I don't remember my grandpa, I was too young when he passed. This gentleman seems like he is one hell of a grandpa! All other videos showing how to adjust timing need to be removed and this one be pinned to the top! Thank you sir!!!
After watching three separate videos about setting timing with a light and moving the distributor. yours is the first that doesn't have vertigo inducing camera shots, little to no description about the process and proper lighting to show what and where the work is to be preformed. a big thanks to someone who cares about actually informing those of us who are genuinely interested in keeping our trucks running and out of the hands of mechanics and dealerships alike. albeit that your video isn't exclusively about setting timing it still has way better content than the more specific videos here on YT. Two thumbs up sir!
Hey I just wanted to say you seem like a old fella you has been around awhile and I just wanted to say thank you for sharing your knowledge with the rest of us.
I just adore you..thank you so much...just from how your explaining step by step you are a very honest guy..""mechanic"". And thats a rare thing ..god bless you...thank you for sharing your video
Thanks for making this video! Really helped me set the timing on my dad's '87. The last guy set it to top dead center for some reason! It runs a whole lot better at twelve degrees than zero.
If you didnt crank or move your engine,theres no need to point the rotor to number one sparkplug or turn the crank pulley to get the piston at TDC. Just mark your distributor cap and rotor as well as the body or base of the distributor to block. Then when all is marked pull out the distributor, then put it back the same way and then time it.
Thanks Jerry. This is true on a running and timed engine and good advice. On my video the engine had blown the timing gear it is a guess as to where the timing stopped at. Also, the person I bought it from had someone working on it (trying to get it running) and I am sure it was rotated quite a bit. Your point is well taken and good advice for working around distributor timed engines.
Thank you SO MUCH. The other vids I have seen show NOTHING that clarifies Like this one does. Been fighting with My 87 F150 302 EFI for Months, frustrating myself and my over the phone helper. Easy to see what's UP With YOUR GREAT Video. Tired of hearing talk, NEEDED to SEE...
Another good way for a compression stroke is use a tube with a little balloon or rubber glove finger taped around the tube it fills with air there you go
Well, I gotta tell you. I don't care if Henry Ford came back to life and said this would work on a 96 or not, it doesn't. Good video, it clearly works for some.
I’m with you man, my 88 is irritating me so bad. I install distributor just like this, put a timing light on it and it runs best at 30 degrees btdc. It’s supposed to be 10. Still runs like garbage!! Beyond frustrated
@@marcusaddis5502 That truck was a "Z" model. California emissions, special parts throughout it. Literally a 1% truck. As in only 1% of the entire line was like it. Ended up selling it for twice its worth. Now I have way more free time to do things like work for a living. No time for Fords anymore. My GM is flawless.
Steve.- I have an 1988 ford Ranger 2.3 L, with 610,000 Miles on. It runs wonderful. I am changing the Distributor at the end of the month. (I know that the shaft and the gear are worn out) I liked your video very much. Thanks.
awesome video. I like the relaxed and easy sound of the country music and the birds chirping in the background. I'm pretty sure I heard a peacock or guinea fowl. either way, awesome vid. keep up the good work!
awesome video. I like the relaxed and easy sound of the country music and the birds chirping in the background. I'm pretty sure I heard a peacock or guinea fowl. eith
I’m really hoping you’ll see this soon. I’m trying to get to TDC on my 86’ f150. I tried the paper towel trick and I’m not 100% sure I had it stuffed in enough, and I turned the motor all the way around, counter clockwise til it got back to my number dial. Do I have to try cranking it again or would it be safe to assume it hit the compression cycle? Would it hurt to try again?
I am thinking you should be turning it clockwise. If you can stick a soda straw in the spark plug hole and it hits the piston at the top after you have stopped rolling it around, and the Timing Mark is lined up with the Zero on the engine tab, then you should be at top dead center. Do not lose the straw into the spark plug hole. A long very thin screwdriver will work as well. Hope this helps. Thanks!
Hi I have a couple of questions. On the left hand side of the harmonic balancer is where you set TDC and the right side are some marks on a cover of some sort. My question is do you time the engine to the marks on the side you lined up TDC ?
Thank you so much I watched this video fifty times and figured my truck out. I have never done anything like this and you made it happen. I caught my carb on fire. I think it was my timing . I was breaking in my new cam and had to keep it running. I still had the timing set to zero. If I put a new carb on should I set the timing to ten degrees bdc with a timing light, or could I just set it to ten on the scale. I left the spout plugged in when it was on zero. My hayes manual is vague. This is the best video I have found on here thanks again. p.s. I love the music I don't care what that guy said
Hey Paul thanks for the nice comment! I always disconnect my spout and then set the timing. If there is a sticker with the specs (timing etc) use the setting they recommend. And, I always use a timing light when setting timing. With that carb fire it sounded like your timing was a bit off. That is a good reason to always have an air cleaner on the carb...in case it pops back...no air no flames. Be prepared for something like that. A good fire extinguisher is nice to have handy as well. It has happened to me on several occasions as well. Be safe! Thanks SteveAZ711
Hi! This video is super helpful. Although I have a problem, what if I am on the compression stroke on the number one spark plug at tdc, But 0 degrees is still far away from the correct timing mark.. any ideas??
Timing chain has slipped or the gear is stripped... Make sure you are on compression stroke and not on exhaust stroke. Both instances will have the piston in the top position. Compression stroke will push your finger out of the #1 spark plug hole if the gear or chain is ok then TDC will line up on 0. Also make sure your are reading the correct mark on the crankshaft pulley. It is a very faint line on mine. I marked it better with some chalk.
Yes you probably going to be breaking the front down for a new timing kit. Depending on the mileage and the previous maintenance schedule that has been run on the vehicle you might want to think about head gasket as well.
Thanks, that was informative. Doing a head job on a 1995 E250, van, 4.9 liter, 300, auto and have a question for you if you might know and care to answer. Ford makes this confusing and a Haynes manual is no help. You are using the notched scale on the left side of the harmonic balancer. What are the ones to the right on the timing cover for ?? One just above the balancer and then again, upward right with a "TDC" on it ?? Would just like to know what that's for other than to confuse.
Ok this is my uneducated guess...Ford started this i6 (262 cu in.)engine in the 1960's. The 4.9l i6 came along in 1965. I believe the marks you are referring to are left overs from previous casting stocks. It is possible that in order to save retooling costs they just used previous castings( that fit perfectly.) However, that is just a guess and maybe Ford really only knows. Good question as they are so confusing.
@@SteveAZ711 I thank you for your great video on this topic. I just installed a CSG-649 version of this engine (from an Onan Generator) into my 84 F150. The timing marks on the cast gear cover are for the old style vibration dampers, which have their marks in the correct position, so the timing marks to use depend on the harmonic balancer pulley in use. I can tell you this without any doubt. Again thanks, as your video helped me see how things *should* go in my truck- which was a basket case.
Hey BTVRN73 thanks! I gotta tell ya those Guinnea Fowl can be a nuisance at times...especially when I am trying to concentrate on some tough problem. Thanks for the comment and Thanks for watching!
Cars Trucks And Detours hello I have a 1980 f-150 4.9 6 inline and I need to adjust the lifters or valves you have a video or can you give me your advice please...Thank you
cool video best one on distributor for newbies and im sure mechanics can benefit from this . why did u say u werent pleased with the very fast idle at start ....isnt it normal for it to idle high at first then it idles back down on its own.
Yes it seems to be the norm for it. The computer makes the decision according input and the idle does come back down fairly quickly as it warms up. I guess I was expecting something less than 2000 rpms at first. Also, I disconnected the clutch pedal safely start switch ( did not grow up with those and always made sure trans was in neutral), so if I made a mistake and started it in gear...2000 rpms was going to make it leap pretty good. I always put the clutch pedal in anyway as to take the load off the engine in a cold start situation anyway. Thanks for the comment...thumbs up!
