Thanks man I was a little nervous about this job you made it look easy my local garage wanted 500 bucks but I have my own left I will be doing this on my own
Well done, there's only a couple things I've done differently in the past. -remove the tie rod so you can pull the gear set straight out -on pulling the gear set, you can use a rag to force the gears apart and the gear set will walk right out into your hand -I bought the Mopar seal installer for cheaper through an online vendor and WOW does it make a world of difference -I went cheap the first time with Synergy seals that looked identical to factory seals (also a 2010)- it's worth going to the new Mopar style seal despite the synergy being $6/ each -Jeep uses a special orange RTV on the outside of those seals when installing them -a little grease on the splines doesn't hurt when resembling -LubeLockers.....but that's a personal choice. I've not had to monkey around with RTV on covers in 8 years now.
kswyg thanks for the tips. I could have removed the tie rod but it’s just one more bolt to worry about and it fits right up and around ok. Just a little wiggling and the carrier came right out but the rag tip would come in handy. We did put some grease on the splines when we put it back together just didn’t film that part. The axle seals I got from autozone and they have never failed me yet. If we had both ends of the installer it would have worked better pushing both sides in at once. And I never thought about RTV on the seal itself because I’ve never had issues. I do want to save to get a lubelocker gasket way better but I don’t mind the RTV. Thanks for watching I really appreciate all the feedback too.
In the U.K. jeep main dealer wanted £912 in labour plus parts. The gearbox’s shops wanted £500 plus. Thanks to you I’ve done it for £12 and a bottle of oil. Thank you so much!
A great tip I got from another video: Don't remove the center hub bolt, just remove the 3 hub to knuckle bolts and pry the hub out with a flat head punch and a sledge hammer by hammering around it till it separates from the knuckle. Then pull out both the hub and axle shaft together.
Thanks for watching. Yeah I would normally do that but I was replacing the hub for another video too and I didn’t think to mention that you can leave the hub nut
Piece of advice: place your shims in the freezer for about 15-30 minutes before it is time for you to reinstall the differential. This should help you slip the differential into place more easily (if you are having difficulty). Great video, by the way!
very true and that is a really good tip. I am pretty lucky and mine goes in pretty easily with only a little moving around. thanks for watching the video
You beat me to it!! LOL .. I was going to suggest the same trick. For those who dont have a welder simply sandwich the washer between 2 nuts on a long length of all thread. Ive done it several times. Good video man!
Great video some info for people live up north: on stock Jeep to get better access to the diff, unbolt the tie rod on driver side, and lift the tie rod with bungee cord if you live in rusty area, do not hammer on the 12 point bolts directly, they will get damaged, and each bolt is $20 (Canadian) from Fiat/Chrysler. to remove the hubs, use a 7 ton puller, I broke a smaller 3 claw puller trying to remove the axle hubs. Use brake cleaner to remove dirt and rust, use penetrating oil before removing any bolt. Before putting everything back, put anti-seize on all contact surfaces. My front differential gear carrier didn't come off easily, I had to stuff a rag in ring gear and turn the drive shaft to force the gear out. a case spreader would be nice. doesn't seem very hard to make if you have welding machine.
David 326 thanks for all the great tips. You can pound on the hub bolts without damage if you put a socket over them pound on the socket and not on the bolt itself. And yeah some gears come out harder than others. Case spreader would make easy work if it but most of the time you can gently pry and get it out. Thank you for watching I really appreciate it
@@TheBeardedJeeper thanks for the correction, another trick to remove the hub is to loosely bolt the rotor backward onto the hub, and use the rotor as a slide hammer.
@@zxborg9681 Ha, I'm from Toronto too. glad this helped. my bolts' thread were gummed up with rust and mud, the impact gun with universal joint couldn't even turn the bolts, I was worried the bolts will snap under impact, so I turn all the bolts by hand with 1/2'' breaker bar, I share your pain. feels like most of the time we are battling with rust. little tappy tap tap doesn't work up here. I used the 7 ton puller borrowed from part source (or can tire) to pull the hub and axle off. even with the puller, I had to use a long breaker bar with extension tube to pull the hub off.
Kenn Heinrich rust does suck. People from down south think I don’t take care of my jeep. But it is a daily driver in the winter they put a lot of salt on the roads and it makes a job 10x harder if it is all rusty
My 2013 Jeep Wrangler sport is leaking all seals. Inner & outer looks like. The video helps. I just need to find time and help to do this. Thank you for your videos.
DrHellno008 thank you I really appreciate the feedback. Let me know if you have any issues. Just make sure to take your time and do it right so you don’t have to do it again
Edwin Chacon awesome I’m glad it helped you guys out! Thank you for watching and thank you for the support. If I can do anything else for you let me know.
Great video. I just noticed oil coming out of my Dana 44 axle shaft so I’m guessing it’s the seals. I will give this a shot myself now that I’ve seen your video. Thanks
Great vid. Just redid the front end in my 08, and did the pinion seal. Should have just did the inner seals at the same time, hopefully I didn't leak too much of the new RP out before noticing lol
Great video! Just a couple suggestions. First, if you are going this far, check your ball joints and u joints and do them too. Also, make sure you have an axel guide. Not sure about the driver side but the passenger side axel is longer and you need it for sure.
