Also the first thing I would loosen is the axel nut while the tire is still on and the wheel is on the ground , just pop out the center cap in the rim to get access. Especially if your like me with limited impact wrench use, a good old breaker bar, and 35mm deep socket did the trick for me. And the splines will stick a bit and need some coaxing to let the bearing go.. leave the nut on to protect the threads when you tap the axel.
Done several of these on Rams, never had to disassemble the ball joints. Of course I've never had to install the new knuckle either. If your replacing the entire assembly why deal with removing the old bearing from the old knuckle? Just saying!!😮
Talk about bait and switch why the change in knuckle you just turned a 200 dollar parts list into 1000 not to mention the magic new upper control arm and ball joint
First off, it's an 18mm bolt head that holds the wheel bearing to the knuckle. Secondly you can loosen the bolts from the backside by turning the knuckle full left and full right to get at the bolts, its tight, and you have to use a thin wall socket, not an impact. But the whole wheel bearing R an R job can be accomplished Without all the labor intensive work of dropping the entire knuckle. Unless you just want to add lots if extra work. I used a set of thin wedges driven in between the knuckle and wheel bearing flange to pull the bearing once the bolts were loose. There is just enough room to do the job if you use the right tools, and you can save at least 2 hours of unnecessary labor dropping the knuckle. Again a thin wall hand driven socket and full left and right turn is key to get access to the bolts, and they are 18mm NOT 19mm. I used a craftsman 3/8 drive socket with a 1/2 to 3/8 adapter and breaker bar, tapping the socket on tight with a hammer each time. At least that's for me and my 2011 ram 1500
Great video, but your torque specs on the ball joint studs are off! For both ball joints, Dodge specifies 40 ft-lb for the upper and 38 ft-lb for the lower PLUS an additional 90 degrees turn for both nuts. Your ball joints would be way undertorqued.
Why was the knuckle replaced? 🤨 also you just undo the cv axle nut and you can reach the hub bolts from the back and zip em out. Not doing all this, just wasting time
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He did it correctly, those of you saying he did too much, are doing it incorrectly. You’d be fired from my place.
Probably the best and most comprehensive repair video I have ever seen on TH-cam.
Take the engine out while you’re at it!! You created much more work than needed
Do not need to disconnect as much as you did , you added unnecessary steps
I will be doing this Labor Day weekend.
Looks easy.
Also the first thing I would loosen is the axel nut while the tire is still on and the wheel is on the ground , just pop out the center cap in the rim to get access. Especially if your like me with limited impact wrench use, a good old breaker bar, and 35mm deep socket did the trick for me. And the splines will stick a bit and need some coaxing to let the bearing go.. leave the nut on to protect the threads when you tap the axel.
Just followed this step by step and was spot on. Thanks for the help!
Done several of these on Rams, never had to disassemble the ball joints. Of course I've never had to install the new knuckle either. If your replacing the entire assembly why deal with removing the old bearing from the old knuckle? Just saying!!😮
Thanks for posting such informative, helpful videos
Talk about bait and switch why the change in knuckle you just turned a 200 dollar parts list into 1000 not to mention the magic new upper control arm and ball joint
It's 36 mm for the axel nut not 35! Just cost me an hour cuz I bought a 35 and had to drive another 20 miles to town to get the right size.
Oh no 😱
God bless you for the great knowledge as always
First off, it's an 18mm bolt head that holds the wheel bearing to the knuckle. Secondly you can loosen the bolts from the backside by turning the knuckle full left and full right to get at the bolts, its tight, and you have to use a thin wall socket, not an impact. But the whole wheel bearing R an R job can be accomplished Without all the labor intensive work of dropping the entire knuckle. Unless you just want to add lots if extra work. I used a set of thin wedges driven in between the knuckle and wheel bearing flange to pull the bearing once the bolts were loose. There is just enough room to do the job if you use the right tools, and you can save at least 2 hours of unnecessary labor dropping the knuckle. Again a thin wall hand driven socket and full left and right turn is key to get access to the bolts, and they are 18mm NOT 19mm. I used a craftsman 3/8 drive socket with a 1/2 to 3/8 adapter and breaker bar, tapping the socket on tight with a hammer each time. At least that's for me and my 2011 ram 1500
2011-2018
I imagine this is why socket sizes vary.
They probably did multiple videos for mystery new parts.
What size/ weight hammer were you using?
Would you need to realign the truck after
This is not the same for a Non- 4 wheel drive front end.
Great video, but your torque specs on the ball joint studs are off! For both ball joints, Dodge specifies 40 ft-lb for the upper and 38 ft-lb for the lower PLUS an additional 90 degrees turn for both nuts. Your ball joints would be way undertorqued.
Won’t banging the bolts with a sledge damage the threads?
Can I ask a do a 2 wheel drive Ram 1500 front wheel brearing hub have a nut on the axle
Also 2011-2018 is 4 gen not 3rd gen
Thank you so helpful
why was it necessary to replace that hub assembly?
Why was the knuckle replaced? 🤨 also you just undo the cv axle nut and you can reach the hub bolts from the back and zip em out. Not doing all this, just wasting time
This guys definitely not flat rate!!! He took apart way too much!!!😂😂😂
He took off 2 extra bolts so the knuckle would come off. Calm down master youtube mechanics. Jeez lol
Thanks, less made in China parts!
230 foot pounds for wheel lug nuts? Are you sure? Same goes for all torque values in this video.