I bought this saw a few years ago lowes wanted 499.00 for it but sears had it on sale for less and lowes said they would match that price plus extra % so I got it for 426.00 then I was in line to pay for it and some worker came up to me and said , you know that this saw comes with a free stand , I said it does so I got a free 199.00 stand with for 426.00 but all this time so far I just cut s 2x4 in half with it.
Thank you! Your comments about the inaccuracy of the slide are exactly why I have held off on buying this for so long. Considered a vintage radial arm saw (like I saw in your background) but never wanted to give up the space.
Sean Elku The Metabo 12” Sliding saw is nice too. My brother has the Hitachi version and I had dead accurate cuts to the end of a 10” board. There were 40 to 50 boards we had to cut. The sliding mechanism is stiffer due to the orientation of the rails and the saw sliding on the rails vs the Dewalt design of the rails being connected to the saw.
You just said what some people secretly realize but don't want to think about, for me I know that my saw is taking up too much resources in terms of space and accommodation but after building the station don't want to admit that sometimes its not the best way and should look for better solutions. Well done for taking the plunge and sharing.
I have the DW718 xps. I have had it for 14 years, working professionally full time for 13 of them doing everything from fine furniture, larger Joinery and even some green oak work. Almost every single piece of wood that has entered and existed my workshop has been through it, including chopping up all the offcuts for firewood. I have just changed the brushes on the motor for the 2nd time. The loss of space is my biggest gripe, however on balance - the saw has been far too good to let that be a reason to change it. I have considered a Kapex but I don't think the laser will be as good as the xps light.
I have been watching about a dozen review videos on miter saws. I am going to make a move and money is very tight for me. This saw seems to be the best saw on the market though. There are many things pointed out in this video that really seem could be taken care of with some tweaking. Re-calibrating if need be, better blade, also, your stand looks like there is not a lot of support underneath the saw. I bring this up as less support means potential for some more resonance/vibrations which also will effect a cut. I have a 4x8 table top and have been planning on making it for this saw. It is huge. Almost disappointing at how little space my remain after mounting it with it's respective space. But this saw has so many excellent reviews. So be happy I have been doing research, as I would have got aa Ridgid but now I learned about issues with their motors and learned about how good this dewalt is !!
I run several DeWalt saws at work (4 for aluminum and 1 for wood) and they all do a fantastic job. They are all sliding besides one for thick aluminum. This guys complaint comes from his situation. You said it look at his bench. A “cache all” while he has a cast iron sliding saw in the background. His bench is nil thought of vibration or for being a solid foundation.You won’t go wrong if you buy brand new. These saws run the industry for general contractors for a reason. Make a zero clearance insert and you can make anything from framing to fine trim work with exceptional results. Good luck!
have you looked at the delta cruzer or the bosch glide? Seems like i'm in the same transitional phase you were in when you made this video going from pine 2x4 furniture to more of a fine detail furniture and i'm looking to upgrade/downsize my dewalt 779 to make a miter saw station built into shop cabinets to decrease my shop footprint.
I’ve used the Bosch Glide and it’s worse than the DW. I still have my 12” non sliding DW. When calibrated it’s pretty damn good. I use a track saw for everything else.
Do you know if that Dewalt miter saw is smaller or bigger or the same size as the Ridgid 12 inch miter saw? The reason I’m asking is because I just bought the Ridgid one and it’s frikken huge. It Was difficult to tell how big it was on the display at Home Depot. It was like 330 and I think that Dewalt is about 399. So if the Dewalt Is smaller it would be worth it to me to pay a few extra dollars and get the Dewalt. I was thinking today at work that the ideal setup would be a 10” sliding miter saw and then have a 12” non sliding. I need the large 12” for work because everyone and their brother wants real tall base. I’ve been having to lay it flat and do a compound cut for years and I’m sick of doing it that way. Or when I do fascia I’ll have to flip the damn board. Sick of that too. I’m gonna keep my 10” Dewalt tho. I just wish I had a 10” slider and a 12” regular miter saw. Thanks man, cool vid.
