Engine Misfire Diagnosis & Fuel Injector Replacement
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ส.ค. 2024
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*PLEASE READ THIS AND THE COMMENT WE PINNED FOR HELPFUL INFORMATION*
In this video, we discuss some logical steps you would go through diagnosing a misfire on your engine and then we show you how to replace all 6 fuel injectors on your Toyota 3.4 L V6 5VZ-FE engine.
On the positive side, Greg reported that he had better throttle response and his engine had more power after the fuel injector replacement. On the negative side, Greg's P0301 misfire code popped up again after 20 miles of driving. So, we're going to try to get Greg back over to do some more diagnosing to try to figure out why he's getting the misfire code. What we do know is his engine runs fine. It idles smooth and he has good power so there's no way he's running on only 5 cylinders.
MotorWest Performance
9741 Lurline Ave
Chatsworth, CA 91311
Owner: Martin Diaz
(747) 888-9768
motorwestperfo...
*PARTS*
*Set of 6 Fuel Injectors from MotorWest Performance - #23250-62040
motorwestperfo...
*Single Fuel Injector from Toyota - #23209-62040
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*Injector O-Rings - #90301-07001
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*Fuel Pressure Regulator O-Ring - #90301-07024
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*Fuel Pipe Gaskets (Aluminum Washers) - #90430-12026 (Need 6)
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*Upper and Lower Plenum Gaskets - #17176-62040 (Need 2)
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*Throttle Body Gasket - #22271-62040
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*HELPFUL TOOLS*
If you're looking for other tools not used in this video, check out Timmy's Master Tool List.
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*1/4" and 3/8" Flex Head Ratchet Set - (used both these ratchets in this video. They are super functional and will make your wrenching life easier) amzn.to/2ql8nNA
*1/4” Drive Regular Extension Set
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*3/8” Drive Regular Extension Set
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*1/4” Drive 6 Point Standard Metric Socket Set
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*3/8" Drive 6 Point Metric Standard Socket Set
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*3/8" Drive 6 Point Metric Deep Socket Set
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*Flex Head Box End Wrench Set - (used a couple different wrenches in the video. These ratchets are super functional that will make your wrenching life easier) amzn.to/31x8BOo
*Milwaukee Mi12 Cordless Ratchet - (this is great for speeding up the removal and reinstallation of fasteners. I use it for most of my jobs to save time.) amzn.to/2utRZsE
*Milwaukee M12 Battery
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*Milwaukee M12 High Capacity Battery
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*Milwaukee M12 Battery Charger
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*Right Angle Needle Nose Pliers - (used to remove hose clamps)
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*Small Pick Tool Set - (used to break free hose connections off fittings)
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*Painter’s Tape - (used to cover intake manifold ports)
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*20 Piece Screwdriver Set - (nice complete set if you're in the market for a screwdriver set)
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*Long Set of Ratcheting Box End Wrenches - (used to break free fuel rail banjo bolts. The extra length affords you more leverage to break free tight fasteners) amzn.to/2oOhndL
*Multimeter - (The one I bought via Amazon isn't available anymore but this one looks pretty good) amzn.to/2NcuGwr
*CDI 3/8" Drive 30-250 Inch Pound Torque Wrench - (used to torque all the fasteners for this job)
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*CDI 3/8" Drive 10-100 Foot Pound Torque Wrench - (used in conjunction with the crows foot wrench to torque fuel rail banjo bolts) amzn.to/2U2vUA4
*Brake Cleaner (More affordable option to Clean Streak)
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*Crowfoot Wrench Set - (used in combination with the torque wrench to torque fuel rail banjo bolts)
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*Battery Terminal Cleaner - (nice tool to clean the battery posts and the inside of the battery clamps)
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**As Ebay Partner Network members, we earn commissions from qualifying purchases.
**As Amazon Associates we earn from qualifying purchases.
*Torque Values*
Fuel Pressure Regulator Bolts - 71 in-lbf
12mm Fuel Rail Bolts - 10 ft-lbf or 120 in-lbf
17mm Fuel Rail Bolts - 25 ft-lbf
Timing Cover Bolts - 80 in-lbf
Upper and Lower Plenum Bolts & Nuts - 13 ft-lbf or 156 in-lbf
Throttle Body Bolts and Nuts - 13 ft-lbf or 156 in-lbf
*PLEASE READ THIS COMMENT AND THE VIDEO DESCRIPTION FOR HELPFUL INFORMATION*
When using the crows foot wrench to tighten the banjo bolts on the fuel rails, to get an accurate torque value, I should have had the crows foot at a 90 degree angle with the torque wrench instead of how I had it inline with the torque wrench. By doing it the way I did, I increased the leverage of the torque wrench and thus tightened the bolt more than the torque value set on the wrench. So, if you want an accurate torque value when using a crows foot wrench attached to your torque wrench, have the crows foot at a 90 degree angle and you'll be good to go.
Where's the pinned comment about why Greg's engine light kept coming on after 30 miles? Mine is doing similar
How to replace o2 sensor on a hunday genesis 2016
@@ernestopop3284 I don't understand your comment. Are you asking us to make a video for that?
Love your baggie labeling system. Works awesome 👍👍
Did the misfire comeback? My toyota tacoma is having a cylinder 1 misfire, I have replaced spark plugs, coils, tomorrow I'm going to check if there's current flow is going through the coil and connector. Where did you get your service manual by the way?
This is a HIGH VALUE video resource right here. Thank you! I ordered refurbished injectors from Motorwest Performance and told them you recommended their products. What a world we live in today when we shade tree guys can get instruction like this out here for free AND get connected to the best suppliers too.
Thanks John and you're very welcome. Motorwest Performance does great work and I've heard nothing but positive reviews of their business so I'm happy to promote them. Thanks for taking the time to comment. We appreciate it. I hope the job goes smooth for you. Happy Wrenching!
How are those injectors holding up !?
I found their website, thanks to you, the cleaning service is only $25/per, that’s awesome, especially for a shop in California.
I just completed replacing all six fuel injectors, valve cover gaskets (including both rear cam plugs and all four half-moons and PCV valve) and plugs and wires in my 2000 4Runner 3.4 (199,000 miles). First, a huge thank you to Timmy The Toolman! I would have never attempted this work without your videos. I did it over two days and it was a lot of work. I have so much respect for all the mechanics out there who keep the world running everyday.
So for anyone wondering these were my truck's symptoms:
When starting cold it would start and run fine and I could drive it for hours without any issues. However, if I did a warm start maybe 30 minutes after turning it off, cylinder 4 would misfire badly making the truck barely drivable. At first, the misfire would go away after driving for a few minutes but as the issue progressed it began lasting longer and longer and finally would not go away. I invested in a Bluetooth ODB2 scanner and the ODB Fusion app and was able to monitor and log tons of data and then graph it all in excel. Everything looked normal with the exception of the cylinder 4 misfire. So after cleaning the MAF sensor and confirming all other sensors seemed to be working normally I finally decided to it must be the cylinder 4 injector. The injectors were likely original so I knew they would all need replacing anyway and I figured while I was in there I would do the valve cover gaskets as well which were leaking oil badly.
It's running great now! Feels smoother and peppier for sure. So after many test drives today the issue is gone! I'm very relieved. I ordered my replacement injectors (Denso refurbished) from Motorwest Performance. The only thing I can think of is that maybe the injector was sticking but only in the scenario described above. I will say that all of the old injectors looked a little rough.
Some issues I ran into:
This may be obvious to some but not to all including me...torque wrenches may or may not work in reverse. I assumed it would and while torqueing the 17mm fuel rails I wondered why it was not clicking. I was using an extension in a strange orientation which reversed the direction. Anyway, I figured it out but just beware of this as I could have easily broken or stripped the fuel rail. Also, listen to your intuition. I know what 25 ft. lbs. feels like so alarms should have gone off in my head immediately...but they didn't.
The PCV was so old and hardened that it broke and fell inside the valve cover when I was trying to remove it. I had to carefully break it up with a hammer and screwdriver and then I was able to get the broken pieces out.
I used those small silicone stoppers to plug the fuel pressure regulator as well as the throttle body coolant lines. As I removed the driver's side fuel rail (with fuel pressure regulator attached with plugged up hose) fuel started spilling out a bit and then I noticed that the yellow stopper that I used to plug the hose was gone and I had 3 open fuel injector ports! Arghh! I figured the stopper just dropped and landed somewhere in the engine compartment but I wasn't sure until I finally found it in the grass! Phew. The moral here is be careful if using them to make sure they are in tight so that there is no chance of them falling out and into an open engine orifice.
