I have no idea how, but when I started my JD210 last week and went to back it out of the barn the primary drive belt jumped off the variator and got twisted up between the outside of the variator and the belt guide. Was an old belt (2002), but it was fairly new to me, only had been in use for about one year. While I was replacing the belt I took the opportunity to try and work dry graphite powder between the hub and the central sheave to allow it to travel more easily. This was not easy, as the powder mostly slipped right off the hub, but I kept spraying more powder on and spinning the central sheave while working it side to side. It seemed like the hub was tapered, as the central sheave wants to move towards the driver's left side on its own when the belts are off, but I'm not sure if that is by design or not. Once I had the new belt on and everything reassembled the variator was much faster in its response. Starting in 3rd gear with the variator in 5th position the JD210 practically jumped forward when accelerating from a stop.
Ive had that happen before with my round fender, Just put the belt back on the variator depending on how twisted up it is and you should be fine, Just dont dump the clutch let off slow and easy. Also it helps not dumping the clutch going up hill in 4th gear I have done that once. I would be carfull puting stuff on the variator like that. If it gets on your belts and makes them slip that will be a mess to clean up. But I am glad to hear you got it working like it should
Theres a bearing in the middle sleeve that spins on the shaft. When you want to go faster the one pully gets bigger the other pully side gets smaller the side that is further into the pully goes around more times (more RPM'S) Than the one that is on the side that closes the gap causing the belt to move up and the variator assembly to move towards the engine or tranny depending on if you want to go faster or slower. Its like a 10 to 1 ratio how they do ratios im not sure what it would be on this setup. Did I help you understand it a little bit better or do I need to make a video on how the setup works.
i was looking to buy a JD214, but after seeing all the problems with this variator , i a put off. my other belt drive machine is a craftsman gt with no variator and it works fine and belts last years. is it possible for you to shim the sheave so that both belts are permanently engaged or use a two pulleys welded together , thereby bypassing the problematic variator. lots of 14 horse engines function without the advantages of the problematic variator.
Its actually not to terrible dealing with a variator if you know what your doing. If you really wanted to you could weld two pullies together. The problem with that is if you do that than you cant adjust your speed and they tend to go slow set up that way. They made a 208 that has no variator you could swap a bigger engine into it if you wanted to but if I was you I would just go for it as long as you get one with a good variation you will be fine. I would haply help you if you end up needing assistance with it.
Good grief. The variator isn’t problematic. I’ve used these machines forever, and they seldom need anything. Even if the variatior needs adjusting, it’s not a big deal.
Fantastic video on how to adjust and set my clutch !.. Many thanks!
fantastic camera work at 26:57!
glad to see it working man keep up the good work
What wears out on them?
The middle section between the two belts. Over time it develops slop making it not work right.
I have no idea how, but when I started my JD210 last week and went to back it out of the barn the primary drive belt jumped off the variator and got twisted up between the outside of the variator and the belt guide. Was an old belt (2002), but it was fairly new to me, only had been in use for about one year.
While I was replacing the belt I took the opportunity to try and work dry graphite powder between the hub and the central sheave to allow it to travel more easily. This was not easy, as the powder mostly slipped right off the hub, but I kept spraying more powder on and spinning the central sheave while working it side to side. It seemed like the hub was tapered, as the central sheave wants to move towards the driver's left side on its own when the belts are off, but I'm not sure if that is by design or not.
Once I had the new belt on and everything reassembled the variator was much faster in its response. Starting in 3rd gear with the variator in 5th position the JD210 practically jumped forward when accelerating from a stop.
Ive had that happen before with my round fender, Just put the belt back on the variator depending on how twisted up it is and you should be fine, Just dont dump the clutch let off slow and easy. Also it helps not dumping the clutch going up hill in 4th gear I have done that once. I would be carfull puting stuff on the variator like that. If it gets on your belts and makes them slip that will be a mess to clean up. But I am glad to hear you got it working like it should
That 210 wasn’t a bad looking tractor
That’s a 212 with a 210 hood
I still dont know how adjusting the variator lever causes the pully wheel center to slide over and cause the belt to rise or sink ?
Theres a bearing in the middle sleeve that spins on the shaft. When you want to go faster the one pully gets bigger the other pully side gets smaller the side that is further into the pully goes around more times (more RPM'S) Than the one that is on the side that closes the gap causing the belt to move up and the variator assembly to move towards the engine or tranny depending on if you want to go faster or slower. Its like a 10 to 1 ratio how they do ratios im not sure what it would be on this setup. Did I help you understand it a little bit better or do I need to make a video on how the setup works.
i was looking to buy a JD214, but after seeing all the problems with this variator , i a put off. my other belt drive machine is a craftsman gt with no variator and it works fine and belts last years.
is it possible for you to shim the sheave so that both belts are permanently engaged or use a two pulleys welded together , thereby bypassing the problematic variator. lots of 14 horse engines function without the advantages of the problematic variator.
Its actually not to terrible dealing with a variator if you know what your doing. If you really wanted to you could weld two pullies together. The problem with that is if you do that than you cant adjust your speed and they tend to go slow set up that way. They made a 208 that has no variator you could swap a bigger engine into it if you wanted to but if I was you I would just go for it as long as you get one with a good variation you will be fine. I would haply help you if you end up needing assistance with it.
Good grief.
The variator isn’t problematic.
I’ve used these machines forever, and they seldom need anything.
Even if the variatior needs adjusting, it’s not a big deal.
More motor rebuild s
Why make a video if your not going to show what you did to remove
I know he was going to run over the broom
Had to it said something I didn't like