ECU Replacement
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ต.ค. 2024
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In this video, we show you how to replace the ECU (Engine Control Unit) on your 1st Gen Tacoma or 3rd Gen 4runner.
*HELPFUL TOOLS*
If you're looking for other tools not used in this video, check out Timmy's Master Tool List.
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*1/4" and 3/8" Flex Head Ratchet Set - (used both these ratchets for this job. These ratchets are super functional and will make your wrenching life easier) amzn.to/2ql8nNA
*1/4” Drive Regular Extension Set
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*3/8” Drive Regular Extension Set
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*1/4” Drive 6 Point Standard Metric Socket Set
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*3/8" Drive 6 Point Metric Standard Socket Set
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*JIS Screwdriver - (Japanese vehicles use Japanese Industrial Standard screws. A JIS screwdriver will fit the screw heads better and thus less chance of stripping one)
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*20 Piece Screwdriver Set - (used a flat blade screwdriver. This is a nice set if you are in the market for a complete set of screwdrivers) amzn.to/34aLrQ1
*Milwaukee Mi12 Cordless Ratchet - (this ratchet is great for saving you time removing and installing fasteners) amzn.to/2utRZsE
*Milwaukee M12 Batteries (2 Pack)
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*Milwaukee M12 High Capacity Battery
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*Milwaukee M12 Battery Charger
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I hate he is having problems but us folks who love your videos are benefiting.
Well, we have eliminated a lot of things. What I haven't mentioned in the videos is Greg has a noticeable engine knock when it's under load. When the engine is running and the transmission is in park or neutral, the engine isn't knocking. As soon as he puts it in gear, drive or reverse, the engine has a knock in the lower end. We're going to check the timing and see if it's off but there just might be something majorly wrong with the engine and it's just a matter of time before it fails.
@@TimmyTheToolman Hey Timmy I could really use your help with my '01 4runner. I think I need to replace my ECU. I have gremlins that appeared after 1st trip thru a car wash since I bought it in March. That was April. I can't figure it out since. My windshield seal seams ok. My AC condenser drain hose has been removed and cleaned out, had no clog. But what happens is my door locks and turn signals just start going off while driving now even on dry days no rain no car wash. Do you think it's the ECU? Thanks man you are THE most informative! I'm a subscriber since I got my 4runner!
@@hsing4903 Hard to say what it is but the fact it started happening right after the car wash does lead you to believe water got in where it shouldn't have. I wish I could point you in the right direction but diagnosing electrical issues is not my strong suit. You might want to post this question on the T4R.org forum in the 3rd Gen section and see what people say. There's a guy with a screen name, "The Durk" that's really good with electrical that usually chimes in when an electrical question is posted. I don't think you're issue is the ECU because that's pretty protected under the dash but I guess there is a chance it could be the culprit. Good luck and let me know what you find out.
Tt
@@TimmyTheToolman Check the wires closely, a mouse did some chewing on the wires running to my #1 cyl coil pack. he just chewed enough to where they grounded out together. Lil bastid
I just pulled my ecu out of my 2000 toyota tundra. I didn't know if I wanted to try it myself but after watching this I gave it a try and it could not have been simpler. Hopefully when I get the replacement it will go back in just as easy. Thanks so much for your help!
You're welcome Steve. Hope the ECU swap fixes whatever issue you're having with your truck.
Same. I'm about to replace mine in my 2006 Tundra.
Did you get a replacement ECU used from a donor vehicle? Did you need to get the replacement ECU programmed?
I had a spark plug blow out a few months ago...it was held in mostly by the coil pack. I put a helicoil in and it was a successful helicoil. But, the engine was still feeling like it was intermittently misfiring randomly. Checked the plugs, wires and timing. While I was checking the timing, I just happened to touch the plug wires right where the timing cover says 3400. The problem ended up being the wires were pinched the slightest bit. I replaced with oem words and brand new wire clip separator things from Toyota. Problem was instantly fixed and hasn't happened for over 10,000 miles so far. Check every inch of those wires, I bet that's the problem. Something like wind from the fan can just move those wires the slightest bit, and cause a random misfire. Good luck, keep the vids coming buddy. We all appreciate you more than you know.
Ok, thanks for sharing this. I'll take a good look at his wires when he comes over next.
I just replaced the ECM on my 2005 Tundra. Your video is 100% spot on. Great video and well done. Project worked out perfect
That's great to hear. I'm glad it worked out for you. Thanks for taking the time to comment. We appreciate it!
Good News for you!!
Question... why did you have to replace it? what issue were you having? I'm having a shift solenoid problem. the transmission and the solenoid checked out so now the dealer is telling me that the ECT ECU is next. Any Online sources for for an ECU?
Thanks
Great job explaining how to remove/replace the ECU. I just sent mine for repair, a 1997 Toyota 4 Runner that cranks but wouldnt start. The mechanic said it was an ECU issue. This old timer thanks you! Be well Tim.
You're welcome. Hope they can repair your ECU and get you back rolling down the road again in your rig.
hey im interested to see if the repair to the ECU worked. how did it go when you got it all installed?
Did the ECU solve the crank no start? Having a similar issue now on my T100.
No there was nothing wrong with the ECU. It was something in the gas tank that went bad. The meineke shop that said it was the ECU and they couldn't fix was wrong
Check compression and timing next before throwing more parts at it. Love the videos!
We checked the compression and it was good. Next step is doing a leak down test and checking the timing.
@@TimmyTheToolmanI know this is years old, but I was having the same issues you were describing at the beginning of the video with my 97 4Runner! It ended up being a few vacuum leaks, fuel filter and clogged injectors. Love you videos man, thanks for the info!
I kept getting a misfire code on my 2001 Toyota Tundra and found out that one of my spark plugs on cylinder 5 was not gapped appropriately. It was almost completely closed. I removed it and gapped it to the appropriate gap specs and it cleared the code👍🏽
Hey awesome stuff! Thanks for sharing your fix. We hope your comment will help someone in the future. We appreciate you taking the time to come back to our video!
Tim, this video is so de ja vu for me. I just spent 8(!) months trying to solve the very same P0305 code! And I found this: Multiple vacuum flaws, only 90 psi in cylinder 4(!) [versus 145 in cylinder 5]. I have arrived at this thought: The programming in the ECU has a BUG! This will never go away, except with a new model, imho. I still get a P0305 on engine start, hot or cold. fugetaboutit! My rig is a 2000 gen 1 Tundra, 3.4l base model. I'm getting a rebuilt 3.4l from Yota! in June, btw.
Another thought: a speeding teenager t-boned my right front in 2010, maybe that weakened the internals of the ecu. But I'm setting my mind on the bug answer. Keep Healthy!!