You're very welcome Sidney. Glad our videos helped you get all this work done and your misfire fixed. Thanks for the comment to share your experience. Great Job!
I wrote you a while back, yammering about to much talking. I now want to say - well shut my mouth.
I have since reviewed more of you videos, and now think your channel is the only "comprehensive", complete auto repair channel on the web. I wish the repair was on a 2.4, but what the hell.
Now I see you as a true gentleman, articulate, knowledgeable and a total pro at filming and editing.
Quite an accomplishment, beyond being the first one to receive an apology from me, since the nixon administraton.
Thanks Bro! I appreciate you returning and sharing this with us. A true sign of character is being able to admit when you're wrong. I'm wrong all the time, but I admit my mistakes and try to learn from them. Being too verbose is one of the things I'm most commonly criticized for. I know I talk a lot and sometimes repeat myself, but it's only because I want to make sure my message is conveyed clearly and accurately.
Sean and I decided when we started making videos together that we didn't want to confuse people. We wanted people to understand exactly what to do and how to do it. This meant we had to create videos that were very detailed and comprehensive that a total beginner could understand and follow along. As soon as we start assuming people know a certain amount, that's when we'll start losing people and confuse them.
We decided to go against the standard suggestion of making short videos, no longer than around 20 minutes. We sometimes break long jobs into parts because it makes sense to do so, like when we've done transmission and engine swaps. But, we quite often put out hour long videos instead of braking them up into 3 shorter 20 minute videos because what's the difference? We would only be inundating the audience with even more advertisements and maybe that's why some creators do that. If people want to learn how to do a job, they'll sit through the hour long video and be stoked we provided them with the information.
Thanks again for your nice compliment of our channel. Happy Wrenching!
#3 Misfire when Warm finally fixed! After changing plugs, wires, coil pack I decided to replace fuel injectors with reconditioned ones from Motorwest. I was reluctant to do a compression and leak down test because this was an intermittent issue. This video was awesome and was vital to my confidence and success. I would also highly recommend Motorwest for OEM Fuel injectors. I’m glad I had new plenum a and TB gaskets.
I no longer have the #3 misfire and CEL.
My 4Runner that has 251k, starts way better, the throttle response has increased and the engine seems to run quieter for some reason.
Notes/Tips - be careful to not over-tighten the intake plenum because the aluminum can strip out. Use a torque wrench and the fuel rails and intake, especially if you are not confident with your tightening abilities.
Replace your gaskets, it’s a better feeling having them when removing parts. OEM Fuel injectors only, Motorwest is the way to go and a pleasure to work with. I cleaned my intake plenum with degreaser. It looks way nicer. Vacuum out dirt/debris/broken plastic inside side of valve covers and fuel injector ports. Replace your fuel rail gasket/washers. 6 are needed.
The job took about 3 hours and I took my time.
Thanks Timmy for your fast response and Motorwest for the fuel injectors.
Hey Julius, great to hear you found our video helpful and swapping out the injectors fixed your misfire problem and you're engine is running overall better. Thanks for taking the time to comment and share your success with us. We appreciate it. Happy Wrenching!
Thanks for sharing, I will try this!
Can not thank you enough for this video. Been chasing down a really bad misfire in my 98. Only got one code in the beginning for #5 cylinder. Tried swapping parts to see if it follows but the code never came back. Starting replacing plugs, wires, coils, and found this video. Got the fuel injectors from motorwest performance it absolutely solved it. Would not of been able to complete this or even know about these injectors other than very expensive oem ones. Most definitely owe you guys a beer next BBQ event! SicMods!!
I'm stoked to know our video helped you out. Thanks for taking the time to comment. We'll be having another Sic Mods BBQ in early July. If you're subscribed and receive notifications, you'll see our video invite.
Thanks Timmy for another great video!
I installed the updated / recommended by Motorwest Performance injectors (blue Denso ones) on my 2001 4x4 SR5 this weekend.
Not that it needed it, but I was replacing the valve cover gaskets... so while I'm in there I just went for it.
(also it made it pretty easy to remove valve covers without the fuel rails in the way) (plugged all holes etc..)
I think I'm OCD I broke out my old engineering calculator from back in the day & did the math for anyone who cares.
If you use the 17mm crows foot piece on the torque wrench in the straight configuration, set it to 22 ft-lbs (21.67) .. to actually get the 25 ft-lbs at the fuel rail bolts.
(probably doesn't matter much but that's what I did)
Anyway in the end, no more oil leaking through my valve gasket onto the exhaust manifold (and no more oil burn smell) And new injectors. Nothing is too good for my rig.
I think the joy and satisfaction I get doing the work is sometimes more than the end result when it's all done. Onto the next project.
Thanks again Tim. & Sean for all the work man NICE. Social distance? OK twist my arm... 9,000 FT here I come :-)
Thanks for sharing all of this. That's really interesting to know how much more the torque value changed by having the crows foot extending the length of the lever. I now try to keep the crows foot at a 90 degree to the torque wrench to get an accurate torque application to the fastener I'm tightening. It's good to hear you're enjoying turning wrenches on your rig and our videos are helping you out along the way. Thanks for taking the time to comment. We appreciate it. Happy Wrenching!
Tim, when they build my burial pyramid you will be one of the "gods" depicted on the walls!!!! I have a 2000 4Runner 2WD and a 97 4X4. The 97 belonged to a good friend but it has nearly 300K and is all original. I basically memorized some of your awesome videos and filled the rear cargo area with new parts and tools. Like a kid at Christmas, I played with my toys. The 97 had a bad misfire and the muffler was rotten. my friend was told the engine was blown but I ran a compression check and a leak down check. I gambled with new injectors, plugs, wires and coils. I installed a complete timing belt kit and new valve cover gaskets. I put a new muffler and tail pipe. The brake lines are rotten so that will be next. Thank you for turning my $500.00 purchase into something worth driving another 20 years. Tim, thank you for being my HERO. You are a ROCKSTAR!!!! Robert, Loganville, GA
Hey Robert, I appreciate the very kind words. I wonder what I should wear for my picture in your burial tomb. I guess my Toyota Time shirt, Carhartt pants and a Toyota hat. Sounds like you got a great deal on that rig. Have fun getting it all dialed in. Happy Wrenching Brother!
Safety Tip: When installing the fuel injectors into the fuel rail, I highly, STRONGLY recommend a very, very light coat of SILICONE grease (use a cue-tip) on the small, upper 0-ring and halfway into the fuel rail opening. (Do not use petroleum-based oil or grease that may eat the 0-rings.) FYI: my official Toyota repair manual says you can lube the 0-rings with gasoline. In my experience, gasoline is way too THIN to lube correctly -- you'll likely deform or damage the 0-ring and have a dangerous fuel leak! That injector needs to slide into the fuel rail nice and easy, and (gently) spin freely without binding.
---> Use a very, very light coat silicone grease. You'll be happy you did.
Hey Nicholas, what you say makes a lot of sense, but for the video we wanted to follow what the FSM suggested. If I do another injector swap, I'll give your suggestion a try. Thanks for taking the time to share this.
I had to redo the job because gas wasn’t a slippery enough lube and deformed the o-rings causing a leak. Used silicone grease the next time and it worked perfectly.
Dielectric grease?
Yes, I also use silicone grease on all my orings . Works great !
Love your videos Timmy! I have a 2003 Tundra with this same engine at 230k miles. I get stoked watching you do all these repairs and I want to go fix mine every time I watch one. There’s just one problem. The darn thing won’t break!
Great to hear you like what Sean and I are doing. Well, if you ever have problems with your rig, you'll hopefully find a video on our channel that will help you out. Thanks for taking the time to comment. We appreciate it!
I recently did a Valve gasket replacement and thanks to your other video it was a smooth job. I wish I had seen this video before I did the job because I would have checked the resistance and replaced the o-rings since I had it apart. I have been dealing with a small hesitation when slowly accelerating since I hit 300.000 miles and now at 350,000 miles. I have gone from 18 MPG to 15.6 MPG as well. I have replaced my coils with new Denzos, new spark plugs, new NKG spark plug wires, I have new O2 bank 1 and Bank 2 denzo sensors. I have de-carbonized the throttle while I did the valve cover job. This hesitation does not cause a code either. If I accelerate quickly it is not an issue. I had the injectors professionally cleaned recently also. I used a stethoscope to listen to the injectors today and they all sound similar and with a steady tone. This hesitation is driving me nuts. So I am going to do what you suggest in this video however 1 question. Since I barely put any miles since the valve cover job (maybe under a 1000 miles) do you think that I would need to get a new plenum set of gaskets or can I re-use the same ones? Thanks for you invaluable advice. Happy New year Timmy, keep the videos coming.
