I appreciate the extra bits of info you provide, rather than simply just giving use the basic steps and calling it a day. I always feel more prepared to do a job (and do it well) when I understand the mechanics and any additional info behind the machinery, and you've provided exactly that! Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge and taking the time to explain all the working parts!!
@@catalystreactionsbw yessir! Just (successfully) re-aligned my front end after watching this and a few of your other videos.. appreciate you very much my man, least I can do is comment and let you know, so thanks again!!
That works, but I find it very labor intensive. I much prefer to order a caliper rebuild kit (the gaskets and the rubber o-ring that seals the caliper halves) and the pins. Split quickly the caliper, remove the pistons, clean everything (much easier when the caliper is split) and reassemble using caliper mounting grease. Works better in my opinion and it is a bit faster, than trying to juggle each piston half way out. Also, removing the piston and the old gaskets, allows you to clean the canals where the seals are mounted. In time they get dirty and the pistons don't move so freely anymore. For my trash/treasure bike (03 CBR954RR) I purchased a second set of calipers, so when a brake job is due, I quickly replace the calipers and rebuild the other set whenever I have time.
@@OKMotorcu Well, when it's time for a brake job, I do change the fluid also. Beside, if you don't let air get to the master cylinder, bleeding is a breeze. You should definitely bleed your brakes anyway. Even if no air gets in, periodically replacing the old fluid with fresh fluid is a good idea.
I clean the calipers every few track days and then remove the pistons and replace the piston seals, cleaning in the seal grooves in the caliper body… corrosion and dirt build up behind the seal and bind the brakes, the seals are a square section and work like a spring to retract the pistons very slightly after each brake application to stop binding and rubbing so it’s very important.
Hi Dave and Mr. Williams, thanks for the video. Honestly, I always thought cleaning calipers with a toothbrush was a myth since you can never get to the full piston with a toothbrush, but clearly, that myth is busted. I still clean the calipers, but never really observed an obvious change.
Cleaning the calipers might not yield immediate results, but removing the brake dust from the pistons and calipers prevents corrosion. If that happens you will experience seized pistons and/or pitted calipers... Even aluminum gets corroded in time.
Yep, you don't normally need to get the full extension, if they do go out that far there isn't any stability in the pressure... as most only move a few mm from the new pad to the used pad.
I've fixed a number of brake issues by just cleaning the pistons. It's an easy task once you get the hang of it. Soap and water to wash and brake cleaning as a finisher.
@@denchua Indeed, dirty, near seized, pistons are probably the number one cause for brake problems, followed by the rusty, or worn out pins for the brake pads.
I usually rebuild my calipers after each season. I used to clean it but the price and amount of time to rebuild is a better option for me. Brakes stay feeling brand new.
I would open the caliper and replace the seals, replace the pins and renew brake fluids. But cleanning the brake system frecuently is the best thing we can do for our bikes.
Ill be checking the pins from now on after this. On old calipers I take seals out to check for corrosion build up behind the seals pushing them against the pistons, just had 2 pairs of srad calipers completely stuck from this, a grease gun was needed to push them out.
dave, its really time you got a piece of spare metal, that fits inside the slot of the caliper, almost like the thickness of a rotor but thick enough to barely fit inside the caliper then simply pump out all four pistons or one by one if you prefer
Hello, 2 questions. 1st After soapy water, did you clean pistons and all with brake cleaner? 2nd did you put ceramic grease on back of breaking pad and on pistons and on pin sliders?
1. I never used brake cleaner as it make rubber brittle and due to high pressure can get past the seals. 2. I never use grease on the pad backing plate, pins or pistons. That has always been the case especially for track use. It simply makes me more confident that grease will not get onto the brake pad or rotor surface.
It brakes my heart, that people Dont look after their calipers... I mean I blast mine with brake and caliper cleaner at least twice a month...its not like its the most important part other than brains.
A couple months back I had my front brake lock up on me at a track day. I suspect due to a dragging pad. I serviced my brakes a month prior to the trackday. New pads, and fluid as well as a good scrub. I noticed slight uneven wear on the old pads. Indicating a stickey piston. I checked the movement of all my pistons a d they seemed to be fi ne. So i figured that maybe had managed to free out the piston and that i would just keep an eye on it. Should i have taken this as a sign that my calipers needed rebuilding? what did i do wring i terms of maintenance?
