Axle (Front Differential) Oil Seal Replacement | Toyota Tacoma T100 4Runner Tundra
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 พ.ย. 2020
- How to replace front axle seal (aka front differential seal) to a 1st generation Toyota Tacoma. This process is very similar to T100, Tundra, 4Runner and other generations!
Tool List:
- socket wrench
- 14mm socket
- slide hammer
- crowbar or large flat head screwdriver
- blue loctite
- ~2 3/4" diameter PVC pipe or equivalent
- floor jack
- passenger side front differential oil seal #90311-47013
- diver side front differential oil seal #90311-47027
*If the video was helpful, remember to give it a "thumbs up" and consider subscribing.*
Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of Engineered Mojo, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. Engineered Mojo assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. Engineered Mojo recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of Engineered Mojo, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Engineered Mojo. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
This is exactly what I was needing. Thanks for showing a way to do this without removing the whole darn axle. You changed this job from a all day affair to a half day affair. (He said probably grossly underestimating the time it will take) Good job!
Haha yeah time to do a job can be a tricky estimate, but this will for sure speed up the process. Thanks for the feedback on the video and glad it was helpful! Good luck on the install
I think this is the most straight-forward and clear video on YT for this job. Thanks for the assist!
Appreciate the feedback! Glad it was clear
This is the most helpful guide I've seen for this process, yet! Thank you, good sir, for putting this out there. I know my DIY work will be better thanks to your guidance!
Appreciate the feedback and glad video was helpful!
I'm going to be swapping out my CV axles next weekend on my 97 Tacoma, and I feel like I should replace the oil seals while I have them out. After 24 years they are probably a bit brittle. Your videos are clear and concise, giving me confidence. Thank you for the videos!
Good idea to change those seals while in there, I learned my lesson hard way on that haha. I'm glad the video was helpful and clear for you :)
Just found ouy i have a leaking seal on my 20 Pro Tacoma. Your video is super informative and to the point, zero fluff. Thank you so much!
Glad it was helpful for you and concise!
Wow and thank you. Found I had a diff seal leak and this vid saved so much time. Had the job done in a hour and a half from start to finish. More vid should be like this.
You got the install done fairly quickly! Glad the video was useful for you
Very well done sir. Great instructional video, straight to the point.
Glad it was helpful and came across as concise
VERY well executed and explained!!! Keep these videos coming!!!
Thanks! Glad the video came across clear!
From the bottom of my heart thank you, you just saved me so much money bro !
That's good to hear 😊 I'm glad the video was helpful and hope your install goes/went well!
Very helpful video! It was very concise and well explained as opposed to other videos on the subject, Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Well that's going to make the job a lot easier. Thanks
Awesome, glad to hear video could be helpful!
Excellent and innovative process. Thank you for sharing this valuable instruction!
Awesome, glad to hear the video was useful and appreciate the time you took to provide feedback!
Great video. But my axle was difficult to put back in. It would not push in, even with as much force as I could apply. Finally I used a hammer and wooden stake as a drift on the small lip around the end of the large diameter section of the axle. It popped right in after a few good whacks.
That's a good work around for that pesky retaining clip that won't bypass, good use of a wooden stake to not damage any components. Adding to my memory index!
super helpful man thanks so much! just replaced my cv axels on my 01 tacoma and saw i was having a bit of seal leak!! easy job compared to replacing it!
Glad this video was helpful in fixing the leak 😀
great video...I second the advice - learned the hard way by bad choice of buying seals from NAPA....USE ONLY OEM SEALS. The NAPA seals slung diff-fluid almost immediately on test drive. Toyota Parts are 2X the $ but once installed shaft/diff interface is running dripless.... mission accomplished. again - great video!!!
Glad to hear the video was helpful and can't beat oem quality especially when considering Toyota's track record of picking quality manufacturers for their products
Well done. Good detailed video
Appreciate the feedback!
Ayee thanks man. Bout to do this this weekend
Good luck! Hope it turns out well for you
Thanks for the video and good info!
Glad the video was helpful, appreciate the time you took to share a comment!
Great video! Thanks
No problem, hope it was helpful!
