That o-ring issue that Peter mentioned is incredibly important! 25 years ago, a mechanic (at a dealer) did not do it correctly and it cost me over $1000 for repairs because the splines got ruined when the shaft came out. I had the work done at a dealership at the other end of the country and they refused to take responsibility for their mistake -- so, no recourse. That was with a Nissan. They lost a potential lifetime customer due to that. Never again, Nissan. From there, it was, "hello Toyota."
I just did this on my wife's 2015 Corolla S, two days ago, for the second time. Note the depth of the old seal when before you remove it. Mine was on the driver's side and you can actually install the seal too deep. If you 'drive it home', there's a good chance the new seal will leak too. That's why I was doing this a second time. Great video Sir!
So I did the seal on mine and was being careful not to drive it home and mine is still leaking!! I'm going to try to put another new one in tomorrow!!! It's kinda hard there's not alot of room to get it in there
I really appreciate the care you take with those vehicles sir, as well as how good of a job you do in explaining things to us. You just earned a faithful subscriber!
Outstanding video sir. I especially appreciate how you do this repair without any "special" tools. However, if I may be so bold, an important step when draining any fluid is to make sure that you are able to access fill port. I changed an axle out in my dad's 1991 cadillac brougham. You have to open rear differential to do this. Afterwards, I had a heck of a time opening filler port. Someone had stripped the original fastener and I had to weld a piece of square stock and then welded a nut to the end of square stock to access it.
What can cause the seal to wear? Is it usually something regarding the axle or trans? Do the inner axle cv joints get loose/worn and cause a pushing down on that seal?
The man has experience, and knows how to do it right, with zero damage. Toyota axle oil seals are different than others, they have a opposing rubber flanges, such that you can't use a regular flat seal driver. A 48mm socket as a driver will work on this, but I have a '16 highlander and would require a 65mm socket (no such thing exists, maybe an SAE equivalent). But using the old seal as driving tool is great. I use a wooden dowel or a 1" square pc of lumber to drive around the edge.
@Toyota Maintenance - Thank you for the tip to install the new seal suing the old one. I struggled for two days, as I could not find the right seal driver for my front cv joint. Watched your video, and 30 minutes later, my new seal is installed and flushed. For the CV-joint, after wrestling for 20 minutes, I then used the steering knuckled as leverage and press it against the axle nut side, and it drove the cv-joint in straight. I liked your video for the tips.
Thank you this was fantastic. Not something I need to do, and maybe a little advanced for me anyway, but I was always curious how the wheels were connected underneath. Great job showing how everything fits together - it must be very time consuming to change the camera and lighting all the time as you proceed. Cheerio!!
That was typical of Toyota from its beginning in the 1960s their cars were well designed and built to be reliable when properly maintained. This was an excellent job of replacing the seal without damaging anything. I would have considered replacing the one on the other side at the same time as a preventive measure as it is probably worn out as well. I haven't seen too many of these cars with manual transmissions the vast majority were built with the almost bulletproof 4 speed automatic.
Mr. Toyota Maintenance is a Master Mechanic!!!! He makes every job he performs look so easy. This is a sign of a really talented mechanic. Plus, he knows many "tricks" to make jobs more easy. He reminds me of a Guitar Instructor I had way back in my youth. He would always teach the "proper" instruction first, then he would introduce me to "short cuts" that made the same note or sound and was more easy to transfer to the next note or chord. Both of these men are Master's of their trade!!!!
Length is perfect to capture all the detail. Much appreciated. Looks ro be exact issue i have on my 07 yaris, so I'll be attempting this at home. Great vid! Subbed That seal idea is the same i used to replace my fork seals last year. I used old seal to take impact, and used a length of pvc pipe to tap it home evenly. Thanks for your time and consideration for the the viewers, your angles really help understand this whole process
AAR2VZ would it damage it? I work on my car but I didn’t go to automotive school. I usually take the nut off on the ground too. But, if I did jack the car up first for some reason and used an impact to get them off could it ruin something?
I have removed the axle nut 3 different ways. 1) Air Impact (on ground and off the ground). 2) Prybar between two of the lug nuts (rim off), use breaker bar to remove nut. 3) Homemade bar with plate that you can bolt two of the lug nuts to and use a breaker bar to remove. Leverage is your friend.
