This is definitely not a fun job on jack stands working from your back. I was struggling getting the hubs back in and your 5 step sequence was such a help! Thanks for uploading. Just did an FRS differential swap into my 2G IS250. Thought an LSD and 4:10 gearing would liven the car up a bit.
I did this same swap too, I’m now replacing my axels cause I noticed one axel was leaking out of the rubber boot part. The brz diff woke the car up a lot though.
Great video , I have both front and rear right outer boots shoot on my daughter 2006 is250 AWD , what brand part do you recommend aftermarket? I will take the risk
I just bought a remanufactured axel and if I remember correctly the cost was pretty cheap. The joint in mine was shot so I had to replace the axel. Take a look amzn.to/4gINhgv if you want to buy the boots I would say any known brand from a chain like Napa, but dont get the boot that slides over, get the boot to REPLACE.
Amazing video! I had a very very seized wheel hub and am replacing the knuckle all in one now. Do you happen to know the torque specs of the 5 bolts ? Or a link to the image it’s tough to gauge when it scrolls. Would really appreciate it.
Thank you for the great comment, from 7:40min to 7:50min its not scrolling, just smaller. From 8:05min onward it scrolls. I can't upload an image, or reply with the image and to be honest I forgot where I got it. For my videos what I do is search for hours on the net, and I can usually get the info from a car forum where someone has posted part of a manual. If you have a computer and watch on a computer it is very easy to see, even when they are scrolling, and you can pause. I think the best best is to watch on a computer and pause. Its easy to see.
Good video. I wish you could elaborate more on removing that darn bolt stuck in the bushing at 3:10 in the video. I cannot get past that seized bolt. How did you use the air hammer to break it loose? It feels like the rubber bushing is absorbing all the vibrations coming from the hammer. The same is happening when trying the torque gun.
Ya that bolt is the worst, and I'm assuming it's common on all the Lexus vehicles. To help loosen the bolt I used A LOT of penetrating fluid. I spun the nut on enough to protect the bolt threads and heated the bolt with the torch JUST A BIT, too much and you will burn the rubber, you have to be very careful there. Then I used an air hammer and went at the centre of the bolt. I know the bushing absorbs most of the shock, but that's ok, the bolt is still getting some serious vibration. Then I would alternate to the ratchet and try to turn the bolt and it just started turning a bit. Once it turned a bit no more air hammer, just lots of spray and working back and forth. It probably too me just over an hour to remove that one bolt. Don't rush it, and don't lay on the air hammer too hard. To be honest I think it was the heat and twisting of the ratchet that probably broke it free, but I was alternating between all three. Don't twist it too hard either or the rubber will rip. It's a bear I know. There were some moments where I thought I was going to have to replace that joint, but I was able to get it free.
i just installed extended studs in the rear of my 2IS and I had a few issues. first of all i had to pull off both hubs on either side and when i put things back together the axle cups that are located right behind the knuckle didnt line up properly (im assuming) and when i test drove it i heard some really ugly grinding and knocking sounds. also, when i was tightening the axle nut it completely locked up my axle and it wasnt even torqued all the way down. i also broke the wheel speed sensor 🥲
Oh Man I'm sorry to hear that. Most likely the extended studs that caused it somehow. Maybe the rear part of the stud was thicker and extended beyond the flange too much.
There is no way to torque with the wheels on (good luck getting a tool in there so I used a jack and jacked it up a bit to simulate it on the ground. Not perfect but better than nothing and no issues.
