My 94 F150 4x4 5.8, So my engine Is violently shaking at idle, I've already replaced motor mounts, Idle air control valve, PCV valve, Harmonic balancer, EGR valve, EVP sensor, Tune up and ignition coil pack. And my engine is still shaking at idle, but it doesn't shake while driving just at stop. Can you all give me some suggestions, thanks all..
6 degrees makes a big difference. I always advance mine till I get spark knock (ping) then back it off until it stops. Fuel mileage wont get any better but the truck will pull itself up hills with kicking down a gear. Great vid and nice looking square body you got there.
I want to say thanks for the video I have a 95 5.8 I didn't think I had a spout until you told me where it was so I set mine at about 12 it's running much better now almost like a completely different engine so thanks.
My tuck is bad out of time and I wanna try to put it in time tomorrow and this video helped alot so I think I'm ready but did you put the grey spout connector back in?
😊😊😊...You take out and put the "Spout" with the truck....NOT...running...Then you chk and adjust the Distributor WITH the trk running...Gotta be in a dust free environment coz you gotta remove the Intake pipes to have access to the Distributor...I would suggest you wear Rubber gloves when touching the Distributor as my brother used to think that it was a good joke and tell us to touch it and we get a good jolt...But, yeah, the Spout needs to be reinstall once you chk and adjust your Timing...😊😊
I have a 92 Ford f150 5.0 and it lacked power and the MPGs. I bought a timing gun and checked it.. Oh man it was way out! Runs smoother, more power, no hesitation and hopefully better MPGs! 🤘🏻
ford f150 1992 230,000 mile runs great uses no oil. same a/c compressor, only changes alt./ starter. regular 50,000 trans/filter flush . coolant flush. one oil pan gasket just went to posi/track rear end love it.
Mr Fox Truck was running great with no issues so I checked my timing as in your video and found it a little off just like yours. I adjusted it to 10 degrees shut off the truck reinstalled the spout connector. Started the truck back up and now I have a code P1359 Spark Output Circuit. Any suggestions. Thanks
10° off slack in the timing chain, bought a new double roller chain and sprockets, however, while pulling the water pump, 3 bolts broke off, luckily they're about 3in long so shouldn't be to hard to get out I hope, curious as to how you did it
If they are sticking out of the timing cover, just try grabbing onto them with some vice grips or something and turning them... however, the timing chain cover is aluminum and over the years those bolts tend to about weld themselves inside the timing cover. I would try turning one way, then the other, little by little and see if you can crack em loose.
I bought a '94 E-150 early last year and have never gotten the MPG I thought I should (10-12 combined) I will definitely check the timing soon! Good video, thanks.
I just did mine.. I can't seem to figure out why I cant turn the distributor after a certain point. That max point leaves me a little under 10 degrees. I can't hit 10, much less the 12 Degrees everyone recommends with these 302's.. '94 Ford F-150 302 small block.
I tried this out with my 1993 lightning, it was set at 24 so I adjusted it to 10 but when I reconnect the spout and turned it back on and rechecked it, it set back to 24, so I drove it for a week and checked it, same thing it is at 24, any idea what is wrong?
oh and that spout is located on the harness with the tfi plug, mine is by the distributor, newer models like yours are located on the fender wall drivers side
I have a 1996 Ford F-150 with all the EGR crap disabled, Air pump is just an idler now, catalytic converter gone. Because we don't need that here in Hawaii. And I just set the timing by the performance of the truck.
Ruff Riders You can use a timing light to set timing. Set it to spec. Then advance it 2° and see. Drive uphills under load and check for ping. Timing a little too advanced can cause a truck to be a little slow uphill. But it might have more power on straightaways. EGR cools the cylinders and prevents ping.
Jason Smith You need the EGR. It cools the cylinders. You could just disconnect the hose and plug it. Or remove those parts but you'd have to reroute vacuum hoses and plug them. It'll cause EGR codes. Leave them on and plug the hose at the EGR.
Get s Actron CP9690 to check codes. It checks live, record, graphing, emissions tests, transmission code tests, check engine light turn off, timing advance test, solenoid and relay tests, code connect to diagnose codes, and MORE! It works from 1983-2013 and is updatable. EBAY has it.
