He must lives in a Northern State where there's alot Snow/ice because I haven't seen that much Rust since I moved from Ft Devens MA, Fitchburg, Leominster, Ayer, and Shirley area.....that Salt on those roads will rust your car out if you don't get the under coating.
By the way Great Video, step by step I have a 2007 is250 I'll be using the same style of Brakes, where and Brand/Store did you order them from purchasing them from Ebay.
Great video - big help! I was able to use this video to complete the rear brakes job with $50 Autozone pads and about $100 in Walmart & OReilly Auto parts tools. With that said it involved a lift with jack stands you have to buy and taking the tire off and then carefully removing the pads. Opening the bleeder and compressing the pad with a tool from the store then closing the bleeder. REMEMBER to top off brake fluid after putting the car back together if you choose to do this! It’s possible to not open the brake line bleeder if you don’t feel like it. I have seen different things on the internet. Anyhow. Car works, no brake lite, the old pads were bad and did need replacement so I guess we’re good to go! Having done 2 clutches, CV joints, brakes on other cars, and a head gasket, brakes on a Lexus were a cinch. To the not as experienced guy who hasn’t done their own oil changes before I might recommend bringing the vehicle to a cheaper shop but it’s up to you. This video was a big help though! I appreciate you setting these up and posting them
You can try to bleed brake caliper, but sounds like you brake piston stuck inside caliper. Make sure dust covers is not worn on a piston. Maybe you will need to replace whole brake caliper.
I stopped at 2:23, I couldn't take it out, the card was very tight, I found it from carfax, the brake disc and brake pad were replaced by the first owner in lexus, and the lexus staff didn't apply grease?
Great video the only thing I didn't like is hitting the ratchet wrench with a hammer, outch! You can break your ratchet ! Better to use ring spanner and hammer to loosen the nuts then use ratchet. Great work though.
Hi I just finished change my rotor and brakes pads but the break is not full stop N I tried to release the fluid but still not fulling stop when you step on the breaks
So I found out i had to buy a part to compress the brake piston.. i thought tht was stopping me frm sliding the rotor down to take off.. i cant get the caliper off the bottom wont budge .. wht do u suggest??
@@MrChuck2583 I compress brake piston with big flat screwdriver, the bottom pin was stuck on this caliper as well, I wiggle it out, you can try to spray more WD40 and wait for a bit then try it again.
Hey Mike, my question is , did you use the c clamp for the break cylinder to make room for the second pad? I can’t move it by hand and I made sure the handbrake is not on too..
Mine is so rusted a 20lb sledge couldn't move the caliper to tilt. The seal is torn. I have the same leaky strut, I replaced it :lol:, then I found the brakes. I also noticed it was terrible in the snow last season. I don't think the rear brakes were working at all, the pads have no wear. It would push the car and fight the ABS. Just going to order new pads and and calipers.
@@mikes.garage According to google maps, it sat at the dealer for at least 18 months :lol:., The dealer did replace the pads though (the rotor was new, but that was two years ago). He probably ripped the seal doing the work or didn't bother greasing it. That is why I like doing stuff myself. Another car I bought the dealer replaced rear pads but greased with axle grease, the boot had all holes in it. Almost as bad as this - a 90s Tbird.
@@alb12345672 both rear calipers seized but i picked mine for 4500$ certified at a nissan dealer ship . US car but driven to canada. still kinda unsure if i am happy with it
My guide bolts were stuck as fuck, my bottom sliding pin wouldn’t let the caliper go so I couldn’t grease it or remove the entire caliper, so i just did everything else just not that
6:45 ... i only have one of those brake pins on both rear brakes. I put the pin on the top slot. Am i the only one who has 1 brake pin and not 2 lol? Scary.
Turn that roller behind the spring and then try to put rotor on. If rotor is already installed, remove that rubber cover and turn that roller through the hole a little, then spin rotor make sure it's not locked and spins freely.
That brake hardware should be replaced or the pins should be cleaned up to polished finish with a wire wheel or you can get uneven pad wear and you should have a thin layer of brake lube on all the contact points. Not bad but not pro.
Thanks for posting this! I was able to do these repairs on my car myself and it saved me a lot of money and now I know how to do it in the future.
Thank you for watching!
Was curious what size bolt you used to remove the brake rotor?
Very helpful. Tyvm worked perfectly Lexus IS250 2006 AWD.
Man, you have provided all the details that were missing in another video I watched, well done.
Thank you Luo!
Great video Mike. I like how there's just the relaxing music with captions as you're working.🖒Thanks for taking the time to show us how it's done.
Thank you for watching!
Man you’re awesome! Thank you so much for showing this video and the steps necessary. I can save some money now! 🙏🙌🏻
Nice job ! suggestion put some grease on pad or pin at certain place (like where piston sits ) its help for squeeks and for staying free !
