Never in all my time watching repair videos have I see one as excellent as this. Truthfully I am still blown away by it. Every step was crystal clear. Lighting and quality of video was the best I have ever seen PERIOD! The tips throughout the entire video were beyond helpful. The quick recap of what he did at the end such as filling the diff back up, etc just made the video fully complete. Lastly, the torque settings displayed popped out really nice and the font was perfect. I normally don’t comment on repair videos...if they are good I will give a thumbs up. For a video of this amazing quality I took the time to comment, gave it a thumbs up, saved video in my favorites and subscribed to the channel. The attention given to every detail of this video allows me to easily state this is the best repair video I’ve ever seen and I’ve watched endless numbers of video. This one has set the standard for which I will judge all other repair videos...yes it is that good. Thank you for making this video it is a true gem. Wow!!!
Dude, all I have to say is WOW. I really appreciate the kind words. Comments like this make all this hard work worth it. Cheers! Thanks for watching and supporting the channel!
Yessirree, I do my best to be as thorough as possible with this information and installation. Please share my vids with your tacoma friends and help my channel grow!
Way back b4 they had the needle bearings in all the T100's, they had the brass bushings but most didn't have needle bearing....it took me forever to convince Toyota that mine had it and get it ordered. They thought mine didn't have needle bearing. Now, 8yrs plus they have a bushing that's better than the needle bearing??.....lol. I bought in 95 and still have it but this was a tough job!
Once again your repair video saved me! Struggled for over an hour and still couldn't seat the CV. Two mins after watching video, it's in and I'm putting it back together. I hope you never stop working on your second gen!
Yes, this is a very good video to watch showing the removal of the needle bearing. I'm not sure if I would recommend the use of a pickle fork on the tie rod end. It works but there are other tools that are less likely to cause damage to the seal. The same can be said about using a pickle fork to remove the CV shaft. But, you efficiently got the job done and I greatly appreciate the video! Thanks
Dude your videos have been SPOT ON for my tacoma experience. You have a video for everything that has given me trouble, and i always reference your channel when doing a project now
Great video. You kind of have a rust bucket truck, which is pretty typical for most people. It's a lot more interesting because that's how the real world works, not just showroom trucks getting an aftermarket lift kit when they have 3000 miles on the odometer, and only being driven to Costco on weekends.
Lol thanks for the compliment. Reality is definitely different from the high bankroll shows about car upgrades. This channel has been a passion project, self funded and now I'm working on it as a lifestyle
Bro. Just wanted to thank you for this (and all your videos). I just got done doing this with no prior experience apart from oil changes and brake jobs. It was a bit nerve wracking but your video was by far the most helpful of all the ones I've watched. I appreciate all of your hard work that goes into making these videos!
Great vid, KFlo. Thanks for the best description and images of the ECGS bushing upgrade along with all the helpful socket sizes and torque specs. As always, your videos set the standard. Love it. Thank you.
I put the bearing in like a pro with the help of your video. It went so smooth that I was shocked. The new bearing took away the sound/vibration completely. My 2015 Tacoma drives like a Cadillac now. Super big thanks for making a detailed video.
LOL Thanks for watching and supporting the channel! I do have the dobinsons suspension setup now and you can check out my latest walk around video. Although, feel free to donate to the channel's beer fund to help fund future DIY videos! cheers bud 🍻🍻
Solid video. Ordered the removal tool from ECGS and it wouldn’t seat in behind the needle bearing had to tap it in and that caused the back side of the needle bearing to shatter...not a big deal had to use a magnet to get out all the bits...aside from that really great install video. Thanks again.
Thanks KFLo. I thought I'd need to drop my whole diff out of my FJ Cruiser before I saw your video. And the tip on purchasing the needle roller bearing removal tool is a gem. Thanks.
I used a 4"x1/2" bolt, 1/2 and a 7/8" washer which I ground down 1/8" on opposing sides, I slid the bolt head 1/2", 7/8" washers thru the old bearing then I added a piece of flat bar 4"x2"x3/8" with a 1/2" hole, 3 1/2 jam nuts, 1 to pull the bearing out and 2 locked on the end to hold the bolt from turning. cost me $4.64 Canadian. note: if the o.d. of the 7/8" washer is a little smaller then the bearing just peen the unground sides to expand to the o.d. of the bearing.
Your videos are awesome man! I saw a Vermont plate there too. Representin'! thanks for all the effort you put into these videos. I've saved a lot of money.
Awesome attention to detail, especially the bushing install. Thanks for the excellent videography and explanations. (Now I'm just going to hire someone to to this. 😂)
Heard several methods on installing the seal. I installed seal even to outerlip such as you did but leaking gear oil. I've seen a few people push in about 1/8 further in.
Great video. I’m looking to lift my ‘21 Tacoma 2” in the front and 1” in the back to level it out. Would this needle bearing switch to the bushing be necessary when lifting? I have 55k miles on the truck. Thanks.
