Check your hoses and wiring harness before buying a replacement solenoid. This video made it easier for me to find the solenoids, but just taking a quick look at the short vacuum lines going from them to the actuators, they were both badly cracked. It cost about $5 and three minutes of labor to replace them. I haven't driven the car enough to be confident the code isn't going to come back, but the idle is a lot smoother now without that vacuum leak.
Hey everybody, I'm dealing with recurring P2004 codes after replacing both of the solenoids and clearing codes multiple times. The Mazda workshop manual has a full diagnostic procedure for checking all elements of the system - the solenoid operation, the actuator, the vacuum hoses, electrical connections, voltage levels. You may get lucky to have one of these solenoids fail and have it fixed after replacing that, but it's as likely that it won't be the problem. Do yourself a favor and download the workshop manual for your car and follow the step by step diagnostic procedure. For my situation, I'm now down to troubleshooting the actuator after verifying that the new solenoids are working right and the wiring to them is intact. (The actuator is what moves the butterfly valves in the engine with that vacuum pressure - and it has a switch inside it which tells the computer if the valve is open or closed, and a bad signal from it will trigger this code).
So I replaced both of the intake manifold runner solenoids and I’m still seeing the code even after clearing it, could that point to a faulty part? Or some other issue? Bad vacuum lines?
Vacuum lines would be the next thing to look at..might have a cracked or one not sealing right..those pretty much are the only things that would throw the code..
I ran it and disconnected each Solenoid. just conecting and disconnecting the wire plug over and over The first one was clicking and the second one was not so that tells me the second one is dead. The obd2 is telling me it the first one. not sure why maybe its a fluke. just orderd the replacement Solenoid we will see what happens.
@@RobbersVblog Yup, Im also getting a p0421 code which says "Warm-Up Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)" Im hoping that the Solenoid failure is causing this. If not i will have to replace the Cats o2 sensor to see if that clears it. Having to complete the drive cycle every time i fix something is annoying im wondering if theres a quicker way to see if the error code comes up maybe im missing something here.
Check the vacuum lines. They could be cracked or have a hole or not making a good seal. Also if you have 2 solenoids try swapping them to see if that fixes it.
I believe this is the one I got for this.. www.amazon.com/APDTY-Manifold-1S7G-9J559-BB-L301-18-741-L80118741/dp/B00I2Y4FGQ/ref=psdc_15726041_t3_B09PRKZB9P
I’ve change both sensors, Inspected the vacuum lines and i still have an error code p2004, and I’m not sure what to do next to trouble shoot. Any suggestions?
@@sirachhh7913 If the modules are new and working all i can say is its got to be the vacuum lines..they may look good but can still have a small crack or hole that could cause the code..maybe try replacing the vacuum lines.
@@RobbersVblog That vacuum line that goes to the right, those vacuum line are behind the throttle or underneath behind it. I don’t even know how to get to it
Its an intake manifold runner solenoid as the video says..I show where its located and you can get one online or at any auto parts store just need your cars year, make and model.
@@RobbersVblog This is incorrect. The vacuum hose is connected to an actuator that moves a rod that flips the butterfly valves in the intake manifold. Also, there are other reasons that the solenoid or actuator could fail beyond what was mentioned here (electrical issues, carbon/gunk buildup in the engine freezing it in place).
I'm assuming you cleared the code after you replaced it. If you did and it came back try these 2 things, swap it with the other one, if that dont work need to check the vacuum lines for a leak. Hope this helps!
Check your hoses and wiring harness before buying a replacement solenoid. This video made it easier for me to find the solenoids, but just taking a quick look at the short vacuum lines going from them to the actuators, they were both badly cracked. It cost about $5 and three minutes of labor to replace them. I haven't driven the car enough to be confident the code isn't going to come back, but the idle is a lot smoother now without that vacuum leak.
Yep besides the solenoid the vacuum lines are next to check!
There's only one bank in inline engines. The other solenoid would be bank 1b. Bank 2 is when you have a second manifold like on V engines.
Awesome video, it worked with my 2006 Mazda 3. Saved money, instead of paying the mechanic always charging me for everything.
AWESOME!! Glad it helped!!
REALLY appreciate your video! Helped me to take care of the same problem on my '05 Mazda 3. Thank you!
Your Welcome!! Glad it helped!!!
Hey everybody, I'm dealing with recurring P2004 codes after replacing both of the solenoids and clearing codes multiple times. The Mazda workshop manual has a full diagnostic procedure for checking all elements of the system - the solenoid operation, the actuator, the vacuum hoses, electrical connections, voltage levels. You may get lucky to have one of these solenoids fail and have it fixed after replacing that, but it's as likely that it won't be the problem. Do yourself a favor and download the workshop manual for your car and follow the step by step diagnostic procedure. For my situation, I'm now down to troubleshooting the actuator after verifying that the new solenoids are working right and the wiring to them is intact. (The actuator is what moves the butterfly valves in the engine with that vacuum pressure - and it has a switch inside it which tells the computer if the valve is open or closed, and a bad signal from it will trigger this code).
