Save yourself every other video on this subject and just watch this. I can't get the 5 hours back I've wasted on every other channel. Great video as always.
@@samuelyeet6006 As he said, good power delivery doesn't necessarily mean maximum possible power delivery. But you might be right nonetheless, although I don't think the exact opening timing of the valve has such a big influence on overall emissions. After all it's always closed at low & open at high rpm, and there's only so much room for adjustment without going into nonsense territory and hurting performance. So maybe yes, but actually no, not really.
Great info for owners of these bikes. Lots of hearsay and bad voodoo miss information out there, it's refreshing to see someone who actually understands efi and the subject material. Well done 👍
Awesome, thank god theres Tokyo Offroad on TH-cam. Quality, trustworthy information, explained perfectly. Thanks for taking the time to make these videos.
Thanks! I've bought husqvarna tpi 300 2019 ant had already not stok settings of valve. It configured for hugh rpm, but I don't need it. Will adjust to stok by this instruction.
mannn I turn 1.5 out the screw and the bike runs crazy better on top end and same good at bottom end. thank u so much it feels like other bike. is a 2021 250 gas gas.
Great video! Thank you. Why bother with getting the stock setting exact with the rpm measurement? Can’t you just get it in the ball park with the micrometer and fine tune it by feel while riding in different conditions to get the desired power you want? Assuming you are running a stock machine.
@ 1:00 , Not so much smaller exhaust port but "lower" exhaust port. This effectively lengthens the power stroke which is what gives you more torque. The piston has a longer push before the port opens.
The Kawasaki KX500 had a power valve. And the modern day BRC 500 has a power valve. However the Honda CR500 doesn't. Why? Reasons I can think of include cost and performing "good enough" without one as most people would short shift 500s anyway.
Thank you for all your great videos! Do you know what would cause the power valve to get stuck in the open position? I just had a 2020 gas gas 300 get stuck in the open position after a top end rebuild, that had the power valves set up and torqued properly? When inspecting the right power valve today, the spring had tension holding the power valve open? So today a re-set up the power valve and verified they were opening at 5,500 rpm and the bike ran great in 117 degree heat. It seemed fixed. I was baffled because I also did a 2020 ktm 250 xc w and had no issues at the same time. Thank you!
I have a digital tachometer with a wire pickup which you wrap round the spark plug cable. Be sure to set the engine type correctly (single cylinder, 2-stroke) or the rpm will not be displayed correctly...
Can you do a video on how to best fix the PV stop bolt leak on the front of the motor. Is it as easy as removing the nut and putting sealant on the the bolt threads or do you need to remove the cylinder for better access? Again, asking about the PV stop bolt leak, not the PV valve cover leak.
Noted. I've only ridden my 2021 for one ride (just under 3H) and haven't noticed bolt leaking oil so far. I'll keep my eye on it and if it starts leaking will make a video, including a fix...
My 2020 300 exc also leaks a little. I ordered the replacement seals recommended, which I think we're the same as 2019. I believe KTM also updated their specs to the new part. 54637107000 SEALING ELEMENT BOTTOM 54837091100 SEALING CARRIER 07
Nice video! Thanks for the explanations 😊 Just a question : we ate ok that change the setup fo this springs don't change de max rpm engine? I have a te150i but she don't take high rpm.
I would suggest to start by setting your PV to spec settings and then test and see if it revs out OK. If it still doesn't rev out then you know the issue isn't the PV setting...
Great video as usual! Thank you I have just installed a new top end on my 2019 xcw300 tpi and I’m wondering how important it is to get the Z measurement adjustment stopper plate on the left side exactly right?
The z dimension for the power valve is very important to set if you've taken the power valve apart to clean, or if you're installing a new cylinder and need to setup the power valve.
@@TokyoOffroad thank you for the response :) I guess I’m m just not 100% sure I got it exactly correct to the spec and I’m wondering how much of it I can ‘trim’ after the fact by removing the side plate for the power valve and adjusting the stopper plate. Will I notice significant loss of power?
No matter how you adjust the preload on power valve, the opening will start at the 5500rpm ,u can adjust from that screw only how long it takes to fully open the power valve .
It's easy to test the effect of the preload adjuster it you have a method to read out the engine rpm. Apply more preload (screw the dolly screw in clockwise) and the PV will start to open at a higher rpm. The secondary springs (red, yellow and green) affect how quickly the PV opens at higher rpm, once the PV is partially open.
Pleased you enjoyed the video. I have an unbranded digital tacho with a pickup wire which wraps round the spark plug cable. Works OK. I haven't tried any other so it's difficult for me to recommend one.
@@TokyoOffroad My old bike had that style tach/hour meter, but from what I remember it didn't respond very quickly to changes in rpm. I'll reply to this if I come across something more suitable.
