Cheap Upgrades for Cheap Air Compressors!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ก.ย. 2020
- In this video I go over a few upgrades I've made my cheap Harbor Freight air compressor. These upgrades would work fine on any compressor, but are particularly recommended for the cheaper air compressor brands (like Campbell Hausfeld, Coleman, Porter Cable, Kobalt, etc).
The upgrades are basically: better air fittings, a better air regulator (or regulator delete), install a remote tank drain, and install a higher capacity air filter.
Video Links:
Air Compressors & Air Tools Playlist ► • Air Compressors & Air ...
21 Gallon Harbor Freight Air Compressor Review: Max's Tool Reviews! ► • 21 Gallon Harbor Freig...
How to Seal Air Tool Fittings! Max's Tech Tips! ► • How to Seal Air Tool F...
NO MESS Air Compressor Draining! Max's Tech Tips! ► • NO MESS Air Compressor...
Max's Tool Review Playlist ► • Max's Tool Reviews Pla...
Stuff Links (Affiliated):
Air filter ► amzn.to/3cyz7A5
JB Weld, 2 oz ► amzn.to/3rfdU2q
Quick Connects:
Barstock Tee ► amzn.to/36yJ6Sa
Milton Male NPT M Style Air fitting ► amzn.to/3jmioBH
Remote Drain:
90 Degree Barstock Street Elbow ► amzn.to/3arAq19
MBVM Series Brass Mini Ball Valve ► amzn.to/3tl2gVC
Anderson Metals Brass Pipe Fitting, Coupling, 1/4" x 1/4" Female Pipe ► amzn.to/3aq5O06
3/8-Inch I.D. by 3-Foot 250 PSI Rubber Air Hose with 1/4-Inch MPT Ends ► amzn.to/2YCNbQV
Want to contact me? info@TheBrokenLife.net - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
I'm aware that I was using the various pliars "backward". I have made a video on the topic...
th-cam.com/video/jsw9seQxq3Y/w-d-xo.html
Why not use a correct tool
@@randyheinbaugh8238 Did you watch the linked video?
As long as you know. It’s a good way to bust a knuckle. And strip the flats off a fitting. I’m an old retired Stationary Engr. Boilers and HVAC and every other system in a Hospital, hi-rise, or ship.
@@gravitystorm61158 The message was clearly and loudly received. 😆
@@TheBrokenLife 👍👏
Yeah, I can be a pain in the a…ss. Retirement does that to you….
The trick with JB weld and similar epoxies doing that kind of thing is to heat them up- heat thins it out and makes it runnier and also causes it to set faster. I actually keep a few regular old school light bulbs and even a halogen one and a normal light socket in the shop for this, I set the hood of the light fixture over whatever it is like a dome over the part, it warms up and the JB weld spreads out and self-levels.
I'll have to keep that in mind for the future. Thanks!
Brilliant
Heat guns are dirt cheap and the blower makes them much more useful than a mere radiant heater.
@@Comm0ut Yea, but you'll go crazy holding it trying to get the epoxy to flow out completely, it takes a while
One thing I did with my compressor drain is a street elbow to an 8" (maybe 6"? I forget) copper pipe nipple, then the ball valve. It's at floor level, but it's out from under the tank, so it's easy to get to, and no length of hose to pinch or whatever. From there you can run a hose or whatever. Nice and clean!
Whatever works! 👍
..
Make sense
Essentially not needing
to turn the compressor on it's side
...
My tips in priority order:
1. Lose the stock regulator as in video.
2. Replace couplers on compressor, main hoses, and air hog tools with Milton V series. They flow a lot more air and your regular fittings will work with them.
3. Use synthetic compressor oil. I got Husky from the homeless despot. My compressor used to struggle to start when it was 40F. I've run it at 20F with synthetic oil.
My drain is unfortunately not at the bottom of the tank like the video so I have to tilt the whole thing to get all the water out. I suppose they thought they were making it more accessible. I've got a nice automatic drain valve I could install but it wouldn't drain the tank.
A lot of people have commented about the Milton Vs. I fully intend to take a look at some. 👍
The synthetic oil is a good idea and something I never considered since my current shop rarely gets cold enough to give the compressor fits. My prior shop was an unconditioned detached building, which did upset the compressor, and I never even thought about changing oil types. I wish I had!
The only compressor I've ever seen with a drain not at the exact bottom is my little 18V Ryobi, and it makes up for it by being so small it really wouldn't have been practical to put it anywhere but where they did. In your case, I suggest taking the path I just did on my DeWalt (a video from 2 weeks ago) and install an aftercooling and water separation setup between the compressor and the tank. It's better to just never have water in it to begin with if you can. Mine has been remarkably effective.
A fellow AVE subscriber I see 😉
@@A6Legit This Old Tony these days, but, yes... 😁
There are other reasons for it though.
For the drain I use pull cord drain valves for semi trucks. Phillips 12 820 is the number. Any truck shop will have for like 10 bucks. They come with a 5 foot aluminum pull cord which can be routed easily. I drain my tank and never have to reach down as my pull cord is up top now. As for safety they are dot rated and trusted to hold air brake pressure on an 18 wheeler.
That sounds like a good approach to it. 👍
Great idea - would love to show that rig drain sits on your compressor. 👍
Just bought one off of the internet. Thanks for the great idea and for the part number.
You are right about the quality quick connects. I had a Harbor Freight one come apart under pressure and put a nice dent in my G37 fender. That cheap fitting cost me $700. I only use Milton fittings now.
Oof... I've never had that happen, but I'd be pretty upset if it did.
@@TheBrokenLife Yes, I was so pissed I just closed the garage door and didn't open it for a month (the car got parked in the Winter).
I bought one of these from Kragen (yes Kragen) when I was 16, I used it as my main compressor for somewhere around 17 years. I ran that thing through hell and back and more hot suppers than any tool should suffer. I finally upgraded to a new one after so so much abuse and THEN I broke it back out when I had to refinish my mom's house running an HVLP sprayer and I was not kind to it. I was able to boil water on the head. Once I was done the neighbor kid heard I was going to throw it out and asked for it. We tore open the compressor head, we found slightly warped valves and replaced them, made sure there wasn't any damage to it, buttoned it back up and I can hear it running on Saturday mornings from down the street doing the same thing I purchased it for all those years ago, working on a beater car. That is what you call a workhorse.
