try another cleaner..that has a better reputation..crc has been shown to be less effective in other videos..find one that some big name auto shops use like Big O or NTB. good video.
@@DIYAutoworksNG in the USA they are tire service and auto maintenance shops ..so they will do that service you just performed but use a big name cleaner.
Great video, I appreciate you showing each valves before and after. I’ve been watching a bunch of videos comparing combustion chamber and valve cleaners from CRC/all sorts of other products in an effort to figure out the best thing to use on my engine and this video definitely helped me draw some conclusions, so thank you!
The valve seat is were it matters. The carbon can keep it from sealing all the way if it cleans the seat and the valve were it seats it will make a big difference
Trying this CRC is just a waste of money. Get yourself a walnut sand blasting machine on Amazon and remove all that carbon buildup the right way. I did it , and the results are way better . Good luck 👍🏻
It says give it 1000 miles to get cleaned i assume ut weakens carbon and over time bits of it break apart. Also probably 3 cans will make a decent difference?
Neat study, I like how you present your vids. I wish I knew, but you did give those intake valves, and ports a wet look. Now I can't help but wonder if that carbon will eventually come off over a month or several months since the carbon is now 'wetted' and saturated with whatever chemical was in the CRC cleaner. Great vid. Liked👍
Many thanks. I like your logic on whether it would continue to clean. I'll give it another exam and see if there's any additional cleaning. Thanks a lot for the suggestion!
Its stated by CRC that you get best results by using your car as much as possible after using the intake cleaner. I'm doing it today i'll update how it goes.
I've used two cans in the past two weeks , one can each week . I definitely could feel my car running smoother and quicker acceleration . I sprayed both times through the disconnected hose from the brake booster . I started my car and then put a wooden rod from the edge of drivers seat to gas pedal , moving the seat forward until 2500 RPMs . I was continually spraying it and car didn't stall out , but kept running niormally . Now I will try Berryman's Valve cleaner .
@@DIYAutoworksNG This past week I used the Berryman B-12 intake valve cleaner . I applied it into the throttle body as best suggestion . Be sure to press hard down on the press tab until it clicks , and fluid starts flowing . Then got back in car to keep gas pedal at 2000-2500 RPMs and it seemed to take at least 15 minutes before used up . I could not tell as I sat in drivers seat if it was still flowing , so got out and checked at various times . If they would put a dye in it , green or red to easily tell that it was still flowing and then stopped to see clear hose . I noticed smoke , bluish coming from tailpipe and strong chemical smell . When I went for a drive after waiting 30 minutes as said . At first traffic light , engine wanted to stall . So I put foot on brake pedal and other on gas pedal giving gas until light changed to green . Then there was so problem , acceleration and power seemed to be better with CRC Intake Valve Cleaner . Though I expect it was that the valves at that time had been dirtier . Though I will use Berrymans again it as I think it is carbon being burned off in exhaust . Since I was under the hood spraying CRC into the hose disconnected from the brake booster , I could not see the exhaust .
Excellent video. Thank you. Most cleaners seem to performed the same. I guess that sooner or later, if you keep a GDI car long enough, to clean the valves one would have to do it with the engine open.
The reason the valves looked slightly cleaner after those several days is because the CRC cleaner actually states that it continues to clean over the next few days following the initial application of it. Every video I watch is so critical of the results of these products they expect it to remove intake valve carbon deposits and restore them to like new condition just because the picture on the can shows it like that but nothing except an actual walnut blasting service will remove carbon deposits from intake valves enough to make any real difference and the results of these store bought products cannot produce results to that of a walnut blasting service. It's expensive but walnut blasting is worth the price I get it done on my WRX every 20K but of course I'm an auto shop manager so I barely pay anything to do it myself at work lol. But I do use these chemical products in between walnut blasting every 20k miles or so at each oil change and I perform full service oil changes every 2K miles so at each service I run a can of it thru as a way to keep the intake valves and system clean and maintained to prevent further buildup. So a walnut blasting service every 20K with a can of CRC every oil change every 2K to keep it clean. Of course I'm very anal about overly frequent service but it barely costs me anything cuz I manage a service shop but it's a good plan to follow for anyone. But only a walnut blasting will truly remove deposits these cans of cleaners can keep the intake valves clean but they won't actually deep clean anything I mean think about how insanely hard carbon is and how stubborn it is to remove it requires strong but safe abrasive cleaning action like walnut shell media shooting at it under crazy high pressure at close range to get that crap off the valves no store bought cleaner is gona do anything like that lol
Good observations. Don't get me wrong this product clearly works, it's the claim that CRC has boldly written on it that people haven't been able to reproduce; "removes 46% buildup in 1 HR", plus as you say, that night and day image on the can. I still use it every oil change to at least keep that build up under control.
