Great & wise mod. to your compressor. Keeping a tank dry will add decades to its life, reduce air system corrosion, longer tool life & functionality (like media blasters, paint sprayers, & plasma cutters perform best with dry air.) I searched the web several years ago & found actual explosions of compressed air tanks & photos from death investigations due to those rusted, rotten tanks! All reasons to never allow tanks to hold or have water contact. The insides are raw unpainted/uncoated steel ! Paul from S. Central Tx. P.S.: Shout out to a fellow believer on Y.T., THE Compressor Guru, Bud Stiner. Amen!
One other thing I would suggest: Add an electric fan directly to the aftercooler. The 1 inch + gap between the cooler & the flywheel fan blades means most air goes Around the cooler, (not thru the cooler, because it is restrictive by design.) This will really boost cooler efficiency, further cooling the air, condensing more moisture out! Ok, God bless!
it is the best improvement you can do to any compressor, the tank should stay cool so the remaining water will precipitate. The best type of filter you can use is a coalescing filter, it works a bit differently and it collects very fine mist and precipitate it so it is the best type to use. very good job.
Pretty much have the same setup with same cooler. Upper line cracked after 1 1/2 yrs. It cracks right where the line goes into side frame of cooler. 3 different metals come together right there. On the second one. A standoff was installed on belt cage just before entering cooler. The standoff consists of 1/4" gym mat, wood and 1/2" rubber insulated clamp. Whether this will help with cracking of second one. I don't know. Keep your old piping setup just in case. This way you can easily switch back over until repair can be made. The setup really does work great at removing moisture.
I have that same exact HF air compressor. If it still has the original pressure switch (P/N 1312100459-IM) it is adjusted to kick on at 135psi and shut off at 165psi. Your gauge is probably fine.
There are a dozen ways to do this, but yours is simple and clean. Nice touch on the regulator and water separator. Just to ask, but you had in line pipe connectors with the ferrules (In England they call them "Olives"), but at home improvement stores now April 2023, I was purchasing some 3/8" T's, they have changed them completely and nicely, they look odd and confusing. In Nebraska we have 3 companies for home improvement and each had the same. I am not a pro plumber but these are strange departure to the style I used for 4+ decades. DK, ASE Master, Retired.
Interesting. I have a 60 gallon Campbell-Hausfeld myself I got from a scratch & dent sale in Kentucky where they're made. Only thing wrong with mine was the cage was bent like something had smashed into it. No problem, I just took the cage off of it and threw it away. No kids around here and I'm not likely to get around it's moving parts before shutting the breaker off. I put a dryer on it, but no larger than my garage is, instead of running pipes around the garage I just went with a Lincoln hose reel and 100 ft. of hose. That way I can air up the vehicle tires that I can no longer fit in the garage for all the benches and tools, LOL! Just picked up an IR air hammer yesterday to drive out a stubborn broken sheer bolt from the auger of my old snowblower. I'll get to try that out later this morning.
Brass is typically rated for 150 PSI. Mine kicks off at 160 too and I've had no problems. I do not regulate the air pressure to the tank, only out of the tank. I have 2 water separators inline with the output of the cooler, with a dual auto drain before the unloader so it works automatically, piped back into the tank, piped to a custom built 2" Galvanized Rigid water trap and desiccant dryer back to a triple filter with regulator and out to the shop feed. Works GREAT !!
@@pug335 And I would be more than happy to provide that as well as some tips if you choose to build one yourself. As the 1st one leaked, mostly due to bad welding on the site glasses I installed, but, cant see the desiccant any fookin way, and I had leftover pipe so re-threaded the ends and built a better one. Waiting on a leader hose to install. It is not installed yet.
@@anonimous2451I'm looking at AC condensers for cars, but maybe entertaining the idea of this for it's size, ease of installation ,and put a fan on it. Would you trust it to 175psi? Think it's stout enough, or am I going to lose an eye from across the shop on a Monday morning?