Love your video , I have a 1985 ford 150 I just bought cause it not run , they put many parts from new carb , spark plug wires , and more . If you not said when you were putting the distributor in, ~ the distributor cap holes on down from your 87 is to be across . My distributor is line up as your pickup ! I thinking they put the distributor in for 87 ford specs . When I have time will start from beginning of your video to end . Mine dose not have a computer to keep it in right time . I know you know what I mean as my pickup is 85 . - will have to put a timing light on if this is the problem . Just know it did run and back fire and a 20 mile trip died in my drive way ! Will not fire now where ever I move the distributor to - where be for it half ass run all most any where move to . By the way why I got a the pickup all most free is cause it was not starting like yours . I took the safety clutch control off clutch rod and wire the 2 wires straight across . Just got to make sure the clutch is in or not in gear starting . But as of now that part will be my new safety part next if I find why my engine not hardly firing now .
I loved this video. Thank you so much, only one I have found that's worth watching! Haha. I am confused on the position of the distributor bolts, I have an 89 f150 inline six but if I have the distributor in the position that you have it on yours, the wiring is kinked because it doesn't wanna travel that far...it's like it should be in the position you mentioned about an "86 and beyond that" however it is an 89... I'm stuck, it's a project truck and was 180 out but still ran, now I'm back where I started with the distributor in the position in the video, it doesn't want to start. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Robert
Afternoon sir question that i have is i follow the same step you have shown in this video and i really apriciates it has help alot, my question is its starting to back fire trew the intake alot of sputtering i.have check the wires any clue what might be thanks im having no luck thanks
Check the firing order( wires on proper plugs?) Sounds like the timing is off. Go through the whole procedure for the top dead center on #1 compression stroke, and then take your distributor cap off and see where the rotor is pointing. It should be pointing to #1 plug wire.
That is the smallest scratch of a timing mark on the harmonic balancer!!! I had to polish the entire pully to finally see a glint of a mark. I then painted the spot and when that dried was able to mark a visible line. Miles of cussing later.
This is the distributor install for the initial timing. Final timing is done with a timing light. Disconnect the Spout connector and set the timing according to the Vehicle Emissions label located somewhere in the engine bay. Thanks!
Like you I noticed the similarity of the Chevy module to this Ford. I had an 80"s Malibu that a module went out on me some 35 years ago. I never tried doing a swap, but I think I would give it a try if that is all I had. If you knew the voltages and could match the pins with the connector in the right places, then it may work. I just don't know, but it sure is an interesting idea Pedro.
@@SteveAZ711I i take my 95f150 4.9 to a mechanic shop die on me so they put a new distributor but now idle low and some times die I wonder if I Ned to adjust that distributor
I have an 81 f150 with a 300. I am very confused by all of this and was looking for some clarification. You had the engine timing set at TDC when you put the distributor in and then said something about letting the computer take it from there. Is that really all that needs to be done? I was under the impression that it needs to be somewhere around 10 degrees BTDC. Also when you say the computer, what are you referring to? The ignition module box? My engine is currently totally out of whack and it just pops and almost backfires when I try cranking it. I’m trying to get my timing back into place to fix this and am just really stumped here. Is this process different for a carbed engine? Please help me I’m very puzzled, thanks.
My year engine has a SPOUT(spark output) connection from the distributor to the computer. I disconnect that, then I manually set the timing at 10 degrees while the engine is running, shut it off, tighten the distributor clamp, and then I reconnect the SPOUT connection and the computer adjusts the timing etc. for different conditions. It sounds like your engine timing is not correct. MAKE SURE you are using the correct timing mark on your balancer pulley! Also, pull the #1 plug and bring the cylinder up to TDC, then remove your distributor cap... and if your timing is correct...the rotor will be pointing to the #1 terminal on the cap. If not, you are not timed correctly.
Cars Trucks And Detours haha. Turns out the gear on my distributor shaft sheared off. No wonder I had timing issues😂. I appreciate the time you took to write a thought out reply, it shows that you really care about your viewers. I will be using this video to get the timing straight with my new distributor.
1994 Ford F150 4.9L 300 Straight 6 Timing Mark's and Distributor the same. But my distributor looks different from the book. This one I got doesn't have a module like yours. So does the timing have a different set up for 94 Ford F150 300-6
Check the left side fender. The module was moved (not sure what year) to the fender for better heat dissipation. Look to the right of the steering column on the fender. It will look much different than the one in my video.
Look around where the hood hinge attaches, it may have cooling fins on it. I believe what you found previous post was the ECM(computer), and yeah, they are pricey. You want the distributor ignition module.
@@SteveAZ711 ok will try that but if that doesn't work I'll double check the timing. But it should start even of the timing is off but it will run rough idle.. but I got the timing correct from this 94 300-6 (just realized I have no spark what so ever) so it could be the ICM (on fender)
@@trevlouie I have a No Spark going on with my 94 E-250 4.9 that has 309,000 miles. Owned it for 20 years now. Was an old sears service to your home truck out of Mountain Home, Ar. Third motor. Found this one on Facebook Marketplace for $200 with 74,000 miles, one owner. After 9,000 miles on it and it running good it decided to do a no spark. Won't start unless i take out the Spout Plug. So when you do that, its bypassing the ECM( computer), so you can get home, without the ECM. I heard that advice from Scanner Danners video's , Best guy for wiring problems and diagnosis. I thought it was the coil and the pickup in the distributor so i replaced the whole distributor and the ICM and coil. Still no spark, unless i take out the spout. So, now i have a remanufacture ,in Mexico, ECM sitting right here and plan on installing it soon. Autozone cost was $164 plus core $44. The ICM they sold me was bad ,out the box, so I put the old one back on and found out it still works. I should of bought motorcraft, not duralast. Their new distributor does not have a cut out or groove inside the shaft for (oil pump shaft) the 'C" ring retaining clip, to seat in. It will not lock on tight, like the original. It has some friction though. I just hope it doesn't fall back into the oil pump or the oil pan , now, during installation or later down the road. Maybe I should of rebuilt the old one. Saving it for later along with the ECM- Original Computer. Now if i could just get the distributor in right. Thats where this mans video come in. Thanks.
Whats the reason for timing gear replacement? My truck has ran ok since i got it ive put 3500 miles on it, and running rough, blowing white smoke at startup and smells to run rich
Thanks and yep I had a talk with the editing guy and he said he will try to do better. I think he is getting better in some of the newer videos.Thanks for the comment! Remember to click that notification bell if you haven't already done so.
Did you rotate your motor back to 10 degrees TDC after installing the distributor? Or does your vehicle call for it being at 0 degrees? Thanks for any info.
I installed the distributor at 0 degrees. Then with the spout connector disconnected I started the engine and set the timing at 10 degrees Btdc, shut the engine off and then I reconnected the spout connection and let the computer handle the timing.
@@SteveAZ711 thank you so much for the reply. Is a timing light needed? I am currently doing this. I set the timing mark at 10 degrees btdc then put the distributor in. Is that okay or should i start over?
thank you for your videos...i was hoping you could tell me how to prime my oil pump?...ive heard id have to pull my distributor but i dont want to mess with that and the timing please let me know thank you
Hello, What I have done in the past to get my oil pressure started is to remove the coil wire from the DISTRIBUTOR and the COIL (so as not to have a spark flying around the engine bay). I then turn the engine over just like I was trying to start it. I Do this in short bursts so as not to hold the starter to the point of overheating. I generally see something on my gauge after a few tries. Thanks for the Comment!
someone told me that you cant just pull the distributor out because the oil pump is connected to it and you might drop something where you cant retrieve it. Whats that all about? I just want to remove and replace.