I was thinking the same thing in regard to the CRC (PEA in general) continues to clean over time. I know this product works wonders in my 2016 Kia GDI engine
Bro.. every 2k? That’s a bit over the top no?. Especially if you’re going to walnut blast every 20k. You may as well invest in a higher quality oil instead.
I've finally used this product, not going through the brake booster line but just directly into the throttle body. Couple days later got a CEL code for an upstream oxygen sensor that this spray blast would have hit first. Wondering if I damaged the oxygen sensor, or its readings are off now due to the spray. I forgot to let it heat soak for a while after the service, and drove the car right after spraying it. On the freeway too.
What car and what's the O2 sensor code? Did you have any abnormal sounds from the engine during the process or drive? Personally, I've never had an O2 sensor code after using a cleaner. But stuff happens. Could also be a coincidence.
@DIYAutoworksNG a gdi turbo engine. Ford Taurus sho. No abnormal sounds, but the spray really stunk when we put it in. Never ran weird either during or after the service
I add catalytic converter cleaner to a tank of premium before carbon cleaning to ensure the carbon gets hot enough to burn off easily if it makes it’s way through to the catalyst
Also did a video on that, with before and after shots of the catalytic converter. You can watch and let me know your thoughts... th-cam.com/video/Uy5YLEDhT_k/w-d-xo.html
I agree. After watching some other videos on TH-cam and yours, I appreciate your Honesty, it's clear that using GDI cleaner from a can is not a big improvement. I'd say, unless you are having actual issues with Carbon Build-up like hard starts, misfiring, poor acceleration, etc., then just leave it be. And if you need a cleaning then spend the money and time and remove the Intake Manifold and get inside there and scrub them clean the right way.
Amazing info. Which valve cleaner is recommended for Toyota cars. Also is there a way to use without the technically skills you used in this video? There are loads of product sold at gas stations and they simply empty the contents into the fuel thank 🤔
Thanks, mate. It depends on your Toyota. Some newer models have dual injection (port injection plus GDI). If that's the case, the gas tank approach will work quite well.
Have seen many people try various products. BG makes some too. Nothing really seems to do much. The real question is do you want to pay for the shop time or money to use one of these cleaners AND walnut blasting, or just skip right to walnut blasting. Either way, you're paying for walnut blasting.
In summery...it doesn't clean well enough, it's a waste of time. The ONLY way is to manually clean and intake manifold MUST be removed along with a whole lot of other related parts to properly clean the back of valves AND the intake ports. It's a rather time consuming (and expensive) process. Walnut blasting is the standard for this procedure.
Mechanical cleaning is seeming to be the conclusion, which I may eventually get to. I have one more target chemical cleaning product before I go mechanical!
I just put CRC into my car with 157K miles and it was like a miracle. I get if I had it manually scraped, or walnut cleaned it would be better, but I have to say after waiting the hour and driving the 10 minutes, my car no longer has rough idle, or the ticky valve sound and my mileage has improved considerably. Not perfect, yeah you are right, but compared so some of the other crap they sell you for your car, at least this does something noticeable and it is a lot cheaper than having the mechanic spend a few hours futzing around my car. Besides I did take it to the mechanic complaining about poor mileage, and the mechanic just did all the things I did already (check plugs, make sure O2 sensors were in tolerance ...) and charged me $150. I did get an oil change out of it.
Very nce test. I've seen similiar one on AliMECH channel and results were equally pathetic. I have 1.6 N14 engine [aka THP] and recently sprayed a can of Xado Anticarbon through a PCV hose, seems like done something, but I do it only preventively, my valves were cleaned mechanically 4000km ago. I can recommend Xado, it's really serious chemical agent.
Thanks for sharing. Yea, definitely doesn't clean as much as it claims. Just hearing of Xado for the first time. I'll look out for it. I will also be testing a couple more intake cleaners. I've seen a spray solution from liqui moly as well.
