Great videos bro. You really explain everything thoroughly. Keep up the great work. I'll be following you since I'm about to start on my own LS swap for my 95 caprice..
Attention!! Sorry about the blurry video, I tried a different camera this time and it will definitely be the last time. If there’s anything you couldn’t see or questions you have please feel free to ask, and I’ll either answer them here in the comments or make a new video. Thanks for watching!!
@@italivyhernandez56 prices are all over the place. The easiest way would probably to just be to order a standalone wiring harness and then you can just run the wires that come labeled to your gauges and ignition
Howard, great vids brother keep them coming. What is the part number for the oil pressure sensor you used? Also will it display the correct PSI range on the dash??
I appreciate the compliment. And the oil pressure sensor that I used was just the stock 5.3 oil pressure sensor that came on the engine when I pulled it out of the 2001 Silverado although the gauge on the dash did display oil pressure, it was not 100% correct it was reading a bit low. So if it were me and I was going to do it again, I would probably see if the threads from the LT one engines oil pressure sensor were the same as the one for the swap 5.3. And then just cut the plug off of the LT one wiring harness and wire it on to the harness that I’m using for the LS swap so the dash gauge reads correctly
trent davis I used the 4L60e transmission... the 4L80e will work as well. You can use the factory crossmember and driveshaft, as long as you use the same motor mounts and oil pan and transmission mount as I did. I’ll be making another video on that soon as well
Did u make a video on swapping and u removing original motor and installing your ls step by step if u need extra hands and what u would keep and toss from original drive train amd etc
Nik Reece I did not make another video showing how to remove the original motor but I wrote a comment in another post today as well letting everyone know that I am doing another swap so I am going to post absolutely everything I do to that one to get the LS swapped into the B-body. And how to build a custom wiring harness, and everything you need to know. Keep watching for videos being uploaded every couple days. And the most important thing to keep is all of your factor wiring and factory fuse panel out of your car. And the transmission if you want to use your old one.
Hey man I got a question did all you said on the cooling senser but my cooling gauge needle when I tap in the ground wire the needle go’s all the wey to the top do you know what can it be my car it a 96 impala ls2 swap
Hey Dude, great video. easiest one so far regarding gauges and stuff. Are you from canada or does usa have napa too? thanks 2 u ive got oil and coolant temp gauges figured out but can i just take any battery feed and get alternator gauge working? Anyways, im in middle of doin an 2002 5.3 LS swap into an 84 cutlass. it came fairly complete from intake to exhaust manifolds and only one O2 sensor missing and that connector cutoff too. So i de-pinned a different harness someone else started messing with and made a mess of with regards to the shape but it had both cat cables intact so i installed it on my car. I just need a clue how to make a flat 4 pin connector connect to a square 4 pin connector. I read LT1swap pages detailing how theyre different depending on country of origin but never got a definitive answer how to connect different ones to each other? Secondly , what do i do with the wires highlighted light blue called stand alone. I think 5 of them were connected to C100 connector and i just cut them off that connector and left them sticking out of the harness for possible later use but besides oil pressure one, ive no idea what to do with rest of hightlighted blues ones so i just ignored most them except blue 42 and red 33 cuz i need to wire up electric fans i had to install cuz intake wouldnt clear mech fan. they cant be too important as the engine ran long enough w/o them to burst a stock 84 fuel return hose[2 min]
Hello! Thanks for watching!! As to your , yes we do have Napa here in the U.S. and I go there quite often. Secondly the question about the O2 sensor connectors. There’s no point in going through all that trouble. Just buy new O2 sensors that have the same connectors as the ones are you harness, and they will install in the factory O2 sensor location, that’s what I did. And lastly, all the wires highlighted blue are important! Those are the wires for all the accessories, such as fuel pump relay, transmission kick-down, feed wire for your OBD2 port so you can run diagnostics or tube, as well as pcm battery and ignition supply. You will need all these ran correctly to have the vehicle run and drive as if the motor came in the car from the factory. If not, you may be able to get it running, but it will run/shift poorly. And you will have to rig up a fuel pump relay that’s not controlled by the pcm. Just a big mess.