Excellent video. I have replaced the same needle bearing on my FJ cruiser because it had a play, but I have the problem that when doing the test in motion, it leaks oil because the CV axle sticks out a little, what could be the reason? ?
Still another .. gracias Yours are the best out there.. Question..can you please post up the part numbers and where you purchased them for the 2 seals, the one for the clamshell and the one for back of bearing on knuckle..
I've updated the description but here they are copied and pasted: Seal part numbers, Drivers side Toyota# 90311-47027 Passenger side Toyota# 90311-47013 Hub Side Seals: 90316A0001
@@KFloTacoma Yes replaced the seal the seal ,new axle shaft. It was not an OEM Toyota seal, it was a Duralast seal. Having Small vibration around 20 mph
Did you inspect the diff's mounting surface prior to installing the new seal? Sometimes, during removal that portion can get scratched and the oil can weep through in between the scratched surface as well as the metal part of the seal. Is it leaking a lot? Did you also try to match the seal against the axle before installing it onto the diff? Just to double check that the seal seats properly against the diff.
@@KFloTacoma Cleaned the surface. Leaking a lot when I drive. I also seen that if the breather tubes are clogged it could cause pressure to build up and force it out of the seals. When I installed the seal the last time it did not leak until I drove the vehicle for quite a distance for the first time since install, then it started to leak ?
All your videos are great and the videography is awesome, a lot of the other ECGS clamshell bushing install videos give a terrible vantage point. Question for ya, it looked like you hammered the bushing past flush, about 1/8 of an inch, is that the case or just the video angle. Thanks again.
that's just the case with the video angle and how you're looking at it. If you're looking at the right side of the bushing pausing at 9:20, you'll probably see the debris in the groove between the bushing and the casing - you can kind see that those two surfaces are flush.
could the bearing be the reason my axle has up and down movement when i grab and move it? looks easy enough to do. i would just remove upper control arm bold and tie rod to do axel.
Great videos thank you for all the details! 👍🏼 I just installed the new bushing new seals and cv axle. There’s a little in and out play from the cv axle is that normal?
Do you only put it on the driver side? Is there another one on the passenger side? All the videos I’ve seen including yours only do the drivers side. Is there a reason why?
Have new 2022 4Runner with 300 miles on it that has vibration between 40-50, noise goes away in 4wd. Taken to dealership twice, once the noise was not noticeable, 2nd time they heard the noise and did several tests which came back inclusive so they said it was normal, to take it home , drive it, bring back if gets worse. They drained front differential and no metal was found in oil. Used electronic listening device, checked brakes and tires and maybe other tests. If you research it it seems to be bad front drivers side needle bearing. I plan on driving it few more days or weeks then if noise still noticeable, I taking it back to dealership. Any thoughts?
Great video only problem I have is putting the torch to the wheel bearing. Time will tell if the seals burned up and allow water into the sealed assembly which in turn washes out the grease and leads to bearing failure.
Probably the most digestible video of this job. Great work. I do wonder if you can do the entire job without removing the CV from the hub side. Seems that if you removed everything but the cap and 35mm nut, you could hammer/pry out the CV from the diff and then set it the assembly just out of the way (on a jack stand ;)). Also those alignment tabs are not looking too healthy. 9:02
Thanks for the kind words! On your thought: Yea, I agree. I think you probably can do it without having to remove the hub side. Although, since I was replacing the seals on the diff side, then may as well replace the seals on the hub side. Yea, regarding the alignment tabs - I did weld new tabs on there so they're more than healthy at this point!
Can you explain why it is only a driver's side issue?? TY On my truck, I am feeling a bit of a vibration around 50 mpg but not bad and goes away above or below that speed range. This week I noticed a sound of vibration at start up. Seems like its coming from around my feet when i'm turning it over. (turning on the truck) I can feel play on the driver's side CV connection to the diff, and just a little bit of play on the passenger's side.... so I am fairly certain this is my current issue. Truck has 237k miles, still original clutch, (I haven't done the ClutchMasters Hydro bearing fix yet, but that part is now on my shelf waiting for the clutch to finally fail.....) DCSB, 4x4. For a year and a half it has Bilstein 5100s with an OME883 springs and an AAL in the rear that were installed when Toyota replaced the frame, summer 2018. So it's lifted maybe 1-2 inches. Stock tires for now, but I did just buy new wheels and am saving up for larger tires... 305's or similar.
i know that the driver side cv axle is connected directly to the spider gear, while the passenger side has the actuator collar and assembly and then goes into another shaft which then goes into the passenger CV axle. Toyota may have a different tolerance stack in the assembly of the passenger side diff. I can't really give a definitive answer unless I break down that front diff completely and inspect the design. Yup, it sounds like the issue you are having is indeed the needle bearing. Good luck brother!
@@KFloTacoma When buying my bushing last week, I asked ECGS and I thought they implied that the other (passenger) side is a different type of bearing, maybe Ball type vs the axial Pin roller style of the Drivers side - also the overall Clamshell unit is Asymmetrical and each side experiences different loading.... I'm going to try my Bushing install next weekend.... fingers crossed that I can drive away from my drive way when done!
