Thanks for the video bud. I removed my valve cover recently, and had a lot of wires and things unplugged. I found my problem was the little actuator hose next to the plug was dangling by the engine. Hose was fine. Connected hose to the nipple and all is well. Engine 2.0 - 2007 ford focus
Very good men some guy's don't understand is not to change a part a real mechanic discover how the part work if is broke can be fix or replace two thumbs UP very good
why did u pay 1160? general search on google says labor at least 300-500 and the part’s price.. did u misdiagnose? try fixing sum else thinking it was that?
In many cases a smoke test can identify most , but not all , vacuum leaks and save you some labor hours . Great video though . Thanks for posting . My hats off to all of you guys that post these videos .
Not for the small ones in the front but you do for the long ones. I tried finding purchase on the long hoses while intact and I couldn't feel them/get under the actuator enough to feel them.
Hi Jacob, great present and pace... could you please let me know how you would remove the actuator and replace the actuator, as I was told that the actuator is the most common problem with a Ford Focus 2006 stuck open imrc please get back to me as soon as possible thanks for your help really appreciate it
But anyway, thanks for the video. I am chasing this stupid code on my Mazda Speed3. I pulled the intercooler off and I soeceted the hoses and they seemed fine but I think I will try testing the vacuum and electrical for the valve.
I have this problem too. No driveability issues. I can see the actuators engage fine. I did replace the solenoids problem went went away. Then came back. I cleaned the engine with seafoam problem went and came back. I got a new solenoid to test and same issue. Actuator and line seem to be holding vacuum
Jabo The Mechanic im thinking its that but driveability seems fine and i looked and tested the actuator seems to be moving perfectly smooth and fine (flaps)
Jabo The Mechanic im not hearing any noises, some people say it makes like a diesel. I do see both actuator working . At idle they both turn on and close the plates. Do you think maybe a vacuum line collpases under heat or the actuator binds when it gets hot? Every so often the CEL turns off as well.
Jabo The Mechanic yea im testing that theory too i ordered new solenoids on amazon. One is on back order. Installed one made zero difference so i returned it
So frustrating to have a car running fine but with engine light on..because of the "2020" thing this Focus has been running for over 3 years with engine light on, sadly now motor vehicle was insisting on emissions and of course "henry" failed. What a hassle. Btw, Henry is 19 years old so I am thinking the hoses might be the glitch. Thanks for the video
I have same issue! I replaced my solenoid problem went away for a week code came back. I did a test with a syringe to introduce vacuum. One of the actuator moved the other doesnt allow any vaccum to go in
I have 2007 1.8 duratec. Eml on with code p2008. Manifold runner contol open circuit. Mechanic has swapped wires on solinoids and so far no problems. On start up i can see flaps move. Is this ok to leave like this and what exactly has it done.thanks
Will this cause the car not to move? I'm getting this code. My car will turn on, but when I put it in drive or reverse and press the gas, it won't move. It might briefly jerk an inch or 2 but that's it.
2005 ford f350 5.4.. p2006 replaced the actuator then 2004 came up replaced actuator again inder warranty and whole intake manifold assembly aswell code still comes up.. no vaccum leaks just put in a new motor... any help will be highly appreciated.. yes actuator works using a scan tool can open and close it as it should
Heya i gota 08 ford fusion 2.3l. I just replaced a completely thrashed intake manifold. I replaced both accuators, egr valve, both solinoids on the top and the hoses. 1 thing i didnt replace was the Map sensor at the bottom of the manifold. Looked to still be good.. need help here
Is this hard to disect/take apart and check yourself if you have no mechanical experience, ive fixed a couple things on my car on my own but this is bigger. Ive taken it to mechanics a couple times but sadly, have learned not to trust some of their work, also can i buy all this online😅
Ok so mine say replace intake manifold runner control actuator. When I google it it shows me that one piece where the hose are connected to. Can I just replace those or do I need to take every step u took in this video
The reason why I took it off was for demonstrating purpose only. Test first to make sure whats the issue. Hose, solenoid, actuator, or the swirl plates
I changed the IMRC valves on my 2006 ford fusion because I the engine was making a thicking noise when the engine was running. The check engine light did not come on before I replaced the IMRC. I'm still hearing the thicking noise and I'm thinking about replacing the Intake manifold but I'll like to check the vacuum lines before I do so. Is there a way to access the bottom end of the hose without having to take out the Intake Manifold?