Thank you, I did not know that as I have never had to replace the charcoal filter. I have to say that's a pretty big job just to replace the filter LOL : )
The bolt that you used the air hammer on ended up getting rounded off on the right hand side of the bolt the solution I have found that I have yet to try is to cut the cv axle in half with a cutting torch so I can fit an impact wrench on the opposite end of that arm, is there any reason not to try that first I do not want to replace the bolt so I plan to just tighten the nut on the left side and call it a day since hammering and heat failed to remove it
You are definitely thinking. If you cut the axel in 1/2 you could get it out no problem. Not sure how your idea would work, and I'm not sure if you would still have enough room? I'm thinking what if you left the bolt in (just take the nut off) I'm thinking would it be possible to flip the spindle UP without taking it off? then you could remove the old axle and put a new one in. I never thought of trying to do the job while leaving the bolt in. Maybe it could be left in? If everything else is removed it should be able to be flipped up unless I'm not thinking of something? Maybe its a bad idea? Not sure, I would have to get back under the car to reassess.
@@jacksonalt9004 Hummm, well that's not good my friend. I guess the only thing to do is fight with the bolt then. Even if you cut the axle and take it out you would have the issue of getting the new one in. I know the bolt did not take long in the video, but that's because I sure no one want to watch me fight with it for 2hrs. That bolt is the worst part of the job. Problem is you can't even heat it or you will destroy the rubber bushing. Its lots of penetrating fluid and patience.
@@Hellboy_ Ahh well that makes sense, I think you should raise the vehicle and turn each axle stub on the side of the diff. See if they are locked together. If they are you axle is still welded together and you just broke an axle. When you turn the stubs feel for "grit" when turning and if its not smooth when you turn the stubs the something is probably going on. Drifting is fun !!
Well its been 12 hours since this comment came in and I hope you don't need anger management from throwing tools around LOL. Its a bit of a tough job, and the one bolt is a !!!!! You will know which one I mean. I'm praying for you brother.
I have the same car, when I apply the brakes at low speeds I get a clunking noises. When the cars parked if I push the car back and forth I can here the same clunking sound. Would this be the rear CV Axel problem?
hi i hope everything is ok. i would like to know is it possible to change my hub bearing to put bigger ones, because i have bbs rs131 rims that i would like to put in my lexus is250 2007. the problem they are not the same size
@GarageKing the problem is that my car has the 5 studs like the BBS Rs rims but the 5 holes of the rim are more spaced than that of the rim. to be clearer, I have a 2007 Lexus 250 is250 and I would like to put 2 BBS RS131 rims on the front and 2 BBS RS018 on the rear
@@ministhree I know what you are saying. The 5 bolt patter is different. There are a few patterns and you can't change the patter as the hub is a sealed unit so the hub and bearing are considered one part. Now, the only thing that might work is if there was another lexus or toyota model that has the same dimensions for the bearing to fit into the suspension, but has a different hub attached to it. I don't know how you would find that information. If you know your tires fit on a different model of Lexus or toyota you could see if that bearing will fit. Also keep in mind where the ABS ring is placed. Some are internal and some are external. I know what you are trying to do and its easy if you can find a bearing with the right bolt pattern that fits, but finding it is the issue.
Sorry, I just work on my own vehicles. The job is probably a few hours if you took it into a shop. If I remember correctly the part didn't cost much, it was the time to do it.
Hey there and good eye, the only one that might make a difference is #4, but it would be almost impossible to get to it, if not impossible. The other parts really don't matter as they are set up like an outer tie rod, so they are able to twist with the suspension as it moves (they are ball joint design so no rubber bushing to twist)
Hi There, appreciate the comment, and if you go to the 9:40min mark of the video you will see all the tools I used. I didn't provide a list as most people don't read the video description when I put things in there. You can see this job is not for the faint of heart, and you will need a number of tools, some you might (like an air hammer) or maybe you won't depending on how seized up everything is.
Well that's the one I did in this video. Its not the easiest job. If you are not familiar with auto repairs it may be best left to a shop, but if you are willing to tackle it, then plan for a weekend. Depending where you live rust may play into it.
@@GarageKing Half a year later I thought I might have a problem with my right drive shaft because I could hear a loud knocking noise when backing up and turning.
Climate can make a difference so if its hotter you can use thicker oil, and if its cooler you can use thinner oil. I always follow the manual, I think that 75W90 is pretty close to the 75W85 the manual calls for, but you have to make sure its rated GL-5.
