Someone call the county Inspector. Most likely he did not pull a permit for that installment, as there is no way in hell that outdoor unit will pass to code. Or he failed it, then he did not list a video going back for being a idiot.
*Used to supplement the up stairs when it gets hot outside this works very well and **Fastly.Cool** Also works good when the upstairs gets too hot in the Winter from the heater.*
Great job. Clean and professional. The only thing I would have done differently is installed the condenser 12" to 18" away from the house to make it easier to work on and have better air flow available to condenser coil.
Black & Decker has done a good job on cooling a small area with this handy unit...I use this in a loft area all summer for good cool without the inconvenience of installing and blocking a window. Love it!
In Florida, minimum of 12 inches from wall. They do sell smaller valve core tools to remove stems. I always install service panel away from wall for easier access. Great job either way.
Besides Class 2 cable in same conduit as high voltage, clearance of condenser, and crimping suction line inlet so you can use existing 3/4" versus running new 7/8... It was clean and thanks for posting. I appreciate it ! Thanks.
Great job my man. I'm also a one man show for 31 years now in business for myself. Started in HVAC at age 18 and now almost 57 now. Starting to burn out and body breaking down lol. I may start to sub out all my HVAC installs and just concentrate on sales and service. Take some advice if you have some tough jobs that are a two man job find a helper for the day. I installed so many HVAC systems by myself that I should have hired a helper at least for a day or two. Also look into buying or leasing a walking electric hand truck for jobs with lots of steps. Keep up the great work man. Peace \m/\m/...
Seriously .... Excelent Channel, your strong for the work is very inspirational, i'm an One Man Company too, i'm a IT contractor, and i´m a network installer. Your channel helps me. You teachme a lot with your dedication and entusiasm. Sorry for my awful english
Absolute masterclass work and ethic man! Very inspiring. The only thing I’m disappointed in is my self for not finding your channel sooner! Keep the videos coming.
I admire how clean/neat you are with your work. I think that looks are very important, considering a customer spends thousands of dollars, and they don't know HVAC & all they do is see a system, neatness is what they are gonna see first.
The condenser is way too close to the wall. The installer's guide mentions the following: Position the outdoor unit a minimum of 12” from any wall or surrounding shrubbery to ensure adequate airflow.
Jeff, that was my thought exactly. I've struggled w/ tight openings before, & have even had to use my inspection mirror to check connections! That's a recipe for future problems.
I sale American standard and Ameri Star. For several years now. I was a Ruud dealer before that. Really like the stars. They've been pretty much trouble free. Have installed gas packs, heat pump packs, split systems. Not sure what's going to happen in the near future for me. I installed two luxair ( Lennox) split HP just to see how I liked them. They seem fine and work well , but the condensers are Huge .
I’ve installed several brands over the years. Each brand doesn’t really show their faults until about a year or so later. We shall see what the future holds for RunTru.
All you SUPER KEYBOARD GANGSTER TECHNICIANS out there need to calm down... the man did a good job and is a good learning video for apprentices.... let’s see you guys take time to video your installs and see your work. This is the real world and not everything is ran 100% by the book. All of you techs already know this u just wanna sound smart
Agreed Jimmy P. I have been reading the comments from all of the "Freon Leon" magnetic sign guys that think they know everything. These are the same guys that undersell good companies by thousands of dollars and ruin HVAC pricing. Good video though.
Unscrew the king valves next time to save yourself some time. Move that condenser unit away from the wall to allow easier service and proper airflow through outdoor coil.
I work on Lennox's all the time and have to deal with that. Luckily you can pop off the 2 screws holding the service valves and yank em out alittle to put a core tool on.
Hidden Resolve. True or remove valve core with a basic screwdriver style core remover and replace it at about 5 psi. Or lift the unit sit it on a brick to gain access
Nice attention to detail, that is really nice to see....why wait until near the end to braze, test and vacuum? Seems like a lot of time wasted...And the condensing unit so close to the wall?
No, the previous outdoor unit was too close. There's at least 6" on the new one if you look at the scale of things in the video when he's vaccing down. Most paperwork allows 1 side to be 6" if the rest are 12".
@@aquattadomdren6760 I mean to me I think that's a little close man. It makes everything a little bit more difficult to access. Its so easy to service a unit with space. Especially when you have room like that.
Stephen Collins oh believe me man, I always give myself more room when I can. I’m not justifying the decision here since it doesn’t look to me like their are property line issues or anything like that otherwise. I’m just saying that it is fine per manufacturer’s specs. I definitely agree it’s a lot more conducive to work on when you have more room.
Ive had this set about one year. Replaced Carrier unit that was 14 years old. Sized the same. My only complaints are the heat pump is noisy. The fan is loud and there is a very distinct "compressor type sound" on a resonant frequency (for lack of a better explanation) that can be heard from inside the house, but not so much outside. The other is when temps get very cold outside it can't even keep up with 70° 12° outside. Currently 65°. I dont remember this happening with the old unit. But I cant swear it that it didn't. Some areas of the fins never seem to defrost. We bought it because it was the cheapest. Ive spent more time 2nd guessing the decision than I would like.