@@thehowardsgarage2480 DID YOU USE THE STOCK LS FUSEBLOCK? Cuz i think i just misunderstood what stand alone means in the first place. It refers to using JUST the LS pcm and harness and recreating your own fuseblock 12v power system to power up everything, correct? this would be applicable to cars/trucks that are very old and much of the stock vehicle wiring is toast anyways and NOT SO APPLICABLE in a case like mine where 99% of stock vehicle wiring and components are still fully functional, correct? im mating my LS to stock th350 tranny and if i have the stock 5.3 LS /vortec fuseblock and connect that and my car fuseblock directly to the battery via the stock LS 125 A fuse, this keeps car ignition & pcm with constant power for memory purposes via fuseblock. my key on hot from ignition powers up fuseblock via C1-A9 even while cranking and from there powers up PCM , C3-F1 can go directly to 12+ of fuel pump. SO, considering that, when i de-pin my harness according to Lt1swap info i can basically ignore most of the blue highlighted ones, except in my case if i need to run electric fans, i add in blue 42 and red 33. And yes there will be about 4 of the blue highlighted wires that goto C100 connector like OBD@ serial data, Tcc, Tach, mil and vehicle speed output that should be left intact and can be used. everything else highlighted in blue already goes to its natural place in Ls fuseblock. I guess there was about 5 other wires that may be part of the blue highlighted group, 2 were vss, not sure what other 3 were, plus theres the entire neutral park safety switch , i kept all these seperate and tucked them away in the harness if i need to pull them out. Did i miss anything or am i totally off base?
@@kravmaga7070 ok, well your just going a different route than I did, which is fine. Because the way I did it, was a lot more involved. And a bit more complicated. I did no use the Truck fuse block, I integrated the LS wiring harness in my stock harness, and used my cars factory fuse block to run everything. I made it to where it was like my LS-Swap came in my car from the factory.
@@thehowardsgarage2480 as for O2 sensors , this is like 17th problem that needs fixing and everytime you throw a $100 bucks at a problem it adds up and 96 cdn plus tax or 124 plus tax is what napa and mazon want for that O2 sensor unless u have a cheaper link?
RJNeutsie Yes you will have to wire your PCM in order to get the fans to kick on but you will have to run the wires from the PCM to your fuse box in order to get the relay to activate and send power to the fans.
I’m not sure if your subscribed to my channel or not, but I actually made a video about the fans and I show a little more detail in that video. Let me know if you check it out.
Hey quick question I’m doing a swap on a 96 impala ss and I have the gauges wired to the pcm and nothing is working. All fuses are good even shows miles and everything but no speedo/ tach etc. how did you go about tapping it into your cluster ? Thanks.
You need to go to LT1swap.com and look at your wiring diagram to see which ones are not hooked up because that’s your issue. Speed sensor runs speedometer
@@thehowardsgarage2480 thanks for the reply, I’m on lt1 swap referencing the pin outs for the 99-02 (DBC) pcm. I have pin 10 (engine speed Rpm output signal) to the wire going to the original cluster tach and have no rpm working. Then I have pin 21 (Vss signal) to the wire going to the speedo and also doesn’t do anything. I know I’m going to the right wires because I took the cluster out and looked up both connecter Pinouts for the cluster to find which wires go to tach/speedo/coolant temp etc. so I’m wondering if maybe the vss is bad or the cluster is not working. TIA
@@chrisayon2002 is the cluster not getting power? If it’s all hooked up right, but still not working, I’d imagine something is going on with the power supply.
@@thehowardsgarage2480 yeah when I turn the key to on position I can see the miles but that’s it I don’t have all the lights do the sequence it’s suppose to. I’ll check the power to the cluster right now. Thanks for the reply
I went to lt1swap.com and looked at the wiring diagram, then just wired the CEL wire from the LS-Swap PCM to the wire that went to the CEL bulb in the dash.
Great video, I’m swapping a 95 impala. is there any reason a person would need to keep the factory impala computer? I think I should be able to run everything off the LS computer
XxmeowmeowxX well the fuel pump is ran by a relay, once you turn the ignition forward the relay is activated under the hood and that’s what kicks the fuel pump on. Did you remove the factory fuse panel from under the hood?
The alternator looks as if it sits as high as the truck intake yet they say truck intake won’t fit. Can anyone verify whether the truck intake will fit or not in a B body?
I was unable to use the truck intake, it would not fit.... now there were a couple guys that did get the Trailblazer SS intake to fit, and even the regular truck intake using KDS mounts I believe.