@@DIYAutoworksNG Xado is brand from Ukraine, so it's cheap and they produce effective stuff. I'm from Poland, so practically next door, they've been selling their chemicals here for many years. Can't wait for more of your tests :D I used Liqui Moly throttle body cleaner and it washed the carbon away with no problem, but it was outside the car, so much easier.
I been using crc since i bought my car its only 5 years old very oil change i do this also it does not work one time you have to keep using it like oil change cost alot of money in the long run will be half prize doing wal nut blasting,but if you started at 1 year old car brand new it will prevent it. and also i dont put it on vaccum hose i find better on throttle body.its a maintenance like oil change you have to keep using it every year you cant use it when your car is like 7 years old its going to be hard to remove it most are so thick.
Agree 100%. I got the car used, and have used it every single year since getting it. You're the 3rd or 4th person stating better results via spraying through the throttle body. I'll use that approach next time.
Just like the videos who specialize in walnut blasting & manual cleaning of intake manifolds say. These cans only make negligible improvements. And also show only benefits on the walls, not the intake valves.
GDI stands for 'Gas Direct Injection' which means the valves don't get any gasoline sprayed on them as they would in the older PI (port injected) engines. The gas sprayed on the valves kept all that carbon from building up and that doesn't happen on these newer GDI engines.
seems like every intake cleaner test has the same results regardless of the brand. Just wets the carbon down. I'd like to see what happens if two doses are used one right after another then a spirited drive.
CRC has its GDI Service Pack Kit that besides the Intake Valve Cleaner, also includes cleaners for the Throttle Body, MAF and a Fuel System Additive... I think I'll try tracking down some of the "CRC Gasoline 1-Tank Power Renew" Fuel Additive to compliment my Intake Valve Cleaning during my upcoming Oil Change. On that front how soon after Intake Valve Treatment(s) do you change the Oil? Trying to decide if I decide to try a "double dose" over 2 weeks if the Oil should get dumped at 3 weeks? Or if the cleaner will compromise the Oil and maybe change it out shortly (within a few days?) of the last treatment
Usually, I change a few days after the CRC treatment, but I've actually been wondering what to do with the 2x treatment. Might just change immediately after the 2nd CRC can with about 2 weeks in between treatments.
@@lgoamity I use redline FI cleaner. I put 2 bottles in 19 gallons before a road trip last month. I changed oil when I got back but only because the trip had some seriously hard driving at well over 10,000 foot. Pikes PeaK!! One off the bucket list.
@@datsuntoyy The Redline SI-1 (60103) Fuel System Cleaner? Tried that before (haven't pulled the Spark Plugs to check for an "After" comparison yet...) hopeful that it is worth the extra cost (compared to just using a Top Tier Detergent Fuel and maybe one of a variety of "cheap" but well known fuel additives).
@rusack7174 Oh no, another butthurt fanboy hating on a famous youtuber, imagine my shock. Your jealous obsession over a certain youtuber has no relevance on the success rate of ATS 505. It's not your fault that your dad left, run along now junior, the adults are having a conversation.
Waited too long.. These cleaners only work on soft carbon build ups. Hard caramelized carbon caking needs mechanical cleaning.This process only works on new engine at 15000-25000 mile intervals.
@gtiguy1992able GDI Engines are "Gas Direct Injected" doesn't matter what type of fuel or fuel additives you use, the gas never touches the intake valves.
Thanks for the suggestion. I saw one other video where it was sprayed via the throttle yet, results were similar to mine. I got some other products that I'd try. If they don't do better, I'll give this another chance as suggested. Thank you!
@@DIYAutoworksNG I recommend the seafoam top end spray. Spray at 2,000 rpm until empty, then turn off engine for 10 min and let sit, then crank and give her some firm revs and go for a drive and make sure to drive it hard so the carbon comes out.
They should be sued for false advertising. And forced to change the magical picture on their can. Imagine how much they've made from suckers like us all who believed it cleans it anywhere near as much as the picture shows. And that 46% claim too.
I'll give it one more go through the throttle body route. Some others seem to get more impressive results... Maybe there's some other factor at play compression ratio or something.
