the important thing to remember with rated bow shackles is only ever put the pin back into the shackle it came out of as 2 different ones may look the same but then the pin fit can be different (can be best to engrave or stamp the shank and head of the pin with a number to match) i was a chain and rigging certifier for 9 1/2 years and seen many fail because of people using the wrong pins. i had a mobile van with testbed system like what was in vid that did up to a 30tn pull so could test anywhere in the country. another very important thing is NEVER believe any rigger that tells you the old method of doing them up then backing off a 1/4 turn. this can leave the pin loose and in fact you can rock the pin in the thread when this is done (they would do it so they could undo it easier) it is dangerous and can spit the pin out and also you will find every time the pin has still gotten tighter as it has stretched the shackle slightly each time until it is to stretched to use. rule is if the pin when screwed in doesn't meet the outside of the shackle (at least flush with the side) discard it as its stretched. the reason they have a hole in the pin is to assist with undoing them as riggers would carry a marlin spike they could put in and twist them off the other reason is if you affix one permanently you can since wire through the hole and around the shank.
orange soft shackle against an abrupt 90 degree edge started to shear right there and that was the most interesting thing about your tests......sure would have been nice to have actual numbers when each one broke....especially the soft shackle.
The total material in the support rings of that yellow shackle is actually the amount of material I need in muscle-frame connections in an exosuit. Seems high carbon forged steel is more worthwhile than I thought. I'm glad I clicked this video.
Advertising mate.. If they had gotten a hardware store shackle of the same size as the rated one, they would have had similar results.. And that would mean they can't advertise the TJM product as a better product
There is more to a rated shackle than just the diameter of the material, the type of material and how they are made are also factors that determine their rating, an unrated shackle you have no idea what it is and it could be no more than a bent bit of mild steel round bar with a bolt poked through it... Nothing to do with damn brand since you can get unbranded and rated shackles. Use and unrated shackle and you are an idiot.
The test is just to show what to buy and what not. I can guarantee you that a professional brand shackle is much stronger. Those brands get all the material properties exactly right, as the cheap stuff just makes “something”. This is well known in the hoisting & lifting industry.
If you are using a recovery strap with a sewn loop or a traditional nylon sling with sewn loops...a shackle with the proper width and pin size is mandatory. If not you could cut the strap rating by half or more.
The rated things like shackles, rigging straps or similar things used with cranes or heavy equipment are the way to go. They are rated at 1/4-1/5 their breaking point
As a crane operator(IUOE Local 12) we use good quality steel shackles made in USA only. Mainly because Chinese steel dose not have the same grain structure and usually fails without deforming. USA or German steel will deform considerably before failing. FYI space x uses the shit out of rope slings. They make them on site and they are stronger then steel for the size. Take care.
Nice story that explains how fucking cheap you are, if you buy only cheap stuff and then generalise the whole country from it. Sorry, but rated stuff is what it says on the label, has certs and costs the same more or less, no matter where it is made.
Hey cool I’m iuoe 115 , I work with rigging on a daily basis . We us quality Crosby or CM branded shackles . They don’t snap like that one did . I don’t care where they are manufactured they are both a quality branded , and trusted piece of rigging used in most North American industry . But let’s agree on something here, this video was pointless . MORAL OF THE STORY , use correct rigging and practice safest and smartest rigging practices . If your breaking a 3/4” or 7/8” shackle , YOUR DOING IT WRONG !
If you arrange the soft shackle so the knot is @ 90 degree angle to the pull, it might fail @ even higher load. It would be interesting to see this tested.
BTW, Anything "Rated" for lifting / winching in an industrial setting "sure as heck" better survive at least 4x the "rated" Safe working load when new. But that doesn't mean we can use a 5Tonne shackle for lifting 20Tonne, fatigue is a thing. That soft shackle should only be rated at 2.0-2.5Tonne MAX. At 8Tonne (8000kgf) there is no safety margin. Anytime any "rope" ( steel or fibre) goes over a sharp edge ( or a tight bend) it really needs protection (ie. a thimble of some type, not a soft sleeve.)
Bob Pfaff wow your a dick lol. It’s not like there saying use it for lifting lol. If your stuck and that’s what you have bet your ass you’ll use it again. A a crane operator we use good quality steel shackles made in USA only. Mainly because Chinese steel dose not have the same grain structure and usually fails without deforming. USA or German steel will deform considerably before failing. FYI space x uses the shit out of rope slings. They make them on site and they are stronger then steel for the size. Take care.
I think he means as an emergency backup or to possibly double up them. If the knot was retied it would probably take near the same force to break it again so unless you're pulling out someone who is extremely stuck then it would be pretty fine to use
Crosby, Campbell, new holland are the only 3 I trust. I've personally seen all 3 overload numerous times. In the crane and roughing world synthetic slings are quite amazing but they are no where near as strong as steel. That said steel doesnt like to grab round pipe and synthetic is just about the only thing that actually will
To all the people saying they should have used the same diameter shackles, you are missing the point, the good quality shackle had a safety factor of over seven, while the cheap one regardless of diameter barely made would have had a factor of 1.5.
Working load limit ratings are for overhead lifting. Breaking strength ratings are for horizontal pulling. Soft shackles have breaking strength ratings, completely different than the WLL the steel shackle rating. But I’m sure all you crane operators and riggers knew that?
The metal shackles were not rigged properly. The shackle bolt needs to go through a bored square bar or a heavy wall square tube at a minimum. You put the heavy testing shackle loop against the test shackle bolt which created a single point of load bearing.
If you are buying proper shack;es like a crosby. The standard is design factor, aka safety factor is as follows. Carbon Shackle - 6/1 Alloy Shackle - 5/1 I enjoyed the video, and was fun to see the results of the soft shackle. I knew right away it would fail on the sharp edges, but they held up pretty good!
I'm actually surprised that shitty little shackle took so much. One of similar size would probably actually be quite strong and not be good for their advertising agenda.
No you don't. The test was whether each shackle could take their load limit, and if so how far past the limit it can go. Doesn't matter if the sizes are different, the breaking mark is still the same regardless.