You can reuse the plenum gaskets. Hope you figure out the hesitation. Happy Ney Year!
I love seeing a mechanic follow the service manual. Your double click on the torque wrench is a sign that you really care about doing things to the best of your ability. Good work! I've got a Launch CNC605A on order (it's hard to justify the cost...but it sure will be nice). Considering how much work is involved in fuel injector changes it's going to be nice to be able to clean and verify proper operation before buttoning everything back up.
Thanks for the compliment. I appreciate it! Wow! You're going to have your own fuel injector cleaning machine. Let me know how well it works for you. Happy Wrenching!
Use Timmy's videos all the time to work on my 1999 3.4...Had an issue with the injectors (cold start fine, terrible idle, codes P300/P0303 when warm and during warm restart). Contacted Martin at MotorWestPerformance, pleasure to speak with and after purchasing the upgraded Denso injectors this 3rd gen runs lke new (just hit 205k). Thank you Timmy, Martin and everyone else involved in these videos!
You're very welcome. Great to hear our videos are helping you out. Happy Wrenching!
When my dad and I did this to his 98, we pulled the EFI fuse and then ran the engine until it lost fuel pressure. That let the fuel pressure be gone and not let out as much fuel.
That's a good idea.
You make the absolute BEST videos for these Toyota jobs. I am a mechanic and a Toyota specialty one. You are extremely thorough. Some jobs you do could be shortcut and done faster. But you do things the right way and I LOVE IT.
Thanks for the compliment. I appreciate it!
This is a fantastic resource for this type of job. I have a 99 4Runner and I recently had a #4 misfire (flashing CEL) and at the time, did not know (or have the ability) to diagnose it, so I had it towed to my local dealer. Ugg... we all know what happens next... They "diagnosed" it as a bad injector, and replaced it (says NAPA on the invoice) for somewhere north of $600 all in. After watching this video probably 10 times, I felt like I could do this myself, and ordered a set of reman injectors from Motorwest as well. Talk about a great company. Fast and extra o-rings just in case!
Anyway, I ended up digging in there yesterday and got them all swapped. No issues. Thanks for all the detail you guys put into this video. It gave me the confidence to tackle this job myself, not to mention the excuse to buy more tools! (the 17mm crows foot especially), so it was win-win for me as well.
I also decided to get all the gaskets for the valve cover job and do that at the same time, since upon further inspection (and a little sniff test), I got some oil leaks that burn on the exhaust. Also using your video for that.
And if it couldn't get any better, I used your other video on valve lash to check the clearances, since I was going that far into it already...
Once again, fantastic job guys. I can't even think of how much I saved.. and knowing it was done correctly. On a side note, I could tell where the dealer guy had been, since I found 2 bolts lodged behind some fuel lines, and that plastic cover over the harness (the ones that are really brittle) was completely non-existent on the drivers side and pretty much destroyed on the passengers side...
Good job getting all that work done. Great to hear our videos helped you out. Can't believe your dealer used a Napa injector. That's pretty bad. Thanks for sharing your story with us. Happy Wrenching!
how much did it cost you for all the parts approximately?
Great video! I just had this happen to me earlier this year. P0303 and P0306. I also replaced all of the spark plugs, new wires, replaced air filter, cleaned all of the injectors, pressure tested the fuel system and compression tested the cylinders. Everything came out great but the engine would stutter slightly at idle and would lose power at highway speeds. I finally replaced the fuel filter under the truck and that fixed everything! Might want to give that a shot.
Thanks for sharing this possibility.
I just bought a 2000 4runner about 8 weeks ago with a bad engine. Watched a lots of your videos on the 4runner. They are all really good. I just replaced the bad engine with a used one took me 7 weeks to do the job. I am getting old and my memory is not as good as it use to be so I have mark and film everything and rewatch it to see how to put it back together. When I started it up and ran it for about 5 minutes I got code p304 and p306 misfire. I have ordered 6 rebuilt injectors for it. Toyota uses 3 coils to fire the 6 cylinders, each coil fires 2 cylinders, one on bank 1 and one on bank 2 at the same time. On 2 cylinder lawn mowers its called wast fire spark. A good way to tell if it is the coil pack you will get a misfire on bank 1 cylinder and bank 2 cylinder that is fired by the same coil. Swapping the coils around will also do the same job. Sure you could be unlucky enought to have 2 bad injectors on the 2 cylinders that the one coil fires.
Great to hear you like the videos Sean and I are making. I think working on your 4runner will help keep your mind sharper. I know for myself doing all these jobs keeps the gears turning in my head. I'm learning all the time. Swapping coil packs was one of the first things Greg tried to figure out his problem. At one point, we swapped out all 3 coil packs with ones from an engine with known good coil packs and it made no difference.
If you check out the most recent videos we uploaded, we finally figured out Greg's misfire issue. His crankshaft has gross play, like around 1/4", maybe more. We suspect the thrust washers gave way causing all that play. I thought the misfire would most likely be signaled by the crank position sensor but somebody told me if the crank position sensor wasn't getting a good reading due to the crankshaft movement, the engine would run poorly or not at all. He suspected the misfire was generated by the knock sensors because the type of knock sensors on these generation Toyota engines are very sensitive.
Great vid as usual. I’m a former Toyota tech… I don’t know any tech that torques any of those fuel line bolts. Good on you!
Thanks for the compliment. I appreciate it. Sean and I try our best to do things like the Toyota FSMs instruct us to do, but sometimes we use the German Spec of Gudentite and go by feel when tightening fasteners.
i don't have a lot of experience working with car engines, but I followed this video and was able to clean and replace all the O rings on my fuel injectors as well as replacing one. I also replaced my spark plugs and wires and tightened my belts which fixed my cylinder 1 and 4 misfire. Thanks Timmy the Toolman!
You're welcome Megan. Thanks for taking the time to share your success story. Happy Wrenching!
Great video. I just finished the job, but I found that seating the fuel injectors FIRST then the fuel rail was the ticket for me. If you think about it, you have 3 O rings to overcome on each injector, if you seat the injectors first that leaves the upper O ring. The gas lubricant facilitated the bottom 2 O rings ( the gas did not evaporate as quickly as it did wrestling to install the 3 O rings in one fell swoop. Think of it as a 2 step procedure, first the bottom, then re-lube the top O rings with gas and work the injector back and forth until it slips on - easy.
Glad you like the video. I can get behind your technique of getting the injectors in. Whatever works. Happy Wrenching!
Thank you so much for being in depth with your videos. The most I've ever done is changing my spark plugs, but your video gave me the confidence to tackle this. I like how you warn us to be careful in certain parts of the video. These are definitely helpful to relatively inexperienced people. Once again, thank you for making such great videos.
Hey Daniel, great to hear our video gave you the confidence to tackle this job. Your success story is the exact reason why we provide lots of detail in our videos becuae we want everyone to be successful following our videos, not just experienced mechanics. Thanks for taking the time to comment. We appreciate it. You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching!
Misc colored electrical tape works great for “labeling “. Did electrical for awhile so have regular width and skinny for “labeling” tons of wire, hoses, or whatever
That's a great tip. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you for this I was able to diagnose this problem with my Tacoma. i ordered a set of matched injectors from Motorwest and used this video with the valve cover video and did both at the same time. Really helpful!
The motorwest injectors look completely different from the injectors I took out, I suspect they had been previously changed. Probably the reason for premature failure. The truck only has 50K miles. Hopefully I should be in good shape for a long time. The truck has so much more power! runs so smooth now!
I now have a high idle issue to find.. Never ending
Great to hear the injector swap worked to fix your misfire issue. Your high idle problem may be an issue with your IAC (idle air control) valve or an issue with your TPS (throttle position sensor). I’d try cleaning your IAC first. If that doesn’t do it, maybe test your TPS to see if it’s bad. We unfortunately don’t have videos for this but I’m sure the information you require is out there. Also check for vacuum leaks.
I'm also going to do valve cover and get the injectors cleaned at the same time! seems like the way to go. I'd be curious how it will improve mpg with fresh injectors
Timmy: Your video is the best that I have ever seen. Thank you so much. I replace 3 fuel injectors just by followed your steps and cost me only 3 X $45 = $135.
