if you ever have trouble getting the wheel bearing out after taking the three bolts out put the tire back on put a block of wood between the rim and the frame start the truck turn the steering wheel rotate the tire a little bit turn it again it will pop the bearing right out
I just replaced mine today. Man!! Those three bolts that hold the hub assembly are a ducking pain to get out. Not only were they on tight but the space back there gives you little room with not much leverage to work with. I don’t have all the tools you do since I’m not a mechanic but somehow made it happen. Two bloody nuckles and two hrs later all done. Thanks for your video sir! Awesome job explaining.
He didn’t show you where you put the wheel hub nut back on and whack it with a hammer to pop out the drive axle spline. Then you have room to get the bolts from behind. Do that first before you start loosening the bolts
You can tell you’ve been at this awhile. When I saw you pull the mini screw driver from your pocket it was a sure sign of a seasoned vet. Well done seasoned master craftsman. We appreciate you
Great video! Few tips for novices like me: ABS and traction control lights came on and shortly after was getting a clunking noise turning at low speeds. Used a OBD2 device and indicated it was front driver ABS sensor, but with research figured it was most likely a bad bearing (due to the clunking) which made the ABS sensor go bad. Found a "fleet" grade hub at NAPA for $98 and a 36mm axle nut for $26. This video is spot on and I didn't have to undo my upper control arm, just pushed the axle back with a sledgehammer often to get at the bearing screws. My bearing screws were 18mm. I used a shorter (not deep) 18mm 1/2" drive socket with a universal joint and large torque wrench for leverage to get them loose (Wisconsin truck) and finished them off with an impact air wrench, miracle #1. Remember lefty loosey. I tried using a 3/8" drive but the universal joints broke, so you really need 1/2" drive. After getting the 3 screws out the hub (steel) was stuck to the knuckle (aluminum) which rusted/fused together. I kept turning the steering wheel to the right and left, giving the hub about 20-30 whacks from behind with a sledgehammer each time, big whacks and slowly but surely it wiggled out (200 whacks or so), miracle #2. Everything went back together pretty easily, I used anti-seize generously, looking up torque specs for all the bolts with a google search. I removed the brake caliber but didn't take the pads off, so I had to use a caliper depressing tool from a previous brake job, that tool has been a great $10 amazon investment, miracle #3. My pads are fairly new, but the caliper tool got the job done. All in all it was about a 4 hour job with about $130 in parts and tools. Local shops were quoting 2hrs labor for about $200 if I brought the hub in. If you've done brakes before, you can probably do this job. An air impact wrench, universal joints, large torque wrench and a 3 ton jack really help out. Good luck!
u can actually get a '09 hub bearing off w out removing the axle or outer tie rod end. if u crank the steering all the way left or right u can pound on a 19mm socket on the 3 hub bolts. I used a deep well 19mm pounded on to remove and a reg 19mm w one of the trick articulating u joint socket extensions to drive them back on around the axle shaft.
That old wheel bearing came out like butter compared to mine...mine is still "welded" to the nuckle after removing the 3 bolts...which were also a pain to remove.
I have a 2010 Chevy Equinox when you accelerate it like the back tire drag I have replaced the back tires because they where bad on the inside. The right tire was the worst wire sticking out of it. Do not know what's wrong. Any help thank you.
hope You can help me out, I just replaced both wheel hub on My 2010 Ram 1500 4x4. Things is now when in LOW Range, the ESP and BAS light comes on, eventhough 4wd keeps working...what could it be?...Does the computer reset itself, should I take My truck and have it scanned?
I've replaced the wheel bearing and installed a different set of tires and that hasn't fixed the issue. I still have the vibration, even with turning the wheel one inch. I often get vibration on the steering shaft that is noisy. Any tips are appreciated!
Sadly I didn't see a torque wrench. lol or anti seeze used i would hate to be the next person working on that project when it fails again lug nuts 120 ft lbs axil nut 180 ft lbs caliper bolts25 ft lbs brake shoe hanger 50 ft lbs. tie rod end75 ft lbs then you have a cotter pin in some
Excellent video. I am in the middle of trying to do this same job on a 2003 ram. The hub is very, very stuck. Any advice on how to get that thing out? I have tried pb blaster, a hammer, a pry bar and hammer at the connection between the hub and knuckle. Im not sure what else to do. That joker is showing no signs of budging any time soon.
