I use a long 1" wide nylon brush and Amsoil Power Foam. The foam fills the intake runners and cleans those off as well. Melts all of it like butter. Looks BRAND new when I am done.
Instead of using paper towels, I use a shop vac to siphon the fluid while spraying it with a cleaner or a bottle of compressed air. That worked really well.
Most aerosol cleaners are flammable so I don't feel good having them near an electric motor. I'm sure it works good but I personally don't like the risks associated with it.
This is a good point. Buy long zipties so you don't have to get as close as I did. Ideally the chuck would never touch the intake but I'm sure there were a couple of times it accidently did. I did not notice any damage if I did touch it to the intake.
Zip ties huh? That's a clever trick, I'll keep it as number two in case that plastic brush I plan to use doesn't work. Btw, if you think your engine is bad, oh boy, you ain't seen nothing. I had to use pressure washer on those parts of the intake I can remove. The rest of the engine intake channels have 5-12 mm buildup on it. I ain't running that thing again until I have a catch can. It's less work to empty a can every now an then, compared to having to dismantle the top of the engine and remove all that greasy soot.
Hey, i have a question. I will do the same thing in this video, but i will use a wire brush, is that safe for my intake valve? Please answer. Greetings from Indonesia. Thank you
I don’t recommend it because you’re working in an aluminum head. With a metal brush you may cause damage to the head because the brush is harder material than aluminum. If you use a nylon “bottle brush” that may work.
You could probably do this much chepaer with a STP valve cleaner kit. you do this very 50k miles and that along with good oil and fuel treatment , you should have no issues.
Fuel treatment does nothing for this issue. Anybody who says otherwise is probably selling something. The STP valve cleaner kit may work (I haven’t tried it) but it does cost more than what I do in this video. If you have any sort of drill this technique only costs about $7 and on the hondas you have to do most of this disassembly to adjust the valves anyway
It is not a car I drive regularly but if the valves get dirty enough they can cause performance issues. Generally with this level of carbon you would only see a slight decrease in power at wide open throttle. I personally didn't notice any difference.
@@clb_52 as long as you have oil being sprayed and baked onto a hot valve with nothing to rinse it off you WILL have this problem eventually. OIl change interval changes and different formulations are just ways for the manufacturer to dodge liability and have not been proven to fix the issue
There are no injectors in the intake manifold which is why the gas doesn’t wash the valves but just about every engine in existence operates with an intake manifold.
Most people have a different idea of what is cheap. I would guess that this would cost most people 200-500 at a shop. However you can accomplish what's in this video for less than $50 and you get to keep the tools. There isn't really much risk involved as long as you make sure the valves are closed on the cylinder you're working on. The reason why I did this "the shade tree" way is because I don't trust shops to do the job well and I didn't want to invest money in a media blaster that I have no other use for.
I use a long 1" wide nylon brush and Amsoil Power Foam. The foam fills the intake runners and cleans those off as well. Melts all of it like butter. Looks BRAND new when I am done.
Instead of using paper towels, I use a shop vac to siphon the fluid while spraying it with a cleaner or a bottle of compressed air. That worked really well.
Most aerosol cleaners are flammable so I don't feel good having them near an electric motor. I'm sure it works good but I personally don't like the risks associated with it.
Banging that drill chuck against the intake scared the hell out of me
This is a good point. Buy long zipties so you don't have to get as close as I did. Ideally the chuck would never touch the intake but I'm sure there were a couple of times it accidently did. I did not notice any damage if I did touch it to the intake.
Tip - slide a long section of clear plastic tubing over the bundle of zip-ties with a zip-tie strapped at the end.
I like that idea over the multiple zip ties holding the bundle. Next time I do a valve adjustment I’ll give it a try.
$120 and you will have your own walnut blast set up. You get to do it whenever u feel like it and the tools are yours.
EGR on direct injection is a bloody stupid thing.
Zip ties huh? That's a clever trick, I'll keep it as number two in case that plastic brush I plan to use doesn't work. Btw, if you think your engine is bad, oh boy, you ain't seen nothing. I had to use pressure washer on those parts of the intake I can remove. The rest of the engine intake channels have 5-12 mm buildup on it. I ain't running that thing again until I have a catch can. It's less work to empty a can every now an then, compared to having to dismantle the top of the engine and remove all that greasy soot.
Hey, i have a question. I will do the same thing in this video, but i will use a wire brush, is that safe for my intake valve? Please answer. Greetings from Indonesia. Thank you
I don’t recommend it because you’re working in an aluminum head. With a metal brush you may cause damage to the head because the brush is harder material than aluminum.
If you use a nylon “bottle brush” that may work.
@@thehondafitguy aaahh i see. Thank you for your suggest 🤝
You could probably do this much chepaer with a STP valve cleaner kit. you do this very 50k miles and that along with good oil and fuel treatment , you should have no issues.
Fuel treatment does nothing for this issue. Anybody who says otherwise is probably selling something.
The STP valve cleaner kit may work (I haven’t tried it) but it does cost more than what I do in this video.
If you have any sort of drill this technique only costs about $7 and on the hondas you have to do most of this disassembly to adjust the valves anyway
I didn't know Ernie from Sesame Street worked on cars.
Burt used to help but then there was “the accident”
How many miles were on this fit?
about 147000 miles
@@thehondafitguythat pretty clean for that mileage...
Don’t buy a GDI engine unless it’s also port injected as well …
Any difference in performance??
It is not a car I drive regularly but if the valves get dirty enough they can cause performance issues.
Generally with this level of carbon you would only see a slight decrease in power at wide open throttle.
I personally didn't notice any difference.
Long oil change intervals is mostly responsible for this problem with modern engines
Long oil change intervals don't help but the lack of port injection is what causes this problem on direct injected engines.
@@thehondafitguy GF-6 oil is formulated that problem but long oil change intervals defeat the purpose
@@clb_52 as long as you have oil being sprayed and baked onto a hot valve with nothing to rinse it off you WILL have this problem eventually. OIl change interval changes and different formulations are just ways for the manufacturer to dodge liability and have not been proven to fix the issue
If it’s GDI, it’s by design (flaw). No gas spritz on the intake. Don’t waste money on gas additives for valve cleaning.
Many are now going to dual injectors 1 DI and 1 Port. To help with this issue
I thought direct injection never had an intake manifold
There are no injectors in the intake manifold which is why the gas doesn’t wash the valves but just about every engine in existence operates with an intake manifold.
Take it to the garage. It’s cheap. Don’t risk it shade tree mechanics.
Most people have a different idea of what is cheap. I would guess that this would cost most people 200-500 at a shop. However you can accomplish what's in this video for less than $50 and you get to keep the tools.
There isn't really much risk involved as long as you make sure the valves are closed on the cylinder you're working on. The reason why I did this "the shade tree" way is because I don't trust shops to do the job well and I didn't want to invest money in a media blaster that I have no other use for.
It’s such a simple job lol dudes that can’t even turn a wrench would make such statements
500 here too. Walnuts blasting though...
Yas of kors