Thanks Sasan and you're very welcome. Great to hear our video helped you out. We appreciate you taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
I was doing this job on my 98 Tacoma and ended up snapping the union/banjo 17mm bolt while trying to torque down to spec. Realized my Haynes manual says 22ft/lbs for these. Finding this part locally was a no go unfortunately. Tacoma drivers check your manuals!
Love your videos Timmy! Thank you for the most comprehensive step-by-steps I have found! Keep them comin’!
Thanks for sharing your experience Ryan. Great to hear you like the videos we're making. Don't worry, we'll keep the videos rolling.
Timmy is always my go to Guy for any 4runner how to.. I will be tackling this same job this Wednesday. I am fighting a P0171 lean code on my 98 3.4 with 604,000 miles on it. I've ruled out any vacuum leaks, cleaned my MAF sensor and also pulled 2 MAFS from a u pull it lots and compared the numbers and all 3 are the same. Since Toyota no longer makes it I did try a aftermarket one first and my truck wouldn't even start with it. I've replaced both upstream and downstream 02 sensors with still no luck. Even after resetting the ECU after each attempt my fuel trims are way off LTFR 19% STFR 0% I get a stumble and very rough idle ONLY when the engine is hot and just restarting or at idle that smooths out shortly there after. I am replacing all injectors Wednesday and the fuel pressure regulator in hopes to sort it out. I bought all rebuilt denso Injectors and got my FPR from Toyota. Fuel pump assembly was replaced 2 months ago.. I'm not sure where to go if he injectors and FPR do not fix it. Timmy's videos are most informative and education. A+ on the fuel rail 17mm bolts is the torque spec 25 ft lbs or in lbs???
Glad you find our videos helpful and good luck with the fuel injector replacements. The fuel rail banjo bolts are 25 foot pounds. 25 inch pounds is basically nothing like hand tight. Hope the fuel injectors and fuel pressure regulator fix your issue.
Wow is all I can say. Your videos helped me get new valve cover gaskets and new fuel injectors from MotorWest into my engine. Took my time and got all the correct OEM parts. I learned a lot and want to say thank you for your time and effort you put into these videos that let us tackle these projects with confidence! P.S. Also I love your little jokes you fit in here and there haha!
Great to hear you're making good use of our videos and you're learning a lot. Also nice to hear you appreciate the little jokes I throw in. Not many people mention that. Good to know I'm not the only one laughing. You're very welcome and we appreciate you taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching Dave!
Thanks for the very informative video. All the details you provided helped me successfully replace the injectors in my Tacoma. The only problem I encountered which you didn’t have was my old injector cups separated and were stuck in the bores.
You're welcome. We're happy to know our video helped you swap out your fuel injectors.
Thank you so much for this video. My brother tore his 97 apart to replace knock sensor and wire. He couldn’t remeber how to put it back together so I had to figure it out, this was a life saver.
You're very welcome Ray. Good to hear our video helped you get your brother's engine back together. You're a good brother. Happy Wrenching!
I took the throttle body and upper plenum off as one piece and was almost able to take off the lower plenum along with it. This saved some time and a gasket replacement. I still love the depth you go into when explaining the surrounding parts as well as the one thats the main topic.
There's always more than one way to do a job. Glad you like the video.
Excellent instructions, followed step by step. Currently doing this but had to pause to get new connectors for the fuel injectors because they were so brittle a couple broke when disconnecting. Doing this on a 97 4runner and found the ohms value on 1 injector way high. ----> Let's shut down the torque police before they can come out. I am a mechanical engineer and work as a manufacturing engineer making transmissions. Using a crows foot at any angle will change the torque value because it changes the leverage arm or length of the wrench. How much, well it almost can be ignored since all torque values have a tolerance range. With the crows foot at the maximum length which is inline with the wrench it increases the torque about 1 in-lb so you reach 301 in-lbs instead of 300. Also due to the clearance issue you are rubbing the wrench against either the timing belt cover or wiring harness which increases the torque. How much, not enough to worry about. Bottom line you can set the crows foot at any angle that allows you to get it on the fastener and you will still be withing the correct torque tolerance.
Thanks for the compliment and the instruction on torque.
Thank you, used this video plus the swap engine parts 2 and 3 this past weekend to replace my knock sensors, wire harness and the fuel injectors (Motorwest Performance), one coil on my 2004 Toyota Tacoma. (Used your part list), P0330 plus P0303 codes gone, smog checked and passed today! Was quoted $2,600 for this job. saved a couple of thousand. 298,410 miles and hoping to break 300,000 and beyond!!! Feel a engine swap coming on.. LOL
That's really great to hear our videos helped you get the job done and it saved you an enormous amount of money. Stories like this put a smile on our faces every time. Damn, they were going to charge you a ton of labor. Off the top of my head, injectors, the knock sensors and knock sensor wiring harness cost you around $700. You saved yourself around $1900. That is huge! Great job doing the work yourself! Hopefully your engine lasts you for a long time to come. Happy Wrenching!
Thank you, for thank you, thank you! You save me the $3000 the dealership wanted to do this job.
You made it easy!
You're very welcome. I'm very happy to hear our video enabled you to do the job yourself and save BIG money. I guess you're now sold on DIY Auto Mechanics. Happy Wrenching!
Just ordered the fuel injectors from Motor West. Once they arrive, I'll replace the injectors, the coil pac's, the plugs and wires which I got yesterday. 217,000 miles, I might just as well do all at once.
Not even throwing a code yet, but I can tell that something is amiss. Engine cold runs ok but rich. Warms up, it has a shutter at freeway speed when you push the peddle down.
The injectors and spark plug wires are a good choice. I don't know if it's necessary to replace the coil packs though. Definitely don't throw away the old ones. Keep them as spares. Your stutter at freeway speeds might have nothing to due with the injectors but your engine will run better with serviced and flow-matched injectors.
@@TimmyTheToolman The injectors arrive tomorrow. Schedule to install everything next week. I bet your 100% right about how it should run better overall. Doesn't run all the bad in the first place.
Thanks for doing videos.
@@williamarmstrong6645 Good luck with the work William. Hope it goes smooth for you.
@@TimmyTheToolman All went well, runs great.
Now that that's done, time to take care of the carrier bearing.. and if the budget holds out a tundra brake upgrade on the front and 4 new tires..
If you know where I can get my hands on a divers side passenger door in White for a 2002 Tacoma I'll appreciated it very much.
@@williamarmstrong6645 Good to hear it went well. There's a guy I now on Facebook that parts out 4runners and maybe he parts out Tacomas too. It's worth a shot to contact him and ask. Here's a link to this page: facebook.com/josh.young.3950
Hope all goes well for Greg and that he finds a cheap easy fix soon. I'll be staying tuned in for an update.
Great work as always Timmy!
Thanks Barak. We replaced his upstream air/fuel sensor and downstream O2 sensor but don't know if this fixed the misfire or not just yet. Greg needs to drive it for more miles. The misfire usually pops up after around 20 miles.
Just replaced all six of them watching this video. Everything is well instructed and goes step by step. This guy is awesome. Thanks for sharing this info. My 2002 4runner runs like it came out of the lot.
Hey Joel, glad the video helped you out and thanks for the kind words. Happy Wrenching!
What brand are the oem ones ? Aisan??
Thanks for all your hard work that goes into making the videos and showing everyone how to do the job.
You're very welcome Chuck. We appreciate your comment. Happy Wrenching!
I watched your video and rustbucketprouctions. I appreciate that YOU actually gave the part number for the banjo bolt 17mm washers. I tackled this job on my own, I hope this finally resolves my long crank issue I don't want to burn up my starter!
Thanks for the comment Raul. Hopefully your engine issue is fixed.
This video is worthy of being used to train Toyota technicians,
Thank you for the nice compliment. We appreciate it!
Thanks for the great video. My son's 98 4runner is back running smooth and sweet. We sent the injectors to Motorwest, and two injectors were bad, not just one, based on the code.
You're very welcome Victor. Glad you got your son's rig running well and Motorwest Performance was able to help you out. Thanks for taking the time to comment and share your success story with us. We appreciate it! Happy Wrenching!
Your videos are awesome and such a help when working on my 01 4Runner. Could you guys possibly make a video for replacing a break master cylinder and hydraulic break booster pump? There are no videos for this on you tube. You guys are the best and I will keep watching for new upgrades. Thanks a lot guys.
Hey Ben, glad you like our videos. That brake master cylinder on the 01 and 02 models is supposedly very expensive to replace. The obvious choice is to try to find a used one off a wrecked 3rd Gen at a PickNPull but I think the word is out on how valuable those master cylinders are and people snag them super quick. The only way for us to make a video of this is to find someone who needs this repair and they want our help. I imagine there's a good chance we will make this video one day, but when that is, who knows.