@@myturn3886 Hey there, Its a few hour job for sure. I would say depending on how much you are paying your guy, about 3hrs. The part didn't cost too much, I think the axel was only like 150 or so.
Nice repair, I appreciate you putting all the torque specs into the video
Thanks
Brand new axel looks nice! Great video!
Appreciate the comment, this video took a long time to film and I wish it got as many views as my Snap On flyer reviews !!!
This is definitely not a fun job on jack stands working from your back. I was struggling getting the hubs back in and your 5 step sequence was such a help! Thanks for uploading. Just did an FRS differential swap into my 2G IS250. Thought an LSD and 4:10 gearing would liven the car up a bit.
Appreciate the comment and yup, on jacks stands its not fun !! I'm glad the video helped you out and 4:10 gearing would definitely liven the car up :)
I did this same swap too, I’m now replacing my axels cause I noticed one axel was leaking out of the rubber boot part. The brz diff woke the car up a lot though.
Nice work !! Good on you for attempting, most people won't attempt this job so congrats on that !!@@lxwgoo999
4.10 gearing slows the car down…
@@LexusProonly on the top end. Also adds a limited slip differential…
Nice video
Plenty of great info
Much appreciated
Thank you for the great comment
Great video , I have both front and rear right outer boots shoot on my daughter 2006 is250 AWD , what brand part do you recommend aftermarket? I will take the risk
I just bought a remanufactured axel and if I remember correctly the cost was pretty cheap. The joint in mine was shot so I had to replace the axel. Take a look amzn.to/4gINhgv if you want to buy the boots I would say any known brand from a chain like Napa, but dont get the boot that slides over, get the boot to REPLACE.
Amazing video! I had a very very seized wheel hub and am replacing the knuckle all in one now. Do you happen to know the torque specs of the 5 bolts ? Or a link to the image it’s tough to gauge when it scrolls. Would really appreciate it.
Thank you for the great comment, from 7:40min to 7:50min its not scrolling, just smaller. From 8:05min onward it scrolls. I can't upload an image, or reply with the image and to be honest I forgot where I got it. For my videos what I do is search for hours on the net, and I can usually get the info from a car forum where someone has posted part of a manual. If you have a computer and watch on a computer it is very easy to see, even when they are scrolling, and you can pause. I think the best best is to watch on a computer and pause. Its easy to see.
Good video. I wish you could elaborate more on removing that darn bolt stuck in the bushing at 3:10 in the video. I cannot get past that seized bolt. How did you use the air hammer to break it loose? It feels like the rubber bushing is absorbing all the vibrations coming from the hammer. The same is happening when trying the torque gun.
Ya that bolt is the worst, and I'm assuming it's common on all the Lexus vehicles. To help loosen the bolt I used A LOT of penetrating fluid. I spun the nut on enough to protect the bolt threads and heated the bolt with the torch JUST A BIT, too much and you will burn the rubber, you have to be very careful there. Then I used an air hammer and went at the centre of the bolt. I know the bushing absorbs most of the shock, but that's ok, the bolt is still getting some serious vibration. Then I would alternate to the ratchet and try to turn the bolt and it just started turning a bit. Once it turned a bit no more air hammer, just lots of spray and working back and forth. It probably too me just over an hour to remove that one bolt. Don't rush it, and don't lay on the air hammer too hard. To be honest I think it was the heat and twisting of the ratchet that probably broke it free, but I was alternating between all three. Don't twist it too hard either or the rubber will rip. It's a bear I know. There were some moments where I thought I was going to have to replace that joint, but I was able to get it free.
i just installed extended studs in the rear of my 2IS and I had a few issues. first of all i had to pull off both hubs on either side and when i put things back together the axle cups that are located right behind the knuckle didnt line up properly (im assuming) and when i test drove it i heard some really ugly grinding and knocking sounds. also, when i was tightening the axle nut it completely locked up my axle and it wasnt even torqued all the way down. i also broke the wheel speed sensor 🥲
Oh Man I'm sorry to hear that. Most likely the extended studs that caused it somehow. Maybe the rear part of the stud was thicker and extended beyond the flange too much.
