3d Printing Lightweight ASA (LW-ASA) Best Filament For Props & Cosplay?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 มิ.ย. 2024
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In this video we take a look at lightweight ASA which is a very unique filament that has a foaming property. This allows you to get the same great temperature and UV resistance as regular ASA with a fraction of the weight. Personally, I think this filament is a fantastic option for things like Props and Cosplay, RC boats, planes, or drones. We take a look at how to print with this filament and what my results were like.
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Time Stamps:
0:00 - Intro
1:40 - Thangs3D
2:30 - Properties
5:13 - Hardware Requirements
6:48 - Calibration
9:40 - Slicer Settings
10:49 - Printing
11:26 - Print Results
12:12 - Comparison
13:35 - Larger Layer Experimentation
14:11 - Outro
Music provided by Argofox:
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Can’t believe how easy those supports and extra bits removed from the ASA prints! I’ve never heard of that material before. Will have to consider grabbing a roll
I say this a lot, but I recommend combining them with superslicer's sawtooth interface option :P
I sometimes use PVA with my own prints and it's magical!
I feel like this stuff is perfect for some of the things you print man :)
Honestly, the best part about this is that you basically get two spools for the price of... Two spools!
Double the fun foam action :D
Now I need some enclosures! This looks awesome. Great video.
Looks like great stuff. Thanks for showing it off.
Absolutely! It was a lot of fun to use and I was surprised how well it printed once the settings were dialed in :)
Very high quality video
Another great video!
Thank you Jon :)
This stuff is awesome. Love using it.
What have you been using it for??
I just thought that strength is not just material strength depending on the part you are trying to build. I saw an episode of LEGO WARS tv program. Where the contestants built a bridge out of LEGOs. And to see how much weight it could hold. THe wining bridge design held 1000LBS. So the design does add a lot to the strength of the piece. Also on "This Old House" TV program they built a bench seat in a shower made out of something like foam board. Also we have seen that placing plywood sheets in a certain orientation adds a lot of strength to a structure in an earth quake. So I am doing more redesign in my parts to see if I can make them stronger with out just adding more infill. Also CURA has Infill for crush strength and also WALLs for twist strength .
I like the video. I am trying to find the old ASA video. The one thing you did not cover that you might have covered in the previous video is how does ASA compared to ABS as hazardous partials and fumes are concerned. I print in PLA TPU and PETG. I decided not to print with ABS for that reason. If i don't need real strength ASA or Light weight ASA seems like a good choice. I wonder how Light weight ASA compares to light weight PLA when it comes to building RC models. Airplanes, boats, and cars.
I like it a it's usually dimensionally accurate for parts. I haven't tried the lightweight ASA yet.
I think it would be interesting to print a hot end fan shroud out of this to shave a little weight off...
I had not even considered this and now it seems so obvious. That is a great application.
If you actually increase the performance of your 3D Printer by losing like 1g of material, you might as well just throw the entire 3d printer out the window and consider getting a proper one. Any 3d Printer worth its money will laugh at the amount of weight saving and by the time you've sped up your 3d printer fast enough where such miniscule weight savings _could_ actually make an observable impact you're printing high quality garbage like those guys over at the Speed Benchy Race - It just doesn't make any sense.
@Chris Valin Proving my point would be like telling you about air keeping you alive - It's beyond obvious if you spent any time trying to print _a lot_ faster than what your average run of the mill 3D Printer will normally do.
Up to a certain point weight will mean _nothing_ to your 3D Printers performance and once you've reached _that_ point where it does you've _long_ since surpassed the point where your prints are still presentable because of reasons that had nothing to do with the motion system such a LW material could benefit from.
Just look at _literally - every_ Speed Benchy Race Video out there. Especially the ones where they skeletonize and carbonframinize their machines to the max to save every grain of weight they can get followed by adding two half HP Servo motors to the X/Y Axis - The prints still look like fresh horse shit you cannot use for anything other than uneducated TH-cam clicks.
@@Duraltia I see it's been about 9 months since you tried to make this point, however, the weight savings could be pretty useful for a delta printer. Could help improve speed and quality.