Just FYI, it appears that the amazon link to the Diver side Diff Axle Seal is wrong. It is actually for the passenger side. I just ordered one for the driver side and it was wrong.
Yes it will. Just ordered mine. When on the ECGS site you can either pick from a 7.5" clamshell (3rd gen 4runner) or 8'' clamshell (4th and 5th gen 4runner. You also have to give them your year make and model when ordering so Im positive they sort that out.
Hi, excuse my ignorance but, why it's recommended to replace that ring? Should be a good idea to do it on all lifted vehicles or justo tacos or to any car? Thanks for your great video and explanation! 👌👌😎
The needle bearimg noise goes away when you put it in 4wd. Although if it is worn out really bad then it can be the cause of the noise as well. Is the growling noise rhythmic/cyclic?
@@KFloTacoma Noise been going for about 6 months now, hooked ears up to front diff and that's where growl is coming from. It is cyclical and changes frequency as you get faster/slower. Usually starts about ~20 mph. 2 separate mechanics recommended front diff replacement, your option would save me a metric ton if it were the fix you said.
If you're talking about the rear axle shims, both mods are independent and it doesn't really matter which one you do first. This mod does take longer than the axle shims.
@@juspat2 yes I did... it turned out that my mechanic changing the transmission fluid caused the vibrations. I found this by going to a transmission shop. They pointed me to some history of a “shudder” problem. Wanted 4K to replace my trans with a remanufactured trans... did some research and others with shudder problems just added “shudder fix” to the fluid. So I bough some on Amazon and a pump to pump it in. I followed the directions for adding shudder fix... Which is not just “add and go” you have to run the engine cycle between P R D... then drain excess. Bottom line it cost me about $30 and some time. Shudder is totally gone.
Do you have part numbers for the CV Axle Bearings that have the flanges like the ones you used? The seals available are difficult to keep in place and leak
@@KFloTacoma ok thx man, your videos are really helpful and saving me a ton of money by doing it my self and following ur guidance. Correct me if I’m wrong, here’s my shopping cart to do a lift the proper way so far imo: dobinsons full 2” lift kit (coil overs, shocks, new leaf packs, I bolts, ECGS bushing, front diff drop kit, SPC upper control arms Let me know if I’m missing anything else :) I wanna do it once so I don’t have to go back after vibrations if they occur
I would recommend watching my driveline vibrations video. You have most of the necessary parts covered though. You may need the carrier bearing drop / angled shim kit which can be installed later. You can watch the said video for more information. What I bolts are you referring to? Also if you're planning to put on 33" tires you'll need to do the cmc mod
Just till the fill hole starts overflowing, I have a whole video on that so check that out on this channel! thanks for watching and supporting the channel!
Hello the seal that you took out after you pull out the CV shaft I got that part number. What about the part number that you pull out with your finger? Please let me know. Thank you.
Another question . What happens if the metal flange on the axle is a bit bent , the flange that is on the end going into the front differential. Mine is a bit bent dont know how it probably happened after replacing the needle bearing and i have a very minor leak . Already replaced the acle seal but still have a leak
That flange acts like a dust cover to keep the seals clear from larger debris. So the leak is coming from that area? did you also replace the CV axle or did you reuse the old one? if reused, did you check the bearing surface on that axle for scratches and deep gouges?
Yea thats the area where its leaking from , i did replace the axle as well since the cv boot was torn . Very minor leak but the thing i noticed was that the flange was a bit bent not much
The only way to really validate would be to pull out the axle, if it's a small enough leak then it's your call wether or not it's worth pulling out and inspecting. There is a way to push out the CVs without damaging the flange - you can watch the regearing series in this channel
@@KFloTacoma i think its the axle i just went under the truck and compared the new one to the other side which is still oem and the oem has zero play and the new one has alot of play up and down and side to side . But its in all the way . Why is that ?
I'm not really understanding the question - I'm going to need you to reword. If you watch the video, the axle seals can only go one way at the hub end as well as the differential end.
Does all this apply to a 2013 tacoma? I pulled everything out and simply do not see the pin bearings. Is the pin bearing only on the driver side. I'm asking as I only removed the passenger side.
Awesome vid! Subscribed. I just have a question: My 2011 tacoma 4x4 is having a growling noise between 40-45mph, but turning the wheel doesn't make a difference in the sound. I replaced both front complete hubs, and the sound is exactly the same. The drivers side CV axle at the diff is very very loose compared to the passenger side. Putting it in 4wd makes no difference in the sound, so that's why I'm wondering if I should just replace the cv axles or the bushing as well. It has just under 90K. I appreciate your reply!
How bad is the growling noise? If it's rythmic/cyclic then it's probably the needle bearing. In that case, it would be good to replace the needle bearing. If the CV axle is already loose, then, might as well add that in as a replacement. It's not much more in term of parts cost and since you will be pulling out the needle bearing anyway, then it would be worth it.
