Below are my affiliate links to the parts and tools you would use to complete this job. I may receive a small commission from the product sales. Thank you! Crankshaft pulley holder tool: amzn.to/3Y6eSBv OEM Toyota left primary timing chain tensioner: amzn.to/3W2TWJj OEM Toyota timing chain tensioner gasket: ebay.us/JmDg6S OEM Toyota water outlet gaskets x 2: ebay.us/41PqBz OEM Toyota right valve cover gasket: amzn.to/4eRbdxs OEM Toyota left valve cover gasket: amzn.to/4cRW5xW OEM Toyota front crankshaft seal: amzn.to/4czy3Il OEM Toyota timing cover coolant pipe O-rings x 2: amzn.to/4eRbnoy OEM Toyota oil pump gasket 1: amzn.to/3S37wLq OEM Toyota oil pump gasket 2: amzn.to/3S37ROc OEM Toyota valve cover bolt seals x 2: amzn.to/3XZIcJX OEM Toyota camshaft cap large O-rings x 2: amzn.to/4cNLnsu OEM Toyota camshaft cap small O-rings x 4: ebay.us/K8qVkZ OEM Toyota camshaft cap figure 8 O-rings x 4: amzn.to/4bEfnpQ OEM Toyota oil cooler O-rings x 2: amzn.to/3zEfkgg OEM Toyota intake manifold gaskets x 2: amzn.to/3LuyPKU Aisin (OEM Toyota supplier) water pump/gasket kit: amzn.to/46LXsuE OEM Toyota water pump gasket (if not replacing the pump): amzn.to/3WgavCC Gates (OEM Toyota supplier) accessory drive belt: amzn.to/41pHYM9 Genuine Toyota Full Synthetic Motor Oil 0W-20: amzn.to/3Ut33Cj Mobil 1 Extended Performance Full Synthetic Motor Oil 0W-20: amzn.to/3Y7F1xS Genuine Toyota coolant (3 gallons required): amzn.to/3Dy8UxQ Coolant bleeding funnel kit: amzn.to/3QbalKl Sturdy 4 Gallon oil/coolant drain pan: amzn.to/3Ou4iiu 5/16" drain hose: amzn.to/43E0cJa Automotive trim and clip removal kit: amzn.to/3KgKGfg Truck jack stands: amzn.to/3q6VS7t 1/2" drive cordless impact wrench kit: amzn.to/3Kcw00I 3/8" drive flex head digital torque wrench: amzn.to/3O1EOru Rechargeable LED mini work light: amzn.to/3Y74OpY Brake and parts cleaner to clean up the spilled oil mess: amzn.to/476RZQz Automotive rags to clean up the oil residue: amzn.to/3H1Pzqv
Hi Victor, I am happy that I rediscovered your channel. My 2007 5.7L had it's head gaskets replaced @ 316,000, we replaced the timing chains, tensioners, guides, etc while the engine was out of the truck.
Thanks for the video Viktor! You’re exactly correct, I had same issues with primary chain tensioner on my 2008 Sequoia 5.7 engine. Bought the car new and always did oil changes myself with Mobile 1 every 5K then this issue started at around 55K on odometer and so, finally in 2021 with 80K on odometer after research and confirming myself the same way you show true oil fill port I’ve replaced that primary chain tensioner only and that’s all. It fixed the problem . By the way the engine, when it was uncovered it looked brand new, with zero varnish and burns or wear on parts. (I was amazed by that) Thanks again.
I need this work done. Seeing how meticulous this repair is i absolutely dont trust anyone to do it correct except myself with the help of your video. Thank you for this.
Thanks Victor, this video is so good. I kept telling myself why do I have to take all these parts off? Well I found out why, and had to trust the process. Video allowed me to find all the bolts blind. Not an easy job, not too difficult either, but many many parts that can get lost along the way. I’ve just finished the teardown and ordering parts now. I have a question, when you reinstalled the hydraulic tensioner, you replaced the gasket but I didn’t see the little tin piece reinstalled, is it there?
I have a 2015 tundra 5.7 with the engine rattle. Looking on doing this job in the next upcoming days thanks to your detail video. just about to purchase parts but cant seem to figure out if my year vehicle has a gasket on the tensioner by any chance can you help me find out the part number ?
@@Cesarramirez-vj5ww hi, they all have a gasket on the tensioner. Best thing to do would be to check with your dealership parts department with your VIN to make sure you get the correct part for your vehicle.