I have very nearly the same story with mine. It's always been too small for what I needed, but for the most part it always got it done. For what it cost, I couldn't have done better.
I got that harbor freight compressor did the same took off regulator . I put brass union into a filter/water separator then a good fitting. also made a air/dryer with fitting and good regulator with good gauge . great for HVLP painting. I run 3/4 impact on mine. just not long run time. works just fine for me. easy take off big tractor tier . Tractor supply has IR synthetic compressor oil. I get better starts in our cold winter . that air filter 1/2 in NPT Amazon has good filters. and the filter cartridge I replaced with lawnmower foam just cut it to fit. now washable ! this is my back up compressor. .
That's pretty much the exact same experience I've had with mine, except mine has metric threads for the filter body. Not long after this I changed out to a Solberg filter housing (more akin to a motorcycle filter) and then, like you, this also became my backup compressor. 😆
On my new compressor I did my water separation before the air ever hits the tank, so hopefully my tank and such will stay nice and rust-free for a good long time to come.
I have changed the regulator from a cheap compressor before and noticed a nice flow improvement. Along with some good quality high flow brass fittings it was a noticeable improvement.
Also doing an extended tank drain was a welcomed add on for me.
Indeed, sir. All are well worth the time and the extra couple bucks. 👍
Thanks for this vid. Many very useful tips and I liked your explanations of them.
Thumbs up for sure, I learned a few useful things here.
One thing I might have done a bit differently whilst you were dropping that JBW in with the popsicle stick would have been to slip a drinking straw (even if I had to make one to fit) over the threads of your centre post to avoid getting the JBW into the end of those threads.
Thanks again!
Thanks. I'm glad you liked it!
I don't think I even considered the threads while I was doing that. I might have probably just taped them off if I had even thought about it.
This video was amazing, definitely earned a subscription from me, can't wait to watch your other videos. Well done and thank you!
That's very kind of you to say. Thank you!
This was surprisingly entertaining! Looking forward to see more!
Thanks! I'm glad you enjoyed it!
Also most of the time the heads have bear casting holes for airflow passages. If you can get in there and taper them it'll increase efficiency a little. I've done this to every compressor I've owned. The most recent was a $60 harbor freight 12v compressor, brought it up 0.2-0.35 CFM over stock. Only took 20 minutes to do and another hour to test and retest a few times when hot and cold and graph out the results. Also modified a quick connect to be an always open and installed it so any normal air hose will work on it now.
I've had the head off of mine several times and, to my immense surprise, the casting is actually pretty nice. I don't think I could do much to clean it up that wouldn't be moving in the wrong direction.
I've heard of guys cleaning up massive amounts of casting flash out of theirs though. Seems like its the luck of the draw. 🤷♂️
lol, resting your bare arms across those motor capacitors scared me. You weren't all that far away from a Significant Emotional Event. Good video. Cheers!
I confess I didn't think a single thing about it at the time. A good safety PSA for sure. 😁👍
Thanks for watching!
Enjoyed this. Air fittings - glad you tore it down. For the work and time involved I will just buy a new fitting - but it was fun seeing it apart. I love the air filter upgrade. And I will look into the setting up a drain hose. Thank you for this video.
Thanks! I'm glad you found it helpful! 👍
Taking it apart showed what the problem was (collecting junk due to angle) and problem can be fixed permanently, not just a temp fix (new fitting only)
Great upgrades on your Air Compreasor!
Well done!
Thanks! 👍
It took me 6 years to figure out that the regulator was the problem on my HF 10 gallon. It ran everything perfectly, except for my impact wrench. One day, I had a hunch and took out the regulator. I tried to blow through it and there was a lot of restriction. I took it apart and found that none of the casting defects were ground out. I cleaned it out and got some improvement, but not enough for my impact. I had no clue which regulator to get and eventually forgot about it. The thought never occurred to me to just yank the thing out completely. I'm going to give it a shot. Thanks!
Removing it will almost certainly fix it. I've had to do it to every cheap China compressor I've been around.
As luck would have it, I just bought another compressor with another cheap regulator so I'll probably be able to illustrate the issue on camera soon.
If you want to run a regulator, I suggest something that is meant for professional use, most likely with something like 3/4 or 5/8 inlet/outlet. I've had a Parker on my shopping list for a long time now and am hoping to have a bit of compressed air re-fit in my little shop soon-ish.
@@sheepdog3828 No problem. Sometimes I have a hard time keeping up with all of the comments myself and it's my channel. 😆
Also... I did buy that Parker I was talking about and it will likely be on the channel "soon".
Question from an absolute beginner: why _would_ you want or need a regulator? Seems like most tools would benefit from all the air the thing can deliver them.
@@fallingwater Some tools have a maximum pressure rating. In fact, _most_ tools do and its usually 90psi. That said... I've run plenty of my tools far beyond that with no real problems.
For me, a regulator is mostly useful when doing something "delicate", like blowing dust off of something that may be sensitive or even inflating a small object. It would be very easy to explode something like a beach ball (maybe even a basketball) at 150psi, but not so easy at 10 or 20 psi.
If you install a moisture trap before the t-fitting it will help keep your Milton air fittings from getting so corroded. I always drain the water in the tank so that also helps a lot.
On the compressor that replaced this one I installed a separator before the tank which should help keep the entire system rust free.
I thought of a way to drain water from the tank automatically. It works well. I have it on my compressor. Get a solenoid valve that will handle compressors pressure. I used a larger valve because I couldn't find one the size of the drain pipe in the tank. I believe my valve is 1/2 or 3/4 inch. Get a solid state delay switch that you can set for a few seconds. Connect the timer to the pressure switch on the compressor. Then connect the solenoid valve to the timer so the valve opens as soon as the compressor starts. I believe I set the delay to turn off the valve after about 3 seconds. Every time the compressor starts it opens the valve about 3 seconds before closing the valve. A little noisy when it is open but works great.
