Click "Read more" to see all of the tool links. Watch 99% of Beginners Don't Know These Table Saw Mistakes - th-cam.com/video/LLvXrmLLvKs/w-d-xo.htmlsi=ZfNKRgOobApoWYk- Tools in this Video: DeWALT DWS779 Miter Saw - amzn.to/3ypq7KQ Festool Kapex Miter Saw - amzn.to/3V2Tomf Makita Miter Saw - amzn.to/3UFRbgd Bosch Miter Saw - amzn.to/3wMfilj Delta Cruiser - go.magik.ly/ml/22fe3/ WEN Miter Saw - amzn.to/3KnC7PL CMT Chrome 80 Tooth Blade - amzn.to/3UItu6T Diablo 80 Tooth Blade - amzn.to/3UCDr5Q Woodworking Square - lddy.no/1js9c Double Stick Tape - amzn.to/3yhPz4J Zero Clearance Tape - amzn.to/4aoTLNx 10 Million Dollar Stick - amzn.to/4ahwuwZ Dust Mask - RZ Mask - amzn.to/4blbzKy DeWALT Dust Extractor - amzn.to/3UXiEv7 Festool Dust Extractor - amzn.to/3UZyLbD RIDGID 6HP Shop Vac - homedepot.sjv.io/DKvyry Stealth Stop Stop Blocks - amzn.to/4bDNkqH Portable Miter Station - amzn.to/3WM1aTN Worx Portable Workbench - amzn.to/3V04GbP Rolling Stands - amzn.to/4bHdQjd Miter Station Build Plans - www.731woodworks.com/store/miter-station-build-plans Shop Project Plan Bundle (includes miter station and more) - www.731woodworks.com/store/shopplanbundle How to Apply a Tourniquet - th-cam.com/video/wWVne7cUrm8/w-d-xo.html Stop the Bleed FREE Online Course - www.stopthebleed.org/training/online-course/ Free Masterclass on how I started and grew my woodworking business from scratch - site.731woodworks.com/masterclass The full list of tools and supplies I recommend can be found on my website: www.731woodworks.com/recommended-tools Greatest Free Gift I've Ever Received: story4.us/731Woodworks Join the TUBAFOUR NATION through Patreon to get access to exclusive member only behind the scenes videos, member only livestreams, exclusive discounts, and other cool member only perks! www.patreon.com/731woodworks If you use one of these Amazon and other affiliate links, I will receive a commission on qualifying purchases. Greatest Free Gift I've Ever Received: story4.us/731Woodworks Some other useful links: Daily Tool Deals on my website: www.731woodworks.com/tool-deals Subscribe to our email Newsletter to get new content alerts, sales, and more! mailchi.mp/7e44c16eefdc/731-woodworks-email-newsletter Easy to Follow Build Plans - www.731woodworks.com/store Outlaw's Board Butter - So Good it Should be Outlawed: www.731woodworks.com/store/boardbutter
I've been woodworking for almost 50 years and this was a great selection of tips. Watch it, listen to him and do what he does or doesn't. Slow down, take your time and after 50 years you will still be able to count to 10 on your fingers. Thanks Matt!
I run a fabrication shop for a large commercial furniture installation company. Out miter saw station has had a DeWalt DWS780 in it since they were introduced in 2011. Truly a workhorse saw. But for my own tools I wanted to get past that issue of having to stand off the wall to allow the slide tubes clearance. While I have lots of Festool equipment I just couldn't justify the Kapex cost; so enter the Bosch Glide. It is an absolute beast of a saw (in many ways. Big, heavy, and for some reason a grip handle sized for pro football players) and after 1 year of use on everything from making jewelry boxes to framing out a large storage shed, I feel you cannot go wrong with that saw. A few hundred dollars more than the DeWalt, but once you adjust the glide drag to your preference and get it squared, it is an absolute pleasure to run. Very informative video for beginners and intermediate users. And of all the things covered, I'd have to say what I correct in the field more than any other poor practice is slamming into the cut before the saw spins up to speed and lifting out of the cut with the blade still turning. Our installers cut a lot of large aluminum extrusion and not letting the blade stop has probably damaged more trim than all other causes combined. Solid content 👍
I wish I would’ve seen this video earlier recently. I tried to cut a 45° angle on a very short piece of 2 x 4 end and it grabbed it kicked back, throwing my hand into the frame of the miter, saw cutting and pinning my finger there even with gloves on. I was in a remote part of Wisconsin just wanted to get to urgent care to have them look at it, but they wanted to send out paramedics and when they looked at my finger thought that I might lose it and called for a helicopter to meet us at the nearest airport. By the time we got to the airport, the blood flow had improved and decided to have my wife drive the two hours to a trauma one hospital instead of the $40,000 helicopter ride. turns out the tendons and blood flow is good now, but I damaged my nerve and the surgeon said I should regain feeling within the next eight weeks. I really appreciate you doing this video
Wow. I hope your hand recovers. In case anyone is reading your comment and sees the use of gloves. Never use gloves with anything spinning. Never. If the glove catches, it will pull and wrap and you're in deep trouble very quickly.
That's rough man. Even the most experienced among us are still capable of making mistakes. We're only human after All. Glad you didn't have to pay $40,000 for a helicopter ride. Hope you heal up okay. Also I do know what you're going through a car accident in my early twenties really messed up my left hand and I ended up losing my whole thumb and my pointer and middle finger at the first knuckle. I have no feeling and have my hand and it's very uncomfortable a lot of the time. But I was able to get back into the industry after a lot of hard work and physical therapy. You'll be just fine
3:09 One thing I found out the hard way - not only does your fence need to be square to the blade but each side needs to be lined up with the other. Both sides of my fence were square to the blade but one side was slightly forward and as result....bad cuts 😕 Just put a straight edge to your fence to make sure.
Great tips. A DeWalt miter saw (not a slider) is one of the most used tools in our shop where I'm teaching inner city kids about carpentry and woodworking. Besides the warning about baggy sleeves, I'm constantly reminding the students to tuck in their hoodie strings, or take them off. Some of the students are wearing hoodies 12 months out of the year, the risk is significant.
Matt. This is exactly what I was waiting for. Show more of these. Does and don't. Safety is the key in woodworking. Simple mistakes and safety on all the machines. Thank you so much for these videos to teach and learn us❤
I made the miter station from your plans and added a hood to mine with a dust collector 3 inch port . Takes care of most of my dust then I vacuum out what doesn't get thrown into the collection hole. Great video as always Matt.
