Good detail there William, I'm pretty sure the tie bars should be straight though, they can get bent by less careful previous owners careless jacking! Keep up the good work!
Hi mate, part of me wondered this, but when i checked another set i have they are also bent, so assumed that this was correct. but of a pain. i have a set of adjustable tie bars but think its a little overkill on this build. i will stick with this for now and look to change for straight ones when funds become available. thanks for watching and thanks for the comment, it's greatly appreciated.
I founded just today yours videos, and its wonderfull how many things i was missing... i love that you explain everything clearly without missing the torque specification, nice done!
I envy you guys so much,it hurts. In south africa we are scrapping old classics as parts are not available for them.i was forced to reuse old mains and big ends and points as there are no supplies.
Hi thanks for vid. How do you tighten the nut securing the front tie bar bushes (to sub frame) on the car. No room for torque wrench! I tightened the nut then the bush expanded slightly out of the domed washer. Is this too far? Nut wasn’t that tight.
@@surfjon67 the saying in the trade tight is tight too tight is f**ked. You dont want to be swinging off the spanner but don't want it lose either. Tighten till there is resistance.
I'm going to say no as you need to removed the front mount backwards to remove from the subframe the issue you have with without removing the rear mount you wount be able to remove from the car.. it's one nut and one bolt holding this on. Better to remove in my opinion :)
nice video. i have started to rebuild a Austin mini 1000 from 1989 and have mutch help from your videos. grtz from belgium.
Excellent and thanks very much
Good detail there William, I'm pretty sure the tie bars should be straight though, they can get bent by less careful previous owners careless jacking! Keep up the good work!
Hi mate, part of me wondered this, but when i checked another set i have they are also bent, so assumed that this was correct. but of a pain. i have a set of adjustable tie bars but think its a little overkill on this build. i will stick with this for now and look to change for straight ones when funds become available. thanks for watching and thanks for the comment, it's greatly appreciated.
I founded just today yours videos, and its wonderfull how many things i was missing... i love that you explain everything clearly without missing the torque specification, nice done!
Thank you very much, I try my best to get as much info as possible without making it dull
William, Nicely explained and easy to follow! I‘m sure you will get lots of views on this suspension build. Cheers Dave
Thanks Dave, much appreciated. i enjoyed making this one. upper arms up next. then the build stops again for a little job. coming this weekend
Great video, lower arms are sided taper for lower ball joint must face correct direction keep up the great presentations
Yes I knew I made this error after it went live and watched mini toms video... doh! I've put an error video up this evening
William Murfitt only that person can make an error who is workong on something. :)
I envy you guys so much,it hurts.
In south africa we are scrapping old classics as parts are not available for them.i was forced to reuse old mains and big ends and points as there are no supplies.
Oh man, that sounds terrible. If you need parts lots of the uk based suppliers will ship worldwide
Good informative video. But don't use grease as it deteriorate bushes you need rubber grease which is safe
When removing the arm I will wipe this clean
Hi William big hole in taper should be on on the top cheers
Yes, gutted to have gotten this wrong but I'm glad I uploaded the video as I'm sure many sill make this mistake also
Hi thanks for vid. How do you tighten the nut securing the front tie bar bushes (to sub frame) on the car. No room for torque wrench! I tightened the nut then the bush expanded slightly out of the domed washer. Is this too far? Nut wasn’t that tight.
Yes room is limited, I try to do them tight
@@WilliamMurfitt thanks! Million dollar question. How tight is tight without a torque wrench 😄
@@surfjon67 the saying in the trade tight is tight too tight is f**ked. You dont want to be swinging off the spanner but don't want it lose either. Tighten till there is resistance.
nice and clean instructions..
Cheers Randy :)
Thanks! Just to check the tie bar bushes both have the stepped sides facing each other?
Yes that's correct they sit in a recess
Thanks!
@@surfjon67 you're welcome
Nice videos. But tie bars should be straight and arms are sided due to taper hole for ball joints.
Hi mate yes I realised after the upload I'll be filming an update tonight making comment on my errors
Is the bolt hole on lower arm threaded? I am trying to remove this bolt and it will not hammer out. 😫
Wind the nut onto the thread a few turns and then tap it until it moves there isnt a thread in the subframe but they can be stiff to remove
Can you replace the bushings whilst the arm is still attached at the other end?
I'm going to say no as you need to removed the front mount backwards to remove from the subframe the issue you have with without removing the rear mount you wount be able to remove from the car.. it's one nut and one bolt holding this on. Better to remove in my opinion :)
William Murfitt Thanks mate 👌🏻
@@henryportwood9364 not a problem glad I could be of help, even if my reply was a bit waffling
How tight is the diagonal tie rod nut should be?
The tightness I didnt know the approved fitment but went with the industry standard of tight is tight and too tight is f*****
Yes sir ! 👍👍👍
Thanks
very useful!
Thanks mate 😁
Tie bars should be dead straight, or they will effect suspension geometry.
I know this now. What a difference they make when changed to arrow straight bars
In this video, i install the lower arms & tie bars / tie rods. it's coming together now.