Please note that the 5/8 pipe from the pump to tank is sized to ensure that the pump(comptessor) can provide the designed CFM to the tank. If you now connect a smaller diameter pipe (the cooler) in between the pump (compressor) and tank.....you nowdecrease the CFM going into the tank.....which can increase the recovery time to the max air cutoff. Maximum CFM is critical to the operation of certain tools....like a DA sander....sandblaster....if you don't want the compessor running on and off constantly....or always running. However if MAXIMUM Cfm is not a requirement then ALL IS WELL.
Very useful video, thanks! Recommending to tighten NPT threaded connectors as hard as you can into cast filter bodies is not the best idea though...they will snap or burst along the casting lines if you go too far. That is why teflon tape is a better idea, the thickness of the tape gives you more ability to clock an elbow to where you need it. Been using 5 to 7 wraps on 1/2" NPT on any kind of air service for 30 years....Loctite 575 is kind of overkill on not the best choice. It is also not recommended to use any kind of sealant on the threads between the nut and body on a compression fitting, the ferrule is holding the tube and it would take unbelievable pressures to loosen that nut. Not being critical, just offering the advice as I am an instrument fitter by trade.
Thanks. Good to know. I was using Teflon early on this compressor to do the other maintenance parts and they leaked since I didn’t tighten enough on clocking the fittings. That’s why I switched to the 545 since I had that laying around for some hydraulic fittings I’m doing.
@T0tenkampf No, do NOT use teflon or sealant with AN, flare, or compression. The threading is designed to form metal on metal. NPT is the opposite and always requires a teflon or sealantant. Don't respond with a contrary comment. I'm just relaying the engineer rules.
Finally, a guy who cools the air BEFORE it goes into the main tank...good job. Now add an auto spitter and that water in the first separator will be maintenance free.
@@yanndebonne7541 Cooling the air before it goes into the tank keeps the water condensed in the cooler tubing. An auto spitter is just a valve set at the lowest point in the cooler that opens at a set PSI and automatically lets out a quick burst of air and lets the water out with it. You don't have to manually drain the system.
friend used a couple Muffin fans from a computer server as they are 110 volt. they got a cooking pan the size of the cooler and installed the fans in it and over the cooler. powered off the pressure switch, Used rubber hose to absorb any vibration the compressor induced. they put amsoil compressor oil in the compressor as well, on the bottom of the tank they added a couple foot drain line so water collects in that not the tank.
Great video. After having done this as described in the video, I recommend buying the aluminum tubing in straight lengths. I spent a great deal of time trying to straighten the tubing to push the brass fittings on without pushing the tubes out of round. In addition, it is much more difficult to set the curved tubing into the flaring tool and have it perpendicular to the tool. I'd also recommend spending just a bit more and getting a proper tubing bender rather than the spring bender set.
thank you much for this video, me and my son did all this today in our shop, used your material list. I went well and its AMAZING how much cooler the air is and a LOT less water, thanks again
After watching several vids on this I followed your instructions. The double flares were a challenge, went through 3 different flare tools before finding a good one. 95 degrees i Florida. 280 degree air going into the cooler and 90 degree coming out.
Excellent, the cooler is great addition some people don't pay attention to the moisture in the system it attacks the air tools gums up the system. Trouble free is something to strive for .
This is the BEST video out there that shows you how to install a air dryer on a compressor in my opinion. Because of your video buddy I have gained confidence to do this job. Thank you so much buddy. I gave your video a gigantic thumbs up, take care buddy. 👍👍👍👍
I've watched a lot of these videos, yours explains the process really well. One thing - I don't understand why everyone goes through all the trouble of mounting these on their compressors, between the motor and the tank? Why not put the aftercooler AFTER the tank instead of putting it between the motor and the tank? Pop an auto drain on the bottom of the tank, let the tank and auto drain do the job they're designed to do, collecting most of the moisture at the tank .... then have the aftercooler inline right after the tank, cooling the air before it hits the filter.
It’s due to the temperature coming out of the compressor, 250F. Dropping it before it hits the tank minimizes moisture in tank and in airstream. You rather catch before the tank. A cooler after the tank to the filter won’t do anything. The point of the cooler is to get a high Delta T. In industrial applications, they use refrigerated dryers to do same before the air hits the 1,000+ gallon tanks.
Extracting the heat before the tank give the air one more place to drop moisture, making the air that much drier. A cooler after the tank will work but only on extended run times when the tank gets warm/hot. I used to run 50' of air hose looped to condense the water after the tank and before the dryer, it works but again only if the air leaving the tank is warmer than ambient.
I’m not concerned about moisture. I’m concerned about burning up my pressure regulator from heat! I might put it after the tank and not install a water separator. I use my compressor to bubble up water in my water well. I produce about 15 gallons a minute with all mechanical components above ground.
The air movement thru the cooler isn’t under high pressure that long like in the tank, but the Derale is rated for 250psi. Once the tank is full and motor shuts down, the circuit releases pressure and tank has a check valve to hold the tank pressure.
Thx, I learned alot! Was gonna make a copper pipe manifold after the compressor but that won''t prevent water from entering the tank first. I do run an auto drain on my tank but if I can limit the water going in, it will give the tank increased longevity as well as less water in the final filter/s.
It is about the best modification you can do to any air compressor, this conceal the water condensation at the firat trap and not in the lines. On any compressor, if you want to have water exempt air circuit, your tank must be kept cool so it traps the remaining water. On my compressor, I done things a bit differently, I used a big regrigeration flat evaporator as heat exchanger and I used an automatic pressure activated tank drain to flush that portion of the circuit every time the compressor stops operating and it is surprizing to see the quantity of water that is collected at each compression cycle. Very good job
Its best to cut any tubing that you want to flare with a hack saw as tubing cutters can work harden the metal and many times cause your flare to split. Sometimes it splits after its connected. Brake lines are the worst about this when double flaring. Most double flare kits in years past would tell you this in the instructions now that info got lost somewhere. Thanks for posting, Great idea. DS
I must have missed this video the first time I looked for it. I too have been wanting an aftercooler on my compressor. I also found the barstock 90 on the pump head to be impossible to turn. Lately, I've seen videos showing chemicals to soften the superglue holding that fitting in place. They recommend acetone and chlorinated brake/carburator cleaner to soften it. I'm still trying to find out how long it takes to dissolve. I'm pretty sure the paint over the joint needs to be removed before starting.
