A restack is must. It's how it should have been from factory. It was the way the JDM ones where installed I put a 12 plate kit in mine. What a difference.
You'll love it. I have the rear diff restacked and you get that little bit of slide, but it never feels like you lost control. The rear will just follow the front. It's great.
Nice video. Im juatt about to do mine with a 12 plate kit. Wouldn't you need to reset pinion preload and check backlash since you took the piniot nut off?. Im contemplating replacing bearings while im in there.
Don't you need to reset the "differencial back lash" for the diff gears when repacking or building a diff? Because Improper reset could cause damage the gears and overheating. That's what I was always told. i bring that up because you didn't mention it.
@@sf2372 That’s true, but reusing the olds ones not a good idea. I’ve had my fair share of rebuilding Auto Transmissions with the diff built in the Housing and always replace those.
If I was going through the effort of pulling the diff I would definitely check the backlash and contact pattern. New bearings would be a great idea too
How much did you re torque the companion flange after the rear main seal went in? I’m on the struggle bus right now. Seems way too tight t the factory 137 lb ft
Do you have a P.O box? I have a brand new lightweight mustache bar you can have even though you just cerakoted yours. Saving 20 lbs is why you need it. 8 pack is good, go for the 12 plate mod next then it handles like a rwd drive but pulls from the front in the end, you can drift awd like rwd now.
Quick question, my evo is currently running lean and is bogging while under throttle when accelerating. Changed spark plugs, still same issue. Any thoughts?
Every time I watch a video you put out I have the instant urge to completely go through my car at redo everything. Great video boss, as always. Look forward to seeing how the freshly modded rear diff works out.
Just a bit of advice from and engineering mind. You should put an external control to monitor the internal temp of that oven your using. What am I saying your a professional, I'm sure you've already thought about it.
They stacked them weird for the USDM market since they where worried about the diff ratcheting and Americans complaining about the noise since it's a mechanical diff.
They purposely stacked the plates like that so it would cut down on people oversteering their cars into things. Think of what happened when the Focus RS (drift mode) came out.
You’re gunna have to re seal the diff. The RTV will dry and its only held down by 2 bolts; which isn’t an even seal. Same thing happened to my crank case . I forgot to add a bolt and the RTV dried. I added the bolt and it still leaked.
Not entirely sure on how the car will behave on Decel, but it will have that 1.5 way affect on acceleration as its essentially locking up more. Might be a bit noisy too on bends. I have done a similar mod on my transfer case to get the torque split to be more responsive.
Just to clarify 1.5 way refers to full locking force on acceleration (the 1 part) and reduced locking on decel (the .5 part). 1 way = only lock on acceleration and 2 way = full and equal locking force on both. Noise in this application is negligible unless you solid mount it. The jdm and euro market Evo comes with the plates stacked in this “upgraded” configuration from the factory. Mitsu restacked them to be less aggressive for the American market to promote understeer as it’s “safer”
Ceracoat and powdercoat the world....
At this rate I think he should get a sponsorship since that seems to be all he does with parts. Good protection plan but meh.
It’s entertaining watching Devin breaking parts down rebuild them and making them new again
I agree!
very much so
Agreed. Dream of doing this one day. Devin motivates me everyday. Just don’t have enough funds. Gotta figure that out first
@@B0LT53 just stay focused and be positive. It can happen bro
Agree
Bobbi is a ledge! Just a friendly reminder 😄👊🏻
I restocked my plates and added four more for a 12 plate. It handles perfectly
It's mine and my wife's anniversary (17 years married) and I watching your channel! Haha it's going to look killer when it's done!
It’s mine and my wife’s anniversary today too 5 years we’ve been married and 10 1/2 years together
The diff looks great, nice work Devin!
A restack is must. It's how it should have been from factory. It was the way the JDM ones where installed
I put a 12 plate kit in mine. What a difference.
You'll love it. I have the rear diff restacked and you get that little bit of slide, but it never feels like you lost control. The rear will just follow the front. It's great.
5:35 hahahaha this is why Devin's the best
Saw it and came in the comments to see who else saw XD
I am loving this amazing late Devins video I know he was super busy today with this evo differential
Nice video. Im juatt about to do mine with a 12 plate kit. Wouldn't you need to reset pinion preload and check backlash since you took the piniot nut off?. Im contemplating replacing bearings while im in there.
Final product looks great Devin! The re-stack does indeed make a difference. Specially combined with a front LSD, whole different car.
Devin, you're living the dream. Thanks for sharing it with us, and for giving me a reference on how to rebuild my Evo part by part. You da man. 👍
Don't you need to reset the "differencial back lash" for the diff gears when repacking or building a diff? Because Improper reset could cause damage the gears and overheating. That's what I was always told. i bring that up because you didn't mention it.
I think as long as he replaced the shims in their correct positions it shouldnt really change imo.