So is there a check engine light now. For the imrc valves it's normal for them to sound loud. And yes you can change the vacuum lines without removing the manifold. Don't forget to subscribe ☺️.
No the check engine light is not on but I noticed the yellow actuator lever with the black plastic attached to it appears to be loose so I'm guessing I need a new intake manifold. @@JaboTheMechanic
@@Bonezy-wb1et if there is no tension on the lever than it's bad but if it's moving with a little bit of tension than the manifold is good. Do you have any pictures of the or videos
@@JaboTheMechanic th-cam.com/video/HDUWx1zoTzs/w-d-xo.html. Attached is the video of the thicking noise and the yellow actuator lever. The flap actuator is down when the engine is started ( I'm guessing that's what it's suppose to do). The noise goes away when the hose to the IMRC is disconnected (Flap actuator moves up). do you think I need a new Intake Manifold?
Sorry video won't load up. But its suppose to work like that. That's another way to see if they are working or not by unplugging the hose to see if the rattle noise goes away. If yes then it's working fine
So there are two Ford Intake Manifold Runner Control Vacuum Valves and EGR solinoid also can fail to cause hesitation. Only part that can be hard to remove is the EGR valve as it has larger nut holding underneath. On early Focus models. the 2.3L has water hook up so you have to drain out coolant. Code 301 & 2006 intake runner stuck. Could this be the actuator arm? BTW the local Mechanic took two Labor hours to dianoise this problem. What is your opinion of their ability to preform as auto techs? The quote to repair in San Jose Keyes Auto shop was 1,349.00 I felt I was being shook down and decided to make the repairs myself. Waiting on parts. ($85.00 via Ebay) (Engine Lite came on to report these problems and the hesitation as been with the car for months; just getting worse).
That price seems to high to replace that part. Should be a walk in the park if you have the right tools. I would personally buy the parts and do them myself.
@@JaboTheMechanic So how should I approach this misfire issue? I have ordered a second control V Valve. From where would the misfire in C1 be caused by? And Yes I was being hood winked by this shop and I was sharing the clear fact that the parts were small and easy to install. They also removed a side flange under the front passageger side exposing some parts and did not resemble it when I declined the work they called and said it was put back together and ready for pick up. So I paid 250.00 for them to tell me I needed cheap easy parts and tore some of my car apart without restoring it the way I brought it. Horrible that shops can cheat the public and have no respect for customers that choose to refuse work after paying hundreds for 15mins work. Shameful.
Thanks for the advice. Will do some research and see if I can locate the misfire. Should be the whole Coil array or one of the cylinder spikes directly. I'll let you know.
So if I have vacuum going up to my bank 1 solenoid but no vacuum going out to the runner control.....my solenoid is bad? Or vacuum line? I tested vacuum to the runner control and it activates the blades but there’s no vacuum coming out of the port to the runner control...so bad solenoid because it’s not delivering vacuum??
Yes the solenoid is bad. You can bench test the solenoid by adding power and ground to the solenoid while its unplugged from the vehicle. This will 100% let you know the solenoid is bad
I was wondering if you could help me diagnosis. I have a 2006 Ford Fusion 2.3 showing P2004 code. The solenoids are working (I unhook hoses while it's running and the actuators will return to default position), vacuum tests good, I replaced the intake (came with new actuators) because the butterflies in the old one were rattling around, replaced PCV valve and hose, and MAP sensor, but the code still comes back.
@@JaboTheMechanic it seems like the pcm is shutting off that actuator. it will close the runner control until the engine heats up a certain amount, then it opens it, causing the light to come on.
I noticed that you briefly touched on drivability regarding this issue. How would this code impact driving in total? I noticed my car had trouble starting the day after I checked the code and received p2004. Thanks in advance.
I have this code on a 2003 Ford Focus. Once you get the vacuum leak fixed how long does it take for the code to disappear? How long did it take for you to remove the intake manifold?