Maybe the manufacturer forgot to add information that this product was created and designed specifically for vehicles with a mileage of under 500 miles...😂
@@DIYAutoworksNG true, in Italy you can find it, but what costs is the vacuum cleaner, I was thinking of using a manual vacuum cleaner or the one at home by putting in some adapted tubes...
@ce9xy I wanted to get it one time while in the UK and the only seller on Amazon was in Italy. He didn't have so much good reviews so I left it. I already got a manual vacuum pump which I can use for it. Wasn't expensive. Got from Aliexpress under $20
@@DIYAutoworksNG secondo te riuscira' ad aspirare tutto? io non lo ho provato, ma penso che di meglio ci sia solo lo smontaggio e pulizia manuale dei singoli pezzi.
I think it should suck up everything. Also, even after sucking you will still crank the engine without the spark plugs installed, that will push out whatever is left
After trying other intake valve cleaners specifically on GDI engines, I think CRC can't be easily dismissed. What I haven't tested is Berryman intake valve cleaner.
What's your preferred cleaner or method for the intake valves? Do you think this performance is worth buying the CRC intake valve cleaner? 🤔
Best way is to pull the intake and blast the valves with walnut shells. There’s no magic bullet to clean those. 8-(
try another cleaner..that has a better reputation..crc has been shown to be less effective in other videos..find one that some big name auto shops use like Big O or NTB. good video.
Thanks, mate. What's the full meaning of big O and NTB?
@@DIYAutoworksNG in the USA they are tire service and auto maintenance shops ..so they will do that service you just performed but use a big name cleaner.
Okay. Thanks.
The videography of the valves is very good. I am certain that the product will clean the residue off of the ports before it cleans the valves.
Thanks, mate.
Your logic checks out, since the product will likely hit the intake ports before the valves.
Great video, I appreciate you showing each valves before and after. I’ve been watching a bunch of videos comparing combustion chamber and valve cleaners from CRC/all sorts of other products in an effort to figure out the best thing to use on my engine and this video definitely helped me draw some conclusions, so thank you!
Glad to help
The valve seat is were it matters. The carbon can keep it from sealing all the way if it cleans the seat and the valve were it seats it will make a big difference
Great point!
Great points
Trying this CRC is just a waste of money. Get yourself a walnut sand blasting machine on Amazon and remove all that carbon buildup the right way. I did it , and the results are way better . Good luck 👍🏻
Many of us would just end up at a dealership$$. Shade tree ain’t gonna pull the engine apart. This might do it for regular folk ,not mechanics.
It says give it 1000 miles to get cleaned i assume ut weakens carbon and over time bits of it break apart. Also probably 3 cans will make a decent difference?
Great video, great narration, very clear and love the extended review over 10 days!
Many thanks!
Neat study, I like how you present your vids. I wish I knew, but you did give those intake valves, and ports a wet look. Now I can't help but wonder if that carbon will eventually come off over a month or several months since the carbon is now 'wetted' and saturated with whatever chemical was in the CRC cleaner. Great vid. Liked👍
Many thanks. I like your logic on whether it would continue to clean. I'll give it another exam and see if there's any additional cleaning. Thanks a lot for the suggestion!
Its stated by CRC that you get best results by using your car as much as possible after using the intake cleaner. I'm doing it today i'll update how it goes.
I got better results after doing it again 2 weeks later.
That's interesting. You visualized via borescope for the results or judged by response of the motor?
good to know!
I've used two cans in the past two weeks , one can each week . I definitely could feel my car running smoother and quicker acceleration . I sprayed both times through the disconnected hose from the brake booster . I started my car and then put a wooden rod from the edge of drivers seat to gas pedal , moving the seat forward until 2500 RPMs . I was continually spraying it and car didn't stall out , but kept running niormally . Now I will try Berryman's Valve cleaner .
Interesting. Looks like you read my mind. I plan to do just the same, 2 cans, 2 weeks apart before my next oil change. Definitely doing a video on it!
@@DIYAutoworksNG It seems that on TH-cam people have the best success with CRC .
@@DIYAutoworksNG With the berryman I will use the plastic tubing to inject directly into the throttle body , engine running of course .
@peterrudy9207 very correct. The other one that seems quite good is the Berryman. Let me know how it goes when you try it.