The Oil Shaft rod, hexagon shaped, is inserted into the bottom of the distributor shaft and held there by a 'C" shaped Retaining ring inside the lower distributor opening. Pull On it very Hard and it will come out ,then install it on the new one- Retaining 'C" ring up inside, not on the bottom. It should have a Groove inside the distributor for it to lock in place like the Original one. Mine from Auto zone did not. I'm taking the chance that's there's enough friction to keep on while i install the distributor. If it falls into the Oil Pump I might be able to retrieve it with a Stick Magnet tool. If it falls in the Oil Pan i'll have to take it off and get it out. Rebuild the Original if you can. There's good videos on doing that the practicle ,"do it your self" methods with only a few tools. Do Not start the Motor without that shaft in. It will be starved of oil and burn up.
great videos I have a 95 ford van inline 6 -has close to a half a million miles on it I'm sure it's time to replace those gears--was a bit reluctant to do it from looking at the book --but your video makes it look easier--how many miles were on your 87 when the gear went out???
+Junior Hardy Hello, Mine had 150 some thousand and was probably taken well care of until maybe the last ten years. I believe it was just used as a work truck will little oil changes if any. Fiber gears do not like dirty oil. In addition the gear probably had lots of stress pulling a heavily loaded trailer full of tree trunks up some very long steep grade hills... all the while trying to maintain a 60 mph plus speed. As you know, the I6 was the workhorse for Ford for many years and was replaced by the diesel. Thanks for the comment!
Yep, that is a noisy power steering pump. I replaced it later on, made sure there was no air in the line, but it still seems very noisy compared to my 1977 F250 that uses a different style pump. I believe it is the nature of the beast so I am leaving it alone for now. Thanks for the comment!
So if I jump my 1990 Ford F-150 from the battery to the solenoid, & it starts, does that tell me it's the ignition control module or distributor? Thanks in advance
Mine was the clutch pedal safety switch out of adjustment. It could be the solenoid, reverse safety switch(automatic), or the ignition switch start position. By it running it tells me the distributor and module are ok. It is the start circuit that you want to check out, not the run circuit. If you have a test light or meter, have someone turn the key to start while you are checking for voltage at the solenoid(remove the little wires, I believe the red one) like they are trying to start the truck. If you get a light or voltage then everything from the key switch is working and you probably have a bad solenoid.
Pull out the Spout and see if it starts then. The spout by-passes the ECM- computer. Replace ECM after checking coil and distributor pick up. Average life of the Capcitors in the ECM is 15 years. Having the Spout out will cause the Transmission to shift bad the Motor to not be efficient. Gotta have the spout in.
i have a 240 inline 6 in my 72 f100.once I get dist how do I get the rotor botton pointing the right direction and does the botton need to be pointing to the #1 cylinder?
Hello Gabe, You need to bring the #1 cylinder up on its compression stroke (like in the video). Then align the crankshaft timing mark to the 0 mark on the tab (shown in video). Then find the #1 plug wire on your cap and make a line from the #1 cap to the distributor with a marker. You then put the rotor back on and install the distributor back into the block making sure the oil shaft rod from the distributor fits in the oil pump shaft hole. The distributor gear will mesh with the cam at the same time. This can be a trial and error time as explained in the video. Sometimes you have to put the distributor in with the rotor pointing away from the #1 mark on the distributor because as the distributor goes in it turns when it meets the cam gear. Once you get it in and it drops into place you can turn the distributor a bit so the mark will line up with the rotor. Watch the video again and you can see that I had to pull it out a few times so as to get it to drop into place and properly line up. Hope this helps you get on the right track. Thanks for the comment!
Hi Sr thanks for your help this is the first video I watch from you and I really enjoyed...I have a situation hope you can help...I have a 82 f150 300 motor 6 in line and runs rough on idle but running feels good and strong...spark plugs,cables,rotor and distributor cap are new timing feels good so I don't know what to check now if you can help I appreciate your help
Rough idle can be caused by a vacuum leak, or a carb needing an overhaul. I believe 82 was still a carb engine... if not then you may have a weak injector. Look for vacuum leaks first. Spray some carb cleaner down the carb intake while you are running it up by hand. This may clean a clogged air passage. Additionally, I know you said the plugs were new, but sometimes(very rare)you get a bad one. Then remove one plug wire at a time while the engine is running(be careful so you will not get a shock)this will give you an idea if their is any plug or wire issues going on with the idle.
Cars Trucks And Detours thanks for your answer and help I will do check the carb...I check the cables pulling one at the time and it's a really small change except for the piston number one it's the only one that I get a big difference...I put a piece a paper on the pipe and makes big noise i heard that's a valve problem it's that possible?...but anyway I will do what you said first
@@JoseRodriguez-nl7no If you do a compression check on each cylinder, a leaking valve will show up as lower compression on that cylinder, and it may just be lifter holding it open as well if that is the problem. It really sounds to me like you have a vacuum leak. Check out this link for a good how to on vacuum leaks...th-cam.com/video/9CPqbaSgcok/w-d-xo.html
Cars Trucks And Detours I did check for a vacuum leak just like on that video and I didn't notice any change and I did the carb cleaner and nothing change I will do the compression check I hope I have better luck...I will do the carb kit you have a video how to tune it?
Cars Trucks And Detours I put the distributor and I put the cable for pistón number one and the truck don't start and I move the cables back before the mark on the cap and then starts but makes explosions...how can I fix that?
Jeffery, Ok here is what I would do. Yes #1 is on passenger side front of engine. Distributor rotates CCW. Now, forget looking at the damper pulley timing mark and in my video I show how to bring to TDC #1 cylinder. Do this. Rotate the crank around until it blows the wet paper towel piece out of the hole. Then get a long thin screwdriver, put it in the spark plug hole, and very slowly, very slowly turn the crank pulley and watch the screwdriver move up. When it just starts to move down then turn the crank pulley back very slowly to push that screwdriver back up a little bit. Do not get the screwdriver stuck in the hole. You will now be at top dead center. Look down at the crank pulley and sand paper it or whatever, there should be a faint thin line showing somewhere there next to the timing tab. Look very carefully. It has to be there. Ok that said, even if you do not see a mark, the engine is at TDC because you had compression on that #1. Now drop the distributor in with the rotor pointing to #1 position...use the cap to draw a line on the distributor. Now, all bets are off, if the timing chain has slipped because the cam gear and crank gear have dots that need to be aligned when #1 is at TDC and the timing chain is engaged in both sprockets. So, you may have to pull the crank pulley and front timing chain cover and do the procedure in the first paragraph to see if they are aligned. Also, a broken cam shaft would cause the same issue. That is what I would do if I was Sure that I was on my timing mark and it was not lining up. Hope this gets you on the right track.
I have a 89 f150 4x4 302 motor when i was coming out with the distributor the rod on the oil pump was hung onthe shaft . anyway it fell out in the crsnkcase any w ay to get it out without tearing it down .help
OMG, that happened to me once and I was lucky that the rod tip was standing straight up so I was able to grab it with a small magnet. I really do not remember what engine I was working on at the time. Sorry I was so late to respond, but I just found a passel full of comments waiting for review.
Hi Tim, If I was in your position I would change the Ignition Module as it makes the spark for the cylinders. I am assuming that won't crank means not turn over? If so, then the starter or the cable going to the starter may need to be replaced. Check to make sure all the starter electrical connections are tight. Also, if you jump across the solenoid and the engine turns over then it may be a bad solenoid or key switch. I have had issues with some Ford Key Switches (ignition switch) in the past where they caused the problem exactly like the one you are experiencing. SO, on SECOND THOUGHT look to the key switch first! You might need someone to turn the switch on and to start position while you check for voltage at the solenoid with either a test light or an ohmmeter. Have them jiggle the switch to see if the power is intermittent. If so then there is you problem. Hope this helps! Thanks for the comment!