You would need to clear it with the scanner you can find a local auto parts store that could clear it for you for free or you can try disconnecting the battery and wait 10 minutes and see if it resets hope this helps. Don't forget to subscribe
Only place I found the swirl flaps was in the UK for $40/per. Cant get the 3mm square bar anywhere though. I just removed them and the bar, left the actuator... it runs fine. Reset my computer just in case.
You could delete the flaps altogether and actuator bar, but leaving the flap housing (they hold the intake gaskets in). Plug the rod hole to prevent vacuum leak and be done with the problem. You'll lose marginal fuel efficiency at low rpm, but the car's old enough that it's negligible anyway.
I have the same code and just replaced my PCV Valve on my 04 Ford Focus, 2.0L and I don’t want to take the manifold off again... But do I need to in order to replace all of these things or?
Will an intake manifold stuck open error cause a car not to start? I had this error, and car will not start. It tries, makes a knocking sound under the hood and fails. Battery has been tested and is good.
ride is a 2007 ford escape 2.3 l. The intake manifold control runner closes when the car is started but after the thing warms up for a little while it comes back up again and stays there. What is supposed to happen --your advice is much appreciated Jabo.
I’ve been chasing the P2004 code for a while and have replaced the entire intake manifold (new vacuum lines, solenoids etc) and still keep getting this. Any ideas to diagnose further?
I have an 08 Milan and I have had the whole intake manifold replaced 3 times and the code keeps coming back. I have replaced the 2 things at the top too... Getting ready to trade or sell it because it is causing poor gas mileage.
I think it comes as a complete unit inside the manifold. Unfortunately you just have to replace the whole manifold. Should be under $200 for the part tho
Think it can a lil bc the engine working too hard when the flap malfunction if driving for a long time ....but more than likely u need to see that the cooling fan working...and replace thermostat every 75,000 miles to be safe...
Thanks for the video bud. I removed my valve cover recently, and had a lot of wires and things unplugged. I found my problem was the little actuator hose next to the plug was dangling by the engine. Hose was fine. Connected hose to the nipple and all is well. Engine 2.0 - 2007 ford focus
Very good men some guy's don't understand is not to change a part a real mechanic discover how the part work if is broke can be fix or replace two thumbs UP very good
wish I watched this a month ago. paid 1160 for repairs to this. thank u for the info. will be checking youtube before taking to shop.
why did u pay 1160? general search on google says labor at least 300-500 and the part’s price.. did u misdiagnose? try fixing sum else thinking it was that?
$1160 is probably what the vehicle is worth today 🤦♂️
In many cases a smoke test can identify most , but not all , vacuum leaks and save you some labor hours . Great video though . Thanks for posting . My hats off to all of you guys that post these videos .
Thanks
Very helpful for possible bad pipes. Good Job
Do I have to take the entire manifold out to replace the tiny vacuum tubes?
Not for the small ones in the front but you do for the long ones. I tried finding purchase on the long hoses while intact and I couldn't feel them/get under the actuator enough to feel them.
Hi Jacob, great present and pace... could you please let me know how you would remove the actuator and replace the actuator, as I was told that the actuator is the most common problem with a Ford Focus 2006 stuck open imrc please get back to me as soon as possible thanks for your help really appreciate it
But anyway, thanks for the video. I am chasing this stupid code on my Mazda Speed3. I pulled the intercooler off and I soeceted the hoses and they seemed fine but I think I will try testing the vacuum and electrical for the valve.
Yeah. Use a vacuum gauge like i did. Hopes this helped. You are welcome
Great video brother. Keep it up
Thanks.
It's a helpful video my question is what activates the solenoids to work, what activates the runner solenoid one and other one near fan side?
Thanks, I was going crazy about this code
Thank you. Very helpful video.
04 focus ford no longer manufacturing intake manifold. You can buy parts to fix the manifold or junk yard
I have this problem too. No driveability issues. I can see the actuators engage fine. I did replace the solenoids problem went went away. Then came back. I cleaned the engine with seafoam problem went and came back. I got a new solenoid to test and same issue. Actuator and line seem to be holding vacuum
The blade runners could be broken you would have to take off the intake to make sure that they are not loose or broken
Jabo The Mechanic im thinking its that but driveability seems fine and i looked and tested the actuator seems to be moving perfectly smooth and fine (flaps)
Jabo The Mechanic im not hearing any noises, some people say it makes like a diesel. I do see both actuator working . At idle they both turn on and close the plates. Do you think maybe a vacuum line collpases under heat or the actuator binds when it gets hot? Every so often the CEL turns off as well.