Thank you, I will keep in mind you suggestions 😉
Watch the clip placement though. They can be tricky. Especially the aftermarket replacements.
Thanks for sharing! Although this seems highly complicated for me to try for the first time.
Thank you for watching!
How did you slide the caliper to put in the second pad? My caliper won’t move for me to slide in the second brake pad.
You need to press caliper piston in more.
@@mikes.garage thank you
Hey. I noticed you used a bolt to losen the rotor. Would really appreciate it if you’d be able tell me the size and the type of bolt u used?
@@tlama343 Hi, Flanged Bolt M8-1.25
You did it again Mike... Another detailed log, thank you.
Thank you for following me and watching my videos!☺️
Excellent teaching
He must lives in a Northern State where there's alot Snow/ice because I haven't seen that much Rust since I moved from Ft Devens MA, Fitchburg, Leominster, Ayer, and Shirley area.....that Salt on those roads will rust your car out if you don't get the under coating.
I live in Canada in Calgary. Today we had -31 afternoon 😬
By the way Great Video, step by step I have a 2007 is250 I'll be using the same style of Brakes, where and Brand/Store did you order them from purchasing them from Ebay.
@@mikes.garage Dang I cant live like that anymore, I live in Seattle and I visited BC Vancouver all the time but it never got that cold.
@@cjtheus I do not blame you) I myself want to move from here)
@@cjtheus Thanks! No, I ordered from Rockauto.com
Great video - big help! I was able to use this video to complete the rear brakes job with $50 Autozone pads and about $100 in Walmart & OReilly Auto parts tools. With that said it involved a lift with jack stands you have to buy and taking the tire off and then carefully removing the pads. Opening the bleeder and compressing the pad with a tool from the store then closing the bleeder. REMEMBER to top off brake fluid after putting the car back together if you choose to do this! It’s possible to not open the brake line bleeder if you don’t feel like it. I have seen different things on the internet.
Anyhow. Car works, no brake lite, the old pads were bad and did need replacement so I guess we’re good to go! Having done 2 clutches, CV joints, brakes on other cars, and a head gasket, brakes on a Lexus were a cinch. To the not as experienced guy who hasn’t done their own oil changes before I might recommend bringing the vehicle to a cheaper shop but it’s up to you. This video was a big help though! I appreciate you setting these up and posting them
Thank you for your review!
Helpful & informational video. Thank you.
Thank you for watching!
For the bolt to take off the rotors is a Dorman part #980-420D at oreillys
thanks man
Great DIY)!!!
Thank you! )
Careful using that bolt off the brake caliper assembly, had to make a trip to auto zone after mine was stripped using it to free the rotor
My caliper is seized on the pin, any suggestions on how to get it off?
Try WD40 plus hammer plus vise-grip pliers.
Great video! And shopping list!
Very nice.
Any tricks to get the brake piston to go back? Mine will not move. Bleed brakes? Remove the cap on the brake reservoir?
You can try to bleed brake caliper, but sounds like you brake piston stuck inside caliper. Make sure dust covers is not worn on a piston. Maybe you will need to replace whole brake caliper.
Great video and very in depth!
Thanks! 😊
Very, very well done. Thank you!
Thank you for watching! ☺️
Badass beat and clear understanding crisp video 💖💪🏽🎸
Thanks! 😊
I stopped at 2:23, I couldn't take it out, the card was very tight, I found it from carfax, the brake disc and brake pad were replaced by the first owner in lexus, and the lexus staff didn't apply grease?
Could be possible. You need to heating it up with a torch to get it out then.
Great video the only thing I didn't like is hitting the ratchet wrench with a hammer, outch! You can break your ratchet !
Better to use ring spanner and hammer to loosen the nuts then use ratchet.
Great work though.
Thank you for watching! I will not going to hammer ratchet anymore. 😉
Is any grease gonna work or it need to be brake lubricant
It is advisable to use a brake lubricant, as some lubricants can corrode rubber.
Mike's Garage I didn’t use grease at all is that gonna be a problem?
if there was old grease, then no, and if it was not, then over time the brake may jam
Does this require bleeding the brake fluid out?
This is not necessarily.
SIZE OF BOLT TO REMOVE THE ROTOR ?
I used 14 mm socket. Thread M10 1.5
1:44 do I have to push the piston all the way back ? Can I just push it back enough for the old pad to slide out ?
Push it all the way back
Hi I just finished change my rotor and brakes pads but the break is not full stop
N I tried to release the fluid but still not fulling stop when you step on the breaks
Sounds like you have air in the line somewhere. You need to bleed all brake lines.
@@mikes.garage i did that still not fully stop when step on the break
@@thuamu3831 maybe brake vacuum booster need to be replace.
Niice job!! But im jst need to change the pads not rotors.. so jst remove the pins to replace, correct??
