Best intake valve cleaner MADE IN GERMANY!!!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ก.ย. 2024
- Claims to clean valves in 30 seconds. Best intake valve cleaner made in GERMANY!!! mannol? we find out if this is the best fuel system cleaner or if there is a much better fuel additive. can we solve or fix a bad idle find out on this channel we fix engine vibrations or surging engine. with fuel cleaners you can clean intake valves on a gdi or direct injection engine like seafoam or marvel mystery oil.
Liqui moly Germany's best engine oil watch the proof!! th-cam.com/video/8wPOOe_pHJQ/w-d-xo.html
I tried gas
Where does the carbon go when it gests loose
@@juansalinas2027 it gets to hang out in your catalytic converter.
How many miles does ypur car have in that video
Hho gas would work better, easy build but in throttle body sensor cars ,you will have to get computer hardware to adjust o2 to gas ratios since hho seems to make readings off at the o2 sensors
Those valves are clogged up way past the "miracle spray cleaners" stage
Only a decent head job will fix ☝️ one that bad, I know, I've ✅ done a few like it in my time. It's the price you 💰 pay to have a sweet running engine.
Yea tbh anything strong enough to remove it might cause damage to other parts of the engine (like seals). It's best to leave it unless it actually becomes an issue.
I have removed light carbon buildup from a throttlebody using electrical contact cleaner. But it also needs scrubbing, which you can't really do inside the engine. Plus you don't want chunks of carbon falling in to the engine itself.
@@BlatentlyFakeName Actually you can sandblast the valves just by taking the intake manifold off.... using crushed walnut as the media not actual sand grain. It’s called walnut blasting technically. All you have to do is make sure the valves are closed for the given cylinder and blast away. It’s what the main shops do for carbon cleaning on intake valves. It really works fantastically well. Look up vids of it.
@@jumpr2134 I've done it manually also. It gets rid of those cold start misfires caused by poor airflow.
@@johndoogan3712 not true, needs walnut blasting done.
Sod that manifold off Mr Muscle oven cleaner turn engine by hand to close each port one by one . Rinse with brake cleaner and blow out with air line 👍
This works very well👍. I was hesitant to use mr muscle oven cleaner as some reviews said it will damage the engine, but took the risk and had it done 2 yrs ago to decarb the piston heads (totally cleaned); after cleaning I changed the engine oil. Resulted no damage or gasket leak to the engine. Car rans over 25k miles since then.
Spray directly in to the intake manifold through a vacuum line ( like brake booster line) then clear the fault code after. Your wasting your money and time the way you’re currently doing it.
It doesnt make a difference i have did this in previous seafoam videos
@@NATESINTERACTIVEAUTO yes it does
@@NATESINTERACTIVEAUTO it make a difference you dont know what you are doing listen to luke and spray it in a vacuum line and dont pretend to be good and that you know everything because you dont !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
yea you need to spray it in a hot engine, turn off and spray and let it soak, something this bad will need several applications. You want something foamy like expanding foam, a light spray wont cut it. you need to basically drench it. I used to clean my rotary spark plugs this way running premixed oil so plugs gunk up a lot.
@@NATESINTERACTIVEAUTO Yeah, it won’t make a difference. Anything besides a light coating of surface carbon won’t be touched by spray cans. Walnut shell blasting is the easiest method for cleaning the intake valves.
With port injection, the fuel from the injectors helps keep the back of the valves clean, not true with GDI. Use a high temperature of vaporization oil. This prevents excess oil vapors going through the EGR into the intake. Redline makes one. LiquiMoly does too I believe.
It’s recycled fuel vapors as well. The oil helps reduce but not prevent this issue.
What is this little air filter? 😀 And how butterfly is closed, when rpm is higher than iddle?
I can't use the cleaner anymore because now I have an ecoboost engine that's gdi with a turbo but I do have a scope and would love to see the back of the valves on my engine with 82,000 kms with no catch can. I did put one on today. What I'm getting at is you show us the valves with the scope but you never show us how you prepare the engine so we can use a scope on our engines. Seeing your valves is interesting but to see the valves on our own engines to see their condition is a thousand times more interesting because we want to know what's going on in the engine we own to know if we should take any action.
My family came from Germany, what does that tell you
One thing is for sure... that's one clean ass throttle plate 😆😆
ahahhahahah
Yeah what can we try next
Yes oil test?