Could be your solenoids getting stuck
Jabo The Mechanic yea im testing that theory too i ordered new solenoids on amazon. One is on back order. Installed one made zero difference so i returned it
P2008 p2008 p2004 p2004 i get double code one of the lil solenoid was bad and replace but engine light stays on so im thinking something else wrong
vacuum leaks per video
EXCELLENT VIDEO. Thanks!!
I also have the high revving at start up. what are and where are solenoids you are reffering to that may need to be changed?
Thanks for your video. 👍
Glad it helped!
Checking the vacuum hoses before pulling the intake manifold would have been very wise.
Alike man good job facil explication thanks
So frustrating to have a car running fine but with engine light on..because of the "2020" thing this Focus has been running for over 3 years with engine light on, sadly now motor vehicle was insisting on emissions and of course "henry" failed. What a hassle. Btw, Henry is 19 years old so I am thinking the hoses might be the glitch.
Thanks for the video
Very good demo
Thanks this helped a ton!
I have same issue! I replaced my solenoid problem went away for a week code came back. I did a test with a syringe to introduce vacuum. One of the actuator moved the other doesnt allow any vaccum to go in
Than you have a leak
Jabo The Mechanic it holds vacuum but i dont hear any movement from the actuator . Im thinking its stuck
Ok. It be the actuator or the flaps
Any vid on how exactly you removed the intake manifold out?
What is that little white lever the acuator connected to? I can't find one anywhere
I need to know where a couple of vacuum lines go
Could a bad pcm cause it too i replaced the manifold and all hoses and both solenoids. Wires look good maybe the pcm doesnt read the signal ?
My intake runners are stuck open it starts up and idles to high but still runs ok .
Do you have any recommendations for fixing this issue with a 2008 Ford Fusion?
Same 2009 Ford Fusion. Does your car engine shakes and shut off by itself?
Great video
Thank you brou help me figure the problem
You are welcome! Glad it helped!
thank you very good
Glad it helped!
Hello. Is this same location on the 2.3 Esxape Hybrid
Fantastico!!!
I have 2007 1.8 duratec. Eml on with code p2008. Manifold runner contol open circuit. Mechanic has swapped wires on solinoids and so far no problems. On start up i can see flaps move. Is this ok to leave like this and what exactly has it done.thanks
Unplug the 2 solenoid and the 2 tube on each of them and u will have a fine running car...
Will this cause the car not to move? I'm getting this code. My car will turn on, but when I put it in drive or reverse and press the gas, it won't move. It might briefly jerk an inch or 2 but that's it.
Unplug the 2 solenoid and 2 tube on each of it....this will make all flap open... To produce full power...
2005 ford f350 5.4.. p2006 replaced the actuator then 2004 came up replaced actuator again inder warranty and whole intake manifold assembly aswell code still comes up.. no vaccum leaks just put in a new motor... any help will be highly appreciated.. yes actuator works using a scan tool can open and close it as it should
Heya i gota 08 ford fusion 2.3l. I just replaced a completely thrashed intake manifold. I replaced both accuators, egr valve, both solinoids on the top and the hoses. 1 thing i didnt replace was the Map sensor at the bottom of the manifold. Looked to still be good.. need help here
I'm stuck too I believe the ecm might need to be repaired as it sends the signal.
I have this problem but I can't find the hoses anywhere...
Anybody know where to buy and what diameter/size they are?
Is this hard to disect/take apart and check yourself if you have no mechanical experience, ive fixed a couple things on my car on my own but this is bigger. Ive taken it to mechanics a couple times but sadly, have learned not to trust some of their work, also can i buy all this online😅
Awsome had the code watch his video and found a cracked vaccuum line
Glad it helped!
Havent turned wrenches for years buddy pulled the code but you led me right to the problem thanks again!!
My pleasure!