Timmy, thank you for making another thorough instructional video. My fuel injectors from MotorWest is arriving this Thursday so I'll be replacing all 6 injectors along with the gaskets on Christmas weekend. Sounded intimidating at first since this is my first time opening up the plenum but this video provides me the confidence to do so, fingers cross my CEL P0303 goes away after this replacement! Merry Christmas to you man!
You're very welcome. It's great to know our video gave you the confidence to go for it and do the job yourself. Good luck and Merry Christmas!
Hey Tim, hope you're doing well. I finally changed all 6 fuel injectors on my '99 4runner by removing all 6 injectors and both fuel rails as one unit - just by removing the passenger side rail connection bolt. It's a little tricky coming out and going back in, but so far no leaks. Hope it stays that way. Thanks for this video. Your instructions are so clear and precise that it gave me the confidence to fix it myself. Thanks.
Good to hear your idea worked out. Thanks for updating us on your success with this job. You're very welcome and it's great to hear our video gave you the confidence to do this job on your own. Happy Wrenching Brother!
Hi D ! Would you detail the little tricky part of coming out and going back in...? is it because the injectors sits in an angle? or is it that fighting o-rings going in all at the same time? mind you to explain?
@@panard0 Hello there. You can remove all the injectors while still attached to the rail. Try to pull on it with equal force. Make sure to not pinch the o-rings going back in. I gave each injector a little twist after I seated them to make sure it wasn't kinked. Check for fuel leaks when you're done. It's a little tough to see with the intake back on. I ran the engine for a minute and then checked for gas fumes. It worked for me-haven't had any problems with it and it's been over a year now. Good luck with your repair. Timmy's video is awesome. I just didn't want to take the rails apart
Saving another Toyota guy from a couple hundred dollar repair, nice job and a very detailed video!
Thanks Anwar. Your suggestion for the fuel injector purchase was a great one. You get fuel injectors that perform like brand new but at a much more affordable price. I know I'm going to do this on my 98 to get better performance from my engine.
Great video! Many thanks! I had to do it a second time. Unfortunately injector number 6 leaked. I pulled the diver's side rail install 3 new O-rings on the upper end of the fuel injector. New crush washers on driver's side rail. I ran it on idle for 40 minutes no leaks will drive it in the morning it's cooling down now. Tim thanks again and take care.
Dave P. Thanks for stopping by & sharing your experience! We are glad our videos are helping you fix up your rig.
I may have overlooked it, but I noticed that the 17 mm. bolts at the end of the fuel rails have holes for gasoline. How do we assure that they are aligned properly when reinstalling? Thank you SO much for this wonderful resource, you've already saved me thousands.
You don't have to worry about the alignment. They can only go in one way. Put them back in with new washers and torque to spec. Done deal.
Well done! I'd read thru the process, but video is worth 10,000 words.
Manuals and write-uos are very helpful, but I agree with you, a video can show way more than any 2-dimentional instructions.
Timmy I like the way you work and explain things. Very detailed and meticulous. I have 2006 Nissan Frontier with a P0300 code and I believe it is the injectors. This video will help me take out the fuel injectors. We have a place in Houston where the shop will clean the injectors and put new O rings and give it back as per spec for $18.00 for each injector.
Thanks. Great to hear you appreciate the detail our videos offer. Good luck with the job and I hope the culprit was a bad fuel injector and you're engine misfire goes away. Happy Wrenching!
it's weird not having more people talking about having them cleaned
Big thanks all the way from West Australia.
This video gave me the confidence to fix a misfire on my hilux (Tacoma.) I’ve never worked on cars before and I’m excited to do more repairs in the future with these videos as a guide.. (But hopefully not for a while.
Thanks again Timmy!
You're very welcome Tom. Great to hear our video gave you the confidence to do the job on your own. That's exactly what we're after, inspiring people to do their own automotive work. Happy Wrenching!
Thanks for another sweet and informative video. I’m going through Motorwest for my 97. Talked to them and they said anything before a 99 has metal body injectors that don’t have a problematic solenoid like the brown plastic body injectors. So if you have a truck before 99 then it is cheaper to send your injectors in for the refurb service. If not then buy the Denso ones from their site.
You're very welcome. Thanks for sharing what Motorwest told you. I will share this in the video description.
Good Job; but there is one small detail that was overlooked. That plate on top of the throttle body with the 4 tiny screws should be removed and cleaned. What happens, as I found out on my 2001 4-runner, is that there is a 'carbon mound' build-up on the bottom of that plate over time. It may not have an affect on performance, but it's a good idea to clean it, as it doesn't get cleaned when a throttle body cleaning is performed. The holes leading down to the throttle plate are very tiny. Just a suggestion!
Hey Darrell, are you talking about cleaning the IAC or is this something entirely different?
Yes, I think that's what it is.
@@TimmyTheToolman Im in the middle of this job right now. Should I remove my IAC and clean it?
GREAT video. good looks
Ahmed Kunbargi be careful when cleaning the IAC, remove it and turn it upside down so the hunk you’re cleaning out doesn’t fall back into the areas you can’t see. Cleaning it can actually make it worse so be careful!
Best place to buy injectors hands down
We agree with you Chris.
@@TimmyTheToolman I live close by so I went in and they helped me so much. I bought all 6 injectors for 300 with taxes and no core fee ! It’s a steal honestly
@@christ2054 I visited their facility a few years ago when I was down south visiting my friend Anwar. Anwar was the guy who turned me onto their business. The owner told me they moved to a bigger facility because they outgrew their old shop. The owner Martin Diaz is a good dude.
Tim and Sean thank you both for taking the time to make these very detailed and informative videos. I appreciate it. Thanks to you I've gathered the courage to do this on my own. I'm going to do Valve cover gaskets, all fuel injectors, all coils and plugs, wires, half moons, cam plugs, pcv valve, fuel regulator, and every gasket that's involved in the process. I can't wait. One question Tim, what is a good scanning tool for a 2002 Tacoma 4x4? I have zero knowledge on scan code readers. I want to add one to my tool box. I'd like to hear your opinion on that.
Thanks again!
Hey Rafael, it's great to hear our videos are giving you the confidence to handle these jobs on your own. That's awesome! For a code reader, I use the Torque Pro app on my Android phone and the information is sent via a Bluetooth OBD II reader. If you click on this video link: th-cam.com/video/RumPXivBlk8/w-d-xo.html and open the video description, you'll see links to the OBD II reader and also a link to a shut-off switch. If you have an iPhone, that reader won't work and you'll have to get one that's compatible with iPhones. You'll also have to download an app that will work with iPhones. If you have an android, you just copy me and you'll have a good reader at your disposal as well as real time information you can monitor like coolant temp, trans temp (99-02 models), charging volts, etc.
Another successful job! Thanks for your thoroughness in making your videos!
That's great to hear Tony. Thanks for sharing your success with us. Happy Wrenching!
@@TimmyTheToolman I.took my 2001 tundra 3.4l v6 m/t for valve cover replace but i just notice that the diagnostic black piece by the valve cover left side of engine /upper planum is missing, how i can get a new one, what is the part number or how affect my tundra driving it without it
I woild appreciate your help
Good tutorial in terms of delivery. I felt compelled to comment but what I want to say is hard to communicate well. Firstly, in much opinion, you are the best and most talented of the mechanical TH-cam bunch. Scannner Danner, Eric, the wizard, etc The real world issue of only one misfire code on cylinder 1 fortunately limited the presentation. Therefore there was no requirement to test the whole range of.testing that can be necessary to diagnosis a misfire. I am only saying this as tatted intent was to do that. Your presentation and style is top notch, so I’m disappointed that you didn’t get to cover the missing pieces so still got gaps. I am looking forward to checking out your follow up video to help me check on Spark, fuel pressure, fuel flow, timing, vacuum etc. regards and thank you from N Z
Thanks for the comment. I have much to learn when it comes to diagnostics.
you are so descriptive in all your vids, great job ,too bad others dont get you need to explain everything and have great video clear and lit right thanks , just replaced my injectors on my 1998 limited ,which i keep because it came with the full chrome package, thanks
Thanks for the nice compliment. We appreciate it.
After all that work, if the misfire code returns, It’s possible, even though the spark plug wires are new, there could have bad continuity, you can OHM out each wire, it’s happened! Great video, I subscribed!