My almost 30 year old 60 gallon 120 psi 240VAC air compressor has had zero maintenance and out of concern 10 years ago I added an air filter/dryer and I have never seen water or garbage collect in either component. This is an interesting upgrade and I am sure it's mandatory for Florida but not in dry cold climates. I feel bad about abusing it but damn for seeing use every weekend that is pretty decent return on investment. I used to want a better one for air tools but I am almost all electric tools now. It may last my lifetime or explode and end my life not certain.
I needed dry reliable air for media blasting and painting. But in FL they tank condensates from just holding air and pressure. I manually hit the ball valve drain every few days for good measure. I hydro tested this to 270 psi for 6 hrs to make sure it won’t explode on me.
@@douganderson7002 honest, I've painted enamel with it also and not had issues or moisture in trap. Periodically my tank drains a little water, nothing like what other's get elsewhere across the country.
@@thereplacementfordisplacement we have very dry winters but humid summers here, so I have a dehumidifier running 24/7 keeping my shop usually around 30-35%. I build very little water in my air compressors. When possible, I think dehumidifiers are a good addition to keep surface rust from developing on equipment in humid environment, and it feeds dryer air into air compressors.
I fill the tubes with water, cap the ends, and put it in my freezer, when its frozen I take the pipe out and bend it to shape and it wont kink. Remove the caps and the ice melts.
I was about to buy one of these, the 15800 with pre-mounted fan but saw a few reviews where guys have already gone through a few of these and had blown some seals, meaning it lasted for awhile then didn’t. I don’t know if corrosion from the hot water vapor may have anything to do with it but can assume so. That said, I’ve decided to build one of these on a 2ft x 4ft vertical grid using 1” copper pipe spaced 3” apart and zig-zag back and forth moving from top left (inlet side) down to bottom right (outlet side) . So there will be 16-18 sections of 24” long pipe. The bottom right will have a T with a drain at bottom, then a 48” vertical pipe where the top will mount to a second hydraulic hose that goes to an auto-drain, and then from there it will go to another flexible hose into the tank. If needed, I can mount a standard 24” house box fan on the upper hot portion as well one lower down too if ever needed. Overall I also think this will cost about $50 less than a Derale with fan unit. Best of all, if anything goes wrong, I can hopefully resolder a joint rather than having to buy a condenser unit again.
I looked into doing the rows of pipe and it added up in costs for fittings. I thing the cooler is best benefit for costs. If you slope it properly, all the moisture will naturally drain to the trap.
That seems like a lot of copper pipe, about 35' by my calculations. 1" copper, even M pipe, is about $60 for a 10' length. Then there are all the elbows and other fittings. What did all that cost?
Orient the compressor to allow better airflow through the cooler. With the cooler facing, and up close to the wall, air has to flow around it rather than through it. I like the install.
I up vote this advice. I have the larger 80gal model and the installation instructions call for a minimum of 12" between the fan to the wall. It would be interesting to see if doing so would cool the air a little more. Good video!
Tip put a T and a drop with a ball valve as a trap after the condesor a lot of you water will fall here being emptied with a quick ball vavle turn. This will make you water trap not have to work as hard. If your useing a desicent dryer will keep you from having to back it dry as often.
Great video, but I wished you would have slowed down on the cooler install and flaring process. Did you use a 37 degree or 45 degree flaring tool ? Thanks
The flare is 45 which is pretty standard. AN is 37 I think but for this connection it is fine. The circuit only holds pressure during charging so air moves fast enough that my minor leaks don’t matter. Once the tank is full the charging circuit releases all pressure.
I install this exact samee model and it just leaking from the one of the pipes welding, now im looking for a better one, and i see amazon customes having the same problem, now lookin for a better built one.
I wouldn't use red loctite as a thread sealant on soft metals like brass or aluminum. In future, I recommend TFE paste on any threaded connections. Its gas and oil resistant and only dries to the touch- but will allow you to unscrew it later. I use it instead of teflon tape on all of my air tool fittings at work, as well as multiple automotive applications. Its gas and oil resistant as well.
I would have put the springs on the other side. Or maybe half on each side. Also burn the ends to make them hold tighter on the stopper so you call pull them tight. Great video though. Thanks
Cause you are trying to cool the compressed air, not intake air. Reducing air temp before the tank also condenses moisture which is trapped by the water trap we install before tank. For additional drying on tank output, I added the desiccant inline dryer.
It's actually better that you didn't turn the elbow fitting coming out of the pump head, you want it facing down like you have it so that the water in the cooler and tubing doesn't flow back into the head when it's off.
The after cooler does a good job. The output filter driers are for any residual moisture inside tank. I also do a quick open close of the drain ball valve at the bottom once a week, it spits a quick burst of moisture everytime.
AN 37° flare and industrial 37° flare fittings function identically. In many cases, they appear to be functionally interchangeable, but they are not. What this means is that while the products may look similar, you must not use an industrial 37° flare fitting design as a direct substitution.
Yea I think it's 45 degrees vs 37. For this project they work because it doesn't have to be 100% air tight. The charge circuit is only pressurized during fill. Once the fill is complete, the circuit releases all pressure.