You have any video how to take of intake manifolds on 06 ford fusion 2.3L
Sorry no i dont
@@JaboTheMechanic ok. I dont know if is to hard . To take out
@@bigboycervantes5240 could you send me a picture of it
@@JaboTheMechanic u have u number
How many screws need to take out jabo. On ford fusion 06
Where can I buy the hose? And what's the diameter?
Ok so mine say replace intake manifold runner control actuator. When I google it it shows me that one piece where the hose are connected to. Can I just replace those or do I need to take every step u took in this video
The reason why I took it off was for demonstrating purpose only. Test first to make sure whats the issue. Hose, solenoid, actuator, or the swirl plates
I changed the IMRC valves on my 2006 ford fusion because I the engine was making a thicking noise when the engine was running. The check engine light did not come on before I replaced the IMRC. I'm still hearing the thicking noise and I'm thinking about replacing the Intake manifold but I'll like to check the vacuum lines before I do so. Is there a way to access the bottom end of the hose without having to take out the Intake Manifold?
So is there a check engine light now. For the imrc valves it's normal for them to sound loud. And yes you can change the vacuum lines without removing the manifold. Don't forget to subscribe ☺️.
No the check engine light is not on but I noticed the yellow actuator lever with the black plastic attached to it appears to be loose so I'm guessing I need a new intake manifold. @@JaboTheMechanic
@@Bonezy-wb1et if there is no tension on the lever than it's bad but if it's moving with a little bit of tension than the manifold is good. Do you have any pictures of the or videos
@@JaboTheMechanic th-cam.com/video/HDUWx1zoTzs/w-d-xo.html. Attached is the video of the thicking noise and the yellow actuator lever. The flap actuator is down when the engine is started ( I'm guessing that's what it's suppose to do). The noise goes away when the hose to the IMRC is disconnected (Flap actuator moves up). do you think I need a new Intake Manifold?
Sorry video won't load up. But its suppose to work like that. That's another way to see if they are working or not by unplugging the hose to see if the rattle noise goes away. If yes then it's working fine
So there are two Ford Intake Manifold Runner Control Vacuum Valves and EGR solinoid also can fail to cause hesitation. Only part that can be hard to remove is the EGR valve as it has larger nut holding underneath. On early Focus models. the 2.3L has water hook up so you have to drain out coolant. Code 301 & 2006 intake runner stuck. Could this be the actuator arm? BTW the local Mechanic took two Labor hours to dianoise this problem. What is your opinion of their ability to preform as auto techs? The quote to repair in San Jose Keyes Auto shop was 1,349.00 I felt I was being shook down and decided to make the repairs myself. Waiting on parts. ($85.00 via Ebay) (Engine Lite came on to report these problems and the hesitation as been with the car for months; just getting worse).
That price seems to high to replace that part. Should be a walk in the park if you have the right tools. I would personally buy the parts and do them myself.
And as for the car running rough you have a p0301 which means cylinder 1 has a miss fire. I've had p2006 and the car would run great
@@JaboTheMechanic So how should I approach this misfire issue? I have ordered a second control V Valve. From where would the misfire in C1 be caused by? And Yes I was being hood winked by this shop and I was sharing the clear fact that the parts were small and easy to install. They also removed a side flange under the front passageger side exposing some parts and did not resemble it when I declined the work they called and said it was put back together and ready for pick up. So I paid 250.00 for them to tell me I needed cheap easy parts and tore some of my car apart without restoring it the way I brought it. Horrible that shops can cheat the public and have no respect for customers that choose to refuse work after paying hundreds for 15mins work. Shameful.
Here's my number if you want to call me so I can explain it better.
Thanks for the advice. Will do some research and see if I can locate the misfire. Should be the whole Coil array or one of the cylinder spikes directly. I'll let you know.
So if I have vacuum going up to my bank 1 solenoid but no vacuum going out to the runner control.....my solenoid is bad? Or vacuum line?
I tested vacuum to the runner control and it activates the blades but there’s no vacuum coming out of the port to the runner control...so bad solenoid because it’s not delivering vacuum??
Yes the solenoid is bad. You can bench test the solenoid by adding power and ground to the solenoid while its unplugged from the vehicle. This will 100% let you know the solenoid is bad
Does this apply to a 2009 Mazda 3 2.3?