@@DIYAutoworksNG This past week I used the Berryman B-12 intake valve cleaner . I applied it into the throttle body as best suggestion . Be sure to press hard down on the press tab until it clicks , and fluid starts flowing . Then got back in car to keep gas pedal at 2000-2500 RPMs and it seemed to take at least 15 minutes before used up . I could not tell as I sat in drivers seat if it was still flowing , so got out and checked at various times . If they would put a dye in it , green or red to easily tell that it was still flowing and then stopped to see clear hose . I noticed smoke , bluish coming from tailpipe and strong chemical smell . When I went for a drive after waiting 30 minutes as said . At first traffic light , engine wanted to stall . So I put foot on brake pedal and other on gas pedal giving gas until light changed to green . Then there was so problem , acceleration and power seemed to be better with CRC Intake Valve Cleaner . Though I expect it was that the valves at that time had been dirtier . Though I will use Berrymans again it as I think it is carbon being burned off in exhaust . Since I was under the hood spraying CRC into the hose disconnected from the brake booster , I could not see the exhaust .
Excellent video. Thank you. Most cleaners seem to performed the same. I guess that sooner or later, if you keep a GDI car long enough, to clean the valves one would have to do it with the engine open.
It's seeming so. That's kind of a bummer, ain't it?
The reason the valves looked slightly cleaner after those several days is because the CRC cleaner actually states that it continues to clean over the next few days following the initial application of it. Every video I watch is so critical of the results of these products they expect it to remove intake valve carbon deposits and restore them to like new condition just because the picture on the can shows it like that but nothing except an actual walnut blasting service will remove carbon deposits from intake valves enough to make any real difference and the results of these store bought products cannot produce results to that of a walnut blasting service. It's expensive but walnut blasting is worth the price I get it done on my WRX every 20K but of course I'm an auto shop manager so I barely pay anything to do it myself at work lol. But I do use these chemical products in between walnut blasting every 20k miles or so at each oil change and I perform full service oil changes every 2K miles so at each service I run a can of it thru as a way to keep the intake valves and system clean and maintained to prevent further buildup. So a walnut blasting service every 20K with a can of CRC every oil change every 2K to keep it clean. Of course I'm very anal about overly frequent service but it barely costs me anything cuz I manage a service shop but it's a good plan to follow for anyone. But only a walnut blasting will truly remove deposits these cans of cleaners can keep the intake valves clean but they won't actually deep clean anything I mean think about how insanely hard carbon is and how stubborn it is to remove it requires strong but safe abrasive cleaning action like walnut shell media shooting at it under crazy high pressure at close range to get that crap off the valves no store bought cleaner is gona do anything like that lol
Good observations. Don't get me wrong this product clearly works, it's the claim that CRC has boldly written on it that people haven't been able to reproduce; "removes 46% buildup in 1 HR", plus as you say, that night and day image on the can. I still use it every oil change to at least keep that build up under control.
I was thinking the same thing in regard to the CRC (PEA in general) continues to clean over time. I know this product works wonders in my 2016 Kia GDI engine
Bro.. every 2k? That’s a bit over the top no?. Especially if you’re going to walnut blast every 20k. You may as well invest in a higher quality oil instead.
How much is the walnut blasting cost at your shop?
I've finally used this product, not going through the brake booster line but just directly into the throttle body.
Couple days later got a CEL code for an upstream oxygen sensor that this spray blast would have hit first. Wondering if I damaged the oxygen sensor, or its readings are off now due to the spray. I forgot to let it heat soak for a while after the service, and drove the car right after spraying it. On the freeway too.
What car and what's the O2 sensor code? Did you have any abnormal sounds from the engine during the process or drive?
Personally, I've never had an O2 sensor code after using a cleaner. But stuff happens. Could also be a coincidence.
@DIYAutoworksNG a gdi turbo engine. Ford Taurus sho. No abnormal sounds, but the spray really stunk when we put it in. Never ran weird either during or after the service
I add catalytic converter cleaner to a tank of premium before carbon cleaning to ensure the carbon gets hot enough to burn off easily if it makes it’s way through to the catalyst
Excellent video, sir. Very informative and to the point. Thank you
You're welcome. Thanks!
VERY well done video!
Appreciate that!
I think the best is walnut shell blasting
Absolutely! Just that some people either can't do it or have the service accessible via shops in their localities.
Excellent. Exactly what I wanted to know. Thank You.
Glad it was helpful!
sincere test and assessment.
Thanks mate. Means a lot.