That side of the throttle plate / valve body is always clean. It's the other side that's getting carbonized, and the parts beyond that: the EGR valve and the intake manifold. But we didn't see pictures of any of those.
No egr valve this car uses variable valve timing for similar purposes
You didn't even follow the whole instructions, that tube was there for a purpose.
This was interesting due to the fact that it clearly didn't do squat in my opinion. Thanks for posting!
I agree, no difference what so ever.
Maybe if the poster followed the directions and didn't lose 3/4 due to back pressure, the "test" might have yielded more conclusive results.
@@kerryeff407 the throttle valve wasn't even open, was the engine up to temp?? plus he sprayed b4 the sensor...
Pull the intake manifold, hook up a remote starter and seat 2 valves at a time, soak in a non evaporative solvent for 30-45 mins, wrap a flathead with a rag and lightly scrape. Once clean, wipe up as much as you can with a rag and blow out the rest with an air gun
Thought those valves would be shinny like chrome.
Its a can of... Fail
I don't see any difference at all. You videos are an anti-commercial for these products.
5:16 from my life I will never get back):
Just skip to the end on these vids
WayneB27 - are you suggesting that someone put a gun to your head and forced you to watch it at all, or hid your mouse so you couldn't stop it?
@@acommenter5184 Yes.
@@acommenter5184 I was waiting in vain hoping it would improve actually.(:
@@acommenter5184 do you need a tissue?
What would happen if you followed the directions and used the straw, go through the maf and sprayed for the full 30 seconds?
No maf
thats what i dud
Good stuff if there is only minor buildup. I recommend this service every 10k miles to prevent buildup. This one is definitely too far gone for chemicals.
Mannol 9873 intake cleaners id safe to use with teflon safe. BMW use teflon washers in the VANOS
This application was not done correctly: maintain air filter in-situ (remove MAF sensor to protect it) 30 seconds single burst @ 2500rpm + 1 hour hot soak + 10 mins+ fast drive.
Like im thinkin the hose was to get the product past the throttle plate
Yea I noticed he didn't do a 30 second spray like the instructions said to lol
That carbon buildup is hard to take off with cleaner and a wire brush, a spray cleaner ain't gonna do a damn thing.
We have had great results before and recently
For me in my 2015 wrx with almost 59k recently got it walnut blasted. Was the best results. I have an AOS and now egr deleted. Hopefully the combo will reduce carbon buildup. I run 93 octane.
@@NATESINTERACTIVEAUTO which produced did you use with beyter resists
Shamway. It's the full throttle blow by that gets into the intake tract.
heya gues 2016 bonestock chevy colorado with the 3.6. now seems to need 89 or 91 octane or it rattles at light load 2000-3500 ish rpm. di engine no catch can....yea yea. anywho is it possible the valves are coked up like these? 73k miles.
After this job is done that's going to be the cleanest snorkel I've ever seen..lol
Yeah what a dummy lol
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤭
Why not spray directly onto the valve's? ???????? Engine off. As with the bore scope. Let it sit 10 minutes. Then check
Danger of hydrolock.
@@theamerican7080 NO!! Chance at all!
You dont run your engine and you have to take off the manifold! You do the cleaning without your engine running,clean out all the residue,air spout,put it back together.Nothing there to create HYDROLOK!!!
Obviously,a little knowledge is a dangerous thing!
Nothing works and that won't work either. Yesterday I was rebuilding a Kia engine and I had the head off, filled the intake ports full of CRC and let them sit over night, at best it got 20% cleaner when I blew it out with air. I tried sticking a bottle brush in there and loosening it up and that helped. Since I was installing new valve seals anyway I just pulled the valves out and cleaned them as NOTHING will get them clean save for blasting with the intake off. Now, if you regularly used a cleaner like this say every other oil change that might keep them from getting real bad.
@@djyul You are a moron. You risk great damage by filling up a cylinder with the cleaner seeping past an unseated valve, only a 10% volume of liquid in the cylinder would result in a bent connecting rod at the very least. Crank the motor with an uncompressable liquid and you just did tremendous damage. If you bother to take off the intake manifold follow procedure and use a media blaster to get the coke off and clean the residu before moving to the next intake valve set. Obviously, your little knowledge IS a dangerous thing.
I agree, it is only really beneficial as a prophylactic. Use it before choking and keep it clean.
since they made it with nylon manifold, i say open a thread hole infront of every intake valve where you can seal it back with screw and gasket maker,after you brush and vacuum it.
it would probably be less work to just remove the entire intake manifold and replace the gaskets while your at it...
