A little tip to help access to the filter, without removing the intake of course. The vacuum line that runs to the brake booster can be easily moved, giving much better access. Slide the little red clip towards the drivers side slightly and it allows you to move the line out of the way. Assembly is exact opposite, push line together, push red clip towards passenger side and it's good to go.
To just hand tighten the oil filter is bad advice because by not torquing to spec will lead to no or very low oil pressure. I almost had my diesel towed to the dealer after I lost oil pressure. Googled the problem and I learned how important torquing the oil filter is in this vehicle. After properly torquing the oil filter vehicle maintained proper oil pressure.
My best advice for removing the oil filter is to place a rag right under/beside the oil filter before you remove it, this will catch the drips from the filter as you lift it out. As opposed to cleaning up the mess afterwards like I did the first time I changed the oil :)
I’d torque it to spec which is 18.45 lbs. Ft. If you convert 25nm. I tightened it by hand and everything was fine the first drive, on my way back I had low oil pressure. I took the filter off, tightened it to spec, my pressure was fine after that.
Got both the 3.6L and the 3.0L; and with bigger wheels and tires (38s) that turbo diesel runs smoothly with the added torque. Pair that with a Banks tuner and Peddle Monster and it’s perfect for these mountain roads by where I live. But I agree, the 3.6 is a reliable and easy engine to take care of. Tried and true performance
The oil filter needs to be tightened to specs with a torque wrench. If not tightened properly, it is quite common to get low oil pressure warnings when the oil pressure drops at idle. This is a known problem with these engines and filters. Since 25.5 NM is below the setting threshold on many torque wrenches, one can use an inch pounds torque wrench and 25.5 NM converts to 225 inch pounds, which is generally right at the top of the scale for an inch pounds wrench.
I kind of like the water separator like that. I have a diesel Jaguar and the water separator is $100 to replace. Its replaced each oil change. Although i feel that it being plastic will get brittle and break over time.
@@heathenhalflings Street diesel has a greenish tint. If you are running farm/heating diesel, it's a reddish tint. The govt tints the diesel to make sure you are paying your taxes--less 10% for the big guy wearing Depends!
lol. I saw this guys video a while back. I’ve learned a lot since then. Like don’t listen to him. That filter needs to be tightened to spec or you’ll get low oil pressure warnings.
I've had my JLUR EcoDiesel since it was released. It's a great, strong powertrain. It burns DEF way faster than Jeep claimed. Something to consider though, Jeep is phasing this engine out right now and due to the volatility in car prices and supply chain constraints starting right when this diesel option was released (RE: COVID lockdown), Jeep didn't see the market it was hoping for. As a result, regular parts are hard to come by and service techs are not very familiar with the slight variations in this jeep compared to the gas versions. This same thing is being seen by the aftermarket parts arena as well. The engine compartment is arranged different, so cold air intakes, snorkels, wheel liners, skid plates, exhaust, and some other parts don't fit right. Therefore, parts makers have much lower incentive to create products for this market. Throw in the fact that the engine is phasing out, now they care even less about it. All that in mind, I'm happy with my decision to buy the ecodiesel, but if i were in the market right now I'd buy a gas power train. If you do chose to get one, your just going to have to adjust your expectations.
@@DoingThingsInPlaceshow do you tell gen 1 from 2? I just bought a 2014 jeep grand Cherokee with the 3.0 diesel and I'm about to put rotella t6 5w-40 in it until I read this comment lol
@@nlanwebb For the ecodiesel: Gen 1 is pre 2014 and was not offered in the USA. Gen 2 is 2014-2018 (these can use rotella without damaging the emissions system). Gen 3 is 2019+ and Rotella is not approved because it can damage the emissions system. Oil spec recommendations can change with time, but as of this post, this is the guidance from Stellantis. It has to do with the ash content and how it can clog up the emission control devices (which are very expensive), not with whether its good at lubricating the mechanical parts.
A little tip to help access to the filter, without removing the intake of course. The vacuum line that runs to the brake booster can be easily moved, giving much better access. Slide the little red clip towards the drivers side slightly and it allows you to move the line out of the way. Assembly is exact opposite, push line together, push red clip towards passenger side and it's good to go.
To just hand tighten the oil filter is bad advice because by not torquing to spec will lead to no or very low oil pressure. I almost had my diesel towed to the dealer after I lost oil pressure. Googled the problem and I learned how important torquing the oil filter is in this vehicle. After properly torquing the oil filter vehicle maintained proper oil pressure.
My best advice for removing the oil filter is to place a rag right under/beside the oil filter before you remove it, this will catch the drips from the filter as you lift it out. As opposed to cleaning up the mess afterwards like I did the first time I changed the oil :)
So you don’t extract the puddle of old oil left in the filter housing .? I do . Using a syphon or shop rag to soak it up.. then install new filter..