I agree good tips. You can do without an axle guide and just put something under it as you slide it in so it doesn’t destroy your new seal. I made a video the same time about replacing a wheel hub. I also had to replace a u joint
SWBCrawler no problem man. If you have any questions let me know. Biggest thing is to make sure the bearing caps go on the same way they came off same side and top and bottom the same. They should have marks on the axle housing
you are awesome thank you for explaining. ive been topping off the pumpkin for about a year now cause I was too scared to do it myself and couldn't shell out 700 to have it done. I didn't want to mess with the r+p. going to grab that tool and attempt this myself.
Nice video! Professional tip here - never ever install a seal and axle dry. You should always lubricate the entire ring of the seal and the sealing surface of the axle. I know there is diff fluid up against the inside of the seal but in the case of a double-lip seal, you will smoke that seal in just a couple miles of driving it..
PRO TIP: always remove the fill plug first on anything you do... that way you don't drain fluid you cant replace. ;) of course there are ways to fix a broken fill plug, but you may need to drive somewhere to do that.
Great video Thanks a lot I will give er a go Does it matter if it's a rubicon with the diff locker Same job sir???? Ohhh and I have a beared also friend
Hey man thanks I appreciate that. Only difference with the rubicon is you will have the electrical connection for the locker you just have to unplug it
You're lucky the bearing came off that easy. I work at a jeep/dodge/ram dealership and let me tell you , most of the time, the bearing don't come out this easy. Using the original bolts risk the chance to damage to threads. Best to find a matching bolt and hit it hard from behind. You won't get these bearing off with light taping and wd40 lol Most people don't touch them bearing for 100k+, unless you live somewhere that has no winter or rust. I live in Canada, New-Brunswick, winter are harsh around here. I use a matching bolt and hit it with a big air hammer with a special attachment that fits like a socket. It's a gamble to take on this task with simple hands tool and no air compressor. It's not a hard job but some people will get deceive on how easy this one was on video and be stuck at the bearing part or even before that. Good job tho!
I agree it isn’t always easy but sometimes you luck out. I live in New Hampshire so rust is my enemy too. Thanks for watching and any tips you have let me know
How much fluid does the diff hold? I have a leak on the passenger front seal. So Im about to tackle this job, replacing both seals along with ball joint replacement. I just want to get all the necessary supplies. Lol
Depends if you have the Dana 30 or Dana 44 front axle you can find it easily with a quick google search. Let me know if I can help at all with anything else
Mr. User mine is a 2010. And not much more complicated. Just have to disconnect the electric line or air line. Or if it’s an auto locker you don’t need to worry about anything. If you have any questions just let me know
great video i have leak in one front passenger side so time to change but im going to do BOTH side just in case front and back axels thanks for the video now question what axel did you have
Nelson en ACCION 4x4 thank you! This was on a JK Dana 30 but same process on the 44 if you have the factory e locker you just have to unplug the locket wire
@@TheBeardedJeeper Thank you so much I took my car for oil change today it was cheep but good shop They told me I need New radiator it’s leaking Axle seal Front brakes All shocks $2600 I got all parts for $400 and will perform this weekend 🤣👍🏻
I have a 2018 Jeep Wrangler JK Unlimited Sahara edition I am looking for the rear inner differential seals any ideas on where to get these? I'm struggling to find the correct parts. I believe its a Dana 44. there is oil on the rotor shield on the rear right axel area.
you should be able to find them at any auto parts store the rear is a lot different and you will need a press. You have to cut the old bearings off and press on new ones with the seal
yes you can do it without the tool but the tool just makes it easier. The only difference with the rubicon is that you have to disconnect the wire for the locker
Great video guys! I have a Rubicon with the factory locker. I heard you need a special tool to remove the electrical locker connectors. Do you know if that's true and if so what tool?
I have a 2016 wrangler, I went off roading about a year ago. Got stuck n put a lot of pressure on one of the front wheels winching it out. Notice a little oil like fluid had leak from one of the front wheels on the inside near the axle I guess. Now my abs n traction control lite comes on only in the summer when temps are warm, but never in the winter when temps are cold. Anything like that ever happened to you or have you heard anything like that.
I pulled the old seal, on my 13 and i was looking for a replacement and seems like mine is two parts seals, is any difference? and also once i pull the axle shaft out, there is some seals that came out with it , thank you on advance
Two part seals? Are you sure it’s not just broken into two pieces? Also the seals that came out with it are they around the axle shaft? Some pics would help. Feel free to email me. Thebeardedjeeper@gmail.com
Thanks for the video. Could not have done the job without it. After putting it all back together I tested it out and could hear a tearable gear sound when I put it into 4wd. It sounds fine in 2wd. What is the mostly mistake I made?
@@MrShaddy580 it could be it’s hard not knowing exactly what the sound is. I wouldn’t drive it anymore and I would open it up to see if anything is loose or broken
@@TheBeardedJeeper I’m pretty sure it’s the cv joint. (Probably broke a while ago and I never noticed) is it safe to drive as long as it’s in 2wd? Thanks
I'm part way through and is going exactly like the video except I can't get the gears to budge. I broke down and ordered a differential case spreader (Amazon for a little over a hundred.) It should arrive on Monday and I should be on my way again.
You shouldn’t need a case spreader. It will make it easier but some are just tighter in there. There is a trick where you put a rag in under the gears and spin the pinion and the rag pushes them out
WBOS72 nope I did not. From what I’ve seen some will be tighter than others but I haven’t seen anyone need a case spreader on a JK. Usually you can gently pry behind it and get it to come out.
I need to replace my Rear Axle Seal '11Jeep Wrangler. The outer ones near the tire. TO do this do you just buy a new rear axle shaft? And if its leaking on the outer axle does that mean its time to replace the inner axle seals? My guess is yes but I am a rookie. What do you think, please?