@@Luke-oe5qi I believe you would need a Dura Spark II distributor with a vacuum advance and of course some different wiring. I have never done this...however here are a couple of links for you that may help...fordsix.com//viewtopic.php?f=2&t=63890 fordsix.com//viewtopic.php?f=2&t=63890 th-cam.com/video/fvDLUTGFO_M/w-d-xo.html
you music is too loud for me to understand you. you said the position of the distributor is like "this" for 87 and beyond but it also sounds like you said "like this" for 86 and beyond.. I've played the video severy times and just can't make out what you're saying. Wonderful video though thank you
Sorry about the music. The position of the distributor is such as to catch the fan breeze for cooling. In my opinion, it really does not matter as Ford recognized the cooling issue and moved the distributor module to the left fender in the newer models. What counts is the #1 wire position lining up with the top dead center of #1 piston on the compression stroke. Thanks!
@@SteveAZ711 Thank you for clearing that up. My truck started losing power and slowly got worse and worse until it wouldnt run. I thought it was the cats, replaced them for $1k (thanks CA) but made no diff, tried everything I could think of fuel, spark, exhaust, gave up and towed it to a mechanic, he said my engine was toast and needed another one. I didn't buy it and towed it back home, after everyone including the mech told me it can't be the distributor, I noticed a lot of play in the rotor, pulled the distributor out and the pin that holds the cam gear in place was sheared off so the gear started turning and well, here I am. I needed to know how to find TDC and you told me. Thanks a million sir!
Desconecte el conector SPOUT y con su luz de sincronización ajuste el motor a 10 grados. btdc mientras se está ejecutando ... luego vuelva a conectar la conexión del surtidor y deje que la computadora se haga cargo.
Todos los motores de distribuidor de 8,6,4 cilindros siguen el mismo procedimiento ... Cilindro muerto superior en el n. ° 1 y rotor del distribuidor apuntando al cilindro n. ° 1 en la tapa. 8,6,4 cylinder distributor engines all follow the same procedure...Top Dead Cylinder on #1 and distributor rotor pointing to #1 cylinder on the cap.
Well, I am not sure. I would check to make sure my distributor hold down clamp was tight. I would also look for any vacuum hose leaks. It may be that the fiber cam gear may need replacing. I would also run a code check on the engine and I would make sure I had a new cap and rotor on the distributor. Thanks for the comment!
Raunel I have the same problem and I believe that the cam gear is missing a tooth. It will go from hyper advanced to overly retarded and back. I have been able to get it to start by adjusting the spark timing (rotating distributor) but the valves still sound wrong.
Hola buenas tardes este tengo un problema en mi camioneta es una for igual q la des video este no en siende me manda muy poca corriente alas bujias que podria aser por favor gracias
@@SteveAZ711 :)...I'll tell you when it's hard...When it's 90, humid and you had a bitch seating the distributor back in on my 93 f150...:)...Like I did yesterday...Dropped it (the clip) into the crossmember...Doing it on asphalt in the sun...WEEEEEEEEEEEE...And of course; IT DIDN'T FIX THE PROBLEM!....Once we found it; you're right; "piece of cake...I did it like you did- one handed, went right in...
Hello, Well if I was experiencing a no compression problem I would first expect a stuck or extremely out of adjustment valve or lifter (either exhaust or intake). I would take the side cover plate off on the block behind the distributor where I could see the push rods. If it is easier to take the rocker (aka valve cover ) off then I would do that. Then I would rotate the engine over (by hand from the crank pulley) and watch the action of the valves on the #1 piston position. If either of the valves (exhaust or intake) is not moving up and down, then it may be stuck open, or held open by a bad lifter that may also be stuck and not making contact with the cam. Now, if both rockers are moving up and down and the valves are opening and closing then I would loosen the adjusting nuts on the rockers a bit to make sure the valves have a chance to be fully closed ( this would make the rockers loose and give a very clacky noise if the engine were running). Now do a compression check. If you know the valves are closed because you backed off the the rocker nuts enough and still have no compression, then take a small block of wood and a hammer and tap on the valve stem. The idea is to see if the valve is moving down and then back up. Do this on both valves ( you may have to loosen the rockers up enough and set them off the the side of the valve stem spring to actually notice and feel the valve moving. This procedure may free up a stuck valve. Be sure to tap on the valve stem and not the spring itself as you do not want to have the spring-stem valve keepers to come loose and have the valve spring come loose and drop the valve down into the cylinder.. If all this fails to get you some sort of compression then it is possible to have a seriously burnt valve or some sort of piston or piston ring failure that is letting the compressed air escape out of the cylinder. I am assuming that your cam gear and cam are in good shape and not missing any teeth. If your push rods (and I mean all of them) are not moving then your cam gear is most liked striped of its teeth. It is my hope that you find a stuck lifter that is holding the valve open.
I don't remember my grandpa, I was too young when he passed. This gentleman seems like he is one hell of a grandpa!
All other videos showing how to adjust timing need to be removed and this one be pinned to the top! Thank you sir!!!
I have been turning wrenches a long time and that’s the first time I ever heard of paper towel trick. Outstanding thank you
Thanks! I think it was something I read many years ago. Kinda fun!
@@SteveAZ711 tried it the other night worked like a charm. Stay safe out there
Your video is the last one I looked at. And the wet paper towel trick showed me more than all the other ones. Thank you sir.
Thanks, It kinda makes things fun and functional at the same time.
Your video has saved two f250 trucks from the scrap yard the late 80s to mid 90s trucks are built like tanks! Many thanks.
"Built Ford Tough"
This series also got my 86 F150 back on the road as my first truck! Thanks a ton!!
@@SteveAZ711I have similar problem on my 95 f150
After watching three separate videos about setting timing with a light and moving the distributor. yours is the first that doesn't have vertigo inducing camera shots, little to no description about the process and proper lighting to show what and where the work is to be preformed. a big thanks to someone who cares about actually informing those of us who are genuinely interested in keeping our trucks running and out of the hands of mechanics and dealerships alike. albeit that your video isn't exclusively about setting timing it still has way better content than the more specific videos here on YT. Two thumbs up sir!
Hey I just wanted to say you seem like a old fella you has been around awhile and I just wanted to say thank you for sharing your knowledge with the rest of us.
My dad saw your video and it was very helpful thanks from sanluis pótosi méxico 👍👍
I just adore you..thank you so much...just from how your explaining step by step you are a very honest guy..""mechanic"". And thats a rare thing ..god bless you...thank you for sharing your video
Thanks for making this video! Really helped me set the timing on my dad's '87. The last guy set it to top dead center for some reason! It runs a whole lot better at twelve degrees than zero.
If you didnt crank or move your engine,theres no need to point the rotor to number one sparkplug or turn the crank pulley to get the piston at TDC. Just mark your distributor cap and rotor as well as the body or base of the distributor to block. Then when all is marked pull out the distributor, then put it back the same way and then time it.
Thanks Jerry. This is true on a running and timed engine and good advice. On my video the engine had blown the timing gear it is a guess as to where the timing stopped at. Also, the person I bought it from had someone working on it (trying to get it running) and I am sure it was rotated quite a bit. Your point is well taken and good advice for working around distributor timed engines.
Thank you SO MUCH. The other vids I have seen show NOTHING that clarifies Like this one does. Been fighting with My 87 F150 302 EFI for Months, frustrating myself and my over the phone helper. Easy to see what's UP With YOUR GREAT Video. Tired of hearing talk, NEEDED to SEE...
Thank you very much, this is the best demonstration ever.
Glad it was helpful!
Another good way for a compression stroke is use a tube with a little balloon or rubber glove finger taped around the tube it fills with air there you go
Thanks! That would make for a exciting visual check for sure!
Well, I gotta tell you. I don't care if Henry Ford came back to life and said this would work on a 96 or not, it doesn't. Good video, it clearly works for some.
Yes it does!
I’m with you man, my 88 is irritating me so bad.
