Thank you so much. After watching the video, I'm looking forward to, as opposed to the opposite for my fork oil service. Just a tad more complex than a motor oil change. Thank you for taking the time to lay it out for everyone to see.
Im about to go into surgery in the next 30 minutes for a broken collarbone requiring a steel plate with screws. A bit nervous and anxious waiting for the docs. These videos help me so much, his voice is so calming and interesting to listen too. Its so soothing watching the great camera angles, qualiy, and techniques he uses and calms down my mind and I get to learn something new. Really great content man you dont realize how much youre appreciated!
@@TokyoOffroad just curious did you have the same procedure done on your collarbone? If so how long did you have the plate in before they took it out.. or is it still in?
@@ryanrussell3893 - No, I should've been more specific. I broke my back 6 years ago and had to have surgery which involved fusing 3 vertebrae together using 6 screws and 2 rods. A year after the surgery I had all the metalwork removed. Hope you're doing OK...
Awesome video! With my motion pro fork wrench I had to remove the handlebars and mounts for it to fit. Looks like you have bar risers and a different wrench so that wasn’t an issue for you. Excellent video, really appreciate the quality!
Great video as always. 👌👌Very clever to cut the 32 socket to make the special tool because you can use the newton meter👌👌. in 25:32 I hope not to forget the plastic spacer...🙏
Hi Mark, Fantastic video as always! You have inspired so many of us enduro enthusiasts to have a go at doing most of our bike maintenance / services ourselves, saves us alot of money and gives us the confidence of having a job done right - takes the worry out of having no short cuts taken by a sloppy mechanic in a workshop. I really appreciate the detail you put in to making these videos showing us step by step how to service certain parts of the bike. Say at 8:00 - 8:10 you mentioned about a Spacer ..... I didn't see where this was meant to go on the reassembly ...... could you please kindly advise where & when the assembly this spacer should go?
Thanks and pleased that you find the videos useful. The spacer(s) go at the bottom of the spring. When reassembling put the spacer(s) in first then the spring. If using different springs (heavier, or lighter) always measure the length of the new springs and adjust the total length by adding, or taking out spacers. The spacers can also be used to adjust the amount of preload if desired.
@@TokyoOffroad Mark, great video. In regards to these spring spacers… I’m servicing XPLOR 48’s on a 2017 Husqvarna FE450. Dissembled them today. There was a spring spacer below the spring on the right fork tube, but there is not one on the left fork spring (Left/right being from riders POV. Left side = brake disc side.) Is this normal? Cause for concern? I am certain this is the first time the forks have been opened up, also QUITE certain it didn’t get misplaced during fork disassembly today, clean/sterile shop, nowhere for it to go. Thank you!!! I am also moving up two sizes in springs, heavier weight springs. They are VERY similar in overall length to the factory springs. New ones are only very slightly longer, if at all. Should I be concerned w/ that at all!? Any input here is appreciated!! Cheers!
Very nice clean shop and setup. Always appreciate your videos and knowledge. Planning to do a rebuild of my forks soon. May end up dropping in a cartridge kit tho. Decisions decisions....
Great video as always. I always get a kick out of your garage with the poured concrete walls, I think to myself" is he in a bunker?". That's one stout garage!:)
The whole house (3 levels) is steel reinforced concrete. Each floor (ceiling and walls) was poured in one go. External walls are 27cm thick and internal walls are 18cm thick. A huge amount of steel rebar was used. Japan has many earthquakes and the house has stood up great to them so far with no cracks, including the big one in 2011. The garage floor has no windows and is underground on 3 sides, so does feel a bit like a bunker...
Thank you for the tips with 32 mm socket, it went perfectly. I have another question regarding the left forck, the compression side, the spindle is travel fast after bleeding air from oil tube, is this ok?
My rebound side went smooth, but the compression side not so good. The damper rod just falls down quick, I cannot figure out how to get the spring installed. What am I doing wrong?