Good question! The TPI 5,500rpm exhaust valve initial opening spec is close to the carb model bikes' spec. The exact spec changed depending on the year model. Example: 2018 KTM 250 XC W carb bike spec was 5,250rpm and 2018 KTM 300 XC W carb bike was 5,500rpm. As such I think the TPI spec is a good baseline performance setting.
@@TokyoOffroad "The secondary spring starts to take effect right around 5600rpm and that's regardless of where the dolly screw is set." JD Jetting. pbase.com/jdjetting1/image/162720650 Love the videos, keep up the good work.
The side ones are supposed to be pass through when the valve is closed correct? I just did top end on 1990 KTM 300 Mxc and there were no dots to match up for some damn reason so I just timed them in the position where they were open when flapper was lowest and arm was connected. Seem correct?
Question: In addition to blocking exhaust gasses, is port timing affected as well? If so, how is blowback into the intake port controlled? Nube here, sorry.
Yes, the exhaust valve changes the height of the exhaust port, thus changing the exhaust port timing. Following combustion the piston will move down and the exhaust port will become open before the intake (transfer) ports, so the exhaust gases will travel into the expansion chamber, rather than the transfer ports. Here's a video which explains the full 2-stroke cycle. th-cam.com/video/4wMtrVmeoBU/w-d-xo.html
@@TokyoOffroad Thank you for the reply, honestly wasn't expecting one! I guess as long as exhaust port timing precedes transfer port timing, all is good - my thinking was there wasn't much separation between the two prior to being further reduced by the power valve. Thanks again, for both your reply, and for the channel.
Can I do this on a carburated version of the bike ? Or is this purely for tpi’s, got my bike back from a mechanic and found out my power valve no longer had the yellow mark and was all the way out rather than flush or in.
What is your opinion to change the z distance increase or decrease the adjuster height.....i search for little more torque at the bottom.....ktm 300 tpi s3 head,coober ecu, vforce4,idle skrew mode..
Wondering if you have any advice on the 2021 With GET ignition and fuel injection mods? Have the same setup on my 2019 300 and its Perfect. 2021 isn't there yet. This is Extremely helpful info thanks!
Adjustment all depends on what power delivery you prefer for your riding conditions. I ride greasy rooty trails with a lot of steep transitions. I run the stiffest spring...and set it by feel, which is in far enough to keep it off the pipe until the throttle is almost wide open. Basically it opens much later than stock. It lugs better and I have more control over traction.
I also did this with my tpi, no problem at all was much more controllable and still ran perfectly. Ive no idea why they dont want you to fiddle with the powervalve.
The same for me. I put red spring and all unscrewed. 200h with a 300 tpi 2018 without problems. I don't know why Ktm doesn't want to touch this regulation...
Is there any real reason to why you shouldn't switch the small spring? and is there any negative to adjust the power valve on tpi's to get another engine feeling? Thanks!
When I had my 2021 KTM 300 TPI (I sold it recently) I ran the red PV spring which allows the PV to open faster than the stock yellow spring and results in a more snappy and powerful ride feeling. I was running a GET ECU and injector kit which allowed me to adjust fueling to my liking. If changing the PV spring with the stock ECU tune you should be aware that the red spring will make it run a little leaner and that if your bike is already running lean this isn't a good idea. If however you feel your bike is not running lean then it's something you could try.
@@TokyoOffroad Okey cool, thanks for the answer! I would love to have the the power valve adjuster the ktm factory boys have where they can put preload on the big and the small spring separately. Would be cool too experiment a bit more with that!
Hello hows it going my name is Christian Quezada i watch your channels and see that you know these ktm well can you help me my 06 ktm 300 xew it iddles ok and when i drive it it accelerates relly fast almost wants to knock me down i cleaned the carb twice im scarde that its gonna drop me any help
Good Evening! I would like your advice because I have lost some settings in the 2019 exc 300 model. at 5500 rpm that the power valves open, in how many millimeters respectively are they in the adjuster?
This valve should open fully at higher rpm correct? Mine doesn't fully open at or around 8500 rpm but may move only 1/4 of it's potential travel. My bike runs like shit too; 2021 300 XC-W Erzberg. I'm thinking I have something broken in the mechanism behind the clutch side case? Have ever seen a centrifugal governor go bad on the water pump shaft or any of those parts fail?
No info on the I net about this. Limited in the manual. Is the Z dimension set via the grub screw on the TPI bikes? So in theory, if you don't adjust or turn the grub screw after cleaning the powervalve, the Z dimension should stay at 49.5mm. Right?