I'm way ahead of you, but our control systems will be a little different. 😁
The problem with the nice brass connectors is that the small valve plug inside them all is cheap cadmium plated steel, they are all that way, and they quickly rust and don't seal . I made a bunch of stainless replacementa on my lathe from 3/8 round SS and just replace them. you only have to do it once, I will probably replace new ones as I install new air stations. The springs that close them when you disconnect are high quality stainless and will never have to be replaced, just reuse them.
Stainless inserts are exactly what I was hoping to find on the market to replace that plunger with. I never got a around to shopping for any. I was hoping maybe something for corrosive gas might be available commercially?
Sounds like a product that would sell!
Milton V High-Flow fittings i've found are by far the best ones out there. Way better performance out of die grinders, abrasive blasters, etc. I changed out the drain on mine with a 90' street elbow connected to a hose barb where i attached a length of old air hose which runs to a drain. gets rid of the water in the compressor fast. I also run a whip hose from my regulator, up the wall, then back down to a desiccant dryer/filter. for an air filter, i used a K&N Valve Cover Breather filter that attaches first to a lawnmower muffler which greatly reduces the noise.
Many folks have mentioned the milton V series and I do plan to take a look at them. 👍
I just got a pipe adapter and a washable pod filter for the air filter. I think a 1 1/4 to 3/4 threaded pvc adapter was what worked on mine. No messing with glued on stuff that can break due to vibrations.
Mine is all fancy with a real k&n filter due to me ordering the wrong size for something and didn't want to hassle returning it.
The threads on mine are M20, but that will vary by unit.
I have never had a JB weld failure. I became a convert after I glued a radiator back together with that stuff and it went on to serve for 100,000 miles (about 5 years) until the car was scrapped due to rust. It's the only glue I've ever used that actually works. I've even machined the stuff. The key is to not be shy with it. The more, the merrier. You would break the housing before you'd break the glue. I confess that it took messing around to get it done. 😆
I considered a PVC setup, but I didn't trust it with the heat of the head. Ultimately, I replaced the entire thing with a Solberg unit, which is made of steel, and is made for air compressors. It's a really nice setup.
I'm not usually a fan of K&N style filters. That said... I looked in the cylinder of my compressor after 16 years of running it with _no_ filter and its like new in there. I was absolutely shocked. I think pretty much anything you put on one is probably adequate. 👍
@@TheBrokenLife I'm lucky my old unit is NPT threaded. Mine has been this way for about 10 years in a mechanic shop and gets used weekly if not daily. The heat hasn't done anything I can tell. I meant to swap it out with metal. When I'm at the hardware store I just forget to grab the parts. Just happened to have that PVC part in the shop one day and looked at the compressor and the filter I ordered in the wrong size. Guess the planets were aligned and it happened to work.
I like K&N on street stuff but only with a prefilter. Off road or really dusty I don't think they filter well enough. The filter was supposed to go on a valve cover so it wasn't like it was doing anything really important anyways.
@@user-neo71665 Whatever works, works. In all things, it's always better to be lucky than good. 😁
Usually I get neither. 😞
@@TheBrokenLife It's rare but run with it when it happens.
Indeed!
Thanks for the video. I've got a Ingersoll-Rand air compressor from the mid 90s that needs some TLC and plan on doing a few upgrades to it as well. BTW, make a few videos of that Fox GT! My favorite mustangs of any year.
The 5.0 is on the list, but it's way down on the priorities, unfortunately. ;)
My compressor is a hand me down, the first thing I did with mine was replace the drain valve. I have access to stainless swagelock fittings and tubing at work so I grabbed a couple fittings and a 1/4 turn valve and brought the drain out just far enough that it wasn’t in the way.
An excellent upgrade!
Make sure use your pliers and vice grips in the correct direction!
:)
You smoking crack or what
noticed that too...
Just like a pipe wrench, they inly effectively grip in specific directions
This is why he was cleaning the brass. But what’s so bad about an adjustable wrench? Which also have to be used the right way around.
i like how nothing went according to plan man, just like watching myself in the shop... nice video
Indeed... I had a period of about 2 years where if the camera was on, it was not going to go well. 😂
Thanks in a million. Great content. Awesome imagination. Grade: A++💥
Thanks for watching! 🍻
I work on compressors for a fasteners company. Great idea on the mower air filter. Take a Dremel and port the thread end to allow it to breathe easier. Also port or drill the tube portion of the inside of the filter box or else it is only getting the air from around the crushed area of foam. That is restricting. Second, get a pipe to replace the regulator to get your connections to. This allows the air to straighten out and creates a tunnel ram effect like on a race car. Put a 3/8” connector, at least. 1/4” only have about an 1/8” valve. The pipes that you used to attach to your pressure switch can be used for the water drain on the tank also. Run it to a ball valve that you can reach easily with your foot. If you need to bend over, you are probably not going to drain it. Lastly, if you look at all of the fittings on the pressure switch, you can find a pressure switch that will run the same voltage and allow you to run more pressure. 412024-E compatible/replacement Air Compressor Pressure Switch 135 PSI MAC2400 MAC5200 AC700
Thanks!
In truth, I never liked that filter housing and traded it for a Solberg housing. It's a bit more like an automotive style filter. I noticed no change in performance, but it looks nicer and is almost certainly more durable.
Larger fittings are certainly a great upgrade, but 1/4" seems to be the industry standard for equipment of this size. If I want to be able to use my tools elsewhere, or elsewhere tools be used here, I kind of have to stick with 1/4". In the future I'll be exploring some other options, but not on this compressor and probably not for "normal" tools.
My drain hose comes out from the bottom and has a valve on a 3' whip, then another 3' whip attaches to the other side of the valve. I don't have to bend over to do it since it's on 6' of hose (and I do actually drain it). I must not have made this very clear, because a lot of people don't seem to understand it. I think the _extra_ valve on the bottom of the tank might be giving false impressions to some viewers.