Great information. I like your style. I was always told to push as you cut, as opposed to pulling. Just in case the saw leaps forward as it cuts in to the wood.
Thanks man. I watched this all the way through because once in a while I like to be reminded about what I'm doing. I'm a long time high school woodshop teacher and ALL the safety tips you mention are what I teach my students. The only thing slightly different is that I tell my students to always roll up their sleeves, (if wearing long sleeves), when working on any power tool. Two other things that I'm adamant about is always using eye protection and those with hair length below their shoulders to always have it tied back. I have shop coats, aprons and hearing protection for students to use but I don't enforce them. They are available though. Thanks for posting.
I bought a Bosch miter saw and it came with a 60 tooth blade which has been pretty great for woodworking honestly, but I also bought an 80 tooth blade and will keep the CMT recommendation in mind when I need to replace the blades eventually.
i’m a fair weather hobbyist. i only use my saws outside but still wear a mask . no saw dust inside my garage. after finishing i use my leaf blower to thoroughly blow all the saw dust off my miter saw or table saw . both saws are on job site rolling stands. powertec for the table saw and ridged for my miter saw. both store vertically.
I recommend making it able to attach to the fence. This way you can screw it in place whenever you need it rather than wasting a 2x6 every time you need to do it.
some great tips here ( who hasn't been tempted to to do something that didn't feel right? ) Love The first one about the jig for large angles. 6:40 the zero clearance jig to cut small pieces - I had one shatter and turn into projectiles)
Im so glad you mentioned the not crossing your arms thing, ive been utilizing this method for years, and again do you leave the saw plugged in when leveling the blade or not? And when i change my blades, i put a wrench on the nut and turn on the saw, that blade comes flying off, just make sure you stand off to the side, cause that blade will mutilate whatever it hits, and always take the saw guard off too,
I have the DW779 that you said you really like, but added the shadow light from a DW780. There’s a TH-cam video about adding the light, including part numbers. The more recent DW779s appear to be made a bit cheaper than mine with more plastic parts.
A spectacular collection of tips, Matt. Some are common sense, while others I've never thought of. A thousand thank you's for this video, Matt!!!!! 😊😊😊😊😊❤❤❤❤❤
Many handy tips. 👍 Instead of using double-sided tape, there are holes in the back fence. They are there so you can use screws to add blocks of wood to reduce tear-out or do excessive angles. The screws are re-usable and don't gum up the saw bed. Just make sure they're the right length so the blade won't hit them. 😁 And checking for square, rather than check the saw itself, I cut a piece of scrap wood and check that. Best wishes.
After 10 years without a miter saw, I purchase the Ridgid 10" Cruiser and put a Frued Ultra Finish blade on it. . Added a back zero clearance fence, and Fast Cap's zero cleanse tap . A little black hobby foam to enlarge the dust collection scoop, and a dedicated Small shop vac with an auto start switch and a cardboard box helps contain most of the dust. Even bought the DeWalt Crown stops so I can do crown molding Cruiser as the same 8mm hole on the side. It sits at the end of my M1000 extension to my MFT/3 table. Give me 12' to the left in my shop. I made custom temporary supports for supporting material on both side when needed. BTW, you can easily make one of those million dollar hold downs with some scraps and rubber door bumpers.
This is a great video. I'm a guitar builder and a new Miter saw owner (Dewalt). I was wondering how to safely cut a 15 degree scarf cut on guitar necks (20mm thick long boards). The only way I can think is to set the angle and clamp the material to a block, which is in turn clamped to the fence. This basically leaves the neck material sticking out towards me as the cut is made (I would stand to the side).
Thank you for solving a problem before I got a chance to get into it! I live in a mobile home with those dopey "open floorplan" designs, with 14 ft ceilings at the peak. Sound booms so anything above a soft tone of speech carries like everyone was mic'd. I will not express how much is costs to heat the ceiling of our house. Then I saw your trick for making a jig for crazy shape angles! Hot Damn!! Now I can get into the corners and get a support beam to mate up with the original for a good, tight fit! I'd been dragging my feet getting started on anything, even the guest bathroom, which would be going through the same motions I would use for the living room/kitchen/dinette conversion. If it doesn't kill me. All of my DIY projects end up having a strong I Love Lucy quality about them. Thanks again, mate! Good stuff! You are consistent, you sweat details and you make the process of looking at a video so transparent that it gets lost in my mind sometimes that I am watching a TV rather than just hanging out. I bet your garage is popular with folks coming over picking your brain, like they were out for a walk and the idea just pops into their heads to stop and ask.😆🙄🥳🚀
@@lisa4357 How I wish I could set up my camera to record and follow me around. I'd be editing out tons, but I can and do wail like Lucy. The crew here knows it and can tell then if a standard fire extinguisher of the one designed to put out the occasional electrical fire in my office. As I like to proudly say, "I have never burnt a stick of furniture!" You're right. It has nothing to do with the problem. Boasting of a failure just throws people off. Thank you Lisa, for your thoughtful compliment!🌺
Great advices. Cant stress enough of letting the blade stop before lifting it. Ran into couple of times cutting pvc pipes and the kickback was scary as materials were flying everywhere
Guilty of trying to cut too small a piece. I set it there and hoped for the best, which it wasn't. The piece went flying back and broke a piece of my brand new miter saw, nothing that affects function or safety. Thankfully, I was smart enough not to have my hand on it. Oh, and I'm still running the factory blade. I had no idea tbh. Thanks for the video. It was definitely a worthwhile watch for me.
I needed to watch this to learn. thank you! Improve dust collection cost and get better results: Ridgid Shop Vac + Hepa Filter w/bag + Cone type cyclone. The $20 ones from Amazon are good. Result: greater suction from vac + filters and bag will not fill up as quick + cleaner air if not fully venting outside. Far cheaper and will operate better than the Festool (bold words)
I'm glad you mentioned the crossing your arms thing. I tend to see this more with right handed people. Us left handers have learned to roll with the punches since it's mostly a right handed world so we can operate the saw with both hands.
This is a funny concept to me because as a a Right handed person. I've been into woodworking as a hobby since I was 5. I probably bought my first miter saw in my early 20s. I am now 38. Perhaps I never learned the bad habit because. I learned from a handful of trades people, including my uncles. And an assortment of HGTV personalities back in the early 90 when I was in middle school and highschool. Im not saying I never make mistakes because I have. But to cross my arms to operate a miter saw never crossed my mind. I think that's a commen since thing. And has nothing to do with being right handed or left handed. But Right minded in the task at hand.