This is the same comment that I was going to make. Taking the mounting screws out of the service valve to move it around enough to get a core removal tool on is a trick I use from time to time.
Very nice work. Clean and very neat. We live in Beaverton Oregon and had a Bryant 4-Ton Preferred Series 15 SEER Heat Pump installed. The installer "forgot" his Tubing bender so bent the 7/8" copper line-set by hand which oval-shaped the copper. Then since he couldn't do a sharp bend, he brazed right-angle copper fittings at the Condenser and Evaporator. Wondered what this does to refrigerant flow characteristics? I also caught him brazing without using Nitrogen. Line-set inside the Garage runs straight across the floor where we walk. We wanted to fire him on the spot but it was 100 degrees outside and wanted House cooled. My bad. Then I noticed no Filter Dryer. Called Company and they said there is one inside the outdoor unit. There seems to be one. We called Bryant/Carrier and they said absolutely need a 5-Ton Filter Dryer installed. It gets worse! We tried the Heat Pump over the winter and when it powerup up, the Condenser made a terrible noise so we switched back to Natural Gas. Called the installer Company and he said "You have no business using a Heat Pump in Oregon". Natural Gas is so much cheaper. So why is it sounding bad in Heat Pump mode? He said 'because I took out the Orifice on the Condenser and your flooding the Compressor - so you can't use the Heat Pump. So why did you sell us a Heat Pump and wire the Stat to have EM to enable the Heat Pump? No reply. Being very pissed off, I bought a Master Cool 5CFM dual-stage Vacuum Pump. I found the Orifice size I needed in the installers manual. I sucked all the Refrigerant into the Condenser, closed the service valves and disconnected the high-side line 3/8"? and installed the Orifice. Vacuumed the line-set down and let her rip. The System is working OK but still don't have a Dryer installed in the Line-set. We really got screwed but thankfully, it is still working. Wish we could have found someone like you to do the install. People are nuts here. Maybe it is Covid Brain?
If you ever want to change out your schrader valve without having to recover the refrigerant, you can always pump the refrigerant back into the outdoor unit. If you shut your liquid line service valve all the way and hook up your gauges then you can slightly close off your suction side service valve. While holding in your contactor (in a/c mode obviously) you will be able to watch your suction pressure drop down to zero. Once it gets close to zero you can start shutting your service valve as quickly as possible and all of your refrigerant will be back in the outdoor unit just like it was when you originally installed it. At this point you can just change out your schrader valve and pull your vacuum. Then your ready to open up your service valves and fire it up.
He didn’t release the charge yet so all refrigerant already packed in condenser. He weighed in refrigerant so he had to recover what he weighed in which was 24oz.
This is a response to my response I didn't notice your statement until after I read the comments but we are on the same page with the low voltage and high voltage being adjacent
It is to close to the house. Not hating on you. Not only is it restricting the coil, you made it difficult to service. And thats bs that they only put enough in for ten foot of line set.
Im heading into 2nd year in hvac Im in Canada. I have been on construction building vrf systems but haven't done much service so watching vids help. If there is a chance to explain stuff like tips and what to watch out for that would be rad. Thanks again for the Vids
Half way through video while writing this...I usually do brazing first and leave vacuum running while I wire, connect, level and seal everything. Personal preference. Great stuff though, Nothing like a 1-person change out 😎!
you can take the screw off thats holding the liquid service valve in place underneath the valve. That would give you some extra wiggle space to get your shredder tool in there, then replace it when its done. Also way to close to the wall there for future servicing. other then that super clean work good job !
Great video and job Zach. The reason the run tru has happened (FYI it’s everywhere not just Tennessee) Ameristar is owned by Ingersoll Rand not Trane. Ameristar was not Trane made (Except the gas furnace) it’s made in China. Trane cut ties with Ingersoll Rand at the 1st of the year. So they now make Run Tru with is made by Trane.
I didn’t know that. I was told at Trane that the American Standard vendors would still carry Ameristar, I guess that makes sense now. Thx for the info John!
I just bought (May 2021) a Trane Heat Pump Electric and can't believe how loud mine is, I had 2 Tranes before which were great. I like the flat piece you put under the outside unit. Mine was installed with 4 cheap cup looking deals at each corner. I was not impressed and have been treated fine, but they cannot get rid of the loudness except an idea of covering the suspected reason, I believe he said the compressor It was the part beneath the fan motor. I don't want a cover up, I want a fix.
If the unit was further from the wall there would have been slack in the liquid line and you could possibly unbolt the service valve and pull it out to get the shrader tool on it.
Its not too close by manufacturer recommended clearances typically allowing 1 side to be 6" if the rest are 12". Personally, I think the more room the better if you don't have some other constraint you're dealing with, as I don't want to waste time messing around because things are so tight.
Like your clean installs, make it easier for future servicing work. Would recommend when fitting the condensate pipe into pump body to cut a 45 degree angle at the end to reduce possibility of blockage by sludge accumulation.
Super dope man! You did an outstanding job all by yourself. You make it look so easy. I remember when I first started I was with a group of 3 and boy did we struggle.
You can’t run two different voltages in the same conduit, the liquid tight with power and control wire, the magnetic field of the power wire could induce a voltage in the control wire, just a heads up
andrew mcdonald ... calm down... he ain’t got not freq drives or nothing fancy on there... it’ll be fine. He did a great job compared to the installs I run into.