I’m sure you figured something out, but you can grab the upper part of the damper rod with a pair of pliers (take care not to scratch the rod) through the coils of the spring, then spin the spring and the pliers and rod will pull up towards the top of the spring, grab the top of the rod when it pokes out of the top of the coil spring.
I recommend purchasing the KTM repair manual. It includes details regarding overhauling the suspension. This video shows where you can purchase it from: th-cam.com/video/F1LddyYoP0Q/w-d-xo.html
How can I purge the rear shock absorber wp manually? Without any vacuum device, explain it to me in detail, please, I await your clarification, greetings.
When you bleed the cartridge you should have the adjustment rod in and lightly compressed using the correct tool, the way you have done it allows oil to reach the piston rod
Thank you, very helpful. If my seal is good and all i want to do is change oil, can i just add new oil once i have removed the top cap and bottom nut and have emptied all the oil? Or do you suggest changing the seal even if there were no leaks? Thx
No, you don't need to change the seals if they are good. Yes, just remove the cartridge and clean everything. Then re-assemble and set your oil height.
@@TokyoOffroadthank you. Any good online store to buy all the tools that i need for my xplor closed cartridge 48mm forks? Or just go to motion pro. Thanks again
Thanks for the video! Question, I have the same forks as in your video, I accidentally bought Maxima 5W fork oil instead of Motorex 4W. Will the added oil weight make a big deal and really change the characteristics of the forks? Thx!
I don't think you'll notice a big difference. My advice is to try it and see how it rides. You can try softening the adjusters if you find it too firm.
Where do you find the air gap dimension for your forks? I know you said 110mm for the one on the video. The manual only talk in ml and not air gap. I have the tool and ready to do my forks but only know to use ml and not the air gap. I read online the rule of thumb is 110-120 mm air gap. Thanks in advance.
For anyone that doesn’t have the fork level measuring tool I just marked a small piece of wooden doweling at 110 mm and holding the mark flush with the top of the fork filled it till the level was touching the doweling.
@@TokyoOffroad thank you :) how large of an air gap have you run? My forks were around 120mm when I pulled them apart. Thinking of going 140ml to soften it up as I found mine really stiff
There are 3 holes in the lower fork tube. These allow air and oil to easily pass from the gap between the lower and outer tubes as the fork moves through it's stroke.
I purchased the one in the video almost 30 years ago. I'm sure similar ones are available though. Whatever you get be sure to check that it fits 48mm tubes...
Thank you Mark, i have an universal driver but still can't put the oil seal in correct position and finaly it is starting to brush it...cracking a bit. In the video you told to put a bit of silicone grease on the seals, but thats ok? because if one put grease on the oil seal, that will pollute the fork oil or not?? there are some people that recomends vaseline.....that will be ok also? why not to use the same oil for the fork. regards!@@TokyoOffroad
@@brunopassalacqua1828 - Yes, fork oil is fine to use to lubricate your seals before installing them. I do like a small amount of silicone grease though on most seals and o-rings I install. Silicone grease doesn't cause seals to swell, is an excellent lubricant helping prevent damage (tearing) during install, will help prevent water entry and is non toxic. I smear a small amount on the lip of the seal and remove any excess.
Noted, yes I'll make a video which shows my start-up procedure. The method I use is if it's cold I engage the choke, start the engine and using the throttle increase the rpm to an elevated idle and switch off the choke. I then maintain a constant elevated idle until the engine is warm. Once warm I start riding, initially not revving out. When I feel the engine is up to temp I start accelerating to higher rpm (on the pipe). I have a Trail Tech digital fan with a temp display on my bike so it makes it easy to monitor how the bike is warming up. If you don't have a temp display you can touch the pipe and feel how warm it is getting. Using this method I feel it minimizes engine damage and also reduces the chances of fouling a plug. Anyway I'll make a video soon showing all this.
@@TokyoOffroad my friend revs his two stroke yz125 to high rpms within the first one minute of cold starting it, what specifically should i tell him do you think?