What does it mean if my wheel bearing doesn’t rotate freely? Replaced both front ones and the driver side spins fine but passenger side gets hung up and takes some effort to get past
Never in all my time watching repair videos have I see one as excellent as this. Truthfully I am still blown away by it. Every step was crystal clear. Lighting and quality of video was the best I have ever seen PERIOD! The tips throughout the entire video were beyond helpful. The quick recap of what he did at the end such as filling the diff back up, etc just made the video fully complete. Lastly, the torque settings displayed popped out really nice and the font was perfect. I normally don’t comment on repair videos...if they are good I will give a thumbs up. For a video of this amazing quality I took the time to comment, gave it a thumbs up, saved video in my favorites and subscribed to the channel. The attention given to every detail of this video allows me to easily state this is the best repair video I’ve ever seen and I’ve watched endless numbers of video. This one has set the standard for which I will judge all other repair videos...yes it is that good. Thank you for making this video it is a true gem. Wow!!!
Dude, all I have to say is WOW. I really appreciate the kind words. Comments like this make all this hard work worth it. Cheers! Thanks for watching and supporting the channel!
Finally a video showing the comparison of the play of the bearing vs the bushing. All other vids only showed removal and instal
Yessirree, I do my best to be as thorough as possible with this information and installation. Please share my vids with your tacoma friends and help my channel grow!
After watching this I now understand why they want $285 to replace it. Worth it. I appreciate you tackling it yourself.
Yea, I went more thoroughly w/ fluids and seal replacements too. It is a lot of work though regardless
Way back b4 they had the needle bearings in all the T100's, they had the brass bushings but most didn't have needle bearing....it took me forever to convince Toyota that mine had it and get it ordered. They thought mine didn't have needle bearing. Now, 8yrs plus they have a bushing that's better than the needle bearing??.....lol. I bought in 95 and still have it but this was a tough job!
only $285.. thats a steal lmao
Once again your repair video saved me! Struggled for over an hour and still couldn't seat the CV. Two mins after watching video, it's in and I'm putting it back together. I hope you never stop working on your second gen!
Great to hear! Thanks for watching and supporting the channel, Mark! Hopefully you get that overhead Molle Panel installed soon! LOL
Genius. With the wood inside the socket. You just saved my butt. nice informative vid.
Thanks for watching!
What size socket?
Yes, this is a very good video to watch showing the removal of the needle bearing. I'm not sure if I would recommend the use of a pickle fork on the tie rod end. It works but there are other tools that are less likely to cause damage to the seal. The same can be said about using a pickle fork to remove the CV shaft. But, you efficiently got the job done and I greatly appreciate the video! Thanks
Dude your videos have been SPOT ON for my tacoma experience. You have a video for everything that has given me trouble, and i always reference your channel when doing a project now
Awesome! I'm glad my videos help, thanks for watching and supporting the channel!
Great video. You kind of have a rust bucket truck, which is pretty typical for most people. It's a lot more interesting because that's how the real world works, not just showroom trucks getting an aftermarket lift kit when they have 3000 miles on the odometer, and only being driven to Costco on weekends.
Lol thanks for the compliment. Reality is definitely different from the high bankroll shows about car upgrades. This channel has been a passion project, self funded and now I'm working on it as a lifestyle
Bro. Just wanted to thank you for this (and all your videos). I just got done doing this with no prior experience apart from oil changes and brake jobs. It was a bit nerve wracking but your video was by far the most helpful of all the ones I've watched. I appreciate all of your hard work that goes into making these videos!
Awesome! Glad to help. Thanks for watching and supporting the channel!
I liked all the tips and tricks with jack stands and rachet straps. I will add those to my arsenal as well.
Great vid, KFlo. Thanks for the best description and images of the ECGS bushing upgrade along with all the helpful socket sizes and torque specs. As always, your videos set the standard. Love it. Thank you.
I appreciate the feedback man! Good luck with the install!
I put the bearing in like a pro with the help of your video. It went so smooth that I was shocked. The new bearing took away the sound/vibration completely. My 2015 Tacoma drives like a Cadillac now. Super big thanks for making a detailed video.
Did my own using this video. Was a great help. Props.
I'm glad it worked out! please help my channel grow by sharing my vids with your tacoma friends!
This guy knows his shit! we should all chip in and get this guy some new shocks.
LOL Thanks for watching and supporting the channel! I do have the dobinsons suspension setup now and you can check out my latest walk around video. Although, feel free to donate to the channel's beer fund to help fund future DIY videos! cheers bud 🍻🍻
Solid video. Ordered the removal tool from ECGS and it wouldn’t seat in behind the needle bearing had to tap it in and that caused the back side of the needle bearing to shatter...not a big deal had to use a magnet to get out all the bits...aside from that really great install video. Thanks again.
I'm glad the video helped. I think that tool is hand made so there's some inconsistencies in the build there
Excellent write up. Definitely gonna tackle this soon. Thanks for taking the time to do this. *thumbs up*
Thanks for the feedback dude, best of luck with the install!