Good luck figuring it out. Greg's misfire problem ended up being gross play in the crankshaft causing an audible knock. We think the knock sensors were originating the misfire CEL. He ended up selling his Tacoma because he didn't want to spend the money to replace the engine. He didn't use the truck that much so he decided to get rid of it.
Mine has the same problem and I am about to replace the ECU too
I’m driving no problem no issues and once is warm if I turn it off and start again I have a misfire , if I don’t then I can drive it perfect no issues
Hope it fixes your misfire problem.
maan Timmy a savage,.. even on his shortest vid ultra thorough
Glad you're a fan of our detailed style. Being thorough means an absolute beginner can be successful using our videos and that's what we're after. We want EVERYONE to be successful using our videos as a tutorial and not just the experienced DIYer or paid mechanic. Thanks for the comment and Happy Wrenching!
About 5 years ago, my 1996 tacoma was having similar issues, not responding well when pressing down on the pedal, I did all of the things this guy mentioned (spark plugs,, ignition coil, O2 sensors, cat converter...)and was taking the fuel rail off and about to test the injectors when someone said to try replacing the computer. I bought one, put it in and the truck drove great for another 5 years! Now, I replaced the alternator and battery, and have been going down the line with the exact same issues again. I had completely forgotten that I did all of that 5 years ago! Took a month for the ECU to come in the mail. I'm about to install it! Hope this does it again! I'll have to update this post if it works!
Hope the replacement ECU fixes your issue. Good luck!
@@TimmyTheToolman it did not....I guess I'll start thinking about this being a fuel pump issue...bummer
@@sydneykv Yeah bummer. Does your rig start and idle or does it immediately die.
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks for asking. It starts fine, used to idle okay then eventually stall out, now after many previous ECM reset attempts, it starts fine, idles for less time then starts struggling,shakes a lot, and stalls. Does not respond normally when I put the pedal down, it just sputters and backfires and stalls...
@@sydneykv Maybe it's an issue with the throttle position sensor.
Iam happy,to learn how to Replace ECU.good video ....good job Luis....
Glad you like the video Luis. Thanks for taking the time to comment.
Hey Tim, just keep eliminating the possibilities. If you have access to TIS techstream look at the misfire counters while driving around to verify that only #1 is misfiring and the exact conditions that are causing a misfire count increase. Other cylyinders may be misfiring but not enough to throw a code for that cylinder. Then move to the Leakdown test to see if/where it's leaking, then check the timing belt and the timing pulleys. I have seen it before on a 5vz that the crank timing pulley woodruff key slot wallors out allowing it to rotate slightly relative to the crank causing the engine to have a misfire under load because of a small timing error. If those tests and checks don't bring the issue to light then it's a difficult to find electrical issue in the harness or the grounds. May the Toyota gods be with you...
Thanks Jacob. I do have Techstream and was looking at it while we were driving. I was watching the misfire counts but didn't come across and Ah-Hah moments that let me know where the problem lies. Maybe I just don't know what to look for. The driving conditions were just mellow city and freeway driving.
I have a leak down tester and a timing light so we'll see what those show us.
Is requires any programming of new ECU..
No, it doesn't provided the replacement is from the same year and model.
I know you are probably running down the list on DI-57 in the FSM, but I don't recall you checking the vacuum lines. Sucks his rig is throwing the code, but at least he's in good hands troubleshooting the problem.
That's a good point and thanks for reminding about this. We did have his engine fairly torn apart and didn't notice any problems with the vacuum lines but the next time I get Greg over my place I'm going to take a good look at them.
Good vid. Not too applicable with my car (Mitsubishi 380/Galant) but good to watch nonetheless. An ECU repairer said they're able to copy the data from my current ECU to the replacement one, and then I'll swap them out. I have an aircon issue which has been diagnosed by another ECU repairer to be an issue with the output circuit in the ECU.
Hope the ECU swap fixes your issue.
@@TimmyTheToolman I am very pleased to say it did fix my aircon issue. And everything else about the car is running just as before.
@@hrthrhs That's great to hear.
Great video. I think I would started with a compression test and leakdown test first before throwing parts all it.
We eventually did a leak down test of the #1 cylinder. It was fine. The problem ended up being gross play in the crank shaft which caused an audible engine knock that the knock sensors were picking up and generating the misfire. We suspected the thrust washers gave way and we were right. Greg decided to sell the truck and the guy who bought it dropped the oil pan and found pieces of the thrust washers on the bottom of the pan.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks so much for rescribing this. I think I have exactly the same problem with the same engine on the no 2 cylinder. It has been driving me mad. I have been on the verge of swapping out the ECU. Where the engine rests for a few hours, it starts and drives perfectly. After about an hour, the no 2 cylinder misfires and then the engine must cool down again before it works. Enough to drive anyone insane.
@@kimonpaxinos3747 Intermittent problems like this can be a pain in the ass to figure out. Hope you find the culprit.
I know this vid is old but I had the same issue on my Tacoma. I too replaced coil packs since mine has 130k miles , I have newish denso iridium plugs and wires. But I still had the miss on cylinder 1 and 4. What I found is that one cold night a mouse decided to crawl up in my engine compartment to stay warm and he chewed on some wires. If I ever catch that little focker Im gonna pulverize him.
Yep, rodents getting into engine compartments is pretty common and they can do a ton of damage.
Damn what could be the problem I agree a leak down test is a great idea
Great vid, not sure if this is connected to my problem. I have a 98 Tacoma and driving home one day my speedo, tach, radio all stopped working. Truck still running I went straight home, I got home and turned it off and it hasn't started since. Been troubleshooting and noticed my 80 amp ALT fuse was burnt. Replaced it, but still nothing. Everything is still the same. Any ideas? Wondering if my ECU is done??? Thank a bunch
Have you checked the other fuses?
Had the same issue before with my Honda. Did a leak down and air was getting pass the exhaust valves as air can be heard from tail pipe. Turns out my valve seats were shot which didn't create a solid seal between the valves and valve seats. As my auto shop teacher always said "diagnosis before throwing parts a car"
We performed a compression test of the cylinder and it tested good. But, we're going to do a leak down test anyway to rule it out.
Goodluck! A leak down is always better. Worse case, the head will have to come off and take a trip to a machine shop. Anyways great vids and awesome channel. I've been watching since I was gifted a 3rd gen 4runner and learned a lot. Keep up the work!
How about the fuel filter? If that has never been changed it could seriously limit fuel flow. Is the cylinder that is misfiring one of the last ones in line to get fuel?
Good suggestion. Coil too?
Love your videos! I'm hoping you could school us on using a nice scan tool to diag some of these problems.