Keep in mind that whatever it does clean, makes it’s way into your catalytic converter. Priced those lately?
Also did a video on that, with before and after shots of the catalytic converter. You can watch and let me know your thoughts... th-cam.com/video/Uy5YLEDhT_k/w-d-xo.html
I agree. After watching some other videos on TH-cam and yours, I appreciate your Honesty, it's clear that using GDI cleaner from a can is not a big improvement. I'd say, unless you are having actual issues with Carbon Build-up like hard starts, misfiring, poor acceleration, etc., then just leave it be. And if you need a cleaning then spend the money and time and remove the Intake Manifold and get inside there and scrub them clean the right way.
I got a Liqui Moly intake cleaner that I'm keen to test. Will see how that does.
Does the catalytic converter suffer any damage from the CRC?
Not that I've seen. I did a different video showing the cats before and after
@@DIYAutoworksNG Thank you for the reply and video!
You're welcome!
Amazing info. Which valve cleaner is recommended for Toyota cars. Also is there a way to use without the technically skills you used in this video? There are loads of product sold at gas stations and they simply empty the contents into the fuel thank 🤔
Thanks, mate.
It depends on your Toyota. Some newer models have dual injection (port injection plus GDI). If that's the case, the gas tank approach will work quite well.
Have seen many people try various products. BG makes some too. Nothing really seems to do much. The real question is do you want to pay for the shop time or money to use one of these cleaners AND walnut blasting, or just skip right to walnut blasting. Either way, you're paying for walnut blasting.
In summery...it doesn't clean well enough, it's a waste of time. The ONLY way is to manually clean and intake manifold MUST be removed along with a whole lot of other related parts to properly clean the back of valves AND the intake ports. It's a rather time consuming (and expensive) process. Walnut blasting is the standard for this procedure.
Mechanical cleaning is seeming to be the conclusion, which I may eventually get to. I have one more target chemical cleaning product before I go mechanical!
It might work for maintenance if you did it from new but yea you're right. Once its bad. Manual is it.
Dude, they did this for a reason.
You don't want to clog your CC, they make it not clean well enough for a reason
I just put CRC into my car with 157K miles and it was like a miracle. I get if I had it manually scraped, or walnut cleaned it would be better, but I have to say after waiting the hour and driving the 10 minutes, my car no longer has rough idle, or the ticky valve sound and my mileage has improved considerably. Not perfect, yeah you are right, but compared so some of the other crap they sell you for your car, at least this does something noticeable and it is a lot cheaper than having the mechanic spend a few hours futzing around my car. Besides I did take it to the mechanic complaining about poor mileage, and the mechanic just did all the things I did already (check plugs, make sure O2 sensors were in tolerance ...) and charged me $150. I did get an oil change out of it.
@markmccraley2559 I agree. Definitely much better than doing nothing and a lot of the snake oil stuff out there.
Have you tried Amsoil powerfoam?
Not yet. Hadn't even heard of it. I have some cleaners on order including a Liqui Moly brand. I take a look at the Amsoil one.
Amsoil’s power foam explicitly states not to use that product on GDI or Diesel engines unfortunately.
I agree with veganlogic4empathy, I also like how you present your videos. Thank you
Thanks for taking the time to comment!
if you do it from the first oil change it works better if you let it build up like yours only a manual cleaning will work
I suspect so too. I have 2 more cleaners I'm trying to lay my hands on, after that and nothing happens, manual cleaning it is!
Very nce test. I've seen similiar one on AliMECH channel and results were equally pathetic. I have 1.6 N14 engine [aka THP] and recently sprayed a can of Xado Anticarbon through a PCV hose, seems like done something, but I do it only preventively, my valves were cleaned mechanically 4000km ago. I can recommend Xado, it's really serious chemical agent.
Thanks for sharing. Yea, definitely doesn't clean as much as it claims. Just hearing of Xado for the first time. I'll look out for it. I will also be testing a couple more intake cleaners. I've seen a spray solution from liqui moly as well.
@@DIYAutoworksNG Xado is brand from Ukraine, so it's cheap and they produce effective stuff.
I'm from Poland, so practically next door, they've been selling their chemicals here for many years.
Can't wait for more of your tests :D I used Liqui Moly throttle body cleaner and it washed the carbon away with no problem, but it was outside the car, so much easier.