The rear axles are more difficult and will require a press. There is a seal a bearing and a race that you have to remove and then press new ones on. You can bring it to a shop to have them press on the new parts if you remove the old ones cheap or if you have a press do it yourself
David Mullen I used an inch and a half but whatever size will fit on the edge and push it out. And yes the seals should be the same for both the 30 and the 44
Just found out the differences between the mopar and nationals, there’s a sleeve that fits in the mopar that slides into the seal and the nationals is just a rubber fitting and no steel sleeve hopefully this works
I know this is over a year old , but on the rubi with factory lockers , before you put the carrier back in, pull out the plunger, it looks like a mushroom ? Best description I could come up with, put a toothpick, match stick or golf tee to keep plunger out and tie a piece of fishing line to whatever piece you use, install carrier, then pull the line out with the wedge.
Why do you remove the 36mm axle nut and then the hub from the axle? You can just remove the hub and axle together unless you need to swap the axle or hub. It is less stress on the unit bearing if you do not remove the hub from the axle. Great video.
Got a quick question, is there an O-ring inboard of the inner axle seal between the race bearings and the carrier. I removed mine on both sides of the diff pumpkin. I can't find a part listing for an O-ring but I noticed that in every picture or video it looks like sealant squeeze-out or an O-ring. Don't wanna do rework at this point!
@@TheBeardedJeeper sweet. I do not have the seal installer so I am using a 1.5" socket and light taps.. any tips on knowing how far in it needs to be so it is fully seated? visually I am unable to tell if it's far enough/all the way in.
Mark Spinner thank you. It only took a couple hours but that’s with filming. As long as all your stuff comes out ok you could probably do it in an hour. Any questions feel free to ask
Is the spec for the torque of the side caps 45 ft/lbs- 60 ft/lbs? Currently have my jk dana 30 apart. That was the torque spec I was told by a friend. Currently torqued at 52 ft-lbs.
Michael James stripped? How did they strip? Do you mean the bolt head? Map gas will help if they are rusted in there. Just make sure brake lines and abs lines are not in the way
@@TheBeardedJeeper I had to grind the 3 hub bolts a lot of rust the bolts stripped and even a smaller socket hammered didn't work made it worse. I ve had to do the axle u joints ball joint and hub. Think I might as well do the seals it's an 08 Rubicon.
after watching your great video, I feel that I can tackle this task. Do the gears always come out that easy like in your vid or will I have to pry it out of the differential? I watched another jeep video, that I would have to get some kind of spreader tool for the differential housing to get the gears out, is this true? thanks
Intense Rider thank you 🙏 the gears don’t always come out that easy but you should be able to get them out without a case spreader. If they are tighter just gently pry with a pry bar and you should be able to work them out. I would put a rag around the tip of your pry bar so you don’t scratch up anything and just pry gently and you can wiggle it out. Hope this helps.
@@davidfrangos3702 I’ve never needed them but I change my diff fluid a lot. If you go through a lot of mud it might not be a bad thing. Rear is completely different you need a press
When the gears and carrier come out. It doesn’t matter which way the carries goes? As to when you flipped it out and over the tie rod. You definitely turned it. As long as you keep everything on the same side you should be good? As in like, say you pull the gear out at 12 o clock. You could throw it in at say 6 o clock as long as it’s on the appropriate side? With sims bolts etc. That paints an easier picture? Lol
Shims have to stay on the same side they came out. The gears and carrier will only go in one way the diff cover sticks out more on one side to clear the ring gear. Hope that makes sense. If you have any more questions let me know.
I was thinking of replacing the axle shafts that come with the seals already on them. Will that work also? What throws me off is that the seals you replaced seem to be inside. Installing new axle rods, the seals are definitely going to be outside.
@@Fabs0324 so the axles that come with them on are the rear axles. The rear axles have seals and bearings pressed on. The front has these inner seals. I wouldn’t replace them unless you notice them leaking
Successfully completed based on your video...thanks. However, now I hear what seems like a slip in the gears upon initial acceleration, this happens only once until the vehicle is off, sits, then goes again at each start up, it does not happen when driving after that. Also, now have speed sensor error C1014 I can’t keep clear. Wheels were disassembled again and both sensors cleaned, error remains. Any thoughts on either of those issues? Thanks
Curt W the gears shouldn’t be slipping. Did you put back all the shims and evening on the correct side? Also did you torque everything to spec? As far as the sensors, they could have been dirty and caused the error it takes a bit for the error to clear. You could disconnect your battery for like 10 seconds and it will wipe them out. If they come back they probably are damaged. Luckily they are really cheap to replace
The Bearded Jeeper well I decided to take everything apart again and switch the shims around....that appeared to do the trick as far and the “slipping”. I can’t believe such a small difference has that effect, but then again I never performed this much and this involved maintenance on vehicles till I bought this money hungry JEEP. I also resolved the ABS/Traction control issue by replacing that sensor...easy fix, hard to get to connection but got it. Thanks for the initial video on the seals, easy to follow and was balls on as to steps to take for a novice like myself. Will look for yours when the next issue pops up. 🤪
Curt W awesome man glad to hear it helped you out. Sometimes the littlest things can make a big difference. Let me know if I can help you out anymore and thank you for all the support
4 years later this video is still helpin us broke jeepers out. Thanks man.
Does a goatee count?