Thank you for your professional instructions. I've never done this before, now I've got confidence to go ahead. Just bought a used vehicle for my self 😊
Hi TM, I have a strange problem. I own a Toyota Camry 2001 4 cylinder 2.2 engine. When im driving and if i drove past an uneven road I get a loud thud, like if you drive over a pot-hole and the pothole hits your tyres hard, that kind of sound. Only problem is, there’s no potholes. Just driving on uneven roads does that. Then the strange thing starts. It will start to leak clear oil like that we see here in the axle. Just clear yellow oil. Now after watching this video I think this is the oil that is leaking out. Just a month ago I faced the same problem and I went to the mechanic who replaced the axle seal for me. But now im seeing the same thing. A loud thud while driving over uneven road and then the oil leaks. What could be causing that loud thud in the first place? Could it be bad struts? Or other parts? If i keep replacing the axle seals it may just keep getting damaged whenever i drive across uneven roads. The damaged axle seals appear to be the symptoms and not the real cause of this problem. Any help is very appreciated. Thanks so much.
Passenger side (left hand drive) or Driver side? A lout thud is probably the seal going broke. On passenger side, there is a bracket that hold CV axle before it goes into transmission or transfer case. Is it still there? If it is clear oil or yellowish, it is likely gear oil, not transmission oil
@@zaiks0105 hi bro, thanks for the reply. My car is right hand drive and this is coming from the passenger side. The clear oil that leaks is not by a lot but just minute drops every now and then. Really puzzling what it is.
Thank you for the insightful video. Do you have any tips on how to properly remove/install the set-ring on the end of the CV axel and Intermediate shaft?
I have replaced the seal on the passenger side of a Corolla 2010 with the dealer part number. I still have a leak from the passenger side, went and got another new seal and install it all over again even went and got an aftermarket new axle and still have a leak. Going crazy, what could be the problem here.
God damn I hate putting in axle seals one side is perfect but I hit the other side boom 💥 the side that was perfect goes in too deep I didn't even hit that side
Hello man ! Great video but for people that want to do it a bit faster I recommend removing the strut bolts instead of the lower ball joint… it’s faster if you are in a rush
Great instructional video thanks for sharing And replacing all the gear oil great job 👍Here in Canada 🇨🇦where it’s cold we use a little dialectic grease to help it slide in the seal and keep the rubber soft
I did this a couple weeks ago on my 04 highlander... I ruined a seal hitting it too hard in the wrong spot. I really could have used your old seal trick then. Thanks for the video.
Nice video. I have a question. Is that metal dust cover at the end of the axle shaft necessary? My dealer couldn't get it, so I installed without it. I hope this doesn't compromise the seal.
Yes, there are seals inside transmission but you don't replace them unless you are overhauling the whole thing. If you have transfer case (4WD models), you can replace them in the same way (after TC is out)
Great job, but question. I read in the manual there is drain ports right behind the seal and the seal needs to be flush with the outside surface, because if the seal is pushed past the face of the trans it will block the ports. That's why some seal install tools bottom out on the trans. Does this apply on this job? Thanks for the video.
Just installed a CV seal. I know what you are saying. I could see 2 drain holes (big) and yet when I installed it, it went past original position but not blocking those ports. So yes, gotta watch out. Another thing is once you push hard and past where you wanted it to be, it is very delicate to pull it back out due to spring and potential of damaging the lip
I’ve owned many Hondas starting with an Accord in 1982, so given that I’ve owned about a dozen of them, I’m very familiar with Honda. I’ve never owned a Toyota but have been considering giving them a try. The information in your videos is very helpful and causes me to believe that Toyotas are in some ways better than Honda.
Honda Lost me to Toyota completely when they would not stand behind their 02' Accord's transmission problems, and they very much knew it was their fault. Costed me about 2 grand. Left them completely, have never been dissatisfied with any of my Toyotas, or the Toyota company.
