How To Replace An Oil Filter Housing Gasket On A BMW N54
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 ม.ค. 2019
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►If you own a BMW with an N52, N52N, or N54 engine you can almost be assured that at some point you will be replacing the oil filter housing gasket seal. The seal in question is a soft rubber seal that sits in the filter housing and seals it to the engine block. Over time this seal due to exposure to heat and oil will become hard, shrink, and eventually lose its seal. What then results is a nice oil puddle underneath your vehicle originating from the oil filer housing.
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I just did this job on an N54 (2011 335is) and have some notes and tips that can save you hours of work over how he does this job.
5:55 on my car they're 5mm hex screws, not 6mm
6:00 he misspeaks but corrects himself later, there is only 1 bolt, and be careful when removing the nuts not to drop them
7:18 - 11:08 You do not have to do any of the hood latch and cooling system work he does, simply remove the oil cooler lines from the housing like he does at 15:35 but while the whole housing is still bolted in the car and save yourself a ton of work. Also my car uses a 13mm bolt to hold that line bracket in instead of the 6mm hex. When you pull the lines down some oil will come out so have some rags under it.
11:15 It is not necessary to remove the oil filter when removing the housing, just flip the housing upside down when you take it out and be careful.
11:45 It is definitely not necessary to drain the radiator as there isn't that much coolant in that top hose, so get a milk jug or 2 litre and cut the top off then get a plastic grocery bag without holes and put the bag under the hose as you disconnect it from the oil cooler housing, maybe 10oz of fluid will come out, then put the bag in the bottle because there are a couple holes you missed and you're making a mess.
32:30 when ordering a throttle body gasket make sure you get the right one, it might be listed as an intake manifold gasket, there is a regular o-ring between the pipe and the TB and a gasket that goes from the TB to the manifold that you see him pop out. While the o-ring will fit in the groove on the TB it will not seal and freak out your ECM, ask me how I know.
Good luck and let me know if you have any questions.
I didn’t see his throttle body o-ring…did he forget it?
I appreciate you for taking time out of your life to leave this roadmap for us to use. Hope all is well 🤝🫡
Thanks Brandon this was super helpful, likely saved me a couple hours on this job. Cheers!
Not all hero’s wear capes. Sometimes they have bunny slipppers.
I don’t even remove the manifold like he does to do them 😂 I don’t get why FCP directs people to do the work the long way
All you have to do is remove the intake manifold bolts, then lift up the intake manifold while moving it to the right just enough to get clearance to the bolt. You don’t even have to remove the charge pipe. It makes the job so much easier. Under and hour to do. This guy did extra lol. Sorry fc euro, I do buy parts from there tho 👍🏼
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@@westleyclayton5872 been 3 months, and? Didya succeed?
This oil filter gasket tutorial is by far the best I ve seen on TH-cam. No nonsense commentary from some guy driving while recording...
This is total overkill. You can do this job in a couple of hours.
This guy doing so much extra work.
Did extra for the shot I guess.
Ya I'm going to be doing this on my 335is soon and at least from the looks of it all the radiator stuff should be unnecessary if you can get an E12 wrench behind the oil cooling hoses.
Thanks for the walkthrough! I did these two gaskets and the valve cover gasket too. Then I did the pulleys and plugs. Finally, I did a manual clean of the intake valves. Took me four days at home. Saved $2500 at least! 09 135i M-Sport N54 75K miles.
Sure 2500 $, But 4 days at Home isn t Worth the effort ...
@@floriant.8237 4 days of work isnt worth your entire paycheck? Idiot.
Manual clean -- 3 bond? CRC? SeaFoam?
Vacuum or rags?
Stainless or brass brushes?
How did you clean the valve-seats? I always wonder is the cleaning is more than a patch? I mean if done well it would be gery helpful, but seats & stems and guides aren't really improved, tho probably not made worse either. I wonder what the best practice is - pull the head, rebuild, new valves (and seats, if pressed in), or maybe swap out fir a professionally rebuilt one, and attend to the bottom end: main seals, for instance?
IF YOU DID ALL THAT IN 4 DAYS IS WONDERFULL.......