Glad it helped out! Yep counts in my book! Thanks for watching I really appreciate it
Thanks man I was a little nervous about this job you made it look easy my local garage wanted 500 bucks but I have my own left I will be doing this on my own
Hey Tim that’s awesome glad it could help you out. If you run into any snags hit me up
Well done, there's only a couple things I've done differently in the past.
-remove the tie rod so you can pull the gear set straight out
-on pulling the gear set, you can use a rag to force the gears apart and the gear set will walk right out into your hand
-I bought the Mopar seal installer for cheaper through an online vendor and WOW does it make a world of difference
-I went cheap the first time with Synergy seals that looked identical to factory seals (also a 2010)- it's worth going to the new Mopar style seal despite the synergy being $6/ each
-Jeep uses a special orange RTV on the outside of those seals when installing them
-a little grease on the splines doesn't hurt when resembling
-LubeLockers.....but that's a personal choice. I've not had to monkey around with RTV on covers in 8 years now.
kswyg thanks for the tips. I could have removed the tie rod but it’s just one more bolt to worry about and it fits right up and around ok. Just a little wiggling and the carrier came right out but the rag tip would come in handy. We did put some grease on the splines when we put it back together just didn’t film that part. The axle seals I got from autozone and they have never failed me yet.
If we had both ends of the installer it would have worked better pushing both sides in at once. And I never thought about RTV on the seal itself because I’ve never had issues.
I do want to save to get a lubelocker gasket way better but I don’t mind the RTV.
Thanks for watching I really appreciate all the feedback too.
Awesome video, definitely feeling confident enough to finally take care of my axle leak. 👍🏻
Willson Ayotte awesome just take it slow and put the parts back the way you found them and you will be fine. If you have any questions let me know.
In the U.K. jeep main dealer wanted £912 in labour plus parts. The gearbox’s shops wanted £500 plus. Thanks to you I’ve done it for £12 and a bottle of oil. Thank you so much!
awesome man glad it helped you and you saved some money as well. Make sure you share this video so it can help others as well
Fantastic video...short, sweet and to the point!
Thanks for watching hope it helped
A great tip I got from another video: Don't remove the center hub bolt, just remove the 3 hub to knuckle bolts and pry the hub out with a flat head punch and a sledge hammer by hammering around it till it separates from the knuckle. Then pull out both the hub and axle shaft together.
Thanks for watching. Yeah I would normally do that but I was replacing the hub for another video too and I didn’t think to mention that you can leave the hub nut
I was coming down to say the same thing. Everyone removes that center hub bolt and there is no reason too.
Piece of advice: place your shims in the freezer for about 15-30 minutes before it is time for you to reinstall the differential. This should help you slip the differential into place more easily (if you are having difficulty). Great video, by the way!
very true and that is a really good tip. I am pretty lucky and mine goes in pretty easily with only a little moving around. thanks for watching the video
Definitely the best how to video I've seen. Thank you so much, saved me 500 for the stealership to do it.
Awesome glad it could help you out
Thank you, young man, you were very helpful. And I will stay bearded and keep Jeepin.
Glad the video was helpful for you! Thanks for watching
Great video, I wish I had this to reference the first time I replaced axle seals
@@vladbpootin3122 thank you I appreciate it. Hopefully it will help others with their first time
Nice one buddy! I have a large washer welded to a piece of rebar i use for scraping the axle tubes. National makes good seals
D&E In The Garage yeah national is the only ones I’ve ever gotten they work well. I need to come up with a better axle tube scraper
You beat me to it!! LOL .. I was going to suggest the same trick. For those who dont have a welder simply sandwich the washer between 2 nuts on a long length of all thread. Ive done it several times. Good video man!
Power Addicts - FixJeeps.com - Jeep, car and motorcycle tips thank you I really appreciate the feedback
Great video
some info for people live up north:
on stock Jeep to get better access to the diff, unbolt the tie rod on driver side, and lift the tie rod with bungee cord
if you live in rusty area, do not hammer on the 12 point bolts directly, they will get damaged, and each bolt is $20 (Canadian) from Fiat/Chrysler.
to remove the hubs, use a 7 ton puller, I broke a smaller 3 claw puller trying to remove the axle hubs.
Use brake cleaner to remove dirt and rust, use penetrating oil before removing any bolt.
Before putting everything back, put anti-seize on all contact surfaces.
My front differential gear carrier didn't come off easily, I had to stuff a rag in ring gear and turn the drive shaft to force the gear out. a case spreader would be nice. doesn't seem very hard to make if you have welding machine.
David 326 thanks for all the great tips. You can pound on the hub bolts without damage if you put a socket over them pound on the socket and not on the bolt itself. And yeah some gears come out harder than others. Case spreader would make easy work if it but most of the time you can gently pry and get it out. Thank you for watching I really appreciate it
@@TheBeardedJeeper thanks for the correction, another trick to remove the hub is to loosely bolt the rotor backward onto the hub, and use the rotor as a slide hammer.
David 326 I had to use that trick with my rear axle it was stuck in there really good. That trick works surprisingly well.
@@zxborg9681 Ha, I'm from Toronto too. glad this helped. my bolts' thread were gummed up with rust and mud, the impact gun with universal joint couldn't even turn the bolts, I was worried the bolts will snap under impact, so I turn all the bolts by hand with 1/2'' breaker bar, I share your pain. feels like most of the time we are battling with rust. little tappy tap tap doesn't work up here. I used the 7 ton puller borrowed from part source (or can tire) to pull the hub and axle off. even with the puller, I had to use a long breaker bar with extension tube to pull the hub off.