The only scan tool I tried out was using Techstream on an old windows laptop. I used it in regards to the misfire problem I was trying to figure out for Greg's Tacoma in this video. It didn't really help me out. I wish I was more experienced in using scan tools to diagnose problems like this but I'm not. I do have a buddy Mark that uses a Snap On scan tool and he says it works really well but it's also really expensive. I do monitor my engine with the Torque Pro app getting information from the OBD II port, but it's mainly so I can closely monitor coolant temp, trans temp, charging volts, and to look up any CELs that pop up.
Got a 1993 Toyota pickup truck with the 3L V6 in it mine's doing about the same thing! After a few miles number one misfire comes up code. About 10 to 20 miles this time I've been tinkering with it and it didn't come on until 50 miles and it came up again. Seems to be getting very bad gas mileage. Those the gas tank and as somebody change the fuel pump but did not put the rubber plug in for the wires on top of the gas tank and come to figure out they was driving it for about 10 years like that! I could not believe what I was seeing in the fuel filter the fuel filter was completely stopped up change it but still did not fix my problem? If I figure it out I'll give you a shout out! I'm about done the same thing you and you guys are done. Keep the good job up! I want to do a new map sensor? Maybe?
Hey Phillip, good luck figuring out your misfire issue. For sure let me know what you figure out. Happy Wrenching!
Hey, Timmy! Thank you for your video.
I have a broken braket. It is specifically the bracket that holds one of the 4 screws of the pilot seat, I am surprised how thin that metal is.
So my question is, do you think I should unplug the ECU before welding that bracket?
I am afraid of damaging sensors or electronics of the truck with the welding. It is also hard to find a place to place the earth clamp as close as possible to the spot.
If you disconnect the battery, nothing will happen to the ECU.
Does the ecu also control the transmission shifting points. Reason being my door jam tag identification tag has a tire size or 225/75r16. Does the ecu transmission shifting points go off the vehicle's tire size. Therefore if I got a ecu from a 3rd gen with a tag that read 265/75r16, would the ecu transmission shifting points be at a different setting? Because I wanted to put say a larger tire would it benefit me to than change the ecu over from a 3rd gen with a stock larger size tire "265/75r16 " Thanks Timmy 😄
I would think the ECU controls the shift points. I doubt the shift points is based off tire size. From what I've seen with my 3rd Gens, it's based off speed and rpms. Changing the tire size from the stock size to a larger size and keeping the gearing in the differentials the same will throw off the speedometer a little and thus change the shift points some. One thing that changes the shift points is using the ECT button. It tells the transmission to hold the gear longer before upshifting. The only way to improve the power of your rig after putting larger tires on is to re-gear your differentials. I'm running 4.30 gearing on my 98 with 33" tires. I also have lots of added weight with aftermarket bumpers, winch, full belly of aftermarket skids, and a steel roof rack. I'm going to re-gear to 4.88 soon.
@@TimmyTheToolman, many thanks for the info. This was one has had me puzzled for some time now. Going to change the gearing to 4:30 today. Also many many thanks for all the videos you put together. Don't know how far my rig would be if it wasn't for your channel. Thank you 🙂 👍
@@bvinton2 You're very welcome. Good to hear our videos are helping you out.
Sounds like compression test next best thing. If it's been run a couple hundred miles since replaced, when you pull the #1 sparkplug it should show signs of burning rich.
We did a compression test already. Compression was good in all cylinders. Next step is a leak down test.
A very good video with very thorough content thanks tim
Thanks Michael. You're very welcome.
I’m so happy you did this! I’m doing a 4wd swap! And my name is Greg!
Glad the timing worked out for your Ron. Good luck with the job. Let us know how it goes for you.
Classic greg
Is there any reprogramming that needs to be done? Toyota dealer claimed that a new ECU would need to be programmed to my vehicle. I understand in many vehicles the keys are programmed with radio chips or specific resistors that unlock the immobilizer. Do I need to worry about this in my 1998 4Runner?
As long as the ECU came out of the same year and model, no reprogramming is necessary.
Best video I have seen yet
Thanks for the compliment Howard. We appreciate it!
We are leaning here Timmy , thanks for the videos brother . .. 👍🤟👌
Our pleasure Brother.
Replace ECU is really eazy just plug and unplug harness but all you need is a good scanner that can handle ECU,PCM match to married inmobilizer to ECU other wise vehicle wont start. I did it in my Honda Accord 08 I jut had to fallow the scaner instruction like swich key on swich key off but probably some brands and model don't required reprogramming. .
Most people don't own a scanner with this capability due to the price tag.
Do you know if the cluster is programmed to ecu on a 2001 Celica 1.8 vvti?
Hey Timmy, I have a 96 camry 3.0, and has a code 92 ecu malfuction on abs. Found one at a junk yard , same part number, hope it clears the ABS continuous light.
Fingers crossed it fixes your issue.
Very good information video thanks , have one to do tomorrow !!!!
Good luck with the job!
For the problem on your friends Toyota might I suggest replacing the fuel pressure regulator because when I was getting a misfire on my 2000 Toyota 4Runner that's what fixed it
Thanks for the suggest James but we actually figured out the problem and it was a BIG problem. Greg sold his truck because of it. Check out the video: th-cam.com/video/9Gpdq-tL79U/w-d-xo.html
Had a misfire years ago in a Chevy 350. After replacing a ton of parts, it turned out to be a bad exhaust valve.
I'm starting to think there's something majorly wrong with Greg's engine, especially since it has an audible knock when it's in gear. I used a mechanic stethoscope and the knock is in the lower end of the engine. You can hear it really well right under the oil pan. But, we're going to do a leak down test and check the timing. The initial compression test of the cylinder was good.
good explanation friend I am trying to repair my truck 4runner 2002 cylinder # 6 says the code change, several parts and I can not fix, change spark plugs cables coils oxygen sensor 1 and 2 maf sensor Fuel pump, fuel filter catalyst 1,2 and the exhaust now I want to change the engine computer ,,, my question is the computer that you are changing that is the part that I need or not
The ECU we got was for a Tacoma. Yours is most likely a different part number. Have you done a compression check on the #6 cylinder?
Tell your friend to use seafoam in his intake. Most of the times the intake valves get covered in carbon deposits by using low grad fuel then it won't seat properly, which at some point will cause misfire.
Ok, thanks for the suggestion. We'll give that a try.
Hi Tim, you mentioned misfire cylinder #1 was it an injector code or ignition code? I had misfire
(slightly rough idle) but a P0440 code, 98 Taco V6. My problem was a cracked vacuum hose top of the intake plenum. I used a can of Starting Fluid and sprayed around my hose connection points and found several hoses that needed replacing. If no bad vacuum hoses then a compression, leak down test would be next. Good luck and look forward to a resolution.