@@ryanrussell3893 - I'm not a fan of doing that. I think by doing that you accelerate wear (requiring more frequent top end overhauls) and also are far more likely to cold seize the engine. When warming up the engine the piston will typically expand faster than the cylinder bore, thus reducing clearance. This issue can be minimized by warming the engine up slowly. IMO the worst thing you can do is rev the engine hard just after start-up...
@@TokyoOffroad I am speaking of the xplor left side fork with the adjustable fixed office mid valve. Are you saying it will feel the same as the more traditional right side fork? Thank you for your reply much appreciated.
@@TokyoOffroadI am having the same issue. Been stroking it like 100 times but still just drops unlike the rebound that only took 5 strokes. Not sure what to do.
Hello Tokyo. I have then same model and today i switch my fork oil. I only use 50mm wrench and now my clickers don't stop rotating. It's possible that i broke them? Any solution. Best regards
Possibly the caps are not installed correctly on the damper rods so I would check that first. Before installing the caps on the cartridges it's important to turn the spring guides down, or the caps may sit too high on the rods and not engage properly on the valve adjuster rod. As such my suggestion is to remove the cap, remove the spring, fully wind down the cartridge spring guide as far as it will go, install the spring, install the cap on to the cartridge and check whether the adjuster works correctly.
The tool is made by Unit. If you have trouble finding it I do sell them on the Tokyo Offroad webshop here: www.tokyooffroad.com/product/fork-dust-seal-removal-tool/
@@TokyoOffroad ok then, i just wondering. After I change seal my compression stiffens. I followed your tutorial. I used 5w, 600ml oil..what do you think went wrong?thank you for ypur answer
What age bike your ktm? Just wondering if the air gap is correct for my te250i 2020 husqvarna. I put a volume of oil in as recommended by the manual buy would prefer to set the air gap, just not sure if 110 is correct...?
It’s a model year 2017. Typically the air gap for these forks is set between 100~110mm. You could set it to 110mm, test it and if you feel you want to increase the stiffness of the last part of the travel add some more oil to bring it up to 100mm.
Hey great vids😉 perhaps you can help. I have a 2020 300 TPI with 40hrs on it, its been a motard from brand new just a couple months ago. About 3 weeks ago I had the ECU flashed and installed a higher compression head. The transformation was nothing short of a miracle, It was as smooth as a four stroke but with the punch of a two stroke. There was simply no more stutter, it was a dream come true and changed my life... have I talked it up enough? THEN I jumped on it couple days ago and it wouldn't idle it was spitting black oil out the pipe, running rough (excessive 2T splutter) in the lower revs. I contacted the place that did the tune and made the hi comp head and he said it could be 1. a faulty temp or crank pressure sensor or 2. possibly need a top end rebuild but unlikely at 40hrs. I put it into the dealer and everything checked out fine. It did however have a gummy crank pressure sensor pipe which they cleaned. They gave me the bike back and said it was fine... its not at all, nothing like it was after the tune and head install. Still runs rough, has a low idle and flames out, not good when you've lane filtered and want a spirited takeoff from the traffic at lights. Any ideas???? Thanks........ 😊
Sorry to hear about the problem. You mentioned that it's currently not running well at lower RPM. But how about higher RPM. Does it rev out and run normally at high RPM?
On the 2018 and 2019 models the oil is filled at a min of 632ml & max of 652ml, also you don't do the oil height adjustment as it was done on the 2017 models.
Yes, after 2017 an air gap spec is not published. But even so I think measuring and adjusting the air gap is a better method than adding a set volume of oil.
@@TokyoOffroad I agree it makes it more accurate but since the manual only states a min & max of oil level, you would have to invent it your self. Also I think that since there is a difference of 20ml from min to max oil level maybe there is no need to be that accurate ?