You went much further than most people do so all that is to the good. Regular rebuild every 2-3 years is not a bad idea if you have the tools and know how especially if you are aggressive or track your bike a lot. The other part is I am wondering if you changed out the brake lever at all between service and track event? If not, that is moot.
Dave is a legend on motorcycles and have learnt so much from him. If everything was cleaned and fresh in your brake system my bet is you may have over filled the fluid resivor and when fluid came up to temp it expanded enough to engage the pads to disc automatically and building more and more heat until the point of lock up. I only fill brake resivors to the half way point so there is an air gap for fluid expansion.
@@catalystreactionsbw No i didnt do anything to the lever. When i took the pistons out, most of them had a black ring arund them where the seal was. Also this bike is 12 years old. Ive owbed it for 2 years and had never taken the pistons out of the calipers before. So i guess they where overdue.
Why don’t you strip the caliper, remove the pistons, clean and lube the seals and reassemble it? Would’ve been quicker than all the faffing around you just did.
Great question to be best answered by braking force data and cooling capabilities BUT, master cylinder and lines are critical for excellent braking skills that match the caliper capability.
I appreciate the extra bits of info you provide, rather than simply just giving use the basic steps and calling it a day. I always feel more prepared to do a job (and do it well) when I understand the mechanics and any additional info behind the machinery, and you've provided exactly that!
Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge and taking the time to explain all the working parts!!
Thank you for watching and taking the time to comment!
@@catalystreactionsbw yessir! Just (successfully) re-aligned my front end after watching this and a few of your other videos.. appreciate you very much my man, least I can do is comment and let you know, so thanks again!!
So much easier to pre-loosen the pins while calipers are still mounted. ;-)
That works, but I find it very labor intensive. I much prefer to order a caliper rebuild kit (the gaskets and the rubber o-ring that seals the caliper halves) and the pins. Split quickly the caliper, remove the pistons, clean everything (much easier when the caliper is split) and reassemble using caliper mounting grease. Works better in my opinion and it is a bit faster, than trying to juggle each piston half way out.
Also, removing the piston and the old gaskets, allows you to clean the canals where the seals are mounted. In time they get dirty and the pistons don't move so freely anymore.
For my trash/treasure bike (03 CBR954RR) I purchased a second set of calipers, so when a brake job is due, I quickly replace the calipers and rebuild the other set whenever I have time.
Rebuilding the other set when you have time makes sense, however the following brake bleeding is what would make me avoid doing it your way
@@OKMotorcu Well, when it's time for a brake job, I do change the fluid also. Beside, if you don't let air get to the master cylinder, bleeding is a breeze. You should definitely bleed your brakes anyway. Even if no air gets in, periodically replacing the old fluid with fresh fluid is a good idea.
Bleeding isn't difficult if you fill the system bottom-up from the caliper using a syringe
I clean the calipers every few track days and then remove the pistons and replace the piston seals, cleaning in the seal grooves in the caliper body… corrosion and dirt build up behind the seal and bind the brakes, the seals are a square section and work like a spring to retract the pistons very slightly after each brake application to stop binding and rubbing so it’s very important.
Hi Dave and Mr. Williams, thanks for the video. Honestly, I always thought cleaning calipers with a toothbrush was a myth since you can never get to the full piston with a toothbrush, but clearly, that myth is busted. I still clean the calipers, but never really observed an obvious change.
Cleaning the calipers might not yield immediate results, but removing the brake dust from the pistons and calipers prevents corrosion. If that happens you will experience seized pistons and/or pitted calipers... Even aluminum gets corroded in time.
Yep, you don't normally need to get the full extension, if they do go out that far there isn't any stability in the pressure... as most only move a few mm from the new pad to the used pad.
I've fixed a number of brake issues by just cleaning the pistons. It's an easy task once you get the hang of it. Soap and water to wash and brake cleaning as a finisher.
@@denchua Indeed, dirty, near seized, pistons are probably the number one cause for brake problems, followed by the rusty, or worn out pins for the brake pads.