Kenn Heinrich rust does suck. People from down south think I don’t take care of my jeep. But it is a daily driver in the winter they put a lot of salt on the roads and it makes a job 10x harder if it is all rusty
Big help for packing for overland trip. Thanks
You bet! Glad I could help
My 2013 Jeep Wrangler sport is leaking all seals. Inner & outer looks like. The video helps. I just need to find time and help to do this. Thank you for your videos.
Rich Haseltine hope it helps you out. If you have any questions feel free to hit me up
u did a great job thanks . im a fixer our selves person .great video
I have absolute confidence in doing this after watching your video. Plus I'll save 1300...lol your my new go to guy.
DrHellno008 thank you I really appreciate the feedback. Let me know if you have any issues. Just make sure to take your time and do it right so you don’t have to do it again
For removing the old seals, a 1-1/2” dia sched 40 PVC pipe works great.
Awesome thanks for the tip!
great video buddy, it helped me and my kid to get the job done - cheers from Costa Rica !
Edwin Chacon awesome I’m glad it helped you guys out! Thank you for watching and thank you for the support. If I can do anything else for you let me know.
Just did mine today! Thanks for the video, it was super helpful.
Shawn Lambert you bet! Glad it could help you out. Thanks for watching and thanks for the feedback
JK rear axle seal busted today... wheel and fender flare covered with oil 🙄🤦♂️☠ This video will save me quite a bit of money !!
Rear axle seal is completely different than the front they are pressed on to the shaft
Oh man I missed one of your videos. Luckily recommended saved the day!
Reaper XJ thanks for watching man I appreciate it
I have remove that hub farrrr too many times. Good video bro.
Yeah it gets easier and easier each time you remove the hub. Thanks for watching!
Great video. I just noticed oil coming out of my Dana 44 axle shaft so I’m guessing it’s the seals. I will give this a shot myself now that I’ve seen your video. Thanks
JeepGuy yep sounds like a leaky seal. If you have any questions hit me up. It’s not too hard just a little intimidating at first
Great video 👍 this will help me out a lot I have to do mine soon! Thankfully I have a friend with a shop and I found your video to help us! 😎
That Dude In A Jeep awesome glad I could help. If you have any questions let me know.
@@TheBeardedJeeper Thanks I appreciate it!
Such a helpful video thank you so much I have to replace mine in the apocalypse
Slow and Curious offroad Adventures glad this helps. If you have any issues or questions feel free to reach out. Thanks for watching
Great vid. Just redid the front end in my 08, and did the pinion seal. Should have just did the inner seals at the same time, hopefully I didn't leak too much of the new RP out before noticing lol
Thank you!!
Great video! Just a couple suggestions. First, if you are going this far, check your ball joints and u joints and do them too. Also, make sure you have an axel guide. Not sure about the driver side but the passenger side axel is longer and you need it for sure.
I agree good tips. You can do without an axle guide and just put something under it as you slide it in so it doesn’t destroy your new seal. I made a video the same time about replacing a wheel hub. I also had to replace a u joint
Thanks! We’ll be doing this on a friends jk soon! Great timing!
SWBCrawler no problem man. If you have any questions let me know. Biggest thing is to make sure the bearing caps go on the same way they came off same side and top and bottom the same. They should have marks on the axle housing
@@TheBeardedJeeper Yea, ive been in a diff before, but its been forever. No case spreader needed i see. thats nice.
SWBCrawler nope easy enough to pull right out
Great Vid man! Your hubs came off so easy! 🤣
thank you! yeah the hubs tend to come off really easy when you take them off a bunch and replace them
you are awesome thank you for explaining. ive been topping off the pumpkin for about a year now cause I was too scared to do it myself and couldn't shell out 700 to have it done. I didn't want to mess with the r+p. going to grab that tool and attempt this myself.
Fatima Mohammed glad it can help. If you have any questions feel free to let me know.
Nice video! Professional tip here - never ever install a seal and axle dry. You should always lubricate the entire ring of the seal and the sealing surface of the axle. I know there is diff fluid up against the inside of the seal but in the case of a double-lip seal, you will smoke that seal in just a couple miles of driving it..
Thanks for the tip I appreciate it. Always learning and that seems to make sense. Thanks for watching
Great video 😎👍 straight forward info" get to point do it yourself process.
Thank you I appreciate the feedback
PRO TIP: always remove the fill plug first on anything you do... that way you don't drain fluid you cant replace. ;) of course there are ways to fix a broken fill plug, but you may need to drive somewhere to do that.
Good point I should have added that in my video. Thanks for watching
Congrats on your TH-cam channel Success Kyle. Great informative Channel.
Dustin B - Newport
GagePlayz Games thank you I really appreciate that. One day at a time.
Great Video, very good presentation!
Thank you I really appreciate the feedback
Great vid . Great job at explaining!
john kenny thank you I really appreciate it
Awesome video mate, I probably should do the ones in my tj soon
Cheap Jeeper thank you! Yeah it’s really not that hard it’s just time consuming because you have to take everything apart
The Bearded Jeeper yeah definitely, I should of done it when I swapped my axle over
Cheap Jeeper haha yeah for sure.
Nice video, very well done
Brian Farnden thank you
Great video
Thanks a lot
I will give er a go
Does it matter if it's a rubicon with the diff locker
Same job sir????
Ohhh and I have a beared also friend
Hey man thanks I appreciate that. Only difference with the rubicon is you will have the electrical connection for the locker you just have to unplug it
Great video! My 1999 XJ did not have any shims is that normal?