RunTru condensers have one screw at the bottom of the liquid line service valve that you can easily remove and pull the valve out enough to put a core removal tool onto it.
Great quality. Loved the epic rock in the beginning man. I’ve been seriously considering the electrical trade for some time. Might’ve just found a good group of HVACrs to sign up with and finally get out of my transitional job. Wish me luck!
If the unit wasn’t so close to the house it may have been easier and for future service of the electrical components. In Florida it must be 18” away from structure.
I dont know if you carry those valve caps that have the sharder core removal on the top.of the cap I always carry those in if I run into that tight situation
That only works when there’s not refrigerant in the system. I was able to remove the core with a normal core remover but not with a tool is designed to remove the core when it’s under pressure.
@@QualityHVACR I've run into that on some older units. Watching your videos and thinking. What if you just put a swivel tee on the service port and just left it? I know it's not ideal but it would work I think. Sucks they engineers didn't leave room. Like your videos and keep up the great work. Take care.
I carry two Schrader tools, a typical shirt-pocket screwdriver style and a short stubby one from a bike schrader set from Wal-Mart that cost like $2.99, works great. It's about 3/4" of an inch long. Had prongs that came out of it but I whacked them off with my lineman's-- I'd recommend everyone carry a short schrader tool for that exact situation.
Nice install but why is the condenser so close to the wall makes it harder to install and service down the road. I always try to stay a minimum of 12" off the wall
Nice video, thanks for sharing! Only thing I do differently is braze the equipment up first before electrical and ductwork. That way I can get a vacuum going and do the rest while the vacuum pump is running. I think the RunTru equipment looks good but you're right the service port on the liquid line is in a horrible spot. They need to fix that. Nice clean install bro
I had a Bryant central air. When it went out my HVAC contractor talked me into an Amana system. He told me it had a lifetime warranty. About 8 years later the compressor when out. He told me no problem and brought me a brand new one, no charge. I called Amana which is made by Goodman air conditioner company here in Houston and ask them if they still give lifetime warranty on their units. They said anything with a 16 SEER rating and above. They said in the future if it goes out just let the HVAC company know and they will replace the unit FREE ! You can't beat a deal like that.
Thanks a lot. Just had a 2.5 ton unit (RunTru) installed. Seems to be pretty nice so far. SOOO much quieter than my old 2004 unit was. I'm hoping to see some savings on the electric bill, too, as the old unit hasn't functioned well for years! Air inside is a LOT colder coming out of the vents. They paired it with a RunTru airhandler/heater.
1.) 16" is a little close on CFM for return of a 3ton. 2.) Why not seal that sound line with duct sealant to no have fibers in airstream and get into coil. As it seems the filter is in a grille(s) 3.) Why not just run new copper? It was a short run and were the old joints silver solder staybrite 8? 4.) WAY to close to house.. what a nightmare to get those back screws off (if they were put on). And for servicing to clean the coils. Those coils need low pressure water not to destroy the christmas tree design. 5.) When brazing you should have wrapped the valves in cold rags. Braze with oxygen/acetylene. This would have helped prevent burning up that Schrader core as it takes less time to get the copper hot and keeps the flame more centralized. You could have removed that core with a supply house screwdriver. United Refrigeration gives them out for free.
What are the best gloves to wear for hvac I did a job the other day on a residential home, I was checking the low and high pressure I guess I wasn’t fast enough to put on the gauges it took me 2 times but the Freon was shooting out and it left me some good size blisters the next day...I was wondering if u can recommend a good pair...
Is the outdoor AC unit to close to the house? Will it be better for the unit to be about 4 more inch away from the wall? So in the future when you have to work on the AC you will have more room to work? Also what is the standard width away for unit and home, if there is.
The National Electrical Code doesn’t allow line voltage and low voltage cables to be run in the same conduit. Also not allowed to be run in the same hole in wood framing.
Yup. They fuck over here in Florida to. Here you can’t ever run them inside the cabinet trough the same hole. Has to be 2 different penetrations but it actually makes sense.
Lennox did the same thing with their liquid line valves. It sucks but nothing a 90* low loss fitting can't help. But it sucks if the cores leak. Love the videos
Schrader valve access / replacement - there is a 5/16th bolt the holds both lines in place, remove the bolt and simply pull up on the line = easy access.
I just installed a run true for the first time 2 weeks ago and the unit did not come pre charged I just wanted to know if that happened to you. I had to charge all the refrigerant into it. Unit still work perfectly fine and there were no leaks but it just did it come charged which was weird.
You could have unbolted that valve and flexed the liquid line to temporary give you clearance to use core removal tool. Also, that panel should be removable, you might have to take off the top with fan motor, but sure beats recovery. Also, that is way to close to wall for the condenser to breathe. 6 months later the back of condenser will be coated with dust. More clearance would make it easy to work on in regards to cleaning the coil, leak detection/repair, and changing contactor/capacitor/electrical diagnostics.
I install the same unit . and I didn't had the problem with the Schrader valve remover..the trick about installing unit on the rain just add valves by the evaporater..