Y’all did this the longest way possible I feel like
The absolute longest 🤣🤣
He might as well have removed the turbos too.
All of this to change a gasket that's literally RIGHT THERE in front of your face.
He was doing a ton of overkill. Probably what BMW will charge you for but will definitely not do if you take it in to them.
Thanks so much for this video. Its my exact car and I was having trouble finding one that matched perfectly. Followed every step and car is back running. Again, thanks a million really helped me out.
Isn't it amazing how I'm about to do my 2011 E82 N55 OFHG, and newer BMW still have the same design flaws & weak points like plastic charge pipes...
@@DigitalDissident Not hard to upgrade, and consider - despite some weaknesses, top builders still appreciate the n54/n55 as such a great platform for improving (to way beyond the way any of them were sold.) Very strong block, lots of room to grow
Great video and very detailed. My car is in the shop for this exact reason and since I can't work a screw driver, I'll leave it to the pros. I just hope the serpentine belt didn't get sucked into the engine.
The previous owner of my 2010 535i E60 had the oil filter housing gasket replaced, but whoever did the work did not 5 up all the oil that had leaked down the front of the engine. Over a few months, maybe 1200 miles, the oil began to coat the belt and pulleys, causing the belt to snap catastrophically. Make sure, whether you do it or the repair shop does it, the oil gets cleaned off. Also had oil build up in the radiator and intercooler. I removed them just to clean them.
I have seen a post on the forum and on Reddit of someone who blew a crankshaft after a oil filter housing gasket replacement due to a oil starvation. Any advice on n55 oil change and priming the oil and how to properly do it? Thank you so much!
Thank you so much for this step by step DIY for dummies like me!!!
So i'm not draining my coolant before i do the replacement, I know i'll lose a little coolant from the hose, but when i put it back together --- am i in the clear to drive it 15-20 minutes to my auto shop to have oil and coolant change? Or do i have to fill it up with more coolant?
Regarding the lower bolt of the oil filter housing gasket. Is it the flange that breaks typically or the bolts that mount the flange to the face?
Thank you FCP Euro
Tie flashlight killed me😂
going to have to do this asap... mine is leaking really bad.. did not realize this was such an involved job!
Good luck with the repair, E30 ShedSkid, hopefully, the video will come in handy for you!
how many o rings are there for the hoses, and are they all the same size?
Thank you very much for this informative DIY video. Only one thing I would like to say here when you installed the upper radiator hose ( 26:47 to 27:00), it will be better if you push down the snap ring/lock first before inserting the hose so that you gonna hear a click as an indication of proper installation. this just my way to do it. Appreciate your effort
You can definitely do that for sure if you would prefer. But the one nice thing on these hoses with the quick disconnects is you can't fully seat the locking clip unless the hose is properly seated. I've installed them both ways, generally I install new hoses with the clip down and I install old hoses with the clip up as that is how I left them when taking them off. - Gareth
True, and thank you for your reply
@@fcpeuro interesting details, thanks for all the vids (and the fish!) This, vcg, opg and if possible, any number of other small and large items on the list to get her back lean and tight! N54's are not just faded history yet!
Great video!!
How can i get the bottom e8 bolt out? Mine is really tight and seems to want to strip
Noticed aluminum bolts weren’t replaced. Is it safe to reuse same bolts. Both for housing and oil thermostat?
Thanks for the video!!! Mine is worst case senario..
Do the n54 and n55 use the same gaskets for this?
I have seen a post on the forum and on Reddit of someone who blew a crankshaft after a oil filter housing gasket replacement due to a oil starvation. Any advice on n55 oil change and priming the oil and how to properly do it? Thank you so much
I hear you have to prime the oil system. and pour oil in the housing. I also hear you soak the filter. I’m looking into it myself. Did you ever find a answer before you replace the OFHG?
Nicely done!