There are some good thoughts in your comment for sure, but I would *_not recommend_* that anyone increase the tank pressure of their compressor beyond what the manufacturer intended... especially on one of these questionable quality Chinese units. In truth, the switch that is on it right now is adjustable and could be turned up... I was actually more tempted to turn it down given that my tank is 20 years old and has been abused. 😅
Neat video, the cover probably doesn't affect airflow to the filter too bad since the cover has a decent amount of holes in it.
That's my thought too, but the thing pumps up radically slower now than it did before with no filter. I think if I had to do it over again (which... I might), I'd probably try to adapt a motorcycle air filter or something. Ya know, something with giant skulls or flames or knives or something cool. ;)
This was helpful. Thanks.
I'm glad to hear it! 👍
I have the Harbor Freight compressor and I've had it for almost 10 years. I just wish it was bigger and quieter! It has ran great!!
Mine was in regular operation for nearly 20 years until I replaced it with something bigger and quieter! 😁
THANK YOU FOR SHARING THE VIDEO
FROM AUSTRALIA
Thanks for watching it! 👍
I see a foxbody in the background. Hell yeah!!
Indeed you do... ;) It will be on the channel in good time. Sadly it's a low priority at the moment, but it's a pretty nice car under all the dust.
Hey, I also have a foxbody gathering dust in my shop. :-) Great vid. Subscribed.
Mine is excellent at that! ;)
Thanks! Happy to have you!
Me too!
Picked one of these up for free compressor is bad your videos are wonderful especially since no one talks about older tools u earned a sub
Thanks! I appreciate it! Was just working on another old tool review today.
@@TheBrokenLife cool deal man eventually imma set up a TH-cam I do small engine repair tool repair anything and lots and lots of landscaping. Basically I’ll do anything to make money.
@@P3ndulumSw1ng Cool! Good luck with it!
great video !
Thanks!
Great video
Thanks!
That breether plug thing came with it ?, I got a pulsar 15gallon that has a plastic cover that keep flying out whenever the comp is on n the oil would them start flashing through the hole
Yep. Anything you see in the video that I didn't specifically comment on is just regular HFT stuff.
You sure your compressor isn't suffering from blow by and pressurizing the crank case and popping that plug out?
Hi, under what name I can find the 90 degree niple elbow? Just exactly the one you show at 8:27 min on video, and where (store) (e-store) to I can find it? Thanks!
All of the links are in the video description. 👍
Fill the comp with air it will come out LOL Thanks for the cool video You gave me some ideas
I'm glad you found it useful!
I think because of the Indiana humidity you should tilt the valve fitting downward slightly and then it will drain better. I have a small tank that I drain weekly and I leave it open during the winter and it does ok.
Since filming this video I have retired the compressor shown and taken water separation a lot more seriously on its replacement. I decided that the best way to keep water out of the fittings was to keep water out of the tank from the start.
Check out the Compressors / Air Tools playlist in the description if you want to see where that path has led me.
Wow, I have the same compressor in red, but I also have the same backpack sprayer. I've owned it for about twenty years! You can put down 5 gallons before you know it.
Heh... That backpack is a beast. Just has a crappy wand.
One of my buddies uses an automotive oil filter as the air filter, he found one that had threads close enough to the NPT and it threaded on easily. It cut the noise way down and according to him it didn't lower the compressor's efficiency.
Something like that might work, but all of the compressors I've seen have female threads.
@@TheBrokenLifeA pipe nipple solves that.
@@DonziGT230 Sure, if you can find a nipple that corresponds to the thread size on the head and an oil filter. I _think_ the thread on that compressor is M20. I have no clue if there are M20 oil filters out there.
What I ended up doing in the end is getting a Solberg filter housing that is made for air compressors. They cost a little bit, but it's a nice solution. They also add the capability to add a snorkel to the filter, which some guys claim lowers noise on some compressors. I haven't tried that yet myself.
Hi it may be worth fitting a moisture filter before your fittings to stop corrosion.
That's absolutely in the long term plan. I honestly didn't expect to have the corrosion troubles you saw in the video, or at least not that extreme.
This was my thought also. I’m building a copper pipe radiator type like everyone else has.
Great vid,thank you! I didn't know the regulator on these small compressors could be so restrictive!
I am concerned about using ful pressure on certain tools like finish/brad nailers and pneumatic rivet guns, etc. Did you put a remote regulator in your system for tools like this? If so,what brand do you recommend?
Thanks again! (Really clever with the filter!👍)
Thanks!
I didn't know they could be that restrictive either until many years of ownership. It wasn't until I attempted to use a 1/2" impact gun with mine that I discovered the problem. Then I ran into the problem twice more in other people's shops...
Just to get you by for tools with a relatively low flow rate, like nailers and such, the OEM regulators are fine. Put the one that came with your compressor on quick connectors so you can plug it in and out as you choose.
I'll be covering regulators in a future video, but my general preference is to try to find something industrial grade on the surplus market. Even a fairly well used Parker, IR, SMC, etc will be much higher quality than something from the home improvement store. That said, almost anything is an improvement over what comes on these units.
@@TheBrokenLifenot to be a smart-ass, but why not move the regulator to the other side of the tee? That way you have one full-flow and one regulated outlet, leaving you the ability to use more precise tools?
@@avedesco If I had planned it all out from the start I absolutely could have. But, I'm positive the day the regulator came off it went straight into the trash out of frustration, and then the tee came along at some point in the future. In all honesty, I always had the regulator wide-open anyhow so I never mourned the loss. Even to this day many years later, I'm not sure if I have anything that minds the occasional 125psi. My die grinders ran for years and years at 180... not that you should do that yourself.
But, I do have a new regulator now and plan to soft-plumb it into the system so it can be selected or bypassed easily. I just haven't gotten around to the video yet.
The largest restriction I found is the fittings themselves. Replacing them with high flow fittings and 3/8 id hose let my ingersol rand 1/2 impact handle f350 wheel nuts. No problems except trying to find quality high flow fittings that don't leak.
I keep hearing good things about the Milton V fittings. I plan to take a look at them in the future.
