I called the JD dealership yesterday looking for information about this for my 1974 110 . Well seems this minor adjustment is all that was needed I've had this 110 for about 3 years never had an issue. Whats sad is the dealership wasn't helpful. Thank you for posting these videos very helpful.
Kenneth Croissette, You are welcome. I have other videos on these tractors. So they are here if you need them.(points adjustment, and how to clean the carburator.) These old tractors will run forever when taken care of. I have had my 212 for about a year now, and I am loving it. Great little tractor, with plenty of power. I also have a newer version of this video on my channel if that interests you. Thank you for watching
They’re not going to pull someone away from what they’re doing in the shop / service dept, to answer questions. They are there to work on equipment for pay, and they won’t do that if they have to stop doing that for every Tom, Dick. and Harry on the phone. If you buy the Operator’s Manual, it literally describes how to do this, as well as other maintenance procedures / practices.
I have had my 216 for about 10 years, recently broke the variator button and bent pin that hold position, It NEVER really worked right. Got new used parts coming and SO very glad i ran across your video !!!! I never knew the darn thing could be adjusted !! THANK YOU
I can’t say enough about this young man he done a get job on this so happy I run onto this young man,,,,thank you great job do more stuff and I will watch you
Awesome...have a late 70,s 210 w/ snowblower attachment, adjusted the variator and tightened up the variator tension spring and everything is as it should be
Dude ... Have a deere 200 in 80’s. Wouldn’t move .. Belt was loose on the PTO. came across your vid... BOOM!!! pedal went up and it’s moving!! Thanks dude!!! Send some chicken eggs to CT. Lol. again thanks.
Once you think this through, you come to realize that removing the spark plug is not necessary. Just start the engine and adjust while running. But be sure to PULL up on the clutch linkage. If it is sticking, your variator clutch hub is worn out. Time for a variator clutch assy.
Hi, i just picked up one of these tractors. I got running but now have found a very weird issue with it. When in drive the tractor goes no problem. But when i want to stop, if i put it in neutral and release the left petal, the tractor will shake violently to the point that it feels like the engine is about to fall out but as soon as i press the pedal down, it stops. Again, the tractor drives fine in all gears. Would this be the issue? Would adjusting this fiz that?
Amazon $30: www.amazon.com/John-Deere-Original-Medium-LP92324/dp/B0013FEGEM/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1IQ7D1WC4OVWJ&keywords=john+deere+seat+cover+for+riding+mowers&qid=1559563565&s=gateway&sprefix=john++deere+seat+cover%2Caps%2C194&sr=8-3 the seat cover is a cheaper and mroe affordable option to cover the old ratty seat. its comfortable and works well, very dourable.
bought the variator for 30 bucks shipped on ebay new. also industrial belts work better then the john deere belts and a cheaper, not as cheap as lawn mower belts but they wear slower then all the above types.
Hey Mike, I have a 210. It crank and start with starter fluid but dies. I have fresh gas and changed fuel filter. Does the fuel need to be bled to remove air in order for it to work?
Nope, if it starts & does the carb is dirty. If you disconnect the carb feed hose & crank it over a few times if you get fuel out of it then we can say it’s getting fuel, so that’s not an issue. The issue probably lies in the carb. If it’s got fresh gas, but bad pump, the gas isn’t going to go anywhere. If you haven’t already, I’d just change all the fuel lines with good Made in USA fuel line on eBay, about 8-10ft will be plenty, instal a new filter. Make sure the tank is clean, if plugged use a wire to unclog it, then once you’ve got a clean shot of fuel flow to the pump, & if it’s good you will have fuel to the carb. Most of the time the pumps on these are fine, but I’d always check to be sure. You can either turn it over or just take it off, & pump is manually while diagnosing it. Once the fuel pump is good or a good one is installed if the carb is plugged it will not run or it will very poorly. If it’s the original carburetor I’d suggest getting an Isavetravtors carb or getting a good aftermarket OEM quality carb. Get a good one not a cheap china one, I got hosed on a china one. If you don’t use Teflon tape on the threaded inlet elbow it will leak, & act like a leaky bowl. If I had to guess I’d say the carb is full of crap. To clean it get some brake parts cleaner not Carb cleaner because carb cleaner will attack the original Gaskets in the carb & make your carb not work until you get a rebuild kit again. Carb cleaner is very dangerous, it can take off paint very easily if you use it do so outside in some grass away from objects with paint you care about. Hope this helps. I’m MikeJD60 just on my other account.