That’s correct, but it is usable to see that you do in fact have oil pressure. You just use the plug from the LS wiring harness and wire it to your dash. And as you know the oil pressure unit isn’t a real gauge but more of a switch to let you know that you have over a certain pressure. It’s basically more of an on/off switch that a pressure gauge. But it does in fact work.
joey alfaro Yeah I do love that color, but I ended up selling the swap last week, And bought a bone stock 95 capris that I’m going to start a new LS swap with to give you guys more content and I’m going to be filming that entire swap from beginning to end
Great videos bro. You really explain everything thoroughly. Keep up the great work. I'll be following you since I'm about to start on my own LS swap for my 95 caprice..
jose pena thanks for the love bro... I appreciate it, and any questions you have feel free to ask
@@gerardolopez5875 the intake is off of a 1998 camaro LS1. The motor itself is a 5.3 out of a truck.
@@gerardolopez5875 Thanks brother, I appreciate you watching. I’m going to be starting another build soon.
@@gerardolopez5875 both actually. I enjoy my work
@@thehowardsgarage2480 (👍👍
Attention!! Sorry about the blurry video, I tried a different camera this time and it will definitely be the last time. If there’s anything you couldn’t see or questions you have please feel free to ask, and I’ll either answer them here in the comments or make a new video. Thanks for watching!!
How much does it usually cost to have somebody wire my LS three to my 92 caprice?
@@italivyhernandez56 prices are all over the place. The easiest way would probably to just be to order a standalone wiring harness and then you can just run the wires that come labeled to your gauges and ignition
Looks good Brother thanks for the help, great info.
No problem, and Thanks for watching!
Great video!
Keep up the good work bud!
Timothy Scott thank you!
Damn this is some good info bro!!! New subscriber!!!🔥🔥🔥🔥
Howard, great vids brother keep them coming. What is the part number for the oil pressure sensor you used? Also will it display the correct PSI range on the dash??
I appreciate the compliment. And the oil pressure sensor that I used was just the stock 5.3 oil pressure sensor that came on the engine when I pulled it out of the 2001 Silverado although the gauge on the dash did display oil pressure, it was not 100% correct it was reading a bit low. So if it were me and I was going to do it again, I would probably see if the threads from the LT one engines oil pressure sensor were the same as the one for the swap 5.3. And then just cut the plug off of the LT one wiring harness and wire it on to the harness that I’m using for the LS swap so the dash gauge reads correctly
Good explanation
What wire behind the gauge do you hook up the signal wire to?
Good video. So are you still using the caprice pcm with the ls pcm or just running the ls pcm?
@@aramisnorwood5710 just the LS PCM
Thanks bro for the help. What transmission u used. And I have a 4l80 and trying to use the same transmission mount and cross member.
trent davis I used the 4L60e transmission... the 4L80e will work as well. You can use the factory crossmember and driveshaft, as long as you use the same motor mounts and oil pan and transmission mount as I did. I’ll be making another video on that soon as well
@@thehowardsgarage2480 I used my oem cross member's but I had a 1 piece aluminum made to get rid of the mid-shaft bearing.
Excellent
What about for a 1978 camero? Ls3 swap to analog gauges? We are having allot of trouble looking for what we need.
Did u make a video on swapping and u removing original motor and installing your ls step by step if u need extra hands and what u would keep and toss from original drive train amd etc
Nik Reece I did not make another video showing how to remove the original motor but I wrote a comment in another post today as well letting everyone know that I am doing another swap so I am going to post absolutely everything I do to that one to get the LS swapped into the B-body. And how to build a custom wiring harness, and everything you need to know. Keep watching for videos being uploaded every couple days. And the most important thing to keep is all of your factor wiring and factory fuse panel out of your car. And the transmission if you want to use your old one.
I did a 5.3 swap. Psi harness and 140 amp alternator. I do get power to alternator but it’s not charging. Do I need resistor?
Oil change light how to work?
Hey man I got a question did all you said on the cooling senser but my cooling gauge needle when I tap in the ground wire the needle go’s all the wey to the top do you know what can it be my car it a 96 impala ls2 swap
You have wires mixed up somehow.
@@thehowardsgarage2480 thanks man found the problem they where mix
@@juanaranda7963how did you fix your coolant temperature switch to work with the dash?
@@Drw10102 the wires where mix up what are u having trouble with
What color and location is the tach and OBD wire?
Hey Dude, great video. easiest one so far regarding gauges and stuff. Are you from canada or does usa have napa too? thanks 2 u ive got oil and coolant temp gauges figured out but can i just take any battery feed and get alternator gauge working?
