out of all the videos on youtube of setting the timing on a 1990 f150 5.0 you are the most informative thank you . you explained it as simple and as accurately as possible
how are you going to see strobing light illuminating the number on the harmonic balancer, with external light source. You missed the point of the video
Get a Actron CP9690 code tester. It checks live, record, graphing, transmission code testing, oxygen sensor tests, ABS, SRS, solenoid and relay test, timing advance test, and MORE! It works on 1983-2013 and is updatable. EBAY has it. Get the Uactivate AES#07-80 relay circuit tester. Also, AES lineSPI ( Smart BOB) . Get the Power Prove IV and AES wave U scope.
Keep at 10 deg btdc, the computer needs that to be so it can advance to where it needs it to be. You might get better mpg, but you might be confusing the computer and or getting ping. Which basically is too hot of a detonation. These engines are plug and play if there is any hiccups or misses, it's usually vacuum or emission components. i.e. map , o2 sensor , iac , etc. etc.
I have been running it for some time now at 14 degree's base, but i have to say that the mpg is still about 12, which isn't that wonderful. So i am planning on going back to 10 degrees and testing it. I can tell you that i didn't have any ping at 14 degree's, and she sounded a really good. I want to put up more videos, so maybe this will be the first video I put up. Thanks for the comment, Mike
@DIYMikeT I know this was 9 years ago, but I need help please sir. I got a 92 and I am replacing my old distributor and I didn't mark any points, so..... on my new one I didn't put it in with the rotor pointing at the right cylinder and it wouldn't start and it barley cranked over so I pulled it out and now I'm afraid to try it again because I don't wanna mess it up any worse.
Life's Happening 0 seconds ago I have an '85 and the spout is a single yellow wire wth a connector, at the base of the distributor, not a "loopback plug" like he has. Just disconnect that yellow wire. This actually keeps the computerfrom taking control so you can get a "base" timing. **NEVER CONNECT OR DISCONNECT THE SPOUT WHILE THE VEHICLE S RUNNING!!!**
Im having trouble timing my truck, it wont start now but it did start the first time but i didnt take the spout out and it must of advanced it. Well I'm curious does the harmonic balancer indicator need to be on 0, -10, or 10 degrees when the bug is pointed at the number one spark wire?
I have another question ...When pulling my Harmonic Balancer off do i need to set my timing (Balancer )back to 0 before pulling the Harmonic Balancer ? I'm wanting to change my timing chain which i know it have to be set to 0 and lining up right ...Thanks for the Video and answering my Question quickly ...I have so much i need done to my 1995 Ford F150 4x4
I tried this and came across a issue, when I replug the spout back on the timing goes back to what it was before, but when I unplug it. It goes back to what i set it at, i have a 93 lightning and the engine has been rebuilt, not sure if that matters. Also the timing is at 24, very high but sounds and drives just fine
The manual I have says to disconnect the SPOUT wire. I haunted for an hour for it. The book never gave a clue so I will look again for what you showed. Motor manuals are severely lacking anymore.
I have an '85 and the spout is a single yellow wire wth a connector, at the base of the distributor, not a "loopback plug" like he has. Just disconnect that yellow wire. This actually keeps the computerfrom taking control so you can get a "base" timing. ***NEVER CONNECT OR DISCONNECT THE SPOUT WHILE THE VEHICLE S RUNNING!!!***
He did a good job over all but the ending was interesting I think a bong may have been involved ..the 5 litre ford 1990 truck is the best truck ever made ...I own one I got for 200.00 and its on propane as well as gas I wanted to check the timing and did not have a book ..GREAT VID 10 out of 10 and A+ fpr Effort Sad part is you got 6172 hits and 3 comments we could be/should be comparing notes here !
I am going to check the ending , but I can assure you that no bongs were used in the making of this video. Your bong comment made me laugh though. I am glad that you got some use out of the video. Thanks for the comment Mike
Yes, Ford 302 and 351 have the same base timing of 10* before TDC. I put mine back at 10 degrees after some initial testing at 14 *. I thought I might get some extra MPG, but that didnt pan out. So I would set it at the factory timing of 10 degrees. Otherwise you might run into issues of pinging(detonation) at higher degrees.