Thank you very much for this informative DIY video. Just one thing I would like to ask you how much do you tighten the 10mm screws to the intake manifold to 33:21 ??? The 4 screws of 10mm ??? Thanks you very much
he said it at 33:15. spec is 8 nm
@@pawn3d167 Thank you very much I was not sure 👍
You mention that two different oil cooler line o rings are needed. Part numbers? I'm buying the oil filter housing kit I found on fcp but it doesn't include those o rings. I think they should be included but what ever. I found two different o rings on your site. I just want to be sure its the two different ones that are needed.
I just bought the kit and it doesn't include the o-rings. smh
I love my 2003 525i very easy to work on .
Had one in a manual, then got an E60 535 manual transmission.
Can you guys make a video for the F10 n55 535i?
I have oil all over the front of the engine how do I clean it ? I was thinking to put a plastic bag over alternator and pressure washing the front
Are you sure it's an oil cooler thermostat,,,or just an oil cooler ?
I always thought they should make a game mod track using those gaskets. It would love to drive on those gasket layouts. 😆
Thank you. More Specialities videos on E61 N54 535xi. They need saving.
Thank you FCP Euro & Gareth! Need this done on 2013 F10 N55 xdrive. Been leaking for a few months now, should I change Serpentine belt as well?
No problem H Garti! We also suggest just refreshing the belt while you're in there, it really cant hurt.
Nice Gareth! I just did this on my 2009 535xi last week! Bought all of the parts from you guys! The job was not to bad but figured out my slight coolant leak was NOT from the housing or top radiator hose as I thought, it was leaking at the water pump (probably the "U" hose) Just did that job (water pump, thermostat and associated hoses) and it was a total B1tch!! Also, unfortunately, after getting it back together turned out the brand new thermostat housing was leaking where the 2 halves came together! :( Had to rip it apart and just re-installed the original thermostat (additional 7 hours of work, yuk, BMW REALLY made it difficult on the E60s, you should do a how-to for that on the E60). All is good now so far! Just wish the new thermostat wasn't defective. Sent it back and got my refund already!! Awesome Company, I am recommending FCPeuro to everyone I know! **** Additionally, I did the from main seal and serpentine belt already months ago, the belt broke and i shut the car off immediately, it destroyed the front main seal but did not ingest the belt very much, lucked out on that. ****
Do you have directions on how to do the front main seal and replace serpentine belt?
Why did your belt break when it was only a few months old 🤔
I just did this a couple of weeks ago. After the job, I noticed my oil doesn't climb to the normal operating temp (220-240 deg F). I've got a 335is with the oil cooler. I've read there's a sliding valve in the cooler that operates like a thermostat and keeps the oil in operating temps. Could this now be stuck open? I cleaned this and the filter housing with non-chlorinated brake cleaner, and I also replaced the oil pressure switch that came with FCP's kit. Anything I should look for to test that the oil cooler is functioning normally? I've got a Schwaben/Foxwell scan tool, if that can help.
So what happened?
@@thinkingagain5966 After a couple hundred miles, it actually started to operate normally. But my oil temps don't climb as high as it used to before the job. It stays 20-40 degrees cooler than before, interestingly. Since the gasket was toast, I think there was too much coolant mixing with the oil, so the oil cooler couldn't do its job properly. Glad I replaced this gasket when I did!
All you have to do is move that manifold back an inch or so. You can break the bolt loose with a 12 point 5/16 wrench, and then get in there with an 8mm 6 point 1/4 drive on a wobble or a flex extesion and back it out. very easy. the manifold really only adds an extra 20 minutes to the job
I’m noticing small amount of oil underneath my cap on very top right corner. Should I go ahead and change the gasket?
Underneath your oil cap where it screws on?
any thoughts on adding a small amount of permatex sealant along with the gasket for the OFHG or Oil cooler gasket or is this best to just use the gasket?
Where can I get a e10 from. Other then snap on that takes a week to get it at $240 set
Just look up e10 torx on amazon. Or your local automotive store should have them, they're only like 10-15 bucks.
This is how you charge for 3-6hrs of labor. It's a 2hr job when you get the hang of it...even less probably.
But I have to admit my man is thorough and extremely knowledgeable!