@@JeffreyFeyh-rb4xk I didn't start out as early as you, I was 10, but now I'm 56 and in all that time I've never seen a left handed person cross their arms using a miter saw, only right handed. I believe the reason is, a lot of things in the world are built for righties so left handed people just shrug their shoulders and adapt to the situation. As a right hand person you wouldn't understand.
Great video Matt! I do feel somewhat personally attacked by #3 because I do it constantly, but you are 100% right. Also Shop Nation makes a bunch of dust collection upgrade brackets for most of the saws you've mentioned, including the older DeWalt saws. I haven't put it on my DW716 yet but I will be doing that soon.
If you’d like to add a shadow light to your 779, there’s a great video by Fisher’s Shop to do that. He has a link for the led light that fits the saw perfectly. The 45* angle was great! I’ll definitely be using that one. Thanks for the great videos!
Great tips. Didn't know that the piece must touch both sides of the thing. One tip I can give you, is you want to grab both the work piece AND the machine together. That is direct from the Manufactures video.
I finally upgraded my crappy hetabo miter saw to the 780 last fall. It doesn't seem like much but that shadow line is such a time saver. lining up cuts is super easy and accurate without even having to put any thought into it.
Great video, Matt. Safety should never be taken for granted since most of the time you only get one chance to be safe! It too late for the coulda', woulda', shoulda' after you cut something precious off - be that some of the wood or a body part. I bought the 12" non-sliding DeWalt Miter saw and added the shadow line. I already have one of those controversial radial arm saws so don't need the added cutting capacity the slide offers. More of these Do's & Don'ts videos would be nice, especially if you make sure to explain the why's behind the no-no's.
The first trick put the double-sided tape in the 2 by 6 was actually pretty dope. Now you can actually get a saw that goes all the way up to 70°. I almost bought the rigid 12 inch compound miter for this one fact alone but opted for a different one instead. It goes up to 60° and you usually don't have to go past that too much
The dust collection on your saw looks really good Matt, was that little grey shroud at the back of the saw standard with the Festool, or was it a custom piece? God bless you and Amy 😊
I’ve got a good tip to add for newbie’s. Don’t cut a bowed board with the hump up leaving a gap between the board and saw base. When the cut nears the bottom the board pinches the blade and can want to pull the board towards you and up to the saw. Especially when cutting hard woods. Some great tips in this video. I’ve tried to never become over confident when using all power tools. I love that T shirt, it’s so true. Always listen to your gut it’s truly one of your best safety features. One last tip if something goes wrong release the trigger.
I bought a kit I believe it was off a parts sight, it was possibly EBay, but I think it was some parts site I found on a YT video, but dirt cheap I ordered a shadow line kit for my 79, it’s basically the same as the 80 now, they give you the wire & switch kit & handle parts & light & it takes like 10 minutes to install, works great, been like 4-5 years now, I think I only paid $30 ish
I make a shallow top cut pulling the saw towards me, then a full depth cut, with the bade fully down. This greatly reduces tearout, because the actual cut is into the surface, not coming out of the surface.
I have a rigid radial arm mitre that goes to 70 degrees, the only thing I had to do was made a insert for blade, the original was almost a half inch wide gap that kept collecting drops. I have the luxury of a rather large man cave under my garage so it's on its own home made station and love this saw.
I bought the 780 a couple of months back, It came with a 60T fine finish blade, not a 32 Tooth as you claim. I find it so far to be pretty good. I did pick up a 100 tooth Diablo that will go on when I'm finding the 60T is not "Cutting It" Lol.
Common sense would be that a miter saw is going to be used for cross cuts. Why would a manufacture ship a 40 tooth? Old 12" Ridgid came with a 80 tooth. New 12" came with a 60 tooth.
Good video 👍 I would add a couple important things here.. One is that the miter saws have mounting holes in the feet ..and when on a miter station should be bolted or screwed down So it can't move or slide at all. The same for a field set up .. the saw needs to be very secure, however you set it up, to not move or shift. Second with your sawdust collection you should always use a vortex or cyclone type intermediate collector it will collect most all the large and medium to small parts settling into that bucket and the shop vac won't get clogged or need to be cleaned nearly as fast, and will keep it's peek suction much longer . They are not very expensive and you could also diy one pretty easily. 😊
I use my DeWalt like your saw, I think, to cut aluminum......100% of the time..... it is a fantastic tool for that, the only thing I do is use a cutting wax by Tapmatic, Edgelube, and a TCP profile 80 tooth blade......the surface I get will blow you away how smooth.... and yes, it is important to wait for the blade to stop before racing the saw....the dust is no issue, but the chips coming off can be hot, so ear and eye protection is important.... wearing a ball cap with the brim in the proper direction is also very helpful..... all your tips in this video are spot on.....thank you so much....Paul
I was hoping you would describe the work hold down that I seen on one of the Dewalt, look like it was fasten to the saw table behind the fence. Some projects it would be nice to secure the work piece to the saw table that is awkward to hold with your hand ? Thank you for the video. Picked up some great advice.
Already cut my fence on a compound cut….should have watched your video sooner 😆😆…I am now subscribed to your videos. Yes I know read the directions… but I am a man what can I say.
I have the same saw you have here. I made my dedicated table to the saw. It is 12 feet to the left and 6 feet to the right. I have an adjustable stop block on either side but the fence I made 1/8 inch back of the saw fence. Wood does expand and contract and that will cause you to get out of square to the blade. When I make any cross cut with the saw, I will put my lumber against the saw fence and not the table fence guaranteeing me a square cut every time.
Good tip to let the saw blade get to full speed and let the blade cut it way through the wood while you gradually guide the saw into the cut and always let the blade come to a complete stop before raising the blade out of the cut. I learned those tips from you thanks
Great vid! For a great saw that has the rails forward so you can put it against the wall, everyone should take a look at the Hitachi. I bought mine on sale for like less than 300 and it is fantastic!
Looking at #1, cutting unsafe angles. And lots of people questioned back in high school why they had to know geometry because they would never need it...
Love these videos. QQ, any tips when you only have the miter saw and you are cutting longer pieces of wood like fence pickets? So basically, a lot of the picket is just floating off any surface. I hope this makes sense.
