight turns, so I removed that too. Finally, my 37 is fitted with kadee couplers with NEM fittings. The couplings get very close to the buffers on radius 2 points, regardless of what length kadee I fit. Luckily I haven't had them actually clash yet. Some things worth checking.
I love the detail and thought that have gone into these Accurascale scale models, such as pre-installed DCC stay-alives. But they do need to make their models easier to maintain for the average modeller, even if that means sacrificing some small details particularly in places where it never gets seen. Given all the niggles I've had with the class 37, I've already cancelled the Class 50 that I had on pre-order.
At the end of the day, I just want my locos to run reliability on my layout without the constant need for fiddling or having to fix mistakes made by the manufacturer or supplier.
Keep the videos coming. Your optimism for the worlds greatest (and most frustrating!) hobby is infectious. Thanks
Hi James, that's great to know I have been of help. Yes it's a bit of a trade off to have such detail when it comes to servicing/repairs etc. Even my Cavalax 56 needed the back to back altered as again it did not like my Hornby points but now runs perfectly and it was much easer to do as the bogie frames do not come of but slide apart so you can take the wheels out. So much better. When it comes to having detail and running out of the box, I can't knock Bachmann. I have their new tooled 47 and apart from adding a lot of detail pipes to the buffer beam to compete the look, it runs perfectly. I don't have one of their new 37s to compare with Accurascales but if they did one in a scheme I want then I will get one Im sure.
Again thank you and all the best Peter
I found the bogie frames a bit tricky, especially refitting the rods each end on reassembly
Peter: enjoyed your video as ever. I wrote a reply to 'Geord..' but never got through; might have been too long. There is no email here to get it to you otherwise.
Anyhow, any 'clunk' is a red flag. Are you sure the wheel standards match the turnout standards? The wheel/turnout check gauge are a system. At the very least the check rail positions the opposite wheel so it does not pick the crossing (Clunk!), while the wheel tread must be wide enough so it is firmly on the closure rail/wing rail while crossing the crossing gap. If it is not the wheel drops (Clunk!) and if the wheel is narrow enough it might fall to the inside of the rail and jam - and that really is a 'Clunk'.
Best wishes to you and to 'Geord..'
Peter
Not having that prob with Peco track
My chain has come off my Accurascale class 37 :( How do I put the chain back on?
Hi, so the chain is held on by small wire that's been twisted around to form the join and the excess cut back to that join. I found something similar by striping of the outer casing of multi core wire, use just the one strand of that wire as it should be fine enough to again put through the last chain link and the attach it to either the location on the bogie or from the metal arm. Have your thin piece of wire long enough so you can do the twisting and when you have a good enough twisted joint cut the excess of. Hope this makes sense
Cheers Peter
Sorry don't get it, why are you having to do this? bk in day when Lima locos were £40 fair enough, but this should be flawless?
It probably is flawless on Peco track but I have Hornby track