I would've install a filter inlet just off the air handler to reduce internal static pressure on the return side, then customer could option for higher merv filter
Great job but I would honestly put a uv light in there due to the insulated coffin box mold likes to build up after years thats what id do a little different
Man, I just installed a run tru with a ,5kw heat strip kit that was plug n play BUT i cannot figure out where my thermostat (heat) wire connects to the handler. The manual says its a white or pink wire in the air handler that connects to the white thermostat wire. Any thoughts?
@qualityHVACR just installed my first one the other day and noticed that it was one of the most quiet units also! Good install and that liquid line a schrader sucks
I hope you can help me. I have a run tru heat pump system and the defrost sensor was laying in the bottom of the unit with a clamp on it. Would you know where it is suppose to clamp at?
Pro tip, they do have small schreader tool removers. The old Lennox’s were like that. If you don’t remove the schreader well brazing you’ll always have it leak.
Daikin does the same thing, I can't even get my low loss fittings on. I found a Schrader leaking and just tightened it but may have to replace it but can't get a core remover in the tight space. Darn engineers !!
Zach another outstanding job. I like how meticulous you are on your jobs. You're a class act. Thanks again for another great video.
Thx Anthony! That’s means a lot. I really appreciate your feedback.
Someone call the county Inspector. Most likely he did not pull a permit for that installment, as there is no way in hell that outdoor unit will pass to code. Or he failed it, then he did not list a video going back for being a idiot.
😂 call the county inspector? Quality HVACR must be a competitor in your area.
@@CryptoAbe Never run line and low voltage wire in the same raceway or conduit!
@@HVACToolReview lmao no. Sent Video to Tennessee contractors board with license number 70694. I hope he pulled a permit cause that is evidence....
*Used to supplement the up stairs when it gets hot outside this works very well and **Fastly.Cool** Also works good when the upstairs gets too hot in the Winter from the heater.*
Great job. Clean and professional. The only thing I would have done differently is installed the condenser 12" to 18" away from the house to make it easier to work on and have better air flow available to condenser coil.
Exactly ! However he did a good job on installation.
I did HVAC for 30+ years you are a good mechanic... excellent job...
Black & Decker has done a good job on cooling a small area with this handy unit...I use this in a loft area all summer for good cool without the inconvenience of installing and blocking a window. Love it!
In Florida, minimum of 12 inches from wall. They do sell smaller valve core tools to remove stems. I always install service panel away from wall for easier access. Great job either way.
Besides Class 2 cable in same conduit as high voltage, clearance of condenser, and crimping suction line inlet so you can use existing 3/4" versus running new 7/8... It was clean and thanks for posting. I appreciate it ! Thanks.
Hahah botch job...oh you forgot the lack of a vent tee after the trap on an air handler that draws air through the coil
@@Clamjammer why would you put a vent tee after the p trap the p trap makes it so you dont need one
Thought I was the only person that caught the crimp
Great job my man. I'm also a one man show for 31 years now in business for myself. Started in HVAC at age 18 and now almost 57 now. Starting to burn out and body breaking down lol. I may start to sub out all my HVAC installs and just concentrate on sales and service. Take some advice if you have some tough jobs that are a two man job find a helper for the day. I installed so many HVAC systems by myself that I should have hired a helper at least for a day or two. Also look into buying or leasing a walking electric hand truck for jobs with lots of steps. Keep up the great work man. Peace \m/\m/...
coolmandude1000 I want to get into HVAC do you recommend honestly?
@@chrisv5386 I do! Long hours but very rewarding. Every day is different
Depends on the company
Seriously .... Excelent Channel, your strong for the work is very inspirational, i'm an One Man Company too, i'm a IT contractor, and i´m a network installer. Your channel helps me. You teachme a lot with your dedication and entusiasm. Sorry for my awful english
Absolute masterclass work and ethic man! Very inspiring. The only thing I’m disappointed in is my self for not finding your channel sooner! Keep the videos coming.
I admire how clean/neat you are with your work. I think that looks are very important, considering a customer spends thousands of dollars, and they don't know HVAC & all they do is see a system, neatness is what they are gonna see first.
Well said. In my mind, a neat job means attention to detail, which means equipment longevity.
3:31 The fart was epic!
🤣🤣🤣
I wondered if I just imagined I heard that or it actually happened? 🤣🤣🤣
@@FletcherRSmith I thought the same thing, but the replay confirmed it! hahahaha!~
Even his farts are EPA APPROVED 👍
@@Chele156 , Your comment was hilarious 🤣.
I like that return box idea a lot. Great, clean work man
The condenser is way too close to the wall. The installer's guide mentions the following: Position the outdoor unit a minimum of 12” from
any wall or surrounding shrubbery to ensure adequate airflow.
Im no HVAC tech, but this seems obvious to me. not sure why you would put it that close when you have a clean open space to work with.
12 " on three sides. And 6" on the last side on most if not all brands or condensers
Jeff, that was my thought exactly. I've struggled w/ tight openings before, & have even had to use my inspection mirror to check connections! That's a recipe for future problems.
Kill the shrubs. They grow and the leaves /snails / Cockroaches are a disaster waiting to happen
Keep on reading. 12" on 3 sides, and 6" on one pretty standard now. Doesn't mean I'll ever agree to put it closer if I don't have to though.