So if you install a reservoir attached to the compressor want that take care of lack of pressure ?
That will add volume, so it will increase the amount of time before the compressor turns on, but it will not increase pressure. It will also cause the compressor to run long to refill the additional volume.
A guy I used to work with showed me a trick on the air filter. Take a chunk of gas pipe (galvanized, whatever) and screw it into the intake, then get a screw on air filter and boom. This way the intake is away from the compressor so it's not sucking in hot air, if you run the pipe out through the wall and put the air filter on the outside of the building you won't believe how much quieter the compressor is, just make sure it's not in a spot where rain and moisture will be a problem.
Yep, that's certainly another way to go about it. I have since switched off to Solberg housings that have a provision for a snorkel, somewhat like you're describing.
I’ve got a HF compressor. Bought it in ‘98. Still in use today. Your not using channel locks right. You had them backwards
That's quite a good run out of one! And... See the pinned comment. 👍
THANK YOU FOR VIDEO
Thanks for watching it! 👍
I bought that model air compressor awhile back. The motor shaft is press fitted to the pump. Mine had a key way cut in the shaft but no key. The shaft destroyed the pump. Watch out for this problem.
Ouch... These cheap guys always seem to find a creative way to die.
also try high flow milton fittings, makes a difference on impact guns, sand blaster and hvlp spray guns
I've moved on to Parker fittings since, as far as I can tell, they don't have any steel parts to corrode.
That said, one of the issues with these cheap compressors is that the biggest hole in the tank is 1/4" NPT. So even if I were to run no fittings and just plumb directly to the tank, that's all the better it would ever get. My new compressor (video linked here: th-cam.com/video/prOpMyOkPK8/w-d-xo.html) has 1 1/4" bungs in the tank so at some point I'm likely to try much larger plumbing. When I do, it will for sure be on the channel. 👍
You have a strange way of doing things. I'll just point out one error you made. For your drain, you made it so the drain valve is still under the tank and a PITA to reach. Why? You should have just attached a short piece of brass pipe to to the "L" long enough to end outside the bottom of the tank. Then add a ball valve to it with a large lever. That's what I did. To drain water, I just open the valve with my foot. No need to get on the floor to open the valve. It literally takes virtually no effort to drain the water and it's so easy that I do it so often that there's no build up of water in the tank. Forget the hose! Just let the moisture blow out. You've made things much more complicated than necessary without solving the real problem - that is access to the valve. Also, why in the world would you even think of running the compressor without an air filter as you said you did? That's an incredibly bad idea. Upgrading the air filter is OK but unnecessary but never run a compressor without an air filter. You made more odd mistakes too.
I don't understand the complaint of putting a ball valve on the end of a 3' foot hose, which is _not_ "under" the compressor, vs. a solid pipe which _is._ The express reason it's on the end of a hose is so I don't have to get on the floor to operate it. There's normally also another hose on the end of the ball valve so I don't shoot water all over the shop when I drain it, making the entire thing about 6' long. If you like one or the other, fine. Whatever works for you.
Pretty sure I admitted in the video that I made a mistake when I removed the filter media from the filter housing. If you want me to say I was wrong for doing that, I was. I can say it 100 more times and nothing about it will change.
Thanks for watching...
I have this same compressor but it has a terrible problem starting.I have to turn the switch on and off and it tries to start but it’s working to hard and it starts and it blows the inline circuit breaker,either the one on the unit or another inline I use..when it was new I figured after a good break in period it would loosen up but it hasn’t yet.this one hasn’t had that much use but it’s getting old.I put the 2nd line on it but haven’t done anything with the gauge yet.this tank will be going into a compressor build soon.I did increase the filter size.
Mine does that in _cold_ weather. Are you running an appropriate air compressor oil? I run non-detergent straight 30W in mine.
Another thought is there could be something wrong with your contractor/pressure switch where it's drawing too much power. I'm not sure if it's this video or another one where I illustrated replacing mine.
Yeah,like I said it’s a couple yrs old but doesn’t have that much use.I was down for a few yrs needing back surgery but yeah I changed it after break in period and now has half and half syn and standard and the right cord.I put WD40 on the shaft next to the fan thinking it was turning by hand too hard and that made a big. difference but still stuck with the same crap.I have a har dryer I some times put on it a while and seems to help but same old crap overall
@@barrykilts4506 There could be a few things causing it, but it doesn't sound like normal behavior. I'd probably pop the cover off of the contactor and see if anything looks burned and maybe disconnect the small line at the check valve to make sure yours isn't leaking.
@@TheBrokenLife have the cover off now and all appears well but since I do a lot of steel cutting,grinding,welding and such I decided to change the oil and glad I did.don’t know for sure yet but alone may be enough of an improvement and if it is I’ll change it once more very soon and more often and improve the air breather/cleaner
@@barrykilts4506 Awesome! Hopefully it really was that easy!
The best way to keep those air fittings from ever leaking. Is about every 6 months put three to four drops of pump oil directly in them. Or if you don't have pump oil you can use the same oil that you drip into your air tools. All that is is pump oil.
That works unless you want to use your compressor for running a paint gun. Getting oil in a paint gun would be bad for your paint job.
@@TheBrokenLife, have separate fittings for your paint guns. It's FAR cheaper than the frustration involved.
@@affliction1979 I strongly agree. I have outright separate hoses for that kind of thing which never see oil (other than the garbage the compressor is passing through them).
@@TheBrokenLife, I've been working with air tools at work for approximately 20 years or so, yet I just bought my own, personal compressor. I'm literally in the middle of buying all the extra crap, so I can definitely understand. I really want to T my valve off to 1/4 and 3/8, but I'm not sure if my compressor can handle 3/8".
@@affliction1979 If your tool needs to consume the volume that 3/8" can provide, then that's what it needs. If your compressor can't keep up the demand of the tool, then you'll have to trade the flow rate of the compressor rebuilding the stored volume in the tank for your time. Standing around waiting for the compressor to recharge is a story I know well.
In my opinion, there is no such thing as too much volume. You can always take it away by various means, but you can't add it back once the plumbing is maxed out. If you've got something you think you need 3/8" for, then it won't ever hurt to have it.