I would think you would have pinging at 4* below TDC(BTDC). The fuel would ping(detonate) before the spark plug could ignite. Remember your on the compression stroke , and at 4 * BTDC your almost TDC, so you would have a lot of heat built up, because of the compression. I dont know what would happen if you set ignition timing after TDC. Got me thinking
Thanx Iwas guessing @above or below, It's been a long time since I worked on the Ford. I didn't remember ever pulling the little white cap tho. So I did that today. It used to be hard to start after it warmed up and driven for a while and it seemed high compression was the issue with advanced timing. fyi: For gas economy in my one ton E350- aluminum wheels/highway tires, remove A/C compressor/brackets/surpentine and clutch fan anduse a 5 blade stays cooler, remove all pollution keep oxygen censors all working(still passes Emissions) remove rear heater 4 rows of seats. gets 15/16...Then I bought a Chev 3500 17/19mpg and the Ford is getting ready for sale.. Thanks again.
Mark Adams Time is always good test of workmanship.I will put a current video of the truck running, thanks for watching my videos.I have a new pool plastering video series that will officially start next Monday, March 16,2015check it out if your interested
Also have a 90 ford f150. I need to also do the timing since I replaced the distributor but if it doesn't have the timing indicator? I've marked the 10degree on the balancer.
Was there a video before this one? What was the whole need in putting the timing at 10-14 ATDC? Reason I ask is that I have a 90 bronco with the 5.8. I had to replace 2 push rods because of bad fuel. long story short something went wrong and now I have been forced to redo the timing and its been a job. I do agree this is one of the better videos that goes into detail about the spout connector. I have the timing set, #1 on tdc, distributor cap on the # 1. I cannot get the thing to even idle enough to set the timing. I have tried to turn the distributor both ways while semi running with no luck. but it do I need to pull the distr. and try and the rotor button after or before the #1 to see if that helps.
+RockstarGTA1 I was experimenting with the timing set at 14* degrees TDC, For improved Gas Mileage. The difference was negligible, so later on I put it back to factory BTDC 10* Before ignition timing is done you must make sure that your Number 1 chamber is at TDC on the compression stroke(Top Dead Center or piston head is at the top, near the head ), I would start there and throughly check that its at that position. There is a video in my series, where talk about when a piston is at TDC at the compression stroke. Its probably the videos i was installing the pistons, check it out. The order I remember the timing scheme being was piston 1 (TDC@compression stroke), timing gear(alignment), then ignition timing. If any of those are not right, its not going to run right.
I know I read your comment a while ago, but I never noticed that you thought I put the timing at "10-14 ATDC", I set my base timing to 10-14 BTDC(not ATDC).
I'm confused here ! Did you turn the distribator while the motor was on to get your 14 degrees ...I'm a dummy here about the timing so thats why im asking ?...I have a 1995 ford f150 4x4 and i'm trying to set my timing ....I'm having a jerking in the motor while driving at low speed and spoke with a mechanic he says the fords have a issue of timing jumping
Yes. once you set the base timing(10 degrees BTDC, 1990 Ford F150), remember base timing is what you set the distributor at with the grey plugged pulled ,taking the computer out of the picture. Once you set the base timing, put the grey plug back in and the computer will take over. That is when you can now "play" withe timing at idle to see what is best for you. Make sure your base timing is at what is recommended for your vehicle. Look at any haynes manual it will give you teh right number for your year of vehicle.
So because your motor is fuel injection you put it at 15 degrees and I seen videos that they put them at 36 degrees at 2500 rpm but they have carburetors and 350 and 302 is there a difference
Austin did you notice any performance difference? If you didn't hear any pinging maybe you could have left it at 14°. In the long run you could have squeezed just a few mpg better. Better performance would be another reason to leave it set there.
I have a '93 XLT w/351 W, EFI & I can't find that SPOUT plug anywhere, the book (Hayne's/Chilton) both have different pics or none at all. A little disappointed with the Chilton's, they're usually better than Hayne's!?!