@@stone4858 Yes, my recommendation would be to set the air gap to a reference level (E.g. 100mm) and see how it feels. If it feels too hard on full compression you can increase the air gap (to 110mm for example), or if it feels too soft you reduce (to 90mm for example). With only oil volume it makes it very difficult to make these adjustments...
ive tried using a "seal mate" on a fork seal of a 4cs fork with no luck and ended up trying a "rhino seal doctor" has a seal cleaner and dust seal cleaner on the bottom and designed to catch the dirt as you rotate it and pull it out
I have a Seal Doctor tool too and used it successfully. I'd say the Seal Doctor is a little easier to use than the Seal Mate, although the cost is higher and either tool can be used successfully to clean dirt out. I think the key to cleaning the seals with such tools is to do it as soon as possible and do it very carefully. It you wait and continue to ride with leaking seals they are much more likely to become damaged.
Thank you so much. After watching the video, I'm looking forward to, as opposed to the opposite for my fork oil service. Just a tad more complex than a motor oil change. Thank you for taking the time to lay it out for everyone to see.
Pleased to hear that you found the video useful and has inspired some confidence.
Riding an adventure bike in Korea
This is the best video for self-repair of suspension. Thank you.
Im about to go into surgery in the next 30 minutes for a broken collarbone requiring a steel plate with screws. A bit nervous and anxious waiting for the docs. These videos help me so much, his voice is so calming and interesting to listen too. Its so soothing watching the great camera angles, qualiy, and techniques he uses and calms down my mind and I get to learn something new. Really great content man you dont realize how much youre appreciated!
Hope your surgery goes well. I've been there so know how it feels... Pleased that you enjoy the videos and hope that you can get back out riding soon.
@@TokyoOffroad just curious did you have the same procedure done on your collarbone? If so how long did you have the plate in before they took it out.. or is it still in?
@@ryanrussell3893 - No, I should've been more specific. I broke my back 6 years ago and had to have surgery which involved fusing 3 vertebrae together using 6 screws and 2 rods. A year after the surgery I had all the metalwork removed. Hope you're doing OK...
I use an old wooden broom handle to push the rag through the tubes, much safer than a steel or alloy rod. Excellent video as usual!
I do the exact same thing!
Great video! Going to use this video when doing the dustseal and oilseal on my fork on my Ktm Exc 125!
Nice get to the point video without having to act funny like a lot of the videos keep up the good work
Great video! Now we just need a shock rebuild tutorial.
I feel like alot of expensive tooling is involved. . .idk?
@@austinschweich3092 yup. Air bleeder setup and a pressurized nitrogen rig.
Best video online for this. Thanks. You made our day. 🍺
Awesome video! With my motion pro fork wrench I had to remove the handlebars and mounts for it to fit. Looks like you have bar risers and a different wrench so that wasn’t an issue for you. Excellent video, really appreciate the quality!
I have the same EXACT issue on my new 300 XCW. I thought it was just me.
I love the slotted socket! That’s brilliant
Great video as always. 👌👌Very clever to cut the 32 socket to make the special tool because you can use the newton meter👌👌. in 25:32 I hope not to forget the plastic spacer...🙏
That dust seal tool is great. I have a few that have given me troubles!
Hi Mark,
Fantastic video as always! You have inspired so many of us enduro enthusiasts to have a go at doing most of our bike maintenance / services ourselves, saves us alot of money and gives us the confidence of having a job done right - takes the worry out of having no short cuts taken by a sloppy mechanic in a workshop. I really appreciate the detail you put in to making these videos showing us step by step how to service certain parts of the bike.
Say at 8:00 - 8:10 you mentioned about a Spacer ..... I didn't see where this was meant to go on the reassembly ...... could you please kindly advise where & when the assembly this spacer should go?
Thanks and pleased that you find the videos useful. The spacer(s) go at the bottom of the spring. When reassembling put the spacer(s) in first then the spring. If using different springs (heavier, or lighter) always measure the length of the new springs and adjust the total length by adding, or taking out spacers. The spacers can also be used to adjust the amount of preload if desired.
@@TokyoOffroad Mark, great video. In regards to these spring spacers… I’m servicing XPLOR 48’s on a 2017 Husqvarna FE450. Dissembled them today. There was a spring spacer below the spring on the right fork tube, but there is not one on the left fork spring (Left/right being from riders POV. Left side = brake disc side.) Is this normal? Cause for concern? I am certain this is the first time the forks have been opened up, also QUITE certain it didn’t get misplaced during fork disassembly today, clean/sterile shop, nowhere for it to go. Thank you!!!
