I dont know if this is the problem youre facing, but you might be experiencing some kind of feeding problem. Filament spools hung on the holder of the sv06 plus have a tendency to bend the holder slightly due to their weight. This causes the spool to slide forward and onto the end of the spool holder. This puts strain between the filament spool and the filament sensor at the top. This is because it goes into the filament sensor at a weird and sharp angle, causing friction. It might be less of a problem when the extruder is further down since there is more slack and thus the problem of friction is a more spread out problem, but the higher you go, the less material, and thus the less slack there will be. Im not sure though.
I love my SV06+. 5015 fan for parts cooling. Klippered and installed a ercf 6 filament system on it with a homemade filament cutter for color changes. All in all i have about $600 in the entire thing and have the ability to do 6 colors.
Great review! I own the SV01 (not the Pro) and am very happy with the prints. I'm considering upgrading with the BLtouch and silent board, or replacing with a SV06 plus. What's your opinion?
Very informative review. Thank you. I replaced $3000 worth of QIDI FDM printers that I couldn't keep running with a $238 SV01 over two years ago and it's been great. Unlike the QIDI 3D printers, the Sovol printer uses inexpensive and readily available parts. Also unlike the QIDI printers, it's reliable, and when it did need a new hot end heater, the open architecture was very easy to access. I'm inclined to upgrade to a later model by Sovol, but I want Klipper.
@@ZFGFZDGDFG - I probably would like a Sovol SV07 or SV07 Plus, but my Elegoo Neptune 4 Pro arrives tomorrow. I'm stoked to be getting a Klipper machine with all steel motion control components and enhanced part cooling. I might be in the market for a Neptune 4 Plus Max (420 mm cube build volume) when it becomes available, for the rare times I want to print something BIG.
Hey Ricky, great video! I really enjoyed your review of the SV06 and your insights on it. It's an impressive printer. I completely agree with you about Klipper. It's a powerful firmware that can significantly enhance printer performance. I'm also interested in upgrading my Ender 3 with Klipper and a Pi, but the installation process can be daunting. I don't want to risk making mistakes or spending endless hours searching for solutions. It would be amazing if manufacturers offered preinstalled Klipper units or easy-to-use upgrade kits. That way, we could enjoy the benefits of Klipper without the hassle. Thanks for sharing your thoughts, Ricky!
It sounds like the Sonic Pad would be a good option for you. It's pretty straight forward with an Ender 3. They have included printer profiles that you select during setup. I have video guides for all of this too.
I got the SVO6 Plus a few weeks ago as my first 3d printer. I really like the printer so far. Its been running alot and I'm getting less mess ups as time go on. The thing that I dislike the most about it is having to deal the the mico SD card all the time. I've discoverd OctoPrint and I set it up on an old laptop and it now runs the printer. Is OctoPrint about the same thing as the Sonic Pad with Klipper?
It's sort if similar in the way you interact with it but it's actually quite different. With Octoprint and your stock firmware, the printer's control board is still doing the work, you can just send the files to it remotely and control it in some other cool ways. Klipper actually has the additional board doing the work and your printer's control board just does what it's told when it comes to moving the stepper motors.
I had the same problem with large, tall prints - it’s the damn filament sensor. They mounted it mostly fixed in position next to the spool, instead of on the tool head (for some reason, despite the tool head breakout PCB having a plug for a filament sensor), and as the tool head gets closer to the spool vertically but farther horizontally, the filament starts to drag in the sensor and causes uneven extrusion. Move the filament sensor to the tool head (you’ll need to make a cable for this, but it’s easy) or just bypass the stupid thing.
I see what you mean and it was my first thought too but I tried a few things I didn't show in the video and I'm not convinced that's all it is causing the quality and layer shift issues. I agree the design isn't perfect though.
I have really enjoyed a lot of your content. Could you please do a review of the Big Tree Tech Pad 7. I have a Creality Sonic Pad and really like to know if there are any notable differences. i have watch your entire series on the Sonic pad and my printer is working the best it ever has!! thank you.