The pulley that drives the deck on the later 80s models is an electric clutch, the older ones were a lever like the 110SF up till 1974. The mechaical ones had a little bracket that moved the pulley in & out on a s fuction disk, the pulley itself had bearings that rode on the crankshaft of the engine, it’s customary to pull it off every so often for some grease, because if it goes dry now it’s rubbing metal on metal on the hardened crank of the engine & can permanently damage it. The electric clutch comes off with a 5/8” bolt I think. It’s been a while since I’ve been in there, been having some ring issues lately with it. I’m MikeJD60 just on my other account.
I have been looking for help on stuff like this I’m 70 years old and I want to learn how to work the 1””and 200 series before I die and learn something before they close the lid on my head that you son I’m waiting on the next one
For the longest time I couldn’t find a 100 series tractor/110 square fender. I’ve got a round fender that’s fixed up but still needs a belt, & a front tire. Things have been busy & decided to start doin diesel swaps on these tractors/make them more efficient, & cheaper to operate. My Sears is diesel, & hopefully my Deere will be too soon.
I’m not sure what’s wrong with my John Deere 212 I was plowing snow today and it stopped I don’t know if I got a broken belt or a bad variator I’m gonna have to take it into the shop it would not engage we had to push it home with chains on the rear tires and a big heavy blade on the front in deep snow that was not very much fun
Well it's been a year and have had no issues, mowed 4 acres all summer long, year before last I used a John Deere pto belt and broke 3 of them before switching to Napa belts.
you can use a different belt other than john deere, i dont know who told you that but they are wrong, gates b belts are just as good for any tractor. john deere recommends their belts, but its not a dealer only item,ok just saying
The Deere ones are of better quality. I'm sorry I made this long before I had a decent editing software, when i said that i was just guessing but apparently i'm wrong. Thanks for watching.
Ebay will save you lots of $$ by not buying Deere belts, they work great for multiple seasons. Who do you think makes Deere belts, Deere? No. Gates which is American and more American than the new JD's out there. Deere and any factory brand parts are way over priced.
Have fun replacing your belts every couple months because they won't hold up. John Deere's belts are made out of sturdier materials than aftermarket belts, and the v-pulleys used on their tractors and decks have a specific angle cut into them for the belts to fit tightly into without slipping. Aftermarket generic belts will not fit tightly in the pulley grooves and will slip and wear out much quicker. This is extremely important on a 110, 112, or 200 series tractor where the drivetrain consists of two belts and a sliding sheave. If you're having issues with the JD-brand belts breaking or wearing out quickly, it's because you have a bent, worn, or otherwise busted pulley or tension spring. With old workhorses like these, it NEVER pays to buy the cheaper aftermarket alternative. Trust me, I found that out the hard way.
bwhahahahhaa YEAH!!! SURE!! Grew tired of Original John Deere OEM belts breaking after a few months and yes.. All three machines were adjusted perfectly. Switched to Kevlar belts 4 years ago and still in use today from that purchase.. FYI: Just because it says John Deere and is sold at a John Deere Store ( IE: James River ) doesn't mean it is OEM JOHN DEERE! ex: Front axle parts for a 1998 and up 4100 are no longer supplied by YANMAR.. but instead they use a KNOCK off that last maybe 27 hours.. 4 rebuilds before they finally admitted they were not using original equipment )
Do you really think Deere actually makes their own belts? Obviously not. But Deere outsources their belts to a company that makes belts of good quality and to JD's specs, not like most of the aftermarket suppliers out there. Unless you happened to buy a bad batch of belts for some reason, I'm still firm on my position that something in the driveline was bent or adjusted out of whack.
Quick update the OEM John Deere drive belts really are not that expensive like $30. And Scott Baker the little money that you save will be the money you use to send back the Belt because it broke 10min after you used it.
I called the JD dealership yesterday looking for information about this for my 1974 110 . Well seems this minor adjustment is all that was needed I've had this 110 for about 3 years never had an issue. Whats sad is the dealership wasn't helpful. Thank you for posting these videos very helpful.
Kenneth Croissette, You are welcome. I have other videos on these tractors. So they are here if you need them.(points adjustment, and how to clean the carburator.) These old tractors will run forever when taken care of. I have had my 212 for about a year now, and I am loving it. Great little tractor, with plenty of power. I also have a newer version of this video on my channel if that interests you. Thank you for watching
They’re not going to pull someone away from what they’re doing in the shop / service dept, to answer questions.
They are there to work on equipment for pay, and they won’t do that if they have to stop doing that for every Tom, Dick. and Harry on the phone.
If you buy the Operator’s Manual, it literally describes how to do this, as well as other maintenance procedures / practices.