For what it's worth, in all of the various air tool pursuits I've been on in my life, all but industrial applications have been with 1/4" M style fittings and I don't know any home hobbyists using larger. That includes stuff like sandblasting which just murders air. My limitation has always been the flow rate of the compressor itself.
Love that fox gt
Me too! We'll get to it in time.
Turn pliers the proper direction so they will grip.. thanks for the video!
I made a video addressing this...
th-cam.com/video/jsw9seQxq3Y/w-d-xo.html
Can you put the high flow couplers directly on your compressor? I have some from flexzilla there not brass though?
Sure. You can put couplers on anywhere there's a fitting on the tank.
@@TheBrokenLife ok so taking off the brass coupler and putting a flexzilla high flow is ok? The directly on the machine itself? Haha I just don't want to F up my unit cause I have no idea what I'm doing 😂
@@David-kg1hc It should be as straight forward as just changing one for the other. Just don't mess with anything to do with the control system or the over-pressure safety valve and you're fine.
That said... If you really don't know _anything_ about what you're doing, you may want to try to seek out someone local to double check what you're planning to do. None of this is complicated, but it is dangerous if you really screw up.
@@TheBrokenLife ok man thank you for your time!
@@David-kg1hc I'm happy to help. Good luck with it! 👍
I stuck a coil from a broken window ac unit and a line dryer between the compressor and the tank. the coil cools the air making the line dryer work better
That's almost exactly what I just did on my new compressor, featured in last Sunday's video. 👍
Use Milton Hi flow V style fittings. They move way more air than M style and the coupler will still accept M style male ends. But I replaced those too for my impact wrenches.
I've heard good things about those and plan to take a look at them. 👍
Have you did it yet I appreciate it so much bro
I didn't forget about you. It's gonna be a little while.
just guessing but that filter thread looks to be a 3/4 npt roughly and if so that opens your choices for more filters or at least a way to attach them?
It's M20. I was able to obtain an M20 to 3/4 adapter and put a Solberg housing on it a little while after I released this video. 👍
That said... Various reports from the field lead me to believe that not all HFT compressors have metric inlets. You have to check each one before making any plans.
@@TheBrokenLife good to know since i have the same compressor.
Haah... The way you fix your compressor air filter, is almost how we made the original legal airfilter box on our Mopeds into a "power Filter", because when giving it a larger cylinder, you need a larger carburetor and more air intake, to mach the increase in CCM and amount of gasoline, to get a perfect combination, but a regular(legal) was unable to deliver that amount, plus the flange would often be larger, so we'd empty out a large regular one, keep the front intact, but skeletonize the rest, and use the front as camouflage and the insides was something totally different, because a dead give away that you have fiddled with it, is the power Filter, sticking out from under the seat :)
Yep. That's pretty much exactly what I did. 😆
@@TheBrokenLife great video BTW... I am in the midst of making one of my own, from scratch. You are almost the only one, that also uses a airfilter!.. I had also ordered one, because It really did stick out too me how nobody really threw one on, and never even mentioned how "important" they actually are, for increasing it's longevity, and the general health of the tank, just like drainage, from humidity, it's like they think the water seperator on the regulator somehow will magicly evaporate the build-up, in the air-container also?!... so your brass coupling is a brilliant idea. that I'm going to steal for myself ;)
@@DreadPirarateAndersen Thanks, I'm glad you found the video helpful!
As far as the filter, in the long run I ended up scrapping that one and put a Solberg on it. It was way less effort and not that much more money for what is almost certainly a better filter.
Tank health is a big deal for me. Even if not for a rusty tank being a safety risk, it's just not financially realistic to re-tank most consumer level compressors if one ever springs a leak. If you lose the tank, the whole is thing is trash.
Speaking of... I'm in the midst of outfitting a new compressor with some other systems to keep that sort of thing to a minimum. Should be a decent set of videos. 🤞
What about increasing the diameter of the charge tube from the head to tank? Is there any improvement to be had there by going bigger?
I doubt it on a compressor of this size. But... I have heard of people finding casting imperfections that were obstructing the outlet on the cylinder head. It might be worth taking a look for something like that?
i bought a goodyear 30 gal from walmart with a digital regulator and it runs a 3/4" husky impact gun enough to remove a honda crank bolt. surprising that it doesnt have the presure drop off
I'm surprised by that too. A crank bolt is exactly what caused me to find this error the first time on mine.
I know this is old but just putting a 90 degree "pipe" elbow (male on one side female on other, like yours but cheaper since not brass and not needed connecting to steel), then just a pipe long enough to get to the outside of the tank, will withstand the full pressure all the time and you can add your ball valve there instead of underneath, and eliminate the need for a second ball valve. Also, I just use cheap clear vinyl tubing for the output since it's never under any real pressure.
The reason for the brass bar stock 90 is because it's about 1/2 the height of a standard black iron pipe elbow and fits under the tank without hitting the floor. I also prefer brass because it won't rot out like iron will or falsely indicate more rust in the tank than is actually present. It's a couple more bucks, but money well spent, IMO.
Sorta the same deal with a pipe to get it out to a leg instead of using hose. A pipe will eventual rot out, and make the discharge water appear rusty, but a hose never will. The purpose of the first ball valve at the tank, which honestly I had forgotten was even there until you mentioned it, is just in case the day ever came that I might damage the discharge hose and want to shut it off at the tank. It's been there for about 10 years and I've ever needed it. It probably wouldn't work anymore if I tried. 😆
This compressor has been retired, but on my new compressor I just put a valve on the hose and omitted it from the tank, using the same bar stock brass 90. I also added a water separator in-line between the compressor and the tank and used vinyl tubing for the water drain there. I confess that I used high pressure vinyl for the job, but that is mostly because it's less likely to kink shut and I prefer the look of it.
What all of that said, no matter how someone chooses to do it, a remote tank drain is worth whatever it costs to get done. It transforms a job that is a ridiculous pain into something that is just the flick of a switch. 👍
Thx , amazing.