Many thanks, I have shaft plus new seal to install, 04 Prius @280k. Although the old seals were not leaking but I will change anyway. I will be careful not to break anything
Interesting, I did mine in our 2004 Corolla; the driver side went in ok, the passenger side did not, I found out I have the wrong seal on the passenger side installed. I did pound the hell out of it trying to get the axle in but mostly with a piece of 2x4 on the end of the axle and holding it straight by a cord from the spring; the axles are new, seem fine but I did not know we do not suppose to pound on it; I did on both sides but the passenger side I went home with it, wonder if I broke that axle, on the outside seems fine but now watching your video I have my doubts; the driver side went in with few taps and by the way ever other video shows folks taping the axle from the outer spline to get it in. I thought I had a defective C clip and it is indeed deformed to the point had to order a new one; that was before discovering I had the wrong seal on it; no wonder it wont go in all the way!!
Still not sure if the exact same procedure applies identically for the 2010 Corolla but I will jump over my CV axles based on your GREAT GREAT video, you Rock Mr. Toyota Maintenance!!!
Adding trans axle grease on the ring keep it center for easy installation. Actually in the new axle directions say to add grease. Check your information and instructions first before moving forward.
You are such a lifesaver! Dealing with the same issue on our 99 Corolla today. I know if it's a video that you did, it's going to be good. Bravo and thank you for every helpful video 👏
Great video! And I have a question. What if the new seal still leaks? I had replaced that seal on my 2002 Lexus ES and it still leaks. I used a new CV Axle and a new seal. What can be cause for that?
Hi! Thank you for all of your videos! I'm changing my driver's side CV axle, and its stuck, and I can't get it to seat. Nor can I remove it to try again. Any ideas?
I just installed an axle seal in my 2006 toyota sienna. I used the old seal to knock the new one in as I could not press it in to start like you did. These seals are called T seals and has a outer "lip". I cut off this lip on the old seal for a flatter surface and a better drive. I made sure to look at how the old seal was seated and it was just about flush with the transmission housing. The thing is, no matter how much I hammered the new seal in I could not get it to seat like the old one. It looked at though It needed to be in about 1/16 ( 1.5mm?) of an inch more. I hope that will be acceptable as I reinstalled the axle shaft. I will be checking for leaks. I figure the worse case scenario is that the shaft housing may eat away any part of the seal it contacts but at least this will be on the external part of the seal and hopefully should not cause a leak. Comments?
@@abyssalsoul6216 Good to hear ... Even with extra care, mine went in a little slanted. I'm afraid to pull it back out since once pull out, I need to buy new one. There is no lip behind for support; it is inner transfer case seal. Crossing fingers!
@@zaiks0105 Yeah , just inspect every now and again to be sure it is sealing. I really think that if it were to leak it would have done so already. If it went in crooked and most of the seal ia IN then I think you will be good for a while.
Hey brother thank so much for the awesome video you shared. The only additional step I took was to smooth out the inside of the shaft seal on the engine side. Using very fine sand paper to enough to make it smooth! Thank you so much again, your video is helping many home mechanics like myself. God bless you brother 👍🏻
I replaced my axle on my 88 Corolla. I forgot to replace the seal. Actually, I removed the old one but did not put a new one. About 6 months later while on my way to work the automatic transmission dame to grinding halt. If you don't take your time and do things correctly, you will pay dearly.
That o-ring issue that Peter mentioned is incredibly important! 25 years ago, a mechanic (at a dealer) did not do it correctly and it cost me over $1000 for repairs because the splines got ruined when the shaft came out. I had the work done at a dealership at the other end of the country and they refused to take responsibility for their mistake -- so, no recourse. That was with a Nissan. They lost a potential lifetime customer due to that. Never again, Nissan. From there, it was, "hello Toyota."
Dude morons work at dealers every day hell they only pay 16$ per hour in 2020 to start so I said he’ll no only a moron would work that cheap
This is easily one of your best videos. Thank you for all the tips for a proper job!
You are great at teaching us stuff! Don’t stop!
I just did this on my wife's 2015 Corolla S, two days ago, for the second time. Note the depth of the old seal when before you remove it. Mine was on the driver's side and you can actually install the seal too deep. If you 'drive it home', there's a good chance the new seal will leak too. That's why I was doing this a second time.
Great video Sir!