Thank you! That’s strange no shims at all but if it’s working then send it
You're lucky the bearing came off that easy. I work at a jeep/dodge/ram dealership and let me tell you , most of the time, the bearing don't come out this easy. Using the original bolts risk the chance to damage to threads. Best to find a matching bolt and hit it hard from behind. You won't get these bearing off with light taping and wd40 lol Most people don't touch them bearing for 100k+, unless you live somewhere that has no winter or rust. I live in Canada, New-Brunswick, winter are harsh around here. I use a matching bolt and hit it with a big air hammer with a special attachment that fits like a socket. It's a gamble to take on this task with simple hands tool and no air compressor. It's not a hard job but some people will get deceive on how easy this one was on video and be stuck at the bearing part or even before that. Good job tho!
I agree it isn’t always easy but sometimes you luck out. I live in New Hampshire so rust is my enemy too. Thanks for watching and any tips you have let me know
Thanks for the video.
You bet glad it helped
Hi. Very useful video. What brand seal do you recommend for my jk. Thanks.
Honestly whatever you can find at the part store should work I got the national oil seal. Thanks for watching
Enjoyed your video. Can you tell me where you purchased the inner seal press tool?
Thank you 🙏 I have a link to it and the axle seals in the description of the video. Thanks for watching!
Great info brother
JL LIFE OFFROAD thank you 🙏
How much fluid does the diff hold? I have a leak on the passenger front seal. So Im about to tackle this job, replacing both seals along with ball joint replacement. I just want to get all the necessary supplies. Lol
Depends if you have the Dana 30 or Dana 44 front axle you can find it easily with a quick google search. Let me know if I can help at all with anything else
lmao i was thinking guten-tite and then you said it! LOL
Haha great minds think alike
What a great video, two questions; 1) what year is your jeep? 2) how much more complicated is it if there is a locker? Thank you in advance.
Mr. User mine is a 2010. And not much more complicated. Just have to disconnect the electric line or air line. Or if it’s an auto locker you don’t need to worry about anything. If you have any questions just let me know
And great video Kyle
Devin Does Everything 02 thank you
I had to wait till my beard grew before I attempted this job!
I heard it makes you more successful
Good video helped me a lot thanks
Josh Gray awesome glad it helped
great video i have leak in one front passenger side so time to change but im going to do BOTH side just in case front and back axels thanks for the video now question what axel did you have
Nelson en ACCION 4x4 thank you! This was on a JK Dana 30 but same process on the 44 if you have the factory e locker you just have to unplug the locket wire
Great video
I have 2014 Jeep unlimited Sahara how do I know what axle I have Dana 30 or 44? Thanks
You have the Dana 30. The rubicon is the only one that came with the 44. Yours would be the same as mine
@@TheBeardedJeeper
Thank you so much
I took my car for oil change today it was cheep but good shop
They told me I need
New radiator it’s leaking
Axle seal
Front brakes
All shocks
$2600
I got all parts for $400 and will perform this weekend 🤣👍🏻
@@mikimiki195 that’s awesome! Glad it helped you out. Let me know if you run into any snags
Gonna try this weekend and do the rear axle seals. Should be the same thing, right?
Nope rear axle seals are completely different. Everything is pressed on the rear axle shaft you need a shop press to replace.
This video was much helpful,just finishing up with my axle seals repair,how long do the seals usually last?
As long as you installed them correctly and you don't have anything hitting them they will last a long time
I have a 2018 Jeep Wrangler JK Unlimited Sahara edition I am looking for the rear inner differential seals any ideas on where to get these? I'm struggling to find the correct parts. I believe its a Dana 44. there is oil on the rotor shield on the rear right axel area.
you should be able to find them at any auto parts store the rear is a lot different and you will need a press. You have to cut the old bearings off and press on new ones with the seal
Thanks again, 2 questions though, can you fit the seal without that tool? And how much different is it to do a Rubicon diff?
yes you can do it without the tool but the tool just makes it easier. The only difference with the rubicon is that you have to disconnect the wire for the locker
Great video guys! I have a Rubicon with the factory locker. I heard you need a special tool to remove the electrical locker connectors. Do you know if that's true and if so what tool?
Troy Johnsen thanks man. As far as I know you should just be able to unplug it without any special tools
I have a 2016 wrangler, I went off roading about a year ago. Got stuck n put a lot of pressure on one of the front wheels winching it out. Notice a little oil like fluid had leak from one of the front wheels on the inside near the axle I guess. Now my abs n traction control lite comes on only in the summer when temps are warm, but never in the winter when temps are cold. Anything like that ever happened to you or have you heard anything like that.
Charlie St. Cloud never happened to me. I’m wondering if oil is flowing more in warmer weather and getting on your abs sensor
I pulled the old seal, on my 13 and i was looking for a replacement and seems like mine is two parts seals, is any difference? and also once i pull the axle shaft out, there is some seals that came out with it , thank you on advance
Two part seals? Are you sure it’s not just broken into two pieces? Also the seals that came out with it are they around the axle shaft? Some pics would help. Feel free to email me. Thebeardedjeeper@gmail.com
Thanks man
You bet hopefully it helps
Thanks for the video. Could not have done the job without it. After putting it all back together I tested it out and could hear a tearable gear sound when I put it into 4wd. It sounds fine in 2wd. What is the mostly mistake I made?
That doesn’t sound good. Did you tighten all your bolts to spec? Put the bearing caps in the correct way? Put all your shims and everything back in?