@@731Woodworks Thanks for your response. I think I’ll give your miter station build a try once I reorganize my garage. Wish me luck bc I’m a rookie to wood working.(I will be buying your 6 plan bundle)
I have been guilty of trying to cut small pieces. I have experienced a shocking kickback and am lucky it didn't hit me and I didn'tcut my fingers. I have recently bought a Rockwell Bladerunner X2 (really a scroll saw mounted upside down on a table) and a mini 4" blade saw to deal with small pieces. I have also held small angle cuts. I've been lucky there as well. I will use your technique henceforth. Thanks so much. When it comes to dangerous tools like saws and grinders, you should not count on your luck. It will run out one day, and you'll be in a world of hurt.Thanks so much for your safety videos.
One more tip for some saws with larger blades and electric brakes. When you release the trigger, the saw can lurch downward slightly (conservation of angular momentum). My 14" milwaukee SCMS will lunge about 2" if you're not expecting it. It's not an issue for normal cuts where you let the blade stop in the fully down and forward position, but if you spin it up and then realize you need to make an adjustment, raise the blade fully and let it stop before doing anything else.
My dad did that "forget to adjust the fence" whoopsie on his DW. Turned into a great excuse to finally replace the blade in it, at least. I'll note that the shadowline for the cut is the best way I've seen for easy reference, since it perfectly shows the kerf thickness, even out in the sun.
Matt, Awesome video! Great safety tips!! BTW I just got the Metabo HPT 12” sliding miter saw. It’s a newer model. I could not find any reviews on this saw. I did a lot of research and this saw is very comparable to dewalts. Handle is like your Festtool. If you think you could do a review on this saw it would add to the competition. Straight out the box was true to blade and fence. I highly recommend this review as there are older reviews but the saw is newer model now.
I never thought about using it like that with a stop block I built your miter saw station and never had a stop block before. But even with a stop block I still clamp the piece down by the blade that’s the only reason I haven’t had kick back . Thank you for this . Could have saved anything bad from happening to me .
At least on the DeWalt, the instructions say to let the blade stop before lifting it after a cut. I thought it was because the blade guard might not retract fast enough, but kickback makes more sense. It doesn't hurt to reread instructions every year or two, after using the saw for a while, the reasons start to make more sense, but we can also get a sense of security with a dangerous, but useful tool.
For #1, I highly recommend this versus just holding a board up on the saw. One thing I will suggest is that rather than double stick tape, you use the clamp that comes with every miter saw that is totally worthless for any other application; now, not only are you using a piece most people just consider at throw away, you can make one jig and use it over and over. Or, just buy the Rigid R4222, which cuts angles up to 70 degrees; that's what I did and I've been happy with it so far.
Loved the idea of the "angle board!" The website is great! Sorry it was raining the day you made video... My day today, was going to Minneapolis, and watching the Yankees win!
Excellent advice for beginners (and experienced). My only comment is that you mentioned to look for the most horsepower for dust collection. HP is not a rating to be trusted. Even manufacturers disclaimer that HP ratio my is not a true representation. In order to find the best “shop vac” or dust collection the other factors such as static pressure, water column test SQFM (cubic feet/minute) are the factors to compare between vacuums. Not a knock against you, only providing extra info for new woodworkers that want to enjoy the same passion we do.
Just a quick FYI, you mentioned the Delta Cruzer miter saw, that saw is no longer being manufactured. This is not because any design flaws or mechanical issues, it's because their parent company decided to rebrand it under the RIDGID (Home Depot) name, my guess is that they wanted to take the saw out of their competitor's stores (Lowe's) . The Delta Cruzer can still be bought on Amazon, and other sites as well, and I believe (please correct me if I'm wrong) the warranty for the Delta saw is being honored by Ridgid, and/or the store or website you bought your saw from. I bought mine on Amazon, along with an extended warranty, and Amazon will cover any issues via that warranty.
@731Woodworks A Company called CFS or Custom Fabricating Solutions actually makes Zero Clearance Plates for Dewalt Miter Saws, even Sliding models. For the longest time no one was making the Plates for the DW717 10" Slider model, but they do. Quick Shipping also. No issues with any level issues as it sits flush or about a 32nd under the miter plate. No issues cutting the line either as it does come blank to perfectly match your blade. Thin Kerfs as well. I would advise using a higher teeth blade that matches the blade you want to use first so that the initial cut goes smoothly. Just take your time.
Did you swap out the blade that came with your Kapex? I've found that Festool is probably the exception to that rule, since the blades they include with their tools are decent.
14:17 20% off because because it is raining where you are. I'm in Maryland, it's June and we are having 93 degrees and a snow storm is rolling in. Will the discount double?
I had the Hercules saw and it was a beast. I have the 780 now and in my opinion it's much better than the Hercules. With that said, I'd still recommend that Hercules for anyone needing a miter saw.
I nicked my fence last week doing a 45° ... 😔... I was gutted, I'm soo careful with my tools and just forgot... lesson learned... its a 2 year old double bevel / double mitre Evolution saw which I have been super happy with since I bought it...extremely accurate right out of the box.. Regarding checking the squareness of the blade, I prefer to take a trial-cut and check the workpiece itself, after all, thats where we want to see the results... of course if its off, you'll be checking the blade itself, I have a 4'' machinist-grade solid steel square which I use for this (I'm a machinist by trade so small errors seem big to me anyways !🙄) Regarding the zero-clearance insert, I also made 2 sacrificial rear fence pieces, slightly taller than the standard fence and slotted them so I can close up the gap between them and re-cut to compensate for wear... Great vid and all very relevant tips... we're never to old to stop learning... and I wouldnt have it any other way... Thanks !! 😎👍☘🍻
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Stealth Stop Stop Blocks - amzn.to/4bDNkqH
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I've been woodworking for almost 50 years and this was a great selection of tips. Watch it, listen to him and do what he does or doesn't. Slow down, take your time and after 50 years you will still be able to count to 10 on your fingers.