So I did the seal on mine and was being careful not to drive it home and mine is still leaking!! I'm going to try to put another new one in tomorrow!!! It's kinda hard there's not alot of room to get it in there
Thanks for info
Thanks for the info!
That was exactly my problem. Seal was installed too deep ans started leaking
Thanks for all your hard work!
I really appreciate the care you take with those vehicles sir, as well as how good of a job you do in explaining things to us.
You just earned a faithful subscriber!
12:39 grease the clip like sticky then rotate the clip so the open part is on the bottom.... It will pop in easily
Thank you my friend for doing such a great job into sharing your wisdom with the world! We love your content, keep it coming. 👍👍
Outstanding video sir. I especially appreciate how you do this repair without any "special" tools. However, if I may be so bold, an important step when draining any fluid is to make sure that you are able to access fill port. I changed an axle out in my dad's 1991 cadillac brougham. You have to open rear differential to do this. Afterwards, I had a heck of a time opening filler port. Someone had stripped the original fastener and I had to weld a piece of square stock and then welded a nut to the end of square stock to access it.
What can cause the seal to wear? Is it usually something regarding the axle or trans? Do the inner axle cv joints get loose/worn and cause a pushing down on that seal?
Have you ever tried to add some lube to the metal ring on the end of the CV axle so it will go in easier? Or is that a bad idea.
Wow Mr. TM, this is exactly what I'm "Going to be needing to do" on my wife's '93 Toyota corolla ! Thanks so MUCH!
Who else thinks 'California Dreaming" would be perfect theme music for a video about a 21 year old car without rust?
Excellent video, thank you for the tips!
The man has experience, and knows how to do it right, with zero damage. Toyota axle oil seals are different than others, they have a opposing rubber flanges, such that you can't use a regular flat seal driver. A 48mm socket as a driver will work on this, but I have a '16 highlander and would require a 65mm socket (no such thing exists, maybe an SAE equivalent). But using the old seal as driving tool is great. I use a wooden dowel or a 1" square pc of lumber to drive around the edge.
Do you drive the seal all the way in or just flush with the outside lip of the transmission?
I have a bearing press tool kit and the round pieces in it are excellent for placing over seals to hammer in
@@warriorplutotrent3827all the way i recommend, i did it flush before and it formed a leak.
@@alexanderbarrera9140 ok thanks. I'll keep it in mind when i do my axle swap
Don't worry about the length of the video. The more time we have from you the better!
I really appreciate how you're trying your best to make sure your cam captures what you are doing.
Great info. I was just told I need to fix my mom's Corolla this weekend, and your video helped give me a heads up on what tools I'll need. Thanks.
@Toyota Maintenance - Thank you for the tip to install the new seal suing the old one. I struggled for two days, as I could not find the right seal driver for my front cv joint. Watched your video, and 30 minutes later, my new seal is installed and flushed. For the CV-joint, after wrestling for 20 minutes, I then used the steering knuckled as leverage and press it against the axle nut side, and it drove the cv-joint in straight. I liked your video for the tips.
Awesome video man thanks for taking the time to explain things so thoroughly.
Great video 📹! Not too long at all! Keep them coming!
I use axle socket 36mm to hammer them in place
Wonderful video! I like how you showed how to get the seal in without any special tools. Thank you for sharing this gold!
Hello sir,you probably get annoyed by this 1 question but,where are you from,if I may guess and sorry if I'm wrong,but SWEEDEN OR GERMANY?
In another video he said Czech Republic
Thank you this was fantastic. Not something I need to do, and maybe a little advanced for me anyway, but I was always curious how the wheels were connected underneath. Great job showing how everything fits together - it must be very time consuming to change the camera and lighting all the time as you proceed. Cheerio!!
That generation of the Corolla was engineered like a more expensive car than it actually was.
That was typical of Toyota from its beginning in the 1960s their cars were well designed and built to be reliable when properly maintained. This was an excellent job of replacing the seal without damaging anything. I would have considered replacing the one on the other side at the same time as a preventive measure as it is probably worn out as well. I haven't seen too many of these cars with manual transmissions the vast majority were built with the almost bulletproof 4 speed automatic.