I have this leak so I've gotten pretty good at replacing the serpentine belt, what started out as an hour long job I got down to about 10 minutes, it also goes a lot quicker if you don't get to the end and realize you skipped a pulley.
@@brandonlink6568 I have a long e12 black bolt I can’t figure out where it goes did you encounter a bolt like this? I replaced my ofh gaskets serpentine belt and pulleys and alternator.
@@marklynch1305 I have not, but I didn't replace my tensioner (I need to because that T60 hole is getting pretty stripped). Some tensioners come with new bolts, looking at FCP Euro's part #11288624196 it come with a long E bolt
Can anybody please share the part number for the o-ring that is on the thermostat end of the oil line?
Note: the o-ring size is smaller for the end that is going on the thermostat. Opposite to the end that goes on the oil cooler.
Fcp kit only included the oil cooler side o rings, not the thermostat. That is most likely why you still can see a leak.
thanks
Great video, but my leak is driving me nuts, its leaking from the oil cooler hoses connection to cooler housing, replaced both o-rings twice, but still leaks badly soon after a short drive, even replaced the cooler thermostat gasket and its leaking from there as well. Tightened enough that it feels like it would strip if I tighten anymore and still leaks. I see oil pooling down the short cooler hose and drips down. Any suggestions before shelling out hundreds in new hoses and cooler housing? Feeling like trying thicker o-rings for the hoses, 13.4x1.78 original to 13.4 to 2.4 o-rings. Has anyone tried those?
The bolts you're repeatedly removing and reinstalling are aluminum torque-to-yield bolts. They work by stretching upon installation. Once they've been removed, they need to replaced. The bolts probably would strip, but regardless, you've eliminated their ability to sustain torque and keep the seal tight. You need to order all new aluminum bolts, and may want to get new o-rings so you can install them properly this time.
What probably happened was you didn't lubricate your o-rings before installing them. You should wipe some oil on the o-rings that will be contacting oil regularly before putting them into place, otherwise the abrasion of being installed can damage them and make them fail. O-rings that will contact coolant should be lubricated with coolant prior to install. And lastly, you need to torque down all the bolts in alternating fashion as you reattach each part of the assembly. Don't tighten any one bolt down, just finger tight, then the next, then the next. Once they're all finger tight give them each a quarter turn or so at a time and keep going back and forth to ensure your gaskets are being compressed evenly. Otherwise they fail prematurely.
Holy Shitzu- I happen to the "lucky" guy with the 535xi.... What I was thinking it would be quick and painless... BUT... lol. I might as well make it a full day job and add walnut blasting as well lol... DAMN!
No need to completely remove the intake manifold. Just release the bolts half way and pull the manifold out enough to access the hidden bolt. Throttle body stays in place, charge pipes released only on throttle body side. Also, use pinch off clamps to contain oil and coolant, so no need to drain.
Did you need to pinch off the large coolant hose connecting into the oil filter housing? Did you pinch off both oil cooler lines?
It's hard to get the manifold out if you leave the throttle body in place because the TB will still be hooked onto the electrical box. Better to just disconnect it like he did here. Besides it will probably be nasty and need to be cleaned.
You don't even need to remove the coolant line. It'll come off enough to clean and replace gaskets while still attached if you're afraid of breaking it.
I just did this job on my car and when I was done it sat there and idled just fine. Then when I went to go for a test drive the car went into limp mode and says engine malfunction code p0016 and it’s talking about timing. What could have happened? Only thing I think I may have done wrong was accidentally dump oil and coolant all down the front of my car. Help (09 bmw 335xi n54 )
Good video your bad ass !!
ur the boss thank you!
Thank you for watching!
I’ve done this on my 2011 535i (n55) it is a bit pain in the neck to do. One thing I couldn’t find on mine was the radiator drain petcock, so had to drop radiator hose ... pretty messy. I believe BMW service bulletin says to drop the hose... can anyone chime in if there is an actual drain plug for the radiator? Thanks
I couldn't find a drain plug/petcock either. I popped the hose off. Got fkn coolant in my eyeball, too. Pretty messy way to do it but got the job done. I see tons of people selling and discussing the actual drain plug but the few people describing its location aren't referring to our cars specifically. In our cars the intercooler sits about where the drain plug is being shown.