Thanks Matt!
using hands only)))
😸👍
I run a fabrication shop for a large commercial furniture installation company. Out miter saw station has had a DeWalt DWS780 in it since they were introduced in 2011. Truly a workhorse saw. But for my own tools I wanted to get past that issue of having to stand off the wall to allow the slide tubes clearance. While I have lots of Festool equipment I just couldn't justify the Kapex cost; so enter the Bosch Glide. It is an absolute beast of a saw (in many ways. Big, heavy, and for some reason a grip handle sized for pro football players) and after 1 year of use on everything from making jewelry boxes to framing out a large storage shed, I feel you cannot go wrong with that saw. A few hundred dollars more than the DeWalt, but once you adjust the glide drag to your preference and get it squared, it is an absolute pleasure to run. Very informative video for beginners and intermediate users. And of all the things covered, I'd have to say what I correct in the field more than any other poor practice is slamming into the cut before the saw spins up to speed and lifting out of the cut with the blade still turning. Our installers cut a lot of large aluminum extrusion and not letting the blade stop has probably damaged more trim than all other causes combined. Solid content 👍
Best advice EVER, from any channel and any topic: If it don't feel right in the gut, don't make the cut. Brilliant!
I wish I would’ve seen this video earlier recently. I tried to cut a 45° angle on a very short piece of 2 x 4 end and it grabbed it kicked back, throwing my hand into the frame of the miter, saw cutting and pinning my finger there even with gloves on. I was in a remote part of Wisconsin just wanted to get to urgent care to have them look at it, but they wanted to send out paramedics and when they looked at my finger thought that I might lose it and called for a helicopter to meet us at the nearest airport. By the time we got to the airport, the blood flow had improved and decided to have my wife drive the two hours to a trauma one hospital instead of the $40,000 helicopter ride. turns out the tendons and blood flow is good now, but I damaged my nerve and the surgeon said I should regain feeling within the next eight weeks.
I really appreciate you doing this video
Wow. I hope your hand recovers. In case anyone is reading your comment and sees the use of gloves. Never use gloves with anything spinning. Never. If the glove catches, it will pull and wrap and you're in deep trouble very quickly.
That's rough man. Even the most experienced among us are still capable of making mistakes. We're only human after All. Glad you didn't have to pay $40,000 for a helicopter ride. Hope you heal up okay. Also I do know what you're going through a car accident in my early twenties really messed up my left hand and I ended up losing my whole thumb and my pointer and middle finger at the first knuckle. I have no feeling and have my hand and it's very uncomfortable a lot of the time. But I was able to get back into the industry after a lot of hard work and physical therapy. You'll be just fine
3:09 One thing I found out the hard way - not only does your fence need to be square to the blade but each side needs to be lined up with the other. Both sides of my fence were square to the blade but one side was slightly forward and as result....bad cuts 😕 Just put a straight edge to your fence to make sure.
Great tips. A DeWalt miter saw (not a slider) is one of the most used tools in our shop where I'm teaching inner city kids about carpentry and woodworking. Besides the warning about baggy sleeves, I'm constantly reminding the students to tuck in their hoodie strings, or take them off. Some of the students are wearing hoodies 12 months out of the year, the risk is significant.
Excellent tip!!👍🏼
Matt. This is exactly what I was waiting for. Show more of these. Does and don't. Safety is the key in woodworking. Simple mistakes and safety on all the machines. Thank you so much for these videos to teach and learn us❤
I made the miter station from your plans and added a hood to mine with a dust collector 3 inch port . Takes care of most of my dust then I vacuum out what doesn't get thrown into the collection hole. Great video as always Matt.
Great information. I like your style.
I was always told to push as you cut, as opposed to pulling. Just in case the saw leaps forward as it cuts in to the wood.
thanks for the video, i just bought a new mitre saw and the tips you put in here will help me out a lot.
Thanks man. I watched this all the way through because once in a while I like to be reminded about what I'm doing. I'm a long time high school woodshop teacher and ALL the safety tips you mention are what I teach my students. The only thing slightly different is that I tell my students to always roll up their sleeves, (if wearing long sleeves), when working on any power tool. Two other things that I'm adamant about is always using eye protection and those with hair length below their shoulders to always have it tied back. I have shop coats, aprons and hearing protection for students to use but I don't enforce them. They are available though. Thanks for posting.
I bought a Bosch miter saw and it came with a 60 tooth blade which has been pretty great for woodworking honestly, but I also bought an 80 tooth blade and will keep the CMT recommendation in mind when I need to replace the blades eventually.
I just picked up a DeWalt779 today, came with a miter stand, thanks for the tips! Was a good watch before I get to work on the coming days/weeks!
i’m a fair weather hobbyist. i only use my saws outside but still wear a mask . no saw dust inside my garage. after finishing i use my leaf blower to thoroughly blow all the saw dust off my miter saw or table saw . both saws are on job site rolling stands. powertec for the table saw and ridged for my miter saw. both store vertically.
Love the 45° fence hack!
I recommend making it able to attach to the fence. This way you can screw it in place whenever you need it rather than wasting a 2x6 every time you need to do it.
@@seankrake4776or having to remove the double-stick tape when finished.👍
What!!! The first tip is awesome. 😮thank you
Glad it helped!
some great tips here ( who hasn't been tempted to to do something that didn't feel right? ) Love The first one about the jig for large angles. 6:40 the zero clearance jig to cut small pieces - I had one shatter and turn into projectiles)
Im so glad you mentioned the not crossing your arms thing, ive been utilizing this method for years, and again do you leave the saw plugged in when leveling the blade or not? And when i change my blades, i put a wrench on the nut and turn on the saw, that blade comes flying off, just make sure you stand off to the side, cause that blade will mutilate whatever it hits, and always take the saw guard off too,
I have the DW779 that you said you really like, but added the shadow light from a DW780. There’s a TH-cam video about adding the light, including part numbers. The more recent DW779s appear to be made a bit cheaper than mine with more plastic parts.
A spectacular collection of tips, Matt. Some are common sense, while others I've never thought of. A thousand thank you's for this video, Matt!!!!! 😊😊😊😊😊❤❤❤❤❤
Great video! I actually really like these type of videos where you show what not to do, and then you show the correct way of doing it
Thank you!
Many handy tips. 👍
Instead of using double-sided tape, there are holes in the back fence. They are there so you can use screws to add blocks of wood to reduce tear-out or do excessive angles. The screws are re-usable and don't gum up the saw bed. Just make sure they're the right length so the blade won't hit them. 😁
And checking for square, rather than check the saw itself, I cut a piece of scrap wood and check that. Best wishes.