@@georgesrisomsak9650 AC CONDENSERS TYPICALLY NEED A LARGER FIN VOLUME. The Derale 15300 is too small probably for that. It is good for oil cooling and Air Compressor cooling the pumped air to eleiminate water in the tank. But there are some other steps involved for that as well. I used a double moisture trap canister to isolate the water vapors from cooled air cause the 260-300 degree air off the air compressor creates a large volume of water that has many side effects. Water in Tank, Water in lines and for painting and laser cutting machines that kills the project with poor results.
@@anonimous2451 yes sir, that's exactly what I'm trying to do on my air compressor, but I average around 150-175 psi tank pressure. I want this as it'll fit nicely out of the way, and easier to adapt to the tank and compressor head. If you feel it is stout enough for my slightly higher working pressure, I think I'll go ahead and get it ordered..
I have watched a lot of similar videos, and I am puzzled as to why everyone insists on using rigid copper or aluminum line? I would use flexible hose for sure...
I have a 9hp gas powered, 30lb tank. It has a 1" npt outlet on compressor to tank. I'm concerned about the pressure if I was to go direct to rad first. That's 1" not 1/2" or 3/4" like everyone else's compressor seems to be.
I have the same setup. But Ive blown out two water separators at 1st run up. I am not looking to break another one. How did you initially set up yours for the 1st test to work properly? Did you have it full open?
@@jondoubleu1 the initial setup was only 3/4 open for the water separator. I have run it wide open since then with 0 issues. This is just a HF regulator/separator combo, nothing special but it works. I do drain it before and after using the compressor in the shop each day.
Dear Hot Rod Reverend do you have any idea How to keep cool the Compressor cylinders? Mine always get too hot when charging the airtank... Good Video anyway thank you!!
@@ppszabihun your compressor should have a fan, driven by a belt off the electric motor, that is moving air across the cylinders. The block and the head(s) will get hot because of friction - there is no way around that. The fan and the fins on your block and heads will help dissipate heat.
Those collars as you called them are actually called Ferrells. They are good for one use typically. But you see people reuse them. That poor fan is being staved for air being that close to the cabinet I bet. I built a cooler out of 3/4 inch copper pipe 25 years ago when it was affordable. I made 5 vertical lines connected at the top and at the bottom I had a T the on the bottom of the T I had a12 inch drop with a ball valve to drain the condensate. The horizontal line went to a 90 and up. Then horizontal to do the. Same on the next three lines. I had dry air and never had any water in the water separator. And that was on the ocean in Va Beach, VA. A high humidity place.
This is the way all compressors should be made from the factory. Why are they made so the steel tank is the water separator? I guess if it last a few yrs no one will think to blame the manufacturer for f'd up design. I just bought a lightly used Ingersol Rand air compressor and am going to do this mod on it. Only thing I'm going to do different is adapt the compression fittings to rubber hose so when I have to change the belt the rubber hose going to the after cooler will allow me to flex it out of the way enough to change belts. I'll have to see how I can do that.
Go for it - just remember that the rubber hose will have a lot of pressure each cycle. Don't know what clamps you are going to use or what fittings for a rubber hose but make it a good one! Yes - I guess it is just cost-cutting measures on not adding/installing an after cooler; but after a few months of this running my sandblaster and other shop tools I am IMPRESSED.
Bad choice going for compression fittings especially considering this application, respectfully. For high vibration environments, one should always utilize flared fitting for this very reason shown. Good effort overall and you're lucky it's 'sealing' at those pressures. I contend however, time will make those fittings likely fail, just be conscientious, though, I hope you truly have no issues in the long term.
The compressor and pump had compression fittings installed at the factory… I simply went with the same style since they have been trouble free all these years. My mistake for not seating them properly.
@@anonimous2451 Completely irrelevant to the mechanical structure of the two fittings' designation. Because it ‘works’ doesn’t mean it was correct. Look above the tree line here… There is a reason for each of their design.
I do not, this has been quite some time ago. The AN fittings were all that I had to order as far as hardware. The after cooler is readily available on Amazon and eBay.
@@mikeceli no idea. With the compressor running full bore for any length of time I cannot touch the inlet pipe without burning my hand. The outlet is cool to the touch. Next chance I get I will get my infrared thermometer out and check the numbers.