I purchased the formerly known as Hitachi 12" sliding compound miter/bevel saw with the slides on the front. I wanted to love that thing so bad. I returned it the same day I bought it. No matter how I adjusted it, could not get a square cut or a good miter. It had a footprint much much smaller than the 780. The slides on that saw are stationary and the saw slides on it, vs how dewalt and most every other mfg does it. I had also looked into the Bosch with that crazy looking arm assembly. Wasn't for me but the theory was cool.
Dewalt 780 is a beast and looks and feels top end. It's 6kg lighter than the Bosch so easier to cart about from job to job. If in a small workshop Bosch will save heaps of space. To me the DeWalt just looks and feels premium over the German Bosch.
Yes with the portable bench, you’ll likely not accumulate as much stuff stacked on it, and you’ll can slide it back closer to the wall when it’s not being used and pull it out a few inches when you want to use it. This might work better for you. Also if you haven’t yet, look into fine tuning/calibrating the saw to address the accuracy problem you mentioned. It is very big as you mentioned, so if space is an issue, no amount of tweaking will solve that.
Yes I have a non-sliding Makita that is accurate for my task of making picture frames (mitres must be spot-on). But when I bought a sliding Makita saw I was shocked at how inaccurate the cuts were, especially as you move out from the fence to the far end of the cut. Took it back. Will stick to the non-sliding saw, and maybe even move to a table saw with jig for cutting 45° cuts.
I think the intent with the DeWalt 779 and 780 is to lock the slide when doing smaller finish work for accuracy. The slide function should probably only be used for less accurate large cuts (large planks for a patio deck). The great thing about this saw is it can do everything when you need it. A better blade than stock and checking calibration is a must too.
You mentioned the slop in the slider portion of the saw. Can you tell us what the “type” number is under the DWS779 model number (on the sticker on the motor). I ask because I have heard that the type 20 & 21 have an updated slider that is supposed to be smoother and more accurate than the original “type 1”.
Not sure on that. The saw I had was pretty minimally used, compared to construction applications but it was purchased new 8 years ago. I’m assuming it was the older model.
I'm not a carpenter or a professional level wood worker, however, I can say this from my amateur experience you should've probably tried DeWalt stand that's made specifically for these miter saws. Those stands do make a difference. Additionally, I think you should've gotten a better blades and try that route before getting rid of the whole saw. I just recently purchased 779 model for $360 that came with DeWalt miter saw stand as a bonus buy. And I also slapped on 80T blades as soon as I got the saw. From what I can tell, it's quite accurate. I'm quite pleased with its performance. It is noticeably heavy and cumbersome though. But I don't do this for living, thus, those "drawbacks" don't bother me. It may not be a great saw for someone who's mobile carpenter but for stationary use it's a great buy especially if you can find one for under $400. I don't think there's a saw out there that can outperform these saws at that price range.
Hey thanks for your video. I broke a black part which was under the blade as I didnt used anchors on small wooden piece oops 🤷♂️ but I dont know what part was it and is it safe to operate it still. How do I figure out? Can you help?
It's kind of late as a comment, but DeWalt recalled a particular date series because the guard at the back could shatter if hit. Check if your saw is in the recall. They issued the recall in summer 2022 for about 2 years of production. They will send a replacement.
I have that saw. Every check comes up perfect, but blade deflection when fully slid out is a problem. I put a full curf blade on it, which diminishes the deflection a little, but is still there. These type of saws will never be good enough for accuracy. I plan on selling mine and getting a 10 inch slider, no bevel. Also, you cant tune up blade deflection. A 12 inch blade will wobble when fully extended. If anyone thinks otherwise is not someone who is cutting to get a square edge. Its great for rough cuts and miter/bevals, which dont require full blade extensions
10" Non-sliding Dewalt for me for all of the reasons you outlined. Compact and more accurate. Obviously 10" is more limited in cutting capacity but it has the added benefit of less blade deflection.
Your complaints are hilarious! You need to tune the saw to get it accurate. These saws are not designed for permanent installations against a wall, hence the large sliding mechanism behind the saw. The dust collection is terrible on all these saws, including the stupid expensive Festool! Just because you use the saw in a manner that it wasn't intended, doesn't mean it is the saw's fault!