Hi there. Im putting a cooler on my air compressor as well. Im also using a water and oil trap on mine. I was thinking it would be good to stop any oil before it gets into the tank. The oil trap has a regulator but i was just going to turn that up so the full amount of air gets past it so the tank will be filled up as quick as possible. Do you reckon that is ok to do ? Cheers for the great video
Hey man just watched the whole video and I’m wondering if this set up would work for my puma 60 gal 5hp air compressor it looks a lil different setup but let me know if you think it’s will work for my compressor
Just a thought here; the placement of the cooling coil causes the cooling fan to blow very hot air across the cylinders thereby greatly reducing cylinder cooling. I realize you now have cooler air coming out but still may be causing overheating of the cylinders and possibly premature damage. ?
Negligible affects on the cylinders or the second stage coolers on the tubes. This is actually how OEM optional after coolers are also mounted. With the short duration of air movement during charging, it shouldn’t really affect anything especially with the wide range of ambient temps the compressor is already exposed to during normal ops. Main goal of the cooler is to let air make multiple passes thru and get a delta T to let moisture condensate and drip into the trap.
Try moving the vacuum to the rear port. That left side port is the inlet. HF and others have it wrong in the manual ON PURPOSE. It’s a patent/trademark issue.
Great job. But why cut the original pipe just to connect to new pipes? Why not just make the pipes one piece? Less connectors means less places to leak.
No telling of air leaks since it’s a charge circuit that is moving high velocity during tank charge. Once compressor stops the circuit unloads. For the flare to AN junction, I think I did a double flare shown in the video.
I got like 5 B&D drills…lol. All cause the battery was cheaper with drill than alone. I also have Craftsman 20V and Ryobi 18V brushless drills, huge difference in performance. Haven’t seen any deals on Dewalt drills but I got their impact wrench, blower, and job fan. Spend too much time on Slickdeals so my collection is random on best deals.
hmmm, so the flaring tool you used creates 45 degree flares, and the 8an fittings are a 37 degree interface.....how did you address this? Did you replace the 37 with 45?
no... the AN to flare junction is good enough for this setup. The is the charging circuit so it is only pressurized as compressed air is created and passes thru the check valve to the tank. Once the tank is charged this circuit depressurizes so its doesn't need to hold charge.
You can add cooler in any but for a 30 gallon probably not worth it cause the oil less compressor. No room to route the air cause it’s has a small threaded pipe into the tank.
All the parts ended up being about $285 (with after tank, trap air dryer) a year ago. I have most of the tools but did pickup the flare kit for like $25 since I needed the double flare (already had single flare kit). Most of the stuff is linked in the video description to Amazon. Everything is still about the same price this year. I also spend another $125 in aftermarket maint. parts to refurb the compressor after I rescued it, all valves, air filter, capacitors, drain/leader hoses.
great video, where I live its very humid, did you see a big difference in the moisture when you ran your tools? Reason I ask is I'm sand blasting a car frame and the blast gun gets jammed up with moisture. This looks like a good solution?
I've been using it to sand blast in my HF cabinet and its worked well. Dry air and no clogs. My only issue now is keeping my media high enough for the siphon tube to suck.
It worked 🤷🏻♂️. I saw others doing the same with flare to 8AN, so I tried. No major leak. Remember the charge circuit doesn’t need to hold air more than the time it’s charging. Once the tank fills, the check valve and pressure switch unloads the line.
My 5 HP 80 gallon compressor is connected to a 3/4 copper pipe air line with a hydraulic hose. The hose is rated for several times the maximum pressure my compressor can produce, and it isolates the pipe which is fastened to the wall from compressor vibration. I've purchased, but haven't yet installed, an aftercooler coil. My plan is to fasten it to the wall on long standoffs so the blades on the flywheel can blow air through it. The lines from my pump to the cooler, from the cooler to the water separator, and from the water separator to the tank will all be high-pressure hydraulic hoses. The cooler will be isolated from vibration and I won't be faced with any issues of fittings turned in the wrong direction as I'll just buy hoses that are long enough to form a loop. Anybody see any flaws in my plan?
Oh where did you get that spring tube bender ?? I have many benders for EMT and copper lines but that thing looks to be a good tool for those free hand jobs.
why doesn't anyone braze these fittings? a/c fittings are brazed at the compressor due to vibrations...the movement of the compressor sure seems like a good source of vibration.
I’m using 45 flare on 8AN. It works fine for this application. This is a charging circuit so it doesn’t have to be 100% air tight. It’s moving air so fast that any leaks are negligible. Once the circuit fills the tank, it actually unloads any pressure in the line prior to the tank check valve.
@@TunerwithKids thanks, I was wondering the same and deciding if I needed to buy a 37 degree flare tool as well as a 45 degree flare tool. I like tools so I might anyway 🙂
This cooler idea seems neat! Is there any water that gets trapped in the cooler coils? I would imagine it does. How do you go about purging any water in cooler coils?
Any idea what the maximum cfm these transmission coolers is? I'm thinking on putting one on my compressor, but worry that it may restrict cfm levels. Currently without one, I can run 20 cfm at 90psi, but have the capability of increasing this to 30 cfm in the future with a motor upgrade. Any idea if this would handle that?
No idea on CFM, this is a charging circuit, so if your tank is full and the compressor kicks in to fill from 120psi back to 150PSI, not sure if that affects the tank output CFM.
Hi. Excellent project - just 1 question which isnt shown clearly in the video - when you mounted the oil cooler onto the shroud /grille, does the compressor fan blow into it or sucks air through it? From the video, it looks like the fan is sucking air through it ... But I might be wrong. I always thought a fan blowing into the cooler will cool it faster but not sure if it makes that big a difference.
@@4314832 it’s under whatever pressure the pump pushes while loading. Probably no where near the tank presssure. Once it fills, this circuit discharges at the pressure switch.
AC air dryer is usually an output dryer. It drys air coming out of the tank. On large industrial systems, an AC dryer is used as an after cooler before distribution line or storage tanks.