@@DeadpoolWadeW . An issue here is they are calling the "maximum survivable load" the "rating" for a soft shackle. In the real world for a "rated" piece of lifting gear, rated load is typically
You will not find an unrated shackle that is the same size as the rated one. If you do then it is probably Chinese junk because it would be a waste of steel and time to make an unrated 3/4" shackle that no one will use
I suspect the soft shackles have too many realistic drawbacks. If they're aged in the sun, they probably seriously deteriorate. They abrade easily. How do they perform when wet with water or gasoline or oil? The metal shackle is the one to rely on.
My soft shackles are all UV proof. They don't abrade if you take care not to use them on sharp edges, or get grit in the weave. They perform 100% with water, and float. I don't use them for lifting, just pulling, where I prefer them to steel. Horses for courses.
FYI, 22mm or 24mm Amsteel blue will have a minimum break strength higher(37,000kg and 44,000kg respectively) than your 19mm "rated"(really should be called under rated) shackle.
not a good idea. I reckon that the results would be similar enough for the more tight fisted/dim witted to figure that there is no point in spending extra $ on a rated shackle. Not worth the risk of litigation when someone does get killed by an unrated shackle that fails at far less than their test showed. "But Unsealed 4x4 said they break at such and such..." No thanks.
That seems like a dangerously simplistic assessment outcome. The rated bow shackles are best if you're conducting a static recovery with known good anchors, such as a single line pull from one vehicle to another, or if you're doing a double line through a snatch block to a large tree etc. If you're doing a dynamic recovery, though, using a bow shackle as a link to tie two lines risks turning the system into a weapon system aimed at one of the vehicles, depending on which line breaks. Similarly, linking lines is better to do with a soft shackle, because line failure will result in the stored energy in the other line firing the shackle at the unfailed end. Soft shackles are better for linking lines, and bow shackles are better for attaching hardware to lines.
@@imchris5000 I think your view on this matter may be somewhat simplistic as well. In static recoveries equipment failures occur due to contract with rocks, vehicle structure or wear all the time, if you've used a steel shackle it will not be the point of failure in any of those examples. In those examples it will be one of the things attached to shackles instead, potentially turning them into weapons. All of that completely ignores dynamic recovery, in which you may be able to calculate forces for a given recovery with a team of engineers and a week, but in the real world nobody knows.
@@drew79s you over think it. its actually pretty simple its just multiply mass and velocity. the real simple part is just like the manufacture of said shackles have a 5 to 1 or greater safety factor. inspect what you are attaching to dont use broken equipment. almost all breakage accidents come down to one of those three factors. its the little things like putting tape or tie wire on hooks so you dont end up wearing a chain to the back of the head when the hook unseats from bouncing your truck on it that will keep you alive
@@imchris5000 uh huh... Dynamic recovery loads are dependent on the release load of the recovered vehicle and the total energy input. It will also depend on tm the characteristics of the strap, which will change over time. If you attach a snatch strap to something else with a hard shackle there's always the potential for you to fire the shackle at someone. Similarly having a line move and rub on a rock m result in the loss of a brand new extension in a static recovery. Hard shackles have a place, so do soft shackles.
Really, you needed to prove this. Any farmer could have told you this without testing. AGAIN common sense is all that is needed. Some things do not need testing.
Excellent video, I've always been leery of soft shackles and have always used rated D shackles. After watching this I will keep using D shackles, but I might add a soft shackle to the gear as well since it can really help when a D shackle is not ideal.
I prefer the D shackles but would use a soft shackle in conjunction if it were an application where Id actually WANT it to fail before attachment point.
Loved the video and would like to see more soft shackles tested but can we get the outcome in LBS(pounds) as well as kilograms? Some of us backward folks here in the US haven't any reference with kilograms.
Hi, @@consaka1. An even closer conversion is 5 Kg + 11 pounds. One Australian Tonne - 1,000 Kg = 2,200 pounds. Just my 0.02. You have a wonderful day. Best wishes. Deas Plant.
After having 7 out of 8 tjm shocks fail and leak off-road, they are no different to any cheaper brands. Just a premium price to make you think it's quality.
the vehicle may not weigh that much but pulling forces can be very high if it is stuck. i have helped on investigations where people have died because they didnt use the correct shackle
Looks like either the shackle pocket is too wide for the upper shackle, or the bolt is not the right diameter. Try adding washers to the outside of the upper shackle so it fits up in there snug. Where did you get the shackle mounts?
I was shocked at how well the hardware store shackle held up considering its basically junk... I do have some Stainless ones on the rear of my daily driver car...But they ONLY for recovering the 2200lb (1000KG) car out of the ditch in winter time...they have a breaking limit of 8400lb (3800KG)...and safety factor of 2 (WLL 1900KG), and I use BOTH at same time...
there's videos like this on people on the interwebz still out there claiming the soft shacking is stronger than metal ones. they don't pay attention to words like WLL vs breaking strength, and lord knows they would never think about safety factors.
in all fairness the rated shackle held until the pin broke so can't see how you can compare that with a much smaller shackle of different metal, an hardware broke ( unrated ) shackles are rated just not to be used for anything other that use on trailer hitch chains ... not unlike the rated shackle which would be used on machinery etc ....
effectively you could as safety factor for pulling is 2 to 1 not the 4 to 1 for lifting but WLL means work load limit regardless of how you are using it
@@MikeBaxterABC as in "welded to the bumper before you use them". You hook stuff to them, like chains and straps and winch cables. However, while typing, i assume you mean for connecting cables or straps mid-span. At which point, the clevis pin style from tractor supply/ insdustrial stores are a bit stronger/cheaper, if a not bit ugly. At that much, I just have a couple feet of chain at the end of my winch cable, so I can wrap it around things without adding a strap to the equation. It's an old army method -or maybe I'm just cheap and old fashioned...
I always try not to be negative on comments, but this video is misleading and dangerous for the average joe. This is not a proper test and don't tell me it is just because it was at a NATA lab, they just test each item and would never agree to this comparison. The so called soft shackle are nothing more than a single sided monkey (ball) sling (really just a strop) should not even be considered as a shackle its nylon sling and these often snap without any indication of yeald once the limit of stretch is reached. any way who in their right mind would trust the friction on the ball to stop it slipping. The quality shackle is not surprising to have failed at seven times its rating but now where usable. When I use to test shackles we had to test at 2 times the rating (safe working limit) without any deformation and fully functional for repeat tests etc, and for very special jobs we tested to 3 times with out any deformation. Testing it to destruction is very miss leading some people will think they can easily exceed the limit. YOU SHOULD NOT DISCUSS ANY THING YOU KNOW LITTLE ABOUT and in fact a couple of minutes research on google would have told you how bad this review is and why you should not have done it.