Great video Im planning to make cabinets but was concerned about how deep they would need to be with the slide extension. Problem solved don't want 36" cabinets with the 7" access from fence. Thanks
you prolly dont care but does any of you know of a tool to get back into an Instagram account..? I stupidly lost the account password. I would appreciate any assistance you can give me!
@Myles Silas thanks for your reply. I found the site through google and I'm in the hacking process atm. Seems to take quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
The problem is your blade. I call it the ringing deflection blade.First thing that is done on a Dewalt is to change out the cheap blade. Even rough carpentry work in bulk will benefit in a blade change. For the life of me I can't figure as to the why Dewalt builds such a great saw and then slaps on such a CHEAP lousy blade. Want proof? Cut a piece of wood. Hear that ringing after the cut? That is caused by using inferior metal in the blade construction. That noise is caused by deflection wobble and it resonates. That deflection also appears in your finished cut. So you can both hear and see the result in using a crap/junk pos blade. Have I mentioned the piss poor quality of that blade? Sorry for the rant, but it pisses me off that Dewalt does this to such a great saw.
Mark Jarman would have to disagree with that. My DW717 table is not flat (could slide a credit card under it), lower fence with a .025” bow in the middle, upper fence waaay tilted in, saw fails 2-cut test by .0645” over an 11 inch cut. I wish I had returned it when I had the chance instead of trying to true it up, which cannot be done.
Get bosh axial glide i have 12" it is more precise, but alot heavier if you are transporting saw frequently. The dust collection is also much better. I have both saws. The Dewalt 780 is more presice though than you stated by at least 1/64 of inch deflection.
I got the dws779 recently and returned mine after 3 days because it was just too heavy. Although I’m a portable carpenter, don’t have a shop and not really a finisher. 68 lbs is just too heavy to carry in and out of your vehicle all the time in my honest opinion. Great saw though for a shop, one of the best I think, Once you put a finish blade on it.
I bought one on sale but when I set it up it was huge heavy and it was missing 4 screws that attached the saw to the Glide rails. The saw twisted and cut a 1/4 in to the left of center sending yellow plastic everywhere. Needless to say I took it back. I think I will stick with my non sliding saw.
It's not a kapex doesn't hold water anymore. Mine broke and at $1200 I was pissed. I'm using the Bosch and looking at the dewalt saw. Thanks for the review.
Picked up a used 708 dewalt for the slide feature. Cleaned and adjusted everything you can adjust and can not get a square cut with tje slide. Drove me crazy. Came to TH-cam to see if there is a calibration I'm missing. Nope, just a piece of crap saw. I'm a finish carpenter and never liked Dewalt miter saws. Put a square to the back fence qnd table and they're out of square or put a straight edge across the fence and they're bowed. I've done a lot of high end stuff and use the best and sharpest blades but to get perfect cuts takes a lot of figging.
All you guys saying dws780 is fully adjustable are right except for adjusting the upper part of the back fence. Once you lock the fence,you get what you get. I’ve bought 5 of them and returned them all. I have 5 on different job sites that are perfect. Recent batch of saws are off.
I have both the 708 sliding and 706 fixed and I have to say I really don't like using the 708, theres something about the sliding mechanism that I dont enjoy.
@Second Life Design I'm just wondering if my saw and vacuum will over power the switch. It says it's only designed to handle 15amps. My miter saw alone is 15amp. Then my dewalt 6 gallon/4 HP model # DXV06P on top of that. What do you think?
Try tuning your saw up.There is nothing wrong with It's cut length. because it has the longest cut compared to common manufactures.If you want more accurate cuts buy a higher quality models and pay 4 times more.You should have done your homework
Looking at all the missing teeth on that blade it looked like the original 8 year old blade was still being used. Some blokes just dont see the value in replacing blades or sharpening them when they dull. The bloke i did my apprenticeship with had an original blade on his 254 dewalt saw or 10inch and was kind of proud that he had the original blade even when the cuts would come out black and smoke pouring off the blade while cutting pine 2x4 or 90x45 in my language, it literally took 30 seconds or more to cut through a stud!! I bought my own 10 inch to work with new blade LOL
1/8" difference? You must have got a defective saw. Or you may not be pushing straight. If you intentionally try to push out of alignment maybe you could get 1/8" slop, but I think you would have to push very hard. You probably have bent bars.