I've gotten the LM, on the hunt for Xado anticarbon... Thanks again for suggesting.
@@DIYAutoworksNG glad I could help a little :)
Does this carbon / particles find its way into cylinders and score cylinder walls or bash rings ???
Good question. I didn't assess this.
At a minimum it must wash the oil film off the cylinder and make the piston run on bare metal. Yikes
How many miles on the engine when you performed this procedure?
Around 70 - 80k miles
I been using crc since i bought my car its only 5 years old very oil change i do this also it does not work one time you have to keep using it like oil change cost alot of money in the long run will be half prize doing wal nut blasting,but if you started at 1 year old car brand new it will prevent it. and also i dont put it on vaccum hose i find better on throttle body.its a maintenance like oil change you have to keep using it every year you cant use it when your car is like 7 years old its going to be hard to remove it most are so thick.
Agree 100%. I got the car used, and have used it every single year since getting it. You're the 3rd or 4th person stating better results via spraying through the throttle body. I'll use that approach next time.
Just like the videos who specialize in walnut blasting & manual cleaning of intake manifolds say. These cans only make negligible improvements. And also show only benefits on the walls, not the intake valves.
The quest continues!
Great video
Glad you enjoyed it!
I am going to do this every 10k miles in addition to the catch can on my wifes new Kona. Prevention is the key
True talk!
I'm guessing its going to take a boat load of cans before you see a good result which in my opinion is to be expected.
I'm trying to see if there are some better alternatives. More tests on the way.
Gdi engine?
💯 GDI.
@DIYAutoworksNG Try BG intake cleaner. Also BG 44k platinum is an excellent total fuel system cleaner. Hope this helps.
Thanks. BG44k platinum ordered! Thanks for suggesting.
GDI stands for 'Gas Direct Injection' which means the valves don't get any gasoline sprayed on them as they would in the older PI (port injected) engines. The gas sprayed on the valves kept all that carbon from building up and that doesn't happen on these newer GDI engines.
Can you use this on diesel engine?@@404notfound.....
seems like every intake cleaner test has the same results regardless of the brand. Just wets the carbon down. I'd like to see what happens if two doses are used one right after another then a spirited drive.
I'm planning 2 doses 2 weeks apart.
CRC has its GDI Service Pack Kit that besides the Intake Valve Cleaner, also includes cleaners for the Throttle Body, MAF and a Fuel System Additive...
I think I'll try tracking down some of the "CRC Gasoline 1-Tank Power Renew" Fuel Additive to compliment my Intake Valve Cleaning during my upcoming Oil Change.
On that front how soon after Intake Valve Treatment(s) do you change the Oil? Trying to decide if I decide to try a "double dose" over 2 weeks if the Oil should get dumped at 3 weeks? Or if the cleaner will compromise the Oil and maybe change it out shortly (within a few days?) of the last treatment
Usually, I change a few days after the CRC treatment, but I've actually been wondering what to do with the 2x treatment. Might just change immediately after the 2nd CRC can with about 2 weeks in between treatments.
@@lgoamity I use redline FI cleaner. I put 2 bottles in 19 gallons before a road trip last month. I changed oil when I got back but only because the trip had some seriously hard driving at well over 10,000 foot. Pikes PeaK!! One off the bucket list.
@@datsuntoyy The Redline SI-1 (60103) Fuel System Cleaner? Tried that before (haven't pulled the Spark Plugs to check for an "After" comparison yet...) hopeful that it is worth the extra cost (compared to just using a Top Tier Detergent Fuel and maybe one of a variety of "cheap" but well known fuel additives).
Gotta try the ATS treatment and see how it does.
I have a couple other cleaners in the pipeline, and should get to ATS if I find it.
@@DIYAutoworksNG cool thanks, Scotty Kilmer has recently done a few videos on it, one of his friends started the company in New Mexico.
@@donniev8181 Kilmer's a hack!
@rusack7174 Oh no, another butthurt fanboy hating on a famous youtuber, imagine my shock. Your jealous obsession over a certain youtuber has no relevance on the success rate of ATS 505. It's not your fault that your dad left, run along now junior, the adults are having a conversation.
@@donniev8181 You're a funny guy, Donnie.
Works better sprayed directly through throttle body
I've heard this from others too and will use it next time.