I don't know if your eyeballs came straight from an ebay fire sale, but they had 3 tests with the soft shackle and 3 times it showed very clear failure indication before letting go. Meanwhile the metal shackles had almost none.
@@MsSomeonenew i respectfull want to let you know in my personal opinion you are not only wrong but should not open your trap unless you realy do know what you are talking about. 1/ Steel always shows deformation before failure and if you had even the slighest knowledge of working with steel you would know that. 2/ notice i said the nylon strop/sling would fail without notice at the end of its elasticity or stretch and unless you can calculate all the variables for each and ever manufactured sling or you have some mystical insight that no one else in the world has as to when the point of stretch finishes and the falure occures for each and every sling, your assumption is totally rubbish. (A couple of strands breaking early isnot pre notice its already failed) Sorry but i have worked with both these materials for over 40 years and have the suitable qualification so please feel free to demonstrate where I'm wrong using real science and facts. Good luck. Sorry to be a bit rough on you but i suppect you may have a reason to defend the unsafe sling that would not be allowed in any rigging application.
the bolt is what broke not the shackle so retest with a stronger bolt or weld the eye piece ends on both shackles but hook them before you weld them to a solid block that will fit in your fittings with the least amount of movement and pull on them ... i mean yes i do realize that welding will distort the metal but for real how much would it change that thick of metal🧐 i would like to see this kind of test performed thanks for the vid interesting to watch👍
if you are going to get any soft fiber rope like that made get it done in something like dynex as if the y break they dont recoil and a hell of a lot stronger. have seen a 16mm dynex rope break the chassis of a 51Tn truck before it broke the rope
The soft shackle that came apart at the knot is NOT acceptable. It happens because the soft shackle was not pre-tightened by machine. Beware of these type of non-pre-tightened soft shackles. All BR synthetic shackles are pre-tighened to over 12k lbs. before they shipped. Remember the design of the shackle is just as important as what they are made from. Be safe out there.
I just use climbing rope, non stretch, can handle crazy loads, been in my cab for years, zero risk for all the spectators that usually hang around when you are trying to drag something off the beach.
@@AirCrash1 i was a chain and rigging certifier for 9 1/2 years and also specialised in wire ropes and height safety gear so i do know what i am talking about like if you want good climbing rope buy Aussie or New Zealand made stuff as it has a 10 year life and EU standard rope only has a 5 year life because its not made for high UV conditions
I am a sailor spend 24hrs 7 days a week using ropes to handle tons of force. Not some jobber. I use the best rope for sailing and for shifting stuff stuck in the sand I use an old climbing rope. If I had to replace rope according to "standards" I would be bankrupt by now, you learn by experience if you want to actually do shit and not just talk about it. I suppose if you're in the money making business you have to cover your ass but that aint living.
After reading people's reviews down here they're saying the same thing you're showing a smaller one against the bigger one that's like trying to drink through a straw and then trying to drink through a regular straw
Just where are you going to find a "4x4" that can generate that kind of force. - The M80 tank retriever has it's on shackles so don't worry about using that "soft shackle" Don't know what you are, but I'll tell you what you aint. = An Ironworker, Rigger, or Millwright.
yeah let me tell ya, the frame on 90% of vehicles would tear in half before that yellow shackle breaks lol. If your lucky your full frame (body on frame) vehicle has 3/16" thick steel, much weaker than this guy. Probably 1/2" or 3/4" A36 round stock thats been put through some sort of heat treatment process + work hardening of forming the shackle shape makes it incredibly much stronger than a car frame.
thanks!! ... I've worked as a rigger and crane signalman and frankly i did not even KNOW there were unrated shackles made :( ... I must have 30 or more shackles squirrelled away in the basement here adds there :) ... If I find any unmarked/unrated ones I will throw them out!
You should be fired! How can you even call yourself a rigger if you didn't know shackles need to be stamped with their load rating. You should have noticed if you were inspecting your equipment before any lift (which is required by law by OSHA) and your boss should be fined if not sued for not training you properly. I've seen very bad things happen when incompetence runs wild.
@@pocketchange3543 Interesting commentary and very good points ... but you took my comment kinda the wrong way ... EVERY time I'm on a job I inspect the rigging gear (I'm the guy who will torch a cable sling if it's frayed or damaged for example) .. and yes check the shackle for it's rated load and any deformation (one check is if the SCREW pin is easy to thread in and out if it BINDS it may have been over loaded) ... the fact is I never just never saw a shackle without its proper load rating and manufacture mark etc on it before this video ... if I found an unmarked one on the job, I can imagine I 'd of just thrown it out (and put the pin in my pocket to throw in a separate bin) .. thanks for keeping up the proper procedures on the job BTW!
@@MikeBaxterABC glade to hear I miss understood your comment. I apologize. I've seen a lot of hacks over the years, unfortunately some on the crew I work with.
@@pocketchange3543 Been there! :( .. i stopped a lift once, where the guy stuck a piece or re-rod in the shackle (like a foot long) because he lost the pin and "couldn't wait" :(
Don't the U.S government test imports before allowing sale? Here in Europe all imports have to undergo safety tests before being granted safety certificates. Whenever I buy any rated product the online retailer send me the safety certificate, usually valid for 6 months. Cheap counterfeits such as phone chargers sometimes slip through the system, but I've never heard of counterfeit shackles here in the U.K. I just can't imagine a lifting/rigging firm buying shackles without a test certificate, just not worth the risk.
Just because China can make cheap shit doesn't mean they can't make good shit, heck DJI is awesome. Same story as stuff made anywhere, you get what you pay for!