Yea, any coil that can be somewhat tightly sealed and pass the air can work. Only thing I’d be weary of is the tube size and SCFM that you can push thru that. Even my setup with 5/8 down to 1/2 has some people questioning it. But I figured the small decrease in ID of pipe will be made up by the extra length of the passes and charging circuit.
@Binh Nguyen-Tuner with Kids before embarked of this setup I'm aware of the cfm drop. my coil is not round but what i can say it's larger than 5/8. only the input and output using 5/8 tube. i think your 1/2 tube should be able to handle at least 40 cfm at 120 psi. whats more important here is using high flow water separator so you don't choke the air
@@TunerwithKids THAT is one huge cooler, I put one of those on a big 4WD Hydrostatic Drive HYDRO-MAX trencher that had heated the hydraulic oil hot enough to melt the nylon filled pump pistons in the Hydro pumps and the melted droplets plugged the original cooler enough to create to much case pressure in the pumps which caused the crankcase gaskets to blow out. After pulling the 4 pumps off 3-4 times to replace gaskets, finally checked pump crankcase pressure and discovered cooler plugged off from all the melted plastic droplets. That was one of those "Fun" jobs you don't forget about.
It doesn’t really hold pressure. It allows pressure to pass through on its way to the tank. Once the compressor is done, it depresses the charging circuit.
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This is a great video but when you speed it up I cannot tell what you are doing and I really do not understand the purpose of it on a 18 minute video, I say just put it on here at regular speed so we can see what you are doing, Thanks
Thanks but if I kept these videos at real speed, it would be 3 hrs long. Most of the FF footage is mundane stuff I explain or for those tackling this, would already know what to do.
. The air goes Through The Narrow Tube In Your Cooler Too Fast To Cool Enough to Dry Your Compressed Air. If You Used a 2" Pipe You'd Do a Lot Better. .
Nice video. But I think you're going to have problems. The cooler should be put on the output of the tank, not the pump. That's going to get water in it and it'll sit there and rust.
This is how optional OEM coolers and every other aftercooler works. The theory is to cool the air as it leaves the pump BEFORE the tank which prevents condensation in the tank. The gravity will bring moisture out of the radiator and in to the trap. A cooler after the tank won’t prevent moisture IN the tank. After the tank you use line filters and desiccant media to dry output air which I also installed.
Please note that the 5/8 pipe from the pump to tank is sized to ensure that the pump(comptessor) can provide the designed CFM to the tank. If you now connect a smaller diameter pipe (the cooler) in between the pump (compressor) and tank.....you nowdecrease the CFM going into the tank.....which can increase the recovery time to the max air cutoff. Maximum CFM is critical to the operation of certain tools....like a DA sander....sandblaster....if you don't want the compessor running on and off constantly....or always running. However if MAXIMUM Cfm is not a requirement then ALL IS WELL.
Very useful video, thanks! Recommending to tighten NPT threaded connectors as hard as you can into cast filter bodies is not the best idea though...they will snap or burst along the casting lines if you go too far. That is why teflon tape is a better idea, the thickness of the tape gives you more ability to clock an elbow to where you need it. Been using 5 to 7 wraps on 1/2" NPT on any kind of air service for 30 years....Loctite 575 is kind of overkill on not the best choice. It is also not recommended to use any kind of sealant on the threads between the nut and body on a compression fitting, the ferrule is holding the tube and it would take unbelievable pressures to loosen that nut. Not being critical, just offering the advice as I am an instrument fitter by trade.
Thanks. Good to know. I was using Teflon early on this compressor to do the other maintenance parts and they leaked since I didn’t tighten enough on clocking the fittings. That’s why I switched to the 545 since I had that laying around for some hydraulic fittings I’m doing.
@@veecan8341 pipe thread sealant. Since it's not boiling hot air true blue pipe thread sealant. Or blue monster with Teflon 3-4 wraps.
@T0tenkampf No, do NOT use teflon or sealant with AN, flare, or compression. The threading is designed to form metal on metal. NPT is the opposite and always requires a teflon or sealantant. Don't respond with a contrary comment. I'm just relaying the engineer rules.
@@T0tenkampf It's not recommended to
Finally, a guy who cools the air BEFORE it goes into the main tank...good job. Now add an auto spitter and that water in the first separator will be maintenance free.
Oh? What is that? May you elaborate?
@@yanndebonne7541 Cooling the air before it goes into the tank keeps the water condensed in the cooler tubing. An auto spitter is just a valve set at the lowest point in the cooler that opens at a set PSI and automatically lets out a quick burst of air and lets the water out with it. You don't have to manually drain the system.
friend used a couple Muffin fans from a computer server as they are 110 volt. they got a cooking pan the size of the cooler and installed the fans in it and over the cooler. powered off the pressure switch, Used rubber hose to absorb any vibration the compressor induced. they put amsoil compressor oil in the compressor as well, on the bottom of the tank they added a couple foot drain line so water collects in that not the tank.
Great video. After having done this as described in the video, I recommend buying the aluminum tubing in straight lengths. I spent a great deal of time trying to straighten the tubing to push the brass fittings on without pushing the tubes out of round. In addition, it is much more difficult to set the curved tubing into the flaring tool and have it perpendicular to the tool. I'd also recommend spending just a bit more and getting a proper tubing bender rather than the spring bender set.
link for suggested aluminum tubing
thank you much for this video, me and my son did all this today in our shop, used your material list. I went well and its AMAZING how much cooler the air is and a LOT less water, thanks again
After watching several vids on this I followed your instructions. The double flares were a challenge, went through 3 different flare tools before finding a good one. 95 degrees i Florida. 280 degree air going into the cooler and 90 degree coming out.
Excellent, the cooler is great addition some people don't pay attention to the moisture in the system it attacks the air tools gums up the system.
Trouble free is something to strive for .