Awesome video, thanks for being so honest, I'm a beginner that will leave this to the professionals
this job is definitely not a beginner task. GL though
Installing now, very useful videos overall. 😊
Probably best 2nd gen videos out there.
Awesome! Thanks for watching and supporting the channel!
Thanks KFLo. I thought I'd need to drop my whole diff out of my FJ Cruiser before I saw your video. And the tip on purchasing the needle roller bearing removal tool is a gem. Thanks.
Glad I could help! please help my channel grow by sharing my vids w your Yota Friends!
best video i've seen on this job. great detail!
Thanks dude. Please share my vids with your Tacoma friends to help my channel grow
Just for your fyi if you just jack the drivers side high you wont lose fluid
Dude, that is a really good idea!
I used a 4"x1/2" bolt, 1/2 and a 7/8" washer which I ground down 1/8" on opposing sides, I slid the bolt head 1/2", 7/8" washers thru the old bearing then I added a piece of flat bar 4"x2"x3/8" with a 1/2" hole, 3 1/2 jam nuts, 1 to pull the bearing out and 2 locked on the end to hold the bolt from turning. cost me $4.64 Canadian. note: if the o.d. of the 7/8" washer is a little smaller then the bearing just peen the unground sides to expand to the o.d. of the bearing.
Thats a great idea 👍
@@KFloTacoma Thanks! Your video was very helpful!
You a badass KFlo! Keep up the good stuff!! Now I need to do mine 2011 taco.
Awesome, thank you for watching and supporting the channel!
Your videos are awesome man! I saw a Vermont plate there too. Representin'! thanks for all the effort you put into these videos. I've saved a lot of money.
Awesome! Thank you! I'm glad to have helped! That's a bit of a long story on that vermont plate lol
Awesome attention to detail, especially the bushing install. Thanks for the excellent videography and explanations.
(Now I'm just going to hire someone to to this. 😂)
Used this video to pull my spindles off, thanks for the info, it really helped.
Glad it helped! Please share my channel with your tacoma friends!
You’re awesome real master mechanic
Thanks for watching and supporting the channel, Carlos!
Thanks for the video man! It helped me a lot as I did this repair in my driveway this weekend.
Awesome! I'm glad it worked out. Thanks for watching and supporting the channel!
Great video with really clear instructions. Thank you for making this!
You're very welcome! I'm glad you enjoyed it!
Solid video w practical advice KFlo. Subscribed!
Thanks for the support brother!
Lol I used a homemade removal tool for mine since I’m cheap 🤣. No more vibration or leaks now though with a 2” front lift
What did your homemade tool look like? I'm having such a pain using a slide hammer
Excellent video!!!! Exactly what I needed to know!!!
So when can I expect you to come fix mine lol. Great video. 👍
HAHA thanks for watching and supporting the channel
thumbs up for the gold finger clip
Yesh, toight like a toiger
Nicely done video. Subscribed.
Awesome! Thanks for watching and supporting the channel!
Pro Tip, remove the bump-stop with a pipe wrench to get a lot more room to swing when driving the bushing home.
Great idea!
Heard several methods on installing the seal. I installed seal even to outerlip such as you did but leaking gear oil. I've seen a few people push in about 1/8 further in.
Great video. I’m looking to lift my ‘21 Tacoma 2” in the front and 1” in the back to level it out. Would this needle bearing switch to the bushing be necessary when lifting? I have 55k miles on the truck. Thanks.
Awesome videos bro very educational and very helpful 🙏
Awesome! Thanks for watching and supporting the channel! You'll enjoy my newest videos as well! Cheers!
Excellent video. I have replaced the same needle bearing on my FJ cruiser because it had a play, but I have the problem that when doing the test in motion, it leaks oil because the CV axle sticks out a little, what could be the reason? ?
Still another .. gracias
Yours are the best out there..
Question..can you please post up the part numbers and where you purchased them for the 2 seals, the one for the clamshell and the one for back of bearing on knuckle..
I've updated the description but here they are copied and pasted:
Seal part numbers,
Drivers side
Toyota# 90311-47027
Passenger side
Toyota# 90311-47013
Hub Side Seals:
90316A0001
Replaced needle bearing with ECGS bushing no problem. Having trouble with it leaking
Did you replace the seals?
@@KFloTacoma Yes replaced the seal the seal ,new axle shaft. It was not an OEM Toyota seal, it was a Duralast seal. Having Small vibration around 20 mph
Did you inspect the diff's mounting surface prior to installing the new seal? Sometimes, during removal that portion can get scratched and the oil can weep through in between the scratched surface as well as the metal part of the seal. Is it leaking a lot? Did you also try to match the seal against the axle before installing it onto the diff? Just to double check that the seal seats properly against the diff.
@@KFloTacoma Cleaned the surface. Leaking a lot when I drive. I also seen that if the breather tubes are clogged it could cause pressure to build up and force it out of the seals. When I installed the seal the last time it did not leak until I drove the vehicle for quite a distance for the first time since install, then it started to leak ?