The order I remember the timing scheme being was piston 1 (TDC@compression stroke), timing gear(alignment), then ignition timing(Base timing) at 10* BTDC
its not a fuse, its the computer controlled timing connector. Disconnecting it will allow you to set your base timing. Once your base timing is set, you plug in the grey plug, and the computer takes back control of the timing
@@jerrodjenkins4291 I am not sure what your asking. If you have done any work on the timing chain( replaced it and/or moved the sprockets), pulled out the distributor(and moved the number one piston from its initial position), pulled the engine to be rebuilt . You have to set the base timing, that requires the grey plug to be pulled. Remember: Piston 1 should be TDC, time Chain sprockets need to be aligned. Drop your distributor in and match to mark on the engine(for Piston 1 tdc), then set ignition timing( Base timing 10 degrees BTDC for ford 302 in video). Thats the overview, if just trying to do set the ignition timing, and you have engine like mine, then pull grey plug and set base timing( Base timing 10 degrees BTDC) by rotating the distributor, then lock down the distributor, plug the grey plug back in. Then the computer will take back control of the timing(what is called Total Timing) Base timing+ advance timing= Total Timing
Thanks for that info I have a 351 I rebuilt the motor timeing TDC after finding out my ECU was bad I didn’t pull the gray plug didn’t no about it so got it TDC but when I drive it’s rpm base low so I think if I plug that plug n retime it might do better great video
@@jerrodjenkins4291 I would shoot for that first, when you timing try to put a little white paint or white out on the 10 degree mark. Make sure that you engines base timing is 10 degree BTDC though( google it)
how are you going to see strobing light illuminating the number on the harmonic balancer, with external light source. You missed the point of the video
how are you going to see strobing light illuminating the number on the harmonic balancer, with external light source. You missed the point of the video
how are you going to see strobing light illuminating the number on the harmonic balancer, with external light source. You missed the point of the video
how are you going to see strobing light illuminating the number on the harmonic balancer, with external light source. You missed the point of the video
![NISAMANEE - TADA (ท้าดา) [ OFFICIAL MV ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/hcQHEPMmJpU/mqdefault.jpg)
Cylinder 1 is the one at the front of the passenger side bank on V8 models. The first cylinder on the straight 6 is at the radiator end.
out of all the videos on youtube of setting the timing on a 1990 f150 5.0 you are the most informative thank you . you explained it as simple and as accurately as possible
+mrgenius64
Thank you for the nice comment, I appreciate it
By the way I got the truck running got this out of my shop :)
just got an 88 shortbed 4x4 4sp this video helped tremendously its so smooth now
I am glad it helped,
regards mike
nice lighting my boy i could see everything your were talking about
how are you going to see strobing light illuminating the number on the harmonic balancer, with external light source. You missed the point of the video
You got the best video very descriptive and clear thank you
Thank you,i am glad it helped
I am from Venezuela and I thank you very much for the video since I have many faults since I did not know about the "gray fuse" (Google translator XD)
Honestly mike I can’t thank you enough your video really helped me out! Thank you!✌🏼✌🏼
Your engine sounds great! Nice work on the rebuild.
Thanks,
Get a Actron CP9690 code tester. It checks live, record, graphing, transmission code testing, oxygen sensor tests, ABS, SRS, solenoid and relay test, timing advance test, and MORE! It works on 1983-2013 and is updatable. EBAY has it. Get the Uactivate AES#07-80 relay circuit tester. Also, AES lineSPI ( Smart BOB) . Get the Power Prove IV and AES wave U scope.
Keep at 10 deg btdc, the computer needs that to be so it can advance to where it needs it to be. You might get better mpg, but you might be confusing the computer and or getting ping. Which basically is too hot of a detonation. These engines are plug and play if there is any hiccups or misses, it's usually vacuum or emission components. i.e. map , o2 sensor , iac , etc. etc.