@@TheBeardedJeeper would it be caused by over tightening?
@@MrShaddy580 it could be it’s hard not knowing exactly what the sound is. I wouldn’t drive it anymore and I would open it up to see if anything is loose or broken
@@TheBeardedJeeper I’m pretty sure it’s the cv joint. (Probably broke a while ago and I never noticed) is it safe to drive as long as it’s in 2wd? Thanks
@@MrShaddy580 on the driveshaft?
So the carrier doesn’t need to come out if only doing u joints ?
Nope you just pull the axle you don’t even have to remove the diff cover since this isn’t a c clip axle
great video!
Raimondi Inc. Thank you 🙏
I'm part way through and is going exactly like the video except I can't get the gears to budge. I broke down and ordered a differential case spreader (Amazon for a little over a hundred.) It should arrive on Monday and I should be on my way again.
You shouldn’t need a case spreader. It will make it easier but some are just tighter in there. There is a trick where you put a rag in under the gears and spin the pinion and the rag pushes them out
Thanks for the video, very helpful.
Do you have a link to the seal installer tool that you used, the 2-sided one?
Finally found one amzn.to/2L5Etat
Thanks for doing this vid. I have a 16 jku with open dana 30, i see you did not need a case spreader?
WBOS72 nope I did not. From what I’ve seen some will be tighter than others but I haven’t seen anyone need a case spreader on a JK. Usually you can gently pry behind it and get it to come out.
Excelente explicación y detalles
Thank you 🙏 I appreciate it!
Thanks
Great content. I’m not going to do it cause I don’t have all the tools. Fml
thank you I really appreciate it. You really don't need many tools to get the job done. Thank you for watching I really appreciate it!
Great vid
Sam Clough thank you I really appreciate it
I need to replace my Rear Axle Seal '11Jeep Wrangler. The outer ones near the tire. TO do this do you just buy a new rear axle shaft? And if its leaking on the outer axle does that mean its time to replace the inner axle seals? My guess is yes but I am a rookie. What do you think, please?
The rear axles are more difficult and will require a press. There is a seal a bearing and a race that you have to remove and then press new ones on. You can bring it to a shop to have them press on the new parts if you remove the old ones cheap or if you have a press do it yourself
@@TheBeardedJeeper Thank you. I appreciate your reply.
I took off the driver side axle.
I can't get the gears out.
Do I have to remove the passenger also?
Yes you have to remove both sides since your axle shafts go into the carrier
1) what size socket did you use to knock the old seals out?
2) will those seals work on a D44?
David Mullen I used an inch and a half but whatever size will fit on the edge and push it out. And yes the seals should be the same for both the 30 and the 44
Are both sides the same part number or different for drivers side and passenger?
I believe they are the same part number same seal just put on one side or the other
Just found out the differences between the mopar and nationals, there’s a sleeve that fits in the mopar that slides into the seal and the nationals is just a rubber fitting and no steel sleeve hopefully this works
@@SkateForPoverty I’ve installed the national ones with good luck 👍🏻
Is the dana 30 like a chrysler 8 1/4 ?
The 8.25 is a rear axle so the seals would be on the axle shafts pressed on.
What if you have a Rubicon front dana 44, what do you do with the carrier/locker when there’s wires attached to it?
Big Nort same process you just have to disconnect the wire before you pull the carrier out
I know this is over a year old , but on the rubi with factory lockers , before you put the carrier back in, pull out the plunger, it looks like a mushroom ? Best description I could come up with, put a toothpick, match stick or golf tee to keep plunger out and tie a piece of fishing line to whatever piece you use, install carrier, then pull the line out with the wedge.
Why do you remove the 36mm axle nut and then the hub from the axle? You can just remove the hub and axle together unless you need to swap the axle or hub. It is less stress on the unit bearing if you do not remove the hub from the axle. Great video.
I had to remove the hub as well I made a separate video on that.
thanks for watching!
Got a quick question, is there an O-ring inboard of the inner axle seal between the race bearings and the carrier. I removed mine on both sides of the diff pumpkin. I can't find a part listing for an O-ring but I noticed that in every picture or video it looks like sealant squeeze-out or an O-ring. Don't wanna do rework at this point!
Not that I have ever replaced it is just the seal itself. Maybe if you have a rubicon with a locker
@@TheBeardedJeeper Nope its an 1996 XJ
@@eastcoastteddy58 hmm not sure I don’t think there should be one
Can you use break cleaner for the differential housing/parts?
Mike James yes you can it works really well to clean things out
@@TheBeardedJeeper sweet. I do not have the seal installer so I am using a 1.5" socket and light taps.. any tips on knowing how far in it needs to be so it is fully seated? visually I am unable to tell if it's far enough/all the way in.
Mike James you should kinda feel it bottom out when it is fully seated. I never used to have the tool but it makes it so much easier
Man ur the best
Ze ZO thank you! Hope it helped you
Need the link to that seal press 😎👍
Link is in the description
Please type of oil do have to put another slippery oil or just Axle oil
80W-90 but I would double check in your owners manual it will tell you the type they recommend and the amount.
@@TheBeardedJeeper problems is lost the car manual I have seen people add oil witj slippery is the right or oil can be enghou
Great video. Made it look easy. My dealer wants just over 400 bucks in labor. How long did it take you just on the ground with Jack stands?
Mark Spinner thank you. It only took a couple hours but that’s with filming. As long as all your stuff comes out ok you could probably do it in an hour. Any questions feel free to ask
I hope you took that deal, my Jeep shop wants $800
@@JimboSliceXX 😆 I did!