I was wondering if you could help me diagnosis. I have a 2006 Ford Fusion 2.3 showing P2004 code. The solenoids are working (I unhook hoses while it's running and the actuators will return to default position), vacuum tests good, I replaced the intake (came with new actuators) because the butterflies in the old one were rattling around, replaced PCV valve and hose, and MAP sensor, but the code still comes back.
Ok email me your phone number. Chrisjabo1991@gmail.com
@@JaboTheMechanic it seems like the pcm is shutting off that actuator. it will close the runner control until the engine heats up a certain amount, then it opens it, causing the light to come on.
This is exactly my problem new Intake manifold and actuators but this code won’t go away and everything is working good.
Thanks for this vid. those manifold are a pain in the ass to remove. you mentioned you can remove the front end to make it easier?
Thank you
You are welcome
I noticed that you briefly touched on drivability regarding this issue. How would this code impact driving in total? I noticed my car had trouble starting the day after I checked the code and received p2004.
Thanks in advance.
As for drivability car ran a little hesitant and consumed more gas.
This code came up at same time as p2008. Is it the same thing?
I had a high rev concern on start up with the 2004 code hate to have to pull the whole manifold for that 👍🇺🇸🔧🔴🚘📽
Glad it helped!
What's the brand of the vacuum pump?
I have this code on a 2003 Ford Focus. Once you get the vacuum leak fixed how long does it take for the code to disappear? How long did it take for you to remove the intake manifold?
You would need to clear it with the scanner you can find a local auto parts store that could clear it for you for free or you can try disconnecting the battery and wait 10 minutes and see if it resets hope this helps. Don't forget to subscribe
so what happens if your flaps are damage? can you replace just the flaps ? or do you have to replace the whole intake manifold?
I do believe they sale the flaps by themselves. And if you dont want to deal with the hassle you can buy a new manifold. Shouldn't be that expensive
If they are damaged than dont drive it you run a chance of them breaking apart and causing a bigger damage
Only place I found the swirl flaps was in the UK for $40/per. Cant get the 3mm square bar anywhere though.
I just removed them and the bar, left the actuator... it runs fine. Reset my computer just in case.
You could delete the flaps altogether and actuator bar, but leaving the flap housing (they hold the intake gaskets in). Plug the rod hole to prevent vacuum leak and be done with the problem. You'll lose marginal fuel efficiency at low rpm, but the car's old enough that it's negligible anyway.
i got this code but is look like is all going all rigth what the isue if i got a leak ?
I have a 2012 Ford Fusion and it makes a noise it could be the maniful
I have the same code and just replaced my PCV Valve on my 04 Ford Focus, 2.0L and I don’t want to take the manifold off again... But do I need to in order to replace all of these things or?
No you dont. I took it off for demonstration purposes only.
Ye my mercury milan is reading the same code..was it expensive to fix??
@@gwest6511 no its very cheap
@@JaboTheMechanic thanx man..my car is burning alot of gas.. My code read ps2004
@@gwest6511 yeah make sure that solenoid is no bad as well
Will an intake manifold stuck open error cause a car not to start? I had this error, and car will not start. It tries, makes a knocking sound under the hood and fails. Battery has been tested and is good.
If its making a knocking sound. Than your motor is bad
ride is a 2007 ford escape 2.3 l. The intake manifold control runner closes when the car is started but after the thing warms up for a little while it comes back up again and stays there. What is supposed to happen --your advice is much appreciated Jabo.
Take off the whole front end??
Are the flaps supposed to be open or closed when the manifold is removed from the head?
Open
@@JaboTheMechanic thanks!
Sr i have a code p2004 on .my ford fusion sel 2.3 . I have IMRC ..WHRE IS LOCATED IN THE CAR AND HOW TO REMPLACE . CAN U HELP ME . THANKS.
I can guide you through it. Whats your phone number
Buen video es difiicil cambiar la mangera?. Jabo.
No es facil de cambiar
@@JaboTheMechanic se necesita quitar el bumper. Tengo un ford fusion 06. La mangera se la puedo quitar por abajo. Jabo ??