I have been running it for some time now at 14 degree's base, but i have to say that the mpg is still about 12, which isn't that wonderful. So i am planning on going back to 10 degrees and testing it. I can tell you that i didn't have any ping at 14 degree's, and she sounded a really good. I want to put up more videos, so maybe this will be the first video I put up. Thanks for the comment,
Mike
@DIYMikeT
I know this was 9 years ago, but I need help please sir. I got a 92 and I am replacing my old distributor and I didn't mark any points, so..... on my new one I didn't put it in with the rotor pointing at the right cylinder and it wouldn't start and it barley cranked over so I pulled it out and now I'm afraid to try it again because I don't wanna mess it up any worse.
Camera is all over the place, but i got the jist of it. Thank you for posting the video
Life's Happening
0 seconds ago
I have an '85 and the spout is a single yellow wire wth a connector, at the base of the distributor, not a "loopback plug" like he has. Just disconnect that yellow wire. This actually keeps the computerfrom taking control so you can get a "base" timing. **NEVER CONNECT OR DISCONNECT THE SPOUT WHILE THE VEHICLE S RUNNING!!!**
Im having trouble timing my truck, it wont start now but it did start the first time but i didnt take the spout out and it must of advanced it. Well I'm curious does the harmonic balancer indicator need to be on 0, -10, or 10 degrees when the bug is pointed at the number one spark wire?
I have another question ...When pulling my Harmonic Balancer off do i need to set my timing (Balancer )back to 0 before pulling the Harmonic Balancer ? I'm wanting to change my timing chain which i know it have to be set to 0 and lining up right ...Thanks for the Video and answering my Question quickly ...I have so much i need done to my 1995 Ford F150 4x4
I tried this and came across a issue, when I replug the spout back on the timing goes back to what it was before, but when I unplug it. It goes back to what i set it at, i have a 93 lightning and the engine has been rebuilt, not sure if that matters. Also the timing is at 24, very high but sounds and drives just fine
Ernesto Carrillo you might have your vacuum advanced hooked up to full manifold vacuum and not ported vacuum
The manual I have says to disconnect the SPOUT wire. I haunted for an hour for it. The book never gave a clue so I will look again for what you showed. Motor manuals are severely lacking anymore.
I can't find mine either.
That's correct
What wire? It is not where it should be? 1993 F150 351 W/EFI
@@hankbridges5055
7:10
I have an '85 and the spout is a single yellow wire wth a connector, at the base of the distributor, not a "loopback plug" like he has. Just disconnect that yellow wire. This actually keeps the computerfrom taking control so you can get a "base" timing. ***NEVER CONNECT OR DISCONNECT THE SPOUT WHILE THE VEHICLE S RUNNING!!!***
Excelente explicación me encanto el video
He did a good job over all but the ending was interesting I think a bong may have been involved ..the 5 litre ford 1990 truck is the best truck ever made ...I own one I got for 200.00 and its on propane as well as gas I wanted to check the timing and did not have a book ..GREAT VID 10 out of 10 and A+ fpr Effort
Sad part is you got 6172 hits and 3 comments we could be/should be comparing notes here !
I am going to check the ending , but I can assure you that no bongs were used in the making of this video. Your bong comment made me laugh though. I am glad that you got some use out of the video.
Thanks for the comment
Mike
You da man for this video! Very informative very clear!
Thanks -- very helpful!
very good demonstration! thank you very much...
I have a E350..is it the same for 351 as yours:10 -14* on the indicater? I thought it was TDC, or 4* below or above TDC?
Yes, Ford 302 and 351 have the same base timing of 10* before TDC. I put mine back at 10 degrees after some initial testing at 14 *. I thought I might get some extra MPG, but that didnt pan out. So I would set it at the factory timing of 10 degrees. Otherwise you might run into issues of pinging(detonation) at higher degrees.
I would think you would have pinging at 4* below TDC(BTDC). The fuel would ping(detonate) before the spark plug could ignite. Remember your on the compression stroke , and at 4 * BTDC your almost TDC, so you would have a lot of heat built up, because of the compression. I dont know what would happen if you set ignition timing after TDC. Got me thinking
Thanx Iwas guessing @above or below, It's been a long time since I worked on the Ford. I didn't remember ever pulling the little white cap tho. So I did that today. It used to be hard to start after it warmed up and driven for a while and it seemed high compression was the issue with advanced timing. fyi: For gas economy in my one ton E350- aluminum wheels/highway tires, remove A/C compressor/brackets/surpentine and clutch fan anduse a 5 blade stays cooler, remove all pollution keep oxygen censors all working(still passes Emissions) remove rear heater 4 rows of seats. gets 15/16...Then I bought a Chev 3500 17/19mpg and the Ford is getting ready for sale.. Thanks again.