@@footballphotos.9538 that specific rattle/knock shown in the video is caused by the tensioner, but other rattles/knocks could be caused by something else broken or damaged inside the engine. If you are unsure, you could have a professional technician diagnose it.
ive taken mine off 2 times in the past 2weeks and i didnt have to touch the intake manifold or fuel rails! unless its different with a super charger u dont have to take any that top stuff off! u will do more work then u would benefiting from its removal
@@1999tacotrd the fuel rails removal was only for the supercharger removal. The repair manual says to take the intake off to do the timing cover, but yes, you can work around, just a bit less space to get to the AIP pipes etc. Cheers!
This happened for the first time this morning to my 2010 Tundra. Approx -2c cold start. Started fine with no rattling, walked away for 2 min, came back and it sounded like marbles under my valve covers. No engine codes, rpm was stable around 1000 and good oil pressure. Rattling went away after approx 2 min as the truck got close to operating temp. Drove truck to work with no further issues. Fast forward to this evening after work. Cold start -1c, truck did not run since morning. No issues with start whatsoever. RPMs decrease with oil pressure as normal and NO RATTLING!? What gives? Truck is a 2010 tundra SR5 double cab w/175kms. I'm the second owner, purchased from a Toyota dealer in Northern AB. Carfax showed some gaps in service history, but vehicle is clean and everything seemed to be in good working order. I guess what I want to know is... A) How urgent is a repair IF this is a faulty tensioner? (Whats too much rattling ?) B) What would I be looking at $ wise for parts and labor? (Water pumps, alternators, front end work, yes... but this is past my skill level) C) Are there any other remedies you recommend trying first ? Toyota engine cleaner, sea foam, ect. Maybe I'm overreacting with this only occurring once so far, just want to be prepared. 😅
@@SaskWalleyeSlayer it will be fine to drive for a while still, the noise will start happening more often as time goes by. I can’t really give you a timeframe, but it’s not an emergency. Eventually, the timing chain guide might crack from the chain slapping around, but that’s rare. Can’t comment on pricing as that will depend on where you go for the repair, what parts you use (OEM or aftermarket) and which parts you end up replacing. The dealership labor rates are pretty high in Fort Mac area last time I checked. Changing oil often makes the noise go away for a little while, but it always comes back, the only guaranteed repair is replacing the tensioner as far as I know.
@Viktor_G_Automotive Appreciate the quick reply, Viktor ! Curious what the results are, long term with the new tensioners? I read somewhere that the new style may have larger oil ports? Curious if Toyota addressed the problem? I have not been able to recreate the problem. I'm definitely going to wait until the problem becomes more of a regular occurrence. I'm not quite Ft Mac North, closer to the Lloydminster area. The dealer here seems pretty fair with a good service department. Only dealt with them for my wife's venza and 2 Highlanders though.
Came across this video because I am suspecting I have a timing chain cover leak driver side and damn that’s a big job! not sure if to call it a leak or seepage 2016 tundra 97k miles oil change every 5k miles.
@@Viktor_G_Automotive the leak is not bad I don’t think I will go through this or I don’t even trust anyone to do it right.. I might start using higher mileage oil? Any advice? Thank you
@@InspectorCallahan.44 it’s a bit involved and time consuming, but if you do it methodically step by step, you’ll get it done eventually with great results.
Below are my affiliate links to the parts and tools you would use to complete this job. I may receive a small commission from the product sales. Thank you!