@@wonderfuldaywithyou the colour means squat all these days as manufacturers make them all sorts of colours so it cant always be relied upon. some Chinese ones are blue but can also be yellow pin but so can some from other countries. i have seen green, blue, yellow, orange, red and even black pins in shackles as well as plain galvanised rated ones. nobles australia do do some nice shackles up to around 1,500 Ton with a 360mm main pin
Okay next time by the same size of shackle from the hardware store cuz they sell them that size to your pairing apples to oranges don't say one size will only hold the way you can buy the same size as a shackle that you had the yellow at the hardware store and black and it will do the same thing
this video totally misses the point the reason steel shackles can be dangerous is not because they break its because whatever they are attached to fails and they become a lethal missile whereas soft shackles dont
Off topic but for a scientific testing site your small V glide rollers are bad engineering. I'm sure that under these conditions they'll last a long time. Just bad engineering. For the tray to travel a foot the larger diameter end of the V roller does not need to rotate as many revolutions as center smaller diameter part of the roller needs to hence the roller is causing drag, it's fighting its self to roll. Depending on how much weight in on the tray and any lubrication that may or may not be present it will alter the readings of the pull. If the dead end of the pull is lower than the live end (the tray) then the more you pull will cause a larger error in the read outs as creates more down pressure on the V rollers and the bad engineering comes into play.
lifting gear for plant etc has a 5 to 1 safety rating ,,, why are you surprised ,,, its 12 to 1 for lifting people ,,, that un rated shackle was little more than a keyring , hardly a fair test as for your soft shackle , its a rope with a knot ,,, so why pay 25 bucks for a bit of old rope ,,,
metallic lifting equipment like chains, hooks and rings etc has a 4 to 1 safety factor and fiber strops are 7 to 1 (international standards) i was a chain and rigging certifier also specialising in wire ropes and height safety equipment for 9 1/2 years as a certifier and another 8 years wire rope specialist and splicer before that and also trained in height rescue. the rope also is not just normal rope these days there are lots of specialist ropes. dynex for instance can pull a 51Tn truck with a 16mm rope and if it brakes is designed not to recoil so it wont come back at you and kill you. you are right about the unrated shackles though and the amount i saw people using them in professional lifting applications was disgusting. and they wounder why they bent or broke.
I can not understand, why to buy a unrated bullshit-shackle. An high strength WLL 4,75t shackle with CE-marking costs only 7€. It would be approved to 23,75t. However, you should have taken an "unrated" shackle of the same size as your approved yellow shackle. Its no surprise that such an smal 1/2" shackle would not carry 30+ tons. Not even an rated one.
Depends on what they're made of. Dyneema D12 Max 99, at 17mm, if you braid like 2 of them together, would be able to hold 2x as much as the yellow steel shackle. One 17mm rope of it holds 38,100 kg (83,820lbs)
Hard to beat steel, used and proven for over a hundred years and used millions of times a day in ultra heavy industry…. Rope is amazing, but can’t be trusted for repeat use over years due to the wear factor…
the important thing to remember with rated bow shackles is only ever put the pin back into the shackle it came out of as 2 different ones may look the same but then the pin fit can be different (can be best to engrave or stamp the shank and head of the pin with a number to match) i was a chain and rigging certifier for 9 1/2 years and seen many fail because of people using the wrong pins. i had a mobile van with testbed system like what was in vid that did up to a 30tn pull so could test anywhere in the country. another very important thing is NEVER believe any rigger that tells you the old method of doing them up then backing off a 1/4 turn. this can leave the pin loose and in fact you can rock the pin in the thread when this is done (they would do it so they could undo it easier) it is dangerous and can spit the pin out and also you will find every time the pin has still gotten tighter as it has stretched the shackle slightly each time until it is to stretched to use. rule is if the pin when screwed in doesn't meet the outside of the shackle (at least flush with the side) discard it as its stretched. the reason they have a hole in the pin is to assist with undoing them as riggers would carry a marlin spike they could put in and twist them off the other reason is if you affix one permanently you can since wire through the hole and around the shank.
I seriously doubt that a rated shackle ever hurt/killed anyone because it failed.
Whatever it was attached to is what failed, launching it.
Contrary to what this guy says, don'r ever use any lifting gear once its been subjected to stresses beyond its rated capacity.
orange soft shackle against an abrupt 90 degree edge started to shear right there and that was the most interesting thing about your tests......sure would have been nice to have actual numbers when each one broke....especially the soft shackle.
35 Tonne from my 4.7T rated shackle - now that's a safety margin right there!!
The title for this video should read "Trolling people who know lifting equipment, trying to kill those who dont"
The total material in the support rings of that yellow shackle is actually the amount of material I need in muscle-frame connections in an exosuit. Seems high carbon forged steel is more worthwhile than I thought. I'm glad I clicked this video.
I don't get why you would compare a unrated shackle without the same diameter of material the rated shackle had. Seems pretty unfair and biased.
Ryan Mcewen-Doris
Not really. They are just showing you should not be cheap when it comes to stuff like this.
Advertising mate..
If they had gotten a hardware store shackle of the same size as the rated one, they would have had similar results..
And that would mean they can't advertise the TJM product as a better product
There is more to a rated shackle than just the diameter of the material, the type of material and how they are made are also factors that determine their rating, an unrated shackle you have no idea what it is and it could be no more than a bent bit of mild steel round bar with a bolt poked through it... Nothing to do with damn brand since you can get unbranded and rated shackles. Use and unrated shackle and you are an idiot.
The test is just to show what to buy and what not. I can guarantee you that a professional brand shackle is much stronger. Those brands get all the material properties exactly right, as the cheap stuff just makes “something”. This is well known in the hoisting & lifting industry.
Well..they are rated now..lol
If you are using a recovery strap with a sewn loop or a traditional nylon sling with sewn loops...a shackle with the proper width and pin size is mandatory. If not you could cut the strap rating by half or more.
The rated things like shackles, rigging straps or similar things used with cranes or heavy equipment are the way to go. They are rated at 1/4-1/5 their breaking point
10:1
@@brianmorrison9066 A factor of 10? Not even. 5:1 is most common for US shackles
As a crane operator(IUOE Local 12) we use good quality steel shackles made in USA only. Mainly because Chinese steel dose not have the same grain structure and usually fails without deforming. USA or German steel will deform considerably before failing. FYI space x uses the shit out of rope slings. They make them on site and they are stronger then steel for the size. Take care.
cool story
Nice story that explains how fucking cheap you are, if you buy only cheap stuff and then generalise the whole country from it. Sorry, but rated stuff is what it says on the label, has certs and costs the same more or less, no matter where it is made.
Ever heard of german, japanese or even swedish steel?
Amarican steel? Bitch, please...