What regulator do you recommend to buy if we want to replace the crappy one?
On compressors of this size, pretty much anything that is physically the size of a can of soda, or larger, at the home improvement store will do.
I've had a regulator video simmering on the back burner for awhile now that I really need to get to. 😆
Use your vise grips or channel locks with the lower jaw in the direction that your turning you will get a much better bite they are designed to work that way even the cut of the teeth are designed to work in one direction good luck 👍 I’m a plumber about drove crazy to watch lol
See the pinned comment. 👍
Do harbor Freight compressors ha US threaded fittings or metric?
It depends where. Even worse, it probably also depends on model.
All of the air ports (except the air intake on the cylinder head) I've ever seen on them are NPT. Everything else, I would assume metric, but you'll have to double check.
So by the time you make all these upgrades, how does the cost compare to just buying a higher end compressor?
Not even close. Sadly, even much higher end compressors still come with pretty crappy gauges, fittings, etc and all of the stuff I installed here will transfer over to any other compressor in the future.
The only real money wasted was on the filter housing, which was more for fun than anything. I ended up abandoning it for a Solberg unit not too long after this video.
That said, I did end up retiring this compressor and replacing it with a much higher end model (videos are all linked in the Air Compressors playlist, which is in the description). After waiting for months for a good sale, that compressor was ~$400. Regular price is around $700. So... In regular price dollars, it was probably about a $450 difference between what I did in this video (including the initial purchase price of the compressor) and my new compressor as it came out of the box. My new compressor also received the same treatment and then some.
JB plastic bonder flows perfectly for this application and has a strong bond.
I don't doubt it. I've been meaning to try some out! 👍
@@TheBrokenLife I just used it on a bumper Repair...it's great. Used it as a bonder and filler. Sands nice too...I use it with the nozzles... makes it pretty easy to lay.
@@DJDOUBLE077 Interestingly one of my upcoming projects is to fill some holes in a plastic bumper. I'll definitely give it a shot.
JB Weld is your friend. Enjoyed the video. I want a better air compressor.
That makes two of us... That one has let me down 2 more times since this video. C'mon black Friday!
Just a tip, but @4:15, your using the rib-joint adjustable pliers (Channel-locks) wrong. They will slip a lot less if you use the fixed jaw on the backside of the direction of travel. In other words, the adjustable jaw goes on the same side as the direction of travel.
See the pinned comment.
Use a crescent wrench on fittings and lay off the channel locks(tongue and groove) and other wrenches! They don't mar and round fittings...
The fittings themselves, where I was using the channel locks, are round.
@@TheBrokenLife yeah what I'm getting at is if you don't use channel lock pliers on a fitting not already rounded and instead use a crescent wrench you avoid this entire issue, lol...
@@AWIERD1 I understand your point. My point is there is no hex on those fittings and there never was. The have round bodies with knurling and that's it.
Look up a Milton S-715 and you'll see it. The only hex on it is for installation, not for disassembly.
I have a little 4gal compressor so in order to run high vol tools I attached a harbor freight 10gal tank($50) and now I have the volume of a 14gal compressor and can run my plasma cutter and die grinder
I would suspect you're not running your plasma and die grinder for very long..?
@@TheBrokenLife with the extra tank I get about 45 seconds of plasmacutting at 35psi before the compressor kicks on, then about a full minute before the psi dropps enough to where I can't keep cutting. I get about 30 seconds of die grinder. Thought about getting a second one
@@autodidacticartisan That's about what I would have guessed. I admire and respect the make-it-work attitude, but that amount of run time would drive me bonkers. Even something like the cheap HFT compressor I showed in this video would be a huge upgrade for you. You won't be running stuff non-stop, but you would easily multiply your productivity by 5 or maybe 10 in the case of the plasma.
It looks like the cheapest similar one they have these days is about $250.
@@TheBrokenLife I've been considering getting their 26 gallon ultra quiet compressor. It looks very nice and I've seen some good reviews. Tbh a minute is enough time to cut most things on the plasma cutter. I'd really be wanting it for the die grinder and other high flow tools.
@@autodidacticartisan Die grinders are pigs for sure. You just can't have enough air to run one.
Great video
How did it run with the new filter?
Not awesome in my opinion, but it's not really a fair comparison vs. none. That's why I didn't time it and share the results. Only a moron like me would be running without one at all. ;)
I'm considering trying to move up to an automotive or motorcycle filter in the future. If I do that, I'll for sure compare the two head-to-head.
@@TheBrokenLife use a hole saw and drill some holes on the outside of the cover, give you more airflow
@@garrymccoy4053 I had the same thought and may give it a try.
The plastic part of my air cleaner housing melted that threaded into the head. I have no idea how to fix it. So I’ve been living with nothing for many years and it sucks. I am more of a moron.
@@toddkokko5049 I think the joke is on both of us because the performance without a filter is about twice as good as with one. I kinda wish I hadn't fixed it! ;)
I think extending your air intake with an elbow and short pipe could bring it up in open air.. I hope to get a better compress some day. Thanks for the tips
Indeed, it would. I ended up switching filter housings not too long after this video to one that allows for a remote intake. It's made by Solberg.
Nice video, however you may do better using your vise-grips in the correct direction to avoid stripping. Pressure should always be applied toward the smaller grip. They are designed to grip better when used in the correct direction. I am certainly not trying to distract from the core message of your informative video. This is just a tip I learned from a 'Long-Time' master mechanic. This is something that I learned after using vise-grip tools incorrectly for years, not knowing that they were more effective when used as they were designed. Just like a regular wrench: Always apply pressure in the direction of the smaller grip.
I believe you're the 3rd or 4th person to mention that. ;)
Strong "This Old Tony" vibes.
Wow... Any comparison to the master himself is way too generous. 🤣👍
i put a length of steel pipe between my elbow and the shut off on the drain so the valve is right beside the front leg
Whatever works! 👍
Don't take the retainer collar and balls out' the connectors screw apart below the sliding collar (where he first tried with the plier), above where it screws into the fitting, only use good fitting wrenches not pliers, when I reassemble them only hand tight they do not leak so it doesn't take much tightening
Yep. Lesson I learned the hard way!