I do just “ honey do lists “ for my wife around the house . Such as tiered flower garden beds or for our girls I built hanging loft beds or repairs to the horse barn and such even building swing sets or cutting crown molding or 1/4 round etc. Or just general repairs around the house and property. I DO NOT BUILD CABINETS OR CHAIRS TABLES ETC. I’ve been SERIOUSLY looking at this saw for a couple months now and that’s how I ended up here. Is this a great saw for all that I want to do ? Now I am skilled in pretty much everything but not as for the quality of power tools. But I am in the position now to where I’m building up my shop and have the funds but EVERY power tool I’m buying I want to be near top quality. Yes this saw has a lot of good reviews from a lot of carpenters on TH-cam. Your opinion ?
This is a great, do-it-all kinda saw. My main complaints weren’t the space it needed first and the accuracy second. This saw should serve your needs very well, enjoy!
What is your opinion on that one? I've been trying to find some info on the footprint that takes up. My guess is pretty much the same? I've been looking at purchasing that one soon and I have the same concerns about it being too big.
I heard you say that the Shop-Vac was attached to an ivac switch. I'm not sure that's even how to spell it. Do you have a link to that anywhere could you help a brother out I apologize in advance if it's posted but I didn't find it
The saw is huge when in use, but I use mine mobile. I have it on a Ridgid MSUV stand, which I think is the best on the market because of it's large wheel size (it does stairs easily), and I LOVE it. When stored, swung to one side, and the slide locked forward, it's only marginally bigger than my old single bevel dewalt dw705.
The dewalt is fully adjustable for alignment. Also I've found that the condition of the blade has a lot to do with the cut when it's extended. I've had craftsman, Ridgid, and Makita. Through my experience, they all do a good job if they're adjusted well. And for future videos, write some sort of script to go by. The..Ums,...are killing me! Ha Ha...
I bought this saw a few years ago lowes wanted 499.00 for it but sears had it on sale for less and lowes said they would match that price plus extra % so I got it for 426.00 then I was in line to pay for it and some worker came up to me and said , you know that this saw comes with a free stand , I said it does so I got a free 199.00 stand with for 426.00 but all this time so far I just cut s 2x4 in half with it.
Thank you! Your comments about the inaccuracy of the slide are exactly why I have held off on buying this for so long. Considered a vintage radial arm saw (like I saw in your background) but never wanted to give up the space.
Sean Elku The Metabo 12” Sliding saw is nice too. My brother has the Hitachi version and I had dead accurate cuts to the end of a 10” board. There were 40 to 50 boards we had to cut. The sliding mechanism is stiffer due to the orientation of the rails and the saw sliding on the rails vs the Dewalt design of the rails being connected to the saw.
You just said what some people secretly realize but don't want to think about, for me I know that my saw is taking up too much resources in terms of space and accommodation but after building the station don't want to admit that sometimes its not the best way and should look for better solutions. Well done for taking the plunge and sharing.
I have the DW718 xps. I have had it for 14 years, working professionally full time for 13 of them doing everything from fine furniture, larger Joinery and even some green oak work. Almost every single piece of wood that has entered and existed my workshop has been through it, including chopping up all the offcuts for firewood. I have just changed the brushes on the motor for the 2nd time.
The loss of space is my biggest gripe, however on balance - the saw has been far too good to let that be a reason to change it. I have considered a Kapex but I don't think the laser will be as good as the xps light.
I have been watching about a dozen review videos on miter saws. I am going to make a move and money is very tight for me. This saw seems to be the best saw on the market though. There are many things pointed out in this video that really seem could be taken care of with some tweaking. Re-calibrating if need be, better blade, also, your stand looks like there is not a lot of support underneath the saw. I bring this up as less support means potential for some more resonance/vibrations which also will effect a cut. I have a 4x8 table top and have been planning on making it for this saw. It is huge. Almost disappointing at how little space my remain after mounting it with it's respective space. But this saw has so many excellent reviews. So be happy I have been doing research, as I would have got aa Ridgid but now I learned about issues with their motors and learned about how good this dewalt is !!