After 10 years without a miter saw, I purchase the Ridgid 10" Cruiser and put a Frued Ultra Finish blade on it. . Added a back zero clearance fence, and Fast Cap's zero cleanse tap . A little black hobby foam to enlarge the dust collection scoop, and a dedicated Small shop vac with an auto start switch and a cardboard box helps contain most of the dust. Even bought the DeWalt Crown stops so I can do crown molding Cruiser as the same 8mm hole on the side. It sits at the end of my M1000 extension to my MFT/3 table. Give me 12' to the left in my shop. I made custom temporary supports for supporting material on both side when needed.
BTW, you can easily make one of those million dollar hold downs with some scraps and rubber door bumpers.
I have a metabo hpt 12 inch with zero rear clearance. It has the sliders like your festool. I just got it but so far it’s great.
This is a great video. I'm a guitar builder and a new Miter saw owner (Dewalt). I was wondering how to safely cut a 15 degree scarf cut on guitar necks (20mm thick long boards). The only way I can think is to set the angle and clamp the material to a block, which is in turn clamped to the fence. This basically leaves the neck material sticking out towards me as the cut is made (I would stand to the side).
Thank you for solving a problem before I got a chance to get into it! I live in a mobile home with those dopey "open floorplan" designs, with 14 ft ceilings at the peak. Sound booms so anything above a soft tone of speech carries like everyone was mic'd. I will not express how much is costs to heat the ceiling of our house.
Then I saw your trick for making a jig for crazy shape angles! Hot Damn!! Now I can get into the corners and get a support beam to mate up with the original for a good, tight fit! I'd been dragging my feet getting started on anything, even the guest bathroom, which would be going through the same motions I would use for the living room/kitchen/dinette conversion.
If it doesn't kill me. All of my DIY projects end up having a strong I Love Lucy quality about them.
Thanks again, mate! Good stuff! You are consistent, you sweat details and you make the process of looking at a video so transparent that it gets lost in my mind sometimes that I am watching a TV rather than just hanging out. I bet your garage is popular with folks coming over picking your brain, like they were out for a walk and the idea just pops into their heads to stop and ask.😆🙄🥳🚀
Your "I love Lucy" comment cracked me up. I can totally relate! 😊
@@lisa4357 How I wish I could set up my camera to record and follow me around. I'd be editing out tons, but I can and do wail like Lucy. The crew here knows it and can tell then if a standard fire extinguisher of the one designed to put out the occasional electrical fire in my office.
As I like to proudly say, "I have never burnt a stick of furniture!" You're right. It has nothing to do with the problem. Boasting of a failure just throws people off.
Thank you Lisa, for your thoughtful compliment!🌺
AWESOME video.. I have made several of these mistakes.. very well made safety vid..
I always watch this type of video to reinforce the things I think I know.
Great advices. Cant stress enough of letting the blade stop before lifting it. Ran into couple of times cutting pvc pipes and the kickback was scary as materials were flying everywhere
Guilty of trying to cut too small a piece. I set it there and hoped for the best, which it wasn't. The piece went flying back and broke a piece of my brand new miter saw, nothing that affects function or safety. Thankfully, I was smart enough not to have my hand on it.
Oh, and I'm still running the factory blade. I had no idea tbh.
Thanks for the video. It was definitely a worthwhile watch for me.
I needed to watch this to learn. thank you! Improve dust collection cost and get better results: Ridgid Shop Vac + Hepa Filter w/bag + Cone type cyclone. The $20 ones from Amazon are good. Result: greater suction from vac + filters and bag will not fill up as quick + cleaner air if not fully venting outside. Far cheaper and will operate better than the Festool (bold words)
The exess angle tip was good, I'll be following that in future.
Hello...And thanks. I'm a beginner, and really enjoying your videos. Very informative ...Thanks Again
I'm glad you mentioned the crossing your arms thing. I tend to see this more with right handed people. Us left handers have learned to roll with the punches since it's mostly a right handed world so we can operate the saw with both hands.
This is a funny concept to me because as a a Right handed person. I've been into woodworking as a hobby since I was 5. I probably bought my first miter saw in my early 20s. I am now 38. Perhaps I never learned the bad habit because. I learned from a handful of trades people, including my uncles. And an assortment of HGTV personalities back in the early 90 when I was in middle school and highschool. Im not saying I never make mistakes because I have. But to cross my arms to operate a miter saw never crossed my mind. I think that's a commen since thing. And has nothing to do with being right handed or left handed. But Right minded in the task at hand.
@@JeffreyFeyh-rb4xk I didn't start out as early as you, I was 10, but now I'm 56 and in all that time I've never seen a left handed person cross their arms using a miter saw, only right handed. I believe the reason is, a lot of things in the world are built for righties so left handed people just shrug their shoulders and adapt to the situation. As a right hand person you wouldn't understand.
Great video Matt!
I do feel somewhat personally attacked by #3 because I do it constantly, but you are 100% right.
Also Shop Nation makes a bunch of dust collection upgrade brackets for most of the saws you've mentioned, including the older DeWalt saws. I haven't put it on my DW716 yet but I will be doing that soon.
If you’d like to add a shadow light to your 779, there’s a great video by Fisher’s Shop to do that. He has a link for the led light that fits the saw perfectly. The 45* angle was great! I’ll definitely be using that one. Thanks for the great videos!
I always use the hold downs when I'm cutting. A lot of good advice in this video.
Great tips. Didn't know that the piece must touch both sides of the thing. One tip I can give you, is you want to grab both the work piece AND the machine together. That is direct from the Manufactures video.
I finally upgraded my crappy hetabo miter saw to the 780 last fall. It doesn't seem like much but that shadow line is such a time saver. lining up cuts is super easy and accurate without even having to put any thought into it.
Great video! Two questions … 1) where can I get the aftermarket dust deflector you point to in the video and 2) are plans for the zero clearance jig?
Great video, Matt. Safety should never be taken for granted since most of the time you only get one chance to be safe! It too late for the coulda', woulda', shoulda' after you cut something precious off - be that some of the wood or a body part.
I bought the 12" non-sliding DeWalt Miter saw and added the shadow line. I already have one of those controversial radial arm saws so don't need the added cutting capacity the slide offers.
More of these Do's & Don'ts videos would be nice, especially if you make sure to explain the why's behind the no-no's.
