Might think about lowering the tool center line, just a bit. In "Old Skool" Machinery Repairman Class, in USN, we were taught to lower the C/L to prevent "tool heal drag" that leaves chip gouges. Above C/L for Boring then Below C/L forTurning & Mill work. + WD-40 for Aluminum work, just a lite film will do. I sold a Bridgeport w/o DRO & 10" Craftsmen Lathe in 1980. Flat Feet & Concrete, UGH😢 Keep on Keeping on😊
Great job dude! I'm Looking at making one for myself. Just bought a bp mill and trying to make or buy most of the tooling I can forsee me needing. Last thing I want is to need to make something and don't have the tool for it. I'm working on an facemill now. Next will be a fly cutter.
No, thats exactly what the Bridgeport was made for ! Eating metal !! Nice cutter man. I’ll be making one this week. I was just looking for some ideas. I like the simplicity of this one. Then I can add a 3/8” and even a 1.4” slot for a HHS shank too. The brazed on carbide lathe cutters work amazingly well for fly cutters. You can hone the edge razor sharp and they leave a glass smooth surface. Enjoy that baby !
Simple and effective. You can set it up to run almost any tool you want. You wont regret building one. I use this very often and love having this capability in my tool kit. Thanks for watching!
I just made some but i use 9.000 Diameter with 1 .625 thickess smooth as butter cut, 1.000 too thin they ring like a bell Too much homantics that why i balance rhem too , my fly cutter weights 20lbs 1144 stress prof steel sold a couple over the years
When surfacing a Head or block do you tilt thee head a very slightly to keep the cutter from doing a cut on the back side and just cutting on the leading edge?
This is great! I just got a 10" piece of steel delivered to try and do the same thing. Question: do you know what type of steel the r8 stub is made from? I see that you used TIG however I only have MIG. Do you think MIG would work? Any suggestions?
The r8 spindle was some type of Chinese steel. It welded really nicely with the tig. You will be fine with a MIG too. I just prefer tig in these cases because I can get a lot of heat in with minimal weld buildup and its fairly spatter free.
Not yet but I do have a job coming up for that soon. I have done some cast iron exhaust manifolds with it. With an insert with a bigger radius tip it cut amazing and left a fantastic surface finish.
So you want the cutting edge of the insert on center, and the body of the holder behind center, right? I just got my first Bridgeport (J head, 1958, I held out forever to find the right machine) and im really getting into making my own tooling rather than buying chinesium.
Yes you want the cutting edge to be at or "behind" center just a tad. I offset the tool holders accordingly. Good luck with your build I love using this thing!
Very nice craftmanship , maybe try putting a thick rubber band around your fly cutter might absorb the chatter just like when cutting brake rotors .
Might think about lowering the tool center line, just a bit.
In "Old Skool" Machinery Repairman Class, in USN,
we were taught to lower the C/L to prevent "tool heal drag" that leaves chip gouges.
Above C/L for Boring then Below C/L forTurning & Mill work.
+
WD-40 for Aluminum work, just a lite film will do.
I sold a Bridgeport w/o DRO & 10" Craftsmen Lathe in 1980.
Flat Feet & Concrete, UGH😢
Keep on Keeping on😊
Yep you usually want it slightly below center line
You just can’t stop Spank Ranch Garage. Also, cool sweatshirt 🤠
It does look good on him
That shirt looks good on you. I just pulled the head off this 2110. That cutter would work perfectly on this! You are a true engineer.
Great job dude! I'm Looking at making one for myself. Just bought a bp mill and trying to make or buy most of the tooling I can forsee me needing. Last thing I want is to need to make something and don't have the tool for it. I'm working on an facemill now. Next will be a fly cutter.
That was pretty cool! Nice Job.
No, thats exactly what the Bridgeport was made for ! Eating metal !! Nice cutter man. I’ll be making one this week. I was just looking for some ideas. I like the simplicity of this one. Then I can add a 3/8” and even a 1.4” slot for a HHS shank too. The brazed on carbide lathe cutters work amazingly well for fly cutters. You can hone the edge razor sharp and they leave a glass smooth surface.
Enjoy that baby !
Simple and effective. You can set it up to run almost any tool you want. You wont regret building one. I use this very often and love having this capability in my tool kit. Thanks for watching!