Awesome job
Appreciate the feedback! Hope video was helpful
Thanks for making a video 👍
Glad to be of assistance!
Great video!! Thx very much. Cheers!! 🍺 new subscriber!!
I am glad you found the video helpful! Appreciate the time you took to comment and subscribe :)
Great job
Thanks for the video feedback!
Goodlookin out on the FYURE 🔥 Video My Ninjah 🥷🏾💪🏾🙏🏾
Always here to serve my youtube fam! Glad video was helpful
Awesome thank you!
No problem! Glad the video was of service!
Any idea what the torque specs are for replacing the four bolt at the wheel? And do you need to fully drain the differential oil before you pull the axle to get to the seal?
Thanks
No problem! Thanks for taking the time to comment 🙂
good vid.
Thanks for the video feedback!
Nice DYI video!! Subscribed!!! Did you have to redo the alignment after that? Thanks!
Appreciate the feedback and glad video is helpful! I don't need an alignment thankfully given I didn't mess with any of the tie rods or suspension pieces needing adjustment
Thanks for this great video! Question -- the part number above for driver side front differential seal brings up an output shaft seal. I'm assuming that is a different part? Do you happen to have the part number for the correct driver's side front differential seal if there is indeed an error above?
That's the correct part! Good luck on the install 😀
So, I saw you reused the cv axle even though the metal ring has broken off/loose. I thought I have to replace the whole thing once the ring is loose. Thank you. And how would I know the cv axle is all the way in if I don't hit it back in like when it is not attached to the rotor. TIA
The metal snap ring is a bit loose from factory, it does rotate somewhat freely around the axle end to an extent. You know the axle is seated all the way in when you barely see any gap between axle face and differential case. You won't be able to pull axle out easily anymore
That was sweet. Thx for sharing that technique 👌
Recently Sub'd 🏜
Glad the video was helpful, appreciate the sub!
Thanks for the video and the close up shot of the seal bore. I did this job almost 2 years/5k miles ago on my 06 Taco just the same way you've detailed here, and now all of a sudden passenger side is leaking. Long story short I'm going to be doing it again. (..Still not sure why an OEM Toyota seal would fail at such low mileage..?) Wondering what is your opinion of using Toyota FIPG between the outer surface of the seal and the bore? Would it help, would it hurt or would it even matter? Thanks for any information & Cheers!✌
Hopefully this next go at the fix last longer for you. I'm not sure if using Toyota sealant would be helpful or not. Its not a pressure seal like a valve cover, the FIPG may squeeze out the back / into the bearings as the seal is pressed in. I'd prob stick with the factory method and hope I had a better quality seal this time haha
@@EngineeredMojo Thanks for the info! I'll probably leave the FIPG out and hope for the best. Parts quality in the US market sure has tanked in the last 10 years.
@@it4dps that's the truth, I know I've felt that way about Honda replacement parts that are not from Japan manufacturers
Hope that works with my 2008 tundra wow way easier than pulling hub and axel out.
Give it a try, if it has the 3.4l v6 ot should be similar process!
Was it the same process? I also have an 08 tundra with a leaking seal.
Seems like there is an added claw piece that attaches to the end of the slide hammer. So, couldn't see how you seated that claw end piece of the slide hammer into the seal area before operating the slide hammer action itself.
The claw just grasps the seal like a finger, you can do a practice run on the replacement seal to see how it sits
Is it a good idea to actually replace the diff oil after doing this repair?
While you are under there it wouldn't hurt. I had just changed mine...which is why I noticed the leak haha...so typically if you have a leak anyway you'd want to change the differential fluid to make sure it's at the proper level
Are the seals left and right specific i can only find the dif side cab i use the same seal for the right?
At least for 2003 tacoma they are the same, but calling a toyota dealership parts department can get you parts numbers for both and compare!
so noob question here, did a bunch of gear oil come out when you removed the axle? Did you have to add any back in? I know there's oil in there as it is leaking oil but i'm unsure if you can end up draining all your differential oil from doing this.
No not much oil should come out, the level of oil should be right at or below the level of the axle opening. Additionally, with the truck jacked up in the front you'll naturally have a tilt of fluid away from the opening 🙂
Would this be the same process for the other, driver side? Thanks!
