CV Axle Replacement | Toyota Tacoma T100 4Runner
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 เม.ย. 2020
- How to remove and replace CV axle for a 1st generation (95-04) Toyota Tacoma. This general process applies to T100 and 4Runners of various generations with slight differences in socket sizes.
Tool List:
- socket wrench
- 14mm socket (deep socket or have extension)
- 17mm socket
- 17mm flare nut wrench or adjustable wrench
- 36mm socket
- flat head screwdriver
- blue loctite
- torque wrench (minimum 180 ft-lb capacity)
- impact gun or large breaker bar
- prybar/crowbar or ball joint removal fork
- needle nose pliers
- 6mm hex
Torque Spec for Axle Nut: 174 ft-lb
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Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of Engineered Mojo, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. Engineered Mojo assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. Engineered Mojo recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of Engineered Mojo, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Engineered Mojo. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
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Super nice video and explanation of how to do this job!
Appreciate the feedback!
Outstanding video! Production quality and instruction is excellent
I appreciate the great feedback! Hope the video was helpful
Thanks, I have to tackle this on Thursday. liked and subscribed!
Good luck with the install!
Well done.thank you
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for the feedback on the video
Music is very relaxing love it nice video
Glad to hear music was appreciated, calming music always helps me work on a car
@@EngineeredMojo same here bro
A Tip To remove nut with a brake bar without put vehicle back on ground is a Pry bar On The Wheel Studs and A Breaker Bar To take the nut off hope that helps
That's a good tip, thanks!
@@EngineeredMojo very welcome hope it helps somebody
@Engineered Mojo you can use that technique also To lock the axle nuts back down also if ya don't want to put it back on the ground yet pry bar on studs and torque wrench to tighten the nut down
@@AntonioClaudioMichael when I looked up the technique you mentioned I saw that process of well for using same technique to get axle nut but back on. I plan to try and use similar technique for a crank pulley bolt in a few weeks actually. Using pulley key in combination with placing prybar against my lower control arm for resistance while I turn crank pulley bolt with long breaker bar. I still have my impact socket gun, but not always easy to fit that into spaces haha
@Engineered Mojo sounds like a Good Plan didn't realize ya Looked up the Technique glad the information I gave was detailed enough so you could look it up they come in handy to make fewer steps it can be annoying and even exhausting to constantly pick up a vehicle and put it back on the ground you can also use a floor jack while the Vehicle is on jack stands to put the suspension back to the right height to tighten down bolts that are attached to bushings like control arms Also another tip For ya
People up for this job , stay away from Advance Auto Carquest CV Axel Part #NCV69142
End that goes into the hub bearing doesn't seat properly , this is very difficult to notice during installation so I found.
I got both sides installed gave it test drive finding smooth performance, days following their was minor clank every so often that could be heard at slow speed.
My first though was steering rack bushings or upper ball joints were @ fault.
Taking closer look I found very minor axel side to side play.
I ended up replacing them with Napa Maxdrives & problem solved.
Thank goodness hub bearings weren't destroyed during Carquest experience.
Thanks for the info on that! Having to do this job twice is not fun, glad to know of shoddy replacement parts
@@EngineeredMojo yeah going aftermarket is gamble.
I've always had much trust in Carquest quality ,that is no more.
So much damage could of occurred to hub & differential with prolonged use of their cv.
Anyway as far as upper/lower ball joints , sensors , timing belt goodies etc.
OEM & 555 parts are only way to go.
Nothing else should be trusted.
Thank you sir
No problem! hope it was helpful
Ill let ya know
Do 3rd gen 4runners and 1st gen taccomas share front cv axels?
I’m working on a very similar Toyota 100 , 1993 4wd model. I have the drive shaft part. I took it apart ( fairly similar to truck in your video. ) however I’ve stopped at the point after taking out the 4 bolts underneath the hub. Due to the fact this has torsion bar suspension which is connects to the top wish bone. Im not sure if I should try to swing it out the way, as the torsion bar pressure is pushing down and I might have issues if I do that. I’m going to take another look at my Haynes manual. Any ideas
I think I've run across that scenario. In the truck I did, I did not remove the torsion bar but instead there should be the sway arm bolt opposite from the torsion bar (other side of wishbone). I removed the sway arm bolt and swung the rotor assembly in the direction of the torsion arm. Hope that's your scenario, but if not I'd definitely avoid removing the torsion bars add they can be a bear to remove
Good video, looking at replacing an axle on my 94 4Runner, luckily it seems Toyota didn't change things between generations so vids like this are helpful. I do have a question though - do you know the fork on the bike behind is installed backwards?
Ohh man you are a MVP, just went out to my garage to swap this around. I hadn't thought about it, but realized my foot was often hitting the tire on tight turns. Flipping to fork around solved that. Thanks :)
@@EngineeredMojo no worries, long time bike mechanic so things like that pop out.
Is the ton ring not on the Cv axle Hmm it had Abs 🤔
I've got a 1993 T100. I noticed the outer boot has worn out and so i'll need to replace the boot. Do you think i'll need to do the full axle replacement like you did or could i just do the boot? I assume a simular process to you video but maybe dont need to take axle right out?
You could do just the boot, but in my opinion it's just about the same amount of work to replace boot as it would be to replace axle whole. But you'll save money for sure just doing the boot but not much time
@@EngineeredMojo nice one thanks. Yep i just watched the timmy tool time video and that was the impression i got as well! i'll check prices on parts, then decide.
Hey boss, thank you for making this video. Just wanted to ask, is that silver gap between the differential and the cv axle shaft normal? It’s that little silver dust cover around the spline. Time stamp in question is 08:53
Oh yea that is normal, the angle of the camera may be making the gap look larger than what it is, but it's probably ~1/8" wide. Once you push the axle past the locking ring (which is the tough part haha) it's easy to bottom out the axle into the differential housing and it'll be obvious axle can't go any further. Additionally, reinstalling axle nut, wheel and suspension items loosened will ensure axle is seated. Hope that helps!
@@EngineeredMojo Thank you brother!
Wtf I took the cap off and there was no nut
LOL, wow someone had you riding around on hope and prayers. Good thing you saw that sooner than later