Anyways, im in middle of doin an 2002 5.3 LS swap into an 84 cutlass.
it came fairly complete from intake to exhaust manifolds and only one O2 sensor missing and that connector cutoff too.
So i de-pinned a different harness someone else started messing with and
made a mess of with regards to the shape but it had both cat cables
intact so i installed it on my car.
I just need a clue
how to make a flat 4 pin connector connect to a square 4 pin connector. I
read LT1swap pages detailing how theyre different depending on country of
origin but never got a definitive answer how to connect different ones
to each other?
Secondly , what do i do with
the wires highlighted light blue called stand alone. I think 5 of them
were connected to C100 connector and i just cut them off that connector
and left them sticking out of the harness for possible later use but besides oil pressure one,
ive no idea what to do with rest of hightlighted blues ones so i just
ignored most them except blue 42 and red 33 cuz i need to wire up
electric fans i had to install cuz intake wouldnt clear mech fan.
they cant be too important as the engine ran long enough w/o them to burst a stock 84 fuel return hose[2 min]
Hello! Thanks for watching!! As to your , yes we do have Napa here in the U.S. and I go there quite often. Secondly the question about the O2 sensor connectors. There’s no point in going through all that trouble. Just buy new O2 sensors that have the same connectors as the ones are you harness, and they will install in the factory O2 sensor location, that’s what I did. And lastly, all the wires highlighted blue are important! Those are the wires for all the accessories, such as fuel pump relay, transmission kick-down, feed wire for your OBD2 port so you can run diagnostics or tube, as well as pcm battery and ignition supply. You will need all these ran correctly to have the vehicle run and drive as if the motor came in the car from the factory. If not, you may be able to get it running, but it will run/shift poorly. And you will have to rig up a fuel pump relay that’s not controlled by the pcm. Just a big mess.
@@thehowardsgarage2480 DID YOU USE THE STOCK LS FUSEBLOCK? Cuz i think i just misunderstood what stand alone means in the first place. It refers to using JUST the LS pcm and harness and recreating your own fuseblock 12v power system to power up everything, correct? this would be applicable to cars/trucks that are very old and much of the stock vehicle wiring is toast anyways and NOT SO APPLICABLE in a case like mine where 99% of stock vehicle wiring and components are still fully functional, correct?
im mating my LS to stock th350 tranny and
if i have the stock 5.3 LS /vortec fuseblock and connect that and my car fuseblock directly to the battery via the stock LS 125 A fuse, this keeps car ignition & pcm with constant power for memory purposes via fuseblock.
my key on hot from ignition powers up fuseblock via C1-A9 even while cranking and from there powers up PCM , C3-F1 can go directly to 12+ of fuel pump.
SO, considering that, when i de-pin my harness according to Lt1swap info i can basically ignore most of the blue highlighted ones, except in my case if i need to run electric fans, i add in blue 42 and red 33.
And yes there will be about 4 of the blue highlighted wires that goto C100 connector like OBD@ serial data, Tcc, Tach, mil and vehicle speed output that should be left intact and can be used.
everything else highlighted in blue already goes to its natural place in Ls fuseblock. I guess there was about 5 other wires that may be part of the blue highlighted group, 2 were vss, not sure what other 3 were, plus theres the entire neutral park safety switch , i kept all these seperate and tucked them away in the harness if i need to pull them out.
Did i miss anything or am i totally off base?
@@kravmaga7070 ok, well your just going a different route than I did, which is fine. Because the way I did it, was a lot more involved. And a bit more complicated. I did no use the Truck fuse block, I integrated the LS wiring harness in my stock harness, and used my cars factory fuse block to run everything. I made it to where it was like my LS-Swap came in my car from the factory.
@@thehowardsgarage2480 as for O2 sensors , this is like 17th problem that needs fixing and everytime you throw a $100 bucks at a problem it adds up and 96 cdn plus tax or 124 plus tax is what napa and mazon want for that O2 sensor unless u have a cheaper link?
@@kravmaga7070 just order them off Amazon... they are cheap.... like $15-$20 a piece.
I have a 96 roadmaster, for the cooling fans, I would only have to wire them to my 6.0 PCM to get them to work? Or am I missing something.
RJNeutsie Yes you will have to wire your PCM in order to get the fans to kick on but you will have to run the wires from the PCM to your fuse box in order to get the relay to activate and send power to the fans.
I’m not sure if your subscribed to my channel or not, but I actually made a video about the fans and I show a little more detail in that video. Let me know if you check it out.