I sale American standard and Ameri Star. For several years now. I was a Ruud dealer before that. Really like the stars. They've been pretty much trouble free. Have installed gas packs, heat pump packs, split systems. Not sure what's going to happen in the near future for me. I installed two luxair ( Lennox) split HP just to see how I liked them. They seem fine and work well , but the condensers are Huge .
I’ve installed several brands over the years. Each brand doesn’t really show their faults until about a year or so later. We shall see what the future holds for RunTru.
Why not move the condenser away from the wall more for clearance? You do an amazing job. I really appreciate your love for the Hvac field.
beat me to it. Instructions say the clearances needed.
Definitely should be atleast a foot off house fir proper usage
I was thinking the same thing . Too close to the wall
It supposed to be at least 3 ft away from the wall. Isn't it ?
Agreed! At least 10-12” away from wall but other then that your jobs always look great and professional!
You should work on not using flex into the base can, layout the sheet metal so airflow is priority to keep your static pressures low.
All you SUPER KEYBOARD GANGSTER TECHNICIANS out there need to calm down... the man did a good job and is a good learning video for apprentices.... let’s see you guys take time to video your installs and see your work. This is the real world and not everything is ran 100% by the book. All of you techs already know this u just wanna sound smart
Agreed Jimmy P. I have been reading the comments from all of the "Freon Leon" magnetic sign guys that think they know everything. These are the same guys that undersell good companies by thousands of dollars and ruin HVAC pricing. Good video though.
Know exactly how u feel. I once had to do an install on my own and was all done ready to leave by 4:00.............. compressor was dead on arrival. 😓
Unscrew the king valves next time to save yourself some time. Move that condenser unit away from the wall to allow easier service and proper airflow through outdoor coil.
Chris Lopez ... service valves ... not king valves. I’m a refrigeration tech so don’t mind me we are all anal
@@jimmyp5487 😂😂😂
@@jimmyp5487 i was lost went he wrote KING lmao
I work on Lennox's all the time and have to deal with that. Luckily you can pop off the 2 screws holding the service valves and yank em out alittle to put a core tool on.
Hidden Resolve. True or remove valve core with a basic screwdriver style core remover and replace it at about 5 psi.
Or lift the unit sit it on a brick to gain access
Nice attention to detail, that is really nice to see....why wait until near the end to braze, test and vacuum? Seems like a lot of time wasted...And the condensing unit so close to the wall?
Looks too close to wall, outside unit
No, the previous outdoor unit was too close. There's at least 6" on the new one if you look at the scale of things in the video when he's vaccing down. Most paperwork allows 1 side to be 6" if the rest are 12".
@@aquattadomdren6760 I mean to me I think that's a little close man. It makes everything a little bit more difficult to access. Its so easy to service a unit with space. Especially when you have room like that.
Stephen Collins oh believe me man, I always give myself more room when I can. I’m not justifying the decision here since it doesn’t look to me like their are property line issues or anything like that otherwise. I’m just saying that it is fine per manufacturer’s specs. I definitely agree it’s a lot more conducive to work on when you have more room.
Ive had this set about one year. Replaced Carrier unit that was 14 years old. Sized the same.
My only complaints are the heat pump is noisy. The fan is loud and there is a very distinct "compressor type sound" on a resonant frequency (for lack of a better explanation) that can be heard from inside the house, but not so much outside.
The other is when temps get very cold outside it can't even keep up with 70°
12° outside. Currently 65°.
I dont remember this happening with the old unit.
But I cant swear it that it didn't.
Some areas of the fins never seem to defrost.
We bought it because it was the cheapest. Ive spent more time 2nd guessing the decision than I would like.
Those old pancake outdoor units were built very well. I still see them operating after 25 + years.
Take the 2 screws that hold the service valve in place and that will allow it to move to one side enough to use the core remover.
This is the same comment that I was going to make. Taking the mounting screws out of the service valve to move it around enough to get a core removal tool on is a trick I use from time to time.
@@UnconsciousCompetence I second that
Thank you for the most unexpected laugh of 2020 with the fart😂😂
😁
Very nice work. Clean and very neat. We live in Beaverton Oregon and had a Bryant 4-Ton Preferred Series 15 SEER Heat Pump installed. The installer "forgot" his Tubing bender so bent the 7/8" copper line-set by hand which oval-shaped the copper. Then since he couldn't do a sharp bend, he brazed right-angle copper fittings at the Condenser and Evaporator. Wondered what this does to refrigerant flow characteristics? I also caught him brazing without using Nitrogen. Line-set inside the Garage runs straight across the floor where we walk. We wanted to fire him on the spot but it was 100 degrees outside and wanted House cooled. My bad. Then I noticed no Filter Dryer. Called Company and they said there is one inside the outdoor unit. There seems to be one. We called Bryant/Carrier and they said absolutely need a 5-Ton Filter Dryer installed. It gets worse! We tried the Heat Pump over the winter and when it powerup up, the Condenser made a terrible noise so we switched back to Natural Gas. Called the installer Company and he said "You have no business using a Heat Pump in Oregon". Natural Gas is so much cheaper. So why is it sounding bad in Heat Pump mode? He said 'because I took out the Orifice on the Condenser and your flooding the Compressor - so you can't use the Heat Pump. So why did you sell us a Heat Pump and wire the Stat to have EM to enable the Heat Pump? No reply. Being very pissed off, I bought a Master Cool 5CFM dual-stage Vacuum Pump. I found the Orifice size I needed in the installers manual. I sucked all the Refrigerant into the Condenser, closed the service valves and disconnected the high-side line 3/8"? and installed the Orifice. Vacuumed the line-set down and let her rip.