Hey man! Looking to do my front drivers side cv axle for my 06 is250. Do you know of any videos for that or is it same process?
Hey There, I have never done the front drivers side as this car was a rear wheel drive, sorry.
Did you torque the suspension parts loaded on the ground or on jack stands?
Thanks
There is no way to torque with the wheels on (good luck getting a tool in there so I used a jack and jacked it up a bit to simulate it on the ground. Not perfect but better than nothing and no issues.
Thanks
@@m.matias7814 Anytime
This is also what you have to do to replace your charcoal filter just remove the wheel hub and axle on the passenger side and it’ll slide out
Thank you, I did not know that as I have never had to replace the charcoal filter. I have to say that's a pretty big job just to replace the filter LOL : )
The bolt that you used the air hammer on ended up getting rounded off on the right hand side of the bolt the solution I have found that I have yet to try is to cut the cv axle in half with a cutting torch so I can fit an impact wrench on the opposite end of that arm, is there any reason not to try that first I do not want to replace the bolt so I plan to just tighten the nut on the left side and call it a day since hammering and heat failed to remove it
You are definitely thinking. If you cut the axel in 1/2 you could get it out no problem. Not sure how your idea would work, and I'm not sure if you would still have enough room? I'm thinking what if you left the bolt in (just take the nut off) I'm thinking would it be possible to flip the spindle UP without taking it off? then you could remove the old axle and put a new one in. I never thought of trying to do the job while leaving the bolt in. Maybe it could be left in? If everything else is removed it should be able to be flipped up unless I'm not thinking of something? Maybe its a bad idea? Not sure, I would have to get back under the car to reassess.
@@GarageKing I tried that too but it doesn’t allow you enough room to remove the axle from the hub side
@@jacksonalt9004 Hummm, well that's not good my friend. I guess the only thing to do is fight with the bolt then. Even if you cut the axle and take it out you would have the issue of getting the new one in. I know the bolt did not take long in the video, but that's because I sure no one want to watch me fight with it for 2hrs. That bolt is the worst part of the job. Problem is you can't even heat it or you will destroy the rubber bushing. Its lots of penetrating fluid and patience.
The other side of my axle broke off it’s jus hanging there after I got a welded diff should I jus get new one or try to put it back on
But it looks like the hub is attached to the axle so idk i might need a new diff
Oh wow, I have never seen that happen. Why did you need a welded diff. Replacing a diff on these things is pretty rare. Maybe your diff packed it in.
@@GarageKing because I be drifting
@@Hellboy_ Ahh well that makes sense, I think you should raise the vehicle and turn each axle stub on the side of the diff. See if they are locked together. If they are you axle is still welded together and you just broke an axle. When you turn the stubs feel for "grit" when turning and if its not smooth when you turn the stubs the something is probably going on. Drifting is fun !!
Lmaoo
Great video brother about to tackle this Today pray for me
Well its been 12 hours since this comment came in and I hope you don't need anger management from throwing tools around LOL. Its a bit of a tough job, and the one bolt is a !!!!! You will know which one I mean. I'm praying for you brother.
do I need to get an alignment after replacing just this rear cv axle? 2007 lexus is250 rwd owner
No, not if you do it the way I did it, as there are no adjustments on those connections.
I have the same car, when I apply the brakes at low speeds I get a clunking noises. When the cars parked if I push the car back and forth I can here the same clunking sound. Would this be the rear CV Axel problem?
It very well could be, this car when braking at low speeds had a clicking noise, do it could be the same as yours.
hi i hope everything is ok. i would like to know is it possible to change my hub bearing to put bigger ones, because i have bbs rs131 rims that i would like to put in my lexus is250 2007. the problem they are not the same size
No I don't believe you can. You can replace the studs to longer ones, but you can't change the pattern.