Yea I agree that the breather tube could be the case there. The heat from driving can definitely cause back pressure
Going to do this in a month. Thank you so much!
Yessir, take your time when you do it and good luck!
How did it go? Planning on doing tis as well soon.
Great video man !!!! Like always hey its just the driver side needs to remplace?
Yes just driver's side
So what about the passenger side?
Great video!! Keep these Tacoma videos coming!👍
Glad you enjoyed this video. Please share with your Tacoma friends and help my channel grow!
All your videos are great and the videography is awesome, a lot of the other ECGS clamshell bushing install videos give a terrible vantage point. Question for ya, it looked like you hammered the bushing past flush, about 1/8 of an inch, is that the case or just the video angle. Thanks again.
that's just the case with the video angle and how you're looking at it. If you're looking at the right side of the bushing pausing at 9:20, you'll probably see the debris in the groove between the bushing and the casing - you can kind see that those two surfaces are flush.
Awesome, thanks again! Keep the great video’s coming!
What about passenger side u also need to the needle bushing
You only need the driver side
could the bearing be the reason my axle has up and down movement when i grab and move it? looks easy enough to do. i would just remove upper control arm bold and tie rod to do axel.
Nicely done
Thank you! You should check out some of my later videos! Cheers!
You’re awesome dude awesome 👏
Thanks for watching and supporting the channel!
Great videos thank you for all the details! 👍🏼 I just installed the new bushing new seals and cv axle. There’s a little in and out play from the cv axle is that normal?
Great channel and vid bro! 💪
Thanks for the kind words bro!
I want to know if it is the same for the passenger side because I have not seen a video that they do the left side thank
You only need the driver side. It's a stub shaft on the passenger side which doesn't have the issue
Excellent video
Glad you liked it!
Great video planning on doing the same on my ford escape. Can you please tell me when do you know the bushing is pushed all the way in?
The two front surfaces just needed to be parallel
Thank
Thanks for watching and supporting the channel!
Do you only put it on the driver side? Is there another one on the passenger side? All the videos I’ve seen including yours only do the drivers side. Is there a reason why?
Have new 2022 4Runner with 300 miles on it that has vibration between 40-50, noise goes away in 4wd. Taken to dealership twice, once the noise was not noticeable, 2nd time they heard the noise and did several tests which came back inclusive so they said it was normal, to take it home , drive it, bring back if gets worse. They drained front differential and no metal was found in oil. Used electronic listening device, checked brakes and tires and maybe other tests. If you research it it seems to be bad front drivers side needle bearing. I plan on driving it few more days or weeks then if noise still noticeable, I taking it back to dealership. Any thoughts?
Nice job man 👍
Thanks for the visit!
Great video only problem I have is putting the torch to the wheel bearing. Time will tell if the seals burned up and allow water into the sealed assembly which in turn washes out the grease and leads to bearing failure.
Can you do this with the sway bar on but remove the linkage?
Great video🤙🏽
Thank you! 😃
Maybe a dumb question but did you replace the driver and passenger bearings? Seen a few videos on these ECS replacements and can’t find any info
Probably the most digestible video of this job. Great work. I do wonder if you can do the entire job without removing the CV from the hub side. Seems that if you removed everything but the cap and 35mm nut, you could hammer/pry out the CV from the diff and then set it the assembly just out of the way (on a jack stand ;)).
Also those alignment tabs are not looking too healthy. 9:02
Thanks for the kind words!
On your thought: Yea, I agree. I think you probably can do it without having to remove the hub side. Although, since I was replacing the seals on the diff side, then may as well replace the seals on the hub side.
Yea, regarding the alignment tabs - I did weld new tabs on there so they're more than healthy at this point!
Does this apply to 20!8 tacoma as well? I see 2005-2017 everywhere on line
Hi. Do you have any thoughts on the bushing that nitro sells? Thanks
I haven't experience the product personally but it looks like it's just copying the ECGS bushing design
@@KFloTacoma
Thanks
Can you explain why it is only a driver's side issue?? TY
On my truck, I am feeling a bit of a vibration around 50 mpg but not bad and goes away above or below that speed range. This week I noticed a sound of vibration at start up. Seems like its coming from around my feet when i'm turning it over. (turning on the truck)
I can feel play on the driver's side CV connection to the diff, and just a little bit of play on the passenger's side.... so I am fairly certain this is my current issue.
Truck has 237k miles, still original clutch, (I haven't done the ClutchMasters Hydro bearing fix yet, but that part is now on my shelf waiting for the clutch to finally fail.....) DCSB, 4x4.
For a year and a half it has Bilstein 5100s with an OME883 springs and an AAL in the rear that were installed when Toyota replaced the frame, summer 2018. So it's lifted maybe 1-2 inches. Stock tires for now, but I did just buy new wheels and am saving up for larger tires... 305's or similar.
i know that the driver side cv axle is connected directly to the spider gear, while the passenger side has the actuator collar and assembly and then goes into another shaft which then goes into the passenger CV axle. Toyota may have a different tolerance stack in the assembly of the passenger side diff. I can't really give a definitive answer unless I break down that front diff completely and inspect the design.