Great series. Been following along on my '08 GSXR 600 and have discovered so many imperfections. Gotta be careful with these GSXR bros.
I usually rebuild my calipers after each season. I used to clean it but the price and amount of time to rebuild is a better option for me. Brakes stay feeling brand new.
Dave "Can I get my finger in the Backside" Moss Tuning.
I would open the caliper and replace the seals, replace the pins and renew brake fluids.
But cleanning the brake system frecuently is the best thing we can do for our bikes.
agree
Ill be checking the pins from now on after this.
On old calipers I take seals out to check for corrosion build up behind the seals pushing them against the pistons, just had 2 pairs of srad calipers completely stuck from this, a grease gun was needed to push them out.
dave, its really time you got a piece of spare metal, that fits inside the slot of the caliper, almost like the thickness of a rotor but thick enough to barely fit inside the caliper
then simply pump out all four pistons or one by one if you prefer
Old pads
But doing it this way gets them out past the normal point of use, cleaning behind where the fluid could be.
I have learned so much from this video. Thank you so much!!
In sure the 16yr old OEM Rubber Brake Lines are fine...no prpblem there.👍
If you clean the pins with light polish and rotate to unused side. Can continue to reuse like new
i popped the pistons out, stocked to find a huge ammount of grey mud, got new seals and now im getting new pins
People generally get a big surprise when old calipers are opened up for the first time!
Hello, 2 questions. 1st After soapy water, did you clean pistons and all with brake cleaner? 2nd did you put ceramic grease on back of breaking pad and on pistons and on pin sliders?
1. I never used brake cleaner as it make rubber brittle and due to high pressure can get past the seals. 2. I never use grease on the pad backing plate, pins or pistons. That has always been the case especially for track use. It simply makes me more confident that grease will not get onto the brake pad or rotor surface.
It brakes my heart, that people Dont look after their calipers... I mean I blast mine with brake and caliper cleaner at least twice a month...its not like its the most important part other than brains.
👍 great info as always
Thanx! 🙂👍
A couple months back I had my front brake lock up on me at a track day. I suspect due to a dragging pad.
I serviced my brakes a month prior to the trackday. New pads, and fluid as well as a good scrub. I noticed slight uneven wear on the old pads. Indicating a stickey piston. I checked the movement of all my pistons a d they seemed to be fi ne. So i figured that maybe had managed to free out the piston and that i would just keep an eye on it.
Should i have taken this as a sign that my calipers needed rebuilding? what did i do wring i terms of maintenance?
You went much further than most people do so all that is to the good. Regular rebuild every 2-3 years is not a bad idea if you have the tools and know how especially if you are aggressive or track your bike a lot. The other part is I am wondering if you changed out the brake lever at all between service and track event? If not, that is moot.
Dave is a legend on motorcycles and have learnt so much from him.
If everything was cleaned and fresh in your brake system my bet is you may have over filled the fluid resivor and when fluid came up to temp it expanded enough to engage the pads to disc automatically and building more and more heat until the point of lock up.
I only fill brake resivors to the half way point so there is an air gap for fluid expansion.
@@catalystreactionsbw No i didnt do anything to the lever.
When i took the pistons out, most of them had a black ring arund them where the seal was. Also this bike is 12 years old. Ive owbed it for 2 years and had never taken the pistons out of the calipers before. So i guess they where overdue.
@@marcusbarnes5929 I dont believe so.but ill keep that in mind in future.
Why don’t you strip the caliper, remove the pistons, clean and lube the seals and reassemble it?
Would’ve been quicker than all the faffing around you just did.
Why not use brake cleaner?
High pressure and can blow stuff into the oil seal. Makes rubber brittle ver time. Doesn't clean like a toothbrush with soapy water.
Tokiko 6 pots are always needing constant maintenance Nissin 4 pots are miles better
No. Rebuild the caliper.
Throw some R6 calipers on it, we know those aren't trash.
does it fit ?
Are Brembo calipers really that much better than the OEM? Has anyone actually tested them with OEM?
Great question to be best answered by braking force data and cooling capabilities BUT, master cylinder and lines are critical for excellent braking skills that match the caliper capability.