Mr. Toyota Maintenance is a Master Mechanic!!!! He makes every job he performs look so easy. This is a sign of a really talented mechanic. Plus, he knows many "tricks" to make jobs more easy. He reminds me of a Guitar Instructor I had way back in my youth. He would always teach the "proper" instruction first, then he would introduce me to "short cuts" that made the same note or sound and was more easy to transfer to the next note or chord. Both of these men are Master's of their trade!!!!
Length is perfect to capture all the detail. Much appreciated. Looks ro be exact issue i have on my 07 yaris, so I'll be attempting this at home. Great vid! Subbed
That seal idea is the same i used to replace my fork seals last year. I used old seal to take impact, and used a length of pvc pipe to tap it home evenly. Thanks for your time and consideration for the the viewers, your angles really help understand this whole process
I always loosen the axel nut with the tire on the ground so as not to damage the cv joint.
AAR2VZ would it damage it? I work on my car but I didn’t go to automotive school.
I usually take the nut off on the ground too. But, if I did jack the car up first for some reason and used an impact to get them off could it ruin something?
I have removed the axle nut 3 different ways.
1) Air Impact (on ground and off the ground).
2) Prybar between two of the lug nuts (rim off), use breaker bar to remove nut.
3) Homemade bar with plate that you can bolt two of the lug nuts to and use a breaker bar to remove.
Leverage is your friend.
75W90 doesn't seem the correct oil for Transmission. That is a Gear oil for Differential. Toyota uses WS or TIV transmission fluid.
Thank you for your professional instructions. I've never done this before, now I've got confidence to go ahead. Just bought a used vehicle for my self 😊
A short length of pvc pipe can be used to set the seal.
Excellent tutorial no matter the length ... Well done Sir
Your way of explaining the details is pretty cool
Thank you for this beautiful clip, my friend
I benefited and enjoyed a lot
Outstanding Performance sir , clearly understood. I really appreciate your hard working ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
Very nice! you can NOT beat these old Toyotas!.... I have a 1998 with 251k!
Hi TM, I have a strange problem. I own a Toyota Camry 2001 4 cylinder 2.2 engine. When im driving and if i drove past an uneven road I get a loud thud, like if you drive over a pot-hole and the pothole hits your tyres hard, that kind of sound. Only problem is, there’s no potholes. Just driving on uneven roads does that. Then the strange thing starts. It will start to leak clear oil like that we see here in the axle. Just clear yellow oil. Now after watching this video I think this is the oil that is leaking out. Just a month ago I faced the same problem and I went to the mechanic who replaced the axle seal for me. But now im seeing the same thing. A loud thud while driving over uneven road and then the oil leaks. What could be causing that loud thud in the first place? Could it be bad struts? Or other parts? If i keep replacing the axle seals it may just keep getting damaged whenever i drive across uneven roads. The damaged axle seals appear to be the symptoms and not the real cause of this problem. Any help is very appreciated. Thanks so much.
Passenger side (left hand drive) or Driver side? A lout thud is probably the seal going broke. On passenger side, there is a bracket that hold CV axle before it goes into transmission or transfer case. Is it still there? If it is clear oil or yellowish, it is likely gear oil, not transmission oil
@@zaiks0105 hi bro, thanks for the reply. My car is right hand drive and this is coming from the passenger side. The clear oil that leaks is not by a lot but just minute drops every now and then. Really puzzling what it is.
@@TruthSeekerAll Then it is likely to have same bracket. Uneven surface == differential functionality. Check stuffs around there too.
@@zaiks0105 ok thanks bro, will check around the area and see.
Hello does the transmission opening needs to be dry before installing new seal? Thank you
Thank you for the insightful video. Do you have any tips on how to properly remove/install the set-ring on the end of the CV axel and Intermediate shaft?
Thanks for sharing your excellent video.a lot of good information provided.
I have a 2001 Corolla with an auto trans. The CV axle appears to fit in just like this one. Does anyone know that for sure?
I have replaced the seal on the passenger side of a Corolla 2010 with the dealer part number. I still have a leak from the passenger side, went and got another new seal and install it all over again even went and got an aftermarket new axle and still have a leak. Going crazy, what could be the problem here.