Ricky please consider the SV04 dual extruder to review. I have the Creality Max Neo and Neo V1 but have been wanting a dual extruder and the SV04 looks good for the price.
Hey Sovol is now shipping this printer with Kipper (they call it Klipper screen). Wonder if you have had time to review that or Sovol has sent you a unit to test?
Also if you replace the fan shroud, you can use regular volcano nozzles instead of Sovol’s garbage proprietary ones - the best one I’ve tried so far is from SavageLau on Printables, the “Hurricane” one.
I have printed a large lamp shade that filled up almost the whole volume, without an issue on my SV06 plus. But I use a Sovol drybox for the spool, so no big spool on the spoool holder. Maybe that is causing the wringing effect, as @MM-fc8ie writes. It is not plain sailing however with this printer. While I could print ASA quite well in an enclosure it now doesn't anymore, with kicking over objects and creating spaghetti. During my attemps to fix this I tried to replace the nozzle (at 200 degrees Celcius), but broke the nozzle. I have to wait for a replacement nozzle now. I bought a raspberry pi 4 for Klipper, so I will see how big the benefits of Klipper are. Aside from a speed bump I am wondering whether quality can be improved, as it was already quite good at 40 mm/sec (aside from later problems with ASA)
I really do not understand how is it possible that the auto bed leveling works for everyone just not for me. Like it is close enough, but I can see nozzle is too close in front left corner and to far in right front corner. Rest of the bed is pretty much ok. I have tried everything. Leveling z axis automaticaly (by going up to the stoppers) then run auto bed leveling. I tried leveling Z axis by switching off the motors and manually moving left side, manually seting hight to bed using sensor, than moving right and manually setting height to bed using sensor, then run auto bed leving (and save it off course). Nothing works as perfect for me as for you the reviewers. It is my first printer so it is possible I am doing something wrong, but I have followed so many different videos... I am actually thinking about purchasing DIN 988 washers (0,1mm thick) and putting them under the bed to lift rest of the bed closer to hight of right front corner. (I also dismantled the printer Z axis and make sure I assembled it to be really straight up using 90° steel ruler). Problem is I am perfectionist and just ok is not good enough for me I want to achieve bed leveling you presented.
i have many problem with this print, after spend time on all adjust and setting make some good print but when i try to print i notice z offset was high and the left side was more high that the right side! so remake all setting make z offset very low and now i print but still the quality have issued, i switch from 0.4 to 0.6 steel nozzle, now i prepar to install 5015 fan
it IS great, for it's price point, you can upgrade it all you like to be "great" and end up paying about the same as one of the "great" modals/brands. bells, whistles and wizbangs cost more.
You have a relatively tall Z axis gantry that has no bracing to the bed, with a 1kg spool of filament on top, coupled with a print that is adding more inertia to the bed as the print gets taller. Then a wavy print design that swings the bed back and forth.This is a good recipe for setting up sway in the gantry, magnified the higher up the print head travels. Sure you can improve it with Klipper, but I would start by moving the filament from the top of the printer to the table and bracing the top of the Z axis gantry to the printers base, like in the CR 10 Smart Pro.
"at no point do you have to do any bed leveling".. snort. Don't get me wrong, I love my 06 and plus.. but.. hope you don't get one made on a Monday or Friday.
So the inexpensive XL printer failed at a newly designed torture test print made by you and tested by no one, and yet no other printers have been shown to successfully print it. You may be able to draw in CAD 3D space, yet the ridiculousness of your thought process paints you as unintelligent. And no, I don't own a Sovol...but your thinking on this one is poor at best which is really disappointing. MIM gears and other MIM parts fail all the time. The failure rate is low, but mass production means it will happen. This is not unique to any direct drive extruder, and exists in the auto and firearm industry to name a few. Then you slap on an upgrade(Klipper Pad) and re-test without showing what the average buyer would experience? Jesus dude, you are all over the map.