@@HotRodReverend but its the same amount of air and water going in the intake of the compressor that comes out the other end, but you wouldn't have to dry it at high pressure if you did it on the way in to the system, instead of doing it at high pressure in the system....
Mine did that too. I fixed it, but not at both ends turned it over and it broke the other inlet. Looking at some sort of high pressure hose between the compressor and intercooler.
Water travels with gravity. Why does no one run a down pipe with a drain when they immediately go up from the outlet on the compressor??? Water doesn't flow up. It's going back into the compressor head and not much is actually going uphill into the cooler. I understand you need the fan from the fly wheel which is why you come out from the head, tee off, with one going down for the water and letting the air go up into the cooler. And don't make the agreement that water hasn't had a chance to begin to condensate because when your compressor is cutting on every three or four minutes it's straight wet air. Just offering advise
The outlet from the compressor to the cooler is a low point in the piping. I would be concerned about water settling right there. I'd put a tee in with a drain valve to drain any water that may accumulate.
Regarding that pump outlet low point: #1) It is after the factory iron finned cooler which is below the actual pump outlet port. #2) Any moisture in the air at that low point is steam/vapor & rushes with the air into the new aftercooler. Once the pump stops & cools from non-use, perhap 1 or 2 droplets of water may be there. What harm will that do? It will sit there until the pump starts again & instantly blown up the copper pipe into the new aftercooler. Literally a non-issue in this setup. Cheers! Paul from S. Central Tx.
You have got to get that compressor away from that cabinet, preferably outside behind the shop so you don't have to listen to the loud compressor, I have a new 60 gallon compressor and i am building a 6ft x6ft enclosure behind my shop to put the compressor in the middle of and will go from there.
I am not sure I understand the plan, or the why. I don't see any problem with water in the tank. It must have a drain in the bottom. The reason for the air dryer or a way to get rid of the moisture in the line is for the equipment at the end of the line that need dry air without water. So it seems to me the tank is the first water remover. Then after the tank the second water remover, and then if needed a chiller.
@@charlieberger9740 Did that happen to you? Our cooler is doing just fine - even out here in the high desert of California. I would suggest you send your unit back if it is still under warranty.
Can you explain why you are adding this exact same negative comment to this and other similar videos? The cooler by Derale, has literally hundreds of 5 star ratings for a similar use. I have no affiliation with them and it seems to be a good product.
![SAFEPLANET - ดาวเคราะห์ [ THE PLANET ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4X1XL3I_k3c/mqdefault.jpg)
Great & wise mod. to your compressor. Keeping a tank dry will add decades to its life, reduce air system corrosion, longer tool life & functionality (like media blasters, paint sprayers, & plasma cutters perform best with dry air.) I searched the web several years ago & found actual explosions of compressed air tanks & photos from death investigations due to those rusted, rotten tanks! All reasons to never allow tanks to hold or have water contact. The insides are raw unpainted/uncoated steel ! Paul from S. Central Tx.
P.S.: Shout out to a fellow believer on Y.T., THE Compressor Guru, Bud Stiner. Amen!
One other thing I would suggest: Add an electric fan directly to the aftercooler. The 1 inch + gap between the cooler & the flywheel fan blades means most air goes Around the cooler, (not thru the cooler, because it is restrictive by design.) This will really boost cooler efficiency, further cooling the air, condensing more moisture out! Ok, God bless!
it is the best improvement you can do to any compressor, the tank should stay cool so the remaining water will precipitate.
The best type of filter you can use is a coalescing filter, it works a bit differently and it collects very fine mist and precipitate it so it is the best type to use.
very good job.
Pretty much have the same setup with same cooler. Upper line cracked after 1 1/2 yrs. It cracks right where the line goes into side frame of cooler. 3 different metals come together right there.
On the second one. A standoff was installed on belt cage just before entering cooler. The standoff consists of 1/4" gym mat, wood and 1/2" rubber insulated clamp.
Whether this will help with cracking of second one. I don't know.
Keep your old piping setup just in case. This way you can easily switch back over until repair can be made.