Привет!!! Я тоже автомеханик, но я очищаю этим баллончиком Маннол не так!!!! Сначала надо на холостом ходу через трубочку интенсивно резко подать очиститель Маннол на дроссель и мотор захлебнется от очистителя но зато смочится весь впускной коллектор и клапана и каналы воздушные и надо дать постоять мотору откиснуть там много углеродистых отложений они должны размякнуть и делать это надо на теплом моторе +40+50 градусов не на полностью горячем +90 иначе очиститель быстро испаряется, потом как откиснет 2-3 минуты заводим прогазовываем и снова заливаем в дроссель основательно чтобы мотор заглох и так 2-3 раза раскисаем впуск и клапана а потом уже заводим обороты 2500 и брызгаем не жалем очиститель смывает раскишие углеродистые отложения я использую весь баллон на 1 очистку впуска на моторах с прямым впрыском GDI и турбо Ваг моторы с прямым впрыском )))) очень запущенный мотор отложения на видео очень большие видно ни разу не мыли впуск поэтому без замачивания такие большие отложения и не отмылись
If that's hardened carbon forget it! You'll never get it off and it'll damaged your engine if you do.
Exactly my thoughts. Piston to head clearence issue
Try soda blasting (bicarbonate of soda in a sandblaster) it works great for taking carbon off without damaging the underlying material, if you can keep it dry you can vacuum the residue out, or it will dissolve in water so it can be washed off.
Jajaja wtf!!! 5minuts and 19 second waisted in my life 🤣🤣🤣😂🤣
The reason the intake runners and valves are this nasty in the first place is sludge and oil coming in through the PCV combined with sooty exhaust gas from the EGR. Eliminate that once they're clean and you'll rarely have to worry about that. With smog testing going bye bye in America (yay!) you can easily do an EGR delete which will in most cases help the engine actually run better overall, and there are several different PCV catch cans on the market that are inexpensive and easy to mount, or you can easily build your own. I built my own about 15 years ago and it has worked wonders. The only caveat is that you have to periodically empty them as they collect oil, and if you have more blowby than normal (my engine has 300K miles on it so that's the case with me) you have to be on top of monitoring it. Mine has a clear bowl that I marked with for a maximum level, so I can easily look and see when it has to be emptied.
Totally agree. I don't think the small amount of "fumes" released into the air is much to be concerned amount compared to the exhaust and burning fuel. Best thing you can do for your car in my opinion. The PCV valve is an EPS mandated product,not something that was designed to make your car run better, or longer. ctually, just the opposite, which manyfacturers are certainly not going to complain about. In fact, we have the tech to build motors that can easily o 500K miles or more, but don't because then nobody would need a new car every year. lol. But that's okay. Understand, many jobs in the economy are there and created so people actually work to get a check instead of sit at home and get one. Or maybe not. An economy is a man made concept.
It made no difference! Still got extremely dirty intake valves.
I think we all knew that a carbon cleaner spray passing by a caked up valve stem at 200 mph was not going to remove the carbon. You're way past that stage. But thanks for the confirmation. And let us know what kind of bore camera you used. The clarity is great.
30 seconds? Impossible. snake oil for sure
After all those chemicals, i have not seen any difference.
There was a large reduction of carbon especially in the crc vs seafoam
You do this always on the same car. I don't believe you
IMO those valves needed to be cleaned by hand. Maybe used at regular intervals to keep the buildup from starting this stuff may just as well would’ve worked. Using it on a coked up engine like that is like putting a bandaid on a sucking bullet wound.
It looks like a septic pit before and after. Hope you got it sorted.
I noticed that you have been using the same car for all the chemicals. Proof that the shit don' t work.
Terrible result
It's better to perform Walnut blasting every 60k km / 35k miles because with these cleaners, the built up carbon that were dislodged will be running through your cylinders and exhaust and could cause serious damage to your cylinders and/or cat converters.
I had this on a BMW 3.0 with 80k, only fix was removed inlet manifold and blasts the ports 1 at a time with walnut shells. Not cheap but like new after.
Do you still eat walnuts?
3 years later so I'm sure price has increased but..what was the cost of the walnut blasting?
Mannol is not made in Germany. Headquarters and factory are in Klaipeda, Lithuania. They have an importer in Germany and they sell very well in Germany.
Very interesting video.