Crankshaft pulley holder tool: amzn.to/3Y6eSBv
OEM Toyota left primary timing chain tensioner: amzn.to/3W2TWJj
OEM Toyota timing chain tensioner gasket: ebay.us/JmDg6S
OEM Toyota water outlet gaskets x 2: ebay.us/41PqBz
OEM Toyota right valve cover gasket: amzn.to/4eRbdxs
OEM Toyota left valve cover gasket: amzn.to/4cRW5xW
OEM Toyota front crankshaft seal: amzn.to/4czy3Il
OEM Toyota timing cover coolant pipe O-rings x 2: amzn.to/4eRbnoy
OEM Toyota oil pump gasket 1: amzn.to/3S37wLq
OEM Toyota oil pump gasket 2: amzn.to/3S37ROc
OEM Toyota valve cover bolt seals x 2: amzn.to/3XZIcJX
OEM Toyota camshaft cap large O-rings x 2: amzn.to/4cNLnsu
OEM Toyota camshaft cap small O-rings x 4: ebay.us/K8qVkZ
OEM Toyota camshaft cap figure 8 O-rings x 4: amzn.to/4bEfnpQ
OEM Toyota oil cooler O-rings x 2: amzn.to/3zEfkgg
OEM Toyota intake manifold gaskets x 2: amzn.to/3LuyPKU
Aisin (OEM Toyota supplier) water pump/gasket kit: amzn.to/46LXsuE
OEM Toyota water pump gasket (if not replacing the pump): amzn.to/3WgavCC
Gates (OEM Toyota supplier) accessory drive belt: amzn.to/41pHYM9
Genuine Toyota Full Synthetic Motor Oil 0W-20: amzn.to/3Ut33Cj
Mobil 1 Extended Performance Full Synthetic Motor Oil 0W-20: amzn.to/3Y7F1xS
Genuine Toyota coolant (3 gallons required): amzn.to/3Dy8UxQ
Coolant bleeding funnel kit: amzn.to/3QbalKl
Sturdy 4 Gallon oil/coolant drain pan: amzn.to/3Ou4iiu
5/16" drain hose: amzn.to/43E0cJa
Automotive trim and clip removal kit: amzn.to/3KgKGfg
Truck jack stands: amzn.to/3q6VS7t
1/2" drive cordless impact wrench kit: amzn.to/3Kcw00I
3/8" drive flex head digital torque wrench: amzn.to/3O1EOru
Rechargeable LED mini work light: amzn.to/3Y74OpY
Brake and parts cleaner to clean up the spilled oil mess: amzn.to/476RZQz
Automotive rags to clean up the oil residue: amzn.to/3H1Pzqv
Hello sir
@ hello
One of the most detailed videos I’ve seen on this topic. Thank you!
@@vicroams thank you for the positive feedback!
Im very impressed. All that work with zero room in front between car and garage. This is going to save $4000.
@@boostlee5236 thanks! Happy to hear it will save you money :)
Hi Victor, I am happy that I rediscovered your channel. My 2007 5.7L had it's head gaskets replaced @ 316,000, we replaced the timing chains, tensioners, guides, etc while the engine was out of the truck.
@@kevinyoungM14EBR excellent work!
Yeah man this is a great channel. Awesome content.
@@user-sl9pt6xm8r thank you 🙏
Thanks for the video Viktor!
You’re exactly correct, I had same issues with primary chain tensioner on my 2008 Sequoia 5.7 engine. Bought the car new and always did oil changes myself with Mobile 1 every 5K then this issue started at around 55K on odometer and so, finally in 2021 with 80K on odometer after research and confirming myself the same way you show true oil fill port I’ve replaced that primary chain tensioner only and that’s all. It fixed the problem .
By the way the engine, when it was uncovered it looked brand new, with zero varnish and burns or wear on parts.
(I was amazed by that)
Thanks again.
@@lnl2000 nice work, glad to hear you fixed it!
One of the best videos on the web..full of information. Thank you for that...subscribed.
@@sbrew9033 I appreciate that 🙏
I need this work done. Seeing how meticulous this repair is i absolutely dont trust anyone to do it correct except myself with the help of your video. Thank you for this.
@@pewpface9767 you are welcome!
Subscribed....Great video
@@neekopeeko9054 thank you!
Thanks Victor, this video is so good. I kept telling myself why do I have to take all these parts off? Well I found out why, and had to trust the process. Video allowed me to find all the bolts blind. Not an easy job, not too difficult either, but many many parts that can get lost along the way. I’ve just finished the teardown and ordering parts now.
I have a question, when you reinstalled the hydraulic tensioner, you replaced the gasket but I didn’t see the little tin piece reinstalled, is it there?
Hi, the tin piece that goes behind the tensioner is the gasket. Cheers!
I have a 2015 tundra 5.7 with the engine rattle. Looking on doing this job in the next upcoming days thanks to your detail video. just about to purchase parts but cant seem to figure out if my year vehicle has a gasket on the tensioner by any chance can you help me find out the part number ?
@@Cesarramirez-vj5ww hi, they all have a gasket on the tensioner. Best thing to do would be to check with your dealership parts department with your VIN to make sure you get the correct part for your vehicle.
Wow, That's a big job. Thank you for this video. Could you also do a video on how to set the timing
@@yzfffooo will do if I get a chance to do that job in the future!
I have a question... should i just replace the pullys and the water pump and even the timing chain while im digging into this?
@@pewpface9767 you definitely can if you want the peace of mind
Is it only tensioner that causes engine rattling??