The setup really does work great at removing moisture.
Did that about a year ago. After a few cycles no more water in the Maine tank.
Nice setup, hey I used a oil filled gauge from lowes, in the air tool section. It reads higher and is rock solid
thanks for letting me know!
I have that same exact HF air compressor. If it still has the original pressure switch (P/N 1312100459-IM) it is adjusted to kick on at 135psi and shut off at 165psi. Your gauge is probably fine.
There are a dozen ways to do this, but yours is simple and clean. Nice touch on the regulator and water separator.
Just to ask, but you had in line pipe connectors with the ferrules (In England they call them "Olives"), but at home improvement stores now April 2023, I was purchasing some 3/8" T's, they have changed them completely and nicely, they look odd and confusing. In Nebraska we have 3 companies for home improvement and each had the same. I am not a pro plumber but these are strange departure to the style I used for 4+ decades.
DK, ASE Master, Retired.
Interesting. I have a 60 gallon Campbell-Hausfeld myself I got from a scratch & dent sale in Kentucky where they're made. Only thing wrong with mine was the cage was bent like something had smashed into it. No problem, I just took the cage off of it and threw it away. No kids around here and I'm not likely to get around it's moving parts before shutting the breaker off. I put a dryer on it, but no larger than my garage is, instead of running pipes around the garage I just went with a Lincoln hose reel and 100 ft. of hose. That way I can air up the vehicle tires that I can no longer fit in the garage for all the benches and tools, LOL! Just picked up an IR air hammer yesterday to drive out a stubborn broken sheer bolt from the auger of my old snowblower. I'll get to try that out later this morning.
What part of KY? Im im Louisville. Im going to fo this to my compressor but mine is a commercial air compressor
@@sircoolbox They're made in Leitchfield, west of E-Town. A few miles down the WK parkway.
Brass is typically rated for 150 PSI. Mine kicks off at 160 too and I've had no problems. I do not regulate the air pressure to the tank, only out of the tank. I have 2 water separators inline with the output of the cooler, with a dual auto drain before the unloader so it works automatically, piped back into the tank, piped to a custom built 2" Galvanized Rigid water trap and desiccant dryer back to a triple filter with regulator and out to the shop feed. Works GREAT !!
Sounds like a nice setup. Would like to do the same. Wouldn't mind seeing some pics?
@@pug335 And I would be more than happy to provide that as well as some tips if you choose to build one yourself. As the 1st one leaked, mostly due to bad welding on the site glasses I installed, but, cant see the desiccant any fookin way, and I had leftover pipe so re-threaded the ends and built a better one. Waiting on a leader hose to install. It is not installed yet.
@@anonimous2451I'm looking at AC condensers for cars, but maybe entertaining the idea of this for it's size, ease of installation ,and put a fan on it. Would you trust it to 175psi? Think it's stout enough, or am I going to lose an eye from across the shop on a Monday morning?
@@georgesrisomsak9650 AC CONDENSERS TYPICALLY NEED A LARGER FIN VOLUME. The Derale 15300 is too small probably for that. It is good for oil cooling and Air Compressor cooling the pumped air to eleiminate water in the tank. But there are some other steps involved for that as well. I used a double moisture trap canister to isolate the water vapors from cooled air cause the 260-300 degree air off the air compressor creates a large volume of water that has many side effects. Water in Tank, Water in lines and for painting and laser cutting machines that kills the project with poor results.
@@anonimous2451 yes sir, that's exactly what I'm trying to do on my air compressor, but I average around 150-175 psi tank pressure.
I want this as it'll fit nicely out of the way, and easier to adapt to the tank and compressor head. If you feel it is stout enough for my slightly higher working pressure, I think I'll go ahead and get it ordered..
I am thinking about this type of setup, but the area is not heated. I can see the water collecting in the coils and freezing.
Nice 55 Ford @ 7:05 mark. I've got a 56 Fairlane under restoration.
There is a lot on my channel and even more on my website, HotRodReverend.com. Check it out, the blog is pretty big
I have watched a lot of similar videos, and I am puzzled as to why everyone insists on using rigid copper or aluminum line? I would use flexible hose for sure...