@@actualreplyguy I am brash because there are many, many more who cannot see logical fallacies. His videos can be great, and some are, but nothing makes change like being shown your errors in thinking. You say we think different...true, and in some ways I am too critical. I think of the people who are turned away from a product by an influencer because of a slight struggle...an irresponsible one as well. A voice to others should be held with higher standards. His sample of one printer that he had minor issues with are not how the printer should be viewed. Had he known anything about manufacturing, he would know the real weaknesses are completely different than he stated. Not the 1 in 10,000 MIM parts. The injection molded parts are weak as are the bearing choices which are worse, yet he cannot see it.
@@CuttinInIdaho you have an axe to grind or something? Guy literally went step by step about how he got around the problems he was facing -- which was to install Klipper. There were no leaps in logic.
![🔴 [TRỰC TIẾP] Tứ Xuyên (Trung Quốc) VS U20 Thái Lan | Cúp VTV9 - Bình Điền 2024 | JET STUDIO](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/bguJ41PcW0c/mqdefault.jpg)
![🔴 [TRỰC TIẾP] Tứ Xuyên (Trung Quốc) VS U20 Thái Lan | Cúp VTV9 - Bình Điền 2024 | JET STUDIO](/img/tr.png)
I dont know if this is the problem youre facing, but you might be experiencing some kind of feeding problem. Filament spools hung on the holder of the sv06 plus have a tendency to bend the holder slightly due to their weight. This causes the spool to slide forward and onto the end of the spool holder. This puts strain between the filament spool and the filament sensor at the top. This is because it goes into the filament sensor at a weird and sharp angle, causing friction. It might be less of a problem when the extruder is further down since there is more slack and thus the problem of friction is a more spread out problem, but the higher you go, the less material, and thus the less slack there will be.
Im not sure though.
I'd love to see a Sovol Klipper setup from you!
You can buy them with kipper already on for an extra $99 USD
Great review. I own a Sovol SV03 but I rather pick up the sv04. It's a little more expensive but you get more options.
I love my SV06+. 5015 fan for parts cooling. Klippered and installed a ercf 6 filament system on it with a homemade filament cutter for color changes. All in all i have about $600 in the entire thing and have the ability to do 6 colors.
Another great video Ricky, I have the sv06, print quality is great for the money, I fancy trying the sv07, with klipper already installed
Great review! I own the SV01 (not the Pro) and am very happy with the prints. I'm considering upgrading with the BLtouch and silent board, or replacing with a SV06 plus. What's your opinion?
Is there any way you can make a specific video on your exact setup on installing klipper on this specific printer and Pad 7.
Very informative review. Thank you. I replaced $3000 worth of QIDI FDM printers that I couldn't keep running with a $238 SV01 over two years ago and it's been great. Unlike the QIDI 3D printers, the Sovol printer uses inexpensive and readily available parts. Also unlike the QIDI printers, it's reliable, and when it did need a new hot end heater, the open architecture was very easy to access. I'm inclined to upgrade to a later model by Sovol, but I want Klipper.
youll be happy with the svo7/7plus now then
@@ZFGFZDGDFG - I probably would like a Sovol SV07 or SV07 Plus, but my Elegoo Neptune 4 Pro arrives tomorrow. I'm stoked to be getting a Klipper machine with all steel motion control components and enhanced part cooling. I might be in the market for a Neptune 4 Plus Max (420 mm cube build volume) when it becomes available, for the rare times I want to print something BIG.
Hey Ricky, great video! I really enjoyed your review of the SV06 and your insights on it. It's an impressive printer. I completely agree with you about Klipper. It's a powerful firmware that can significantly enhance printer performance. I'm also interested in upgrading my Ender 3 with Klipper and a Pi, but the installation process can be daunting. I don't want to risk making mistakes or spending endless hours searching for solutions. It would be amazing if manufacturers offered preinstalled Klipper units or easy-to-use upgrade kits. That way, we could enjoy the benefits of Klipper without the hassle. Thanks for sharing your thoughts, Ricky!