I run several DeWalt saws at work (4 for aluminum and 1 for wood) and they all do a fantastic job. They are all sliding besides one for thick aluminum. This guys complaint comes from his situation. You said it look at his bench. A “cache all” while he has a cast iron sliding saw in the background. His bench is nil thought of vibration or for being a solid foundation.You won’t go wrong if you buy brand new. These saws run the industry for general contractors for a reason. Make a zero clearance insert and you can make anything from framing to fine trim work with exceptional results. Good luck!
have you looked at the delta cruzer or the bosch glide? Seems like i'm in the same transitional phase you were in when you made this video going from pine 2x4 furniture to more of a fine detail furniture and i'm looking to upgrade/downsize my dewalt 779 to make a miter saw station built into shop cabinets to decrease my shop footprint.
I’ve used the Bosch Glide and it’s worse than the DW. I still have my 12” non sliding DW. When calibrated it’s pretty damn good. I use a track saw for everything else.
It's undeniably the industry standard saw for production trim guys and carpenters.
Do you know if that Dewalt miter saw is smaller or bigger or the same size as the Ridgid 12 inch miter saw? The reason I’m asking is because I just bought the Ridgid one and it’s frikken huge. It
Was difficult to tell how big it was on the display at Home Depot. It was like 330 and I think that Dewalt is about 399. So if the Dewalt
Is smaller it would be worth it to me to pay a few extra dollars and get the Dewalt. I was thinking today at work that the ideal setup would be a 10” sliding miter saw and then have a 12” non sliding. I need the large 12” for work because everyone and their brother wants real tall base. I’ve been having to lay it flat and do a compound cut for years and I’m sick of doing it that way. Or when I do fascia I’ll have to flip the damn board. Sick of that too. I’m gonna keep my 10” Dewalt tho. I just wish I had a 10” slider and a 12” regular miter saw.
Thanks man, cool vid.
I purchased the formerly known as Hitachi 12" sliding compound miter/bevel saw with the slides on the front. I wanted to love that thing so bad. I returned it the same day I bought it. No matter how I adjusted it, could not get a square cut or a good miter. It had a footprint much much smaller than the 780. The slides on that saw are stationary and the saw slides on it, vs how dewalt and most every other mfg does it. I had also looked into the Bosch with that crazy looking arm assembly. Wasn't for me but the theory was cool.
Hitachi C12RSH2
The bosh is a heap of shit
@@Ga7cun7sSUCK you bought one I guess?
@@scvic2006 yeah i just sold it for $400 and im going to buy the dewalt today.
Dewalt 780 is a beast and looks and feels top end. It's 6kg lighter than the Bosch so easier to cart about from job to job. If in a small workshop Bosch will save heaps of space. To me the DeWalt just looks and feels premium over the German Bosch.
You could buy the stand for it that Dewalt sells for it instead of having it in such a big bench
Yes with the portable bench, you’ll likely not accumulate as much stuff stacked on it, and you’ll can slide it back closer to the wall when it’s not being used and pull it out a few inches when you want to use it. This might work better for you. Also if you haven’t yet, look into fine tuning/calibrating the saw to address the accuracy problem you mentioned. It is very big as you mentioned, so if space is an issue, no amount of tweaking will solve that.
An eighth of an inch or 16" is huge. I have the same saw and it's never that far out. Maybe try a better blade
Yes I have a non-sliding Makita that is accurate for my task of making picture frames (mitres must be spot-on). But when I bought a sliding Makita saw I was shocked at how inaccurate the cuts were, especially as you move out from the fence to the far end of the cut. Took it back. Will stick to the non-sliding saw, and maybe even move to a table saw with jig for cutting 45° cuts.
My sliding makita 36v is super accurate. Best miter saw I have ever owned.
I think the intent with the DeWalt 779 and 780 is to lock the slide when doing smaller finish work for accuracy. The slide function should probably only be used for less accurate large cuts (large planks for a patio deck). The great thing about this saw is it can do everything when you need it. A better blade than stock and checking calibration is a must too.