Yes, that's correct. The TPI z dimension adjustment is on the powervalve front cover. Following re-assembly it's still a good idea to check that it's correct. 300 TPI z dimension spec is 49.5mm and 250 TPI is 49mm.
@@jswervy16 - The KTM TPI Repair manual does contain the details regarding how to check and adjust the z dimension. I have the Repair Manual for the 2020 model and the information is on page 277
Ok so thats good for the "specs" but arent those specs almost solely based on emmision standards? And not what the bike should run at for proper power delivery?
No, the stock power valve opening spec is a good baseline setting for performance and results in a power delivery characteristic which increases in a linear manner. I'd recommend anyone with a new bike to initially check that the PV is set to spec, ride and adjust from there based on personal preference.
@@TokyoOffroad alright, im going to go ahead and take your advice and do that then, you seem to be the most knowledgeable on these bikes on here, thanks!
Random question, but i have a 19 250XCF and the e start does not work at all anymore.. About one month ago it started to really lag/delay when I would hold it. I would have to hold it, let go, hold it for about 4 seconds and it would finally crank. Then it turned into holding it for 6-8 seconds, and then even 9-10. Now it does not start at all. Is the stator or starter the issue? The battery is fully charged and the connections are clean. (I had to bump start it on my last ride because of the issue)
When you press the start button can you hear the starter solenoid click? One easy way to check the motor is to apply power directly to the starter motor terminals (use some car jump starter leads) and see whether it turns over easily. One common issue is the battery ground connection to the subframe can become corroded creating starter issues. Remove the ground connection, clean with a wire brush and retest.
@@TokyoOffroad When I press the starter I do not hear the solenoid click. My ground to the subframe has been cleaned. And to access the starter motor terminal is it behind the ignition cover?
@@ryanrussell3893 Do you have a multimeter? If so set it to voltage mode and measure the voltage on the solenoid white/red wire (should be 12V, if not then the fuse is probably blown). Next measure the voltage on the solenoid blue/red wire (should normally be 12v, then change to 0v when the starter button is pressed, if it doesn't go to 0V then the wiring/connector/starter switch are most likely causes). If both of the measurements are OK then the solenoid may have failed and will need replacing.
@@ryanrussell3893 - I’m assuming that you’re talking about the start motor solenoid. The solenoid is located under the seat. The control wires run from the starter switch to the solenoid. The start motor power runs from the solenoid to the starter motor terminals located on the right side of the bike. There is no starter related wiring inside the stator cover.
Engine rpm tachometers are available cheaply which come with a wire which wraps around the spark plug lead and can read rpm. Or some smartphone apps are available which use the microphone to analyze the engine noise to calculate the rpm.
No, it’s as I explained in the video. The large spring/adjuster control the rpm the valve starts to open and the small spring controls how quickly the valve goes from closed to fully open.
My 2019 6days 250 came from factory with preload 1/4 turn out from flush. Opening at around 4450rpm, when adjusted to 5500 the bike bogs and hesitates as it starts to open🤷♂️. Can’t work out why
One common issue is that the crankcase pressure sensor tube and fitting can get blocked and cause higher rpm bogging. I made this video about the issue. Certainly worth checking yours (remove the brass fitting from the crankcase and make sure it's clear): th-cam.com/video/CTBLjElDNQ8/w-d-xo.html
@@TokyoOffroad not that either. I had the erratic revving and I always clean that hose. I got a lot of gunk out of the actual ccps. U might have seen it on two stroke performance fb page. That fixed the erratic revving holding stable throttle but the bike likes pv opening early. Haven’t seen another bike that had same preload setting from factory like mine
@@darrenh4045 I see. Yes, your factory set preload adjuster setting sounds very unusual. Have you taken the adjuster off the bike and checked that the springs are installed correctly. Other checks to make are regarding fueling (check fuel pressure, fuel filters, injectors). Have you discussed the problem with your KTM dealer?
@@TokyoOffroad to be honest I haven’t worried too much about it. Just mentioned it cause don’t hear of them set like this. Always ran very rich. Air screw was 3 1/4 out from factory too. Used to have low rpm splutter but sorted that with tsp med comp head and ecu. And run Pv 1/4 in from flush, air screw 2 1/4 and has way more power than stock. Still rich though fair bit spooge out the pipe. Have done all fuel filters and on top of all the ‘common’ tpi things. This bike just is how it is. It’s odd I know. Don’t know why🤷♂️ but I get 120klms from a tank and its goes hard
My 2017 has 456H on it. It's a 250. You can see me overhauling the bottom end here. I'm going to convert it to a 300 as I have a new (used bike) which is also a 2017 250: th-cam.com/video/fHozIas1nxE/w-d-xo.html
What able are you using? If you look into the cable’s 6 pin connector, how many pins have been populated? If you see only 3 pins it’s not the correct cable for this application and won’t work. For details regarding the cable I used (sold by Lonelec in the UK) check out the video I linked to in the description of this one.