It ended up being a major problem with the engine. The crankshaft had gross play causing an audible know in the engine. We suspect the knock sensors were originating the misfire CEL. This video shows the play we discovered with the crank shaft. th-cam.com/video/9Gpdq-tL79U/w-d-xo.html Glad you like the video and thanks for subscribing to our channel.
Excellence Tim and Sean.
Always a fantastic explanation and detailed work. Thanks as always.
Thanks for the compliment of our work. You're very welcome.
Another excellent video! My go-to channel for my 4runners!
Thanks Dan. Good to hear our videos are helping you out. This wouldn't happen to be "Fear the Beard Dan Deemer", would it?
@@TimmyTheToolman nope! I have a scary beard but that's not me ;)
@@dand4564 Gotcha Dan. Thanks for being a fan of our channel.
I put new plugs. Wires, all 8 coil packs . My truck has 132,000 miles,. I took all 8 injectors off and cleaned the crap out of mine and runs nice now
Good job getting it done.
Timmy The Toolman I give all the credit to TH-cam, I watched video after video.
@@billcoley8520 Yeah, but somebody had to turn the wrenches. Even with the information readily available, a lot of people aren't interested in auto mechanics. They'd rather pay somebody to do it for them. So, again I say Good Job for doing your own work.
Did follow your wonderful video and got the job done today. Thank you a ton. Just during the process I didn't see the step where you put that 10 mm bolt back on the back of the lower intake lol. Glad I realized and did it. 😃
Glad our video helped you out. Yeah, we do sometimes miss showing some things. We always recommend people bag and label their fasteners so they will realize there's something they forgot to put back on and what it belongs to.
Tim, Thank you for doing these videos!! I have been watching for years now and you helped me so much on my 03 Tacoma. You are the 3.4 legend.
I recently bought a 1999 4Runner CEL codes come up with , Cylinders 1, 3 and 4 misfire.
New plugs, wires , coils.
I’m about to put in new injectors . Did this fix the problem for this runner? I don’t see the pinned comment you said you would put up. If I did not what is the next step?????
Again thank you 🙏 please keep it up.
Hey Ty, great to hear our videos have been helping you out for years.
The injector replacement on Greg's engine didn't fix his misfire issue. His problem ended up being gross play in his crankshaft. Check out the video: th-cam.com/video/9Gpdq-tL79U/w-d-xo.html
It's hard to say if your issue is an injector problem with 3 misfires going on.
What happened with your misfires?
Hey Tim, been using your videos for sometime now--I'm subscribed--thanks so much! I have a 2000 4runner Limited with the 3.4 L V6. Its 20 years old with 148k miles and is my project and fishing car down in Florida--well, its my only car down here. I love this rig. I'm the third owner, this 4runner had regular oil changes, but little else. I've changed plugs, wires, cleaned the mass air sensor, new pcv valve and grommet, rebuilt the rear brakes, put in a reman transmission (I had a brown milkshake), a new rear seal, and a new radiator. It is running much more smoothly and gas mileage is noticeably better. I'm chasing oil leaks, so I'm now launching into a valve cover gasket replacement using your video and will clean the throttle body at that time. So I'm thinking, what else is down there I ought to deal with while I have the intake plenum and the valve covers and all those hoses and brackets out of the way? So what do you think about replacing injectors as a matter of preventative maintenance? I don't have any codes, but this vehicle is quite old and I'm sure they are original. Is there anything else I should do while I'm tearing into those valve covers ?
Replacement injectors would be nice but they will cost you some coin. The place I recommend is Motorwest Performance in Southern California. The owner Martin Diaz discovered some problems with the OEM Aisin injectors so he decided to not refurbish them anymore. He's now suggesting people purchase Denso replacements. He believes in the Denso's so much that he offers a lifetime warranty on them. The link to Motorwest Performance is in the video description. I can't think of anything else I'd recommend doing while you're in there.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks! I'll use some of my coronavirus money for injectors!
@@josephbrubaker2373 That's a smart way to use your stimulus funds.
Timmyyyyyy! the Toolman does it again!!!!
Yes indeed Damien. Sean and I are here to help and we have lots and lots of videos with more coming all the time. Happy Wrenching!
Hi Tim, Thanks so much for the great videos. As always your videos are always detailed and to the point. Have a 99 V6 4runner and last week I stopped at the store and as I turn the car on , engine started to run rough and check engine light came on. stopped at Autozone and it's P0302 Cyl 2 misfire (injector). Was on vacation for about 15 days and the car sat in the garage, so I thought it may be moisture and put some Fuel injector cleaner and it cleared out the check Eng light and rough idle. Ran fine for a day or so and today , it ran rough for about 5 minutes while driving then smooth out again. OEM Spark plugs and wires replaced from Toyota 2 years ago , I'm going to swap coil packs this weekend and run more fuel injector cleaner to see if it's dirty . If I have to remove plenum, can I just replace 3 drive side injectors for now? I get an error when trying find rebuilt fuel injectors on the ( company you mentioned) website for my car, not sure if they are still in business but I just didn't want to spend $900 for injectors !!
You could just replace the drive side injectors if you want. I'm guessing that injector company is still in business. Give them a call and ask for help with your order.
Tim-excellent video as always. I had a similar problem with my 1995 Tacoma 3.4L engine. It had set a code P0303, cylinder #3 misfire. Did pretty much the same diagnostics as you did with the problem ending up being a crack in the cylinder head between the 2 intake valves in cylinder #3. Just thought I would pass this along as something else to look at if the code is still occurring on this vehicle.
Thanks for sharing this. For Greg's sake, I hope he doesn't have a crack in this cylinder head. We are most likely going to do a leak down test of that cylinder just to rule it out though.
An important point I left out-coolant would leak into the cylinder through the cracked cylinder head. A compression test had good results from all cylinders. With the engine at operating temperature and the radiator cap off, I would occasionally see bubbles in the coolant in the radiator. Thinking there was a very small leak in the head gasket, I removed all spark plugs and pressure tested the cooling system. After about 10 to 15 minutes I could see a small amount of coolant in cylinder #3. It wasn't until I removed the cylinder head that I saw the crack.
Thanks for the giving me the additional information for your particular situation. Again, I'm hoping for Greg's sake he doesn't have a cracked cylinder head. According to Greg, he doesn't lose any coolant which is a good sign.
Timmy, hi, thanks for your videos very useful, I'm planning to buy a 4 runner and I was wondering what to look on them when checking them out, like whats the most common problems this trucks have and what models to avoid, thank you again
Always use a brass, aluminum or plastic pick to remove “O” rings as not to scratch sealing surface.
Thanks Rick. You gave me a reason to buy more tools.
Timmy The Toolman You are welcome.
Love the attention to detail. Particularly the list of parts required. My prado is at 295,000kms, so I’m expecting to replace all the gaskets, fuel system o-rings, spark plug wires, coils, plugs, inlet manifold gaskets, rocker cover gaskets, rocker cover bolt rubber washers, spark plug tube seals.
I’m reading elsewhere various clips on wiring harness will be brittle and break easily.
(I’m on oz, the prado is pretty common here, we didn’t get the tundra in oz)
Glad you appreciate the detail our videos offer. Yeah, of course plastic wiring harness clip get brittle with age. Usually the electrical connectors themselves will be ok, but sometimes the push tabs that unlock the male and female side can snap and then the connectors won't lock together anymore. It's not a huge deal if that happens because there's usually plenty of friction holding the plugs together. Plastic wiring harness protectors can get very brittle and break apart and you can just replace it with some plastic split wire loom that you wrap with some electrical tape to hold it together. And finally there's the clips that affix the wiring harness to various points to the engine or to other engine components that can break. If that happens, usually a zip tie can effectively take it's place and work. Good luck with all the wrenching in the Land of OZ.
This is very clear like everything on your channel, thank you for your service my man, im actually excited to do this job cause of you. I just changed my plugs and wires and my misfire went away along with my CEL but every now and then i’ll have a tiny misfire when im idleing with the trans in drive. But since I’m taking all this stuff off the motor already I figure I’ll do my head gaskets at the same time. Hopefully you have a video on that as well too haha
Thanks for the compliment and you're very welcome. Are you talking about the valve cover gaskets or are you really going to pull the heads off your motor? Doing the head gaskets is a pretty big job. If you don't have any obvious issues, like low compression or you're eating coolant, I'd leave the head gaskets alone.