@@alli333o I have, most of it was dug out of the ground here in Australia ;)
Hey cool I’m iuoe 115 , I work with rigging on a daily basis . We us quality Crosby or CM branded shackles . They don’t snap like that one did . I don’t care where they are manufactured they are both a quality branded , and trusted piece of rigging used in most North American industry . But let’s agree on something here, this video was pointless . MORAL OF THE STORY , use correct rigging and practice safest and smartest rigging practices . If your breaking a 3/4” or 7/8” shackle , YOUR DOING IT WRONG !
If you arrange the soft shackle so the knot is @ 90 degree angle to the pull, it might fail @ even higher load. It would be interesting to see this tested.
Legends! Cheers from all of us!
damn. the sharp edge on that soft shackle really shredded it even with the sheath.
Good Stuff, Great Help, Good Tips 👍Thanks!
BTW, Anything "Rated" for lifting / winching in an industrial setting "sure as heck" better survive at least 4x the "rated" Safe working load when new. But that doesn't mean we can use a 5Tonne shackle for lifting 20Tonne, fatigue is a thing.
That soft shackle should only be rated at 2.0-2.5Tonne MAX. At 8Tonne (8000kgf) there is no safety margin.
Anytime any "rope" ( steel or fibre) goes over a sharp edge ( or a tight bend) it really needs protection (ie. a thimble of some type, not a soft sleeve.)
Finally some shackle on shackle action!
another great addition for when you need one is a mooseknuckle split shackle, expensive though.
Standard shackles are stronger but the cool thing about soft shackles is you can attach them to more points for recovery.
How absurd to think you could use the soft shackle a second time in the condition it ended up in.
Bob Pfaff wow your a dick lol. It’s not like there saying use it for lifting lol. If your stuck and that’s what you have bet your ass you’ll use it again. A a crane operator we use good quality steel shackles made in USA only. Mainly because Chinese steel dose not have the same grain structure and usually fails without deforming. USA or German steel will deform considerably before failing. FYI space x uses the shit out of rope slings. They make them on site and they are stronger then steel for the size. Take care.
I think he means as an emergency backup or to possibly double up them. If the knot was retied it would probably take near the same force to break it again so unless you're pulling out someone who is extremely stuck then it would be pretty fine to use
Crosby, Campbell, new holland are the only 3 I trust. I've personally seen all 3 overload numerous times. In the crane and roughing world synthetic slings are quite amazing but they are no where near as strong as steel. That said steel doesnt like to grab round pipe and synthetic is just about the only thing that actually will
Bob Pfaff and on proper rigging it still managed to surpass it's rated weight despite the damage from the previous two tests
I agree with you, but I didn’t know people still used “absurd”.
To all the people saying they should have used the same diameter shackles, you are missing the point, the good quality shackle had a safety factor of over seven, while the cheap one regardless of diameter barely made would have had a factor of 1.5.
Working load limit ratings are for overhead lifting. Breaking strength ratings are for horizontal pulling. Soft shackles have breaking strength ratings, completely different than the WLL the steel shackle rating. But I’m sure all you crane operators and riggers knew that?
Excellent video, thanks!
The metal shackles were not rigged properly. The shackle bolt needs to go through a bored square bar or a heavy wall square tube at a minimum. You put the heavy testing shackle loop against the test shackle bolt which created a single point of load bearing.
Wouldn't it be the same it a real life instance? A single point?
Nope ... Shackles are used (and intended to be used) exactly as they tested them.
Why?! They did the test the way they did and still the shackles all performed over their ratings. Whats the issue here?
they had it correct the only real wrong way to use them is to load side to side of the bolt
The load cell used VanBeest shackles. Buy those.
If you are buying proper shack;es like a crosby. The standard is design factor, aka safety factor is as follows. Carbon Shackle - 6/1
Alloy Shackle - 5/1
I enjoyed the video, and was fun to see the results of the soft shackle. I knew right away it would fail on the sharp edges, but they held up pretty good!
Why would you put the soft shackle directly on the big ass piece of steel with sharp edges?
because someone out there has also done it in a real world situation. put it through their safety chain hole or something dumb like that.
Not a fair test, you have to test an unrated shackle just as big as the rated one.
I'm actually surprised that shitty little shackle took so much. One of similar size would probably actually be quite strong and not be good for their advertising agenda.
No you don't. The test was whether each shackle could take their load limit, and if so how far past the limit it can go. Doesn't matter if the sizes are different, the breaking mark is still the same regardless.
@@DeadpoolWadeW . An issue here is they are calling the "maximum survivable load" the "rating" for a soft shackle. In the real world for a "rated" piece of lifting gear, rated load is typically
@@kadmow that isn't lifting gear, it's off road recovery gear. A soft shackle should not be used for vertical lifting
You will not find an unrated shackle that is the same size as the rated one. If you do then it is probably Chinese junk because it would be a waste of steel and time to make an unrated 3/4" shackle that no one will use
I suspect the soft shackles have too many realistic drawbacks. If they're aged in the sun, they probably seriously deteriorate. They abrade easily. How do they perform when wet with water or gasoline or oil? The metal shackle is the one to rely on.
My soft shackles are all UV proof. They don't abrade if you take care not to use them on sharp edges, or get grit in the weave. They perform 100% with water, and float. I don't use them for lifting, just pulling, where I prefer them to steel. Horses for courses.
FYI, 22mm or 24mm Amsteel blue will have a minimum break strength higher(37,000kg and 44,000kg respectively) than your 19mm "rated"(really should be called under rated) shackle.
Apart from the rope; do this test again with rated and unrated shackles of the same dimensions..
not a good idea. I reckon that the results would be similar enough for the more tight fisted/dim witted to figure that there is no point in spending extra $ on a rated shackle. Not worth the risk of litigation when someone does get killed by an unrated shackle that fails at far less than their test showed. "But Unsealed 4x4 said they break at such and such..." No thanks.
That seems like a dangerously simplistic assessment outcome.
The rated bow shackles are best if you're conducting a static recovery with known good anchors, such as a single line pull from one vehicle to another, or if you're doing a double line through a snatch block to a large tree etc. If you're doing a dynamic recovery, though, using a bow shackle as a link to tie two lines risks turning the system into a weapon system aimed at one of the vehicles, depending on which line breaks. Similarly, linking lines is better to do with a soft shackle, because line failure will result in the stored energy in the other line firing the shackle at the unfailed end.