@@Crazystuffyousee - The links work for me. This is the one for the cable: www.lonelec.co.uk/Motorbike-and-Car-OBD2-Adaptors/OBD2-Motorbike-Adaptors/KTM-6pin-OBD2-Adaptor
What is your opinion on changing the PowerValve to suit different rider preferences on TPI bikes? In earlier models it was more like "set it how it suits you" and not like "here is the spec, set it and dont touch it" Kyle from DirtBikeChannel made a video about that and i am keen to hear your opinion on that matter! Heres the Link to his video: th-cam.com/video/KaS6_72PHD8/w-d-xo.html
My opinion is that there's a big difference between carb bikes and TPI. When performance mods are made to a carb bike, if the bike feels lean, or rich after the mods the owner can easily tune the air/fuel mixture using the carburetor (E.g. change pilot, main, needle, or adjust the airscrew). With the TPI you can't easily make changes to the fueling if using the stock ECU. As such you need to be careful what mods you do and closely monitor how the bike feels after making a change, or you could make the bike run more poorly, or worse case damage the engine. My plan for my 2021 KTM 300 is to next fit and test an RK Tek head, while leaving the PV setting stock. After that I plan to install a GET ECU and may decide to test different PV settings at that time. I'll be making update videos as I go and will share my honest thoughts regarding how the bike feels after each mod...
@@TokyoOffroad Thanks a lot for your feedback, I will follow that videos as your content is way more "scientific" as other channels thus making your informations a lot more sound. Is it possible to install a O2 Sensor in the system to messure the Air/Fuel ratios from stock/ RKTekHead+ECU/ RKTek+ECU+PV changes, or is this not a "practical" solution? Keep the great content coming! :)
@@TokyoOffroad regarding the "adjusting power valve" topic I assume that the coolant temp sensor reads engine temp so the ECU takes it from there for the fuel mixture adjustments
@@TokyoOffroad you have a ktm 2012 too??.....come on!...mine is a 2007 and in 1500rpm won't run(too much stalling,also I have a rekluse 3.0 core that's y mine is set to 1800+ rpm)
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Save yourself every other video on this subject and just watch this. I can't get the 5 hours back I've wasted on every other channel. Great video as always.
Ok but does the bike actually run perfect at this spec? Im pretty sure this spec is for emission standards, not for good overall power delivery
@@samuelyeet6006 “good overall power delivery”…is different for every rider, and at many times in different conditions.
@@719vol k
@@samuelyeet6006
As he said, good power delivery doesn't necessarily mean maximum possible power delivery.
But you might be right nonetheless, although I don't think the exact opening timing of the valve has such a big influence on overall emissions. After all it's always closed at low & open at high rpm, and there's only so much room for adjustment without going into nonsense territory and hurting performance.
So maybe yes, but actually no, not really.
@@heinzhaupthaar5590 100% agree im not chasing power in my bike, but perfected power delivery, i want smooth throttle and crisp response.
Great info for owners of these bikes.
Lots of hearsay and bad voodoo miss information out there, it's refreshing to see someone who actually understands efi and the subject material.
Well done 👍
Awesome, thank god theres Tokyo Offroad on TH-cam. Quality, trustworthy information, explained perfectly. Thanks for taking the time to make these videos.
Thanks. Pleased that you enjoyed the video...
They were correct. I am here because of positive reviews for your videos
Thanks Good VDO! Nice that KTM moved to a method where the correct adjustment can be done with normal tools by a simple measurement
Brilliant. Mate of mine started turning his with no reference. Can now reset and check as Iv’e also order the diagnostics tool. Top job.
Very impressed good brake down and explained very well .... they say you learn something new every day 😎👍🏻
Thanks! I've bought husqvarna tpi 300 2019 ant had already not stok settings of valve. It configured for hugh rpm, but I don't need it. Will adjust to stok by this instruction.
Best power valve video yet! By far!!! Thank you!
Nice and simple explained. Greetings from southern Poland
Fantastic explanation out there...
Thanks for this info will invest in this app I think👍
Superb. As always. To the point.
mannn I turn 1.5 out the screw and the bike runs crazy better on top end and same good at bottom end. thank u so much it feels like other bike. is a 2021 250 gas gas.
Perfect breakdown easy to understand another great video thanx
Best video for hardware.
You are always spot on!
I wish my riding could always be spot on! LOL. Hope you enjoyed the video...
Awesome video, thank you very much!!! Love the way you explain and show things. Great show.