The code Greg is getting is a P0301, misfire of the #1 cylinder. We had the top of his engine torn apart for the fuel injectors replacement and didn't notice any glaring problems with the vacuum hoses. But, I'm going to take a good look at them again when he comes over next.
@@TimmyTheToolman was this problem ever solved?
@@ShaunCapoferri Yes, it was. It ended up being gross play in the crankshaft causing the misfire. His engine had an engine knock that I finally figured out where it was coming from. The knock sensors must have been initiating the misfire code to the ECU. Check out the video. th-cam.com/video/9Gpdq-tL79U/w-d-xo.html
@@TimmyTheToolman hmm… he had a misfire though caused by the ecu?
Very similar problem on my 97 started misfiring out of nowhere and all test are good.
@@ShaunCapoferri The ECU didn't cause the misfire. The knock sensors generated it and then sent the message to the ECU. The real cause was the play in the crankshaft causing the engine knock.
I think it is equal to a 4runner 2005 6 cyl, ..
Because my toyota i turn on the shiwcht and I have lights on the dash but it doesn't turn on, I turn on the starter and if it works .. but not with the key, I already checked the fuses and they are all fine .. I don't even know where to check .. and it was so by chance, it turned on very well when I went home and stopped in a store and did not want to turn on, but it had rained a lot .. greetings from Chicago
It could be a wiring issue and not the ECU. Sounds like an issue that's going to be hard to pinpoint.
Would a bad timing belt cause the engine to misfire ??
It could and that's why we are going to check the timing next. Greg bought his rig used and doesn't know if the timing belt was ever replaced.
@@TimmyTheToolman I bet thats what it is !! Good luck ! Keep us in the loop ! Cheers !
Yes
Check the harmonic balancer pulley for play.. seen a guy have huge amounts of play in it because of the woodruff key. He's got a video of it on TH-cam too. Good luck! Hope you find it!
Wow you guys sure know how to fire the 'Parts Cannon's... What's next? Engine or bring it to a great mechanic. Try Eric over at south main auto.. maybe it's cam or crank sensors?
We figured out the issue. It was gross play with the crankshaft that caused a knock and most likely the knock sensors were throwing the misfire code. His engine is done. So yeah, you were right, an engine swap is necessary. Here's the video showing the crankshaft play: th-cam.com/video/9Gpdq-tL79U/w-d-xo.html Nice job talking shit Sean. Yes, we threw parts at Greg's engine problem like lots of guys do. Maybe you should stay on Eric O's TH-cam channel because we're just dumb DIYers over here on the Timmy the Toolman channel. The next time you talk shit, your comments won't show up anymore. There's a way to talk respectfully so try a little harder next time.
Brother Tim sorry to hear about the misfire, but I have TH-cam sites for to visit: Scanner Danner, South Main Auto, and Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics. Really good resources!!
Thanks Jake, I'll check them out.
Yes, they are a pro's pro. I've learned a lot from them, yet I find some information a bit too advanced for me. They test a whole bunch until they replace a single part. Scannerdanner's motto is "don't be a part replacer".
Not being able to see the clips clearly, would a long needle nose help in getting those clips unfastened? Thanks, Garry
I wouldn’t use any pliers, you risk breaking the connector. Be patient, use your hand, and wiggle it while pressing down on the connector. This is something you don’t want to break, just be patient.
I'm about to do the same repair because of the same misfire problem, but it looks like this didn't solve it- do you know what will or has there been any success with solving Greg's misfire problem?
Greg's problem was gross play in the crankshaft. Check out the video: th-cam.com/video/9Gpdq-tL79U/w-d-xo.html
Hello Tim, let’s assume the swapping ecu fixed the problem. Do we have to get the vin rewritten or ecu reprogrammed?
I honestly don't even know if the VIN is stored in the ECU but that wouldn't change anything with the performance of the vehicle. As long as the ECU came from the same year, make and model, the ECU does not require reprogramming.
Hope u be able to get to that tundra problem, are checking the compression? , on cylinders?
It was actually a Tacoma, and we did check the compression on all 6 cylinders. We figured out that the issue was crankshaft play. Check out the video: th-cam.com/video/9Gpdq-tL79U/w-d-xo.htmlsi=oPFwtNBaWFdDFoum
My 1998 had a busted plug at the coil an it arched on my harness wires. I think it fried my ecu. I lost all spark completely after I saw the arching an tried to arrange things so it couldn’t anymore. Replacement ecu will be here tomorrow an I’ll see if it fixes my spark issue. I replaced coils and plugs and wires already to no avail.
I wonder if it could have fried your igniter. It's bolted to the driver side fender in the engine compartment. I'm not sure what happened would fry your ECU.
What was the final diagnosis of his misfire? I am having the same problem with my 2002 Tundra. We are putting in a new computer this week, but if that doesn’t work, we have already checked most other things.
Gross crank play. Check out the video: th-cam.com/video/9Gpdq-tL79U/w-d-xo.html
Great video Timmy as always brother
Thanks Brother
Thank you. I will need your help
You're welcome.
Great videos Timmy. You help me alot but the each old question is can you reprogram an ECU for a 1996 Toyota 4Runner and how?
I know ECUs can be reprogrammed. How it's done, I don't know.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thank you for your reply but I guess my question is does an ECU on a 1996 Toyota 4runnwe require reprogramming like the new models so? I hear it doesn't but is that true or accurate.
@@dominicene3647 No, you don't have to reprogram it. I thought you were asking about reprogramming an ECU to work for a different year and model.
@@TimmyTheToolman know of any reputable places that repairs ECU for the 1996 Toyota $ Runner? I see alot of them on online but I wonder how they repair them. I always keep a spare ECU and my original is not working properly.
@@dominicene3647 I don't know of any.
So no reprogramming needed? Some forms I read says it’s required?
@@KBM27953 If it's from the same year and model, no reprogramming is necessary.
Hi, Tim. I have a 2002 Toyota Tacoma that has had misfire problems for years. I finally had a garage that diagnosed the ECM-O2 sensor problem. They said they found "1 sensor 2 inop. There is a TSB that states when down stream O2 sensor is not reading an updated ECM will need to be installed along with a new bank 1 sensor 1 O2 sensor." I want to replace the ECM myself because it'll be a lot less expensive than the $1500 the garage wants to do it for me. Will the O2 sensor have to be replaced at the same time or can it be done afterwards if needed?
I'm not sure about your question, It seems the worst that could happen is you'll throw a CEL code if the upstream O2 sensor isn't working well with the new ECU.
Timmy, did you finally figured out why the misfire? did you fix it?