I have a DeWalt DWS713 10" miter saw. "Love it!"
is this saw better than ryobi 10" mitre saw?
Good job. Good to hear your experience and recommendations.
You mentioned the slop in the slider portion of the saw. Can you tell us what the “type” number is under the DWS779 model number (on the sticker on the motor). I ask because I have heard that the type 20 & 21 have an updated slider that is supposed to be smoother and more accurate than the original “type 1”.
Not sure on that. The saw I had was pretty minimally used, compared to construction applications but it was purchased new 8 years ago. I’m assuming it was the older model.
I'm not a carpenter or a professional level wood worker, however, I can say this from my amateur experience you should've probably tried DeWalt stand that's made specifically for these miter saws. Those stands do make a difference. Additionally, I think you should've gotten a better blades and try that route before getting rid of the whole saw. I just recently purchased 779 model for $360 that came with DeWalt miter saw stand as a bonus buy. And I also slapped on 80T blades as soon as I got the saw. From what I can tell, it's quite accurate. I'm quite pleased with its performance. It is noticeably heavy and cumbersome though. But I don't do this for living, thus, those "drawbacks" don't bother me. It may not be a great saw for someone who's mobile carpenter but for stationary use it's a great buy especially if you can find one for under $400. I don't think there's a saw out there that can outperform these saws at that price range.
Hey thanks for your video. I broke a black part which was under the blade as I didnt used anchors on small wooden piece oops 🤷♂️ but I dont know what part was it and is it safe to operate it still. How do I figure out? Can you help?
It's kind of late as a comment, but DeWalt recalled a particular date series because the guard at the back could shatter if hit. Check if your saw is in the recall. They issued the recall in summer 2022 for about 2 years of production. They will send a replacement.
I have that saw. Every check comes up perfect, but blade deflection when fully slid out is a problem. I put a full curf blade on it, which diminishes the deflection a little, but is still there. These type of saws will never be good enough for accuracy. I plan on selling mine and getting a 10 inch slider, no bevel. Also, you cant tune up blade deflection. A 12 inch blade will wobble when fully extended. If anyone thinks otherwise is not someone who is cutting to get a square edge. Its great for rough cuts and miter/bevals, which dont require full blade extensions
10" Non-sliding Dewalt for me for all of the reasons you outlined. Compact and more accurate. Obviously 10" is more limited in cutting capacity but it has the added benefit of less blade deflection.
The 10” isn’t any more accurate than the 12” you knob, it’s just less powerful😂
@@irishsavage8715 Blade deflection is a real thing. Sober up and get to work you tool box.
Sounds like Gomer and Goober. A couple of putzes.
deflection do not come from the size of the blade...but from the quality of your blade...buy a good blade....that's the idea !!
Im glad to see the replies are wise!
Your complaints are hilarious! You need to tune the saw to get it accurate. These saws are not designed for permanent installations against a wall, hence the large sliding mechanism behind the saw. The dust collection is terrible on all these saws, including the stupid expensive Festool!
Just because you use the saw in a manner that it wasn't intended, doesn't mean it is the saw's fault!
Great video Im planning to make cabinets but was concerned about how deep they would need to be with the slide extension. Problem solved don't want 36" cabinets with the 7" access from fence. Thanks
you prolly dont care but does any of you know of a tool to get back into an Instagram account..?
I stupidly lost the account password. I would appreciate any assistance you can give me!
@Gatlin Prince Instablaster =)
@Myles Silas thanks for your reply. I found the site through google and I'm in the hacking process atm.
Seems to take quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
@Myles Silas it worked and I actually got access to my account again. I am so happy:D
Thanks so much you really help me out :D
@Gatlin Prince Happy to help =)
The problem is your blade. I call it the ringing deflection blade.First thing that is done on a Dewalt is to change out the cheap blade. Even rough carpentry work in bulk will benefit in a blade change. For the life of me I can't figure as to the why Dewalt builds such a great saw and then slaps on such a CHEAP lousy blade.
Want proof? Cut a piece of wood. Hear that ringing after the cut? That is caused by using inferior metal in the blade construction. That noise is caused by deflection wobble and it resonates. That deflection also appears in your finished cut. So you can both hear and see the result in using a crap/junk pos blade. Have I mentioned the piss poor quality of that blade?