I am also moving up two sizes in springs, heavier weight springs. They are VERY similar in overall length to the factory springs. New ones are only very slightly longer, if at all. Should I be concerned w/ that at all!? Any input here is appreciated!! Cheers!
awesome video, any plans on doing one for the new Xact forks?
Very nice clean shop and setup. Always appreciate your videos and knowledge. Planning to do a rebuild of my forks soon. May end up dropping in a cartridge kit tho. Decisions decisions....
Pleased to hear that you enjoy the videos.
Great video as always.
I always get a kick out of your garage with the poured concrete walls, I think to myself" is he in a bunker?".
That's one stout garage!:)
The whole house (3 levels) is steel reinforced concrete. Each floor (ceiling and walls) was poured in one go. External walls are 27cm thick and internal walls are 18cm thick. A huge amount of steel rebar was used. Japan has many earthquakes and the house has stood up great to them so far with no cracks, including the big one in 2011. The garage floor has no windows and is underground on 3 sides, so does feel a bit like a bunker...
Great video! What size socket is needed (that you cut a slot in) to remove the preload adjuster? Thanks!
I used a 32mm socket (1/2" drive) and it works well
Thank you so much for well detailed and adviced procedure 👍
Pleased to hear that you found the video useful
Great step by step video. What carbon fork protector did you use?
one of the best videos i have seen. thank you mate.
Hi
best video i raninto about seals replacement, thanks!!!
can you tell if the kit you used will fit KTM EXC250 TPI 2020?
Thank you for the tips with 32 mm socket, it went perfectly.
I have another question regarding the left forck, the compression side, the spindle is travel fast after bleeding air from oil tube, is this ok?
カーボンフォークガードの取り付けに感動しました！
自分のはハスクですが取り付ける時にマネさせてもらいます
Hi, what bleeder valves do you use that don’t interfere with the preload adjuster ? Thanks and happy holidays!
Thank you man, watching from Brazil.
Does the compression fork bleed the same as the rebound? Or is there a different resistance between the two?
The bleed technique is the same for both sides. However, they will feel different even when fully bled.
Thanks alot for sharing this video. Way better than the repair manual.
Excellent work friend as always, good explanation, cleaning, lighting, camera focus, greetings from Tenerife gasss !!👊✊💨
Mark, if you're ever interested on that, if you get to do a shims stack tunning, please do one of these videos.
Fantastic video...very educational. Love the dog at the end !!
Yes, Max always carefully inspects my work! He'll be 12 next month.
My rebound side went smooth, but the compression side not so good. The damper rod just falls down quick, I cannot figure out how to get the spring installed. What am I doing wrong?
I’m sure you figured something out, but you can grab the upper part of the damper rod with a pair of pliers (take care not to scratch the rod) through the coils of the spring, then spin the spring and the pliers and rod will pull up towards the top of the spring, grab the top of the rod when it pokes out of the top of the coil spring.
Do you have problems with re using the o-rings on the top cap and bottom lug?
The top cap and base valve o-rings are usually fine. Good idea to inspect them and replace if damaged.
Great strp by step explanation. Thank's
Great video. Been trying to find a pdf manual on these forks. Mine don't have the preload.
I recommend purchasing the KTM repair manual. It includes details regarding overhauling the suspension. This video shows where you can purchase it from: th-cam.com/video/F1LddyYoP0Q/w-d-xo.html
How can I purge the rear shock absorber wp manually? Without any vacuum device, explain it to me in detail, please, I await your clarification, greetings.
When you bleed the cartridge you should have the adjustment rod in and lightly compressed using the correct tool, the way you have done it allows oil to reach the piston rod
8:22 i need help
The nut below turns in one place is that normal?