Soft shackles are better for linking lines, and bow shackles are better for attaching hardware to lines.
its not an issue when you use properly rated gear to proper anchor points knowing the true forces will prevent any breaks in the first place.
@@imchris5000 I think your view on this matter may be somewhat simplistic as well. In static recoveries equipment failures occur due to contract with rocks, vehicle structure or wear all the time, if you've used a steel shackle it will not be the point of failure in any of those examples. In those examples it will be one of the things attached to shackles instead, potentially turning them into weapons.
All of that completely ignores dynamic recovery, in which you may be able to calculate forces for a given recovery with a team of engineers and a week, but in the real world nobody knows.
@@drew79s you over think it. its actually pretty simple its just multiply mass and velocity. the real simple part is just like the manufacture of said shackles have a 5 to 1 or greater safety factor. inspect what you are attaching to dont use broken equipment. almost all breakage accidents come down to one of those three factors.
its the little things like putting tape or tie wire on hooks so you dont end up wearing a chain to the back of the head when the hook unseats from bouncing your truck on it that will keep you alive
@@imchris5000 uh huh... Dynamic recovery loads are dependent on the release load of the recovered vehicle and the total energy input. It will also depend on tm the characteristics of the strap, which will change over time. If you attach a snatch strap to something else with a hard shackle there's always the potential for you to fire the shackle at someone. Similarly having a line move and rub on a rock m result in the loss of a brand new extension in a static recovery.
Hard shackles have a place, so do soft shackles.
👍👍👍👍 Thank you for this review
That green pin 1,1/2 shackle sure held up.
Really, you needed to prove this. Any farmer could have told you this without testing. AGAIN common sense is all that is needed. Some things do not need testing.
Excellent video, I've always been leery of soft shackles and have always used rated D shackles. After watching this I will keep using D shackles, but I might add a soft shackle to the gear as well since it can really help when a D shackle is not ideal.
That's a bow shackle not a d shackle
I prefer the D shackles but would use a soft shackle in conjunction if it were an application where Id actually WANT it to fail before attachment point.
Loved the video and would like to see more soft shackles tested but can we get the outcome in LBS(pounds) as well as kilograms? Some of us backward folks here in the US haven't any reference with kilograms.
consaka1 1 kg is 2.2 lbs. If you just multiply by 2 you'll get a rough estimate
Thanks m8
Hi, @@consaka1.
An even closer conversion is 5 Kg + 11 pounds.
One Australian Tonne - 1,000 Kg = 2,200 pounds.
Just my 0.02.
You have a wonderful day. Best wishes. Deas Plant.
Great video but I don't understand why people keep ruining awesome videos with lame-ass music!
After having 7 out of 8 tjm shocks fail and leak off-road, they are no different to any cheaper brands. Just a premium price to make you think it's quality.
I think the unrated shackles are ok in the larger sizes, after all how many of you actually have vehicles that weigh 4.5 tonnes?
the vehicle may not weigh that much but pulling forces can be very high if it is stuck. i have helped on investigations where people have died because they didnt use the correct shackle
I do.
Weetbix1969
Correct, a snatch on a bogged 3.5 tonne vehicle can generate a spiked force of 20 tonnes with ease...
Interesting test .. and at least to me you proved a good safety point, unrated shackles of any sort are a safety risk..... nothing to do with brand.
An interesting and honest test. Well done.
Seeing the way the soft shackle failed, I will not be getting them. 9 tons, compared to 35 tons for the bow shackle.
Great video. One reason I do not like the soft shackle is the knot needs a big whole to go through. most recovery points are 3/4 in
you feed the loop end through its narrower than the knot
Looks like either the shackle pocket is too wide for the upper shackle, or the bolt is not the right diameter. Try adding washers to the outside of the upper shackle so it fits up in there snug.
Where did you get the shackle mounts?
I was shocked at how well the hardware store shackle held up considering its basically junk... I do have some Stainless ones on the rear of my daily driver car...But they ONLY for recovering the 2200lb (1000KG) car out of the ditch in winter time...they have a breaking limit of 8400lb (3800KG)...and safety factor of 2 (WLL 1900KG), and I use BOTH at same time...
Seek adventure just made some soft shackles at home and tested them. He got 26t before they broke
there's videos like this on people on the interwebz still out there claiming the soft shacking is stronger than metal ones. they don't pay attention to words like WLL vs breaking strength, and lord knows they would never think about safety factors.
in all fairness the rated shackle held until the pin broke so can't see how you can compare that with a much smaller shackle of different metal, an hardware broke ( unrated ) shackles are rated just not to be used for anything other that use on trailer hitch chains ... not unlike the rated shackle which would be used on machinery etc ....
everyone else here came to watch this for learning or comparison purposes but i just wanted to see stuff break
Why was the unrated shackle purposefully smaller than the yellow rated one ?
4.75T WLL is lifting, recovery is double that. 9.5T recovery load limit.
effectively you could as safety factor for pulling is 2 to 1 not the 4 to 1 for lifting but WLL means work load limit regardless of how you are using it
Total bollocks... You need to get your head around the definitions of "pulling" and "lifting" which you clearly DO NOT understand..
Tell me about dry rot and its effect on stowed soft shackles. Were those Grade 8 Bolts?
I prefer weld-on rings personally. 10-ton ones can be had very cheap and if welded correctly, last a lifetime.
So every time you have to attach a ring for a recovery op, you bring your welder along?
@@MikeBaxterABC as in "welded to the bumper before you use them". You hook stuff to them, like chains and straps and winch cables. However, while typing, i assume you mean for connecting cables or straps mid-span. At which point, the clevis pin style from tractor supply/ insdustrial stores are a bit stronger/cheaper, if a not bit ugly. At that much, I just have a couple feet of chain at the end of my winch cable, so I can wrap it around things without adding a strap to the equation. It's an old army method -or maybe I'm just cheap and old fashioned...
@@codymoncrief8478 That makes sense! :) .. was kidding that you used them in place of shackles :) ...
@@MikeBaxterABC although, I could bring my welder and do that anyway to make a statement...
How about testing a couple of marine industry shackles, ?
How should we break this shackle? Lets put it on a bigger shackle!!
I always try not to be negative on comments, but this video is misleading and dangerous for the average joe.
This is not a proper test and don't tell me it is just because it was at a NATA lab, they just test each item and would never agree to this comparison.