Timmy The Toolman well i hope its not the head gaskets i pray its just the fuel injectors, but in all honesty im upgrading to a full size in the near future and the 4runner is gonna end up being a huge project and im already comfortable working on this engine since its so simple and i have access to most of the tools you would need, it might be a big job but im pretty sure videos like yours, patience and common sense can make it more easy. Also im suspecting the truck already has cooling problems so along with a misfire it leads me to believe it might be the head gasket. 😞
@@ALItm1 Gotcha. There is a video series this guy did that was really good for replacing the head gaskets. If you do a search on TH-cam, you'll find it.
Use air gun blow around before you pull them off the cylinder, your situation is no need because it is clean
That's a good point. If you blow off the top of the engine with some air, you will limit the amount of loose debris you have to deal with when taking things apart. Thanks for sharing this tip.
I did all this on a 2000 4runner a year ago didnt record it but nice video bro
Thanks Antonio. We're glad you liked it. Sean and I have pretty much figured out that filming makes a job take at least 1.5 times longer. It can be frustrating because I just want to keep the wrenches turning but I have to wait until we get the camera at the right angle, make sure the lighting is sufficient and then I have to figure out what I want to say to describe to the viewer what I'm doing next. We know people appreciate it so that's why we do it. Thanks for taking the time to comment.
@@TimmyTheToolman your very welcome bro I filmed an entire suspension overhaul few weeks ago took over 4 parts to complete the video over 2 and a half hours in total I totaly get it bro
Yeah, I guess you do get it. Let me know when you post the videos and I'll check them out.
@@TimmyTheToolman I already did post them
Gotcha. I'll check them out.
i feel afterwatching the video i could do it. thank you very much. excellent video
Hey Justin, you can do it no problem. There's nothing special about the mechanical aptitude of Sean, myself or anyone else who's been a guest wrencher on our channel. Are some people more mechanically inclined than others? Yes, no doubt. But, auto mechanics is something people can learn and get better with over time. We always say if people are armed with the Right Information, have the Right Tools, and possess the Right Level or Patience, they can handle a high percentage of their automotive mechanic needs. We gear our videos towards the absolute beginner because we want to empower people take up the challenge of turning wrenches. Thanks for taking the time to comment and good luck with the job. Let us know how it went for you.
I've had a fuel injector o ring spray fuel after install. I didn’t replace the o rings at first. Highly recommend new o rings if you remove injectors for any reason.
Good advice.
awesome timing! I was just looking up options for injectors on my 3rd gen. Another great video.
You might also find a company local to you that offers the same services that Motorwest Performance does. But, from the reviews that Motorwest gets, they seem to do a really nice job on refurbishing fuel injectors and they do it for a reasonable price. We're glad you like the video. Happy Wrenching!
I got a 93 and Toyota four-wheel drive 3 liter V6 change the injectors still misfiring then I decided to change that O2 sensor oxygen sensor and then I decided to change the throttle position sensor and that's what fix my problem and might come up with the same thing so maybe it might help? Good job! Awsome!
Good job figuring out the problem and fixing it.
Were you guys able to diagnose the misfire code after it came back on? Thanks again for all your great videos!
Hey David, yes, we finally figured it out. It was a problem with his crankshaft. We think the thrust washers gave up the ghost and caused excessive play in the shaft. His engine has an audible knock and now we now why. So, it wasn't actually a misfire but we suspect the knock sensors triggered the misfire to the ECU. Check out the video: th-cam.com/video/9Gpdq-tL79U/w-d-xo.html
Hey Timmy, great video as always and your entire library has been incredibly helpful when wrenching on my own 98 SR5. One question I had though. Did you guys ever figure out what was actually causing the misfire? I saw that you updated the post a while back that Gregs misfire code came back. Just wondering what the final solution ended up being. Thanks again for everything you do!
Hey Chris, Greg's problem ended up being gross play in the crankshaft. The thrust washers must have gave way causing the play. He had an audible engine knock and I finally noticed the cause when reviewing some video footage and saw the harmonic balancer move a crazy amount. Check out the video to see for yourself. th-cam.com/video/9Gpdq-tL79U/w-d-xo.html
@@TimmyTheToolman Will do! Thanks Timmy!
Very helpful video. I am planing to change of all that on my "new " engine. Thank you for your advises!!
You're welcome and good luck with the work.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thank you so much!!
Respect for all mechanics
We agree with your statement.
The difference in the two throttle body gaskets is that one is used with the TRD super charger (the one without the flat side on the right) and the other with the flat side is the standard factory gasket. WHen I installed my TRD super charger for my 2000 4Runner SR5 with the same 3.5 5FZ-FE the installation instruction noted to change out the gasket to the one without the flat side to the right. Otherwise it will reduce the boost from the super charger. I took my TRD SC off for service and I left the replacement throttle body gasket so it allows better flow and does not have the restriction that the factory gasket has. Just fyi ...
Sure, people have used the TRD throttle body gasket on a non-supercharged engine. But, why did the Toyota engineers choose to restrict part of the flow on non-supercharged engines. There's got to be a reason behind it because why make two different throttle body gaskets if one can serve for both supercharged and non-supercharged engines?
Generally that code is thrown out when the upstream O2 sensor is going bad. If the fine work you've done on his fuel system doesn't resolve it, try replacing that front sensor (passenger side around the first cat). Note if it's a Cal model it may be an air/fuel sensor. When I had to do my 2k CalTaco sensor replacement Amazon had good prices on a genuine ND sensor and they had the correct connector pre-installed.
Thanks for this suggestion. Somebody on T4R.org also mentioned this as a possible solution. Greg's 04 Tacoma is California Spec so his upstream sensor is definitely an Air/Fuel Sensor. Do you know why the lazy O2 or Air/Fuel Sensor will only throw a code for the #1 cylinder?
Any one of the things you've tested and repaired could have been the cause and since the ECU is primarily comparing values from a single A/F sensor (vs one on each cylinder) I think it throws out a general code to cover them all as suspect. Could also be based on timing thresholds in the ECU (communication speed timing) and a likely calculation of crank position or firing order between the signal requested and ultimately received that is associating it with cylinder 1 or that it's always detected at the beginning of the firing order. Then the technician has the task of narrowing it down further with specific tests.
Btw, thank you for the videos you've posted. Have used your shock replacement, cylinder gasket, and brake pad/shoe replacement videos to help guide me in those repairs on my 1st gen Taco and have watched most all of them just to learn more about what's involved in lift kits, maintenance, safety, and general knowledge on these Toyotas. Keep up the great work!
My 03 Tacoma had the same code and I replaced the upstream o2 sensor. That fixed the code and is a quick and simple fix. Do use a factory denso o2 sensor though, I got mine off of rockauto.com for a reasonable price.
Thanks for sharing this Travis. Hopefully this will fix Greg's misfire problem as well.
Ok, thanks for the follow-up to my question. I'll try to get Greg back over and maybe we'll replace his air/fuel sensor. I've replaced both the upstream and downstream sensors on both my 3rd Gens just for general maintenance since I've heard they can get lazy and affect your mpg and engine performance.
Good to hear you getting some use out of the videos we've posted. Happy Wrenching!
I realize this is an old video(great job by the way) so its a long shot you're still replying to comments but i gotta shoot my shot cuz I'm running out of options. I have been chasing P0171 code. Fuel pump, fuel filter, both O2 sensors, coils, wires, plugs, air intake boot, pcv, grommet, MAF have been changed within last 2 weeks. Truck runs considerably better but code will come back within 1hr of driving afrer leaving batt disconnected overnight. While idling rpms change (drop) while spraying throttle body cleaner over fuel rail. I have gasket kit valve cover, upper, lower plenums, throttle body, valve caps, all crush washers, seals that you changed & of course while im in there i bought all injectors denso upgraded 4 hole. Is there anything internal that would cause it to run lean? That i should look at while valve cover is off. 2003 Taco with 395k miles on it. Im at a loss if this doesn't fix it. Unfortunately any CEL code prevents it from passing emissions. TIA if this comment finds you sir.
Was the MAF you installed OEM?
Great videos Tim! Regarding the diagnostic port: I have a 2002 Tacoma with the same engine, no diagnostic port. The only diagnostic port I know of is the OBD2 port under the dash.
I guess some of the Tacomas or maybe all of them don't have them then. Kind of interesting they don't because the 4runners with the same engines do.
excellent work explained very well thank you for post this video .I plan on working on a Toyota Rav 4 L changing all 4 injectors
We're glad you like the video and we appreciate you taking the time to comment. Good luck with the injector swap on your Rav 4. Happy Wrenching!
Impressive, clear, sequenced video!
Thanks for the nice compliment Len. We appreciate it!
Putting crowfoot straight will increase the torque by a little. Keeping it 90 degree allows keeping same radius and therefore, achieving accurate torque.