My wife uses "Pipettes", tiny glass tubes with a very narrow tip, to apply glue in tight places. Fingertip on the top prevents the glue coming out where you don't want it.
Great tip! 👍
@@TheBrokenLife pun intended?
@@cm1133 heh... I wish! 😆
Thx u bro so much
No problem... Working on it now.
Has anyone tried using the oiless 6 hp motor on a oil set up using different pump?I’m gonna try putting a belt system on 60 gal.tank with harbor freight 5 hp pump.once all the craps off the motor it should work work with a little coaxing
With enough effort I imagine anything is possible. If you have all of that stuff just sitting around there's no harm in trying to repurpose it.
If you're worried about heat from the head getting drawn into your filter, just block off the existing holes and make new ones elsewhere.
That was my thought too, but I ended up switching to a Solberg housing.
@@TheBrokenLife Another upgrade you might want to think about adding is an aftercooler and water separator to put in between your compressor head and the tank. That should eliminate your water problem entirely if you do it well. That tank will last far longer after that mod.
@@ronyerke9250 I absolutely agree and I did exactly that to my new compressor in last week's video. 👍
@@TheBrokenLife Yeah, I wached last week's video right after I left that comment. Did you keep the old H.F. compressor tank for extra volume in your system?
@@ronyerke9250 I kept the entire HFT unit as a spare compressor since it does still work despite eating head gaskets at a break neck pace.
I considered plumbing them together but the HFT is only good for 125PSI and the DeWalt is 155PSI. I could regulate a line down for the HFT, but it just didn't seem worth the effort. The 30 gallon tank on the DeWalt is pretty nicely balanced for the size of the compressor.
I was never told to oil my for my framing nailer when I built my recording studio. Strange.
That air outlet is supposed to be at the bottom of the tank. Do not run a 90° or it will not empty any water out of it completely. Only real upgrade is a water/air separator filter and a ¹/² adapter & hose.
I enjoyed the video! Your compressor has a catheter.
Thanks! 😂
For impacts I don't bother regulating their input pressure since they'll cope easily with the max my various crap compressors put out. In that case a regulator is merely a flow restriction and the compressor would fail before overloading any impact tool.
The comments are full of people disagreeing (some pretty intensely) with both of us for doing that. 😂
Why brass instead of stainless, to keep corrosion at a minimum? I'm asking as a novice.
Mostly just for cost. Stainless is a great option too.
2 years ago I know, but if anyone wants to try this, jb plastic weld is great for the air filter mod.
Lots of folks have said good things about it. 👍
And... I probably wouldn't do that one again. I replaced that housing with a Solberg unit that cost a couple of bucks, but is much nicer in the end.
I'm here laughing at my 15 year old harbor freight fittings that still don't leak. Thanks for the video.
Hopefully you didn't just jinx yourself! 😆
Fingers crossed, but honestly if they leaked tomorrow I would just go grab another pair.
@@cm.5023 That's what I did for many years as well. I just didn't have your luck.
Use DOT rated plastic air line for your air tank drain remote .
I imagine you certainly could do that. It's more difficult for me to get that than it is to use regular air hose.
Something you can look into also is rewiring the motor for 240v. Most compressor motors can be wired for 120 or 240v. It will preform slightly better at the higher voltage, and it will use less electricity.
I will use the same net amount of electricity but it will use fewer amps on 240v. The rpm's will remain unchanged so the performance will be the same regardless of input voltage.
This guy needs to watch a video of how to use vise grips and channel locks
I believe you're the 4th or 5th person to mention that. Believe me, I got the message.
@@TheBrokenLife If you turn the channel locks around they work much better. Like a pipe wrench. But maybe you've already been told that.
@@gailtaylor1636 I've been seriously considering _only_ using them backward in future videos and making it an easter egg for the channel! :)
@@TheBrokenLife Bought 2 broken husky comp. 27 & 30 gal. 27 was cooked. 30 had broken regulator knob, destroyed the spring somehow too and after digging deeper one of the three comp bracket mounting tabs is broken. Little afraid to press drive pulley off motor to allow switching motor/comp brackets. I bet it's a smooth shaft and pulley held on by hopes & prayers. So... swapped regulator onto 30 gallon and fired it up without fixing broken mount...yeah that's not gonna last. Will break the discharge line that runs to tank. But fortunately the regulator was leaking so had to tear it down anyway. Going your direction and plumbing it solid w/o regulator. I'll buy a cheap reg and put a q-connect on it for the rare time I need it. Think I'll use a piece of steel and make a tab to replace the broken mount. I have the broken piece but doubt this cast "aluminum" can be welded. Plus expensive. Wanted to bolt an L-shaped piece on but haven't found what I need yet.
@@gailtaylor1636 When in doubt, JB Weld and some scrap steel can do wonders for broken aluminum castings. Not something I'd do for anything critical or safety related, but for a mount like that it would probably be fine.
How do I take off a air compressor regulator mine is not like to it's connected in one can make a video like how to take it off please
What compressor?
Mccraw
Please
I really want it off
Ok
At least your honest. I still give u thumbs up. Thank u. Good idea tho.
I appreciate you saying that. 👍
I might be a bit late to the party but i want to say that the main point of discussion is moot
That part of the fitting is meant to be unscrewed using a rod that fits in the holes present on the part
Also, pliers are almost never ideal, a strap wrench should be present in every house where someone knows how a screwdriver works
I made a follow up video on disassembling the fittings and linked it in the pinned comment.
@@TheBrokenLife i guess i really was late to the party, huh
@@angrydragonslayer The good news is that the party never stops! 😆
I did think about your comment and I would be interested in finding a strap wrench that gets down small enough for things like air fittings. The smallest one I could find will only get down to about 2".
Your channel locks and vice grips were backwards. They work better and wont shave material off if they were flipped the right way. Ebay has cheap filters with threads. Same price as Briggs filter with no rigging
I do plan to revisit the filter in the near future. I'm not happy with the performance of what I ended up with.