Great video! Thank you. Why bother with getting the stock setting exact with the rpm measurement? Can’t you just get it in the ball park with the micrometer and fine tune it by feel while riding in different conditions to get the desired power you want? Assuming you are running a stock machine.
Thank you for the video!
@ 1:00 , Not so much smaller exhaust port but "lower" exhaust port.
This effectively lengthens the power stroke which is what gives you more torque. The piston has a longer push before the port opens.
I didn't say smaller exhaust port. I said lower exhaust port height. We're saying the same thing...
Excellent information 👍
Great video as always Mark👍
Thanks and pleased you enjoyed it...
great vids you Have!!! thanks🇵🇭🇵🇭👌🏆
great explanation as always, thank you. What about adjusting it on the tpi, do you have video planned for that?
very good video
Thanks and pleased that you enjoyed the video...
Great explanation, Why did the 500cc motors opted out on the power valve back in the day?
The Kawasaki KX500 had a power valve. And the modern day BRC 500 has a power valve. However the Honda CR500 doesn't. Why? Reasons I can think of include cost and performing "good enough" without one as most people would short shift 500s anyway.
Thank you for all your great videos!
Do you know what would cause the power valve to get stuck in the open position? I just had a 2020 gas gas 300 get stuck in the open position after a top end rebuild, that had the power valves set up and torqued properly? When inspecting the right power valve today, the spring had tension holding the power valve open? So today a re-set up the power valve and verified they were opening at 5,500 rpm and the bike ran great in 117 degree heat. It seemed fixed. I was baffled because I also did a 2020 ktm 250 xc w and had no issues at the same time.
Thank you!
Do you think the green tight spring and deep tuning are suitable for a beginner?
Great and informative video as always, Mark - Thank you!
What about a 2017 model, how do we check the RPM there? haha
I have a digital tachometer with a wire pickup which you wrap round the spark plug cable. Be sure to set the engine type correctly (single cylinder, 2-stroke) or the rpm will not be displayed correctly...
Can you do a video on how to best fix the PV stop bolt leak on the front of the motor. Is it as easy as removing the nut and putting sealant on the the bolt threads or do you need to remove the cylinder for better access? Again, asking about the PV stop bolt leak, not the PV valve cover leak.
My EXC 300 has oil leake as well!
Noted. I've only ridden my 2021 for one ride (just under 3H) and haven't noticed bolt leaking oil so far. I'll keep my eye on it and if it starts leaking will make a video, including a fix...
@@TokyoOffroad
Thanks Mark.
My 2020 300 exc also leaks a little. I ordered the replacement seals recommended, which I think we're the same as 2019. I believe KTM also updated their specs to the new part. 54637107000
SEALING ELEMENT BOTTOM
54837091100
SEALING CARRIER 07
Nice video! Thanks for the explanations 😊
Just a question : we ate ok that change the setup fo this springs don't change de max rpm engine? I have a te150i but she don't take high rpm.
I would suggest to start by setting your PV to spec settings and then test and see if it revs out OK. If it still doesn't rev out then you know the issue isn't the PV setting...
Great video as usual! Thank you
I have just installed a new top end on my 2019 xcw300 tpi and I’m wondering how important it is to get the Z measurement adjustment stopper plate on the left side exactly right?
The z dimension for the power valve is very important to set if you've taken the power valve apart to clean, or if you're installing a new cylinder and need to setup the power valve.
@@TokyoOffroad thank you for the response :)
I guess I’m m just not 100% sure I got it exactly correct to the spec and I’m wondering how much of it I can ‘trim’ after the fact by removing the side plate for the power valve and adjusting the stopper plate. Will I notice significant loss of power?
Great video, what does 1/4 turn equal in the increase in revs at the point were the valve opens - many thanks :-)
but why can we pass the 2.5mm for example for hardenduro???
No matter how you adjust the preload on power valve, the opening will start at the 5500rpm ,u can adjust from that screw only how long it takes to fully open the power valve .
It's easy to test the effect of the preload adjuster it you have a method to read out the engine rpm. Apply more preload (screw the dolly screw in clockwise) and the PV will start to open at a higher rpm. The secondary springs (red, yellow and green) affect how quickly the PV opens at higher rpm, once the PV is partially open.
@TokyoOffroad I will test your theory. I thought the big sprig command when the power valve start to open,and auxiliary spring how fast.
Great video! Is there a tachometer you recommend for carbureted models?
Pleased you enjoyed the video. I have an unbranded digital tacho with a pickup wire which wraps round the spark plug cable. Works OK. I haven't tried any other so it's difficult for me to recommend one.
@@TokyoOffroad My old bike had that style tach/hour meter, but from what I remember it didn't respond very quickly to changes in rpm. I'll reply to this if I come across something more suitable.