Correct! Also squeeze the calipers and make sure caliper sliding pins has grease. Thank you for watching!
So I found out i had to buy a part to compress the brake piston.. i thought tht was stopping me frm sliding the rotor down to take off.. i cant get the caliper off the bottom wont budge .. wht do u suggest??
@@MrChuck2583 I compress brake piston with big flat screwdriver, the bottom pin was stuck on this caliper as well, I wiggle it out, you can try to spray more WD40 and wait for a bit then try it again.
@@MrChuck2583 you may have piston stuck inside caliper, if so you will need to replace brake caliper too.
I was able to compress the piston afta I hammered it down.. jst need wiggle room to swing it bak up to put on the brake pads..
Why did you use threadlock? I am doing my own brakes and everyone is telling ne not to use it.
yeah don't use thread locker you don't need it. Doing up the bolts nice and tight is enough.
My bottom sliding pin is completely seized
You may need to replace caliper with caliper bracket
Why did you use threadlock? I am doing my own brakes and everyone is telling me not to use it.
This so that the bolt does not come loose.
I don’t think my brake pads fit? Any solutions
You need to make sure caliper piston all the way in.
Hey Mike, my question is , did you use the c clamp for the break cylinder to make room for the second pad? I can’t move it by hand and I made sure the handbrake is not on too..
I used big flat screwdriver. Maybe you have damaged dust cover and your brake piston get stuck.
What size bolt is needed?
I used 14 mm socket. Thread M10 1.5
@@mikes.garage bro I used M10 1.5 didn’t work
It’s fault answer
Do you have to take out the break fuild? I didn’t saw that happening but I want to make sure
You can check you reservoir, if it's full you may need to extract some of it. Or you can pump your brake pedal after installing brake on each wheel.
@@mikes.garage thank you
No because you're not doing any hydraulic work so no need to mess with fluid levels ....
Hi Mike , anytime replace the rear pads, Do we have to replay rotors as well , Thanks!
I wanna do mine
Hi, you need to replace rotors if they badly rusty, vibrate while braking or worn our to minimum thickness which is written on a brake rotor.
How can you get the brake pad out if its stuck?
Try to spray it with WD40 and then bend it with screwdriver or hammer them out carefully
Mine is so rusted a 20lb sledge couldn't move the caliper to tilt. The seal is torn. I have the same leaky strut, I replaced it :lol:, then I found the brakes. I also noticed it was terrible in the snow last season. I don't think the rear brakes were working at all, the pads have no wear. It would push the car and fight the ABS. Just going to order new pads and and calipers.
Your car probably was nor running for a long time.
@@mikes.garage According to google maps, it sat at the dealer for at least 18 months :lol:., The dealer did replace the pads though (the rotor was new, but that was two years ago). He probably ripped the seal doing the work or didn't bother greasing it. That is why I like doing stuff myself. Another car I bought the dealer replaced rear pads but greased with axle grease, the boot had all holes in it. Almost as bad as this - a 90s Tbird.
@@alb12345672 both rear calipers seized but i picked mine for 4500$ certified at a nissan dealer ship . US car but driven to canada. still kinda unsure if i am happy with it
@@dingdongditcherful Lexus is a reliable brand of car. Not perfect for that money you aren't going to do better.
My guide bolts were stuck as fuck, my bottom sliding pin wouldn’t let the caliper go so I couldn’t grease it or remove the entire caliper, so i just did everything else just not that
You need to remove caliper and grease that pin, as your rear brakes not going to work properly.
this is amazing thank you
Thank you Carlos!
6:45 ... i only have one of those brake pins on both rear brakes. I put the pin on the top slot. Am i the only one who has 1 brake pin and not 2 lol? Scary.
Probably you have one pin missing. You need to buy brake pad hardware.
Thank you!!!!❤
How do I tighten my handbrake
Turn that roller behind the spring and then try to put rotor on. If rotor is already installed, remove that rubber cover and turn that roller through the hole a little, then spin rotor make sure it's not locked and spins freely.
Nice job !!
Thanks
Someone make a comment of all the tools needed please 🙏
Why do you need a wheel adapter
Because this is not original wheels.
Спасибо !!!!
@@АнтонЛитвинов-р6ъ Спасибо за просмотр!
That brake hardware should be replaced or the pins should be cleaned up to polished finish with a wire wheel or you can get uneven pad wear and you should have a thin layer of brake lube on all the contact points. Not bad but not pro.
👍👍👍👏👏
Thanks
Thank you for watching!
always extra work dealing with lexus cars lol
Где замена тормозов???
Would’ve been better to show the compression of the brake piston! Smh
Dam I'm just gonna pay someone
This is an option too ;)
A little rusty there ahhhh!!!!!
A little more rust and need to be replace caliper :)