Sounds good. But do a up date video on the truck. I would like to see if it lasted.
Mark Adams Time is always good test of workmanship.I will put a current video of the truck running, thanks for watching my videos.I have a new pool plastering video series that will officially start next Monday, March 16,2015check it out if your interested
Also have a 90 ford f150. I need to also do the timing since I replaced the distributor but if it doesn't have the timing indicator? I've marked the 10degree on the balancer.
Look for one on the internet. Call a dealer to be sure. Set it at 10°.
Was there a video before this one? What was the whole need in putting the timing at 10-14 ATDC? Reason I ask is that I have a 90 bronco with the 5.8. I had to replace 2 push rods because of bad fuel. long story short something went wrong and now I have been forced to redo the timing and its been a job. I do agree this is one of the better videos that goes into detail about the spout connector. I have the timing set, #1 on tdc, distributor cap on the # 1. I cannot get the thing to even idle enough to set the timing. I have tried to turn the distributor both ways while semi running with no luck. but it do I need to pull the distr. and try and the rotor button after or before the #1 to see if that helps.
+RockstarGTA1
I was experimenting with the timing set at 14* degrees TDC, For improved Gas Mileage. The difference was negligible, so later on I put it back to factory BTDC 10*
Before ignition timing is done you must make sure that your Number 1 chamber is at TDC on the compression stroke(Top Dead Center or piston head is at the top, near the head ), I would start there and throughly check that its at that position. There is a video in my series, where talk about when a piston is at TDC at the compression stroke.
Its probably the videos i was installing the pistons, check it out.
The order I remember the timing scheme being was piston 1 (TDC@compression stroke), timing gear(alignment), then ignition timing. If any of those are not right, its not going to run right.
I know I read your comment a while ago, but I never noticed that you thought I put the timing at "10-14 ATDC", I set my base timing to
10-14 BTDC(not ATDC).
I'm confused here ! Did you turn the distribator while the motor was on to get your 14 degrees ...I'm a dummy here about the timing so thats why im asking ?...I have a 1995 ford f150 4x4 and i'm trying to set my timing ....I'm having a jerking in the motor while driving at low speed and spoke with a mechanic he says the fords have a issue of timing jumping
Yes. once you set the base timing(10 degrees BTDC, 1990 Ford F150), remember base timing is what you set the distributor at with the grey plugged pulled ,taking the computer out of the picture. Once you set the base timing, put the grey plug back in and the computer will take over. That is when you can now "play" withe timing at idle to see what is best for you. Make sure your base timing is at what is recommended for your vehicle. Look at any haynes manual it will give you teh right number for your year of vehicle.
do you turn the distributor clockwise or counter clockwise to advance the timing?
clockwise
So because your motor is fuel injection you put it at 15 degrees and I seen videos that they put them at 36 degrees at 2500 rpm but they have carburetors and 350 and 302 is there a difference
do u turn the distributer counterclockwise to advance it? i know thats right for a 350 but wasnt sure if thats right for a 302?
storminnormanz I used a timing light when adjusting and didnt take note of spin direction.
***** but the distributor does does turn counter clockwise just like the oil pump .
clockwise to advance
Can You make another video whith more darkness
when i bought mine the timing was at 16-17 degrees. didn’t ping or anything but decided to set it to 12
oh right at the tip their.
what way do you turn the distributor to get to the 10 mark
counter clockwise
I'm doing this as well for MPG, I heard 14 didn't help at all, did it help more when you put it back to 10? Also thanks for the video =)
I put it back to 10 BTDC after trying it at 14 degrees BTDC. I didntn gain in noticable MPG, if any.
I didnt see real difference, between 14 degrees and 10 degrees. I put back more for piece of mind. YOur welcome, I am glad the video helped.
I didnt see real difference, between 14 degrees and 10 degrees. I put back more for piece of mind. YOur welcome, I am glad the video helped.