@@sf2372 That’s true, but reusing the olds ones not a good idea. I’ve had my fair share of rebuilding Auto Transmissions with the diff built in the Housing and always replace those.
If I was going through the effort of pulling the diff I would definitely check the backlash and contact pattern. New bearings would be a great idea too
spent more time refinishing the rear end than super charging the m3! I love how it's turning out
Diff came out looking 🔥
I have a TRE 12 plate and it’s fire. You’ll get a lot more neutral handling and on power oversteer if you provoke it
Loving the go pro first person videos. Keep it up!
This gotta be a sema build for sure
Dont know who is the only one person who dislike this video, curious because all of Devin's work is simply awesome
I love learning about evos..
Mucho Fuego!! 🔥🔥🔥
I'm gona ceracoat my trany because of the ceracoat jobs you've done. Sheesh.
How much did you re torque the companion flange after the rear main seal went in? I’m on the struggle bus right now. Seems way too tight t the factory 137 lb ft
The diff is perfect
Nice work 💪
Carbon fiber drive shaft?
2:04 oh Doctor Devin!😁
Do you have a P.O box? I have a brand new lightweight mustache bar you can have even though you just cerakoted yours. Saving 20 lbs is why you need it. 8 pack is good, go for the 12 plate mod next then it handles like a rwd drive but pulls from the front in the end, you can drift awd like rwd now.
Heck yea
‘Child abuse’ haha. You guys are hilarious!
Quick question, my evo is currently running lean and is bogging while under throttle when accelerating. Changed spark plugs, still same issue. Any thoughts?
Nice car Man
I think we need from you to talk about AYC pump in Evo X Devin
Every time I watch a video you put out I have the instant urge to completely go through my car at redo everything. Great video boss, as always. Look forward to seeing how the freshly modded rear diff works out.
You should have painted the silver part on the rear diff yellow
Just a bit of advice from and engineering mind. You should put an external control to monitor the internal temp of that oven your using. What am I saying your a professional, I'm sure you've already thought about it.
Your rear may make a little noise during differation.
Notification squad 🔥
Devin try old wheels from 10 on blue evo 8
Should epoxy that floor my guy, will save u alot of time an effort cleaning & looks great as well
“… Only time it actually works.” Amen brother.
SICK!
They stacked them weird for the USDM market since they where worried about the diff ratcheting and Americans complaining about the noise since it's a mechanical diff.
Also worried about people pulling the " mustang guy " leaving car meets and stuffing them into walls
Well done Devin, looks really great keep up the grind.... 👌👀
My rear diff is leaking y’all think it can just be the cover that I just need to re seal?
When a diff leaks its usually the axle seals or pinion seals or the cover
Could be. Depends on where it's leaking. Resealing it on the car shouldn't be too hard.
What is the degrease cleaner you use?
looks good
Aluminum drive shaft
Wondering if a IV diff can be restacked...
4 is JDM so why re stack? The way he stacked his is the way the 7/8/9 came in the mother land 🗾
@@jo-qp7mz I now understand, Thanks brah!
This is talent
I’ve said it once and I’ll say it again-DVN>TJ
Awesome vid as usual but damn you I know want to do my Cupra parts once the stage 2 plus build is sorted lol.
They purposely stacked the plates like that so it would cut down on people oversteering their cars into things. Think of what happened when the Focus RS (drift mode) came out.
Your evo is 🔥🔥🔥
Numbers of bearings and seals I would complete the video perfectly...
👍🏻
They're not stacked "wrong" they're stacked less aggressive for the US market.
I love your channel
aye
Bro mount that vice already... lol
💯🔥👌🏽
Noti game
Next investment is gonna have to be a bigger oven
You’re gunna have to re seal the diff. The RTV will dry and its only held down by 2 bolts; which isn’t an even seal. Same thing happened to my crank case . I forgot to add a bolt and the RTV dried. I added the bolt and it still leaked.
Lookin sweeeeeet
We need an r6 ride
Not entirely sure on how the car will behave on Decel, but it will have that 1.5 way affect on acceleration as its essentially locking up more. Might be a bit noisy too on bends. I have done a similar mod on my transfer case to get the torque split to be more responsive.
Just to clarify 1.5 way refers to full locking force on acceleration (the 1 part) and reduced locking on decel (the .5 part). 1 way = only lock on acceleration and 2 way = full and equal locking force on both.
Noise in this application is negligible unless you solid mount it. The jdm and euro market Evo comes with the plates stacked in this “upgraded” configuration from the factory. Mitsu restacked them to be less aggressive for the American market to promote understeer as it’s “safer”
Devin love the videos man… but for fuuuuuukkkk sake bolt down the vise 💀 keep up the great videos though awesome content!
😲
"Put your mask on, the only time it actually works" I love this guy😂
won’t wear a mask to save lives *wears a mask when fixing cars*
👋heloo
😋
Munnyonyooo
Sleepy joe lol
Lol driveline is the entire drivetrain... the driveshaft is what you keep calling driveline
1st