@@footballphotos.9538 that specific rattle/knock shown in the video is caused by the tensioner, but other rattles/knocks could be caused by something else broken or damaged inside the engine. If you are unsure, you could have a professional technician diagnose it.
victor i have a 2010 toyota tundra crew cab that came from canada, i have 113,881 miles on it. any suggestions
@@lisahenderson4168 sorry, I can’t quite understand what your question is. Any suggestions regarding what? 🙂
ive taken mine off 2 times in the past 2weeks and i didnt have to touch the intake manifold or fuel rails! unless its different with a super charger u dont have to take any that top stuff off! u will do more work then u would benefiting from its removal
@@1999tacotrd the fuel rails removal was only for the supercharger removal. The repair manual says to take the intake off to do the timing cover, but yes, you can work around, just a bit less space to get to the AIP pipes etc.
Cheers!
I feel that removing the fan/fan shroud and radiator first will give you more room to work
@@boostlee5236 yes, it would
This happened for the first time this morning to my 2010 Tundra. Approx -2c cold start. Started fine with no rattling, walked away for 2 min, came back and it sounded like marbles under my valve covers. No engine codes, rpm was stable around 1000 and good oil pressure. Rattling went away after approx 2 min as the truck got close to operating temp. Drove truck to work with no further issues. Fast forward to this evening after work. Cold start -1c, truck did not run since morning. No issues with start whatsoever. RPMs decrease with oil pressure as normal and NO RATTLING!? What gives?
Truck is a 2010 tundra SR5 double cab w/175kms. I'm the second owner, purchased from a Toyota dealer in Northern AB. Carfax showed some gaps in service history, but vehicle is clean and everything seemed to be in good working order. I guess what I want to know is...
A) How urgent is a repair IF this is a faulty tensioner? (Whats too much rattling ?)
B) What would I be looking at $ wise for parts and labor? (Water pumps, alternators, front end work, yes... but this is past my skill level)
C) Are there any other remedies you recommend trying first ? Toyota engine cleaner, sea foam, ect.
Maybe I'm overreacting with this only occurring once so far, just want to be prepared. 😅
@@SaskWalleyeSlayer it will be fine to drive for a while still, the noise will start happening more often as time goes by. I can’t really give you a timeframe, but it’s not an emergency. Eventually, the timing chain guide might crack from the chain slapping around, but that’s rare.
Can’t comment on pricing as that will depend on where you go for the repair, what parts you use (OEM or aftermarket) and which parts you end up replacing. The dealership labor rates are pretty high in Fort Mac area last time I checked.
Changing oil often makes the noise go away for a little while, but it always comes back, the only guaranteed repair is replacing the tensioner as far as I know.
@Viktor_G_Automotive Appreciate the quick reply, Viktor ! Curious what the results are, long term with the new tensioners? I read somewhere that the new style may have larger oil ports? Curious if Toyota addressed the problem?
I have not been able to recreate the problem. I'm definitely going to wait until the problem becomes more of a regular occurrence.
I'm not quite Ft Mac North, closer to the Lloydminster area. The dealer here seems pretty fair with a good service department. Only dealt with them for my wife's venza and 2 Highlanders though.
@ every engine that I replaced the tensioner on has been fine since.
Came across this video because I am suspecting I have a timing chain cover leak driver side and damn that’s a big job! not sure if to call it a leak or seepage 2016 tundra 97k miles oil change every 5k miles.
@@professorchaos7833 yes, it’s definitely a bit of work, at least two full days or more.
@@Viktor_G_Automotive the leak is not bad I don’t think I will go through this or I don’t even trust anyone to do it right.. I might start using higher mileage oil? Any advice? Thank you
@@professorchaos7833 if it’s just a sweat/seep, don’t worry about it. I don’t know if different oil would make any difference, but you can try.
Amazing info. Thanks a lot.
@@MrD1maS you are welcome!
Where is your shop located witch state?
@@ricardasrim1697 I’m in Canada
GOOD LORD! this is overwhelming😧
@@InspectorCallahan.44 it’s a bit involved and time consuming, but if you do it methodically step by step, you’ll get it done eventually with great results.
How much does it cost at the shop to replace chain tensioner?
Would depend on your local shop labor rate. I think it is around 14 hours of labor + parts.
@@Viktor_G_Automotive how many miles tundra needs to make before the tensioner will make noise? Does it happen to every 5.7?
@@mikeches7992 every truck is different. Some tensioners will fail, some won’t. Mileage will vary too. Could be at 60K miles, could be never.
@@Viktor_G_Automotive what part of Canada? Wa state or New York?
@@mikeches7992 just north of Montana