Thanks, I did it set to 12, no different at all so set to 10 just to keep it standard.
Austin did you notice any performance difference? If you didn't hear any pinging maybe you could have left it at 14°. In the long run you could have squeezed just a few mpg better. Better performance would be another reason to leave it set there.
I have a '93 XLT w/351 W, EFI & I can't find that SPOUT plug anywhere, the book (Hayne's/Chilton) both have different pics or none at all. A little disappointed with the Chilton's, they're usually better than Hayne's!?!
I got an OBD1 reader on ebay, $23.
It's a grey rectangular jumper connection about 1/2 " in size connected to a bundle of wires
@@bobbybergdoll4377 that's good, better than trying to decipher the Morse code check engine light
I got that from your video (Thanks!) but i stil have not found mine...@@DIYMikeT
so I should have the balancer on 10° btdc not 0° tdc????
The order I remember the timing scheme being was piston 1 (TDC@compression stroke), timing gear(alignment), then ignition timing(Base timing) at 10* BTDC
If one of those are out, then it will not run right.
Need to replace your negative battery cable.
good engine
What’s the name of that fuse
its not a fuse, its the computer controlled timing connector. Disconnecting it will allow you to set your base timing. Once your base timing is set, you plug in the grey plug, and the computer takes back control of the timing
So what if I didn’t take it out set the reset the time will that cause a problem
@@jerrodjenkins4291 I am not sure what your asking. If you have done any work on the timing chain( replaced it and/or moved the sprockets), pulled out the distributor(and moved the number one piston from its initial position), pulled the engine to be rebuilt . You have to set the base timing, that requires the grey plug to be pulled.
Remember: Piston 1 should be TDC, time Chain sprockets need to be aligned. Drop your distributor in and match to mark on the engine(for Piston 1 tdc), then set ignition timing( Base timing 10 degrees BTDC for ford 302 in video).
Thats the overview, if just trying to do set the ignition timing, and you have engine like mine, then pull grey plug and set base timing( Base timing 10 degrees BTDC) by rotating the distributor, then lock down the distributor, plug the grey plug back in. Then the computer will take back control of the timing(what is called Total Timing) Base timing+ advance timing= Total Timing
Thanks for that info I have a 351 I rebuilt the motor timeing TDC after finding out my ECU was bad I didn’t pull the gray plug didn’t no about it so got it TDC but when I drive it’s rpm base low so I think if I plug that plug n retime it might do better great video
@@jerrodjenkins4291 I would shoot for that first, when you timing try to put a little white paint or white out on the 10 degree mark. Make sure that you engines base timing is 10 degree BTDC though( google it)
what does is mean if my balance just keeps spinning
Are the numbers on the harmonic balancer and I just cant see it?
domino diamond I rubbed it with some chalk and wiped the excess off. Now I can see it.
domino diamond do I rotate it until I see 10btdc then start car . And if I want to advance use distributor?
You working at night?
how are you going to see strobing light illuminating the number on the harmonic balancer, with external light source. You missed the point of the video
Flashlight
if their was a flashlight , you couldnt see strobing effect of thedegree markers on the balance wheel.
So no, a flashlight would not be helpful
Cylinder 1 is on the first on the RIGHT bank
He's on #1 wtf?
Ford is passengers side for #1. Passenger side is 1-2-3-4 and drivers side is 5-6-7-8. Not like a GM at all.
30mins in and you still haven't turned the fucking light on???
how are you going to see strobing light illuminating the number on the harmonic balancer, with external light source. You missed the point of the video
I can't see s***turn the goddamn light on
then how would see the strobing light hitting the numbers on the balancer
Video too dark
how are you going to see strobing light illuminating the number on the harmonic balancer, with external light source. You missed the point of the video
What bull crap never once did you show how to advance the timing by turning distributor and to much mum’s and ash’s bs
you keep saying sooooooo You should not EVER make another video unless you know how to do things and verbalize them HOLY SHIT
It sucks recording 😡😡
how are you going to see strobing light illuminating the number on the harmonic balancer, with external light source. You missed the point of the video