Sorry for the rant, but it pisses me off that Dewalt does this to such a great saw.
They built it to a price point. Similar to when you buy a new car and it comes with garbage tires.
What blade did you go with?
@Victor....give us a link the the replacement blade you found/use.
Easy to true up that saw. Dewalt do come pretty good but you can true them up real easy
Mark Jarman would have to disagree with that. My DW717 table is not flat (could slide a credit card under it), lower fence with a .025” bow in the middle, upper fence waaay tilted in, saw fails 2-cut test by .0645” over an 11 inch cut. I wish I had returned it when I had the chance instead of trying to true it up, which cannot be done.
JT Long nothing I have bought from dewalt or anyone I know has had any problems like that. Yes I think I would have sent that back 100%
My problem with my dws780 is that the saw and the blade twist as it's pulled forward
Get bosh axial glide i have 12" it is more precise, but alot heavier if you are transporting saw frequently. The dust collection is also much better. I have both saws. The Dewalt 780 is more presice though than you stated by at least 1/64 of inch deflection.
Yeah, I agree, too much flex in the body. Difficult for accurate 45 deg framing cuts. I am frustrated with mine.
Nice video 36” is a lot of space in the average guys work space
What are you replacing it with
I got the dws779 recently and returned mine after 3 days because it was just too heavy. Although I’m a portable carpenter, don’t have a shop and not really a finisher. 68 lbs is just too heavy to carry in and out of your vehicle all the time in my honest opinion. Great saw though for a shop, one of the best I think, Once you put a finish blade on it.
What did you end up buying?
I bought one on sale but when I set it up it was huge heavy and it was missing 4 screws that attached the saw to the Glide rails. The saw twisted and cut a 1/4 in to the left of center sending yellow plastic everywhere. Needless to say I took it back. I think I will stick with my non sliding saw.
It's not a kapex doesn't hold water anymore. Mine broke and at $1200 I was pissed. I'm using the Bosch and looking at the dewalt saw. Thanks for the review.
I had the bosh and its just too heavy and in accurate because of the wiggle in the arms, i sold it recently to buy the 780
Picked up a used 708 dewalt for the slide feature. Cleaned and adjusted everything you can adjust and can not get a square cut with tje slide. Drove me crazy. Came to TH-cam to see if there is a calibration I'm missing. Nope, just a piece of crap saw. I'm a finish carpenter and never liked Dewalt miter saws. Put a square to the back fence qnd table and they're out of square or put a straight edge across the fence and they're bowed. I've done a lot of high end stuff and use the best and sharpest blades but to get perfect cuts takes a lot of figging.
All you guys saying dws780 is fully adjustable are right except for adjusting the upper part of the back fence. Once you lock the fence,you get what you get. I’ve bought 5 of them and returned them all. I have 5 on different job sites that are perfect. Recent batch of saws are off.
I have both the 708 sliding and 706 fixed and I have to say I really don't like using the 708, theres something about the sliding mechanism that I dont enjoy.
Have a link to the "I vac switch"?
www.amazon.com/shop/secondlifedesign/list/3TZQWTB08O2F5?ref_=aipsflist_aipsfsecondlifedesign
@Second Life Design I'm just wondering if my saw and vacuum will over power the switch. It says it's only designed to handle 15amps. My miter saw alone is 15amp. Then my dewalt 6 gallon/4 HP model # DXV06P on top of that. What do you think?
Try tuning your saw up.There is nothing wrong with It's cut length. because it has the longest cut compared to common manufactures.If you want more accurate cuts buy a higher quality models and pay 4 times more.You should have done your homework
You need to use the best tool I saw in your shop the big green one on the left side of bench, they can do more than any miter saw tried to do
A good sharp blade and slow(ish) steady cuts make a difference to your accuracy. A shit blade and cutting like usain bolt will just F it all up.
Looking at all the missing teeth on that blade it looked like the original 8 year old blade was still being used.