Thank you for the video!! Made it easy to know exactly what to do and how to fix my son’s car.
You are welcome… Glad it helped!!
Great Video! It explained more about the engine and the section I needed to fix for the code I was getting. Thanks for putting this on TH-cam!
Your welcome!!! glad it helped you!!
Thank you so much easy enough for me to instead of paying a mechanic 200 just to do that
Your welcome!! Glad it helped!!
So I replaced both of the intake manifold runner solenoids and I’m still seeing the code even after clearing it, could that point to a faulty part? Or some other issue? Bad vacuum lines?
Vacuum lines would be the next thing to look at..might have a cracked or one not sealing right..those pretty much are the only things that would throw the code..
Thanks great video, I proved in mi car 👌
Welcome...glad it helped!!
Both of mine are on the right hand side "touring" edition. Which is bank 1
Not sure how yours looks but it is either the one closest to the front of the vehicle or the one furthest towards the passenger side of the car...
thank you!!!! Got my speed 3 one replaced
Your welcome!!
Can this problem cause my turbo to only do 5psi
@@apexproductions7232 It's possible but more testing would need to be done to confirm.
I ran it and disconnected each Solenoid. just conecting and disconnecting the wire plug over and over The first one was clicking and the second one was not so that tells me the second one is dead. The obd2 is telling me it the first one. not sure why maybe its a fluke. just orderd the replacement Solenoid we will see what happens.
Yes replace the one thats not clicking..good luck..pretty easy...
@@RobbersVblog Yup, Im also getting a p0421 code which says "Warm-Up Catalyst System Efficiency Below
Threshold (Bank 1)" Im hoping that the Solenoid failure is causing this. If not i will have to replace the Cats o2 sensor to see if that clears it. Having to complete the drive cycle every time i fix something is annoying im wondering if theres a quicker way to see if the error code comes up maybe im missing something here.
@@jacoblehman8714 You have to let it run the cycle cause the ECM needs to analyze all the readings before it sends a code out..
Hey thanks! And i like the Casio F91-w😂 I'm wearing one as we speak
Thanks for the video! Any idea on if the code comes back? I replaced both solinoids but it comes back
They shouldnt come back..you might have a vacuum leak in the hoses that will also throw the code but not very often.
I changed mine yesterday and yhe p2004 and p2009 is still there. What else could it be?
Check the vacuum lines. They could be cracked or have a hole or not making a good seal. Also if you have 2 solenoids try swapping them to see if that fixes it.
Great video! Can you link where you got that part from?
I believe this is the one I got for this.. www.amazon.com/APDTY-Manifold-1S7G-9J559-BB-L301-18-741-L80118741/dp/B00I2Y4FGQ/ref=psdc_15726041_t3_B09PRKZB9P
What about mazda rx8
Hi! There’s another reason that code can be reflected because I change the same selenoid and the carr still saing the same trouble
There are 2 of them try swapping them, if that dont work you prob have a vacuum leak somewhere.
I’ve change both sensors, Inspected the vacuum lines and i still have an error code p2004, and I’m not sure what to do next to trouble shoot. Any suggestions?
Did you clear the code from the ECM? If you did how long did it take to come back?
@@RobbersVblog Ive cleared the code twice and the engine light would come on maybe 30minutes to an hr later
@@sirachhh7913 If the modules are new and working all i can say is its got to be the vacuum lines..they may look good but can still have a small crack or hole that could cause the code..maybe try replacing the vacuum lines.
@@RobbersVblog I will try that tomorrow
@@RobbersVblog That vacuum line that goes to the right, those vacuum line are behind the throttle or underneath behind it. I don’t even know how to get to it
What part is that and where can I get one for my girlfriends moms Mazda
Its an intake manifold runner solenoid as the video says..I show where its located and you can get one online or at any auto parts store just need your cars year, make and model.
Is the solenoid and actuators the same thing?
The solenoid controls the vacuum that opens and closes the manifold valve which for your question yes its basically the same thing.
@@RobbersVblog This is incorrect. The vacuum hose is connected to an actuator that moves a rod that flips the butterfly valves in the intake manifold. Also, there are other reasons that the solenoid or actuator could fail beyond what was mentioned here (electrical issues, carbon/gunk buildup in the engine freezing it in place).
Are they both the same? Like the left and the right side?
Yes same part just need to know which one is bad..if you dont know replace one if that dont work switch it..
I replaced that with no change in code🤷🏻♂️
I'm assuming you cleared the code after you replaced it. If you did and it came back try these 2 things, swap it with the other one, if that dont work need to check the vacuum lines for a leak. Hope this helps!