I have a 9hp gas powered, 30lb tank. It has a 1" npt outlet on compressor to tank. I'm concerned about the pressure if I was to go direct to rad first. That's 1" not 1/2" or 3/4" like everyone else's compressor seems to be.
@@anthonyrochon3907 it has a 300 psi burst strength if that helps you to know
I have the same setup. But Ive blown out two water separators at 1st run up. I am not looking to break another one. How did you initially set up yours for the 1st test to work properly? Did you have it full open?
@@jondoubleu1 the initial setup was only 3/4 open for the water separator. I have run it wide open since then with 0 issues. This is just a HF regulator/separator combo, nothing special but it works. I do drain it before and after using the compressor in the shop each day.
Dear Hot Rod Reverend do you have any idea How to keep cool the Compressor cylinders? Mine always get too hot when charging the airtank... Good Video anyway thank you!!
@@ppszabihun your compressor should have a fan, driven by a belt off the electric motor, that is moving air across the cylinders. The block and the head(s) will get hot because of friction - there is no way around that. The fan and the fins on your block and heads will help dissipate heat.
Great improvement
Yep, takes a lickin’ and keeps on tickin’!
7:04 What timing of your Supervisor has...."...my drain was open..." as she envisions her electric meter spinning.
Did this guy not list the parts and link to buy like everyone else on TH-cam does???
Where to get those springs and what are they called?
Those collars as you called them are actually called Ferrells. They are good for one use typically. But you see people reuse them. That poor fan is being staved for air being that close to the cabinet I bet. I built a cooler out of 3/4 inch copper pipe 25 years ago when it was affordable. I made 5 vertical lines connected at the top and at the bottom I had a T the on the bottom of the T I had a12 inch drop with a ball valve to drain the condensate. The horizontal line went to a 90 and up. Then horizontal to do the. Same on the next three lines. I had dry air and never had any water in the water separator. And that was on the ocean in Va Beach, VA. A high humidity place.
for 99% of purposes just get a JIC fitting, only difference is thread engagement the hydraulic shop told us .
Thank you, will look into this. The setup is holding up well after more than a year of use.
This is the way all compressors should be made from the factory. Why are they made so the steel tank is the water separator? I guess if it last a few yrs no one will think to blame the manufacturer for f'd up design. I just bought a lightly used Ingersol Rand air compressor and am going to do this mod on it.
Only thing I'm going to do different is adapt the compression fittings to rubber hose so when I have to change the belt the rubber hose going to the after cooler will allow me to flex it out of the way enough to change belts. I'll have to see how I can do that.
Go for it - just remember that the rubber hose will have a lot of pressure each cycle. Don't know what clamps you are going to use or what fittings for a rubber hose but make it a good one! Yes - I guess it is just cost-cutting measures on not adding/installing an after cooler; but after a few months of this running my sandblaster and other shop tools I am IMPRESSED.
I decided to cut off the 8AN fittings and use another type.
I dont know if the radiator piping is 1/2 inch.......but if is smaller the recovery time off the pumpmay be longer ??
Could be, hard to say. It works very well is all I know.
Bad choice going for compression fittings especially considering this application, respectfully. For high vibration environments, one should always utilize flared fitting for this very reason shown. Good effort overall and you're lucky it's 'sealing' at those pressures. I contend however, time will make those fittings likely fail, just be conscientious, though, I hope you truly have no issues in the long term.
The compressor and pump had compression fittings installed at the factory… I simply went with the same style since they have been trouble free all these years. My mistake for not seating them properly.
My air compressor also had compression fittings from the factory
What those 2 said. ^^^^^^^Above. Flare fittings also vibrate loose if not properly tightened, FYI. Mine's only been running since 1995 with no issues.
@@anonimous2451 Completely irrelevant to the mechanical structure of the two fittings' designation. Because it ‘works’ doesn’t mean it was correct. Look above the tree line here… There is a reason for each of their design.
@@AXNJXN1 Another Jackass expert that insist his way is the ONLY WAY. Good Job Jackass.