The System is working OK but still don't have a Dryer installed in the Line-set. We really got screwed but thankfully, it is still working.
Wish we could have found someone like you to do the install. People are nuts here. Maybe it is Covid Brain?
If you ever want to change out your schrader valve without having to recover the refrigerant, you can always pump the refrigerant back into the outdoor unit. If you shut your liquid line service valve all the way and hook up your gauges then you can slightly close off your suction side service valve. While holding in your contactor (in a/c mode obviously) you will be able to watch your suction pressure drop down to zero. Once it gets close to zero you can start shutting your service valve as quickly as possible and all of your refrigerant will be back in the outdoor unit just like it was when you originally installed it. At this point you can just change out your schrader valve and pull your vacuum. Then your ready to open up your service valves and fire it up.
He didn’t release the charge yet so all refrigerant already packed in condenser. He weighed in refrigerant so he had to recover what he weighed in which was 24oz.
Disconnect box directly behind Heat Pump, against code, Way too close to house. Sucks for next service tech that has to work on this.
Good Call. I guess they don't have to pull a permit or have any inspections.
Unit is too close to the wall! Never run line and low voltage wire in the same raceway!
This is a response to my response I didn't notice your statement until after I read the comments but we are on the same page with the low voltage and high voltage being adjacent
way too close. although i wouldn't do it, you can run different voltage wires in the same conduit provided the wire sheathing have the same rating.
It is to close to the house. Not hating on you. Not only is it restricting the coil, you made it difficult to service. And thats bs that they only put enough in for ten foot of line set.
Beat me to it
This man does nice work, but I agree with both comments above..unit was too close and usually you don’t want to mix voltages in the same conduit.
That run thru air handler looks IDENTICAL to a Trane TEM4 unit I just installed, Inside and out. Minus some extra controls and fan motor.
Holy Smokes fantastic workmanship
Thx! 🤓 I really appreciate that!!
Im heading into 2nd year in hvac Im in Canada. I have been on construction building vrf systems but haven't done much service so watching vids help. If there is a chance to explain stuff like tips and what to watch out for that would be rad. Thanks again for the Vids
Half way through video while writing this...I usually do brazing first and leave vacuum running while I wire, connect, level and seal everything. Personal preference. Great stuff though, Nothing like a 1-person change out 😎!
you can take the screw off thats holding the liquid service valve in place underneath the valve. That would give you some extra wiggle space to get your shredder tool in there, then replace it when its done. Also way to close to the wall there for future servicing. other then that super clean work good job !
Great video and job Zach. The reason the run tru has happened (FYI it’s everywhere not just Tennessee) Ameristar is owned by Ingersoll Rand not Trane. Ameristar was not Trane made (Except the gas furnace) it’s made in China. Trane cut ties with Ingersoll Rand at the 1st of the year. So they now make Run Tru with is made by Trane.
I didn’t know that. I was told at Trane that the American Standard vendors would still carry Ameristar, I guess that makes sense now. Thx for the info John!
I just bought (May 2021) a Trane Heat Pump Electric and can't believe how loud mine is, I had 2 Tranes before which were great. I like the flat piece you put under the outside unit. Mine was installed with 4 cheap cup looking deals at each corner. I was not impressed and have been treated fine, but they cannot get rid of the loudness except an idea of covering the suspected reason, I believe he said the compressor It was the part beneath the fan motor. I don't want a cover up, I want a fix.
Come on man. That condensing unit is too close to the wall. I'm kinda glad you had a hard time with that schrader.
If the unit was further from the wall there would have been slack in the liquid line and you could possibly unbolt the service valve and pull it out to get the shrader tool on it.
Its not too close by manufacturer recommended clearances typically allowing 1 side to be 6" if the rest are 12". Personally, I think the more room the better if you don't have some other constraint you're dealing with, as I don't want to waste time messing around because things are so tight.
Yes sir, trane is in Georgia, few minutes away from metter ga,
Great job, perfect and very clean work,
I love how neat and complete you work.
Like your clean installs, make it easier for future servicing work. Would recommend when fitting the condensate pipe into pump body to cut a 45 degree angle at the end to reduce possibility of blockage by sludge accumulation.
Clean install. Around my place I don't think you can run the high voltage and low voltage in the same conduit.
Hey just following up if you have any update on if the Run Tru AC/Furnace are still working well?
Super dope man! You did an outstanding job all by yourself. You make it look so easy. I remember when I first started I was with a group of 3 and boy did we struggle.
You can’t run two different voltages in the same conduit, the liquid tight with power and control wire, the magnetic field of the power wire could induce a voltage in the control wire, just a heads up
I've done it during my whole 28 years in the trade with no issues. Tens of thousands of others are the same way.