Thank you, very helpful. If my seal is good and all i want to do is change oil, can i just add new oil once i have removed the top cap and bottom nut and have emptied all the oil? Or do you suggest changing the seal even if there were no leaks? Thx
No, you don't need to change the seals if they are good. Yes, just remove the cartridge and clean everything. Then re-assemble and set your oil height.
@@TokyoOffroadthank you. Any good online store to buy all the tools that i need for my xplor closed cartridge 48mm forks? Or just go to motion pro. Thanks again
An excellent tutorial.
Thanks for the video! Question, I have the same forks as in your video, I accidentally bought Maxima 5W fork oil instead of Motorex 4W. Will the added oil weight make a big deal and really change the characteristics of the forks? Thx!
I don't think you'll notice a big difference. My advice is to try it and see how it rides. You can try softening the adjusters if you find it too firm.
Is it necessary to take off the bottom hex bolt for fork seals? Did you do this just to get excess oil out?
Yes, to fully drain the oil and clean out the tubes it’s necessary to remove the cartridge.
Thank you me and my dad got stuck trying to figure out how to get the fork to separate, who would of thunk that heating it up would do the trick 🤔 🤣👍
Where do you find the air gap dimension for your forks? I know you said 110mm for the one on the video. The manual only talk in ml and not air gap. I have the tool and ready to do my forks but only know to use ml and not the air gap. I read online the rule of thumb is 110-120 mm air gap. Thanks in advance.
The WP setting document includes air gap specs. 110mm will work well. 120mm if you want a softer feel. Or 100mm if you want it firmer
For anyone that doesn’t have the fork level measuring tool I just marked a small piece of wooden doweling at 110 mm and holding the mark flush with the top of the fork filled it till the level was touching the doweling.
Is the fork oil gap set the same on each fork regardless if compression or rebound forks?
Yes, typically you would set the air gap the same on both the left and right fork legs
@@TokyoOffroad thank you :) how large of an air gap have you run? My forks were around 120mm when I pulled them apart. Thinking of going 140ml to soften it up as I found mine really stiff
BTW what is the size of that old socket you used ? I measured 50mm. Nice video.
I modified a 32mm socket. The external diameter of the socket is 43mm and works well for this application.
My rebound clicker bottoms out counter clockwise. But doesn’t bottom out clockwise. Any ideas? The aluminum rod is installed
Should both forks feel the same once fully assembled? My compression fork feels faster/more springy than the rebound fork??
No, the left and right forks will feel different as the damping is not the same.
hey bro what are those 2 holes by the bushings? what is their purpose?
There are 3 holes in the lower fork tube. These allow air and oil to easily pass from the gap between the lower and outer tubes as the fork moves through it's stroke.
Gun show at 23:25 - plus, thanks for this as always - super useful!
really great video! we can rebuild the complete motorcycle based on your videos :)
Need to do this on my ktm 350 sxf -2016! Thanks so much bro! Awesome video
Did both side are the same assembly execly? Any difference between the rebound and compression side? I have 2017 not six days thx
Yes, the oil seal replacement method is exactly the same for both sides.
thanjs for taking time and sharing your knowledge
Hi Mark, do you have the link for the seal driver tool?
I purchased the one in the video almost 30 years ago. I'm sure similar ones are available though. Whatever you get be sure to check that it fits 48mm tubes...
Thank you Mark, i have an universal driver but still can't put the oil seal in correct position and finaly it is starting to brush it...cracking a bit. In the video you told to put a bit of silicone grease on the seals, but thats ok? because if one put grease on the oil seal, that will pollute the fork oil or not?? there are some people that recomends vaseline.....that will be ok also? why not to use the same oil for the fork. regards!@@TokyoOffroad
@@brunopassalacqua1828 - Yes, fork oil is fine to use to lubricate your seals before installing them. I do like a small amount of silicone grease though on most seals and o-rings I install. Silicone grease doesn't cause seals to swell, is an excellent lubricant helping prevent damage (tearing) during install, will help prevent water entry and is non toxic. I smear a small amount on the lip of the seal and remove any excess.