Why are you using a regulator going into the tank i know its a filter but why use a regulator
at the store, the filter with or without the regulator was this same price the day I was there so why not....
Do you have a parts list
I do not, this has been quite some time ago. The AN fittings were all that I had to order as far as hardware. The after cooler is readily available on Amazon and eBay.
What is the temperature going in to and out of the cooler?
@@mikeceli no idea. With the compressor running full bore for any length of time I cannot touch the inlet pipe without burning my hand. The outlet is cool to the touch. Next chance I get I will get my infrared thermometer out and check the numbers.
I hate compression fittings on air compressors . I use flare or AN fittings on everything Heat loosens Compression fittings
My t30 Ingersol Rand came with a oem. Cooler
That looks pretty good but your compressor needs more room to breathe and run cooler. You should have at least 12-16” on the back for proper air flow.
Yep, temporary setup while we waited to move from Ohio to California. Much more space now.
Why don't we put a large low pressure desiccant dryer on the compressor intake? No need to worry about a large pressure vessel...
If you want to replace the desiccant material each week go ahead - I like low maintenance.
@@HotRodReverend but its the same amount of air and water going in the intake of the compressor that comes out the other end, but you wouldn't have to dry it at high pressure if you did it on the way in to the system, instead of doing it at high pressure in the system....
Any issue with the cooler pipe cracking because of the vibration? My top/inlet just cracked.
Everything is just fine so far
Mine did that too. I fixed it, but not at both ends turned it over and it broke the other inlet. Looking at some sort of high pressure hose between the compressor and intercooler.
I likes it.
An't after cooler it's a pre cooler.
After cooler is after the compressor's tank
Water travels with gravity. Why does no one run a down pipe with a drain when they immediately go up from the outlet on the compressor??? Water doesn't flow up. It's going back into the compressor head and not much is actually going uphill into the cooler. I understand you need the fan from the fly wheel which is why you come out from the head, tee off, with one going down for the water and letting the air go up into the cooler. And don't make the agreement that water hasn't had a chance to begin to condensate because when your compressor is cutting on every three or four minutes it's straight wet air. Just offering advise
The outlet from the compressor to the cooler is a low point in the piping. I would be concerned about water settling right there. I'd put a tee in with a drain valve to drain any water that may accumulate.
100% agree 👍
Regarding that pump outlet low point: #1) It is after the factory iron finned cooler which is below the actual pump outlet port. #2) Any moisture in the air at that low point is steam/vapor & rushes with the air into the new aftercooler. Once the pump stops & cools from non-use, perhap 1 or 2 droplets of water may be there. What harm will that do? It will sit there until the pump starts again & instantly blown up the copper pipe into the new aftercooler. Literally a non-issue in this setup. Cheers! Paul from S. Central Tx.
Why not use a 100 foot pex all coiled up behind the compressor same thing
my girlfriend gives me the same look
LOL
You have got to get that compressor away from that cabinet, preferably outside behind the shop so you don't have to listen to the loud compressor, I have a new 60 gallon compressor and i am building a 6ft x6ft enclosure behind my shop to put the compressor in the middle of and will go from there.
I am not sure I understand the plan, or the why. I don't see any problem with water in the tank. It must have a drain in the bottom. The reason for the air dryer or a way to get rid of the moisture in the line is for the equipment at the end of the line that need dry air without water. So it seems to me the tank is the first water remover. Then after the tank the second water remover, and then if needed a chiller.
Cooler failure after 3 days
@@charlieberger9740 Did that happen to you? Our cooler is doing just fine - even out here in the high desert of California. I would suggest you send your unit back if it is still under warranty.
Can you explain why you are adding this exact same negative comment to this and other similar videos? The cooler by Derale, has literally hundreds of 5 star ratings for a similar use. I have no affiliation with them and it seems to be a good product.
Just buy an air dryer...
I would rather keep the moisture out of the tank - an aftercooler, set up before the air enters the tank, will keep the tank dry.
My Shulz Air Dryer recommends the use of an aftercooler for best performance.