I have a 95 bronco and have replaced all spark plugs and put new high performance msd coil and wires along with new intake with evp and egr etc. I also removed my cats but my truck still feel way underpowered and can hardly spin my tires on gravel. Feels very weak and I went to look at my timing but I have no markings on it. I've never done a timing tune but this really stumps me.
Did you unplug the distributor vacuum advance while you were setting timing? Any extra steps to factor in vacuum advance? Thanks for sharing the video and your time..! :D
Still running the original 3.55 gears. Would like to bump it to 4.10 gears... may be doing that in the near future. Really I don't have any problem with 3.55 though. She does a lot better than I thought she would.
+The Fox Shop ... ok thanks I've got 33's on my 95 with an auto trans and it down shifts to much so I'm thinking 4.10 but maybe 4.56 cause I wanna go with 35's in the near future
I believe I set it at 12 if I remember right. Havent messed with it since. I really thought it made a big difference, but I did put new plugs and wires in as well... and for whatever reason it was set at 6 before this vid.
Mine has new plugs (5000 miles on em now), MSD cap, rotor, MSD Blaster coil, and a set of Ford Racing wires that I installed earlier this year, so I think bumping then timing up should help it some.
Shouldn't hurt it any. I bumped to 15 before because I read a lot of people do it, but if you do pay attention for any pinging going on and back it off if that happens. I think mine is at 12, maybe 13 and seems to like it.
what year is your truck? The gauges in these trucks is a dummy gauge, no better than a light. All they do is show if you have pressure or not... on or off. if the factory gauge is reading low you probably just need a new oil sending unit/switch. I did a video on that last spring.
1990, I installed real gauges, and it reads 50 lbs at start up but as I drive and the engine warms up to operating temp it drops to 25lbs, not all at once but gradually, I know my oil pan gasket needs changing so for $35 why not throw a new oil pump in it, right?
I don't think you have low oil pressure. When cold it probably will have 50-60 lbs, as it warms up it will drop down. Sounds like you are about right. After warmed up when you rev the engine or when you take off from a stop does the oil pressure move up some? Also... to replace the pan gasket (what engine do you have?) Probably going to have to lift the engine a few inches. Are you sure the pan is leaking or is it leaking down from somewhere else? Valve covers, where the oil dispstick enters, oil pressure sending unit. Have you tried just snugging up the pan bolts? (not too tight, don't remember the torque spec but it aint much)
I got a 92 Ford f150 4.9litter can't figure out what's wrong with it . new fuel pump . new ecm new Icm new battery new ignition coil. I think it's a wire that connects to the side of my engine I think it's called a spout connector. But Idk. its one wire
I had a crank and no spark issue. I ended up testing everything and it ended up being the pickup coil in the distributor. I replaced the whole distributor because it would've been more trouble to take the thing apart
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My 94 F150 4x4 5.8, So my engine Is violently shaking at idle, I've already replaced motor mounts, Idle air control valve, PCV valve, Harmonic balancer, EGR valve, EVP sensor, Tune up and ignition coil pack. And my engine is still shaking at idle, but it doesn't shake while driving just at stop. Can you all give me some suggestions, thanks all..
6 degrees makes a big difference. I always advance mine till I get spark knock (ping) then back it off until it stops. Fuel mileage wont get any better but the truck will pull itself up hills with kicking down a gear. Great vid and nice looking square body you got there.
I want to say thanks for the video I have a 95 5.8 I didn't think I had a spout until you told me where it was so I set mine at about 12 it's running much better now almost like a completely different engine so thanks.
My tuck is bad out of time and I wanna try to put it in time tomorrow and this video helped alot so I think I'm ready but did you put the grey spout connector back in?
😊😊😊...You take out and put the "Spout" with the truck....NOT...running...Then you chk and adjust the Distributor WITH the trk running...Gotta be in a dust free environment coz you gotta remove the Intake pipes to have access to the Distributor...I would suggest you wear Rubber gloves when touching the Distributor as my brother used to think that it was a good joke and tell us to touch it and we get a good jolt...But, yeah, the Spout needs to be reinstall once you chk and adjust your Timing...😊😊
I have a 92 Ford f150 5.0 and it lacked power and the MPGs. I bought a timing gun and checked it.. Oh man it was way out! Runs smoother, more power, no hesitation and hopefully better MPGs! 🤘🏻
The pointer the timing pointer
ford f150 1992 230,000 mile runs great uses no oil. same a/c compressor, only changes alt./ starter. regular 50,000 trans/filter flush . coolant flush. one oil pan gasket just went to posi/track rear end love it.