Yes, we figured it out. It was gross crankshaft play. Check out the video: th-cam.com/video/9Gpdq-tL79U/w-d-xo.html
Currently having this issue, replaced everything other than the engine itself and then happened to wiggle my wiring and the misfire would go away, the ignition coil wire plug on the harness for cyl 3 was sensitive enough to cause the truck to stall if touched, I replaced it, soldered in a new end, and it fixed the sensitivity but there is still somewhere in the harness along the firewall where if I pull it/wiggle just right it will run right so I’m currently trying to track this/debate if the whole harness is fried
Are there any signs of rodent activity in your engine compartment. They are known to chew through wiring.
Thank you for the response! No I have no signs of rodents but I’m currently working on it, and have the harness exposed but still connected, I’ve found the TPS black/yellow wire has 750ohms resistance but fluctuates easily when I wiggle the harness, yes the plug is secure so no false readings, the sensitivity seems to travel the length of the wire going into the firewall so I may be removing the harness inside to replace this single wire as no other wires are showing a varying resistance when moved
@@AutorRepairReviewsMaybe you would be better off to give it a good 10amp draw, just to clear out any rouge dissident electrons hiding out on crimp connection wire ends.
Hey bud I’m having some of the simmer problems that you are describing in this video. Is there anyways I can ask you some question?
Ask away.
Hi Timmy. I would appreciate your help. My 4 runner turned off and I have already checked all the sensors and fuses. the gasoline pump the gasoline filter. but I'll be there but the engine won't start. It has started a few times but I have to give it gas to keep it on and if I don't it turns off and the engine won't start again. I have also checked the fuel regulator and the throttle bar. I appreciate your response as soon as possible
Check the IAC valve. That gives the engine air while idling. th-cam.com/video/agIRNNA-6cs/w-d-xo.htmlsi=QxgfITQz-BC-F8RX
Good day Sir, if you don’t mind if you can guide me where to find the ECU for my 2006 GX470, thank you Sir
Well, the obvious choice is at your local Lexus or Toyota dealer. If you want to save money, you can search for a wrecked 2006 GX470 at a PicknPull that's the same model. I don't know if there were different trim models like they have for 4runners like SR5 and Limited. With those differences, the ECU will be different as well because the electronica are a bit different like the difference between a J-shifter for the transfer case on the SR5 models and a push button actuator for the Limited models. So, you can go on the PicknPull website and do a search for your year and model and see what you come up with. If you find one or more, you go there, pay your $2 entry fee and hope one of the rigs that's there still have the ECU in it. I don't know where the ECU is on the GX470 but my guess is it's behind the glove box like it is on a lot of other Toyota and Lexus models. Here's a link to a video of us swapping out a ECU on a 1st Gen Tacoma. th-cam.com/video/5-t69mMpazg/w-d-xo.html Another option is you do a search online and maybe someone is selling one on Ebay or wherever.
Hi Tim, thanks for your great videos, I have a similar problem with my 97 4runner, it suddenly shuts off at low revs or sometimes it just won't start and I have to let it sit for a few minutes before turning it back on, we've already checked almost everything and We do not see what the solution could be, the code P1300 is always read. Do you have any idea what could be the problem? I appreciate your comments
Hey Wilson, the code is telling you the problem. The P1300 is an igniter issue. The igniter bolts on top of the passenger side fender in the engine compartment near the cruise control unit. It's a flat looking box that's around 3" x 3" with a very large electrical connector. I'm guessing the igniter has an intermittent issue. Replace it and I bet your problems go away.
Are these ECU’s completely sealed? I have a 2001 Tundra and when it’s left out overnight during a hard rain, it roughs extremely rough and a hard time accelerating. Feels and sounds like multiple cylinders misfiring. The truck does have some rust and I was thinking maybe water was dripping into the ECU? Or maybe on the wires going into the unit? When the truck dries out, it runs fine. Also, if I drive it for a while in that condition it seems to clear up as well. Any ideas?
The ECU is basically a metal case. Is it waterproof, probably not, but it is waterproof resistant. If water is getting to the ECU you would see water dripping from under the dashboard on the passenger side. The water would make its way to lowest point which is the floor on the passenger side. If your rig only does this after a hard rain, it seems logical the water is getting somewhere to affect something but I'm not so sure it's the ECU. Have you examined under the hood to see if water is pooling in areas. Maybe it's one of your electrical grounds.
Hi Tim, great video! In the process of trying to fix my 01 Tacoma 3.4L prerunner and thinking of replacing ECU as a last resort. Starts great but shuts off immediately like the key was switched off. Once in a blue moon it will stay running and runs great when it does. New OEM fuel pump, fuel filters (in tank and line), spark plugs, new battery and terminals. Coil packs have normal resistance (~1 ohm) All fuses are good (checked with voltmeter). New OEM MAF sensor, cleaned the throttle body and IAC valve. No changes. I cannot figure this out and it’s driving me crazy! It doesn’t bog out when it dies like it’s being starved for air or fuel. It’s like the key is turned off. Any thoughts on what could be causing it to shut off right after starting?
Have you tested the igniter? It could be a grounding issue. Have you checked your battery connections, ground to the body, and ground to the engine?
What was the fix, I’m having the same issue with my 3rd gen 4Runner. Runs for a couple seconds and instantly just turns off.
@ChrispyTofoo
0 seconds ago
I'm In LIMP mode- 15MPH MAX Can't complete drive cycle, got knock sensor CEL- replaced with OEM from local dealership and OEM KS harness, $550. . Won't reset out of Limp mode, I can't get up to speed to complete drive cycle - 2000 4runner 5vz-fe now lots of other CELs have been appearing, I'm going to try to swap my ECU
i have seen other videos indicating the new ecu has to be programmed (2005 4runner) and ignition was in the on position for several minutes. other vids ive seen indicate new ignition keys for a new ecu. be a first replacing such for me.
If the ECU is from the exact year and model, there shouldn't be a need to reprogram it. I have heard that the key will have to be reprogrammed though.
@@TimmyTheToolman means best bet will be going to the toyota parts counter, vs a wrecker and dealing with that accuracy , thank you for the vid very nice
@@chevyvega6622 You're welcome. Good luck!
Hi Tim, Thanks for the videos, they've been a great resource. I'm working on an 01 4runner SR5, and swapped out the ECM to try to resolve an ABS problem. The ECM is from FlagShip One and comes programmed with my VIN. After replacing the ECM the truck doesn't start. I thought it was an immobilizer problem, but I can't seem to find good info on this particular issue for this generation. Have you run into this before?
Does the engine start with the original ECU? I haven't had to diagnose an issue with the immobilizer.
@@TimmyTheToolman Yes, it did start with the original ECU but had VSC/ABS/Speedometer issues
@@goose610 Did you contact FlagShip One and ask them for guidance? I would think they would have some insight on your issue. Maybe your ECU wasn't programmed correctly by them.