Richard Futch I have had contacters pull in without a call due to this problem
They will fail a job here for running low voltage with high voltage in same conduit.
Should fail anywhere since it’s NEC.
Not if you run shielded cable.
andrew mcdonald ... calm down... he ain’t got not freq drives or nothing fancy on there... it’ll be fine. He did a great job compared to the installs I run into.
Nice work, the only thing why is the condenser too close to the wall?
First time viewer just wanted to say nice clean work and you now have a new subscriber
I would suggest picking up the Pipe Wiper system for cleaning linesets.
you can attach Schrader core tool if you remove the 5/16 screw on the bottom of the liquid line king valve
You always impress me with your training videos.
RunTru condensers have one screw at the bottom of the liquid line service valve that you can easily remove and pull the valve out enough to put a core removal tool onto it.
Great quality. Loved the epic rock in the beginning man. I’ve been seriously considering the electrical trade for some time. Might’ve just found a good group of HVACrs to sign up with and finally get out of my transitional job. Wish me luck!
man that was a very nice install awesome quality job about the core I was in the same position few months ago that make so mad but you learn from that
If the unit wasn’t so close to the house it may have been easier and for future service of the electrical components. In Florida it must be 18” away from structure.
Better then amerishit. It has the spine fine coil and an alliance compressor. Seems pretty solid. Saw one today.
Ulises Palacios Than*
joseph migliore thanks lol.
Ulises Palacios Ameristar will be the same unit as of 2021.
I dont know if you carry those valve caps that have the sharder core removal on the top.of the cap I always carry those in if I run into that tight situation
That only works when there’s not refrigerant in the system. I was able to remove the core with a normal core remover but not with a tool is designed to remove the core when it’s under pressure.
@@QualityHVACR I've run into that on some older units. Watching your videos and thinking. What if you just put a swivel tee on the service port and just left it? I know it's not ideal but it would work I think. Sucks they engineers didn't leave room. Like your videos and keep up the great work. Take care.
I carry two Schrader tools, a typical shirt-pocket screwdriver style and a short stubby one from a bike schrader set from Wal-Mart that cost like $2.99, works great. It's about 3/4" of an inch long. Had prongs that came out of it but I whacked them off with my lineman's-- I'd recommend everyone carry a short schrader tool for that exact situation.
Nice install but why is the condenser so close to the wall makes it harder to install and service down the road. I always try to stay a minimum of 12" off the wall
We actually going to start installing those over here in Texas. Thanks for the video.
Right on! Let me know how it goes.
Nice video, thanks for sharing! Only thing I do differently is braze the equipment up first before electrical and ductwork. That way I can get a vacuum going and do the rest while the vacuum pump is running. I think the RunTru equipment looks good but you're right the service port on the liquid line is in a horrible spot. They need to fix that. Nice clean install bro
Yea that’s a good idea. Luckily with my evacuation set up, it doesn’t take very long. Thx for the feedback!
I had a Bryant central air. When it went out my HVAC contractor talked me into an Amana system. He told me it had a lifetime warranty. About 8 years later the compressor when out. He told me no problem and brought me a brand new one, no charge.
I called Amana which is made by Goodman air conditioner company here in Houston and ask them if they still give lifetime warranty on their units. They said anything with a 16 SEER rating and above.
They said in the future if it goes out just let the HVAC company know and they will replace the unit FREE !
You can't beat a deal like that.
Thanks a lot. Just had a 2.5 ton unit (RunTru) installed. Seems to be pretty nice so far. SOOO much quieter than my old 2004 unit was. I'm hoping to see some savings on the electric bill, too, as the old unit hasn't functioned well for years! Air inside is a LOT colder coming out of the vents. They paired it with a RunTru airhandler/heater.
So you still like it , how do it hold up in winter
@@DR-um2bv Great so far.
That's a very nice clean job! Still someone someday will open that up and shoulda done this or that this way etc.
1.) 16" is a little close on CFM for return of a 3ton.
2.) Why not seal that sound line with duct sealant to no have fibers in airstream and get into coil. As it seems the filter is in a grille(s)
3.) Why not just run new copper? It was a short run and were the old joints silver solder staybrite 8?
4.) WAY to close to house.. what a nightmare to get those back screws off (if they were put on). And for servicing to clean the coils. Those coils need low pressure water not to destroy the christmas tree design.
5.) When brazing you should have wrapped the valves in cold rags. Braze with oxygen/acetylene. This would have helped prevent burning up that Schrader core as it takes less time to get the copper hot and keeps the flame more centralized. You could have removed that core with a supply house screwdriver. United Refrigeration gives them out for free.
FLY EAGLES FLY Bleed Green ... holy shit man you will shut down a business with your ass working there
Damn pornhub doesn’t even get this anal
16" is fine
Just curious as to why you didnt run a complete new line set?
Code violation to run high and low voltage in seal tight together like that.
Exactly
A few common mistakes but I love the work you done.
Looks like I spied FieldPiece joblink probes sitting on the porch. If so, have you looked at MeasureQuick?