Since you were able to get the camera right to the valves, I wonder if you'd have done the same with the long hose and sprayed it directly onto the carbon and let it soak.
Just a thought.
cant do that on a mounted top block, it would flood the chambers, it needs to burn away somehow
this stuff is made in eastern europe, not germany. only the company who distributes it is in germany
Never buy a car with a GDI engine. Should be outlawed.
Gdi is awsome tech running a good fully synthetic oil and change it on time can avoid this problem all toghter
Combining gdi with mpi should allow the best of both worlds tho
@@Arsya_AR94 mpi?
@@bitTorrenter multi port injection, the common fuel injection method dude.
just use premium fuel and you will reduce the carbon deposit, only reduce because it is inevitable to get gunk on gdi
Spray it into a vacuum line, to get directly into the intake and not be restricted by the throttle plate.
Pretty sure it woulda worked better if you would have used the "straw" that you didnt need to get passed the throttle body.
Like the vids but could you do a before and after side by side visual inspection
Plus agree with the comment below ever think about removing intake and letting the cleaner sit over night to remove Carbon build up
Yes i could allow over night and side by side will cut out details and much harder to see but i will try and do this on a upcoming videos dont let me forget alot of requests
Thanks for sharing
Direct injection is a weird beast. Humble Mechanic and Deutsche Auto Parts have done some great videos on different carbon cleaning products and solutions that actually work beyond preventative measures (albeit both are focused on VW TSI/TFSI platforms)
Can you show us some “non-observable valves?” 🙄
Wow super great great massage great ty for the price and the great tvttytttttttyyy
Yeah probably exhaust side fuck wit
No sir, I think that was a waste time and money.
You should have done it after the throttle plate and taken it for a hard run after doing this
Possibly spray the valves directly and let it set awhile then start and spray.
No way it can do anything without a heat soak, then running it for a good amount. I used CRC, let soak for an hour. Then drove around 30 minutes. Then I took a 600 mile trip.
My car is running like new. I'm not going to disassemble jonny 5, but the power increase and smooth acceleration speaks for itself. Use CRC, and make sure to follow the instructions. If you can do like I did, and take a long trip beforehand, you're going to be happy.
It did not do anything , you can remove those carbons using a Metal Brush
or pressurized blasting them with walnuts method .
There was a reduction but this car has bad build up
@@NATESINTERACTIVEAUTO And even with an oil catch can.
Is that OCC on the left? It doesn't work?
With this much carbon on the valves I would be doing this very gradually over time, No need to do it all at once. Cat converters are not cheap. The smoke comes from the burning of the product, not carbon. As I have seen CRC sprayed into the 02 sensor hole, that created that exact same smoke as seen in valve cleaning....thus it isn't the carbon that is smoking.
Best visual example of reversion ever!!!!!
The real secret (and I'm not a Toyota guy) is to buy a Toyota GDI engine. They have port injection when the engine fires up then it switches to direct injection when the engine goes into closed loop.
Toyota and Lexus figured a solution
Older toyota engines only have the direct injection. But some of them don't have EGR which is a good thing. EGR is the main source of input port and valve soiling.
I'd pull the intake manifold and spray the valves directly and let it sit for 30 minutes, maybe get an old toothbrush and a shop vac to pull the gunk off afterwards
Theres no such thing as magic in a can
Walnut shell blasting is #1 for taking care of this. Check it out!!
wow thats some crazy deposit
What about the other 4 intake valves? Was that even the same car?
Mannol intake can work, I've tested it, but it melts plastic so should not be used with plastic rocker covers or possibly intake air tubes. Important to follow the instructions unambiguously ;) to avoid plastic parts exposure.
GDI direct injection does not spray at the valve stem, it sprays direct onto the piston ☺
Tops of his pistons are probably a bit cleaner tho!
Your spraying into the mass air sensor take it off first lol
Car has a map sensor not a MAF sensor. The map sensor is not in line with that spray pattern.
Thanks for sharing
Well if you can get the borescope camera to the valve you should be able to get a straw with the cleaner to the valve I would’ve soaked each valve ( closed valve ) .... then ran the engine ...
Agreed, and you need to get past the throttle plate with that stuff to do any good.
Failed!
Looks like my German Shepherd ear canal
Oh no lol what can we try next?
Trung Le
Or my father in laws nasal passages....funky mũi hếch...
Aren't you afraid that a loose bit of carbon could damage\scratch your piston, exhaust value or cat?
these types of foams impossible to loose anything from that deposit.... :) just transform the (thinnest) top layer into a fluid....thats why its not that effective.