This is the BEST video out there that shows you how to install a air dryer on a compressor in my opinion. Because of your video buddy I have gained confidence to do this job. Thank you so much buddy. I gave your video a gigantic thumbs up, take care buddy. 👍👍👍👍
I've watched a lot of these videos, yours explains the process really well. One thing - I don't understand why everyone goes through all the trouble of mounting these on their compressors, between the motor and the tank? Why not put the aftercooler AFTER the tank instead of putting it between the motor and the tank? Pop an auto drain on the bottom of the tank, let the tank and auto drain do the job they're designed to do, collecting most of the moisture at the tank .... then have the aftercooler inline right after the tank, cooling the air before it hits the filter.
It’s due to the temperature coming out of the compressor, 250F. Dropping it before it hits the tank minimizes moisture in tank and in airstream. You rather catch before the tank. A cooler after the tank to the filter won’t do anything. The point of the cooler is to get a high Delta T. In industrial applications, they use refrigerated dryers to do same before the air hits the 1,000+ gallon tanks.
Extracting the heat before the tank give the air one more place to drop moisture, making the air that much drier.
A cooler after the tank will work but only on extended run times when the tank gets warm/hot. I used to run 50' of air hose looped to condense the water after the tank and before the dryer, it works but again only if the air leaving the tank is warmer than ambient.
I’m not concerned about moisture. I’m concerned about burning up my pressure regulator from heat! I might put it after the tank and not install a water separator. I use my compressor to bubble up water in my water well. I produce about 15 gallons a minute with all mechanical components above ground.
@@TunerwithKids That kinda direct pressure into a transmission radiator not made for those high pressures.
The air movement thru the cooler isn’t under high pressure that long like in the tank, but the Derale is rated for 250psi. Once the tank is full and motor shuts down, the circuit releases pressure and tank has a check valve to hold the tank pressure.
Thx, I learned alot! Was gonna make a copper pipe manifold after the compressor but that won''t prevent water from entering the tank first. I do run an auto drain on my tank but if I can limit the water going in, it will give the tank increased longevity as well as less water in the final filter/s.
I had to subscribe. You were so thorough and kind to provide links to the items. First class buddy! Appreciated
Hope it helped your upgrades.
It is about the best modification you can do to any air compressor, this conceal the water condensation at the firat trap and not in the lines.
On any compressor, if you want to have water exempt air circuit, your tank must be kept cool so it traps the remaining water.
On my compressor, I done things a bit differently, I used a big regrigeration flat evaporator as heat exchanger and I used an automatic pressure activated tank drain to flush that portion of the circuit every time the compressor stops operating and it is surprizing to see the quantity of water that is collected at each compression cycle.
Very good job
Yea I manually open the drain weekly and even when I don't use compressor often, it expunges water from sitting.
Its best to cut any tubing that you want to flare with a hack saw as tubing cutters can work harden the metal and many times cause your flare to split. Sometimes it splits after its connected. Brake lines are the worst about this when double flaring. Most double flare kits in years past would tell you this in the instructions now that info got lost somewhere. Thanks for posting, Great idea. DS
Amazing how things get lost with time. Thats something we all knew 50 years ago.
I must have missed this video the first time I looked for it.
I too have been wanting an aftercooler on my compressor. I also found the barstock 90 on the pump head to be impossible to turn. Lately, I've seen videos showing chemicals to soften the superglue holding that fitting in place. They recommend acetone and chlorinated brake/carburator cleaner to soften it. I'm still trying to find out how long it takes to dissolve. I'm pretty sure the paint over the joint needs to be removed before starting.
My almost 30 year old 60 gallon 120 psi 240VAC air compressor has had zero maintenance and out of concern 10 years ago I added an air filter/dryer and I have never seen water or garbage collect in either component. This is an interesting upgrade and I am sure it's mandatory for Florida but not in dry cold climates.
I feel bad about abusing it but damn for seeing use every weekend that is pretty decent return on investment. I used to want a better one for air tools but I am almost all electric tools now. It may last my lifetime or explode and end my life not certain.
I needed dry reliable air for media blasting and painting. But in FL they tank condensates from just holding air and pressure. I manually hit the ball valve drain every few days for good measure. I hydro tested this to 270 psi for 6 hrs to make sure it won’t explode on me.
@@douganderson7002 honest, I've painted enamel with it also and not had issues or moisture in trap. Periodically my tank drains a little water, nothing like what other's get elsewhere across the country.
@@thereplacementfordisplacement we have very dry winters but humid summers here, so I have a dehumidifier running 24/7 keeping my shop usually around 30-35%. I build very little water in my air compressors. When possible, I think dehumidifiers are a good addition to keep surface rust from developing on equipment in humid environment, and it feeds dryer air into air compressors.
Keep a bag of silica sand around. Or salt. Fill tubing. Tape ends then bend. Keeps tubing from collapsing
Or use tubing benders
I fill the tubes with water, cap the ends, and put it in my freezer, when its frozen I take the pipe out and bend it to shape and it wont kink. Remove the caps and the ice melts.
Good idea on the ice, never thought of that.
Just don't breathe the silica sand dust. It can cause cancer.
Man this is the setup I need as my same style model is still portable to the areas I need. Thanks!!!
Great project and very well explained.it's been 2 years now, how's it holding up? Any problems? Air remaining dry?
Yea works great. No issues, I check the trap after a few fills and usually empty.
I was about to buy one of these, the 15800 with pre-mounted fan but saw a few reviews where guys have already gone through a few of these and had blown some seals, meaning it lasted for awhile then didn’t. I don’t know if corrosion from the hot water vapor may have anything to do with it but can assume so. That said, I’ve decided to build one of these on a 2ft x 4ft vertical grid using 1” copper pipe spaced 3” apart and zig-zag back and forth moving from top left (inlet side) down to bottom right (outlet side) . So there will be 16-18 sections of 24” long pipe.