@@Xanthira222 I think my last statement still holds fairly true as I'm not aware of any major and universally applicable advances in 3D Printing ( at least not in the Hobby / DIY sector ) having happened since my last argument that would disagree with it.
My point back then was about the kinda ridiculous claim that a weight saving of 1g at the Tool Head ( in relation to the rest of the entire moving mass ) would result in a sharp performance increase.
Is a 1g saving on a 300g moving mass system noticeable from a machine standpoint via Inertia / Resonance Measurement Systems? I hope so! Will it show in the 3D printed part? *_HIGHLY_* unlikely because if your machine is affected by 1g then simply loading a denser / heavier Filament could totally run your machine out of whack for whatever you've calibrated it for - Hence my comment about throwing that garbage machine out of the window as it your requirements for precision can simply not be met by such a frail system 😁
I wonder how lightweight you could make a toolhead with this? Like use the orbiter v2 + a drop effect xg. Or even the (if it really exists) pico hybrid.
This material is really interesting. I am curious if you can make cheap storage bins with it. You'd need a massive printer size though, probably way bigger that most pro sumer printers
>Liked< for the awesome PLA support fling.
Just kidding, great video as always. Keep it up, bud.
lmao just happy it did not hit me in the face.
ASA should allow for acetone smoothing of some sort making post process easier
Definitely. With the foaming I wonder if it is even necessary though. It would not need nearly as much time with the vapor to completely smooth.
Have a video of difference between, expanded polystyrene and (lw-pla/lw-asa)
Very cool! Have you tried vapor smoothing this material?
I have not but it in theory should work :)
Well, it looks like I'm a bit late to the conversation. ASA vs ApolloX? The foaming option is cool, but im looking for structural strength and durability. Currently I have a random asa spool and am wondering how it compares to ApolloX.
Hey, have you heard of the 4D printed Lamborghini. I am planning something similar but with ASA or this lightweight ASA on a Elegoo neptune 3 max. I'm asking people that have more knowledge and experience, which 3D filament what do you use? Oh and I plan on put either fiberglass or carbon fiber over it.
Great video. If you had to choose between HIGH TEMP LIGHT WEIGHT PLA or LIGHT WEIGHT ASA for large RC planes which do you think would be best?
ASA would be my choice just for heat from any of the motors and it’s resistance to degradation from UV 😊
Any chance you can get your hands on a roll of Polymaker PC-PBT? I'm wondering if it's a sleeper that may work similar to the prusament pc blend.
I'm also curious about Polymaker's PC-PBT. Polymaker does sell a sample box on Amazon that is a 50g roll of each PolyLite PC, PolyMax PC, PC-FR, PC-ABS, and PC-PBT. I've been thinking about picking it up. If you wanted to try out some PC blends, the sample box seems like it would be a good choice.
First time hearing about it. No guarantees but I did add it to my list of filaments to explore.
Can the infill be printed with different settings for more foaming and less density than the shell? So that she'll is harder but has more or less a foam interior support?
You could in theory but it would require the temps on the hot end to ramp up and down so it would only make sense on fairly large prints. It would also probably require the slicer to have awarness of the material and how its flow rate needs to change at each temp. Also... since the material doesnt' flow out of the hot end instantaneously it would probably need to be done on a lower flow rate hot end with a low hot end volume (less plastic is held at that temperature inside the hot end itself). Anyway this would probably end up working against you as you are already achieving a light print by tuning the amount of infill.... if you reduce the strength of the infill further that really isn't going to have a positive effect on the print.
Since buying my idex I have been looking for a way to do different settings for infill for situations like this. Still not paying for s3d, but s3d could do this with an idex machine.
Great Video. You did not mention anything about fumes from LW-ASA. I understand that printing with ASA gives off fumes which should be vented outside.
@13:35 Double of .4 is ~.58 ... .8 is 4x the flow.
Might be a slower print, but could you print LW-ASA with a cooler skin and hotter infill?
The thinking is to have a strong shell with a light centre.
We already achieve most of that with low infill percentages.... running the infill hotter would just weaken the infill. And wouldn't be useful on small prints as the hot end wouldnt' be able to ramp up and down with the small volume of material per layer... and for large prints it really would be irrelevant since you can already run those prints with less infill to achieve the same result.
Can you spray paint ASA?