Are these factory settings for best performance or for emissions ?
Good question! The TPI 5,500rpm exhaust valve initial opening spec is close to the carb model bikes' spec. The exact spec changed depending on the year model. Example: 2018 KTM 250 XC W carb bike spec was 5,250rpm and 2018 KTM 300 XC W carb bike was 5,500rpm. As such I think the TPI spec is a good baseline performance setting.
@@TokyoOffroad Thanks for the speedy input .
@@TokyoOffroad "The secondary spring starts to take effect right around 5600rpm and that's regardless of where the dolly screw is set." JD Jetting. pbase.com/jdjetting1/image/162720650 Love the videos, keep up the good work.
The side ones are supposed to be pass through when the valve is closed correct? I just did top end on 1990 KTM 300 Mxc and there were no dots to match up for some damn reason so I just timed them in the position where they were open when flapper was lowest and arm was connected. Seem correct?
Question: In addition to blocking exhaust gasses, is port timing affected as well? If so, how is blowback into the intake port controlled? Nube here, sorry.
Yes, the exhaust valve changes the height of the exhaust port, thus changing the exhaust port timing. Following combustion the piston will move down and the exhaust port will become open before the intake (transfer) ports, so the exhaust gases will travel into the expansion chamber, rather than the transfer ports. Here's a video which explains the full 2-stroke cycle. th-cam.com/video/4wMtrVmeoBU/w-d-xo.html
@@TokyoOffroad Thank you for the reply, honestly wasn't expecting one! I guess as long as exhaust port timing precedes transfer port timing, all is good - my thinking was there wasn't much separation between the two prior to being further reduced by the power valve. Thanks again, for both your reply, and for the channel.
Can I do this on a carburated version of the bike ? Or is this purely for tpi’s, got my bike back from a mechanic and found out my power valve no longer had the yellow mark and was all the way out rather than flush or in.
Yes, you can do this on carb bikes, but you'll need a tachometer to measure the engine rpm as there is no digital CAN bus.
What is your opinion to change the z distance increase or decrease the adjuster height.....i search for little more torque at the bottom.....ktm 300 tpi s3 head,coober ecu, vforce4,idle skrew mode..
Wondering if you have any advice on the 2021 With GET ignition and fuel injection mods? Have the same setup on my 2019 300 and its Perfect. 2021 isn't there yet. This is Extremely helpful info thanks!
Is stock setting on 23’ 300 tpi 5500rpm? Are they different bike to bike. Is this info available anywhere?
Adjustment all depends on what power delivery you prefer for your riding conditions.
I ride greasy rooty trails with a lot of steep transitions.
I run the stiffest spring...and set it by feel, which is in far enough to keep it off the pipe until the throttle is almost wide open.
Basically it opens much later than stock. It lugs better and I have more control over traction.
I also did this with my tpi, no problem at all was much more controllable and still ran perfectly. Ive no idea why they dont want you to fiddle with the powervalve.
The same for me. I put red spring and all unscrewed. 200h with a 300 tpi 2018 without problems. I don't know why Ktm doesn't want to touch this regulation...
@@JONTU how did you like the red spring and flush? Heard it was more linear power.
Is there any real reason to why you shouldn't switch the small spring? and is there any negative to adjust the power valve on tpi's to get another engine feeling? Thanks!
When I had my 2021 KTM 300 TPI (I sold it recently) I ran the red PV spring which allows the PV to open faster than the stock yellow spring and results in a more snappy and powerful ride feeling. I was running a GET ECU and injector kit which allowed me to adjust fueling to my liking. If changing the PV spring with the stock ECU tune you should be aware that the red spring will make it run a little leaner and that if your bike is already running lean this isn't a good idea. If however you feel your bike is not running lean then it's something you could try.
@@TokyoOffroad Okey cool, thanks for the answer! I would love to have the the power valve adjuster the ktm factory boys have where they can put preload on the big and the small spring separately. Would be cool too experiment a bit more with that!
Hello hows it going my name is Christian Quezada i watch your channels and see that you know these ktm well can you help me my 06 ktm 300 xew it iddles ok and when i drive it it accelerates relly fast almost wants to knock me down i cleaned the carb twice im scarde that its gonna drop me any help
Good Evening! I would like your advice because I have lost some settings in the 2019 exc 300 model. at 5500 rpm that the power valves open, in how many millimeters respectively are they in the adjuster?
I would start at 2.3mm and adjust as necessary from there.
@@TokyoOffroad thank you very much!
This valve should open fully at higher rpm correct? Mine doesn't fully open at or around 8500 rpm but may move only 1/4 of it's potential travel. My bike runs like shit too; 2021 300 XC-W Erzberg. I'm thinking I have something broken in the mechanism behind the clutch side case? Have ever seen a centrifugal governor go bad on the water pump shaft or any of those parts fail?