The first trick put the double-sided tape in the 2 by 6 was actually pretty dope. Now you can actually get a saw that goes all the way up to 70°. I almost bought the rigid 12 inch compound miter for this one fact alone but opted for a different one instead. It goes up to 60° and you usually don't have to go past that too much
The dust collection on your saw looks really good Matt, was that little grey shroud at the back of the saw standard with the Festool, or was it a custom piece? God bless you and Amy 😊
Great video. What system are you using for your tool storage on the wall?
I’ve got a good tip to add for newbie’s. Don’t cut a bowed board with the hump up leaving a gap between the board and saw base. When the cut nears the bottom the board pinches the blade and can want to pull the board towards you and up to the saw. Especially when cutting hard woods. Some great tips in this video. I’ve tried to never become over confident when using all power tools. I love that T shirt, it’s so true. Always listen to your gut it’s truly one of your best safety features. One last tip if something goes wrong release the trigger.
I bought a kit I believe it was off a parts sight, it was possibly EBay, but I think it was some parts site I found on a YT video, but dirt cheap I ordered a shadow line kit for my 79, it’s basically the same as the 80 now, they give you the wire & switch kit & handle parts & light & it takes like 10 minutes to install, works great, been like 4-5 years now, I think I only paid $30 ish
This video serves as a reminder to all of us about the importance of making sure that we are always thinking about the best way to use the tools.
I make a shallow top cut pulling the saw towards me, then a full depth cut, with the bade fully down. This greatly reduces tearout, because the actual cut is into the surface, not coming out of the surface.
That is how I was taught.
Thanks for the big angle refresher. I was just contemplating a project with such a cut and was trying to remember where I’d seen that tip before.
I have a rigid radial arm mitre that goes to 70 degrees, the only thing I had to do was made a insert for blade, the original was almost a half inch wide gap that kept collecting drops. I have the luxury of a rather large man cave under my garage so it's on its own home made station and love this saw.
I bought the 780 a couple of months back, It came with a 60T fine finish blade, not a 32 Tooth as you claim. I find it so far to be pretty good. I did pick up a 100 tooth Diablo that will go on when I'm finding the 60T is not "Cutting It" Lol.
The Makita you showed comes with a 60 tooth Makita blade now. It cuts beautifully smooth 😊
Common sense would be that a miter saw is going to be used for cross cuts. Why would a manufacture ship a 40 tooth? Old 12" Ridgid came with a 80 tooth. New 12" came with a 60 tooth.
For #4, I would also add ensuring that the fences on either side of the blade are actually in line with eachother also
Good video 👍
I would add a couple important things here..
One is that the miter saws have mounting holes in the feet ..and when on a miter station should be bolted or screwed down
So it can't move or slide at all.
The same for a field set up .. the saw needs to be very secure, however you set it up, to not move or shift.
Second with your sawdust collection you should always use a vortex or cyclone type intermediate collector it will collect most all the large and medium to small parts settling into that bucket and the shop vac won't get clogged or need to be cleaned nearly as fast, and will keep it's peek suction much longer .
They are not very expensive and you could also diy one pretty easily.
😊
Honestly loved that first tip. Thanks!
I use my DeWalt like your saw, I think, to cut aluminum......100% of the time.....
it is a fantastic tool for that, the only thing I do is use a cutting wax by Tapmatic, Edgelube,
and a TCP profile 80 tooth blade......the surface I get will blow you away how smooth....
and yes, it is important to wait for the blade to stop before racing the saw....the dust is
no issue, but the chips coming off can be hot, so ear and eye protection is important....
wearing a ball cap with the brim in the proper direction is also very helpful.....
all your tips in this video are spot on.....thank you so much....Paul
I just ordered the Wen 10" sliding dual bevel, hope it arrives soon to replace my space hog of a 12" Kobalt so I can build my miter station.
I just love that large angle tip, Matt! 😊😊😊❤❤❤
I have made many dangerous cuts with my table saw. That 45 degree trick will come in "handy". Get it lol, I won't lose my hand 😂
whoa, that one where the fence wasn't moved out of the way ---- yikes, I'm glad you showed us that!
I was hoping you would describe the work hold down that I seen on one of the Dewalt, look like it was fasten to the saw table behind the fence.
Some projects it would be nice to secure the work piece to the saw table that is awkward to hold with your hand ?
Thank you for the video.
Picked up some great advice.
Already cut my fence on a compound cut….should have watched your video sooner 😆😆…I am now subscribed to your videos.
Yes I know read the directions… but I am a man what can I say.
I have the same saw you have here. I made my dedicated table to the saw. It is 12 feet to the left and 6 feet to the right. I have an adjustable stop block on either side but the fence I made 1/8 inch back of the saw fence. Wood does expand and contract and that will cause you to get out of square to the blade. When I make any cross cut with the saw, I will put my lumber against the saw fence and not the table fence guaranteeing me a square cut every time.
Good tip to let the saw blade get to full speed and let the blade cut it way through the wood while you gradually guide the saw into the cut and always let the blade come to a complete stop before raising the blade out of the cut. I learned those tips from you thanks
Great presentation sir. Thank you
Great vid! For a great saw that has the rails forward so you can put it against the wall, everyone should take a look at the Hitachi. I bought mine on sale for like less than 300 and it is fantastic!
Thanks for the tip!
I like the double sided tape trick. Thanks!
Looking at #1, cutting unsafe angles. And lots of people questioned back in high school why they had to know geometry because they would never need it...
Love these videos. QQ, any tips when you only have the miter saw and you are cutting longer pieces of wood like fence pickets? So basically, a lot of the picket is just floating off any surface. I hope this makes sense.
I would get a rolling stand or some type of support to keep it from falling.
@@731Woodworks Thanks for your response. I think I’ll give your miter station build a try once I reorganize my garage. Wish me luck bc I’m a rookie to wood working.(I will be buying your 6 plan bundle)
I have been guilty of trying to cut small pieces. I have experienced a shocking kickback and am lucky it didn't hit me and I didn'tcut my fingers. I have recently bought a Rockwell Bladerunner X2 (really a scroll saw mounted upside down on a table) and a mini 4" blade saw to deal with small pieces. I have also held small angle cuts. I've been lucky there as well. I will use your technique henceforth. Thanks so much. When it comes to dangerous tools like saws and grinders, you should not count on your luck. It will run out one day, and you'll be in a world of hurt.Thanks so much for your safety videos.