Some blokes just dont see the value in replacing blades or sharpening them when they dull. The bloke i did my apprenticeship with had an original blade on his 254 dewalt saw or 10inch and was kind of proud that he had the original blade even when the cuts would come out black and smoke pouring off the blade while cutting pine 2x4 or 90x45 in my language, it literally took 30 seconds or more to cut through a stud!! I bought my own 10 inch to work with new blade LOL
@@Ga7cun7sSUCK Exactly why some guys have bent fences too. Gorilla their way thru the cut.
Starts at 5:20
MVP
1/8" difference? You must have got a defective saw. Or you may not be pushing straight. If you intentionally try to push out of alignment maybe you could get 1/8" slop, but I think you would have to push very hard. You probably have bent bars.
Six years and you still have the shitty blade that came with it?
Change the blade, put bias ply tires on a vette and you’ll say handling is horrible.
Did you regulate it?
I do just “ honey do lists “ for my wife around the house . Such as tiered flower garden beds or for our girls I built hanging loft beds or repairs to the horse barn and such even building swing sets or cutting crown molding or 1/4 round etc. Or just general repairs around the house and property. I DO NOT BUILD CABINETS OR CHAIRS TABLES ETC. I’ve been SERIOUSLY looking at this saw for a couple months now and that’s how I ended up here. Is this a great saw for all that I want to do ? Now I am skilled in pretty much everything but not as for the quality of power tools. But I am in the position now to where I’m building up my shop and have the funds but EVERY power tool I’m buying I want to be near top quality. Yes this saw has a lot of good reviews from a lot of carpenters on TH-cam. Your opinion ?
This is a great, do-it-all kinda saw. My main complaints weren’t the space it needed first and the accuracy second. This saw should serve your needs very well, enjoy!
Don't forget about the Hercules double compound miter saw
What is your opinion on that one? I've been trying to find some info on the footprint that takes up. My guess is pretty much the same? I've been looking at purchasing that one soon and I have the same concerns about it being too big.
I heard you say that the Shop-Vac was attached to an ivac switch. I'm not sure that's even how to spell it. Do you have a link to that anywhere could you help a brother out I apologize in advance if it's posted but I didn't find it
Check out this page from Second Life Design www.amazon.com/shop/secondlifedesign?ref=inf_own_secondlifedesign
Picked up the 779 for $350.
Should’ve just spent the extra 230 and got the rolling stand problem solved
The saw is huge when in use, but I use mine mobile. I have it on a Ridgid MSUV stand, which I think is the best on the market because of it's large wheel size (it does stairs easily), and I LOVE it. When stored, swung to one side, and the slide locked forward, it's only marginally bigger than my old single bevel dewalt dw705.
Why are you getting rid of it?
From what I can tell, because it's too big? Video seemed kinda long for the content.
No miter is a replacement for table saw. The XPS system is the best I have used tho.
David Davis Well for many cuts it’s preferable. If your table saw fence sucks it makes the saw useless and more importantly DANGEROUS.
I just got a 780 for $479. Cant wait to get it.
This guy is the human version of Eeyore...Slow down turbo, you might accidentally show some enthusiasm😂
your benches are too big to work on? hmm
Unfortunately not everyone can afford Festool
I put mine in a corner
“75% better than nothing” 🤪
The 708 is dewalts real big saw
down fall for me it says dewalt
Cause your switching to Makita? Obviously everyone knows Makita is the Toyota of power tools.
just get the DWS716XPS lol
Another great video! Thanks
Great saw i like dewalt faithful
The dewalt is fully adjustable for alignment. Also I've found that the condition of the blade has a lot to do with the cut when it's extended. I've had craftsman, Ridgid, and Makita. Through my experience, they all do a good job if they're adjusted well. And for future videos, write some sort of script to go by. The..Ums,...are killing me! Ha Ha...
Good to know. Thanks!
It costs 900 eur in europe... Just saying..
1300 with a stand.... we are getting robbed here man!!!
say big one more time sir
Gather your thoughts before posting, nothing but repetition.
Thanks for watching!
Dewalt dont make a good saw
Another point of view. Watch this guys other videos too, he's amazing:
th-cam.com/video/pW88iTlA_VU/w-d-xo.html