I install distributor just like this, put a timing light on it and it runs best at 30 degrees btdc. It’s supposed to be 10. Still runs like garbage!! Beyond frustrated
@@marcusaddis5502 That truck was a "Z" model. California emissions, special parts throughout it. Literally a 1% truck. As in only 1% of the entire line was like it. Ended up selling it for twice its worth. Now I have way more free time to do things like work for a living. No time for Fords anymore. My GM is flawless.
Thank you, I’m certain this works with 93F-150 in-line 6 as well
Question ❓ does the 1994 f150 4.9L has a crank shaft sensor or Not? Or just the distributor cap.
It is a hall-effect sensor inside the distributor cap. In 1996 the i6 used an external CPS.
I used this video for a Mercury Topaz, worked flawlessly!!! Subscribed
Thanks ZoneB. Thanks for pointing out that this procedure can be used for many makes of older vehicles!
Great info
Thanks. Happy to have helped!
Steve.- I have an 1988 ford Ranger 2.3 L, with 610,000 Miles on. It runs wonderful. I am changing the Distributor at the end of the month. (I know that the shaft and the gear are worn out) I liked your video very much. Thanks.
Wow, that is a bunch of miles. You have maintained it very well! Glad you liked the video. Thanks for the comment as well!
lord have mercy
awesome video. I like the relaxed and easy sound of the country music and the birds chirping in the background. I'm pretty sure I heard a peacock or guinea fowl. either way, awesome vid. keep up the good work!
Wonderful video sir. Extremely helpful.
Thankyou so much for making this well made video it helped me alot
awesome video. I like the relaxed and easy sound of the country music and the birds chirping in the background. I'm pretty sure I heard a peacock or guinea fowl. eith
+BTVRN73 It was a Guinnea Fowl times 3...
I’m really hoping you’ll see this soon.
I’m trying to get to TDC on my 86’ f150. I tried the paper towel trick and I’m not 100% sure I had it stuffed in enough, and I turned the motor all the way around, counter clockwise til it got back to my number dial. Do I have to try cranking it again or would it be safe to assume it hit the compression cycle? Would it hurt to try again?
I am thinking you should be turning it clockwise. If you can stick a soda straw in the spark plug hole and it hits the piston at the top after you have stopped rolling it around, and the Timing Mark is lined up with the Zero on the engine tab, then you should be at top dead center. Do not lose the straw into the spark plug hole. A long very thin screwdriver will work as well. Hope this helps. Thanks!
Hi I have a couple of questions.
On the left hand side of the harmonic balancer is where you set TDC and the right side are some marks on a cover of some sort. My question is do you time the engine to the marks on the side you lined up TDC ?
Yes. Ford used the other marks for earlier 6 cyl engines. That is what I heard.
@@SteveAZ711 thanks for the help.
Timed and running well.
Thank you so much I watched this video fifty times and figured my truck out. I have never done anything like this and you made it happen. I caught my carb on fire. I think it was my timing . I was breaking in my new cam and had to keep it running. I still had the timing set to zero. If I put a new carb on should I set the timing to ten degrees bdc with a timing light, or could I just set it to ten on the scale. I left the spout plugged in when it was on zero. My hayes manual is vague. This is the best video I have found on here thanks again.
p.s. I love the music I don't care what that guy said
Hey Paul thanks for the nice comment! I always disconnect my spout and then set the timing. If there is a sticker with the specs (timing etc) use the setting they recommend. And, I always use a timing light when setting timing. With that carb fire it sounded like your timing was a bit off. That is a good reason to always have an air cleaner on the carb...in case it pops back...no air no flames. Be prepared for something like that. A good fire extinguisher is nice to have handy as well. It has happened to me on several occasions as well. Be safe! Thanks SteveAZ711
Thanks for the refresher, its been awhile and your video, was spot on. Have a great day...
+Larry Rush You're Welcome...enjoyed making the video as well.
Verry helpful thanks!
thank you so much for this
You're very welcome!
Hi! This video is super helpful. Although I have a problem, what if I am on the compression stroke on the number one spark plug at tdc, But 0 degrees is still far away from the correct timing mark.. any ideas??
Timing chain has slipped or the gear is stripped...
Make sure you are on compression stroke and not on exhaust stroke. Both instances will have the piston in the top position. Compression stroke will push your finger out of the #1 spark plug hole if the gear or chain is ok then
TDC will line up on 0. Also make sure your are reading the correct mark on the crankshaft pulley. It is a very faint line on mine. I marked it better with some chalk.
Yes you probably going to be breaking the front down for a new timing kit. Depending on the mileage and the previous maintenance schedule that has been run on the vehicle you might want to think about head gasket as well.
Excellent, thank you very much!
+Ray Sarchet You're very welcome. Thanks for the comment!
Thanks, that was informative. Doing a head job on a 1995 E250, van, 4.9 liter, 300, auto and have a question for you if you might know and care to answer. Ford makes this confusing and a Haynes manual is no help. You are using the notched scale on the left side of the harmonic balancer. What are the ones to the right on the timing cover for ?? One just above the balancer and then again, upward right with a "TDC" on it ?? Would just like to know what that's for other than to confuse.
Ok this is my uneducated guess...Ford started this i6 (262 cu in.)engine in the 1960's. The 4.9l i6 came along in 1965. I believe the marks you are referring to are left overs from previous casting stocks. It is possible that in order to save retooling costs they just used previous castings( that fit perfectly.) However, that is just a guess and maybe Ford really only knows. Good question as they are so confusing.
Thank you sir for your guess. If I happen to find out I'll pass it on to you. Have a good one.
@@SteveAZ711 I thank you for your great video on this topic. I just installed a CSG-649 version of this engine (from an Onan Generator) into my 84 F150. The timing marks on the cast gear cover are for the old style vibration dampers, which have their marks in the correct position, so the timing marks to use depend on the harmonic balancer pulley in use. I can tell you this without any doubt. Again thanks, as your video helped me see how things *should* go in my truck- which was a basket case.
Thank you 👍
You are welcome
Hey BTVRN73 thanks! I gotta tell ya those Guinnea Fowl can be a nuisance at times...especially when I am trying to concentrate on some tough problem. Thanks for the comment and Thanks for watching!
Cars Trucks And Detours hello I have a 1980 f-150 4.9 6 inline and I need to adjust the lifters or valves you have a video or can you give me your advice please...Thank you
cool video best one on distributor for newbies and im sure mechanics can benefit from this . why did u say u werent pleased with the very fast idle at start ....isnt it normal for it to idle high at first then it idles back down on its own.
Yes it seems to be the norm for it. The computer makes the decision according input and the idle does come back down fairly quickly as it warms up. I guess I was expecting something less than 2000 rpms at first. Also, I disconnected the clutch pedal safely start switch ( did not grow up with those and always made sure trans was in neutral), so if I made a mistake and started it in gear...2000 rpms was going to make it leap pretty good. I always put the clutch pedal in anyway as to take the load off the engine in a cold start situation anyway. Thanks for the comment...thumbs up!
Love your video , I have a 1985 ford 150 I just bought cause it not run , they put many parts from new carb , spark plug wires , and more . If you not said when you were putting the distributor in, ~ the distributor cap holes on down from your 87 is to be across . My distributor is line up as your pickup ! I thinking they put the distributor in for 87 ford specs . When I have time will start from beginning of your video to end . Mine dose not have a computer to keep it in right time . I know you know what I mean as my pickup is 85 . - will have to put a timing light on if this is the problem . Just know it did run and back fire and a 20 mile trip died in my drive way ! Will not fire now where ever I move the distributor to - where be for it half ass run all most any where move to . By the way why I got a the pickup all most free is cause it was not starting like yours . I took the safety clutch control off clutch rod and wire the 2 wires straight across . Just got to make sure the clutch is in or not in gear starting . But as of now that part will be my new safety part next if I find why my engine not hardly firing now .