Honesty I apologize for I can’t heard what you said? You looks like you talks to yourself! 🙏🏻
Waited too long.. These cleaners only work on soft carbon build ups. Hard caramelized carbon caking needs mechanical cleaning.This process only works on new engine at 15000-25000 mile intervals.
You probably have the point here.
I guess marketing won't let CRC state this limitation.
Dudes got 200k miles on his car expecting a spray to help right away, it will keep cleaning for weeks while it’s in there
Lols. Car had about 79k miles when I did this, but I get the figure of speech!
@@DIYAutoworksNG maybe try top tier fuel as well
@gtiguy1992able
GDI Engines are "Gas Direct Injected" doesn't matter what type of fuel or fuel additives you use, the gas never touches the intake valves.
@@vegeta420z running top
Tier fuel helps in GDI motors to reduce carbon build up
You have to spray directly into throttle body, not a vacuum line, that’s why it’s not cleaning much.
- Mechanic of 25+ years
Thanks for the suggestion. I saw one other video where it was sprayed via the throttle yet, results were similar to mine. I got some other products that I'd try. If they don't do better, I'll give this another chance as suggested. Thank you!
@@DIYAutoworksNG I recommend the seafoam top end spray. Spray at 2,000 rpm until empty, then turn off engine for 10 min and let sit, then crank and give her some firm revs and go for a drive and make sure to drive it hard so the carbon comes out.
Will this affect the throttle body or does the TB have any electrical internal bits?
@@Bass4LifeBroyou recommend this seafoam for a sonata 2018 1.6t?
They should be sued for false advertising. And forced to change the magical picture on their can. Imagine how much they've made from suckers like us all who believed it cleans it anywhere near as much as the picture shows. And that 46% claim too.
Haha, it’s called marketing. Most people will not check to see if it works and will get a placebo effect thinking it did. 8-)
I'll give it one more go through the throttle body route. Some others seem to get more impressive results... Maybe there's some other factor at play compression ratio or something.
Maybe the manufacturer forgot to add information that this product was created and designed specifically for vehicles with a mileage of under 500 miles...😂
Hahaha 😂😂🤣🤣
There is no Miracle in a can for this .
Lols. The search continues
This is y I won't want to own a direct fuel injection car again.
Valid concern. Dual injection is the best of both worlds.
secondo me non c'e' nulla di meglio del carbon x
I have been looking for carbon x for a long time. Not the easiest to get depending on what part of the world you leave in!
@@DIYAutoworksNG true, in Italy you can find it, but what costs is the vacuum cleaner, I was thinking of using a manual vacuum cleaner or the one at home by putting in some adapted tubes...
@ce9xy I wanted to get it one time while in the UK and the only seller on Amazon was in Italy. He didn't have so much good reviews so I left it. I already got a manual vacuum pump which I can use for it. Wasn't expensive. Got from Aliexpress under $20
@@DIYAutoworksNG secondo te riuscira' ad aspirare tutto? io non lo ho provato, ma penso che di meglio ci sia solo lo smontaggio e pulizia manuale dei singoli pezzi.
I think it should suck up everything. Also, even after sucking you will still crank the engine without the spark plugs installed, that will push out whatever is left
Looks like I’m never buying a GDI engine
Lol. I like how Toyota does dual injection instead of straight up GDI
@@DIYAutoworksNG or FORD does Port Injection on the gas HD Trucks
Why dont people use water/meth injection?
Yea, right. For me I'm just still afraid of pouring water in my engine😕
Snake oil
I won't call it snake oil. But it under delivered for the claims.
Nothing!
Just walnut blasting helps.
Walnut blasting definitely wins any day, just not that accessible
I think those carbon cleaners are shit.
Lol. It's better than no cleaning at all on a GDI engine.
CRC is a joke
After trying other intake valve cleaners specifically on GDI engines, I think CRC can't be easily dismissed. What I haven't tested is Berryman intake valve cleaner.
Looks like snake oil to me, no real difference IMO.
Having tested other products, it does do something but not a cure in a can
Damn instead of buying CRC intake valve cleaner, buy a car with direct + port injection instead.
🤣 Just that Toyota has always lost me on interior design!
@@DIYAutoworksNG Damn. And I drive a Toyota with no port injection.
@liquidh5226 lol
Relatively few cars have that, it would limit what you drive.