The bottom right will have a T with a drain at bottom, then a 48” vertical pipe where the top will mount to a second hydraulic hose that goes to an auto-drain, and then from there it will go to another flexible hose into the tank. If needed, I can mount a standard 24” house box fan on the upper hot portion as well one lower down too if ever needed. Overall I also think this will cost about $50 less than a Derale with fan unit. Best of all, if anything goes wrong, I can hopefully resolder a joint rather than having to buy a condenser unit again.
I looked into doing the rows of pipe and it added up in costs for fittings. I thing the cooler is best benefit for costs. If you slope it properly, all the moisture will naturally drain to the trap.
That seems like a lot of copper pipe, about 35' by my calculations. 1" copper, even M pipe, is about $60 for a 10' length. Then there are all the elbows and other fittings. What did all that cost?
@@joer9719 I spend around $400, but also bought some pipe and fittings from local people off Craigslist.
Orient the compressor to allow better airflow through the cooler. With the cooler facing, and up close to the wall, air has to flow around it rather than through it. I like the install.
I up vote this advice. I have the larger 80gal model and the installation instructions call for a minimum of 12" between the fan to the wall. It would be interesting to see if doing so would cool the air a little more. Good video!
Tip put a T and a drop with a ball valve as a trap after the condesor a lot of you water will fall here being emptied with a quick ball vavle turn. This will make you water trap not have to work as hard. If your useing a desicent dryer will keep you from having to back it dry as often.
dude you are the best.... i was looking for oil coolers to do this but this is way to go.
Great video, but I wished you would have slowed down on the cooler install and flaring process.
Did you use a 37 degree or 45 degree flaring tool ? Thanks
The flare is 45 which is pretty standard. AN is 37 I think but for this connection it is fine. The circuit only holds pressure during charging so air moves fast enough that my minor leaks don’t matter. Once the tank is full the charging circuit releases all pressure.
@@TunerwithKids thanks for the reply
Great job. Not easy to do. But you made it look easy! Thank you for sharing
When hand bending lines, you can fill them with sand and cap off the ends to keep the line from crushing.
Well done Binh, well done & well explained to Jason.
Hey man, thanks for the tips air compressor works great with the modifications from your tips. Thank you.
I install this exact samee model and it just leaking from the one of the pipes welding, now im looking for a better one, and i see amazon customes having the same problem, now lookin for a better built one.
I wouldn't use red loctite as a thread sealant on soft metals like brass or aluminum. In future, I recommend TFE paste on any threaded connections. Its gas and oil resistant and only dries to the touch- but will allow you to unscrew it later. I use it instead of teflon tape on all of my air tool fittings at work, as well as multiple automotive applications. Its gas and oil resistant as well.
I would have put the springs on the other side. Or maybe half on each side. Also burn the ends to make them hold tighter on the stopper so you call pull them tight. Great video though. Thanks
My question is why not install the radiator and dryer inline with the intake of the compressor head not the output?
Cause you are trying to cool the compressed air, not intake air. Reducing air temp before the tank also condenses moisture which is trapped by the water trap we install before tank. For additional drying on tank output, I added the desiccant inline dryer.
It's actually better that you didn't turn the elbow fitting coming out of the pump head, you want it facing down like you have it so that the water in the cooler and tubing doesn't flow back into the head when it's off.
Nice compressor score. Ingersoll is great. Nice build
Great video! What size is the whip you are using from the compressor out to your secondary set of air/water separation?
Don’t remember but links to all the products is in description of video
Absolutely 💯 awesome video 👏. This definitely saves me time and money. Thanks 🙏
Any chance you have an update on if your secondary water collector was still getting any moisture or was the first one able to take care of it all?
The after cooler does a good job. The output filter driers are for any residual moisture inside tank. I also do a quick open close of the drain ball valve at the bottom once a week, it spits a quick burst of moisture everytime.
great job, bro! I am in the middle of doing something similar. Slightly different approach, but your video is keeping my motivation high!
Very clean install and well done video. Thanks :)
AN 37° flare and industrial 37° flare fittings function identically. In many cases, they appear to be functionally interchangeable, but they are not. What this means is that while the products may look similar, you must not use an industrial 37° flare fitting design as a direct substitution.
Yea I think it's 45 degrees vs 37. For this project they work because it doesn't have to be 100% air tight. The charge circuit is only pressurized during fill. Once the fill is complete, the circuit releases all pressure.
Hi there. Im putting a cooler on my air compressor as well.
Im also using a water and oil trap on mine. I was thinking it would be good to stop any oil before it gets into the tank.
The oil trap has a regulator but i was just going to turn that up so the full amount of air gets past it so the tank will be filled up as quick as possible.
Do you reckon that is ok to do ?
Cheers for the great video
Hey man just watched the whole video and I’m wondering if this set up would work for my puma 60 gal 5hp air compressor it looks a lil different setup but let me know if you think it’s will work for my compressor
Just a thought here; the placement of the cooling coil causes the cooling fan to blow very hot air across the cylinders thereby greatly reducing cylinder cooling. I realize you now have cooler air coming out but still may be causing overheating of the cylinders and possibly premature damage. ?
Negligible affects on the cylinders or the second stage coolers on the tubes. This is actually how OEM optional after coolers are also mounted. With the short duration of air movement during charging, it shouldn’t really affect anything especially with the wide range of ambient temps the compressor is already exposed to during normal ops. Main goal of the cooler is to let air make multiple passes thru and get a delta T to let moisture condensate and drip into the trap.
Switch cap going to fit? e
Enstien
Try moving the vacuum to the rear port. That left side port is the inlet. HF and others have it wrong in the manual ON PURPOSE. It’s a patent/trademark issue.
Great job. But why cut the original pipe just to connect to new pipes? Why not just make the pipes one piece? Less connectors means less places to leak.
I think it was making the turns and connectors. The factory tubes were already terminated to tank and motor so it was easier to join them.
Any air leaks because of the flare fittings vs AN? On the AN flare did you use a single or double flare?