It sounds like the Sonic Pad would be a good option for you. It's pretty straight forward with an Ender 3. They have included printer profiles that you select during setup. I have video guides for all of this too.
@@RickyImpey I was thinking about that option too. Thank you, Jason
They now sell a sovol klipper upgrade for under $100. It’s basically the same setup as the svo7 with klipper and a network app access.
I got the SVO6 Plus a few weeks ago as my first 3d printer. I really like the printer so far. Its been running alot and I'm getting less mess ups as time go on. The thing that I dislike the most about it is having to deal the the mico SD card all the time. I've discoverd OctoPrint and I set it up on an old laptop and it now runs the printer. Is OctoPrint about the same thing as the Sonic Pad with Klipper?
It's sort if similar in the way you interact with it but it's actually quite different. With Octoprint and your stock firmware, the printer's control board is still doing the work, you can just send the files to it remotely and control it in some other cool ways. Klipper actually has the additional board doing the work and your printer's control board just does what it's told when it comes to moving the stepper motors.
I had the same problem with large, tall prints - it’s the damn filament sensor. They mounted it mostly fixed in position next to the spool, instead of on the tool head (for some reason, despite the tool head breakout PCB having a plug for a filament sensor), and as the tool head gets closer to the spool vertically but farther horizontally, the filament starts to drag in the sensor and causes uneven extrusion. Move the filament sensor to the tool head (you’ll need to make a cable for this, but it’s easy) or just bypass the stupid thing.
I see what you mean and it was my first thought too but I tried a few things I didn't show in the video and I'm not convinced that's all it is causing the quality and layer shift issues. I agree the design isn't perfect though.
To be clear, I have the exact setup as you, the printer and the bigtreeteck pad 7. But I can connect to the printer at all.
I have really enjoyed a lot of your content. Could you please do a review of the Big Tree Tech Pad 7. I have a Creality Sonic Pad and really like to know if there are any notable differences. i have watch your entire series on the Sonic pad and my printer is working the best it ever has!! thank you.
Coming soon!
Ricky please consider the SV04 dual extruder to review. I have the Creality Max Neo and Neo V1 but have been wanting a dual extruder and the SV04 looks good for the price.
Hey Sovol is now shipping this printer with Kipper (they call it Klipper screen). Wonder if you have had time to review that or Sovol has sent you a unit to test?
I’m looking at this printer vs the kobra 2 plus, which would you recommend? I
I’m having a extreme hard time with this printer. The pad is completely setup, but the printer will not connect at all 🤔😫 I rely need some help
I believe the nozzle is the same as the Creality k1 Nozzle
Also if you replace the fan shroud, you can use regular volcano nozzles instead of Sovol’s garbage proprietary ones - the best one I’ve tried so far is from SavageLau on Printables, the “Hurricane” one.
Good tip, I'll check it out
I have printed a large lamp shade that filled up almost the whole volume, without an issue on my SV06 plus. But I use a Sovol drybox for the spool, so no big spool on the spoool holder. Maybe that is causing the wringing effect, as @MM-fc8ie writes. It is not plain sailing however with this printer. While I could print ASA quite well in an enclosure it now doesn't anymore, with kicking over objects and creating spaghetti. During my attemps to fix this I tried to replace the nozzle (at 200 degrees Celcius), but broke the nozzle. I have to wait for a replacement nozzle now.
I bought a raspberry pi 4 for Klipper, so I will see how big the benefits of Klipper are. Aside from a speed bump I am wondering whether quality can be improved, as it was already quite good at 40 mm/sec (aside from later problems with ASA)
I really do not understand how is it possible that the auto bed leveling works for everyone just not for me. Like it is close enough, but I can see nozzle is too close in front left corner and to far in right front corner. Rest of the bed is pretty much ok. I have tried everything. Leveling z axis automaticaly (by going up to the stoppers) then run auto bed leveling. I tried leveling Z axis by switching off the motors and manually moving left side, manually seting hight to bed using sensor, than moving right and manually setting height to bed using sensor, then run auto bed leving (and save it off course). Nothing works as perfect for me as for you the reviewers. It is my first printer so it is possible I am doing something wrong, but I have followed so many different videos... I am actually thinking about purchasing DIN 988 washers (0,1mm thick) and putting them under the bed to lift rest of the bed closer to hight of right front corner. (I also dismantled the printer Z axis and make sure I assembled it to be really straight up using 90° steel ruler). Problem is I am perfectionist and just ok is not good enough for me I want to achieve bed leveling you presented.