Oh...bike has only 6 hours on it total.
No info on the I net about this. Limited in the manual. Is the Z dimension set via the grub screw on the TPI bikes? So in theory, if you don't adjust or turn the grub screw after cleaning the powervalve, the Z dimension should stay at 49.5mm. Right?
Yes, that's correct. The TPI z dimension adjustment is on the powervalve front cover. Following re-assembly it's still a good idea to check that it's correct. 300 TPI z dimension spec is 49.5mm and 250 TPI is 49mm.
@@TokyoOffroad Yasss..Man. We need a video on this. No info about Z dim on TPI. I'll still check it tomm before I button it up. Thank you!!!!!
@@jswervy16 - The KTM TPI Repair manual does contain the details regarding how to check and adjust the z dimension. I have the Repair Manual for the 2020 model and the information is on page 277
@@TokyoOffroad correct. I read it today actually but wanted to verify. Odd that there is no info on forums unless I just missed it.
Hi Mark... hope you’re doing ok! Can you share the app for OBD scanner for IOS?
Yes, doing OK thanks. I used the free version of "Car Scanner" for iOS
Ok so thats good for the "specs" but arent those specs almost solely based on emmision standards? And not what the bike should run at for proper power delivery?
No, the stock power valve opening spec is a good baseline setting for performance and results in a power delivery characteristic which increases in a linear manner. I'd recommend anyone with a new bike to initially check that the PV is set to spec, ride and adjust from there based on personal preference.
@@TokyoOffroad alright, im going to go ahead and take your advice and do that then, you seem to be the most knowledgeable on these bikes on here, thanks!
Random question, but i have a 19 250XCF and the e start does not work at all anymore.. About one month ago it started to really lag/delay when I would hold it. I would have to hold it, let go, hold it for about 4 seconds and it would finally crank. Then it turned into holding it for 6-8 seconds, and then even 9-10. Now it does not start at all. Is the stator or starter the issue? The battery is fully charged and the connections are clean. (I had to bump start it on my last ride because of the issue)
When you press the start button can you hear the starter solenoid click? One easy way to check the motor is to apply power directly to the starter motor terminals (use some car jump starter leads) and see whether it turns over easily. One common issue is the battery ground connection to the subframe can become corroded creating starter issues. Remove the ground connection, clean with a wire brush and retest.
@@TokyoOffroad When I press the starter I do not hear the solenoid click. My ground to the subframe has been cleaned. And to access the starter motor terminal is it behind the ignition cover?
@@ryanrussell3893 Do you have a multimeter? If so set it to voltage mode and measure the voltage on the solenoid white/red wire (should be 12V, if not then the fuse is probably blown). Next measure the voltage on the solenoid blue/red wire (should normally be 12v, then change to 0v when the starter button is pressed, if it doesn't go to 0V then the wiring/connector/starter switch are most likely causes). If both of the measurements are OK then the solenoid may have failed and will need replacing.
@@TokyoOffroad Are the wires for the solenoid behind the ignition cover? Or under the seat?
@@ryanrussell3893 - I’m assuming that you’re talking about the start motor solenoid. The solenoid is located under the seat. The control wires run from the starter switch to the solenoid. The start motor power runs from the solenoid to the starter motor terminals located on the right side of the bike. There is no starter related wiring inside the stator cover.
How do I know rpm on a carburated bike? (2016 husqvarna te300)
Engine rpm tachometers are available cheaply which come with a wire which wraps around the spark plug lead and can read rpm. Or some smartphone apps are available which use the microphone to analyze the engine noise to calculate the rpm.
@@TokyoOffroad I had no idea. Thank you. Looking into it now👍
Isn't it more like
Small spring - coarse adjustment
Large spring pretension - fine adjustment
?
No, it’s as I explained in the video. The large spring/adjuster control the rpm the valve starts to open and the small spring controls how quickly the valve goes from closed to fully open.
Will that thing flash the ECU?
Unfortunately no, it will not.
My 2019 6days 250 came from factory with preload 1/4 turn out from flush. Opening at around 4450rpm, when adjusted to 5500 the bike bogs and hesitates as it starts to open🤷♂️. Can’t work out why
One common issue is that the crankcase pressure sensor tube and fitting can get blocked and cause higher rpm bogging. I made this video about the issue. Certainly worth checking yours (remove the brass fitting from the crankcase and make sure it's clear): th-cam.com/video/CTBLjElDNQ8/w-d-xo.html
@@TokyoOffroad not that either. I had the erratic revving and I always clean that hose. I got a lot of gunk out of the actual ccps. U might have seen it on two stroke performance fb page. That fixed the erratic revving holding stable throttle but the bike likes pv opening early. Haven’t seen another bike that had same preload setting from factory like mine
@@darrenh4045 I see. Yes, your factory set preload adjuster setting sounds very unusual. Have you taken the adjuster off the bike and checked that the springs are installed correctly. Other checks to make are regarding fueling (check fuel pressure, fuel filters, injectors). Have you discussed the problem with your KTM dealer?