I loved this video. Thank you so much, only one I have found that's worth watching! Haha. I am confused on the position of the distributor bolts, I have an 89 f150 inline six but if I have the distributor in the position that you have it on yours, the wiring is kinked because it doesn't wanna travel that far...it's like it should be in the position you mentioned about an "86 and beyond that" however it is an 89... I'm stuck, it's a project truck and was 180 out but still ran, now I'm back where I started with the distributor in the position in the video, it doesn't want to start. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks Robert
Afternoon sir question that i have is i follow the same step you have shown in this video and i really apriciates it has help alot, my question is its starting to back fire trew the intake alot of sputtering i.have check the wires any clue what might be thanks im having no luck thanks
Check the firing order( wires on proper plugs?) Sounds like the timing is off. Go through the whole procedure for the top dead center on #1 compression stroke, and then take your distributor cap off and see where the rotor is pointing. It should be pointing to #1 plug wire.
Thank you sir this is a great help.
Buena información muy bien explicado
Gracias. Son muy bienvenidos!
That is the smallest scratch of a timing mark on the harmonic balancer!!! I had to polish the entire pully to finally see a glint of a mark. I then painted the spot and when that dried was able to mark a visible line. Miles of cussing later.
Yeah, I am sure glad Ford was not trying to hide it! LOL
Question: You did not turn the distributor to time it, correct?
This is the distributor install for the initial timing. Final timing is done with a timing light. Disconnect the Spout connector and set the timing according to the Vehicle Emissions label located somewhere in the engine bay. Thanks!
@@SteveAZ711do you have any video using the light and how I can identify the spout conector?
Good evening friend, can a 4-pin Chevrolet module be adapted to that type of dealer? Thanks and regards from Venezuela
Like you I noticed the similarity of the Chevy module to this Ford. I had an 80"s Malibu that a module went out on me some 35 years ago. I never tried doing a swap, but I think I would give it a try if that is all I had. If you knew the voltages and could match the pins with the connector in the right places, then it may work. I just don't know, but it sure is an interesting idea Pedro.
Idle sounds really high in this video at least.
This truck always idles high until it warms up. The computer controls the idle. Idle for mine settles in around 850rpm.
@@SteveAZ711I i take my 95f150 4.9 to a mechanic shop die on me so they put a new distributor but now idle low and some times die I wonder if I Ned to adjust that distributor
Get the oil pump primer shaft from Autozone to prime the oil pump and line-up the distributor to the oil pump shaft.
I have an 81 f150 with a 300. I am very confused by all of this and was looking for some clarification. You had the engine timing set at TDC when you put the distributor in and then said something about letting the computer take it from there. Is that really all that needs to be done? I was under the impression that it needs to be somewhere around 10 degrees BTDC. Also when you say the computer, what are you referring to? The ignition module box? My engine is currently totally out of whack and it just pops and almost backfires when I try cranking it. I’m trying to get my timing back into place to fix this and am just really stumped here. Is this process different for a carbed engine? Please help me I’m very puzzled, thanks.
My year engine has a SPOUT(spark output) connection from the distributor to the computer. I disconnect that, then I manually set the timing at 10 degrees while the engine is running, shut it off, tighten the distributor clamp, and then I reconnect the SPOUT connection and the computer adjusts the timing etc. for different conditions. It sounds like your engine timing is not correct. MAKE SURE you are using the correct timing mark on your balancer pulley! Also, pull the #1 plug and bring the cylinder up to TDC, then remove your distributor cap... and if your timing is correct...the rotor will be pointing to the #1 terminal on the cap. If not, you are not timed correctly.
Cars Trucks And Detours haha. Turns out the gear on my distributor shaft sheared off. No wonder I had timing issues😂. I appreciate the time you took to write a thought out reply, it shows that you really care about your viewers. I will be using this video to get the timing straight with my new distributor.
1994 Ford F150
4.9L 300 Straight 6
Timing Mark's and Distributor the same. But my distributor looks different from the book. This one I got doesn't have a module like yours. So does the timing have a different set up for 94 Ford F150 300-6
Check the left side fender. The module was moved (not sure what year) to the fender for better heat dissipation. Look to the right of the steering column on the fender. It will look much different than the one in my video.
@@SteveAZ711 i checked that one, but those are $250
Look around where the hood hinge attaches, it may have cooling fins on it. I believe what you found previous post was the ECM(computer), and yeah, they are pricey. You want the distributor ignition module.
@@SteveAZ711 ok will try that but if that doesn't work I'll double check the timing. But it should start even of the timing is off but it will run rough idle.. but I got the timing correct from this 94 300-6 (just realized I have no spark what so ever) so it could be the ICM (on fender)
@@trevlouie I have a No Spark going on with my 94 E-250 4.9 that has 309,000 miles. Owned it for 20 years now. Was an old sears service to your home truck out of Mountain Home, Ar. Third motor. Found this one on Facebook Marketplace for $200 with 74,000 miles, one owner. After 9,000 miles on it and it running good it decided to do a no spark. Won't start unless i take out the Spout Plug. So when you do that, its bypassing the ECM( computer), so you can get home, without the ECM. I heard that advice from Scanner Danners video's , Best guy for wiring problems and diagnosis. I thought it was the coil and the pickup in the distributor so i replaced the whole distributor and the ICM and coil. Still no spark, unless i take out the spout. So, now i have a remanufacture ,in Mexico, ECM sitting right here and plan on installing it soon. Autozone cost was $164 plus core $44. The ICM they sold me was bad ,out the box, so I put the old one back on and found out it still works. I should of bought motorcraft, not duralast. Their new distributor does not have a cut out or groove inside the shaft for (oil pump shaft) the 'C" ring retaining clip, to seat in. It will not lock on tight, like the original. It has some friction though. I just hope it doesn't fall back into the oil pump or the oil pan , now, during installation or later down the road. Maybe I should of rebuilt the old one. Saving it for later along with the ECM- Original Computer. Now if i could just get the distributor in right. Thats where this mans video come in. Thanks.
Whats the reason for timing gear replacement? My truck has ran ok since i got it ive put 3500 miles on it, and running rough, blowing white smoke at startup and smells to run rich
In addition, I will check my timing and try running a high octane fuel and see if this aids in spark knock elimination.
Wait what was that scale on the engine when you were showing the notch in the beginning looked like it said TDC
informative video,.thanks. no need for the music however, especially when we are trying to hear what your saying
Thanks and yep I had a talk with the editing guy and he said he will try to do better. I think he is getting better in some of the newer videos.Thanks for the comment! Remember to click that notification bell if you haven't already done so.
Did you rotate your motor back to 10 degrees TDC after installing the distributor? Or does your vehicle call for it being at 0 degrees? Thanks for any info.
I installed the distributor at 0 degrees. Then with the spout connector disconnected I started the engine and set the timing at 10 degrees Btdc, shut the engine off and then I reconnected the spout connection and let the computer handle the timing.
@@SteveAZ711 thank you so much for the reply. Is a timing light needed? I am currently doing this. I set the timing mark at 10 degrees btdc then put the distributor in. Is that okay or should i start over?
thanks for the videos it helped alot we just got finished with fixing my dads.
thank you for your videos...i was hoping you could tell me how to prime my oil pump?...ive heard id have to pull my distributor but i dont want to mess with that and the timing please let me know thank you
Hello, What I have done in the past to get my oil pressure started is to remove the coil wire from the DISTRIBUTOR and the COIL (so as not to have a spark flying around the engine bay). I then turn the engine over just like I was trying to start it. I Do this in short bursts so as not to hold the starter to the point of overheating. I generally see something on my gauge after a few tries. Thanks for the Comment!
alrighty ill try that...thanks
someone told me that you cant just pull the distributor out because the oil pump is connected to it and you might drop something where you cant retrieve it. Whats that all about? I just want to remove and replace.