God damn I hate putting in axle seals one side is perfect but I hit the other side boom 💥 the side that was perfect goes in too deep I didn't even hit that side
Hello man ! Great video but for people that want to do it a bit faster I recommend removing the strut bolts instead of the lower ball joint… it’s faster if you are in a rush
I use a dab of grease to hold the “C” clip centered on the axle and carefully insert, and push. Seems to help.
Great instructional video thanks for sharing And replacing all the gear oil great job 👍Here in Canada 🇨🇦where it’s cold we use a little dialectic grease to help it slide in the seal and keep the rubber soft
Getting the CV axle in my old pathfinder was awful. It did not want to go in at all. It took forever.
Cv axile lock postion ring key can you explain me
? does this also 'sorta' compare/apply to a Gen7 Corolla ('96) with an AT transmission
First thing I’ve I see a German working on a Japanese car. Lmao. Make it goodntight.
Does anyone know the part number for drivers side. Can’t find it 5 speed manual
In your experience, how often do Axle's on Toyota's need to be replaced?
Is it normal that oil will come out in this process. What is the oil doesn't come. Does it mean there is less oil ?
Excellent video, very instructive. 👍🏻👍🏻
Thank you so much for sharing this important video.
Brilliant taking it step by step good man thanks
Hey master this aply for scion tc 2007?
Great vid and very helpful, thanks
I did this a couple weeks ago on my 04 highlander... I ruined a seal hitting it too hard in the wrong spot. I really could have used your old seal trick then. Thanks for the video.
Nice video. I have a question. Is that metal dust cover at the end of the axle shaft necessary? My dealer couldn't get it, so I installed without it. I hope this doesn't compromise the seal.
I think so ... I wouldn't install the axle without it
Excellent video. Thank you...
So a 1 7/8 inch 12 point socket should work?
is there such thing as an inner cv joint seal like on the inside of the transmission and if so how would u replace it
Yes, there are seals inside transmission but you don't replace them unless you are overhauling the whole thing. If you have transfer case (4WD models), you can replace them in the same way (after TC is out)
Thanks for the video. Good tip using the old seal.
Good informative step by step video.
Great job, but question. I read in the manual there is drain ports right behind the seal and the seal needs to be flush with the outside surface, because if the seal is pushed past the face of the trans it will block the ports. That's why some seal install tools bottom out on the trans. Does this apply on this job? Thanks for the video.
Just installed a CV seal. I know what you are saying. I could see 2 drain holes (big) and yet when I installed it, it went past original position but not blocking those ports. So yes, gotta watch out. Another thing is once you push hard and past where you wanted it to be, it is very delicate to pull it back out due to spring and potential of damaging the lip
@@zaiks0105 well, if I have to pull it back, there goes another $10. I'll replace it. Seals are so dam sensitive. Thanks for the response.
Fantastic video! Thank you!
Saturn 2002 sc2 video left front axle seal
You’re a very patient and kind man
Boosss what number part drive shaft oil seal
I’ve owned many Hondas starting with an Accord in 1982, so given that I’ve owned about a dozen of them, I’m very familiar with Honda. I’ve never owned a Toyota but have been considering giving them a try. The information in your videos is very helpful and causes me to believe that Toyotas are in some ways better than Honda.
Thanks for all you do for us Peter
Honda Lost me to Toyota completely when they would not stand behind their 02' Accord's transmission problems, and they very much knew it was their fault. Costed me about 2 grand. Left them completely, have never been dissatisfied with any of my Toyotas, or the Toyota company.
Easily one of the best videos ive seen in a while
Where are you located? I need a new mechanic.
Goof video. What is the name of that seal?
Can you reply me
Where can I buy this part
Many thanks, I have shaft plus new seal to install, 04 Prius @280k. Although the old seals were not leaking but I will change anyway. I will be careful not to break anything
Interesting, I did mine in our 2004 Corolla; the driver side went in ok, the passenger side did not, I found out I have the wrong seal on the passenger side installed. I did pound the hell out of it trying to get the axle in but mostly with a piece of 2x4 on the end of the axle and holding it straight by a cord from the spring; the axles are new, seem fine but I did not know we do not suppose to pound on it; I did on both sides but the passenger side I went home with it, wonder if I broke that axle, on the outside seems fine but now watching your video I have my doubts; the driver side went in with few taps and by the way ever other video shows folks taping the axle from the outer spline to get it in. I thought I had a defective C clip and it is indeed deformed to the point had to order a new one; that was before discovering I had the wrong seal on it; no wonder it wont go in all the way!!
you are a lifesaver comrade
Still not sure if the exact same procedure applies identically for the 2010 Corolla but I will jump over my CV axles based on your GREAT GREAT video, you Rock Mr. Toyota Maintenance!!!