No telling of air leaks since it’s a charge circuit that is moving high velocity during tank charge. Once compressor stops the circuit unloads. For the flare to AN junction, I think I did a double flare shown in the video.
For bone dry air you need to A/C refrigerate you air
Nice work, man. Looks great… i’m trying to figure out how you got that big bad ir and black and decker drill lol
I got like 5 B&D drills…lol. All cause the battery was cheaper with drill than alone. I also have Craftsman 20V and Ryobi 18V brushless drills, huge difference in performance. Haven’t seen any deals on Dewalt drills but I got their impact wrench, blower, and job fan. Spend too much time on Slickdeals so my collection is random on best deals.
@@TunerwithKids just giving you a hard time. I just sold my dewalt drill and impact to buy a bauer one for the battery price alone lol
With the water drain at the top of the tank do you ever use the one at the bottom of the tank ?
Yea I open the bottom once a week just to purge any moisture.
hmmm, so the flaring tool you used creates 45 degree flares, and the 8an fittings are a 37 degree interface.....how did you address this? Did you replace the 37 with 45?
no... the AN to flare junction is good enough for this setup. The is the charging circuit so it is only pressurized as compressed air is created and passes thru the check valve to the tank. Once the tank is charged this circuit depressurizes so its doesn't need to hold charge.
Can you do the same set up on a 30 gallon air compressor
You can add cooler in any but for a 30 gallon probably not worth it cause the oil less compressor. No room to route the air cause it’s has a small threaded pipe into the tank.
How much did this end up costing? and did you have the tools already or did you have to buy that as well?
All the parts ended up being about $285 (with after tank, trap air dryer) a year ago. I have most of the tools but did pickup the flare kit for like $25 since I needed the double flare (already had single flare kit). Most of the stuff is linked in the video description to Amazon. Everything is still about the same price this year. I also spend another $125 in aftermarket maint. parts to refurb the compressor after I rescued it, all valves, air filter, capacitors, drain/leader hoses.
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Add a Normally Open
Solenoid Valve to the
Catch-pot to Dump the
Water When You Switch
the Compressor Off.
.
Great video! More about you sandblaster too
I have some older 2020/2021 videos on sand blaster.
After 1 yr ..
How is it working ..??
😎👍😎
Great. No leaks or issues. Keeps air dry, I still open the drain ball valve once a week to drain any condensation from sitting.
Man I really miss fresh content from you. Hope you’re doing well.
great video, where I live its very humid, did you see a big difference in the moisture when you ran your tools?
Reason I ask is I'm sand blasting a car frame and the blast gun gets jammed up with moisture. This looks like a good solution?
I've been using it to sand blast in my HF cabinet and its worked well. Dry air and no clogs. My only issue now is keeping my media high enough for the siphon tube to suck.
I have a 06 gs300 can I put the is350 brake calipers on my 06 gs300
Yes. Bolt on. Rear is already bigger and vented so it’s same as IS350 except caliper is slightly design.
Why not tuck the lines underneath by the compressor head base to avoid that top loop? Would've made it look alot cleaner.
Was trying to work with the existing path and keep bends minimum due to kinking.
What's your plan for getting standard 45º flare fittings to seal on the (37º) 8AN fittings on the cooler? Oooops! Does not work reliably!
It worked 🤷🏻♂️. I saw others doing the same with flare to 8AN, so I tried. No major leak. Remember the charge circuit doesn’t need to hold air more than the time it’s charging. Once the tank fills, the check valve and pressure switch unloads the line.
My 5 HP 80 gallon compressor is connected to a 3/4 copper pipe air line with a hydraulic hose. The hose is rated for several times the maximum pressure my compressor can produce, and it isolates the pipe which is fastened to the wall from compressor vibration. I've purchased, but haven't yet installed, an aftercooler coil. My plan is to fasten it to the wall on long standoffs so the blades on the flywheel can blow air through it. The lines from my pump to the cooler, from the cooler to the water separator, and from the water separator to the tank will all be high-pressure hydraulic hoses. The cooler will be isolated from vibration and I won't be faced with any issues of fittings turned in the wrong direction as I'll just buy hoses that are long enough to form a loop. Anybody see any flaws in my plan?
Great video, thanks for taking the time to show us
Oh where did you get that spring tube bender ?? I have many benders for EMT and copper lines but that thing looks to be a good tool for those free hand jobs.
Came with one of my flare kits n
Because you went from a bigger diameter pipe to a small diameter pipe exiting the compressor that line is going to get super hot
why doesn't anyone braze these fittings? a/c fittings are brazed at the compressor due to vibrations...the movement of the compressor sure seems like a good source of vibration.
brazing would be overkill for air compressor. Having removable connections makes future service easier.
Where to get those springs and what they called?
The pipe benders? They come with some flare kits. But for easy bending, I recommend a real bender. Something like this. amzn.to/3AnVcQ9
No, the cone shaped springs for mounting, I mean
Those come with the zip tie mounting kit. Links in description of video.
Did you use a 45 degree flare and nut to connect to the 8AN male on the 15300 cooler? The 8AN is 37 degree. If so how has it held up?
I’m using 45 flare on 8AN. It works fine for this application. This is a charging circuit so it doesn’t have to be 100% air tight. It’s moving air so fast that any leaks are negligible. Once the circuit fills the tank, it actually unloads any pressure in the line prior to the tank check valve.
@@TunerwithKids thanks, I was wondering the same and deciding if I needed to buy a 37 degree flare tool as well as a 45 degree flare tool. I like tools so I might anyway 🙂
Me regalas el nombre del enfriador de aceite que usaste y donde lo compraste . Gracias
Es el primier link que el puso arriba
Derale 15300 Tube and Fin Cooler
Loved this video, very helpful thank you.
This cooler idea seems neat! Is there any water that gets trapped in the cooler coils? I would imagine it does. How do you go about purging any water in cooler coils?
There’s the drain canister at the end before the tank.