In the future can u do a video on how to properly warm up a 2 stroke to keep the engine and piston as safe as can be
Noted, yes I'll make a video which shows my start-up procedure.
The method I use is if it's cold I engage the choke, start the engine and using the throttle increase the rpm to an elevated idle and switch off the choke. I then maintain a constant elevated idle until the engine is warm. Once warm I start riding, initially not revving out. When I feel the engine is up to temp I start accelerating to higher rpm (on the pipe). I have a Trail Tech digital fan with a temp display on my bike so it makes it easy to monitor how the bike is warming up. If you don't have a temp display you can touch the pipe and feel how warm it is getting. Using this method I feel it minimizes engine damage and also reduces the chances of fouling a plug.
Anyway I'll make a video soon showing all this.
@@TokyoOffroad my friend revs his two stroke yz125 to high rpms within the first one minute of cold starting it, what specifically should i tell him do you think?
@@ryanrussell3893 - I'm not a fan of doing that. I think by doing that you accelerate wear (requiring more frequent top end overhauls) and also are far more likely to cold seize the engine. When warming up the engine the piston will typically expand faster than the cylinder bore, thus reducing clearance. This issue can be minimized by warming the engine up slowly. IMO the worst thing you can do is rev the engine hard just after start-up...
I am told the left fork will not have the normal resistance when trying to bleed the cartridge, so how do you know when it is properly bled?
When air is bled out of the cartridge it will feel smooth and consistent along the stroke. With air still inside it'll feel jerky.
@@TokyoOffroad I am speaking of the xplor left side fork with the adjustable fixed office mid valve. Are you saying it will feel the same as the more traditional right side fork? Thank you for your reply much appreciated.
@@TokyoOffroadI am having the same issue. Been stroking it like 100 times but still just drops unlike the rebound that only took 5 strokes. Not sure what to do.
I only had a spring spacer in the compression side, and no white plastic spring spacer on the rebound side. Is that normal?
Did you get to the bottom of this? I've just pulled mine apart and I too only have a spacer on the compression side!?!
Hello, what the name of your gaz torch and where I can buy one Plz? Thanks and always a great vidéo!
The torch head is a ShinFuji RZ820S with RZ-850 gas. It's widely available in Japan, but probably not easy to find elsewhere...
good video thank you bro
Hello Tokyo. I have then same model and today i switch my fork oil. I only use 50mm wrench and now my clickers don't stop rotating. It's possible that i broke them? Any solution. Best regards
Possibly the caps are not installed correctly on the damper rods so I would check that first. Before installing the caps on the cartridges it's important to turn the spring guides down, or the caps may sit too high on the rods and not engage properly on the valve adjuster rod. As such my suggestion is to remove the cap, remove the spring, fully wind down the cartridge spring guide as far as it will go, install the spring, install the cap on to the cartridge and check whether the adjuster works correctly.
nice video great step by step instructions
what sized socket did you notch for the preload adjuster?
A notched 32mm socket works well for this
What size is the socket you cut for the preload adjuster?
I used a 32mm socket and it’s just right
Tx.
Who makes that tool to remove the dust boot?
The tool is made by Unit. If you have trouble finding it I do sell them on the Tokyo Offroad webshop here: www.tokyooffroad.com/product/fork-dust-seal-removal-tool/
Hi..how can i know if my preload adjuster cap is damaged? Thanks a lot
If damaged it would typically be hard to turn the adjuster.
@@TokyoOffroad ok then, i just wondering. After I change seal my compression stiffens. I followed your tutorial. I used 5w, 600ml oil..what do you think went wrong?thank you for ypur answer
Great professional, perfect job, thank you
Always SKF Mud Scraper Kit cant go wrong .I never had a problem with oil or mud....try them.
Awesome video! I was successful 🎉👍
Pleased to hear that you found the video helpful
What age bike your ktm? Just wondering if the air gap is correct for my te250i 2020 husqvarna. I put a volume of oil in as recommended by the manual buy would prefer to set the air gap, just not sure if 110 is correct...?