@@TimmyTheToolman Yea I did, and they ended up recommending I send it back for testing. Thanks!
@@goose610 Hope when they get it back to you, your problem is solved.
Will 2011 Lexus GX460 new ECU replacement be plug n play if you jump OBD 13 and 4 for 30 mins to set up the existing smart keys?
Don't know Kevin. I don't have experience with that.
Yeah bad timing could cause that problem
I wish you owned a 2nd gen Tacoma and did all this videos lol
Hey John, we will eventually do work on 2nd Gen Tacomas. We do work for people who hit us up for help. So far, nobody local to us has hit us up for help with their 2nd Gen Tacoma.
@@TimmyTheToolman I have a second gen Tacoma and it’s doing the same thing. I’ve replaced head gasket plugs wires coils maf o2 upstream and downstream and all injectors nothing seems to be working. So lost and don’t know what to do. Any advice?
@@damonoutman8530 It sounds like you've eliminated all the main possibilities. I know it hurts to take it to a shop because they charge a lot, but there's a chance some very experienced mechanic with lots of experience working on your engine might have a clue of the possible culprit. Maybe talk to a service writer at one of your local Toyota dealerships and ask if they have a mechanic well-versed with your engine and is good at diagnosing problems like yours. Tell them everything you've done so far to fix the issue so it narrows down their search. It might be worth paying a hours labor to see what they come up with. If I had an idea where you should look next, I'd tell you.
For Greg's engine, it ended up being gross crankshaft play that was causing the knock sensors to generate the misfire CEL. th-cam.com/video/9Gpdq-tL79U/w-d-xo.html
You check compression or do a leak down test? Mechanical issues like a sticking or bent valve, low compression, etc can cause a misfire as well.
We checked the compression of all cylinders and they checked out good. I didn't bother with the leak down test because of the initial compression test. But, we are going to perform a leak down test soon and check the timing.
@@TimmyTheToolman start looking electrical check the injector triggers with a noid light. also if you can have a shop with an oscilloscope check the ignition side for correct triggering of the coils and ignition patterns. A head gasket could also be the cause the chemical testers are pretty cheap to test. I have seen electrical issues plague diagnostics. I wouldn't throw anymore parts at it but run through the diagnostic flow charts for those codes and make sure the wiring is good as well your FSM should have those diag. flow charts. Mr Squirrel and Mouse like cause issues that may not be seen even just over night. I hate the shotgun method and guessing and stuff that goes on in the forums as well as in the comments below. I like seeing testing being done to rule out issues before parts being thrown at it. That's just the mechanic/technician in me.
@@scooter041031 I hear you. I'm trying to be methodical and diagnose but sometimes replacing things that are probably ready to be replaced isn't such a bad thing. Greg replaced his spark plugs and wires trying to fix this problem but guys do this as preventative maintenance. We replaced the upstream Air/Fuel sensor and downstream O2 sensor, but again, guys replace these thinking their mpg will improve due to a lazy O2 sensor. Fuel injectors can show they are electrically fine, but who knows if they are partially clogged which could be causing the misfire? So, we decided to replace the fuel injectors with some refurbished ones. After the fuel injectors were replaced, Greg said his engine had more power and a better throttle response so I didn't consider that a waste of time or money. So far, the one thing we did that was truly throwing parts at it was this ECU replacement. I was just going for the long shot since somebody on T4R.org said he had a long time misfire problem and a replacement ECU fixed it. We've eliminated a lot of things and we're still searching. Next step is a leak down test and checking the timing.
@@scooter041031 I forgot to mention that Greg took his rig to a Toyota Dealership a long time ago and it didn't sound like they put much effort into figuring it out for him. I would have figured since they have diagnostic tools like an oscilloscope they would be better equipped to find the culprit for the misfire. I know being able to diagnose a problem like this is the difference between a "Technician" and a "Parts Replacer". Hopefully we'll get some answers from the leak down test and the timing check.
@@TimmyTheToolman that's disheartening.
Tim
I have a 96 Tacoma. Is the ECU replacement the same process as your 2004 Tacoma ECU replacement video?
Yes, it would be the same since they are both 1st Gen Tacomas.
Hey Timmy, How are you mate? Other great video, thanks again for sharing with all of us, buddy I would like to ask your opinion in a situation my Toyota Prado 5VZ-FE 1998 is experimenting..... From not long ago, to start the engine in the mornings, takes me 2 attemps (cranking attemp), what I discovered was, once I pass the key on the ignition to just before cranking position is, the fuel pump is not priming, but once I crank the engine few seconds I am able to listen the pump working (maybe the crankshaft sensor works), then once the fuel lines got some pressure on, the second attemp to start the engine is satisfactory and the Landcruiser Prado runs fine..... I had a check all fuse, relays involve that factory manual T100 (which is the one I got) says, and nothing wrong.... I Checked if the EFI relay under the hood is receiving signal from inside the cabin and is fine... its looks operating. I did check the SEPARETED operncircuit relays, are fine too... checked the diagram schemactic and looks like the computer send some info to the open circuit relay, but dont know from what imput, Im guessing from some sensor like MAF or something like that which could not working 100%.... I checked the MAF sensor and is on spec 2.3Ohh at 20C centigrades of temperature.... My car from factory brough 2 fuel pump with 2 fuel tank plus a changeover swicht, that system work fine too. The problem happen with both pump. Well mate sorry for the long story but really I am scraching my head finding who is the responsable plus start to have that feeling of the car is no reliable as used to be!..... any imput from you I do really appreciated it bro! If you want reply me by emaul this is mine: jesromer@hotmail.com cheers mate!....
Definitely sounds like a fuel pressure problem. Have you replaced your fuel filter.
@@TimmyTheToolman Yes mate, I have done it, still doing the same thing.... and happen with both fuel pump (main tanks and Sub tank).....
@@jesromerg Hmmm. Well, it could be a sign the fuel pump is failing but since it's doing it with both tanks, I doubt both fuel pumps decided to start failing at the same time. If you have a way to check your fuel pressure, maybe check it upon the first start attempt and compare that to the second attempt. I haven't tried to measure fuel pressure yet on these engines but I know the factory service manual shows tapping into the fuel rails.
@@TimmyTheToolman yeah factory manual says to remove somo bolt on the fuel rail at the front side and connect a special fittment for the pressure gauge.... That is going to be a difficul one for me, dont have the gauge yet... well look what I did, I was able through the diagnostic port to brisgde +B and FP connectors before the first attemp, simulating a priming action, the fuel pump ran with out problem until I took out the bridge wich was for 4 second then I decide to give it a go as first attemp and the engine started like a Theft car... on the very fisrt one attemp....