The distributor just slips over a hexagon shaft coming out of the oil pump.
The Oil Shaft rod, hexagon shaped, is inserted into the bottom of the distributor shaft and held there by a 'C" shaped Retaining ring inside the lower distributor opening. Pull On it very Hard and it will come out ,then install it on the new one- Retaining 'C" ring up inside, not on the bottom. It should have a Groove inside the distributor for it to lock in place like the Original one. Mine from Auto zone did not. I'm taking the chance that's there's enough friction to keep on while i install the distributor. If it falls into the Oil Pump I might be able to retrieve it with a Stick Magnet tool. If it falls in the Oil Pan i'll have to take it off and get it out. Rebuild the Original if you can. There's good videos on doing that the practicle ,"do it your self" methods with only a few tools. Do Not start the Motor without that shaft in. It will be starved of oil and burn up.
great videos I have a 95 ford van inline 6 -has close to a half a million miles on it I'm sure it's time to replace those gears--was a bit reluctant to do it from looking at the book --but your video makes it look easier--how many miles were on your 87 when the gear went out???
+Junior Hardy Hello, Mine had 150 some thousand and was probably taken well care of until maybe the last ten years. I believe it was just used as a work truck will little oil changes if any. Fiber gears do not like dirty oil. In addition the gear probably had lots of stress pulling a heavily loaded trailer full of tree trunks up some very long steep grade hills... all the while trying to maintain a 60 mph plus speed. As you know, the I6 was the workhorse for Ford for many years and was replaced by the diesel. Thanks for the comment!
great video Steve thanks
i am gonna replace it but try doing it without taking the whole bracket off. that looks like a pain.
is that a power steering pump noise ? mine is doing the same sound. thanks gor the video
Yep, that is a noisy power steering pump. I replaced it later on, made sure there was no air in the line, but it still seems very noisy compared to my 1977 F250 that uses a different style pump. I believe it is the nature of the beast so I am leaving it alone for now. Thanks for the comment!
So if I jump my 1990 Ford F-150 from the battery to the solenoid, & it starts, does that tell me it's the ignition control module or distributor?
Thanks in advance
Mine was the clutch pedal safety switch out of adjustment. It could be the solenoid, reverse safety switch(automatic), or the ignition switch start position. By it running it tells me the distributor and module are ok. It is the start circuit that you want to check out, not the run circuit. If you have a test light or meter, have someone turn the key to start while you are checking for voltage at the solenoid(remove the little wires, I believe the red one) like they are trying to start the truck. If you get a light or voltage then everything from the key switch is working and you probably have a bad solenoid.
@@SteveAZ711 Thank you!
What type of bolt head is on the hold down I can’t find one to fit mine it’s the same as urs in the video
I believe it is a 9/16 or 1/2. Try a crows foot. Here is a link to some distributor wrenches that may work.
amzn.to/3kM41a3
Does this have a SPOUTS connector that you have to remove or short to set the timing?
Yes .... go to 10:42 in the video.
So what if I turn my truck on and it turns off? It starts up good but turns off and I don’t know what to do
Crank it check for spark. I had an ignition module go bad that caused a similar issue.
@@SteveAZ711 I changed the whole distributor out lol
Pull out the Spout and see if it starts then. The spout by-passes the ECM- computer. Replace ECM after checking coil and distributor pick up. Average life of the Capcitors in the ECM is 15 years. Having the Spout out will cause the Transmission to shift bad the Motor to not be efficient. Gotta have the spout in.
i have a 240 inline 6 in my 72 f100.once I get dist how do I get the rotor botton pointing the right direction and does the botton need to be pointing to the #1 cylinder?
Hello Gabe, You need to bring the #1 cylinder up on its compression stroke (like in the video). Then align the crankshaft timing mark to the 0 mark on the tab (shown in video). Then find the #1 plug wire on your cap and make a line from the #1 cap to the distributor with a marker. You then put the rotor back on and install the distributor back into the block making sure the oil shaft rod from the distributor fits in the oil pump shaft hole. The distributor gear will mesh with the cam at the same time. This can be a trial and error time as explained in the video. Sometimes you have to put the distributor in with the rotor pointing away from the #1 mark on the distributor because as the distributor goes in it turns when it meets the cam gear. Once you get it in and it drops into place you can turn the distributor a bit so the mark will line up with the rotor. Watch the video again and you can see that I had to pull it out a few times so as to get it to drop into place and properly line up. Hope this helps you get on the right track. Thanks for the comment!
Hi Sr thanks for your help this is the first video I watch from you and I really enjoyed...I have a situation hope you can help...I have a 82 f150 300 motor 6 in line and runs rough on idle but running feels good and strong...spark plugs,cables,rotor and distributor cap are new timing feels good so I don't know what to check now if you can help I appreciate your help
Rough idle can be caused by a vacuum leak, or a carb needing an overhaul. I believe 82 was still a carb engine... if not then you may have a weak injector. Look for vacuum leaks first. Spray some carb cleaner down the carb intake while you are running it up by hand. This may clean a clogged air passage. Additionally, I know you said the plugs were new, but sometimes(very rare)you get a bad one. Then remove one plug wire at a time while the engine is running(be careful so you will not get a shock)this will give you an idea if their is any plug or wire issues going on with the idle.
Cars Trucks And Detours thanks for your answer and help I will do check the carb...I check the cables pulling one at the time and it's a really small change except for the piston number one it's the only one that I get a big difference...I put a piece a paper on the pipe and makes big noise i heard that's a valve problem it's that possible?...but anyway I will do what you said first
@@JoseRodriguez-nl7no If you do a compression check on each cylinder, a leaking valve will show up as lower compression on that cylinder, and it may just be lifter holding it open as well if that is the problem. It really sounds to me like you have a vacuum leak. Check out this link for a good how to on vacuum leaks...th-cam.com/video/9CPqbaSgcok/w-d-xo.html
Cars Trucks And Detours I did check for a vacuum leak just like on that video and I didn't notice any change and I did the carb cleaner and nothing change I will do the compression check I hope I have better luck...I will do the carb kit you have a video how to tune it?
Cars Trucks And Detours I put the distributor and I put the cable for pistón number one and the truck don't start and I move the cables back before the mark on the cap and then starts but makes explosions...how can I fix that?
Great video. Thanks.
can some one please tell me y my 460 #1 cylender is on passager side but my tcd mark tells me its on the driver side
Jeffery, Ok here is what I would do. Yes #1 is on passenger side front of engine. Distributor rotates CCW. Now, forget looking at the damper pulley timing mark and in my video I show how to bring to TDC #1 cylinder. Do this. Rotate the crank around until it blows the wet paper towel piece out of the hole. Then get a long thin screwdriver, put it in the spark plug hole, and very slowly, very slowly turn the crank pulley and watch the screwdriver move up. When it just starts to move down then turn the crank pulley back very slowly to push that screwdriver back up a little bit. Do not get the screwdriver stuck in the hole. You will now be at top dead center. Look down at the crank pulley and sand paper it or whatever, there should be a faint thin line showing somewhere there next to the timing tab. Look very carefully. It has to be there. Ok that said, even if you do not see a mark, the engine is at TDC because you had compression on that #1. Now drop the distributor in with the rotor pointing to #1 position...use the cap to draw a line on the distributor.
Now, all bets are off, if the timing chain has slipped because the cam gear and crank gear have dots that need to be aligned when #1 is at TDC and the timing chain is engaged in both sprockets. So, you may have to pull the crank pulley and front timing chain cover and do the procedure in the first paragraph to see if they are aligned. Also, a broken cam shaft would cause the same issue. That is what I would do if I was Sure that I was on my timing mark and it was not lining up. Hope this gets you on the right track.
i have a 1993 and cant get the number one spot line up on my distributor when i have it the same way you had yours facing
Kody, I answered the older reply to this question. Hope it puts you on the right track.