Rick do you have a video coming up for the Ps!. I don't trust any of these other "reviews" aside from yours.
Than you.
Ps?
I think he means Bambulabs P1S.
Do ya still use this printer at all 🤔
i have many problem with this print, after spend time on all adjust and setting make some good print but when i try to print i notice z offset was high and the left side was more high that the right side! so remake all setting make z offset very low and now i print but still the quality have issued, i switch from 0.4 to 0.6 steel nozzle, now i prepar to install 5015 fan
Can ya add klipper to this printer ?
Yes I just purchased my sv06+ from sovol with klipper shipped with it. Was 359$ total
@@Cetraphal how ya enjoying the sovol 6 plus so far
it IS great, for it's price point, you can upgrade it all you like to be "great" and end up paying about the same as one of the "great" modals/brands.
bells, whistles and wizbangs cost more.
same problem with ender 7 and all the problem solved with klipper
You have a relatively tall Z axis gantry that has no bracing to the bed, with a 1kg spool of filament on top, coupled with a print that is adding more inertia to the bed as the print gets taller. Then a wavy print design that swings the bed back and forth.This is a good recipe for setting up sway in the gantry, magnified the higher up the print head travels. Sure you can improve it with Klipper, but I would start by moving the filament from the top of the printer to the table and bracing the top of the Z axis gantry to the printers base, like in the CR 10 Smart Pro.
Had it and sent the crap back. I had a lemon.. with issue after issue. Even rusted parts
"at no point do you have to do any bed leveling".. snort. Don't get me wrong, I love my 06 and plus.. but.. hope you don't get one made on a Monday or Friday.
Do I need to do anything special on the codes because I'm not using a R-pi? [mcu] is not showing up at all, I need help
I truly dislike Klipper for open frame bed slingers.. doesn't make sense to me.. the prints are just weak as you increase speed.
🤭 P R O M O S M
So the inexpensive XL printer failed at a newly designed torture test print made by you and tested by no one, and yet no other printers have been shown to successfully print it. You may be able to draw in CAD 3D space, yet the ridiculousness of your thought process paints you as unintelligent.
And no, I don't own a Sovol...but your thinking on this one is poor at best which is really disappointing. MIM gears and other MIM parts fail all the time. The failure rate is low, but mass production means it will happen. This is not unique to any direct drive extruder, and exists in the auto and firearm industry to name a few. Then you slap on an upgrade(Klipper Pad) and re-test without showing what the average buyer would experience? Jesus dude, you are all over the map.
I'm not sure what's the need to be so brash here. Maybe you don't think in the same terms as him, and that's fine, but I find his reviews valuable.
@@actualreplyguy I am brash because there are many, many more who cannot see logical fallacies. His videos can be great, and some are, but nothing makes change like being shown your errors in thinking.
You say we think different...true, and in some ways I am too critical.
I think of the people who are turned away from a product by an influencer because of a slight struggle...an irresponsible one as well. A voice to others should be held with higher standards.
His sample of one printer that he had minor issues with are not how the printer should be viewed. Had he known anything about manufacturing, he would know the real weaknesses are completely different than he stated. Not the 1 in 10,000 MIM parts. The injection molded parts are weak as are the bearing choices which are worse, yet he cannot see it.
@@CuttinInIdaho you have an axe to grind or something? Guy literally went step by step about how he got around the problems he was facing -- which was to install Klipper. There were no leaps in logic.
@@actualreplyguy re read my comment without your emotions clouding your comprehension...no axe to grind. I can't help you with logic though.