I love dealing with this but when i love it the most is when its 4 carbs instead of 1,lol, im going thru this right now, i actually freed up 3 of them but of course the last as always is stuck there like someone welded it to the carb, this bike had been sitting since 1984!! I came up with this idea,the slide on my application has a arm that moves it up and down and its screwed to the slide, it ended up getting bent while the fight was happening to free it (not sure why, the other 3 didn't bend), i think i can bend it back carefully back to how it was however im gonna get a steel washer the same size and drill 2 tiny holes in it,weld a rod in the middle of it,screw it on the slide and use the rod as a slide hammer, ill show it who's boss,if not last resort ill use a torch, sorry i just had to vent,lol
Ugh that is tough! Glad your working through it, stuck up carbs can be frustrating to deal with especially with all the delicate parts. Hopefully you can straighten yours back out. A little bit of heat may help, Good luck!
Yea that was the same issue I had, rusted tank, plugged up carb and seized slide. Check out my other videos of the carb disassembly and of my rusty tank! Everything was pretty nasty! Hope they help you out.
quick tips; from the least harmful mechanic tricks, The stator's on most ATC's under the recoil when removed, you will see the stator hub covering the stator, you can spray electrical cleaner or a mix of solvents like brake cleaner around and under towards the shaft pointing near the stator guessing where it is, yes that's what that plastic tube is for that comes with solvents for hard to reach places like getting around the hub to clean a stator with out having to use gear pullers to pull the hub to clean it, with light air pressure with an air-wand don't go above 35 psi, on your air-tank unless you have a psi regulator for your air-compressor, time will be your friend before blowing. Make sure your carb is drained/cleaned of fuel and bowel removed, best to remove float if using a torch. well for the carb problem, the torch seems like a fast way but, can damage more parts like o-ring gaskets of the fuel and air idle control pins H/L, best to remove Carb bowel along with the H/L idle pins , and plastic float, with a sewing punch pin kit, old sewing machine tools will be useful in rebuilding carbs before using a torch, and count how many turns out when unscrewing the (H/L) idle pin, so when clean they can be set back to the correct position when its clean if you do not have a book or maintenance guide/PDF tear-down manual, adjustments vary based on age and metal fatigue of a carb. With extra thought on gasket maker, you can use wax paper,glue,marker,exacto knife, two boards and a C-Clamp to make gasket sheets and gaskets for many carbs and make your own, make sure to use 2-3mm spacers for all 4 corners or use washers, when making a gasket sheet press, I have cleaned and rebuild carbs by boiling them in vinegar and then vegetable oil to remove aluminum oxide and carbon, since it will bond with the oil. Expensive solvents clearly won't save much time and may science aid you with caution in your efforts from spending more or less money when properly prepping parts, before using thermal treatment to risk other issues occurring like heir line fracturing your carb with thermal shock with a torch. old mechanic's would soak tear downed carbs in K-2 that they bled from a furnace or controlled contained cleaning containers for parts only.. expensive penetration oil can feel wasteful when two or three cans out weigh the cost of a rebuild kit for the carb if you can't make your own and find the correct size O-rings at the hardware store, best to buy O-ring assortments kits online for many other carb rebuilding projects, far cheaper in the long term. High penetration oil is good for final cleaning and for sensitive parts like jets, pinto float needle, along with carb piston needles with fine cloth used to clean camera lens or glasses, some mechanics use isopropyl alcohol for the final cleaning process for carbs before rebuilding because cost of volume and effectiveness.
Thank you for your input. I did completely rebuild this carb in a later video, I figure worst case scenario is buy a complete carb online and a new throttle cable if needed, glad I didn’t have to go that route. I did drain the bowl on the carb and remove the fuel tank as well so that wasn’t in harms way. The fuel was so old and degraded it wasn’t as flammable as fresh gas. Crazy what happens to stuff when it gets neglected for years.