Any idea what the maximum cfm these transmission coolers is? I'm thinking on putting one on my compressor, but worry that it may restrict cfm levels. Currently without one, I can run 20 cfm at 90psi, but have the capability of increasing this to 30 cfm in the future with a motor upgrade. Any idea if this would handle that?
No idea on CFM, this is a charging circuit, so if your tank is full and the compressor kicks in to fill from 120psi back to 150PSI, not sure if that affects the tank output CFM.
Hi do you still have the conversation bumper for is 250 for sale
I have it but not ready to sell yet. Still gotta wait for new bumper paint and clean up old one for sell. Local Orlando pickup only.
Hi. Excellent project - just 1 question which isnt shown clearly in the video - when you mounted the oil cooler onto the shroud /grille, does the compressor fan blow into it or sucks air through it? From the video, it looks like the fan is sucking air through it ... But I might be wrong. I always thought a fan blowing into the cooler will cool it faster but not sure if it makes that big a difference.
The pulley is sucking air thru because the OEM setup sends air to the after cooler pipes of the compressor and to cool the piston housings.
So is the after cooler dryer running at same pressure as the compressor?
It’s the charge pressure before it hits the check valve and tank.
@@TunerwithKids So it is under pressure? the same pressure that the tank would be under while the motor is on?
@@4314832 it’s under whatever pressure the pump pushes while loading. Probably no where near the tank presssure. Once it fills, this circuit discharges at the pressure switch.
Use blue loctite. Reds too aggressive if you need to remove them later
It’s pneumatic/air loctite to seal, it’s not your typical locking type.
All model T-30 234,2340,242,2475,253,2545,71T2, 7100,15T, 25T2, All 12.5Kg
so would a AC air dryer reciver work as well?
AC air dryer is usually an output dryer. It drys air coming out of the tank. On large industrial systems, an AC dryer is used as an after cooler before distribution line or storage tanks.
Ingersoll Rand we go way back
I'm using scrap car air conditioner cooling coil, yeah it's free and it does the job well. anyway it was fun project
Yea, any coil that can be somewhat tightly sealed and pass the air can work. Only thing I’d be weary of is the tube size and SCFM that you can push thru that. Even my setup with 5/8 down to 1/2 has some people questioning it. But I figured the small decrease in ID of pipe will be made up by the extra length of the passes and charging circuit.
@Binh Nguyen-Tuner with Kids before embarked of this setup I'm aware of the cfm drop. my coil is not round but what i can say it's larger than 5/8. only the input and output using 5/8 tube. i think your 1/2 tube should be able to handle at least 40 cfm at 120 psi. whats more important here is using high flow water separator so you don't choke the air
Compression fittings you go finger tight plus one and a half turns
Thanks for the video. Good job..
Is there a bigger cooler option?
Yea there are a few other more expensive options. Most people use this Hayden amzn.to/3E08Mc9
@@TunerwithKids THAT is one huge cooler, I put one of those on a big 4WD Hydrostatic Drive HYDRO-MAX trencher that had heated the hydraulic oil hot enough to melt the nylon filled pump pistons in the Hydro pumps and the melted droplets plugged the original cooler enough to create to much case pressure in the pumps which caused the crankcase gaskets to blow out. After pulling the 4 pumps off 3-4 times to replace gaskets, finally checked pump crankcase pressure and discovered cooler plugged off from all the melted plastic droplets. That was one of those "Fun" jobs you don't forget about.
How has this setup held up since making this video?
It’s good. I use it a few times a week. No issues.
@@TunerwithKids 👍
great job !
Are you deviating towards 🎉🎉 hyperlink
keep the knowledge coming sir
Sir for job
My experience in ir air comperssers sarvesing is 26Years All T-38Model
Never tighten ANYTHING as tight as you can get it. ESPECIALLY not a tapered thread NPT fitting that can split a casting.
thank you!
A+ video!
Aluminum is not compatible with brass or copper it will corrode fairly quickly and weaken the material
Damn forgot about galvanic effects of dissimilar metals...doppppeee! Oh well I'll keep an eye on it to make sure AL tube doesn't oxidize too much.
The intercooler is supposed to go between the two pistons, i.e. after the first piston. Should work great anyway, I bet you get no water in that tank!
The motor already has an intercooler built in via the finned tube. This is an after cooler.
@@TunerwithKids I see, I neglected to read it carefully! Thanks.
Nice video.
I wouldn't think that an oil cooler would hold the pressure
It doesn’t really hold pressure. It allows pressure to pass through on its way to the tank. Once the compressor is done, it depresses the charging circuit.
@@TunerwithKidsit has to be at the pressure of the tank at least while it's pumping
Just two short years and this build is now close to $235.00. The cooler has gone up by 50%
I think the Derale has been hovering around $75 to $80 since I bought it. My total parts cost was $210 at the time.
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Model 2475c5
This is a great video but when you speed it up I cannot tell what you are doing and I really do not understand the purpose of it on a 18 minute video, I say just put it on here at regular speed so we can see what you are doing, Thanks
Thanks but if I kept these videos at real speed, it would be 3 hrs long. Most of the FF footage is mundane stuff I explain or for those tackling this, would already know what to do.
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The air goes Through
The Narrow Tube
In Your Cooler Too Fast
To Cool Enough to Dry
Your Compressed Air.
If You Used a 2" Pipe
You'd Do a Lot Better.
.
Nice video. But I think you're going to have problems. The cooler should be put on the output of the tank, not the pump. That's going to get water in it and it'll sit there and rust.
This is how optional OEM coolers and every other aftercooler works. The theory is to cool the air as it leaves the pump BEFORE the tank which prevents condensation in the tank. The gravity will bring moisture out of the radiator and in to the trap. A cooler after the tank won’t prevent moisture IN the tank. After the tank you use line filters and desiccant media to dry output air which I also installed.
@@TunerwithKids OK. That makes a lot of sense. Thanks for the detail.