Yup, it sounds like the issue you are having is indeed the needle bearing. Good luck brother!
@@KFloTacoma When buying my bushing last week, I asked ECGS and I thought they implied that the other (passenger) side is a different type of bearing, maybe Ball type vs the axial Pin roller style of the Drivers side - also the overall Clamshell unit is Asymmetrical and each side experiences different loading....
I'm going to try my Bushing install next weekend.... fingers crossed that I can drive away from my drive way when done!
Just FYI, it appears that the amazon link to the Diver side Diff Axle Seal is wrong. It is actually for the passenger side. I just ordered one for the driver side and it was wrong.
Do you know if this needle bearing will fit a 2007 4runner sr5 v6?! I've been trying to find this part forever! So glad I've came across your video!
4 runner and tacomas are very similar. I would suggest reaching out to ECGS and have them confirm that it will work with your truck
Yes it will. Just ordered mine. When on the ECGS site you can either pick from a 7.5" clamshell (3rd gen 4runner) or 8'' clamshell (4th and 5th gen 4runner. You also have to give them your year make and model when ordering so Im positive they sort that out.
I have a 97 Tacoma and my CV axles are flopping do they make this bushing for that differential
Hi, excuse my ignorance but, why it's recommended to replace that ring? Should be a good idea to do it on all lifted vehicles or justo tacos or to any car? Thanks for your great video and explanation! 👌👌😎
This is more for lifted tacomas, 4 runners and I believe fj cruisers. Lifting causes driveline vibrations. This replacement fixes the issue
Pretty sure mine finally went bad. I’ve got a 3.5” lift on mine and have to swap my cv’s every few years so I figured it would happen at some point.
You can watch this video as you perform this repair
@@KFloTacoma I just did it and posted a quick time laps. Did a few things different but same outcome! 💪🏻
Awesome! Good stuff!
Sub'd. Great videos man!!
Thanks for supporting the channel bud!
If it makes the growling noise originating from the front diff in 2wd and 4H, is it still needle bearing or something else?
The needle bearimg noise goes away when you put it in 4wd. Although if it is worn out really bad then it can be the cause of the noise as well. Is the growling noise rhythmic/cyclic?
@@KFloTacoma Noise been going for about 6 months now, hooked ears up to front diff and that's where growl is coming from. It is cyclical and changes frequency as you get faster/slower. Usually starts about ~20 mph. 2 separate mechanics recommended front diff replacement, your option would save me a metric ton if it were the fix you said.
Did this noise start after a lift kit install? If so, then the issue is most definitely the needle bearing. If not then it may be the diff.
@@KFloTacoma looking like the front diff, no lift. Thanks for the info.
Have you flushed the front dif oil?
only driver side or recommended passenger side too
Just driver side
Should I do this mod before axle shims? I have carrier bearing spacer installed right now
If you're talking about the rear axle shims, both mods are independent and it doesn't really matter which one you do first. This mod does take longer than the axle shims.
What year Tacoma? I have a 2007 4x4 4.0 tacoma. Does this video apply to that model year?
I have a 2009, so all of my videos apply to your truck as well
Do u install the ecgs bushing in both sides driver and passenger ??
Just driver side
Awesome video
Thank you, very clear.
I need to replace mine, how long will the stock needle bearing last it's making noise after my front end lift.
dang, that axle nut of yours look like a pain.. glad that i live a little down in the south.
Rust is a pain in the ass bro!
Again, nicely done video bro! Keep the sway bar connected for highway speed driving - is there a quick disconnect kit for the taco?
Not aftermarket. I'm working on developing one now since I'm getting a lot of requests for it
Do you have more info on the sway bar removal? This is the first I’ve heard of it.
I have the "Sway Bar delete" video that you can watch in this channel
KFlo Tacoma I’ll check it out. I installed the ECGS bushing yesterday and still have vibrations. Cv axle(s) ate shot maybe...
@@jerrettb76 Did you get your vibrations resolved?
@@juspat2 yes I did... it turned out that my mechanic changing the transmission fluid caused the vibrations. I found this by going to a transmission shop. They pointed me to some history of a “shudder” problem. Wanted 4K to replace my trans with a remanufactured trans... did some research and others with shudder problems just added “shudder fix” to the fluid. So I bough some on Amazon and a pump to pump it in. I followed the directions for adding shudder fix... Which is not just “add and go” you have to run the engine cycle between P R D... then drain excess. Bottom line it cost me about $30 and some time. Shudder is totally gone.
@@jerrettb76 Glad to hear - and thank you for sharing - that's some good information to know. Not surprised by the attempted $4k sale of course :-(
Do you have part numbers for the CV Axle Bearings that have the flanges like the ones you used? The seals available are difficult to keep in place and leak
All the part numbers and link are in the description. thank you for watching and supporting the channel!
Does that lil bit of play on the bearing cause vibration
Yessiree. That's a major mod people typically do after a lift.