I have a KLT 250 and the slide is sticky and will rev high after a little bit of driving I almost hurt someone so I cleaned the slide and determined it’s not the cable so hopefully it will work I soaked the slide in brake and parts clean for about half and hour and throughly cleaned it
Ow! yea that could get sketchy! Once i freed this one it was all sticky and i cleaned it up and used some scotch bright on it and it helped quite a bit. Hope yours works out.
You can see some bright flame when I was heating up the carb, that was the little bit of old gas that was in the fuel inlet. I had tipped the carburetor upside down so most of the fuel was out of the bowl as well. Btw this method did not damage the carb at all, since this video I have rebuilt it and the atv has been running very well. Thanks for watching!
High Priority mine was pretty gross inside and all the vent things were plugged solid and even after spraying loads of carb clean and compressed air they were still pretty bad
Just thought I would give you an update. I got the carb cleaned, had to replace a plugged pilot jet, and the tank is cleaned out and repaired. I have been ripping this thing around my yard, pretty fun little thing! A lot more power than i was expecting, I will get a video up of it in action some time.
I love dealing with this but when i love it the most is when its 4 carbs instead of 1,lol, im going thru this right now, i actually freed up 3 of them but of course the last as always is stuck there like someone welded it to the carb, this bike had been sitting since 1984!!
I came up with this idea,the slide on my application has a arm that moves it up and down and its screwed to the slide, it ended up getting bent while the fight was happening to free it (not sure why, the other 3 didn't bend), i think i can bend it back carefully back to how it was however im gonna get a steel washer the same size and drill 2 tiny holes in it,weld a rod in the middle of it,screw it on the slide and use the rod as a slide hammer, ill show it who's boss,if not last resort ill use a torch, sorry i just had to vent,lol
Ugh that is tough! Glad your working through it, stuck up carbs can be frustrating to deal with especially with all the delicate parts. Hopefully you can straighten yours back out. A little bit of heat may help, Good luck!
Had a stuck slide in a mikuni carb on my Intruder 1400. Heat did the trick. Thanks for the video.
Glad the vid helped!
Thanks for that. Just what I needed to free up my throttle slide on a old Harley sx 250 barn find I'm working on
Right on glad I could help! Sounds like a fun project. Just looked at pics, cool bike!
Thank you for this video
You likely save me hours of frustration
I should mention that I had a carb with a slide that has been stuck for 20 years… This opened it up and it slid out like butter in 60 seconds
@@thatracer05 great news! Glad the vid helped. I read a long time ago but never found anyone showing it being done.
I'm having this problem with my honda atc125m. I will definitely try this out. I have a rusty tank and it made it into the carb
Yea that was the same issue I had, rusted tank, plugged up carb and seized slide. Check out my other videos of the carb disassembly and of my rusty tank! Everything was pretty nasty! Hope they help you out.
quick tips; from the least harmful mechanic tricks, The stator's on most ATC's under the recoil when removed, you will see the stator hub covering the stator, you can spray electrical cleaner or a mix of solvents like brake cleaner around and under towards the shaft pointing near the stator guessing where it is, yes that's what that plastic tube is for that comes with solvents for hard to reach places like getting around the hub to clean a stator with out having to use gear pullers to pull the hub to clean it, with light air pressure with an air-wand don't go above 35 psi, on your air-tank unless you have a psi regulator for your air-compressor, time will be your friend before blowing.
Make sure your carb is drained/cleaned of fuel and bowel removed, best to remove float if using a torch.
well for the carb problem, the torch seems like a fast way but, can damage more parts like o-ring gaskets of the fuel and air idle control pins H/L, best to remove Carb bowel along with the H/L idle pins , and plastic float, with a sewing punch pin kit, old sewing machine tools will be useful in rebuilding carbs before using a torch, and count how many turns out when unscrewing the (H/L) idle pin, so when clean they can be set back to the correct position when its clean if you do not have a book or maintenance guide/PDF tear-down manual, adjustments vary based on age and metal fatigue of a carb.