It’s a model year 2017. Typically the air gap for these forks is set between 100~110mm. You could set it to 110mm, test it and if you feel you want to increase the stiffness of the last part of the travel add some more oil to bring it up to 100mm.
Thanks v much. Top video by the way 👍
Which torque wrench are you using?
All my torque wrenches are Tonichi QL-MH series: www.tohnichi.com/products/adjustable-torque-wrench-QLMH.htm
Great video. I like your set of steel pans to lay out parts etc. Would You have any link to order?
I purchased the trays locally in Japan, mostly from a 100 Yen store ($ shop).
@@TokyoOffroad Somehow I think the Japanese 100 yen trays are going to be far, far better quality than the rubbish we have in our dollar stores. 😊
Hey great vids😉 perhaps you can help. I have a 2020 300 TPI with 40hrs on it, its been a motard from brand new just a couple months ago. About 3 weeks ago I had the ECU flashed and installed a higher compression head. The transformation was nothing short of a miracle, It was as smooth as a four stroke but with the punch of a two stroke. There was simply no more stutter, it was a dream come true and changed my life... have I talked it up enough? THEN I jumped on it couple days ago and it wouldn't idle it was spitting black oil out the pipe, running rough (excessive 2T splutter) in the lower revs. I contacted the place that did the tune and made the hi comp head and he said it could be 1. a faulty temp or crank pressure sensor or 2. possibly need a top end rebuild but unlikely at 40hrs. I put it into the dealer and everything checked out fine. It did however have a gummy crank pressure sensor pipe which they cleaned. They gave me the bike back and said it was fine... its not at all, nothing like it was after the tune and head install. Still runs rough, has a low idle and flames out, not good when you've lane filtered and want a spirited takeoff from the traffic at lights. Any ideas???? Thanks........ 😊
Sorry to hear about the problem. You mentioned that it's currently not running well at lower RPM. But how about higher RPM. Does it rev out and run normally at high RPM?
@@TokyoOffroad yes it seems fine in the higher revs..
Whats the weights on the spokes for?
To balance the wheel and help it run smooth on the road at higher speeds.
Ill try and change mine soon, wish me luck
On the 2018 and 2019 models the oil is filled at a min of 632ml & max of 652ml, also you don't do the oil height adjustment as it was done on the 2017 models.
Yes, after 2017 an air gap spec is not published. But even so I think measuring and adjusting the air gap is a better method than adding a set volume of oil.
@@TokyoOffroad I agree it makes it more accurate but since the manual only states a min & max of oil level, you would have to invent it your self. Also I think that since there is a difference of 20ml from min to max oil level maybe there is no need to be that accurate ?
@@stone4858 Yes, my recommendation would be to set the air gap to a reference level (E.g. 100mm) and see how it feels. If it feels too hard on full compression you can increase the air gap (to 110mm for example), or if it feels too soft you reduce (to 90mm for example). With only oil volume it makes it very difficult to make these adjustments...
@@TokyoOffroad I was thinking the same thing, good idea 👌
As long as you stick between the min & max oil level recommended you can use that method.
Great video did you surface the other fork as well ? 😎🖒
KRP - Yes, I always overhaul both sides at the same time.
ive tried using a "seal mate" on a fork seal of a 4cs fork with no luck and ended up trying a "rhino seal doctor" has a seal cleaner and dust seal cleaner on the bottom and designed to catch the dirt as you rotate it and pull it out
I have a Seal Doctor tool too and used it successfully. I'd say the Seal Doctor is a little easier to use than the Seal Mate, although the cost is higher and either tool can be used successfully to clean dirt out. I think the key to cleaning the seals with such tools is to do it as soon as possible and do it very carefully. It you wait and continue to ride with leaking seals they are much more likely to become damaged.
brilliant
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No oil
My preference is to use a small amount of silicone grease on new seals. If you don't have silicone grease then use some fork oil.
Tuku koyo iku nandi yo
What size socket did you use to cut a slot in?