@@jesromerg So, do you suspect an ignition switch problem because with the key in the "on" position the fuel pump isn't priming?
Excellent video.
Thanks Jim. We're glad you like it.
Timing belt or head gasket
Engine is not eating coolant so I doubt it's a head gasket issue. But we are going to check the timing and do a leak down test of the cylinder even though the compression test was good.
I'm having the exact same issue with my 2003 Tundra I have replaced all coils injectors spark plugs all 4 O2 sensors. Still has intermittent misfire that has gradually got worse.
But I have no codes and it's not catching the misfires
@@jefffranks6213 Don't know what to tell you. It's difficult when you don't have any CELs pointing you in a direction. Have you connected an OBD II scanner up or are you just relying on the fact the Check Engine light hasn't lit up on the dash? Maybe the bulb has burnt out.
@@TimmyTheToolman I have connected my Snap-On scanner there is nothing not even a misfire count.
@@jefffranks6213 I'd do a compression check of all cylinders as a next step then.
@@TimmyTheToolman to be honest I gave up took it to Toyota 3 days ago they've been diagnosing it the whole time they still have no idea.
Hi Tim, Are the parts you are using OEM? Aftermarket parts are just junk. I had NGK spark plug wires, but that was the only non oem part that is in my 4runner, so I went again with Sumitomo (OEM) wires. I also find Denso made in the USA are not as reliable as Denso made in Japan. May be Denso is not giving their secrets to Denso manufacturing plant in the US? Many US made Denso alternators are failing before 200K miles (some at 100 K miles: Honda pilot 2011) , but Denso Japan alternators continues to run even at 230K miles with 14V.
You know, I forgot to ask Greg if he used OEM parts for the wires and plugs. I'll need to ask him that when I see him next.
Is there anything you have to do with programming or syncing your key/ignition to the ECU unit? Or, is it simply plug and play?
It should be plug and play if you got the exact same ECU for your year and model.
@@TimmyTheToolman Hi, this is a very good question from lizperr because I thought the vehicle’s ECU and transponder key were somewhat programmed to each other.
@@jonarriola794 The vehicle we were working on is older and doesn't have a transponder key. That's probably the reason our swap was plug and play.
so.. no issue with entry Keys or key security immobilization system?.. no reprogramming?
@ChrispyTofoo For the application we were doing, there were no issues. I can't say if there wouldn't be an issue with newer and more sophisticated systems.
Thanks again Tim, just a 2000 limited.. Always been a huge fan!
Hi Tim, great video! Does the ECU on the 2002 have an "in-mobilizer" that requires the ECU to be reprogramed after replacing? The reason I'm asking is my 2002 T4R 3.4L Limited is flooding the moment you try to start it & my mechanic here in Colorado replaced the crank shaft sensor, the fuel injectors, the ECU, tested the O2 sensors & MAF and still the same problem. It will run for about 1 second then it dies. He says the moment you put the key in he ignition and turn it on "accessories" position without starting the engine, it is calling for and sending fuel... Any thoughts please? Thank you in advance
@jerrykraus3621 I'm not sure it needs to be reprogrammed. Sounds like your mechanic threw a bunch of parts at the problem, not knowing what the root cause is. It could be an issue with your throttle body.
@@TimmyTheToolman I agree, the mechanic already replaced the Throttle Position Sensor & Throttle Body. Have you ever had to re-program the ECU? ps; I sent you some beer money via paypal
@@jerrykraus3621 I have never reprogrammed an ECU so I couldn't be of any guidance for you. Thanks for the beers!
@@TimmyTheToolman You are the best! I can't thank you enough for all the help you've been over the years Tim. If you lived closer I wouldn't let anyone touch my T4R other than you Sir!
@@jerrykraus3621 Thanks!
What ended up being the misfire problem cause? Going through the same thing myself.
It ended up being gross crankshaft play. His engine did have an audible knock and we finally figured out what it was. Check out the video: th-cam.com/video/9Gpdq-tL79U/w-d-xo.html
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks for your reply!!!👍😁👍. I love that despite some like you have so many subscribers you still manage to reply to so many. When i see stuff like that its instant subscription. ✌️👍👍
@@pitchforkpeasant6219 You're very welcome. We do our best to answer people's questions and acknowledge their comments. Thanks for recognizing us for that. Happy Wrenching!
Tanks for the vídeo 👍
You're welcome Carlos
Crazy question!!!! What electronics do you do have to replace if theres a electromagnetic attack from a nuclear bomb?
Not sure. After the next nuclear attack, I should have a good idea as long as I survive the initial blast and last long enough afterward to do some diagnosing before I die from the radiation fallout.
@@TimmyTheToolman ok another thought. What about a emp attack.
Also thanks for the vids. Means alot!!
@@brads3111 The Matrix can be a dangerous place Neo.
@@TimmyTheToolman what do you think now about being overly prepaired hahahahahahahah you just got school morphius hahahahaha
I had the same misfire issue after replacing plugs, wires, and coil packs the code still popped up. Once I replaced ECU it hasn't returned. However in now getting the code P0420 so now that's where I'm at. But the truck stays running now
Maybe a replacement O2 sensor will clear the P0420 code for you. If you're truly having a catalytic converter problem, I would try a product called Cataclean. It gets mixed reviews but it's worked for some people and it would be a whole lot more affordable than replacing the catalytic converter(s).
What year model make? I’m having the same issues.
Gracias por la instrucción
De nada.
Will this direction work for a 96 Oldsmobile cutlass ciera? I have been looking for an exact video for my model but can't find it
No clue. We work on Toyota/Lexus vehicles.
Check fuel injectors electric connector, my daughter was loose from the connector.
It was getting missed fire cylinder 2.
This problem ended up being an issue with crankshaft play. th-cam.com/video/9Gpdq-tL79U/w-d-xo.htmlsi=UqvzW7ZeYbi8CHQ5
Timmy, one thing, you failed to list the torque specs for the screws and bolts, totally un-sat!!!! :)
I know Andy. I'll have to work on that.
Lol it's not hard just go buy a hanes car manual for your car. It has instructions engine wire diagram. Did I mention torque specs?