No pase x alto buscar y mostrar la secuencia de posición de los pistones que está troquelada en el block. O en la cámara de esos motores
También se conoce como orden de disparo.
I have a 89 f150 4x4 302 motor when i was coming out with the distributor the rod on the oil pump was hung onthe shaft . anyway it fell out in the crsnkcase any w ay to get it out without tearing it down .help
OMG, that happened to me once and I was lucky that the rod tip was standing straight up so I was able to grab it with a small magnet. I really do not remember what engine I was working on at the time. Sorry I was so late to respond, but I just found a passel full of comments waiting for review.
I was going to say use a magnet also. The small pen ones?
what if you do all of that and the is no compression ?
This is a very helpful and well filmed video! Has anyone ever told you you sound like Newt Gingrich?
Nope. Thanks for the Comment!
my 89 stops running when it gets hot. it won't even crank for a half hour. any ideas!
4.9/ 6
Hi Tim, If I was in your position I would change the Ignition Module as it makes the spark for the cylinders. I am assuming that won't crank means not turn over? If so, then the starter or the cable going to the starter may need to be replaced. Check to make sure all the starter electrical connections are tight. Also, if you jump across the solenoid and the engine turns over then it may be a bad solenoid or key switch. I have had issues with some Ford Key Switches (ignition switch) in the past where they caused the problem exactly like the one you are experiencing. SO, on SECOND THOUGHT look to the key switch first! You might need someone to turn the switch on and to start position while you check for voltage at the solenoid with either a test light or an ohmmeter. Have them jiggle the switch to see if the power is intermittent. If so then there is you problem.
Hope this helps! Thanks for the comment!
The PIP sensor goes bad. Replace the distributor. It could also be the module.
Will this distributor work on a carb 300 6
Why would you want to change the distributor?
It's an efi 300 6 that I'm converting to a 4 barrel and I would like to know if I could use the efi distributor
@@Luke-oe5qi I believe you would need a Dura Spark II distributor with a vacuum advance and of course some different wiring. I have never done this...however here are a couple of links for you that may help...fordsix.com//viewtopic.php?f=2&t=63890
fordsix.com//viewtopic.php?f=2&t=63890
th-cam.com/video/fvDLUTGFO_M/w-d-xo.html
What tfi is the best
O'Reilly or AutoZone has replacements. I believe the one in this video is a Duralast.
subscribed
you music is too loud for me to understand you. you said the position of the distributor is like "this" for 87 and beyond but it also sounds like you said "like this" for 86 and beyond.. I've played the video severy times and just can't make out what you're saying. Wonderful video though thank you
Sorry about the music. The position of the distributor is such as to catch the fan breeze for cooling. In my opinion, it really does not matter as Ford recognized the cooling issue and moved the distributor module to the left fender in the newer models. What counts is the #1 wire position lining up with the top dead center of #1 piston on the compression stroke. Thanks!
@@SteveAZ711 Thank you for clearing that up. My truck started losing power and slowly got worse and worse until it wouldnt run. I thought it was the cats, replaced them for $1k (thanks CA) but made no diff, tried everything I could think of fuel, spark, exhaust, gave up and towed it to a mechanic, he said my engine was toast and needed another one. I didn't buy it and towed it back home, after everyone including the mech told me it can't be the distributor, I noticed a lot of play in the rotor, pulled the distributor out and the pin that holds the cam gear in place was sheared off so the gear started turning and well, here I am. I needed to know how to find TDC and you told me. Thanks a million sir!
cuantos grado debe llevar ese motor con lampara de tiempo
Desconecte el conector SPOUT y con su luz de sincronización ajuste el motor a 10 grados. btdc mientras se está ejecutando ... luego vuelva a conectar la conexión del surtidor y deje que la computadora se haga cargo.
Thank you.
Hola amigos como pruebo mi distribuidor de ford 302 carburada 8c
Todos los motores de distribuidor de 8,6,4 cilindros siguen el mismo procedimiento ... Cilindro muerto superior en el n. ° 1 y rotor del distribuidor apuntando al cilindro n. ° 1 en la tapa.
8,6,4 cylinder distributor engines all follow the same procedure...Top Dead Cylinder on #1 and distributor rotor pointing to #1 cylinder on the cap.
what's the problem when the timing is jumping in a ford f100. motor 300
Well, I am not sure. I would check to make sure my distributor hold down clamp was tight. I would also look for any vacuum hose leaks. It may be that the fiber cam gear may need replacing. I would also run a code check on the engine and I would make sure I had a new cap and rotor on the distributor. Thanks for the comment!
The module can be bad. A bad plug or wire can cause that. Check the distributor cap for arcing.
Raunel I have the same problem and I believe that the cam gear is missing a tooth. It will go from hyper advanced to overly retarded and back. I have been able to get it to start by adjusting the spark timing (rotating distributor) but the valves still sound wrong.
Hola buenas tardes este tengo un problema en mi camioneta es una for igual q la des video este no en siende me manda muy poca corriente alas bujias que podria aser por favor gracias
Intente reemplazar su módulo de distribuidor. También su bobina puede estar mal ... ver si se está calentando o tiene fugas.
worked grate thanks
You're Welcome and thanks for the comment!
Hola,,,de TijuanaMexico,,, border with SanDiego, Ca., ,,,,my ford Aerostar87_ is olmost some.. ,, 17*08*2021..
It's a bitch to get the retainer clip and bolt back in! :)
Sometimes it can be, and sometimes it is a piece of cake.
@@SteveAZ711 :)...I'll tell you when it's hard...When it's 90, humid and you had a bitch seating the distributor back in on my 93 f150...:)...Like I did yesterday...Dropped it (the clip) into the crossmember...Doing it on asphalt in the sun...WEEEEEEEEEEEE...And of course; IT DIDN'T FIX THE PROBLEM!....Once we found it; you're right; "piece of cake...I did it like you did- one handed, went right in...
Ok
I like your video but the ungodly music was horrible
Sorry!
@SteveAZ711 the music is great man!
Lose the "music" it sure as hell doesn't add anything to an instruction video,
what if you do all of that and the is no compression ?
Hello, Well if I was experiencing a no compression problem I would first expect a stuck or extremely out of adjustment valve or lifter (either exhaust or intake). I would take the side cover plate off on the block behind the distributor where I could see the push rods. If it is easier to take the rocker (aka valve cover ) off then I would do that. Then I would rotate the engine over (by hand from the crank pulley) and watch the action of the valves on the #1 piston position. If either of the valves (exhaust or intake) is not moving up and down, then it may be stuck open, or held open by a bad lifter that may also be stuck and not making contact with the cam.
Now, if both rockers are moving up and down and the valves are opening and closing then I would loosen the adjusting nuts on the rockers a bit to make sure the valves have a chance to be fully closed ( this would make the rockers loose and give a very clacky noise if the engine were running).
Now do a compression check. If you know the valves are closed because you backed off the the rocker nuts enough and still have no compression, then take a small block of wood and a hammer and tap on the valve stem. The idea is to see if the valve is moving down and then back up. Do this on both valves ( you may have to loosen the rockers up enough and set them off the the side of the valve stem spring to actually notice and feel the valve moving. This procedure may free up a stuck valve. Be sure to tap on the valve stem and not the spring itself as you do not want to have the spring-stem valve keepers to come loose and have the valve spring come loose and drop the valve down into the cylinder..
If all this fails to get you some sort of compression then it is possible to have a seriously burnt valve or some sort of piston or piston ring failure that is letting the compressed air escape out of the cylinder. I am assuming that your cam gear and cam are in good shape and not missing any teeth. If your push rods (and I mean all of them) are not moving then your cam gear is most liked striped of its teeth.
It is my hope that you find a stuck lifter that is holding the valve open.