The carbon will build up until it breaks free regardless and i have did this for years with no problems and amazing success after trying every cleaner made lol. Follow manufacturer's instructions.
Nah carbon chunk break loose all the time in running engines blows right out the exhaust valve.
Thanks for sharing
That oil catch can didn't seem to prevent carbon deposits on the valves. I'll bet this is a VW.
Remove the intake, tape together 30 or so plastic zip ties, turn engine to close valves, spray cheap carb cleaner in while jamming zip ties around to get carbon off.... If you don't have access to a wallnut blaster.
You didn't apply correctly if it said to spray after the MAF sensor.
EgR recirculation ontop of valve bad design
The best way to clean your valves is to pour drops of water down the engine while its hot ..At the closest part of the intake manifold,,The sudden shock of the water on the hot exhaust valves will simply crack off the carbon build up.
There is no chemical spray in the market that cleans those valve.
Crc thank me
Later
Mannol is a skam oil, its bottled in Lituania!!!!!
my first car was a 1960 Chevrolet belair and I had a broomstick like that for my cruise control I just measured how far it was to 70 miles an hour but some Velcro on each end of it it works really great
LMAO!!!
BG44k will require use over a few times as dirty as this engine is, use the 9210 BG pressure device and use a mix of induction cleaner, plenum and 44k
Make no difference Lol,,!
Mannol is made in Lithuania!
Spray a 50 50 mix of atf and acetone in there or mix a little kerosene with it and spray it in on the dirty valves.. Bet it will break down the carbon.. Use a valve stem and put it in the spray bottle if u want...it will work better than what you are buying
What about stp and thanks for the idea
What's the procedure though..? Spray through the throttle body? While running? Rpm, etc? And how much to spray?
Same as crc 2500 rpm throttle body or intake vacuum
Mannol is mostly acetone so if he sprays it onto the valves it should work.
That throttle blade is nice and clean!! The intake valves not so much If you have just a little bit more buildup, AIR won’t get through there at all. It’s good to Get that carbon off there and get it into the cylinder where it can kick up on top of the piston go down to your catalytic converters they love Carbon!! The catalytic converter Has plenty of room to pass those chunks of carbon. I think the holes 1/4 In size, so those carbon chunks will go right out the back of the car… Gotta love direct port fuel injection Look at all the miles I’m getting per gallon. With all that money that I saved, I can pay to tear the engine apart to clean all that carbon out. And we are back at zero. It’s a shame They’re trying to Make cars more fuel, efficient, and get every MPG you can running exhaust back through the motor because that way the car will not put out so much pollution. Meanwhile, when I’m flying back from vacation and the pilot comes on the loudspeaker and says we’re going to arrive early because we push the throttle forward and burned an extra 400 gallons of fuel, but we need to redirect that little proof of oil smoke and exhaust back into the motor That’s saving the environment definitely.
As far as I know the best way is to remove the intake and the exhaust manifold, rotate the engine till all the valves from a piston are closed then spray inside. Not the way you do it. I have seen it like I'm say it and it work excellent
buy a Toyota direct + indirect injected engine and you wil never have to use this shit !!!
New Piston rings and new bearings... Also a cylinder head refresh at the engineering shop will be as good as new. That's the text book way.
Direct injection with no port washing is suuuuuuuch a terrible idea. Why do they do this?
I used bg and wurth products in my shop. Never disappointed. Bg 44k was great stuff. For a car that barely failed a smog test we put it in a tank, drive about 20 miles and the car would pass with ease. Never failed.
How does that work on GDI?
@@campagnollo no idea. I would check with them or look at the warnings. There are god products for diesels that may work better. Look up their products. I worked on mercedes and due to their system we had to use a differant addative. But make sure it's a professional product.
Just gonna need to add ports in the beginning of each runner so you can spray directly to the valve. Not this cleaner Fuel. Take the intake off put in your own fuel injector port run a very small injector might as well add a Nitrous solenoid while you’re in there And maybe a bottle of NOS or as Paul Walker would say NAZ Then you’ll get blue flames out of your exhaust. Don’t forget to under glow lights.
Do a 1999 tahoe
Man, if you have a DI engine, you pretty much have to use fuel system cleaner in every tank...and use an oil catch can. This is terrible
Fuel system cleaner is not gonna help. The fuel never touched the back side of the valves.. that's the problem with GDI.