And there 11-20 bucks
I think I have this same problem with my 2007 toyota tundra (4wd control ECU problem) how can I test to make sure that my ECU is faulty
You'd have to get information from the Toyota factory service manual. You can access that information by paying a fee. Toyota Tech Info has information about all Toyota vehicles. You can buy a 2-day subscription for $20. techinfo.toyota.com/techInfoPortal/appmanager/t3/ti?_nfpb=true&_pageLabel=ti_home_page&contextType=external&username=string&password=secure_string&challenge_url=techinfo.toyota.com/techInfoPortal/login/techinfo&request_id=3973784981830953425&authn_try_count=0&locale=en_US&resource_url=https%3A%2F%2Ftechinfo.toyota.com%2Ft3Portal%2Fappmanager%2Ft3%2Fti%3F_nfpb%3Dtrue%26_windowLabel%3DT615220591352152272333%26T615220591352152272333_actionOverride%3D%252Fportlets%252Ftis%252FkeycodeLookup%252Fbegin%26_pageLabel%3Dtis_diag_security
If you go to the very bottom of that page, it will list the system requirements. You basically need a PC computer running windows 7 or 8.
Not sure if this will apply to Toyota but I had the same damn probably with a Honda 3.5 v6. Did everything you mentioned including PCV valve and nothing worked. Misfire code keeps coming back. My friend suggested a valve adjustment especially the exhaust valve. Clear the code and it has been 3 weeks and the code has NOT pop up!
Thanks for sharing this. I'm curious to see what the leak down test shows us.
Hey bro this is not a ecu question but there’s a clicking noise coming from the fan area under the same area but to the left do you know what I’m talking about
Does the noise occur only when the fan is on or is it all the time? In that area is the AC evaporator. When it's making the noise, is the AC on?
So once your computer is in if it turns over but doesn’t start don’t your have to connect a jumper and reset the ECU?
No, you don't. As long as the ECU is correct for your year, make and model, you install it and your rig should start.
Mine didn’t. I had to look up how to jump
The OBD 2 ports on 4 and 13. I matched the make model year and all that and it wouldn’t start until I synced the new computer to the car. You guy’s video missed that instruction. Unless there is a way to wipe the new ECU that I don’t know about
@@TimmyTheToolman the how to install part of your video was great! It just left out the how to reset the computer section which is needed.
TJack Survival I wonder why we didn’t have to reset the one we had then. Anyway, I guess we were lucky or maybe you were unlucky. Our ECU was the exact part number as the original. Was that the case with your swap?
@@TimmyTheToolman Interesting, was your vehicle also equipped with the transponder key ignition system?
Which is the harness to the OBD plug under the drivers side
Don't know what part of the harnesses that connect to the ECU communicate with the OBD II port. I'd have to look it up on a wiring diagram.
The computer of the Beast and its number shall be 89 666..... that is hilarious. Great vid tho might help with an 07 FJ, I think its location is similar I am hoping!
Glad you like the video. I imagine your ECU will be in the same place, behind the glove box.
Hey there, do you know if a 1997 ECU will transfer into my '98 4runner? Doing a manual transmission swap (have all '98 parts from a donor vehicle, but don't have an ecu)... found a '97 manual transmission 3.4L 4x4 ecu, but not sure if it will transfer ok? all the prongs are same at '98. any info would be great, no worries if not sure! Thanks for your videos, they have been helpful and certainly thorough.
I'm not sure but I think there's a good chance it will work because I don't remember there being any changes between the 98 and 97 models. You'd just have to do more research to see if there was something electrically different in the components between the two years that would cause a problem with the component talking with the ECU. That's about the best advice I can give you. You could also see if the part number for the ECU from Toyota is the same for both years.
@@TimmyTheToolman sweet thank you very much for the info and quick reply!!
@@glorifychrist7 You're welcome.
Hey Tim just want ur input on this: well my Father does lol: The Mobil 1 oil filter that he bought says it's good for up to a year or 20,000 miles. Do u recommend leaving an oil filter on a vehicle that long? Thanks!
No, I don't but I use OEM Toyota filters. I just switched to using full synthetic oil so I'm going to change my oil and filter every 5k miles. The longest interval I've seen people go with synthetic oil is 10k. So in your dad's case, would he replace the oil say every 10k and then replace the filter every 20k? Or, would he try to push both the oil and filter to the 20k interval? I would not let the oil go for 20k miles. If he replaces the oil more frequently than filter, than he'll have to replace the oil that fills the filter every time he renews the filter. The easiest way to do an oil change is to replace both at the same time.
So, my recommendation is to start with a 5k oil change and send a sample of your oil to Blackstone Labs for an oil analysis. If they say the oil looks really good with lots of lubricating properties left, increase the interval to 7.5k and do another oil analysis. If it still looks good, bump it up to 10k. Like I said, I don't think it's worth pushing it past 10k. Hope this helps.
@@TimmyTheToolman: he would replace the oil every 5k until he got to the 20k and then replace the oil filter at that point...would you ok that?
@@israelrodriguez6986 Well, if he wants to believe Mobil that it's good for 20k miles, than yeah, he can do that. I personally wouldn't push the interval that high no matter what a company tells me. But, that's just me. Oil filters aren't that expensive or that hard to change for me to risk that long of an interval. If the filter gets dirty enough that flow is inhibited to your engine, this convenience of only changing the filter every 20k just cost you an engine. It's not worth it to me. I guess you could search online in Toyota forums for people who are saying this kind of interval is fine with a Mobil 1 oil filters. I'm just not going to acknowledge for you that it's a good idea because I would never do this with my vehicles.
Im working on my 2002 4runner and i bought an exact replacement ecu but it just cranks. Runs fine with the OG ecu but i keep getting a pedal postion error after replacing the entire throttle body. The manual says to check the 2 voltages from that sensor and the supply voltage are good, to replace the ecu. I have tis and it says immobilizer B2796. Not sure whats going on. Any idea? It doesnt have a chip key.
Not sure Steven. Your problem is above my pay grade. I'm not sure what could be the cause other than the ECU you got has issues.
Is the location the same for the 2nd gen 4runner?
No, it's not. It's located in the passenger side kick panel. Check out this video at play time 25 minutes and 20 seconds th-cam.com/video/2V30K7ePLMM/w-d-xo.html and you'll see how to access the ECU.
the new ecu does not require any programming, as much as the key,?
If you got an ECU from the same year and model, no programming is necessary.
@@TimmyTheToolman thank you
For the most part the check engine light on my 4Runner had been on. Less than a week ago I had a low mileage engine replacement and STILL the check engine light is on! Please Timmy The Toolman can you help me? In the past having a 250,000 mile engine brought some concern about the light. Now with this differnet engine Im really concerned! Could it be the ECU? Is there a common reason fir the 5vz fe?
Andy Z have you run the CEL code yet?...
@@TimmyTheToolman eh.. no I guess Im getting ahead of myself. I'll get back with ya.
Do you have to get the ECU flashed to the current vin number and mileage?
As long as the ECU came out of the same year and model rig, you should not have to flash it. As for the mileage on the odometer, I'm unsure about that.
Timmy The Toolman i bought an replacement ECU, same part number as my old one. All it would do is turn over. Im wondering if my chipped key is tripping the security