What are the best gloves to wear for hvac I did a job the other day on a residential home, I was checking the low and high pressure I guess I wasn’t fast enough to put on the gauges it took me 2 times but the Freon was shooting out and it left me some good size blisters the next day...I was wondering if u can recommend a good pair...
Give us an update in the spring time as to how the unit is running!
Is the outdoor AC unit to close to the house? Will it be better for the unit to be about 4 more inch away from the wall? So in the future when you have to work on the AC you will have more room to work? Also what is the standard width away for unit and home, if there is.
Nice work just 1 observation.. not sure running romex in sealtight...is correct, but I agree it LOOKS much neater!
I heard your booster fire up when you lifted the furnace to place it on the return plenum . Nice change out.
🤣 Thx man!
The National Electrical Code doesn’t allow line voltage and low voltage cables to be run in the same conduit. Also not allowed to be run in the same hole in wood framing.
Great video! A true professional!
Our company is a Trane dealership, been using Ameristar haven’t seen the new brand yet. Looks like a decent unit. Great video. 👍
Thx William! I feel like at its price point, it’s a great entry level machine.
The best part is when you push the airhandler under the plenum it you cut it perfect.. most satisfying moment
My Inspectors would have my ass if I sleeved Hi and low voltage in the same conduit unless that thermostat wire was 600v rated.
Leave tstat wire out of seal tight
Yup. They fuck over here in Florida to. Here you can’t ever run them inside the cabinet trough the same hole. Has to be 2 different penetrations but it actually makes sense.
In Oregon that wouldn't pass inspection at all. Low voltage and high voltage cannot be in the same conduit.
You guys in the midwest and east coast have it easy on replacements. Here in California most furnaces are in 20-24" closets. Good work on video
Lennox did the same thing with their liquid line valves. It sucks but nothing a 90* low loss fitting can't help. But it sucks if the cores leak. Love the videos
Schrader valve access / replacement - there is a 5/16th bolt the holds both lines in place, remove the bolt and simply pull up on the line = easy access.
I got one I use for tires that's 1/2" long.
I don't know if I was seeing things or what but looked like that squirrel cage housing was all blown out. Whats up with that?
I just installed a run true for the first time 2 weeks ago and the unit did not come pre charged I just wanted to know if that happened to you. I had to charge all the refrigerant into it. Unit still work perfectly fine and there were no leaks but it just did it come charged which was weird.
Line voltage and low voltage in the same conduit? Hmmm. No bueno.
Unless its a communicating system itll be fine. And even then all you need is shielded low voltage wire
If only i could have an easy, spacious garage for all my upflow installs.and damn that condenser is close to that wall.
Yes and condenser is to close to home , anchor per windstorm code ??? Question on armor flex insulation on copper line 1/2 or 1 inch thick is code????
You could have unbolted that valve and flexed the liquid line to temporary give you clearance to use core removal tool. Also, that panel should be removable, you might have to take off the top with fan motor, but sure beats recovery.
Also, that is way to close to wall for the condenser to breathe. 6 months later the back of condenser will be coated with dust. More clearance would make it easy to work on in regards to cleaning the coil, leak detection/repair, and changing contactor/capacitor/electrical diagnostics.
Very clean and professional work. Good job sir! Forgot to spray the basement with some scented air sanitizer.
I install the same unit . and I didn't had the problem with the Schrader valve remover..the trick about installing unit on the rain just add valves by the evaporater..
The heat pump should be up on “pop up legs” (snow legs), to drain. Where’s the air filter?
Yes where was the filter?
Also keeps the dogs from pis sing on the condenser
I would've install a filter inlet just off the air handler to reduce internal static pressure on the return side, then customer could option for higher merv filter
@@kytepc8632 Wow! Good point! I forgot about the dogs!!
Great job but I would honestly put a uv light in there due to the insulated coffin box mold likes to build up after years thats what id do a little different
Man, I just installed a run tru with a ,5kw heat strip kit that was plug n play BUT i cannot figure out where my thermostat (heat) wire connects to the handler.
The manual says its a white or pink wire in the air handler that connects to the white thermostat wire.
Any thoughts?
Put one of these in over the summer, they were quiet, cheap price, and overall a great budget a/c
@qualityHVACR just installed my first one the other day and noticed that it was one of the most quiet units also! Good install and that liquid line a schrader sucks
Why did you instal the outside unit so close to the house like that?
I was told in HVAC school that you are against code if you run 24v stat wire in same conduit as 120v wire?
True. There are exceptions, but the short answer is regular Class-2 thermostat wire cannot be in the same conduit/fitting/box.
i would have set that unit out from the house about 18 inches
I hope you can help me. I have a run tru heat pump system and the defrost sensor was laying in the bottom of the unit with a clamp on it. Would you know where it is suppose to clamp at?
Pro tip, they do have small schreader tool removers. The old Lennox’s were like that. If you don’t remove the schreader well brazing you’ll always have it leak.
It was removed when brazing, the problem is trying to remove the core when under pressure.
Dumb question may been asked. But do you put a separate disconnect box for the air handler itself?
Daikin does the same thing, I can't even get my low loss fittings on. I found a Schrader leaking and just tightened it but may have to replace it but can't get a core remover in the tight space. Darn engineers !!