Is the spec for the torque of the side caps 45 ft/lbs- 60 ft/lbs? Currently have my jk dana 30 apart. That was the torque spec I was told by a friend. Currently torqued at 52 ft-lbs.
will ram yes that is correct
Hey Whats up Eric
Reaper XJ I’ll tell him you said hey
I was able to remove one of the three 12-point bolts, the other two are stripped. Any issues with using MAP gas to heat them up?
Michael James stripped? How did they strip? Do you mean the bolt head? Map gas will help if they are rusted in there. Just make sure brake lines and abs lines are not in the way
@@TheBeardedJeeper the heads of the 12 points are stripped not the threads lol
Mike James ahh you might be able to pound a smaller socket on them to get them off
@@TheBeardedJeeper I had to grind the 3 hub bolts a lot of rust the bolts stripped and even a smaller socket hammered didn't work made it worse. I ve had to do the axle u joints ball joint and hub. Think I might as well do the seals it's an 08 Rubicon.
@@carlosllauro4532 wow I’ve never seen them rusted that bad usually some heat and they will come right out
after watching your great video, I feel that I can tackle this task. Do the gears always come out that easy like in your vid or will I have to pry it out of the differential? I watched another jeep video, that I would have to get some kind of spreader tool for the differential housing to get the gears out, is this true? thanks
Intense Rider thank you 🙏 the gears don’t always come out that easy but you should be able to get them out without a case spreader. If they are tighter just gently pry with a pry bar and you should be able to work them out. I would put a rag around the tip of your pry bar so you don’t scratch up anything and just pry gently and you can wiggle it out. Hope this helps.
@@TheBeardedJeeper that's good to know, hopefully mine comes out easy. thank you very much for your prompt reply!
Intense Rider no problem if you have any issues let me know and I can try to help
I think swamp donkey should start a TH-cam channel
Devin Does Everything 02 I don’t think he has time he is always helping everyone
This might be a stupid question but is there an 'outer' axle seal as well? Thanks for the helpful video!
No outer seal unless you buy aftermarket ones. Stock it doesn’t come with any. Thanks for watching
@@TheBeardedJeeper Thanks for the info! would you recommend installing an outer? Also, I'm assuming the rear axle seals are a similar process?
@@davidfrangos3702 I’ve never needed them but I change my diff fluid a lot. If you go through a lot of mud it might not be a bad thing. Rear is completely different you need a press
Cool. Thank you!
you bet hope it helps
Is the tool and the installation the same for a 2016 Jeep JK Dana 30? Thanks.
Yep this is on a 2010 JK Dana 30. Same exact
When the gears and carrier come out. It doesn’t matter which way the carries goes? As to when you flipped it out and over the tie rod. You definitely turned it. As long as you keep everything on the same side you should be good? As in like, say you pull the gear out at 12 o clock. You could throw it in at say 6 o clock as long as it’s on the appropriate side? With sims bolts etc. That paints an easier picture? Lol
Shims have to stay on the same side they came out. The gears and carrier will only go in one way the diff cover sticks out more on one side to clear the ring gear. Hope that makes sense. If you have any more questions let me know.
I was thinking of replacing the axle shafts that come with the seals already on them. Will that work also? What throws me off is that the seals you replaced seem to be inside. Installing new axle rods, the seals are definitely going to be outside.
Will that work or will I have to replace the ones inside to stop the leak?
@@Fabs0324 so the axles that come with them on are the rear axles. The rear axles have seals and bearings pressed on. The front has these inner seals. I wouldn’t replace them unless you notice them leaking
Pulling my front axle was a battle. Was that normal?
Like pulling it out of the housing? Should just pull right out
What's the torque specs on the inside for the bearings?
Bearing caps 45 ft lbs
@@TheBeardedJeeper 👍🏼
is the rear axle similar?
No the rear is completely different everything is pressed on the axle shaft
And you can buy the axle shaft with all the parts pressed on from extreme terrain.
@@justinmorbeck3604 you can but if your rear shaft is still good why replace it?
What’s the tool you used to install the new seals?
I have a link to one in the description
Successfully completed based on your video...thanks. However, now I hear what seems like a slip in the gears upon initial acceleration, this happens only once until the vehicle is off, sits, then goes again at each start up, it does not happen when driving after that.
Also, now have speed sensor error C1014 I can’t keep clear. Wheels were disassembled again and both sensors cleaned, error remains.
Any thoughts on either of those issues?
Thanks
Curt W the gears shouldn’t be slipping. Did you put back all the shims and evening on the correct side? Also did you torque everything to spec? As far as the sensors, they could have been dirty and caused the error it takes a bit for the error to clear. You could disconnect your battery for like 10 seconds and it will wipe them out. If they come back they probably are damaged. Luckily they are really cheap to replace
The Bearded Jeeper well I decided to take everything apart again and switch the shims around....that appeared to do the trick as far and the “slipping”. I can’t believe such a small difference has that effect, but then again I never performed this much and this involved maintenance on vehicles till I bought this money hungry JEEP.
I also resolved the ABS/Traction control issue by replacing that sensor...easy fix, hard to get to connection but got it.
Thanks for the initial video on the seals, easy to follow and was balls on as to steps to take for a novice like myself. Will look for yours when the next issue pops up. 🤪
Curt W awesome man glad to hear it helped you out. Sometimes the littlest things can make a big difference. Let me know if I can help you out anymore and thank you for all the support