Super helpful tips here! 🙏🏼🤙🏼💪🏼💪🏼💪🏼. +10 points for the Toyota friends 🤣🤣
Adding trans axle grease on the ring keep it center for easy installation. Actually in the new axle directions say to add grease. Check your information and instructions first before moving forward.
You are such a lifesaver! Dealing with the same issue on our 99 Corolla today. I know if it's a video that you did, it's going to be good. Bravo and thank you for every helpful video 👏
Great video! And I have a question. What if the new seal still leaks? I had replaced that seal on my 2002 Lexus ES and it still leaks. I used a new CV Axle and a new seal. What can be cause for that?
Thanks for the video
I have a 2000 Corolla manual transmission and that crossmember is a PITA. You also have to re/move it to get the oil pan off!
Hi! Thank you for all of your videos! I'm changing my driver's side CV axle, and its stuck, and I can't get it to seat. Nor can I remove it to try again. Any ideas?
Do you have any suggestions on how to remove the driver side cv axle on a 2009 Corolla. It’s in a really tight location. Thanks! Great video!
Excellent video sir. I just recently messed that very seal on my lady's car. I know how to fix it now.
Love those reflexes
My bekanten jumped back
Avoiding schumitzig oil! 🙈
I just installed an axle seal in my 2006 toyota sienna. I used the old seal to knock the new one in as I could not press it in to start like you did. These seals are called T seals and has a outer "lip". I cut off this lip on the old seal for a flatter surface and a better drive. I made sure to look at how the old seal was seated and it was just about flush with the transmission housing. The thing is, no matter how much I hammered the new seal in I could not get it to seat like the old one. It looked at though It needed to be in about 1/16 ( 1.5mm?) of an inch more. I hope that will be acceptable as I reinstalled the axle shaft. I will be checking for leaks. I figure the worse case scenario is that the shaft housing may eat away any part of the seal it contacts but at least this will be on the external part of the seal and hopefully should not cause a leak. Comments?
How is it doing now, a year later?
@@zaiks0105 The seal is working great. No leaks and everytime I do an oil change I inspect it
@@abyssalsoul6216 Good to hear ... Even with extra care, mine went in a little slanted. I'm afraid to pull it back out since once pull out, I need to buy new one. There is no lip behind for support; it is inner transfer case seal. Crossing fingers!
@@zaiks0105 Yeah , just inspect every now and again to be sure it is sealing. I really think that if it were to leak it would have done so already. If it went in crooked and most of the seal ia IN then I think you will be good for a while.
Nice work; and the only one, Ive 'seen that I like the approach, have done this job myself a year and a half ago, Thank You
Hey brother thank so much for the awesome video you shared. The only additional step I took was to smooth out the inside of the shaft seal on the engine side. Using very fine sand paper to enough to make it smooth! Thank you so much again, your video is helping many home mechanics like myself. God bless you brother 👍🏻
I replaced my axle on my 88 Corolla. I forgot to replace the seal. Actually, I removed the old one but did not put a new one. About 6 months later while on my way to work the automatic transmission dame to grinding halt. If you don't take your time and do things correctly, you will pay dearly.
Thank you , helped me install axel seal on my 2007 Toyota Yaris hatchback. It worked very well and saved me $238.00 shop was charging 🙂
Gracias por sus vídeos
Good job. It's so nice to do this on a lift. I did it many times on Camry and a Honda civic on jack stands and hardly any room.
Thank you buddy, very helpful, I was hoping you would show how to change the boots and clamps if needed
Thank you for you time,I like your videos so much very professional.I am learning from you Señor.God bless you
Amazing explanation, much appreciated! Now to attempt on my corolla 🤙🏼