What about printing with a bigger nozzle for cosplay? Many who print for cosplay use 0.6 and 0.8 nozzles.
Yeah definitely. For larger pieces that don't have tons of surface details I see no reason why that wouldn't be an option.
How is its resistance to water ?
Iv printed a couple rc planes with esun lw pla but noticed it tends to break near structural areas. Is lw Asa stronger than lw pla?
No, as sad in this video ASA vs PLA, the ASA will shatter like glass and the same goes with LW-PLA vs LW-ASA. I printed a couple of RC printed plans for Eclipson and 3Dlabprint and still, I didn't see them using LW-ASA Or even recommend it. I think mostly is because you need that damn enclosure to print it but This LW-ASA had been in production for quite some time now and still, it's not popular with the 3D-printed Aircraft.
th-cam.com/video/oM24AnGZdo0/w-d-xo.html
What about printing lures for fly-fishing that float?
I love it. I dont think it would be hard to paint this material either if you want to coat them in something vibrant.
@05:23 "Step Printer, I'm stuck!" - *ModBot*
Think this could make a good wind turbine?
I wonder how this material would react to vapor smoothing.
Great idea! Have you tried this yet?
Over a year later and 44 euros just for shipping 1x 650g spool. Exciting filament but I think the shipping and availability will make it a non-stater for years
4:50 while not a 3d printing guru, plastic is not metal and doesn't carry similar properties. So, when a plastic seems hard and brittle it will still typically bend a bit and show those stress fractures. However because it has density to it the plastic resists just snapping directly like the ASA that is more or less airy. Now think of a piece of foam and a piece of cast iron as actually being similar. However, I'd bet if you smashed the pla with a hammer it would probably drive right through it rather than making it break in half.
May make good sound insulation
Like something that you would put in a subwoofer or speaker? or to keep sound in something like an enclosure?
.4 with a .4 yeah I’m interested
haha it breaks all the rules :p
a Huge Angry Bender Head from Futurama 8 )
LW-ASA Lithophane??
Hmm I wonder how it would look with the foaming. It may work but I feel like it could have an affect on details. Based on the image Stephan got the material seems porous when foamed.
Also I have been watch Video on 3d printing Gears. The whole thing with gears is fiction . Friction creates heat. Thats not hard to understand so of course a PLA printed gear is not going to last very long. Steal can hold the heat much longer than any plastic printer gear. Even in bearing's steal will freeze up if you don't use some liberating oil.
I have 5 Custom helmets I created (Cosplay Helmets) , If you ever need a STL to print. LMK!!!!!!!
Ooh just seeing this! Thank you so much I may end up reaching out :)
Why all iron man cosplayers make it out of PLA+ or similar is because it takes a tength of the print time and learning time to print it perfectly. Almost no failures. No warping. No curling. No struggles. The ~30% saved weight is nothing ot a cosplayer generally speaking. The armor pieces you show off here weighing almost nothing compared to a single backpack. There is no weight to speak out here that compensates for the extra difficulty of printing. There's a reason almost no cosplayers use ASA. It took me a month to dial in ASA to be able to print an iron man helmet with zero artifacts, curling or general warping. It's extremely difficult. ASA is glorious at printing smaller, usuall flat, mechanical parts against the bed plate. Larger spheroids, helmets and breastplates is a mess with zero tolerande for piece alignment is a mess with ASA. This is the real reason people still use mostly PLA. You just press print and what you saw in the slicer is what you get. Boom done. Now they can go to the convention while you are still figuring out difference alignments of the ASA, how many pieces you must cut it up in, how to support it hard enough and trying to cope with all the issues with the material.
ASA isnt impossible to print with. It's just not adapted to large cosplay armours. It's 100% made for small flat mechanical parts and it's INSANELY good at it. I've used my ASA scraper for 2 years and it's not even damaged. It's the best material ever. But it's really not made for large cosplay pieces. It's the wrong thermoplastic for that.
Damn, That is some expensive filament...This user is so damn poor...
You do have to remember you get twice as much due to the foaming. Still not cheap but for a specialty filament the foaming really allows you to get quite a few prints out of it.
@@ModBotArmy I am getting into RC cars and thought of using this stuff.
Thirsty firsty