One more tip for some saws with larger blades and electric brakes. When you release the trigger, the saw can lurch downward slightly (conservation of angular momentum). My 14" milwaukee SCMS will lunge about 2" if you're not expecting it. It's not an issue for normal cuts where you let the blade stop in the fully down and forward position, but if you spin it up and then realize you need to make an adjustment, raise the blade fully and let it stop before doing anything else.
My dad did that "forget to adjust the fence" whoopsie on his DW.
Turned into a great excuse to finally replace the blade in it, at least.
I'll note that the shadowline for the cut is the best way I've seen for easy reference, since it perfectly shows the kerf thickness, even out in the sun.
Great safety tips safety glasses would be a great addition
Matt, Awesome video! Great safety tips!! BTW I just got the Metabo HPT 12” sliding miter saw. It’s a newer model. I could not find any reviews on this saw. I did a lot of research and this saw is very comparable to dewalts. Handle is like your Festtool. If you think you could do a review on this saw it would add to the competition. Straight out the box was true to blade and fence. I highly recommend this review as there are older reviews but the saw is newer model now.
I never thought about using it like that with a stop block I built your miter saw station and never had a stop block before. But even with a stop block I still clamp the piece down by the blade that’s the only reason I haven’t had kick back . Thank you for this . Could have saved anything bad from happening to me .
At least on the DeWalt, the instructions say to let the blade stop before lifting it after a cut. I thought it was because the blade guard might not retract fast enough, but kickback makes more sense. It doesn't hurt to reread instructions every year or two, after using the saw for a while, the reasons start to make more sense, but we can also get a sense of security with a dangerous, but useful tool.
Milwaukee miter saw with a Bosch folding stand, perfection.
????
Vital info that nobody talks about, thanks.
For #1, I highly recommend this versus just holding a board up on the saw. One thing I will suggest is that rather than double stick tape, you use the clamp that comes with every miter saw that is totally worthless for any other application; now, not only are you using a piece most people just consider at throw away, you can make one jig and use it over and over. Or, just buy the Rigid R4222, which cuts angles up to 70 degrees; that's what I did and I've been happy with it so far.
Loved the idea of the "angle board!" The website is great! Sorry it was raining the day you made video... My day today, was going to Minneapolis, and watching the Yankees win!
G double sided tape is a great tip Now I have to go and try that out tomorrow as it is a great tip and a safe tip
Excellent advice for beginners (and experienced). My only comment is that you mentioned to look for the most horsepower for dust collection. HP is not a rating to be trusted. Even manufacturers disclaimer that HP ratio my is not a true representation. In order to find the best “shop vac” or dust collection the other factors such as static pressure, water column test SQFM (cubic feet/minute) are the factors to compare between vacuums. Not a knock against you, only providing extra info for new woodworkers that want to enjoy the same passion we do.
The two-prong hold-down tool at 1:45 - is this shop-made or purchased? That looks like great geometry. If purchased can you provide a link? Thanks.
It's called the $10 million dollar tool (a joke that each finger is worth $1M and the tool can protect both hands)
Just a quick FYI, you mentioned the Delta Cruzer miter saw, that saw is no longer being manufactured. This is not because any design flaws or mechanical issues, it's because their parent company decided to rebrand it under the RIDGID (Home Depot) name, my guess is that they wanted to take the saw out of their competitor's stores (Lowe's) . The Delta Cruzer can still be bought on Amazon, and other sites as well, and I believe (please correct me if I'm wrong) the warranty for the Delta saw is being honored by Ridgid, and/or the store or website you bought your saw from. I bought mine on Amazon, along with an extended warranty, and Amazon will cover any issues via that warranty.
@731Woodworks A Company called CFS or Custom Fabricating Solutions actually makes Zero Clearance Plates for Dewalt Miter Saws, even Sliding models. For the longest time no one was making the Plates for the DW717 10" Slider model, but they do. Quick Shipping also. No issues with any level issues as it sits flush or about a 32nd under the miter plate. No issues cutting the line either as it does come blank to perfectly match your blade. Thin Kerfs as well. I would advise using a higher teeth blade that matches the blade you want to use first so that the initial cut goes smoothly. Just take your time.
as a newby its good to see all this
Hi, what aftermarket adapter do you use on your DeWalt miter for catching the dust?
Recently bought the Hercules 12" sliding compound bevel saw at Harbor Freight for $280 before the two-year protection plan.
Did you swap out the blade that came with your Kapex? I've found that Festool is probably the exception to that rule, since the blades they include with their tools are decent.
You're right. They include very good blades. But I did buy a higher tooth count blade for it that I am using on it.
14:17 20% off because because it is raining where you are. I'm in Maryland, it's June and we are having 93 degrees and a snow storm is rolling in. Will the discount double?
Definitely a fan of my Hercules miter saw. It's basically a blue clone of the DeWalt DSW780 with a smaller price tag and a longer warranty.
I had the Hercules saw and it was a beast. I have the 780 now and in my opinion it's much better than the Hercules. With that said, I'd still recommend that Hercules for anyone needing a miter saw.
I’m looking at a “low speed” saw, one similar to the DW872 blade speed wise, but also for wood (ad would prefer 10”. Any ideas?
Thanks for all the good tips
I got a Kobalt one on sale a few years back. It seems as good as the more popular brands.
Do you have any plans or directions on how to make a barn door?
Very good vidéo, thanks
Should you wear dust protection when you work with saws outside?
Good tips. Love that sharp angle jig.
Thanks for the useful tips, Matt. However, I noticed you only wore the dust mask when you were doing the segment about dust 😵💫 🤷🏻♂
🤣 good catch
@@731Woodworks 😁 I guess that's just the retired wood shop teacher in me...
I nicked my fence last week doing a 45° ... 😔... I was gutted, I'm soo careful with my tools and just forgot... lesson learned... its a 2 year old double bevel / double mitre Evolution saw which I have been super happy with since I bought it...extremely accurate right out of the box..
Regarding checking the squareness of the blade, I prefer to take a trial-cut and check the workpiece itself, after all, thats where we want to see the results... of course if its off, you'll be checking the blade itself, I have a 4'' machinist-grade solid steel square which I use for this (I'm a machinist by trade so small errors seem big to me anyways !🙄)
Regarding the zero-clearance insert, I also made 2 sacrificial rear fence pieces, slightly taller than the standard fence and slotted them so I can close up the gap between them and re-cut to compensate for wear...
Great vid and all very relevant tips... we're never to old to stop learning... and I wouldnt have it any other way...
Thanks !!
😎👍☘🍻