I’ve been chasing the P2004 code for a while and have replaced the entire intake manifold (new vacuum lines, solenoids etc) and still keep getting this. Any ideas to diagnose further?
Are you getting power to the solenoids
Jabo The Mechanic Yes. Solenoid has power and operates the actuator.
Than the flaps are most likey bad
@@JaboTheMechanic valuable info right here! 🤙🏾
How does the ECU know the runner is stuck open? Is there a sensor located on the actuator?
It gets it feed back from the o2 sensors to see how its running. And the computer will determine what is cause a problem.
New intake, hoses, and vacuum switches. Still have this fault code. What else could cause p2004 ?
@@rtarjwells what year is your car and info
I have an 08 Milan and I have had the whole intake manifold replaced 3 times and the code keeps coming back. I have replaced the 2 things at the top too... Getting ready to trade or sell it because it is causing poor gas mileage.
Are you getting power to the solenoids
@@JaboTheMechanic How do I test that. I just paid $300 for a new intake from Ford to be put on 2 days ago.
I have another video that will show you how to test it
Jabo The Mechanic is there anyway that we can communicate directly?
Yes email me with your number.
Chrisjabo1991@gmail.com
Can i take off the hoses without removing anything else
Yes you can
@@JaboTheMechanic is it hard to change the intake manifold runner control??
No its not
Can you pass inspection with that one code
Bro.thank you.that relly help me....one question.?its 2005 allmost the same.?
It should be the same
Thank you sir.gracias amigo....!!!
Bro Its this the razon the cars shots off well ranning.our went i get a red light.?
@@yosuegonzalez8895 cual es el problema
De nada. No te olvides de suscribirte para seguir viendo lo que subo.
I'm having the same code on my fusion, not sure if if thae valves are supposed to be free or closed while the car is on. Help?
The one on the left when unplugged closes and the one on the right seems to be always closed even when unplugged
Did you do a vacuum test to see if the plunger is actuating
Code P2008 will also come up for this issue.
Could be. But
I have same code .on my 06 ford fusion. Is hard to take of manifold off ? O what you think is of problem sr.
No it os not. You dont have to take them off in order to replace the vacuum lines
@@JaboTheMechanic but i need for change of vaccum lines under of car ?
@@bigboycervantes5240 you dont have to take off the manifold to change the lines
@@JaboTheMechanic ok sr thank you very much .have a nice day
@@bigboycervantes5240 you are welcome you too
Do you know where you can purchase the flaps and actuator for the flaps ?
Info on the car
@@JaboTheMechanichuh?
where I can purchase them?
@@W0167338 whats the year make and model so i can look for you
2007 Ford focus SES 2.0 4Door sedan
Jabo si cambio la hose necesito meterla por el mismo lado.
Seria mejor. Si no le estorba a nada esta bien.
@@JaboTheMechanic y si comprara.una hose mas grande y la paso por otro lado esta bien o tiene que ser la misma hose
No importa que tan larga sea. Lo importante es que el diametro de adentro sea el mismo para que no tengas leaks.
My code was p1518 that the runner was open , any ideas?
The runners could be stuck
Thanks
You are welcome. Don't forget to subscribe ☺️.
where did you get buy the hoses?
Any auto parts will have those hoses. They are under vacuum lines or under windshield wiper hoses
Anyone have a source or Ford part # for the flap assemblies?
I think it comes as a complete unit inside the manifold. Unfortunately you just have to replace the whole manifold. Should be under $200 for the part tho
How long should I schedule time wise if I have to remove the intake manifold?
Well as to quote for labor time I am basing this off a 2004 2.3 dual overhead cam a quotes 2.5 hours to do the job
4.5 weeks if I do it
Can this problem cause overheating?
No
Think it can a lil bc the engine working too hard when the flap malfunction if driving for a long time ....but more than likely u need to see that the cooling fan working...and replace thermostat every 75,000 miles to be safe...
I tried everything and still can’t figure it out :(
Hermano es lo mismo en un 06 ford fusion sel.2.3
Si yo tango una video par es. Una mazda/ford es lo mismo
@@JaboTheMechanic es dificil cambiar la hose ?
No es faciè
p2008
But my car will die!
Stalling? Be more specific
But my car will die!