@@allmycarsisbroke On my N54 I had to drop the intercooler to access the drain plug. But then the drain plugs are finicky, tend to break, and then drain VERY slow. I won't be doing that again. Just disconnect the lower radiator hose.
What size are th o rings?
Do you have to drain the oil..? Or can I just suck it out of the housing and top off?
No need to drain oil. Just remove the cover to the filter and let it drain. Then stop it up with rags.
Great video! do we need to lubricate the gaskets with some oil before placing them into the grooves?
yes, not oil. silicone or spit on it 😂
@@nikolaikiritchenko1802 LOL
Knocked this and a bunch of other maintenance items on my N54 powered e92 recently, and here's some advice: For the forward most bolt (next to the Mickey Mouse flange), it's worth replacing the flange with a metal one (which is what I did) or removing it to inspect and replace the oring while you have everything taken apart - this will also allow you to properly torque that hard-to-reach OFH bolt. If you've never done the OFHG, definitely also remove the serpentine belt and inspect it (replace it if it has any oil or coolant residue) and inspect and clean the pulleys and tensioner. Consider also upgrading the power steering pulley to an aluminum one.
I can’t get the bolt to thread under the manifold when I’m re installing the ofhg.. loosing my mind. It goes in back 1/4 way than gets real hard to turn. I don’t want to strip any threads or anything.
Loosing my mind please helps can you use anti seize as lube/grease?
Take it you finally got it in ok?
@@TheFrenchPug yes got it in and everything is well, no leaks. BUT was very nerve racking. Just cleaned the threads a little and screwed in the old one again and out couple times very lightly and new one threaded in nicely after some tinkering. Careful though fellas, don’t want strip the block lol.
@@robertkenney6002 Whew! Those situations give me heart attacks. I actually twisted off an injector bracket hold down bolt. Couldn't extract it and had to drill it out. I still have a steel self tapping wood bolt in there holding down the plate. I need to take it to someone who can fix the hole and put the helix coil in it so the OEM bolt will fit again. I had a heart attack when I screwed it up. But it's just Jerry rigged now on my perfectly running 2009 335i :(
do i drain the oil before i do this ?
You won't have to drain out all the oil but you'll want to siphon the oil in the oil filter housing to prevent mess.
will you be able to humpty dumpty back together again? LOL ridiculous amount of work to replace a gasket!
Good video! thanks / but is BMW engineering nuts!
How many billable hours is this job on this exact car?
It depends on the shop and how familiar they are with the replacement. It could be 5 hours or more.
Bottom e10 on the oil filter housing is stripped to sh*t, had to reassemble and put off the job, what should I do??
That's not fun, Luke! Did you use an ETorx socket on it? If you can get a pair of vice grips on it and try twisting it off we can get you a new bolt, otherwise you may have to drill or cut the bolt out!
FCP Euro It was pretty malleable for some reason when when I went in with the e10 ratcheting wrench it just got pretty bad. Thanks for the tip though I might not even worry about it, the housing doesn’t seem to be seeping or anything
@8:15 my driver side latch has an electrical plug. Where is that located???
What car do you have?
Do I need to prime the oil on n54 07. Do I add oil in housing?
You don't have to, but it doesn't hurt either.
Factory service manual says you should, and early n54s in particular sometimes spin a rod bearing after these gasket replacements. Some people believe it's because the oil wasn't primed.
There is only ONE way to do this properly and don't let anyone tell you differently. You must remove the electrical connectors from all 6 of your fuel injectors. The pour oil into the oil filter housing hole. Don't add more oil than you're supposed to, just make sure you dump a quart or two of the total oil being used to fiill the system through this hole. And it's a good idea to soak or swirl your new filter around in some fresh oil really quick before installing it. Lastly, make sure to lubricate your o-rings with oil before installing. The tiny one on the filter housing should be lubricated with oil before it's placed on the stick thing, and the big one should be lubricated with oil before being placed into the filter cap.