The so called soft shackle are nothing more than a single sided monkey (ball) sling (really just a strop) should not even be considered as a shackle its nylon sling and these often snap without any indication of yeald once the limit of stretch is reached. any way who in their right mind would trust the friction on the ball to stop it slipping.
The quality shackle is not surprising to have failed at seven times its rating but now where usable. When I use to test shackles we had to test at 2 times the rating (safe working limit) without any deformation and fully functional for repeat tests etc, and for very special jobs we tested to 3 times with out any deformation. Testing it to destruction is very miss leading some people will think they can easily exceed the limit.
YOU SHOULD NOT DISCUSS ANY THING YOU KNOW LITTLE ABOUT and in fact a couple of minutes research on google would have told you how bad this review is and why you should not have done it.
It's nothing but a marketing scam - an advertisement.
The testing is pure nonsense as you have explained brilliantly.
I don't know if your eyeballs came straight from an ebay fire sale, but they had 3 tests with the soft shackle and 3 times it showed very clear failure indication before letting go.
Meanwhile the metal shackles had almost none.
@@MsSomeonenew i respectfull want to let you know in my personal opinion you are not only wrong but should not open your trap unless you realy do know what you are talking about. 1/ Steel always shows deformation before failure and if you had even the slighest knowledge of working with steel you would know that. 2/ notice i said the nylon strop/sling would fail without notice at the end of its elasticity or stretch and unless you can calculate all the variables for each and ever manufactured sling or you have some mystical insight that no one else in the world has as to when the point of stretch finishes and the falure occures for each and every sling, your assumption is totally rubbish. (A couple of strands breaking early isnot pre notice its already failed)
Sorry but i have worked with both these materials for over 40 years and have the suitable qualification so please feel free to demonstrate where I'm wrong using real science and facts. Good luck.
Sorry to be a bit rough on you but i suppect you may have a reason to defend the unsafe sling that would not be allowed in any rigging application.
the bolt is what broke not the shackle so retest with a stronger bolt or weld the eye piece ends on both shackles but hook them before you weld them to a solid block that will fit in your fittings with the least amount of movement and pull on them ... i mean yes i do realize that welding will distort the metal but for real how much would it change that thick of metal🧐 i would like to see this kind of test performed thanks for the vid interesting to watch👍
please TURN DOWN THE MUSIC so we can hear what he SAID
Can you tell me please what brand is the soft shackle...
Bubba rope makes nice ones
they were not intended for this purpose and are not a shackle, dont use in this application
@@tfsupp Maybe they want to Use it for off road recovery??
if you are going to get any soft fiber rope like that made get it done in something like dynex as if the y break they dont recoil and a hell of a lot stronger. have seen a 16mm dynex rope break the chassis of a 51Tn truck before it broke the rope
I'm suspicious they made it themselves. The head should not have deformed down to nothing if it was made properly.
I'm surprised soft shackles are rated to its MBS
The soft shackle that came apart at the knot is NOT acceptable. It happens because the soft shackle was not pre-tightened by machine. Beware of these type of non-pre-tightened soft shackles. All BR synthetic shackles are pre-tighened to over 12k lbs. before they shipped. Remember the design of the shackle is just as important as what they are made from. Be safe out there.
"This broke 7 times over the working load limit!" That's... how a WLL works...
The fuck are these guys
Oh no!! I don't want to be sent to the naughty corner, do you?!!
Soft shackles don't seem very secure...
they were not intended for this purpose and are not a shackle, dont use in this aplication
Yes they are for sailing. I have a hard time trusting them.
I just use climbing rope, non stretch, can handle crazy loads, been in my cab for years, zero risk for all the spectators that usually hang around when you are trying to drag something off the beach.
climbing rope only has a 5 to 10 year life as it can biodegrade over time especially in higher UV conditions like inside vehicles
@@Weetbix1969 real life results trump Google results
@@AirCrash1 i was a chain and rigging certifier for 9 1/2 years and also specialised in wire ropes and height safety gear so i do know what i am talking about like if you want good climbing rope buy Aussie or New Zealand made stuff as it has a 10 year life and EU standard rope only has a 5 year life because its not made for high UV conditions
and climbing rope does stretch. if you want good rope get dynex dyneema rope
I am a sailor spend 24hrs 7 days a week using ropes to handle tons of force. Not some jobber. I use the best rope for sailing and for shifting stuff stuck in the sand I use an old climbing rope. If I had to replace rope according to "standards" I would be bankrupt by now, you learn by experience if you want to actually do shit and not just talk about it. I suppose if you're in the money making business you have to cover your ass but that aint living.
After reading people's reviews down here they're saying the same thing you're showing a smaller one against the bigger one that's like trying to drink through a straw and then trying to drink through a regular straw
Just where are you going to find a "4x4" that can generate that kind of force. - The M80 tank retriever has it's on shackles so don't worry about using that "soft shackle"
Don't know what you are, but I'll tell you what you aint. = An Ironworker, Rigger, or Millwright.
With proper rigging there should never be anything flying at your head 😑
There shouldn't, but it does happen. That's why you don't stand next to a recovery either, stuff shouldn't happen but it does.
But bogans on the beaches using tow balls means things do fly at peoples heads.
Great video but do we need the loud incessant inane music!
yeah let me tell ya, the frame on 90% of vehicles would tear in half before that yellow shackle breaks lol. If your lucky your full frame (body on frame) vehicle has 3/16" thick steel, much weaker than this guy. Probably 1/2" or 3/4" A36 round stock thats been put through some sort of heat treatment process + work hardening of forming the shackle shape makes it incredibly much stronger than a car frame.
What’s the brand name of the yellow one?
That's a really small, unrated shackle. Plenty are bigger and can easily handle what most people need
I dont trust the soft shackles because they can come apart when bouncing and jerking on the straps
Shackle broke at 38,822 lbs. Not too bad.
You do NOT use once any of them has suffered damage...
thanks!! ... I've worked as a rigger and crane signalman and frankly i did not even KNOW there were unrated shackles made :( ... I must have 30 or more shackles squirrelled away in the basement here adds there :) ... If I find any unmarked/unrated ones I will throw them out!
You should be fired! How can you even call yourself a rigger if you didn't know shackles need to be stamped with their load rating. You should have noticed if you were inspecting your equipment before any lift (which is required by law by OSHA) and your boss should be fined if not sued for not training you properly. I've seen very bad things happen when incompetence runs wild.