@GarageKing the problem is that my car has the 5 studs like the BBS Rs rims but the 5 holes of the rim are more spaced than that of the rim. to be clearer, I have a 2007 Lexus 250 is250 and I would like to put 2 BBS RS131 rims on the front and 2 BBS RS018 on the rear
@@ministhree I know what you are saying. The 5 bolt patter is different. There are a few patterns and you can't change the patter as the hub is a sealed unit so the hub and bearing are considered one part. Now, the only thing that might work is if there was another lexus or toyota model that has the same dimensions for the bearing to fit into the suspension, but has a different hub attached to it. I don't know how you would find that information. If you know your tires fit on a different model of Lexus or toyota you could see if that bearing will fit. Also keep in mind where the ABS ring is placed. Some are internal and some are external. I know what you are trying to do and its easy if you can find a bearing with the right bolt pattern that fits, but finding it is the issue.
How much do you charge for a job of that magnitude?
Sorry, I just work on my own vehicles. The job is probably a few hours if you took it into a shop. If I remember correctly the part didn't cost much, it was the time to do it.
verry good thank you teach how to work.
Thank you for the great comment !!
How much did it cost for the parts??
I think it was under 200 for everything
I did not see you preload the suspensions before you torque everything down to prevent premature failure of the rubber bushings
Hey there and good eye, the only one that might make a difference is #4, but it would be almost impossible to get to it, if not impossible. The other parts really don't matter as they are set up like an outer tie rod, so they are able to twist with the suspension as it moves (they are ball joint design so no rubber bushing to twist)
What are the front axles called I only find rear ones
the fronts could be called 1/2 shafts, but most people called them axles just like the rear.
My CV axles are very bad there is grease everywhere... And plastics are broken now it started to slip... When accelerating
You have to get this job done brother
Hi very helpful video. But if possible could you just list all the tools that you used and its dimensions
Hi There, appreciate the comment, and if you go to the 9:40min mark of the video you will see all the tools I used. I didn't provide a list as most people don't read the video description when I put things in there. You can see this job is not for the faint of heart, and you will need a number of tools, some you might (like an air hammer) or maybe you won't depending on how seized up everything is.
Thank you sir, tomorrow morning we stop the clicking!! Thank god it’s a California car
Yes for sure, if you were in Canada like me, at this time of year you would need two things, a lot of wd-40 and a warm garage LOL :)
Thanks for sharing
Thank you
I think my left rear CV axle may be faulty, I keep hearing a knocking sound.
Well that's the one I did in this video. Its not the easiest job. If you are not familiar with auto repairs it may be best left to a shop, but if you are willing to tackle it, then plan for a weekend. Depending where you live rust may play into it.
@@GarageKing Half a year later I thought I might have a problem with my right drive shaft because I could hear a loud knocking noise when backing up and turning.
@@huiren9676 Could very well be. Its good if you have a friend to put in the back seat when you are driving for them to listen.
@@GarageKing I ordered GPS Cv Axis from carid online store but they gave me wrong tracking shipping number.
@@GarageKing After replacing the new cv axle, the noise problem was not solved. I suspected it was the wheel bearing.
can 75w90 work ?
Climate can make a difference so if its hotter you can use thicker oil, and if its cooler you can use thinner oil. I always follow the manual, I think that 75W90 is pretty close to the 75W85 the manual calls for, but you have to make sure its rated GL-5.
I'm having the same issue. Where are you located Sir?
Hey There, I'm in the Greater Toronto Area
@@GarageKing Hey, so far my guy I would have had you do the job. How much do you think should cost to do this jwork.
@@myturn3886 Hey there, Its a few hour job for sure. I would say depending on how much you are paying your guy, about 3hrs. The part didn't cost too much, I think the axel was only like 150 or so.
@@GarageKing ok thank you 👍. Keep the good work.
@@myturn3886 Thank you my friend