Once everything is tightened up and the fuel injectors are disconnected, get in the car and run the starter for 10 seconds without stopping, then wait 30-40 seconds, then repeat. Do this one more time (total of 30 seconds starter run time, two different waiting periods of 30-40 seconds). After this, you can reconnect your injectors and finish reassembling everything. Take the care for a long drive if possible, at least 20 minutes (or more) to get the oil all warmed up and flowing through the system. As always, don't go driving hard until your oil has warmed up fully.
And a last note: this guide was great but really took a shortcut refilling the coolant. It's very important to burp the system. And when refilling the coolant you should be checking the freeze protection, but if you just fill with 50/50 that's usually fine. But it's important to loosen the bleeder screw on the coolant reservoir--it looks like a giant phillips plastic screw right next to the upper hose running away from the housing. Open it wide and fill the coolant to nearly the top of the filler cap until the floating level bobber is fully floated to the top of the reservoir and there are no more bubbles coming out. then give the upper radiator hose a few squeezes, and re-tighten the bleeder screw, then reinstall the cap. Then afterwards, and this is extremely important: you must run the automatic burping mechanism to purge the cooling system of any air bubbles. To do that, put a battery charger on the battery unless you're sure it's brand new and fully charged, then get in the car, insert the key, keep foot off the brake and the clutch, and put the car into the "on" position by pressing the button (twice if necessary). You need to turn your heater on to the highest heat setting for both sides, but have the blower set to a volume of only one bar. Make sure it's set to blow face or feet but not the defroster. Once that's done, press the gas pedal all the way to the floor and hold it for 10 seconds until you hear the water pump activate. Once that begins, it will work on its own to pump water through the system and purge any air present. This can take about 20 minutes. Leave the car alone while it works (leave the key in place and don't turn it off). Once finished, you're safe to drive the car.
How does the engine ingest the serpentine the belt
If the belt breaks, and the engine is still running, the belt CAN get caught behind the crankshaft pulley and the force of the belt getting wrapped up in that small space CAN actually push the belt past the crack seal and into the engine. Once in the engine, it is quickly chewed up and distributed, in tiny pieces, all over the insides of your motor. A tear down and rebuild will then be part of your future.
say I spill some coolant from the radiator tube, after I top off on coolant should I bleed coolant or no.
MINEQWAFT yeah I would just to be safe only takes 12 minutes, 12 minutes is better than a whole repair if something just so happens so go wrong somehow
Why do I need the thermostat plugs? Why doesn't the kit include the o-rings on the oil cooler pipes? Should I replace the intake manifold gaskets too? You replace them in the video as well as the throttle body seal, but these parts are not in the kit.
Exact same thought! Not sure why I need new plugs or bolts but 2 $0.69 o rings would really save the day here.
Replace intake manifold gaskets and throttle body gasket
I’ve read that it is a requirement to prime the engine after this procedure. Apparently there is a ton of folks that have experienced a seized engine. What is FCP Euro position on this matter?
It certainly won't hurt to prime the engine!
@@fcpeuro how do you prime the oil system im going to be doing this on my 2011 135i keep hearing about the damage done to some n55 engines your opinion plz thank you
@@pnum9618 did u ever find out how?
How much does a job like this cost?
So I just did this on my 2008 535i and now my car is showing 2 error messages “engine malfunction. Reduced power” and “malfunction in transmission” . My car is starting but it takes longer than normal and it drives but it won’t shift and acceleration is pretty weak. Do you have any suggestions as to what could be going wrong?
Hi thenicknetwork, these issues sound unrelated to the oil filter housings gasket replacement. It would be best to bring your car to your local service center to get properly diagnosed.
@User968 yeah it wasn't there before. OBD2 brought back a crank shaft position sensor error. we cleaned a lot of gunk and oil residue off which may have gotten down in the sensor or somehting
So an update Incase anyone runs into this issue: as I mentioned OBD2 brought back a crankshaft position sensor error so we went to replace it and noticed it wasn’t connected. It wasn’t one that we intentionally disconnected so The thought is while putting the manifold back in, it was pretty tough and required a little force and while doing that, we bumped into the crank shaft position sensor which caused it to come disconnected. After reconnecting it everything cranked up fine and the errors were gone.