I realized after we shot the video. Check out the comment we pinned which discusses this very thing.
Just a comment on the use of the crows foot 17mm to tighten the bolts on the fuel rail: the issue is not the alignment of the foot to the axis of the torque wrench. The goal is to turn the bolt in a circular path, like any other bolt. The path of the OTHER end of the torque wrench is the important part: it must be in a circular path. To help with that, after placing the foot on the bolt, put one hand on the handle end of the wrench, the other hands thumb as close to the the bolt/foot as you can, and when applying pressure to the handle you will be able to feel the circular movement.
Hey Jerry, read the comment we pinned which discusses the proper use of a crows foot wrench when using it with a torque wrench. Your comment doesn't make much sense to me. Of course the bolt needs to move in a circular movement. How else would it tighten other than in a circular movement? The alignment of the crows foot in relation to the torque wrench is absolutely imperative to get an accurate torque of the fastener which we cover this in the pinned comment.
@@TimmyTheToolman Okay here's a stop action explanation. First consider any bolt or nut being tightened with an open wrench. Does it matter which of the six sides of the bolt/nut is facing out the open side of the wrench? [no]. Similarly, with the crows foot, does it matter which side of the torque wrench's pivoting square stud is on which inside face of the crows foot (ignoring the ball retainer the torque wrench stud may or may not have to help keep the foot on the stud) [no]. So, what we are left to consider is only the movement of the torque wrench. As long the foot is secured to the wrench, the whole assemblage must move in a circle, centered on the bolt/nut's axis. Granted, alignment as you specify probably helps muscle memory when tightening, as it makes the torque wrench appear as a long open end, but it is still a bolt/nut-centered effort. But that alignment just 'looks right' to your eye, the tools use don't require it. There could be instances where such alignment is highly inconvenient/impossible. Heck, I'll bet a buck ( nickels not being what they once were), that YOU even have a 90 degree/bent open end wrench in your tool inventory. same situation.
@@jerryb5838 The simplest response I can give is the longer the lever, the more force is applied to the fastener. The proper use of a crows foot with a torque wrench to not change the leverage means the crows foot needs to be at a right angle to the torque wrench. If it isn't, the value changes. I'm not going to try to understand what you're saying because it's making my head hurt. I try my best to give as simple of an explanation as possible to our viewers. If I tried to pass on what you're trying to say, I'd lose a whole lot of people. Get the the crows foot at a right angle to the torque wrench and you'll get an accurate torquing of the fastener. If you can't get the torque wrench in there with the crows foot at a 90 degree angle, I would then just suggest people use their best judgement and go by feel using the Ol' German spec of "Goodentite".
@@TimmyTheToolman No pain intended. One last try: because the torque is applied with a CIRCULAR motion, because the head of the torque wrench rotates, it is measuring resistance to circular motion, not positional deviation. Where on the circle one starts is of no importance. Ask any engineer (I'm a math nerd). Love your videos; I'm going to give myself a rebuilt engine and use your 4 video set: Many thanks.
@@jerryb5838 Gotcha Jerry. I'm now understanding better what you're saying now. I'm still thinking though the position of the crows foot in relation to the torque wrench could affect the value but maybe I'm totally wrong and what was explained to me by somebody else wasn't accurate.
Anyway, good luck the the engine swap. Did you buy an engine from Yota1 Performance?
This if freaking amazing... excellent quality and explanation
Thanks for the compliment.
Hello-
2007 Corolla 1.8 4 cyl
Just turned 34k. (Purchased from Elderly women, didn't drive much) Showroom cond., no codes, runs great..
except: the engine has an occasional "hiccup" "miss" hesitation....hard to explain, but mainly when its cold. You may only feel it 1 to 5 times during warm up.
-Due to age , we did put oem plugs in
Also-
-new intake manifold gasket (oem orange upgrade)
-new maf sensor
-cleaned throttle body and blade
-checked for vacuum leaks
-ran a bottle of gumout (with p.e.a.) in last tank full
Can you think of anything else I could try? I know this engine is one of the best built and should not be doing this as infrequent as it is.
Replace injectors?
Thanks!
Tom
I know the hiccup or miss you're talking about. My 3.4 Liter V6 does it too. I wouldn't worry about it. I think it's completely normal.
Great video
Great video and information!
Thanks. We're glad you like the video.
Hi Timmy, thanks for posting this great video...my 1999 4Runner with 396k starts great cold and will run fine but as soon as I turn off engine and then try to restart when engine is still warm it will misfire...my CEL started flashing while driving then went solid and then went away all together...when I got home I tried using obd2 scanner but wasn’t able to get any codes...next time I drove same thing happened above but this time I kept scanner on and was able to pull a code p0301 misfire cylinder one...important to note I can’t pull a code once engine is turned off as it seems to clear it itself...spark plugs and wires were changed 15k ago so I checked resistance of coils...all were out of range so I ordered new ones in mail...while waiting for new coils I tried swapping old coils but still got misfire in cylinder 1 which makes me think fuel injector is failing...I checked resistance of 1,3,5 fuel injectors and all were out of specified 13.8 ohm in manual... resistance was 15.9, 15.7, 15.7...I clicked on link in your video for motorwest and it says they stopped using the OEM injectors due to solenoid failure and now offer denso injectors as a replacement...I am reluctant to try the denso injectors because their not OEM...do you have any knowledge of anyone using the denso injectors? They are significantly cheaper than brand new OEM injectors but I have read you should use OEM injectors...any insight would be greatly appreciated!
Denso is a maker of OEM products for Toyota and many other manufacturers of automobiles. Aisin is the original manufacturer of the injectors. I just got off the phone with Martin Diaz, the owner of Motorwest Performance and I now understand very well why he's not refurbishing and offering up for sale the OEM injectors anymore. I trust Martin and if he's saying the Denso injectors are good, I believe him.
Timmy The Toolman I ended up biting the bullet and bought 6 new OEM injectors for peace of mind...the install went smooth and no more misfire/CEL...I was even able to do the install without numbering everything like I have in the past...what was once a daunting task now seems second nature...thanks to you and your team for posting these awesome videos I have now performed almost all the maintenance ones!
@@jj2956 Wow, you bought OEM injectors from Toyota? That must have cost your over 1k. But, it's good to hear you got rid of your misfire and our video helped you out. It's also nice to hear you are learning and becoming more comfortable with turning wrenches. As you have found out, auto mechanics really isn't that hard when you are armed with the Right Information, Right Tools and Right Level of Patience. Good job and thanks for sharing your success story with us. Happy Wrenching Joshua!
I love your videos. They’re well planned out, methodical, educational and entertaining. Not to mention I bout wet myself when you said chingaderas!
Thanks for the nice compliment Rogelio. We truly appreciate it! Nice to know some people think we've entertaining and pick up on my little terms I throw out here and there.
Great video Timmy and Sean. I used this as my guide for installing my supercharger. It’s very detailed and right to the point! My question is the 7th injector will cure the problem that I have about pingin? Also, is the 7th injector smog legal or you’ll have to do a dirty smog? Thanks in advance.
Oops. Sorry, I was looking at the wrong video. I meant when you guys installed a supercharger on Sean’s 4runner. Anyway, this is a great video also.
The 7th injector can help with the pinging but there's other things like upgrading the fuel pump and also using different injectors. Check out the Supercharger thread on T4R. It has tons of information and lots of knowledgeable guys that contribute. We know some stuff but you could learn a ton by just reading through that thread to be more knowledgeable on what you can do to increase performance out of your supercharger.www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/146022-3-4l-trd-supercharger-thread.html
Your the man dude, A real pro. Keep up the good work.
Thanks Cody. I appreciate it!
great vid thanks! was hoping you would have shown the suspected faulty injector in action on the bench, im working a misfire on the same motor , #6 cyl, i did injector flush at the rail and the mis did get better but still occasional mis, looks like the injectors are my next project. lol. 204k miles
Hey Jimmy, just get a set of refurbished injectors from Motorwest Performance. It's money well-spent.
Timmy... I did a test u showed on the diagnostic plug on a 2000 4 runner. It's the test for the IAC. My car showed that as bad. It's a brand new IAC.
Is the IAC an OEM one?
No sir it came from Advance Auto
@@tomassriggi6679 That's your problem. I suggest getting an OEM one. Aftermarket sensors for these rigs spells trouble.
Ok thank you sir!
I use dielectric grease on fuel injector o-rings. I never thought about gas hmm i learned something new to try.
Yeah, the gas idea came straight out of the Toyota factory service manual. The dielectric grease probably works really well.