With extra thought on gasket maker, you can use wax paper,glue,marker,exacto knife, two boards and a C-Clamp to make gasket sheets and gaskets for many carbs and make your own, make sure to use 2-3mm spacers for all 4 corners or use washers, when making a gasket sheet press, I have cleaned and rebuild carbs by boiling them in vinegar and then vegetable oil to remove aluminum oxide and carbon, since it will bond with the oil.
Expensive solvents clearly won't save much time and may science aid you with caution in your efforts from spending more or less money when properly prepping parts, before using thermal treatment to risk other issues occurring like heir line fracturing your carb with thermal shock with a torch.
old mechanic's would soak tear downed carbs in K-2 that they bled from a furnace or controlled contained cleaning containers for parts only..
expensive penetration oil can feel wasteful when two or three cans out weigh the cost of a rebuild kit for the carb if you can't make your own and find the correct size O-rings at the hardware store, best to buy O-ring assortments kits online for many other carb rebuilding projects, far cheaper in the long term.
High penetration oil is good for final cleaning and for sensitive parts like jets, pinto float needle, along with carb piston needles with fine cloth used to clean camera lens or glasses,
some mechanics use isopropyl alcohol for the final cleaning process for carbs before rebuilding because cost of volume and effectiveness.
Thank you for your input. I did completely rebuild this carb in a later video, I figure worst case scenario is buy a complete carb online and a new throttle cable if needed, glad I didn’t have to go that route. I did drain the bowl on the carb and remove the fuel tank as well so that wasn’t in harms way. The fuel was so old and degraded it wasn’t as flammable as fresh gas. Crazy what happens to stuff when it gets neglected for years.
I’m having the same problem with 1985 Honda rtx 250 but def will try the method you used. Thanks for sharing brother
Hope it helps you out, thanks for watching!
thanks that helped a lot i have the exact same carb problem on this honda big red thanks😁
@@jenbrushwood8872 awesome! Glad it worked for ya.
I've been trying to get that out the past two days thanks man ive sprayed everything on it lol
Same problem I had and I couldn’t find anyone who’s done this. Glad I could help!
Nice had the same problem thanks for the help
Right on! Glad I could help.
I have a KLT 250 and the slide is sticky and will rev high after a little bit of driving I almost hurt someone so I cleaned the slide and determined it’s not the cable so hopefully it will work I soaked the slide in brake and parts clean for about half and hour and throughly cleaned it
Ow! yea that could get sketchy! Once i freed this one it was all sticky and i cleaned it up and used some scotch bright on it and it helped quite a bit. Hope yours works out.
Awesome. I may have to try that in a day or two.
yea it worked great for me, I was a little hesitant to do it but didn't have much choice haha!
It worked
Thanks
I hope this helped ya out.
@@HighPriority It added another proven technique to my mental toolbox. For that I am grateful.. and subscribed.
Thank you So muchhh man, 100% legit
I appreciate it! Hope it helped ya out.
Am concerned about any gas fumes.
You can see some bright flame when I was heating up the carb, that was the little bit of old gas that was in the fuel inlet. I had tipped the carburetor upside down so most of the fuel was out of the bowl as well. Btw this method did not damage the carb at all, since this video I have rebuilt it and the atv has been running very well. Thanks for watching!
I bought a klt 160 last summer and the choke was stuck and the fuel inlet was plugged solid just like yours
Yea this thing must have been sitting a long time. Carb tear down coming up, pretty crazy inside this thing. Was your carb all seized up as well?
High Priority mine was pretty gross inside and all the vent things were plugged solid and even after spraying loads of carb clean and compressed air they were still pretty bad
Just thought I would give you an update. I got the carb cleaned, had to replace a plugged pilot jet, and the tank is cleaned out and repaired. I have been ripping this thing around my yard, pretty fun little thing! A lot more power than i was expecting, I will get a video up of it in action some time.
@@HighPriority Nice. Ive been busy working on my truck so I havent worked on mine in a while