I’d torque it to spec which is 18.45 lbs. Ft. If you convert 25nm. I tightened it by hand and everything was fine the first drive, on my way back I had low oil pressure. I took the filter off, tightened it to spec, my pressure was fine after that.
I’ve never experience that on any vehicle I hand tightened the filter on. It may have been operator error
Thanks for making this video and making me feel better about buying a Wrangler with a 3.6--I hate added maintenance!
Got both the 3.6L and the 3.0L; and with bigger wheels and tires (38s) that turbo diesel runs smoothly with the added torque. Pair that with a Banks tuner and Peddle Monster and it’s perfect for these mountain roads by where I live. But I agree, the 3.6 is a reliable and easy engine to take care of. Tried and true performance
Great video, But your website link to shop for the fuel filters doesn't offer the ecodeisel-specific one.
The oil filter needs to be tightened to specs with a torque wrench. If not tightened properly, it is quite common to get low oil pressure warnings when the oil pressure drops at idle. This is a known problem with these engines and filters. Since 25.5 NM is below the setting threshold on many torque wrenches, one can use an inch pounds torque wrench and 25.5 NM converts to 225 inch pounds, which is generally right at the top of the scale for an inch pounds wrench.
I kind of like the water separator like that. I have a diesel Jaguar and the water separator is $100 to replace. Its replaced each oil change. Although i feel that it being plastic will get brittle and break over time.
Thanks for showing me where the oil filter hides Rob! 😂
Perfect video!! Thanks for the tutorial!!
On the Diesel/water drain step, how do you know when it’s good to stop draining?
Color will change from watery diesel to clean diesel.
@@deanh7190 ......but what are the colors lol
@@heathenhalflings Street diesel has a greenish tint. If you are running farm/heating diesel, it's a reddish tint. The govt tints the diesel to make sure you are paying your taxes--less 10% for the big guy wearing Depends!
lol. I saw this guys video a while back. I’ve learned a lot since then. Like don’t listen to him. That filter needs to be tightened to spec or you’ll get low oil pressure warnings.
Will this work on a ‘21 ?
Have you done a video on how to change fuel filter on the ecodeisel
Love the video very helpful.
Mopar oil filter costs almost $120, there is a after market that doesn't void warranty
Where did you dispose the old oil and filter?
Most auto parts stores will take used oil. I go to O'Reilly's
Do you have to change filter every time you change oil
yes, you should always change the oil filter when changing the oil. The filter itself is actually cheaper than the oil.
I can not find for 2020 diesel engine if you have link where to buy
Thanks for sharing
Gracias por compartir
Muito Obrigado.
Can you show how to do the fuel filter as well?
There’s tons of videos on TH-cam about it . Easy
27 mm 6 Point Socket.
Thanks for sharing.
Rob , what’s your take on the ecodiesel? I’m considering on making a purchase on a gladiator eco diesel
I've had my JLUR EcoDiesel since it was released. It's a great, strong powertrain. It burns DEF way faster than Jeep claimed. Something to consider though, Jeep is phasing this engine out right now and due to the volatility in car prices and supply chain constraints starting right when this diesel option was released (RE: COVID lockdown), Jeep didn't see the market it was hoping for. As a result, regular parts are hard to come by and service techs are not very familiar with the slight variations in this jeep compared to the gas versions. This same thing is being seen by the aftermarket parts arena as well. The engine compartment is arranged different, so cold air intakes, snorkels, wheel liners, skid plates, exhaust, and some other parts don't fit right. Therefore, parts makers have much lower incentive to create products for this market. Throw in the fact that the engine is phasing out, now they care even less about it. All that in mind, I'm happy with my decision to buy the ecodiesel, but if i were in the market right now I'd buy a gas power train. If you do chose to get one, your just going to have to adjust your expectations.
Jeep recommends NOT to use Blu-Def, only Mopar to cover any warranty issues with the Def system. I know!
Do you have to use synthetic?
Yes the oil specs that the eco diesel requires is only found in 5w40 synthetic oil
The oil is annoying , supposedly you can’t run rotella T6
The oil specification is to prevent damage to the emissions system, which is different from the gen 2 ecodiesels which allow for t6.
@@DoingThingsInPlaceshow do you tell gen 1 from 2? I just bought a 2014 jeep grand Cherokee with the 3.0 diesel and I'm about to put rotella t6 5w-40 in it until I read this comment lol
@@nlanwebb For the ecodiesel: Gen 1 is pre 2014 and was not offered in the USA. Gen 2 is 2014-2018 (these can use rotella without damaging the emissions system). Gen 3 is 2019+ and Rotella is not approved because it can damage the emissions system. Oil spec recommendations can change with time, but as of this post, this is the guidance from Stellantis. It has to do with the ash content and how it can clog up the emission control devices (which are very expensive), not with whether its good at lubricating the mechanical parts.
You might have removed your Apple watch for this task….
Stop
What