It sure would, similar process!
SEAL PULLER LOT OF WORK ALIGNIGING i JUST USE A 5/8 TO 3/4 WRENCH AND STICK THE OPEN END AND CATCH THE BACK SIDE OF SEAL AND PRY COMES RIGHT OUT.
This is a good tip I'll have to try! Thanks for sharing :)
Would it be different for 4x4, there is a boot covering it.?
No different, my truck is a 4x4 that's what I was working on in the video :)
thanks bro, this apply to 3rd gen 4runnsr?
It should be a similar process, but with different part numbers of course. Glad the video could be of use!
Does anyone have the seal part number ?
Also I need to replace the bearing.
Help please..
All the part numbers used are in the video description text :)
Did you disconnect the outer tie rod from the steering knuckle?
Not at all, only removed 4 bolts shown in video
@@EngineeredMojo Thanks for the quick reply. The reason I asked is that just prior to 2:00, the tie rod appears to move with the hub, but when you really start wiggling the hub, the tie rod isn’t moving…I just don’t understand how that much movement is possible with the tie rod attached. Maybe it will make more sense when I try it myself. Just like to understand what I’m getting into before I get too deep.
@@amfarrar oh yea it was a good question, I guess when I think about it the majority of movement is the rotation of the axle at the hub and at the upper hub connection.
Ive got an 86 SR5...is this the same way to get the seal out as this is?
The slide hammer is a universal tool that applies over many different years, models, and manufacturers. Should work well for your seal, wouldn't hurt to try. You can always rent one for free if you live near an Autozone or Advance Auto to give it a try
I mean, mine is an 86, and the front end looks a little different. Would this trick you do, that makes it easier, work with mine?
@cliffordanderson6066 oh I see what you mean now. I am not sure, it may work. You can always try it fairly easily given all the steps leading up to axle removal would be similar
What do ya mean by tap it back in at 6:19, I’m having trouble getting it to go in that last 3/4 inch, thx!
You kind have to use your body weight to get the locking past the groove, it'll take a few nudges to seat the axle correctly so don't worry if you can't get it in right away 😉 you can try to tap other end (axle nut end) with a heavy rubber mallet as well
You’re amazing thx for such a quick reply!
Do ya need to worry about using too much force to get it back in? Also does alignment matter? Thank you!
@@samuelmennear333 it can only go in at one angle unless you are strong enough to bend the steel input shaft 😁 I won't take excessive force, just firm pressure and a bit of back and forth to get axle seated
Back in now! Seriously thank you so much this video is gold and your help in the comments is incredible 🙂
Did you end up replacing the lock ring on the CV axle or reuse the existing one?
The new axle had a new lock ring installed
@@EngineeredMojo I replaced my CV axles about 1500 miles ago. I have a drivers side seal that I need to replace and I’m trying to decide if I also need to replace the snap ring on the CV axle. What would you do?
@@gummybear916 oh I see what you mean, no in that case I don't replace snap ring. If I don't change my axle, I just reuse the original snap ring
@@EngineeredMojo gotcha, that will save me a trip to the parts department. I still need to pick up some PVC pipe from the hardware store to tap the seal in. Thanks for the replies!
@@gummybear916 no problem, hope the install goes well :)
Which side of the seal face out and which side face inside
It's hard to describe, but you can see the orientation in the video, the solid side is out. You can also Google the inage of the seal as well for a good view of orientation
@@EngineeredMojo thank you. I figured it out with an assist from a mechanic friend. I appreciate you getting back to me.
Hi bro, How much did you charge for that job? It's my first time doing a job like that and I don't know how much to charge, thanks
It was for my own truck so Free.99 :)
Sir I would recomend telling you audience not to score the housing when remove the seal or it will continue to fail and or leak . Thanks
Ahh that's a good reminder!
Man I'm at the hardware store and I can't find two and three quarters are you sure you didn't mean one and three quarters they don't even make PVC pipe attachments that big at home Depot
Oh yea it's 2 3/4", you can measure the axle input diameter on the transmission housing. You'll see its larger than 2", or just measure the seal itself if you already bought it. Hope that helps!
Figured it out the 2 inch at the store when you measure it is actually two and three quarters