Mr Fox Truck was running great with no issues so I checked my timing as in your video and found it a little off just like yours. I adjusted it to 10 degrees shut off the truck reinstalled the spout connector. Started the truck back up and now I have a code P1359 Spark Output Circuit. Any suggestions. Thanks
I would check the spout connector, make sure it's making s good connection? .
10° off slack in the timing chain, bought a new double roller chain and sprockets, however, while pulling the water pump, 3 bolts broke off, luckily they're about 3in long so shouldn't be to hard to get out I hope, curious as to how you did it
If they are sticking out of the timing cover, just try grabbing onto them with some vice grips or something and turning them... however, the timing chain cover is aluminum and over the years those bolts tend to about weld themselves inside the timing cover. I would try turning one way, then the other, little by little and see if you can crack em loose.
I bought a '94 E-150 early last year and have never gotten the MPG I thought I should (10-12 combined) I will definitely check the timing soon! Good video, thanks.
Install dist with balancer at tdc? Rotor pointing at #1? Just making sure.
My hood sticker says to gap plugs between 52-56, chilton says 44....
What did u gap ur at?
94 302 2wd
I just did mine.. I can't seem to figure out why I cant turn the distributor after a certain point. That max point leaves me a little under 10 degrees. I can't hit 10, much less the 12 Degrees everyone recommends with these 302's.. '94 Ford F-150 302 small block.
And yes, you're right. I have the Haynes manual, and I too noticed that it didn't show how to take off the little clip from the firewall. Weird..
Any advice on freeing a frozen distributor??
p.b. blaster where the dist and engine meet and a oil filter wrench.
Great video very quick and to the point I like that
+Matt Brooks Thanks man!!! Appreciate it!
When you say it’s pinging would that kinda sound like metal tapping ? Sorta like you shook a can with metal bbs in it.
Hey man, great video. Im wondering where does the line mark line up to. The circle, notch, or the staight edge of that piece above the balancer?
I tried this out with my 1993 lightning, it was set at 24 so I adjusted it to 10 but when I reconnect the spout and turned it back on and rechecked it, it set back to 24, so I drove it for a week and checked it, same thing it is at 24, any idea what is wrong?
Spout auto ajusts?
oh and that spout is located on the harness with the tfi plug, mine is by the distributor, newer models like yours are located on the fender wall drivers side
Do the timing light magnifying the timing pointer when it blinks
I have a 1996 Ford F-150 with all the EGR crap disabled, Air pump is just an idler now, catalytic converter gone. Because we don't need that here in Hawaii. And I just set the timing by the performance of the truck.
Ruff Riders how do I go about disabling the egr crap????
Ruff Riders You can use a timing light to set timing. Set it to spec. Then advance it 2° and see. Drive uphills under load and check for ping. Timing a little too advanced can cause a truck to be a little slow uphill. But it might have more power on straightaways. EGR cools the cylinders and prevents ping.
Jason Smith You need the EGR. It cools the cylinders. You could just disconnect the hose and plug it. Or remove those parts but you'd have to reroute vacuum hoses and plug them. It'll cause EGR codes. Leave them on and plug the hose at the EGR.
Get s Actron CP9690 to check codes. It checks live, record, graphing, emissions tests, transmission code tests, check engine light turn off, timing advance test, solenoid and relay tests, code connect to diagnose codes, and MORE! It works from 1983-2013 and is updatable. EBAY has it.
My 88 has the spout and is located next to the distributor.
I have a 95 bronco and have replaced all spark plugs and put new high performance msd coil and wires along with new intake with evp and egr etc. I also removed my cats but my truck still feel way underpowered and can hardly spin my tires on gravel. Feels very weak and I went to look at my timing but I have no markings on it. I've never done a timing tune but this really stumps me.
314Ford Shop did u ever find out what ur problem was having same issue
Big tires?
How much does a timing gun cost?