I forsure will today on my break at work. Thanks.
RJNeutsie no problem brother. Let me know if you need anything else
@@thehowardsgarage2480 will do! Thanks a lot.
What about automatic/Man shift for transmission like if I LS swap a V6 cts
What would you like to know exactly?
Hey quick question I’m doing a swap on a 96 impala ss and I have the gauges wired to the pcm and nothing is working. All fuses are good even shows miles and everything but no speedo/ tach etc. how did you go about tapping it into your cluster ? Thanks.
You need to go to LT1swap.com and look at your wiring diagram to see which ones are not hooked up because that’s your issue. Speed sensor runs speedometer
@@thehowardsgarage2480 thanks for the reply, I’m on lt1 swap referencing the pin outs for the 99-02 (DBC) pcm. I have pin 10 (engine speed Rpm output signal) to the wire going to the original cluster tach and have no rpm working. Then I have pin 21 (Vss signal) to the wire going to the speedo and also doesn’t do anything. I know I’m going to the right wires because I took the cluster out and looked up both connecter Pinouts for the cluster to find which wires go to tach/speedo/coolant temp etc. so I’m wondering if maybe the vss is bad or the cluster is not working. TIA
@@chrisayon2002 is the cluster not getting power? If it’s all hooked up right, but still not working, I’d imagine something is going on with the power supply.
@@thehowardsgarage2480 yeah when I turn the key to on position I can see the miles but that’s it I don’t have all the lights do the sequence it’s suppose to. I’ll check the power to the cluster right now. Thanks for the reply
@@chrisayon2002 that’s exactly where I’d check first. Let me know what you find, also grounds are just as important so keep an eye on them as well.
How did you hook up your fuel pump? Did you use truck fuse bo
Neutsie I used the stock fuse box from the caprice
Just soldered connector from lt1 PCM and ls PCM?
Neutsie No I built my own wiring harness by placing the two harnesses together and using the LS1 pcm, with the Caprice fuse panel
@@thehowardsgarage2480 perfect that's exactly what I'm doing. Thanks.
Neutsie yes sir!
How did u get your check engine light to work
I went to lt1swap.com and looked at the wiring diagram, then just wired the CEL wire from the LS-Swap PCM to the wire that went to the CEL bulb in the dash.
Ok thank you.
Great video, I’m swapping a 95 impala. is there any reason a person would need to keep the factory impala computer? I think I should be able to run everything off the LS computer
No you won’t need the Impalas PCM any longer.
@@thehowardsgarage2480 thank you, I appreciate it.
Hey i put a vortec in my 95 caprice with sniper efi how can i get my fuel pump to work
XxmeowmeowxX well the fuel pump is ran by a relay, once you turn the ignition forward the relay is activated under the hood and that’s what kicks the fuel pump on. Did you remove the factory fuse panel from under the hood?
@@thehowardsgarage2480 thanks for the reply no turns out pump went out i guess from just sitting for a year
How do make the tachometer
Kevin Humphrey I’m not sure what you mean.... what year and type of vehicle are you LS-Swapping?
@@thehowardsgarage2480 I'm swapping a 04 mustang I was wondering if you had your speedometer and tach working
Kevin Humphrey Yes I do but that mustang is 100% different than the vehicle I have
The alternator looks as if it sits as high as the truck intake yet they say truck intake won’t fit. Can anyone verify whether the truck intake will fit or not in a B body?
I was unable to use the truck intake, it would not fit.... now there were a couple guys that did get the Trailblazer SS intake to fit, and even the regular truck intake using KDS mounts I believe.
@@thehowardsgarage2480 hey
@@joshuabaldwin1742 ya
The latter sending unit has different output
That’s correct, but it is usable to see that you do in fact have oil pressure. You just use the plug from the LS wiring harness and wire it to your dash. And as you know the oil pressure unit isn’t a real gauge but more of a switch to let you know that you have over a certain pressure. It’s basically more of an on/off switch that a pressure gauge. But it does in fact work.
Paint her dark green gray metallic. Just like passenger side door.
joey alfaro Yeah I do love that color, but I ended up selling the swap last week, And bought a bone stock 95 capris that I’m going to start a new LS swap with to give you guys more content and I’m going to be filming that entire swap from beginning to end
Bro thats 90 bucks for the sensor and plug??? Holy crap
Well you know how Napa is. Their always expensive
@@thehowardsgarage2480 they break my heart bro.. 🤕🥺🥺🥺🤣😂