I know I’m a bit late to the party, but I had similar issues with my 535i after repair (done the repair myself). I had to disconnect the ecu connectors and apparently when put it back together one of the connectors didn’t get fully seated... after getting them properly connected, all the issues were gone...
Anyone figure out where to get the 2 o-rings?
dealer or worlpac auto parts
Has anyone tried the process to drop the alternator to get the back housing bolt? Seams easier that removing the intake.
All you have to do is remove the intake manifold bolts, then lift up the intake manifold while moving it to the right just enough to get clearance to the bolt. You don’t even have to remove the charge pipe. It makes the job so much easier. Under and hour to do. This guy did extra lol. Sorry fc euro, I do buy parts from there tho 👍🏼
I have and you are correct. It is SO much easier.
ok I see way he takes the whole assembly out, because int he e60 the bolt that holds the coolerandits lines to the oil cooler is up side down ,,
I did this work my E90 N54 but I got shaky ad rough idling afterwards. I double checked all the air intake components are properly installed and did a clean oil change but still the problem persists. I get a 0x3100 boost pressure build up blocked error code. Any one have any idea what could've gone wrong?
Did you ever figure this out? Only thing I can imagine is the MAP sensor is disconnected on the charge pipe if you took it off. I've never gotten that code. Only loss of boost pressure. Did you disconnect a vacuum line from the throttle body?
@@TheFrenchPug I checked the MAP sensor, it's fully intact. I checked all the vacuum lines, took apart all the air inlet components and put back together. Checked the ignition coils too, thinking one may have came loose when moving the manifold. Nothing fixed it, although the rough idle is not so bad so I'll just leave it for now as I don't even drive the car much anymore.
Hi, anyone in Western NC doing 2008 E60 N54 side jobs?
I need my OFH replaced and other stuff too.
Highly appreciate any leads
N52 next !
Same thing just dont remove the intake manifold?
Is 22 newts equal to 16 foot pounds?
Use google. 🤦🏻♂️
nice
I disconnected the throttle body and now when it turn the car on it just revs up and down and doesnt stop
Wtf would u do that
How much that Job will cost,?
It will cost you the price of the gaskets. A shop will charge you up to $900. It will only take them a couple hours in reality.
i love your videos. but someone who is new and a visual learner had a thought i think that’d make your videos 100% better that could potentially put your DIY videos over everyone else! whoever your edits your video would have to be good tho lol.
what if you included your 3D diagrams of what your changing highlighting the parts you’re touching at the same time cuz these angle points and what your doing is kind of hard to see without me pulling up a diagram watching side by side
That's a great suggestion, Samson! We have been trying to incorporate things like that in our recent videos and will continue to do so! Thank you!
Great suggestion
FCP Euro please get better Lighting on your demonstrations. Thank you I know you mean well did I see amateurs with better lighting. There's so many hot spots and dark spots and all your videos hear it I know you mean well
most of this is completely unnecessary to change this gasket. Don't mess with the radiator, be creative to unbolt the hoses from the housing. Don't drain shit.
I just finished this job. And fluid loss was so negligible, I didn't need to top off.
I didn't remove the charge pipe, just pulled the two bolts from the middle of it, to be able to move it. Did not remove the throttle body, there plenty of room to move it aside.
Coolant hose in the front. I replaced those fittings with aluminum ones. I don't have issues disconnecting them... You should do that too.
Just take the plastic off, remove/move hoses and lines that are in the way of the manifold.
Remove oil cooler. And do your work.
I only messed with my charge pipe, because the leaking oil shredded my belt.
If you are also changing your belt, do it, after you everything taken apart; and before it's going back together for the extra space. Helps with cleaning up the mess, and this point in the process you won't be leaking fluids on your new belt.
Took me about three hours. Not counting cleaning up the mess from the leak. That was maybe an extra hour.
Note. If your tool kit isn't as nice as mine, it will take longer. But you'll be alright. ... And I have access to a huge supply of break clean to aid with cleaning.