@@TokyoOffroad to be honest I haven’t worried too much about it. Just mentioned it cause don’t hear of them set like this. Always ran very rich. Air screw was 3 1/4 out from factory too. Used to have low rpm splutter but sorted that with tsp med comp head and ecu. And run Pv 1/4 in from flush, air screw 2 1/4 and has way more power than stock. Still rich though fair bit spooge out the pipe. Have done all fuel filters and on top of all the ‘common’ tpi things. This bike just is how it is. It’s odd I know. Don’t know why🤷♂️ but I get 120klms from a tank and its goes hard
has anyone messed with the power valve on the tpi bikes and seen what it does yet..?
SUPER KIPS ON KAWASAKI NINJA ?
How many hours you put on your 2017 300 before you got this new tpi?
My 2017 has 456H on it. It's a 250. You can see me overhauling the bottom end here. I'm going to convert it to a 300 as I have a new (used bike) which is also a 2017 250: th-cam.com/video/fHozIas1nxE/w-d-xo.html
The OBD link doesnt work
What able are you using? If you look into the cable’s 6 pin connector, how many pins have been populated? If you see only 3 pins it’s not the correct cable for this application and won’t work. For details regarding the cable I used (sold by Lonelec in the UK) check out the video I linked to in the description of this one.
@@TokyoOffroad - No...the link you posted in the description doesn't work. It says the page doesn't exist.
@@Crazystuffyousee - The links work for me. This is the one for the cable: www.lonelec.co.uk/Motorbike-and-Car-OBD2-Adaptors/OBD2-Motorbike-Adaptors/KTM-6pin-OBD2-Adaptor
@@TokyoOffroad - Thank you. This link works. The one in the description does not.
@@Crazystuffyousee - Not sure what happened there! I just updated the link in the description and it's working now. Thanks for your feedback...
What is your opinion on changing the PowerValve to suit different rider preferences on TPI bikes? In earlier models it was more like "set it how it suits you" and not like "here is the spec, set it and dont touch it" Kyle from DirtBikeChannel made a video about that and i am keen to hear your opinion on that matter! Heres the Link to his video: th-cam.com/video/KaS6_72PHD8/w-d-xo.html
My opinion is that there's a big difference between carb bikes and TPI. When performance mods are made to a carb bike, if the bike feels lean, or rich after the mods the owner can easily tune the air/fuel mixture using the carburetor (E.g. change pilot, main, needle, or adjust the airscrew). With the TPI you can't easily make changes to the fueling if using the stock ECU. As such you need to be careful what mods you do and closely monitor how the bike feels after making a change, or you could make the bike run more poorly, or worse case damage the engine.
My plan for my 2021 KTM 300 is to next fit and test an RK Tek head, while leaving the PV setting stock. After that I plan to install a GET ECU and may decide to test different PV settings at that time. I'll be making update videos as I go and will share my honest thoughts regarding how the bike feels after each mod...
@@TokyoOffroad Thanks a lot for your feedback, I will follow that videos as your content is way more "scientific" as other channels thus making your informations a lot more sound. Is it possible to install a O2 Sensor in the system to messure the Air/Fuel ratios from stock/ RKTekHead+ECU/ RKTek+ECU+PV changes, or is this not a "practical" solution? Keep the great content coming! :)
@@TokyoOffroad regarding the "adjusting power valve" topic I assume that the coolant temp sensor reads engine temp so the ECU takes it from there for the fuel mixture adjustments
the idle speed for the 2020/21 is waaayyyy low.....I have mine around 1800-2000rpm.
I've heard a heap of stalling from issues that then require the idle screw mod due to low idle. etc.
@@Cee-FJedi What do you mean ??.....I don't understand.
Interesting. The KTM idle spec in the manual is 1400-1500rpm. My 2021 300 TPI is about 1500rpm and runs fine.
@@TokyoOffroad you have a ktm 2012 too??.....come on!...mine is a 2007 and in 1500rpm won't run(too much stalling,also I have a rekluse 3.0 core that's y mine is set to 1800+ rpm)
@@desmonchild - Typo, 2021 and fixed now. Yes, it runs fine with the idle at 1500rpm
Great video, very clear instruction 👍🏻