Thank you sir
Do I need to do this for my15 Tacoma. I’m planning to do 2-3inch lift and want to know if I need this done and do I need a diff drop kit as well
Yes and yes
@@KFloTacoma ok thx man, your videos are really helpful and saving me a ton of money by doing it my self and following ur guidance. Correct me if I’m wrong, here’s my shopping cart to do a lift the proper way so far imo: dobinsons full 2” lift kit (coil overs, shocks, new leaf packs, I bolts, ECGS bushing, front diff drop kit, SPC upper control arms
Let me know if I’m missing anything else :) I wanna do it once so I don’t have to go back after vibrations if they occur
I would recommend watching my driveline vibrations video. You have most of the necessary parts covered though. You may need the carrier bearing drop / angled shim kit which can be installed later. You can watch the said video for more information. What I bolts are you referring to? Also if you're planning to put on 33" tires you'll need to do the cmc mod
how do you know when to stop filling the front diff? just fill to the hole?
Just till the fill hole starts overflowing, I have a whole video on that so check that out on this channel! thanks for watching and supporting the channel!
hi, I have a question if you can help me please. what size is the socket with which you put the bushing?
Hi Cesar, the socket size doesn't matter. Its whatever has the same diameter. When in doubt, you can also but the tool from ECGS
Hello KFlo Tacoma what year of your Tacoma that you are working on it? Thanks.
2009 TRD Sport
Hello the seal that you took out after you pull out the CV shaft I got that part number. What about the part number that you pull out with your finger? Please let me know. Thank you.
It's under the description of the video
Another question . What happens if the metal flange on the axle is a bit bent , the flange that is on the end going into the front differential. Mine is a bit bent dont know how it probably happened after replacing the needle bearing and i have a very minor leak . Already replaced the acle seal but still have a leak
That flange acts like a dust cover to keep the seals clear from larger debris. So the leak is coming from that area? did you also replace the CV axle or did you reuse the old one? if reused, did you check the bearing surface on that axle for scratches and deep gouges?
Yea thats the area where its leaking from , i did replace the axle as well since the cv boot was torn . Very minor leak but the thing i noticed was that the flange was a bit bent not much
The only way to really validate would be to pull out the axle, if it's a small enough leak then it's your call wether or not it's worth pulling out and inspecting. There is a way to push out the CVs without damaging the flange - you can watch the regearing series in this channel
@@KFloTacoma i think its the axle i just went under the truck and compared the new one to the other side which is still oem and the oem has zero play and the new one has alot of play up and down and side to side . But its in all the way . Why is that ?
There really shouldn't be that much play. I wonder if this new axle has a different diameter for that bearing surfface
Can you recommend a shop in N.J. to do this install?
would you install a rear sway bar on the tacoma ?
Which direction does the axle seal go in? Does the spring face outside or inside?
I'm not really understanding the question - I'm going to need you to reword. If you watch the video, the axle seals can only go one way at the hub end as well as the differential end.
The spring side is the back of the seal which should face the inside of the diff.
Does all this apply to a 2013 tacoma? I pulled everything out and simply do not see the pin bearings. Is the pin bearing only on the driver side. I'm asking as I only removed the passenger side.
it's on the driver side only
Wow great video sir 👍💕
Thanks for the kind words good sir. Please help my channel grow by sharing my vids with your Tacoma friends!
Whats the reason you add grease to the splines
It works like assembly lubricant to let the splines slide into each other easier as well as keep the surfaces corrosion resistant.
How much oil should be filled back up in the diff?
So is this the fix for the vibration humming when going into 2WD from 4WD? I’m having that problem now with my 2013
Yessir. That's one of the way to test the needle bearing hum
Awesome vid! Subscribed. I just have a question: My 2011 tacoma 4x4 is having a growling noise between 40-45mph, but turning the wheel doesn't make a difference in the sound. I replaced both front complete hubs, and the sound is exactly the same. The drivers side CV axle at the diff is very very loose compared to the passenger side. Putting it in 4wd makes no difference in the sound, so that's why I'm wondering if I should just replace the cv axles or the bushing as well. It has just under 90K. I appreciate your reply!
Is your truck lifted?
KFlo's Tacoma Build No lift, bone stock other than nitto terra grappler tires
How bad is the growling noise? If it's rythmic/cyclic then it's probably the needle bearing. In that case, it would be good to replace the needle bearing. If the CV axle is already loose, then, might as well add that in as a replacement. It's not much more in term of parts cost and since you will be pulling out the needle bearing anyway, then it would be worth it.
KFlo's Tacoma Build really bad! I just ordered the cv axle and the bushing! Thanks for your help! Ill let you know when its all installed!
Cool. Good luck bro!
whats up pinoy! subbed
Thanks Pare! You'll enjoy my more recent videos as well!
What does it mean if my wheel bearing doesn’t rotate freely? Replaced both front ones and the driver side spins fine but passenger side gets hung up and takes some effort to get past
Maybe the driver side axle is binding up at the joint