Get it girl! Thanks for the heads up I'm about to start this job.
Il be reading this again very soon
@@kaelanburke2097 I just did another one of these yesterday. If you need to ask anything, you can Facebook me, under the same name (Iowa).
I don't do videos, because trolls.
Hi Emily, great pointers! Quick question please: on a N55 with 75k, would you automatically change the belt (I am thinking need to based on amount of oil mess around) and what special tools needed?
Thanks!
@@hgarti919 i only really trust a belt for about 100k... Given the cost, yeah, change it. ... Just for the belt, torx bits. One for the tensioner, and one to loosen the boost tube from the the center of the engine block.
This car doesn't really need any special belt tool. A long rachet is all I use. If you don't have a lift... A second person might be helpful. This isn't the easiest belt to get back on, by yourself.
So if I follow this video, i might as well do valve*** cover gasket, oil change, oil filter change, air filter change, coolant flush, upper coolant line change, thermostat, water pump, serpentine belt & tensioner, and of course oil filter housing.
Head cover gasket?
Turbos, engine mounts, oil pan Etc I say 100,000 miles needs the engine out service subframe bushings, control arms and a engine bay cleaning with the engine out.
I can't get my stock charge pipe to connect back to the manifold
The previous owner of my 2010 535i E60 had the oil filter housing gasket replaced, but whoever did the work did not clean up all the oil that had leaked down the front of the engine. Over a few months, maybe 1200 miles, the oil began to coat the belt and pulleys, causing the belt to snap catastrophically. Make sure, whether you do it or the repair shop does it, the oil gets cleaned off. Also had oil build up in the radiator and intercooler. I removed them just to clean them.
P.S. - Now I'm having to do the oil filter housing gasket again. That is, if it was actually done like the previous owner said or he was just lying to sell it.
How would one go about cleaning the remaining oil?
If only this video was made 8 months ago...
Poor front main seal:,(
I did the same job in june and my car still leaks unfortunately.
Mr.He-Rock-Ohh!!! Same here, I changed mine out like 6 months ago and it started leaking again 😔
I have nothing but hatred for my car now I've had many Subarus and have never had this issue
Mr.He-Rock-Ohh!!! They can definitely be frustrating! They're so amazing when problem free but definitely got their share of issues. Stick with it brotha, it'll pay off 😊
@@micraw714 But they are pretty much never problem free. Enjoy emptying your wallet on a greedy companies planned obsolescence.
@@brandonward2619 ?
Advice -
I 100% recommended using an E10 socket to get this done, if you try using an 8mm wrench on the lower screw you’re likely going to strip it.
If you plan on removing the lower coolant hose to access that lower bolt, it’s very likely going to break; order the aluminum coolant hose flange off FCP and save yourself a huge hassle
Thanks for the tips and advice, Ben!
I’ve seen this done a why shorter way smh
Desmond Campbell exactly
is there a video that shows the shorter way? thx
nope nope nope nope.... 😂
And the antifreeze should be blue dam it
I know it will happen eventually but I am not looking forward to doing this job.
Hopefully, this video has you prepared to sort it out once it does start leaking! Let us know if you have any questions, Chris!
It is recommended that you not reuse the plastic radiator drain plug. This project was at least the second time the plug in my vehicle was loosened and the top twisted off in my hand. Going to FCP Euro to order a replacement, in the Product Information paragraph, they comment the part is "One time use only, should be replaced when installing a new radiator or when doing a coolant flush." They are correct. :-)
because they're typically plastic, it's definitely recomended to ensure proper sealing
i literally cringed when you grabbed that plastic radiator plug with the channel locks.. BALLSY...
That's just plain out nuts that u have to go thru all that to change a 10$ gasket BMW should be ashamed. I got a n52 so much easier don't have to remove manifold...
fuck bmw all the extra work to change these parts bmw makes it so hard to do it your self
This guy is removing way too many unnecessary parts. This is definitely not how it’s done.
BMW should get fined for this.. bunch of num nuts
Wow what a hell of a job, looks like Im going to eat the cost of the repairs $$$$😩
No!!! What car do you have?