Ya what's fuel additive gonna do if its injectedpast the valves?
@@infotechsailor
Yep. One nice thing on the new Toyotas.. they run dual injection. Port under low load, and DI under high load.
Gives best of both.. and keeps valves clean.
Nick Hahn what's the oil catch can for?
@@eeyyaakk6801
It prevents excessive oil vapor from getting back into the engine and building up on the back on the intake valves..
in regular Port fuel-injected vehicles the fuel ends up being sprayed on the back of the intake valves keeping them clean, but on a direct injection engine that is not the case and so stuff just continually builds up on the back of the intake valves, it hardens up and can eventually cause significant issues
you are wasting the product, find a close PCV VACUM line and spray with the straw while the engine is running at operating temperature, and spray in 2-second intervals pulling and pushing the white hose to make sure you spray all valves evenly till the can is empty, might need to use 2-3 cans, for best results, soak all valves with a valve cleaner for at least 30 minutes, after that you will have a brand new intake and system, but the catalytic converter is gonna suffer after that
When your engine is that dirty you're better off removing the entire head. Or just buy another car.
Cheapest way to clean this without having it Walnut blasted by mechanic would be to remove the intake manifold and put some zip ties on a drill and put it in there and let the zip ties smack around along with some valve cleaner chemical sitting on top of the valve for a few hours and you can pretty much almost get it like looking brand new The zip tie smacking around from the drill will break off almost everything in there into crumbs and pieces that you can then suck out with a vacuum or whatever is easiest for you just make sure that when you do it the valve that you're working on is obviously completely closed and sealed.
Realistically, every time you go to do a timing chain or belt you may as well take the head off and clean it properly. I can tell you from experience that cleaning carbon off valves... a lot of the chemicals have a hard time doing anything noticeable. I've had to literally have intake manifolds or heads in my hot tank solution at 200 degrees for an hour to over 7 dependent on how dirty they were and how much I had in the tank itself.
Why the hell would I pull the head on a timing belt or chain job just to clean intake valves. That's making two jobs out of one. I could see if the head had to come off, otherwise I wouldn't touch it. Just pull the intake manifold, close the valves, and get to cleaning.
All that carbon ur gonna need a walnut blast for sure dude
Direct inject is yet another good argument for electric cars...
Bold claim product that does very Mediocre result is hardly worth wasting money on. Walnut blast is the best way to go if you want real great result.
That's some shiny carbon.
If EV's are being charged by generators (without a catalytic converter) then I'd say removing the PVCV valve and replacing with an oil catch can should be fine as well. And the best idea of all as it eliminates carbon buildup on the intake and valves the PCV system creates. How is burning and blowing that carbon out with toxic chemicals any better 4 environment?
Just as an idea, try using the spray with the straw, and tape it to the PCV fitting on the intake, making a good air tight seal. Then try giving it several good sprays. The throttle might have been too far closed to allow enough of the cleaner in the engine.
Completely agree!
These are way past using chemicals lol!! They need to be walnut blasted! I do them all the time. People don’t know this is a problem until they have misfires, Generally a cold start misfire from the valve hanging open and also high rpm misfires and power loss from the restriction. The way to avoid this is going to a shop that has an air powered fuel cleaner that sprays a mist for 20-30 mins and do this once a year as long as they are pretty clean already. The spray cans do not work as good, the mist really breaks down the carbon over that 20-30 minutes. Putting additives in the tank does nothing because the fuel does not come into contact with the intake valves on direct injection engines which is the problem anyway. Even if a chemical would work you don’t want all that crap going in your catalytic converters.
Now look what u made me do, i ordered 3 of them
🤣😂🤦♂️
He made punch of test with deferent product at same car and he show us befor and after how is that?!!
Id use plain water,maybe with a bit of detergent in it.
No way I'd ever put water in a combustion chamber. Hydro lock
Thin mist could evaporate, but don't just pour a gallon of water there. I think the most maximum amount of water the engine could take should be less than the maximum cc of the combustion chamber, though it would stall the engine but i think it shouldn't kill the engine.
yea the steam effect.... but make sure the engine is fully hot.
@@darinr9424 Seems like it would evaporate before it could do anything
Acetone
Best carbon cleaner I ever used isnt made for automotive its klean strip AFTER WASH! Found at any home depot, took apart an engine poured that on the pistons and heads and I literally took a rag and wiped off the carbon. Someone please test this stuff im dead serious!!