@@pocketchange3543 Interesting commentary and very good points ... but you took my comment kinda the wrong way ... EVERY time I'm on a job I inspect the rigging gear (I'm the guy who will torch a cable sling if it's frayed or damaged for example) .. and yes check the shackle for it's rated load and any deformation (one check is if the SCREW pin is easy to thread in and out if it BINDS it may have been over loaded) ... the fact is I never just never saw a shackle without its proper load rating and manufacture mark etc on it before this video ... if I found an unmarked one on the job, I can imagine I 'd of just thrown it out (and put the pin in my pocket to throw in a separate bin) .. thanks for keeping up the proper procedures on the job BTW!
@@MikeBaxterABC glade to hear I miss understood your comment. I apologize. I've seen a lot of hacks over the years, unfortunately some on the crew I work with.
@@pocketchange3543 Been there! :( .. i stopped a lift once, where the guy stuck a piece or re-rod in the shackle (like a foot long) because he lost the pin and "couldn't wait" :(
Good for you! here in Norway i have NEVER seen any marked shackels. buy the biggest that fit.
How about testing a real CROSBY shackle against a chinese counterfeit? The chinese usually fails at half the rated capacity from what I have read.
Don't the U.S government test imports before allowing sale? Here in Europe all imports have to undergo safety tests before being granted safety certificates. Whenever I buy any rated product the online retailer send me the safety certificate, usually valid for 6 months. Cheap counterfeits such as phone chargers sometimes slip through the system, but I've never heard of counterfeit shackles here in the U.K. I just can't imagine a lifting/rigging firm buying shackles without a test certificate, just not worth the risk.
Just because China can make cheap shit doesn't mean they can't make good shit, heck DJI is awesome.
Same story as stuff made anywhere, you get what you pay for!
Green pin shackle is the best.
They're Nobles brand, green pin and blue pin. They're very cheap too if you buy from nobles
@@brianjensen5200 country of origin is important in my industry. Made in China is not preferred.
The blue pin looks like made in China. Am i correct?
@@wonderfuldaywithyou the colour means squat all these days as manufacturers make them all sorts of colours so it cant always be relied upon. some Chinese ones are blue but can also be yellow pin but so can some from other countries. i have seen green, blue, yellow, orange, red and even black pins in shackles as well as plain galvanised rated ones. nobles australia do do some nice shackles up to around 1,500 Ton with a 360mm main pin
Porque esos textos tan grandes y altos ?no dejan ver
Okay next time by the same size of shackle from the hardware store cuz they sell them that size to your pairing apples to oranges don't say one size will only hold the way you can buy the same size as a shackle that you had the yellow at the hardware store and black and it will do the same thing
this video totally misses the point the reason steel shackles can be dangerous is not because they break its because whatever they are attached to fails and they become a lethal missile whereas soft shackles dont
You remind me of Theon Greyjoy
Oof
soft shackle should be rated 4000kg rather than 8000
@CheckAvability most equipment for pulling only has a 2 to 1 safety factor
Is this a s or m shackle
Why was I not surprised at the outcome? Lol
Dum to test different size shackles ...cheap v expensive same size please
Off topic but for a scientific testing site your small V glide rollers are bad engineering. I'm sure that under these conditions they'll last a long time. Just bad engineering. For the tray to travel a foot the larger diameter end of the V roller does not need to rotate as many revolutions as center smaller diameter part of the roller needs to hence the roller is causing drag, it's fighting its self to roll.
Depending on how much weight in on the tray and any lubrication that may or may not be present it will alter the readings of the pull. If the dead end of the pull is lower than the live end (the tray) then the more you pull will cause a larger error in the read outs as creates more down pressure on the V rollers and the bad engineering comes into play.
giving that kind of advice on the soft shackle as it is frayed to f%#k not good what are you thinking if i see you out there stranded ill wave to you
lifting gear for plant etc has a 5 to 1 safety rating ,,, why are you surprised ,,, its 12 to 1 for lifting people ,,, that un rated shackle was little more than a keyring , hardly a fair test as for your soft shackle , its a rope with a knot ,,, so why pay 25 bucks for a bit of old rope ,,,
metallic lifting equipment like chains, hooks and rings etc has a 4 to 1 safety factor and fiber strops are 7 to 1 (international standards) i was a chain and rigging certifier also specialising in wire ropes and height safety equipment for 9 1/2 years as a certifier and another 8 years wire rope specialist and splicer before that and also trained in height rescue. the rope also is not just normal rope these days there are lots of specialist ropes. dynex for instance can pull a 51Tn truck with a 16mm rope and if it brakes is designed not to recoil so it wont come back at you and kill you. you are right about the unrated shackles though and the amount i saw people using them in professional lifting applications was disgusting. and they wounder why they bent or broke.
The rated shackle failed . /five to one is used as SWL -10 to one for lifting personnel . In other words swl on shackle is over rated .
The rated shackle failed at 7.4 X the SWL marked on it .
I can not understand, why to buy a unrated bullshit-shackle. An high strength WLL 4,75t shackle with CE-marking costs only 7€. It would be approved to 23,75t.
However, you should have taken an "unrated" shackle of the same size as your approved yellow shackle. Its no surprise that such an smal 1/2" shackle would not carry 30+ tons. Not even an rated one.
I was always told soft shackles are stronger than any metal shackle
Depends on what they're made of. Dyneema D12 Max 99, at 17mm, if you braid like 2 of them together, would be able to hold 2x as much as the yellow steel shackle. One 17mm rope of it holds 38,100 kg (83,820lbs)
Next time add water to the Rope it would make it more dense and more harder to tear
depends on what the rope is made of, some do not absorb or are affected by water
Replace the pin of the unrated shackle with a bolt long enough to add a nut on the outside and I think it would surprise you .
thats called a safety bow shackle and they will fail just the same. i have tested them both and they fail the same
You really don't want surprises in this business.
Uuu shackel shackel nananananananaa
Hard to beat steel, used and proven for over a hundred years and used millions of times a day in ultra heavy industry…. Rope is amazing, but can’t be trusted for repeat use over years due to the wear factor…
can you play the music a bit louder so i can't hear you anymore at all?
As if I didn't know.