Pound out or cut off one of the wheel bolt studs. Then get a heat tempered bolt and nut that will fit the hole. Put the nut behind the rotor and the bolt through the hole and use the steering knuckle to force off the hub assembly. You’ll have to do this in a few spots, but it works great to force off the hub, tightening the bolt you use essentially as a reverse puller. It’s called the “bolt method”. Go to about minute 5:00 in this video. Saved hours of beating and swearing. th-cam.com/video/7Yk2p5_CxqE/w-d-xo.html
I mean it’s definitely informative but maybe could use some other camera angles to see what’s going on from the back of the rotors. Also why let the caliper hang by the brake line if you’re getting the bungee to hang it so that it doesn’t hang by the brake line?
Both sides if your up for the task. I'd say 1.75hr per side at the same time change brakes and rotors. That's just me what I would do tho if brakes and rotors look fine then skip to just changing wheel bearing only
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if you ever have trouble getting the wheel bearing out after taking the three bolts out put the tire back on put a block of wood between the rim and the frame start the truck turn the steering wheel rotate the tire a little bit turn it again it will pop the bearing right out
I just replaced mine today. Man!! Those three bolts that hold the hub assembly are a ducking pain to get out. Not only were they on tight but the space back there gives you little room with not much leverage to work with. I don’t have all the tools you do since I’m not a mechanic but somehow made it happen. Two bloody nuckles and two hrs later all done. Thanks for your video sir! Awesome job explaining.
He didn’t show you where you put the wheel hub nut back on and whack it with a hammer to pop out the drive axle spline. Then you have room to get the bolts from behind. Do that first before you start loosening the bolts
You can tell you’ve been at this awhile. When I saw you pull the mini screw driver from your pocket it was a sure sign of a seasoned vet. Well done seasoned master craftsman. We appreciate you
Great video! Few tips for novices like me: ABS and traction control lights came on and shortly after was getting a clunking noise turning at low speeds. Used a OBD2 device and indicated it was front driver ABS sensor, but with research figured it was most likely a bad bearing (due to the clunking) which made the ABS sensor go bad. Found a "fleet" grade hub at NAPA for $98 and a 36mm axle nut for $26. This video is spot on and I didn't have to undo my upper control arm, just pushed the axle back with a sledgehammer often to get at the bearing screws. My bearing screws were 18mm. I used a shorter (not deep) 18mm 1/2" drive socket with a universal joint and large torque wrench for leverage to get them loose (Wisconsin truck) and finished them off with an impact air wrench, miracle #1. Remember lefty loosey. I tried using a 3/8" drive but the universal joints broke, so you really need 1/2" drive. After getting the 3 screws out the hub (steel) was stuck to the knuckle (aluminum) which rusted/fused together. I kept turning the steering wheel to the right and left, giving the hub about 20-30 whacks from behind with a sledgehammer each time, big whacks and slowly but surely it wiggled out (200 whacks or so), miracle #2. Everything went back together pretty easily, I used anti-seize generously, looking up torque specs for all the bolts with a google search. I removed the brake caliber but didn't take the pads off, so I had to use a caliper depressing tool from a previous brake job, that tool has been a great $10 amazon investment, miracle #3. My pads are fairly new, but the caliper tool got the job done. All in all it was about a 4 hour job with about $130 in parts and tools. Local shops were quoting 2hrs labor for about $200 if I brought the hub in. If you've done brakes before, you can probably do this job. An air impact wrench, universal joints, large torque wrench and a 3 ton jack really help out. Good luck!
This must be from a parallel universe lol. They NEVER EVER come off like that. 😂🤦🏻♂️
u can actually get a '09 hub bearing off w out removing the axle or outer tie rod end. if u crank the steering all the way left or right u can pound on a 19mm socket on the 3 hub bolts. I used a deep well 19mm pounded on to remove and a reg 19mm w one of the trick articulating u joint socket extensions to drive them back on around the axle shaft.
Very good video. Descriptive and to the point. Thumbs up
You make it look easy! Thank you for the video. I feel more confident about Diy'ing this now.
Should never use an impact for the Axle nut. Ever! Torque it properly they way you should.
What you call a lazy mechanic, and one that doesn't give a chit less about his customers.
This guy did the job in under 30 minutes. I bet a shop would bill 2 hours labor at least.
They charges me pretty nye 400 dollars us and took the whole front end assembly off
That hub also was pre taken out or an anomaly. They NEVER just drop out like that. NEVER
The part alone is 450$ CAD At NAPA, so I imagine dodge must charge 700$+ easy for one hub with labour, the moog is only 175$ but out of stock locally.