I think I’m going to build one like this to mill heads and deck blocks on my Bridgeport style Mil
Great video
Super useful tool its worth the effort!
great Idea welding the pipe to the back of disc.....Bravo and thanks for sharing....Paul in Florida
Thanks I was going to make one to cut supercharger manifolds and bases, this absolutely answered all of my questions. brilliant workmanship.
Great to hear! Such a handy tool I use it more than I thought I would
Awesome build & love the ingenuity of finish machining on the mill! Just found your channel, subscribed. Thanks!
Awesome, thank you!
Great video!! I was looking to buy standard fly cutters, but this is better by far.
Thanks,
MJB
Thanks. I use this thing so much. 100% worth the build
Nice job. The fly cutter sounds nice and ridgid.
Thank you!
Just found your channel and Subscribed. Very nice
nice work and low cost...
I can tell you know your shit, despite the drinking. Great build.
The machine shop I bought my mill from used a fly cutter similar but they used a round cutter and it did a nice job.
Round cutter would probably make a great surface finish. I might try that
Great video and awesome job! do you have a link for the lathe tool holder you purchased? or info about it?
Thanks!
I just made some but i use 9.000 Diameter with 1 .625 thickess smooth as butter cut, 1.000 too thin they ring like a bell Too much homantics that why i balance rhem too , my fly cutter weights 20lbs 1144 stress prof steel sold a couple over the years
When surfacing a Head or block do you tilt thee head a very slightly to keep the cutter from doing a cut on the back side and just cutting on the leading edge?
Yes. Just the smallest amount of tilt to prevent the back drag really helps the surface finish.
Saw this on Instagram and was hoping it would be a video. Looks sketchy 🤣
I built something similar, but instead of raw stock, I made it out of a new brake rotor
Awesome! I considered that or an old flywheel. How are the harmonics on yours? Does it ring or does the cast iron dampen it nicely?
This is great! I just got a 10" piece of steel delivered to try and do the same thing. Question: do you know what type of steel the r8 stub is made from? I see that you used TIG however I only have MIG. Do you think MIG would work? Any suggestions?
The r8 spindle was some type of Chinese steel. It welded really nicely with the tig. You will be fine with a MIG too. I just prefer tig in these cases because I can get a lot of heat in with minimal weld buildup and its fairly spatter free.
Thats a Big ask for R8.
Yeah it sure is. Hoping light cuts and the inertia of the flywheel itself adds artificial stiffness
Subed
Thanks for this. Do you mind if I copy it. Looks like you got the goods from McMaster.
Absolutely go for it! The R8 adapter was from amazon I think but everything else McMaster. I use this tool way more often than I expected.
@@spankranchgaragecould you send me the link for the r8 collet on Amazon? Thanks!
I didn't see it mentioned yet but have you tried cutting cast iron heads with this?
Not yet but I do have a job coming up for that soon. I have done some cast iron exhaust manifolds with it. With an insert with a bigger radius tip it cut amazing and left a fantastic surface finish.
@@spankranchgarage Thank you for the response! I'll be keeping an eye out for a video of that
just mild steel on the flywheel?
Yup! Nothing special
Where can I buy a SRG shirt?
We need Spank Ranch merch!
All the merch! Hat, Shirt, socks. I really want to show up to work with a SRG shirt to finally have HR introduce themselves to me!
I think one of the print or embroidery on demand outlets would be fine; t-shirt, perhaps a hoody, and 'spankojet tuned' stickers. I'm in.
If you had a nice flycutter you could of put your fly cutter in your mill to flycut your flycutter.
Why didn’t I think of that!
OLÁ . Para quem entende de geometria e usinagem PROVASTE que sua máquina está DESREGULADA. (onde ficou o "cruzamento"? ABRAÇOS... Roberto Udo Krapf
12:07 you said doodoo💩
So you want the cutting edge of the insert on center, and the body of the holder behind center, right? I just got my first Bridgeport (J head, 1958, I held out forever to find the right machine) and im really getting into making my own tooling rather than buying chinesium.
Yes you want the cutting edge to be at or "behind" center just a tad. I offset the tool holders accordingly. Good luck with your build I love using this thing!
As a 33 year licensed automotive machinist, I got to say great ingenuity and craftsmanship. Subscribed.👍
@@snowasian Thank you!!!