I have had my 216 for about 10 years, recently broke the variator button and bent pin that hold position, It NEVER really worked right. Got new used parts coming and SO very glad i ran across your video !!!! I never knew the darn thing could be adjusted !! THANK YOU
Jeff Cooper, no problem glad I could help. Thank you for watching.
How did the variator button break?
Was it a pain to change the whole assembly?
I can’t say enough about this young man he done a get job on this so happy I run onto this young man,,,,thank you great job do more stuff and I will watch you
Glad I could help!
Awesome...have a late 70,s 210 w/ snowblower attachment, adjusted the variator and tightened up the variator tension spring and everything is as it should be
Nice video, recently got a 214 for free. This worked like a charm thanks
No problem. Thank you for watching.
Dude ... Have a deere 200 in 80’s. Wouldn’t move .. Belt was loose on the PTO. came across your vid... BOOM!!! pedal went up and it’s moving!! Thanks dude!!! Send some chicken eggs to CT. Lol. again thanks.
No problem, glad I could help.
John Deere variator exclent job now I know how to fix mine thank you you done a good job put on more
thanks, rebuild my engine and fired her up and would not run unless variator was at least half way down. Followed this and all is good
Thanks for sharing Mike. I have a 214 that may need adj. in the future. This gives me an idea of what to expect.'Preciate it.
No problem, I'm glad I could help.
Mike you rock. Thanks for the video.
No problem. I’m MikeJD60, but on another/normal account.
More to come!
My it takes a young man to shout me how to do it and a excellent job of thank I liston to you when I need help
Once you think this through, you come to realize that removing the spark plug is not necessary. Just start the engine and adjust while running. But be sure to PULL up on the clutch linkage. If it is sticking, your variator clutch hub is worn out. Time for a variator clutch assy.
Scott Reynolds, that’s true. I did end up doing it that way to.
My notes: 1) I can put the screw driver on the seat 2) I can use a Chinese socket.
Hi, i just picked up one of these tractors. I got running but now have found a very weird issue with it. When in drive the tractor goes no problem. But when i want to stop, if i put it in neutral and release the left petal, the tractor will shake violently to the point that it feels like the engine is about to fall out but as soon as i press the pedal down, it stops. Again, the tractor drives fine in all gears. Would this be the issue? Would adjusting this fiz that?
"never put grease on the belt" and "never run over your extension cord".
Where did you get that deat cover? I need one!
Amazon $30: www.amazon.com/John-Deere-Original-Medium-LP92324/dp/B0013FEGEM/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1IQ7D1WC4OVWJ&keywords=john+deere+seat+cover+for+riding+mowers&qid=1559563565&s=gateway&sprefix=john++deere+seat+cover%2Caps%2C194&sr=8-3 the seat cover is a cheaper and mroe affordable option to cover the old ratty seat. its comfortable and works well, very dourable.
bought the variator for 30 bucks shipped on ebay new. also industrial belts work better then the john deere belts and a cheaper, not as cheap as lawn mower belts but they wear slower then all the above types.
www.ebay.com/itm/John-Deere-200-210-212-214-216-variator/163079415217?hash=item25f84a65b1:g:OvAAAOSwIWZZfLCF
I'm sorry I didn't respond d sooner. This video was made before I started editing videos. I'm sorry about the confusion.
Thanks dude
No prob. Thanks for watching. sorry for the late reply.
Thank you.
Hey Mike, I have a 210. It crank and start with starter fluid but dies. I have fresh gas and changed fuel filter. Does the fuel need to be bled to remove air in order for it to work?
Nope, if it starts & does the carb is dirty. If you disconnect the carb feed hose & crank it over a few times if you get fuel out of it then we can say it’s getting fuel, so that’s not an issue. The issue probably lies in the carb.
If it’s got fresh gas, but bad pump, the gas isn’t going to go anywhere.
If you haven’t already, I’d just change all the fuel lines with good Made in USA fuel line on eBay, about 8-10ft will be plenty, instal a new filter. Make sure the tank is clean, if plugged use a wire to unclog it, then once you’ve got a clean shot of fuel flow to the pump, & if it’s good you will have fuel to the carb.
Most of the time the pumps on these are fine, but I’d always check to be sure. You can either turn it over or just take it off, & pump is manually while diagnosing it.
Once the fuel pump is good or a good one is installed if the carb is plugged it will not run or it will very poorly.
If it’s the original carburetor I’d suggest getting an Isavetravtors carb or getting a good aftermarket OEM quality carb. Get a good one not a cheap china one, I got hosed on a china one. If you don’t use Teflon tape on the threaded inlet elbow it will leak, & act like a leaky bowl.