Depends
Did you unplug the distributor vacuum advance while you were setting timing? Any extra steps to factor in vacuum advance? Thanks for sharing the video and your time..! :D
doesn't have one.
no vacuum advance on the truck
I set the balancer on 0° tdc, why's it say to set it 10° btdc?
Because you are supposed to set the timing at 10 btdc. I think mine is set at 12 or 14? I don't remember, might have said it in the video.
thank you thank you very much
yea I'm gonna check for any other leaks, I know the oil pan leaks, I'm pretty sure that's all tho, its 62° here, beautiful day in south Mississippi
I'm curious ok what gears that your running now with the 35's ?
Still running the original 3.55 gears. Would like to bump it to 4.10 gears... may be doing that in the near future. Really I don't have any problem with 3.55 though. She does a lot better than I thought she would.
+The Fox Shop ... ok thanks I've got 33's on my 95 with an auto trans and it down shifts to much so I'm thinking 4.10 but maybe 4.56 cause I wanna go with 35's in the near future
How much did you turn it ? To go from get to 12 ?
should be just a bump. very little
What did you end up running for timing in it. May end up doing that to mine.
I believe I set it at 12 if I remember right. Havent messed with it since. I really thought it made a big difference, but I did put new plugs and wires in as well... and for whatever reason it was set at 6 before this vid.
Mine has new plugs (5000 miles on em now), MSD cap, rotor, MSD Blaster coil, and a set of Ford Racing wires that I installed earlier this year, so I think bumping then timing up should help it some.
Shouldn't hurt it any. I bumped to 15 before because I read a lot of people do it, but if you do pay attention for any pinging going on and back it off if that happens. I think mine is at 12, maybe 13 and seems to like it.
I'm gonna set it to 12 and see how she likes it. My truck also likes the Valvoline Max Life 10W40 I put in it at my last oil change.
update on my 90 F250, replaced timing chain and gears, may need to adjust distributor, idk, still runs rough
plugs, wires, timing. Check engine light on or anything?
I just could not see my marks I had trouble I want to attempt to try again
Ya BUT.... how do you advance the timing on
A 99 truck 4.6.
Hand held tuner.
drtb69 hand held tuner. Ok
Thank you.I'll try that.
no check engine light, only things I haven't changed are the 02 sensor and ecm
Next project for my f250..… Oil Pump and pan gasket✌✌✌ currently has low oil pressure
what year is your truck? The gauges in these trucks is a dummy gauge, no better than a light. All they do is show if you have pressure or not... on or off. if the factory gauge is reading low you probably just need a new oil sending unit/switch. I did a video on that last spring.
my 1990 f250 has the 5.0 with that spout
1990, I installed real gauges, and it reads 50 lbs at start up but as I drive and the engine warms up to operating temp it drops to 25lbs, not all at once but gradually, I know my oil pan gasket needs changing so for $35 why not throw a new oil pump in it, right?
I don't think you have low oil pressure. When cold it probably will have 50-60 lbs, as it warms up it will drop down. Sounds like you are about right. After warmed up when you rev the engine or when you take off from a stop does the oil pressure move up some? Also... to replace the pan gasket (what engine do you have?) Probably going to have to lift the engine a few inches. Are you sure the pan is leaking or is it leaking down from somewhere else? Valve covers, where the oil dispstick enters, oil pressure sending unit. Have you tried just snugging up the pan bolts? (not too tight, don't remember the torque spec but it aint much)
You should do a walk around video of your f150
What plugs and wires did you use? Great videos Jon very helpful when I get my 92 home
I got a 92 Ford f150 4.9litter can't figure out what's wrong with it . new fuel pump . new ecm new Icm new battery new ignition coil. I think it's a wire that connects to the side of my engine I think it's called a spout connector. But Idk. its one wire
it is connected to electrical wires that also connect to the icm and ignition coil. I think it's bad and burnt out could that stop a car from starting
I had a crank and no spark issue. I ended up testing everything and it ended up being the pickup coil in the distributor. I replaced the whole distributor because it would've been more trouble to take the thing apart
just put new o2 sensor, runs a little better than before, still not quite right tho, think I might have to redo the distributor setting
Ford 88 f150
Hey look... A Ford with no oil leaks.