No your first rodeo. Good video appreciate someone who knows what there doing
That old wheel bearing came out like butter compared to mine...mine is still "welded" to the nuckle after removing the 3 bolts...which were also a pain to remove.
nice to watch a pro work...thanks for the great video.
small cold chisels worked behind the 3 bolt flanges just pound evenly on all 3
That came off easy. Must be a Southern truck.
Adding what size sockets you were using would help
That's a good idea, I have gotten so used to just knowing what size nuts and bolts are I didn't realize others might like that info.
Were you going for a record time? Wow that was fast. Thanks for the video. Helped out a lot.
Should try this job on rusted out northern Ontario truck. Better get out the torches and a bfh
I have a 2010 Chevy Equinox when you accelerate it like the back tire drag I have replaced the back tires because they where bad on the inside. The right tire was the worst wire sticking out of it. Do not know what's wrong. Any help thank you.
hope You can help me out, I just replaced both wheel hub on My 2010 Ram 1500 4x4. Things is now when in LOW Range, the ESP and BAS light comes on, eventhough 4wd keeps working...what could it be?...Does the computer reset itself, should I take My truck and have it scanned?
Great tutorial.
I've replaced the wheel bearing and installed a different set of tires and that hasn't fixed the issue. I still have the vibration, even with turning the wheel one inch. I often get vibration on the steering shaft that is noisy. Any tips are appreciated!
You mentioned putting "torque" on the bolts... How much torque was used ?
130
Sadly I didn't see a torque wrench. lol or anti seeze used i would hate to be the next person working on that project when it fails again lug nuts 120 ft lbs axil nut 180 ft lbs caliper bolts25 ft lbs brake shoe hanger 50 ft lbs. tie rod end75 ft lbs then you have a cotter pin in some
Should explain step by step for us novices maybe but good video..,
You forgot wipe your greasy fingerprints off of the roter. And are you doing both sides?
The music totally fit when the truck was going up, just saying
I went cheap on my driver side assembly, 8months later and I’m doing it again. (Thank god for lifetime warranty on those cheap parts lol)
sell your cheap new warranty replacement part on ebay and buy a good one.
Excellent video. I am in the middle of trying to do this same job on a 2003 ram. The hub is very, very stuck. Any advice on how to get that thing out? I have tried pb blaster, a hammer, a pry bar and hammer at the connection between the hub and knuckle. Im not sure what else to do. That joker is showing no signs of budging any time soon.
Hillbilly2141, I tred this yesterday and was quick and easy. Had to replace the Rotors but I happy. th-cam.com/video/ksaQlsUBqoY/w-d-xo.html
Pound out or cut off one of the wheel bolt studs. Then get a heat tempered bolt and nut that will fit the hole. Put the nut behind the rotor and the bolt through the hole and use the steering knuckle to force off the hub assembly. You’ll have to do this in a few spots, but it works great to force off the hub, tightening the bolt you use essentially as a reverse puller. It’s called the “bolt method”. Go to about minute 5:00 in this video. Saved hours of beating and swearing.
th-cam.com/video/7Yk2p5_CxqE/w-d-xo.html
great video, thanks.
Awesome
He should have torqued the axle nut and brake bolts.
Does it take a long time
How long is taking do that
Torque that tie rod with some loctite fella there's not even a cotter pin in those
What's the cost for a job like this. I'm asking because I'm about to take mine to get done and like to know.
150-250 at a decent shop
The part for mine is 164$ they told me 200$ in labor. It's why I'm here to save me 200$
Mine is growling when I accelerate and when i come to a stop. Is mine likely wheel bearings too?
Yep
@@abelscaliber7969 how do you know when cv axles are bad? do they also roar or just pope when turned sharp?
I mean it’s definitely informative but maybe could use some other camera angles to see what’s going on from the back of the rotors. Also why let the caliper hang by the brake line if you’re getting the bungee to hang it so that it doesn’t hang by the brake line?
What size is the axel nut
@Claude Bawls 1 3/4" or 35mm
Do you suggest replacing both sides at the same time?
Both sides if your up for the task. I'd say 1.75hr per side at the same time change brakes and rotors. That's just me what I would do tho if brakes and rotors look fine then skip to just changing wheel bearing only
That looks like a fairly new ram at 50grand junk..
My used one needed a wheel bearing assembly at 245,000.
@@gordonmcelvany8990 replacing my first hub assembly at 210K miles. On a 2010 dodge ram 1500
Just now replacing mine for the first time @ 268k miles. Love my 09 Ram. Best truck I've ever owned.
lol. It’s just a bearing man
@@Dennis-sq2nm that's ram for you. Just a bearing and the rear end. Lol .