If I had to guess I’d say the carb is full of crap. To clean it get some brake parts cleaner not Carb cleaner because carb cleaner will attack the original Gaskets in the carb & make your carb not work until you get a rebuild kit again. Carb cleaner is very dangerous, it can take off paint very easily if you use it do so outside in some grass away from objects with paint you care about.
Hope this helps.
I’m MikeJD60 just on my other account.
Do you know how to remove the pully that drives the deck its on the side of the engine
The pulley that drives the deck on the later 80s models is an electric clutch, the older ones were a lever like the 110SF up till 1974.
The mechaical ones had a little bracket that moved the pulley in & out on a s fuction disk, the pulley itself had bearings that rode on the crankshaft of the engine, it’s customary to pull it off every so often for some grease, because if it goes dry now it’s rubbing metal on metal on the hardened crank of the engine & can permanently damage it.
The electric clutch comes off with a 5/8” bolt I think. It’s been a while since I’ve been in there, been having some ring issues lately with it.
I’m MikeJD60 just on my other account.
I have been looking for help on stuff like this I’m 70 years old and I want to learn how to work the 1””and 200 series before I die and learn something before they close the lid on my head that you son I’m waiting on the next one
For the longest time I couldn’t find a 100 series tractor/110 square fender. I’ve got a round fender that’s fixed up but still needs a belt, & a front tire. Things have been busy & decided to start doin diesel swaps on these tractors/make them more efficient, & cheaper to operate.
My Sears is diesel, & hopefully my Deere will be too soon.
Visit my channel to watch the Newer Version of this Video. You will not be disappointed! Subscribe if you have not done so yet!
I’m not sure what’s wrong with my John Deere 212 I was plowing snow today and it stopped I don’t know if I got a broken belt or a bad variator I’m gonna have to take it into the shop it would not engage we had to push it home with chains on the rear tires and a big heavy blade on the front in deep snow that was not very much fun
Did I say John Deere 110 112 120 140 so on thank you son
I get longer life and better operation using Napa belts (gates)
John R, nice. Hope you enjoy buying more belts.
thats disrespectfull
HEY!
Well it's been a year and have had no issues, mowed 4 acres all summer long, year before last I used a John Deere pto belt and broke 3 of them before switching to Napa belts.
you can use a different belt other than john deere, i dont know who told you that but they are wrong, gates b belts are just as good for any tractor. john deere recommends their belts, but its not a dealer only item,ok just saying
The Deere ones are of better quality. I'm sorry I made this long before I had a decent editing software, when i said that i was just guessing but apparently i'm wrong. Thanks for watching.
You can replace junk Deere belt w/ Kevlar reinforced belt at Peavy Mart ,,,, will not cost 2 arms and 4 legs as JD ,,,!
Ebay will save you lots of $$ by not buying Deere belts, they work great for multiple seasons. Who do you think makes Deere belts, Deere? No. Gates which is American and more American than the new JD's out there. Deere and any factory brand parts are way over priced.
Have fun replacing your belts every couple months because they won't hold up. John Deere's belts are made out of sturdier materials than aftermarket belts, and the v-pulleys used on their tractors and decks have a specific angle cut into them for the belts to fit tightly into without slipping. Aftermarket generic belts will not fit tightly in the pulley grooves and will slip and wear out much quicker. This is extremely important on a 110, 112, or 200 series tractor where the drivetrain consists of two belts and a sliding sheave. If you're having issues with the JD-brand belts breaking or wearing out quickly, it's because you have a bent, worn, or otherwise busted pulley or tension spring. With old workhorses like these, it NEVER pays to buy the cheaper aftermarket alternative. Trust me, I found that out the hard way.
You are correct MichaelTJD60.
bwhahahahhaa YEAH!!! SURE!! Grew tired of Original John Deere OEM belts breaking after a few months and yes.. All three machines were adjusted perfectly. Switched to Kevlar belts 4 years ago and still in use today from that purchase.. FYI: Just because it says John Deere and is sold at a John Deere Store ( IE: James River ) doesn't mean it is OEM JOHN DEERE! ex: Front axle parts for a 1998 and up 4100 are no longer supplied by YANMAR.. but instead they use a KNOCK off that last maybe 27 hours.. 4 rebuilds before they finally admitted they were not using original
equipment )
Do you really think Deere actually makes their own belts? Obviously not. But Deere outsources their belts to a company that makes belts of good quality and to JD's specs, not like most of the aftermarket suppliers out there. Unless you happened to buy a bad batch of belts for some reason, I'm still firm on my position that something in the driveline was bent or adjusted out of whack.
Quick update the OEM John Deere drive belts really are not that expensive like $30. And Scott Baker the little money that you save will be the money you use to send back the Belt because it broke 10min after you used it.